Lisa Niver's Blog: We Said Go Travel, page 464

Myanmar: Leaving Mandalay For Thailand (video)

WATCH: 43 Leaving Mandalay and Myanmar (Burma) For Thailand

http://www.wesaidgotravel.com/ We Said Go Travel Our scheduled 7am taxi came at 6:40am. We ate a quick breakfast and got in the shared taxi. The new toll road stole land from farms. There are no traffic lights or merge, and we went over train tracks—that could be messy. But with a fast road and no traffic, we were too early to check in, We had to sit for an hour and wait. The Air Asia flight is new out of Mandalay to Bangkok. I think they need some Air Asia signs and maybe a few shops in the empty terminal. Overall it went very smoothly.

Our 27 days and 45 movies of Myanmar have been very memorable. I wish we learned more words. The people of Myanmar are very friendly. For the most part, people wear longyi, carry a bag (because they have NO pockets!!), wear flip flops, as you are always taking your shoes off. I am so glad we came here together. Thanks for watching our movies! October 25, 2012

Air Asia just began using a different airport in Bangkok, Thailand, and we had a few issues. Five flights arrived at almost the same time so immigration took over an hour. Bus #59 was 20Baht and about one and a half hours to Koh San Road area. We are ready to eat Thai food!

This movie is from our 28 days in Myanmar (Burma) from September 28, 2012 to October 26, 2012 and our year TRIP in South East Asia, see all the videos from our trip.

Our Memoir, Traveling in Sin, is available on Amazon.

 

Traveling in Sin is a HOT NEW Release on Amazon! from Lisa Niver Rajna
Traveling in Sin is a true tale of TRANSFORMATION thought LOVE and TRAVEL! After meeting online (on two different sites), George and Lisa travel internationally, give up their jobs, condo, ice cream and toilet paper in search of adventure and love. Along the way, Lisa sheds over 60 pounds and the couple gets engaged underwater in Thailand. There are tears, twists and true love!
Recent Press: 

By Amy Sommer on Westside Today
By Dani Stone on Diets in Review

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Slovenia: Summer on the Westhill

I was traveling at 160 miles per hour heading from Vienna towards Slovenia. It felt like I had been going at that speed for weeks as I trekked through Europe, seeing a new city every couple days. Exhausted, I laid my head on the train window and started to rest my eyes. I slept for a while, and was later awoken by the relentless July sun. I opened my eyes, planning to draw the blinds to shield my tired eyes from the penetrating light. Instead, I was stunned by the scene unfolding outside of the train’s window.

My eyes widened as they took in the most intensely beautiful view of the train weaving through the pristine Austrian countryside. There were stunning, rocky peaks, soft rolling hills, and vast plains. The sky was strikingly blue, sparsely clouded, and starkly contrasted against the green terrain. For as far as I could see any way, there was only Earth, seemingly untouched by man with the exception of this one lone train track. I sat there with my jaw agape and my eyes locked on the horizon, captivated by the most sublime scene I have ever been fortunate enough to lay eyes on.

As I watched the seemingly boundless country side wind by me, the song “Summer on the Westhill” by The Kings of Convenience flooded my ears through my small white ear buds. The lulling lyrics, “Now I know there is a world beyond the small place I was coming from. I feel at home here in the middle of nowhere,” immediately brought a smile to my face. My thoughts floated to the small suburban town in South Carolina that I have lived all my life as I looked on my current surroundings with a dreamlike amazement. It was an intoxicating, transcendental moment. I was so content, and so grateful, to be where I was.

During this journey, I was became acutely aware of how truly beautiful this world can be. I have always loved architecture; hauntingly beautiful cathedrals with stained glass windows enthrall me, but it was during this train ride that I fell in love with the natural splendor of the Earth. There’s something beautiful about being anonymous inside of a big city, but traveling through the anonymous countryside brings an inexplicable sense of peace and has an incomparable beauty of its own.

After the 5 hour journey, the train reached its final destination in Slovenia. Feeling revitalized, however slightly dazed, I got my bags and made my way through the station. Of all the incredible things I got to experience in the weeks I spent abroad, that sublime train ride remains the most vivid in my memory. I will never forget the surreal view and the way that it made me feel: so small, yet a part of something so big. As I continue to explore this wonderful world we call home, I hope to find something as inspiring and as awe inducing as the sight of those remote Austrian hills through my train window.

About the Author: Abby Cothran is a 19 year old college student from South Carolina. She is in love with the world and with words and hopes to make combining the two her life’s work.

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Johnny Jet: Gratitude Travel Writing Contest

Thanks to Johnny Jet for sharing about our Gratitude Travel Writing Contest on his site!

WeSaidGoTravel.com’s Gratitude Travel Writing Contest opens September 11 and runs  through November 28, 2013. The theme for the Fall 2013 contest is “Gratitude: A Place That Inspires Awe.” No entry fee and $1,000 in cash prizes. Share your stories of awe and Inspire others to travel more! Judges: Richard Bangs, Tiffany Hawk, and the We Said Go Travel Team.

 

FALL 2013 GRATITUDE TRAVEL WRITING CONTEST
Free Entry $1,000usd in CASH PRIZES

Contest will run September 11 through November 28, 2013.

 

We are looking for an article about a place you are grateful for or a memorable holiday that you shared with a special loved one or a place that is awe inspiring. In Jonah Berger’s book, Contagious: Why Things Catch On he wrote about awe:

 

Awe is the sense of wonder and amazement that occurs when someone is inspired by great knowledge, beauty, sublimity, or might. It’s the experience of confronting something greater than yourself. Awe encompasses admiration and inspiration and can be evoked by everything from great works of art or music to religious transformations, from breathtaking natural landscapes to human feats of daring and discovery.

 

Sometimes the place that makes you feel gratitude is in your own backyard, share your special location.

 

THEME:  Gratitude: A Place that inspires Awe

 

PRIZES:

 

1st Prize - $500usd cash and Travel Writing Road Map ($497usd value)
2nd Prize - $350usd cash and Travel Writing Road Map Self Study
3rd Prize - $150usd cash and Travel Writing Road Map  Self Study

 

Winners will be selected by our judges, Richard Bangs, Tiffany Hawk and the We Said Go Travel Team.  Cash prizes will be paid through PayPal in United States Dollars.  All winning entries will be promoted on We Said Go Travel.

 

RULES: Publication is dependent on proper use of English language and grammar, appropriateness of theme topic, and being family friendly (G rated). If your post is written in a language other than English, please also send an English translation. Travelers of all ages and from all countries are encouraged to participate. Each individual may send up to 5 entries that are 500-800 words with 1 photo. Your article must be an original and previously unpublished piece. All posts, which meet the requirements, will appear on WeSaidGoTravel.com.

 

TO ENTER: Click here!

 

DEADLINE:  Enter by midnight PST on November 28, 2013  

 

JUDGING:  Richard Bangs, Tiffany Hawk and the We Said Go Travel Team

 

Richard Bangs, the father of modern adventure travel, is a pioneer in travel that makes a difference, travel with a purpose. He has spent 30 years as an explorer and communicator, and along the way led first descents of 35 rivers around the globe, he is currently producing and hosting the new PBS series, Richard Bangs: Adventure Without End

 

Tiffany Hawk, is a former flight attendant and the author of Love Me Anyway, a darkly funny novel about life at 35,000 feet. She has an MFA in creative writing from UC Riverside and her work can be seen in such places as The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, National Geographic Traveler, and NPR’s “All Things Considered.” Join Tiffany Hawk for the complete roadmap to exotic travel writing: Travel Writing Road Map.

 

 Other Contests, Courses and Books about Travel Writing

 

Our memoir, Traveling in Sin, is available on Amazon.com.

Traveling in Sin is a TOP TEN Hot New Release! from Lisa Niver Rajna

 

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Vieste, Italy: That’s Amore

When the moon hits you eye like a big pizza pie

That’s amore

When the world seems to shine like you’ve had too much wine

That’s amore

Bells will ring ting-a-ling-a-ling, ting-a-ling-a-ling

And you’ll sing “Vita bella”

Dean Martin – That’s amore

That song was the first thing to come to my mind the second my husband suggested to have a romantic night by the sea, one September evening in Italy. He had spotted a place with a nice view and asked me if I had any idea how to get there. Oh but I did!

Vieste Vecchio (Old Vieste or Old Town Vieste) is compact and lovely, but instead of going up the narrow streets, make a left towards the water and pass by the Museum and keep going to your left. You’ll see a string of cafes and restaurants with a view of the lighthouse.

We stopped at one of them, took a look at the reasonably priced menu and sit down to order. A pizza (shared) and two cappuccini. Meantime, it got darker outside and , to our lovely surprise, the waiter bough a candle to the table. And we ordered some wine.

With such a romantic setting, it turned out to be , probably, the best romantic night we have had so far. And if you are interested in the cost, it was under 20 euros including tips!

We have always loved an authentic atmosphere which resonates with the place we visit. It certainly made sense to enjoy a romantic night out, sampling the local wine and pizza.

About Vieste

Vieste is located on the Garganic Coast, facing the Adriatic Sea. It is the largest resort in the area (Peschici, close by, is another gem worth exploring) and a place where English is not spoken. Yet, it didn’t bother me. We both speak enough Italian to get by so we got a chance to learn more Italian. Plus, that’s the best way to get to know a place, by talking the language and shopping where locals shop.

The small town is all but deserted during winter – yet it can offer a lovely experience, too – and springs back to life during the summer season.

How to get to:

During summer, a host of airlines (including low cost ones) fly to Bari. From there you can get on an express bus directly to Vieste in less than 3 hours. During winter, you’d need to take the train or bus to Foggia and then connect to another bus to get to Vieste.

Costs

Accommodation can be pricy but expect to find doubles for 60 euros a night.

You can easily find places to eat for less than 20 euros / 2 adults including drinks. Pizzas are big enough to be shared between two adults.

The market is also an excellent place to dig for local products. Different types of olives and cheeses will make you drool.

All photos by Traveling Cricket and may not be used without permission.

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Costa Rica: Falling in Love while Traveling

Sometimes I wish I would have taken my Spanish teacher’s advise when she told my classmates and I to be aware of falling in love when traveling abroad. At first, I was a bit surprised when she gave us that advise. She went from explaining the most important rules and regulations about living in another country, while using different face expressions and gestures to get her point across, to then talking about love. She calmed down, and slowly told the classroom to stay focus, and avoid falling in love. My Spanish professor had taken a group of college students abroad to different countries annually, and every year there was always someone who fell in love with a native from that country. Although each story she told us of the students who fell in love were like fairytales, I couldn’t help but wonder why she had warn us about falling in love. Her last phrase was, “You guys are going to be there only for three months, so why develop something that will not last.”

My favorite story was about a young lady who fell in love with a Tico, Costa Rican male…

The young lady was eager to travel abroad because it was her first time leaving her country, and she could now do something for herself. She was always helping and taking care of others, but now she wanted to focus on herself. Her main priority was to enhance her Spanish skills, and she thought she would become fluent in the Spanish language because of this trip. Falling in love, was a subject she did not bother worrying about because she had experienced so many heartbreaks at a young age. Although she thought she was extremely prepared for this life changing experience, she was not aware of the surprises that were in store for her.  This young lady’s experience abroad was not a walk in the park, and she spent days crying and yearning to return to the United States. Also, she had problems improving her Spanish speaking, adjusting to the culture, and no one in her host family spoke English.  She was on the verge on giving up, but her classmates who had accompanied her on the trip, advised her to go out to a local bar with them to relax.

 

While dancing and finally having fun for once, she locked eyes with a Tico, who had been staring at her for quite some time. He finally approached her and because of the loud music and noise in the background it was hard for them to have a conversation. He pointed to the bar and asked if she wanted a drink. Though she could still barely hear him, she pointed to what he was drinking. After dancing, and trying to develop a conversation he handed her his cellphone and she stored her number in. She went home with her friends, and for the first time she was happy.

Then Tico called her host families’ home the next day, and to her surprise he only spoke Spanish, and he could not understand what she was saying.  For a few days they had friends translate what they wanted to say to each other, then all of a sudden they did not need any translation because they somehow learn to understand each other. The young lady’s Spanish had improved,  she developed new friendships with some of the locals, and she began to travel and learn more about the country. Although it was difficult for her now boyfriend to learn English, they spoke only in Spanish, which benefited them both. Unfortunately, after three long months it was time to say goodbye, and these two loved birds had to choose between developing a long distance relationship, or having a hole in their hearts because they knew they could never find anyone else to fill that area in their hearts.

 

I remember my teacher getting a little teary-eyed after telling this story, but she told us that the two still keep in contact with each other, but she was not sure of their relationship status. However, the young lovers from the other stories that she told us were now married with kids, or the once Study Abroad student now lives in the country that he or she once traveled to be with their lover.

The Tico story is my favorite because it gives hope to any relationship, and it allows young individuals to discover their lives before they start to create a new life with someone else. The young lady in the story went to a country trying to change and better herself, and that it exactly what she did, but with a little help. I think my teacher gave us the advise of not falling in love because she wanted to make sure that while we had the chance to learn about another country and its culture, in order for us to be able to find our paths in life. Some could argue that sometimes love helps us to find our path in life.

My advice for any one who decides to travel, is that love conquers all. If you do not fall in love with an individual when traveling, then you will fall in love with a particular place, or food, or even the scenery and smell of the country. It is going to stay with you forever, and only you have the power to let it stay in a particular place in your heart, you could continue to visit that area, or try to create those cherish moments in every where you travel.

 

 

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Guam: Swimming with Sharks and in Storms

Hafa Adai Guam, Aloha Hawaii from our October 1st News:

We have started hopping home towards California after fifteen months of travel (see map), first to Palau where we swam with jellyfish and sharks and they use US dollars and then to Guam, which is a US territory with wide sidewalks and supermarkets with an almost ridiculous amount of choices! We had our first Couchsurfing experience with Jenny who is a military nurse in Guam with a three-bedroom condo, two dogs and a view of the sea. It was nearly mind-boggling to use the dishwasher, washing machine, Tupperware, walk the dogs and make dinner. One day while we were there was the most rain ever in history on a day in September and there was flooding all over the island. After so many months in hotels and hostels, it was wonderful to be in her home and meet her friends at a party on our first night. She took us in her car to a Chamorro Village where we learned about local practices of weaving, salt drying and coconut creations.

Enjoy the best beach in Guam and the fantastic dinner BBQ at the Outrigger Guam Resort. We can highly recommend this gorgeous hotel and thank the marketing team for inviting us to visit. They connected us with their next-door neighbor, UnderWater World Guam and we enjoyed dining at Sea Grill and wandering around with 37 sharks in the SeaTrek experience. This is a great way to see rays, turtles, sharks and guitarfish up-close and from inside the tank! (see photo below)

JOIN US : Oct 3rd in Oahu, Oct 16th in Los Angeles and Oct 23rd for our online webinar with the University of Pennsylvania about Exotic Burma. We hope to see you or your friends at one of ourupcoming events!

We appreciate all of you who read our newsletters, articles, website and BOOK! Thank you to everyone for your support of our journey and all our writing. Connect with us on Facebook, Google+, LinkedIn, Pinterest,  SlideShare,  Twitter , and YouTube.

Happy and Safe Travels from Kauai, Hawaii! Mahalo and Aloha!

Lisa and George (Click here to sign up for this newsletter. )

More articles to enjoy : Enjoy George’s article about music on the road with Spotify, his article about flying vs. overland travel, and our Myanmar movie about a Hindu festival in Mandalay!

Our memoir, Traveling in Sin, is available on Amazon.com.

Traveling in Sin is a TOP TEN Hot New Release! from Lisa Niver Rajna

 

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Afghanistan: Times of Lull in the “War On Terror”

When you hear the words “War on Terror”, “Operation Enduring Freedom” and “Op Herrick”, what do you think about?  Typically people tend to hear these words and immediately think about all of the negative things that could be going on with their friends, family and loved ones.  Are they in a dangerous situation? What are the base and living conditions like?  After being over in Afghanistan for the better part of five years, I have had the opportunity to visit a few of the main bases in the country and can tell you, though your family members are far from home and missing home, should they travel through these main hubs it’s not hard to find something that is familiar and welcome by all.

If one finds themselves lucky enough to be stationed at one of Afghanistan’s main NATO bases, they will quickly realize that there are opportunities for rest and relaxation.  In Helmand Province, Afghanistan one can find Camp Leatherneck and Camp Bastion.  The two bases are connected and are more like mini cities than military bases.  It is not unheard of for people to get too complacent and forget all about the war if they are at one of these “safer” locations.  If you were to wake up tomorrow in either of these particular places, you could pretty much have your heart’s desires with regards to culinary choices.  If for instance, you found yourself tired of the typical “chow hall” food and needed something fast, you could swing by this family friendly joint.

 

Not in the mood for Pizza Hut pizza?  That is completely fine; at Camp Bastion you can have your choice from any of the three pizzerias that are available.  “The Blue” pizzeria and Ciano’s Italian restaurant both offer thin crust pizzas made the way you like them.  Ciano’s also has a wide variety of other delicious choices from Nutella filled crêpes and pasta to lamb chops and whole rotisserie chickens by reservation.  None of these choices are striking your fancy?  We’ll move on then.  Perhaps you recognize this other familiar eatery.

While back home in the states, it is almost an embarrassing feeling to stand in line at a fast food restaurant; over here it is a regular occurrence for many.  If you still are a little uneasy about eating fast food or are just trying to watch that figure, there are still other options available to you.  Bastion is also home to various coffee shops, at least five exchanges, a fish and chips stand, an all you can eat “contractor” style buffet and “The Blue” steakhouse and bakery.

While my current location is Camp Leatherneck/Bastion, I have also had the opportunity to spend a year at Kandahar Airfield.  Kandahar is famous for its “Boardwalk”, a restful, city block sized area complete with a T.G.I. Friday’s, Kebab House Grill, Nathan’s hot dogs, a Green Bean coffee shop and a full sized hockey rink.  When your troops and soldiers are not hard at work, chances are they can be found at the gym or the boardwalk finding enjoyment in their off time.

All of these options truly are a great morale booster for the troops and civilian contractors alike.  Those individuals out at outlying FOBS (Forward Operating Bases) have coined special terms to refer to these places, “Camp Cupcake.”  While many view the amenities as a great way to unwind when you are transitioning in or out of theatre, there are those that argue that places like this should be banned.  I will leave you with your own opinions on the matter.  I have spoken with the troops who are deploying or re-deploying through these hubs however, and the majority of them view this as a little piece of heaven in a country that has been blown to hell.  Much appreciation surrounds the “safer” areas of Afghanistan because for a moment, even a brief second, they are able to take your mind off of the stresses associated with a long period from friends and family.  For the men and women of the armed forces and those that support them, places like this are indeed a shining light in the distance.

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Vilnius, Lithuania: White Nights

We had only this: a course pack, a name, and a story. We scattered ourselves across the steps of the neo-classical Vilnius Cathedral, forty men and women in backpacks and light jackets from varying pockets of the world. Montreal. New York. Saudia Arabia. Japan. We stole surreptitious glances at one another, trying to pair names with faces, faces with nationality. Was the woman with the red hair Bridget of the cowboy story? Was the tall man with the thick black hair Pablo of the Spanish one? As we gazed across the wide cobblestone expanse of Cathedral square to distant castle tips and belfries, rollicking hills and medieval architecture, one thought pulsed repeatedly through our minds. Where were we?

We had come to Vilnius for the same reason. The two-week Summer Literary Seminars was a program designed to bring writers from disparate cultures and societies together. To immerse them in a culture so foreign, an environment so far from the grind of everyday life they began to dislocate, enabling a unique literary space for creative minds to flourish.

Our paths to Vilnius were varied. One woman had flown from South Dakota to Warsaw. Another woman had departed Pennsylvania to Prague, where she joined up with a group of lively backpackers. While the majority of us hailed from the US and Canada, it seemed we had all maximized our trips to the Baltic, crossing through places like Latvia and Belarus before settling in the Baltic’s southernmost country.

We wondered: what would we find in Vilnius?

I had pictured a small European town straddling the border between East and West European culture. I pictured a few key restaurants, an abundance of churches, deep leafy parks. A bar, maybe two. I saw long nights spent writing under the cover of lingering Soviet-era darkness, holed up in the steel-walled studio apartment I would rent. Certainly, I thought, Vilnius would be a good place to unwind, to buckle down and write. I contacted a friend who had taught in Poland a number of years. She had been to Vilnius several times. You must go, she wrote immediately. Vilnius in the summertime is breathtaking. You will never forget it.

It was July fourteenth when I rolled my suitcase to Vilnius Street Apartments, a neat two story building tucked away in the heart of Old Town Vilnius. Volkswagens, old BMWs and Audi station wagons zig-zagged the lot. Graffiti covered the alley archway and the apartment walls. I hesitated: back home in Detroit graffiti was married to danger, to violence, to abandonment and decay. But in Vilnius, I soon learned, graffiti was a form of art, the messages uniquely beautiful. Though it was well after ten pm the sky spread a glorious pink over a landscape so still and pure I wondered whether it was real.

Eager to learn the ropes of the town I set off to explore. I worried briefly – it was late Sunday night, would I be the only one on the street? I had no cell phone and no recourse were I to be accosted by a Lithuanian, Russian or other-language-speaking criminal.

Anything I thought I knew about Vilnius soon turned on its head. Vilnius was a place of heady energy. No further than one block in either direction of my apartment found me in the midst of an eclectic, vibrant East European city evocative of Italy or Spain. Young people spilled out of bars along Vilniaus g., smoking or simply enjoying the temperate summer evening. An ubiquitous techno beat wafted from open doors and windows, encapsulating passerbys with an energizing vibe. Cars sped down narrow cobblestone streets, inches from old town sidewalks, thin ribbons of concrete bordering three-story buildings of Medieval, Baroque and Soviet influences.  Several streets were closed off entirely, transformed into lazy sprawling terraces.  Restaurant after bar after restaurant saw thin, leggy, well-tailored women and men enjoying wine and good conversation under the wide open sky of the best three weeks, weather-wise, of the year.

  

 

Each day in Vilnius revealed another layer I was eager to explore. There was never a shortage of things to do, from the art museums to the cathedral tours to the famous castle of Trakai. It began to feel surreal; the lovers strolling through the parks, the winding roads and ancient stone architecture, the choirs I sometimes heard from second story windows, like angels waiting in the wings. The food was delicious and as varied as you desired. I dined at traditional Lithuanian establishments as well as Italian, Indian, Mexican, Chinese, and Vegetarian. Each spot was utterly unique, from dim swanky ambiance to casual coziness to spaces as far-reaching as low stonewalled grottos. The food was more than affordable, the abundance of cheese and cheap wine heavenly.

 

In lands of northern light, they use words like nautical twilight and civil twilight, as if to delineate light from less light, as if to replace the absence of that dark midnight cover of the rest of the world with something as equally comforting. In Vilnius, I couldn’t trust the sun to tell me the time, much less anything else, high noon falling after one o’clock, the sun clinging to the edge of the earth until after eleven. The dark of night I was to write under didn’t exist. I didn’t sleep much during my two week stay, and I didn’t want to. The city awaited me – the old and the new, the east and the west – in all its mysterious wonder.

 

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In Bhutan, Skateboarding is a Crime

In Bhutan, Skateboarding is a Crime

Driving the other day we see 2 boys on a homemade skateboard, I remark to Dorji this is the first such one I’ve seen. Oh yes, he says, the government banned them a few years back, as hazardous, citing accidents involving skateboarders and cars.Also banned: tobacco and plastic bags. In 2004 Bhutan became the first, and is still the planet’s only non-smoking country. Again citing health hazards, and 4-century-old statements from the Shabdrung (the unifier of the country) warning of the perils of tobacco. One cannot grow, sell, buy or smoke tobacco. This ban is not popular, and much flouted, though most smoking takes place at home and in nightclubs popular with the young. The penalty is 3-years imprisonment, though enforcement now seems to be lax, yet a cop recently told me there are some 200 plus people in jail for smoking. Foreigners are permitted to import one carton, and taxed about fifty dollars for this.The plastic bag ban is more successful. Citing environmental hazard, the country simply banned them. Most Bhutanese already took a cloth bag for shopping. Shopkeepers wrap items in newspapers, or make bags by taping torn newspapers together, or most interestingly, they fold newspapers into origami type bags or boxes so pretty you don’t want to toss them out.

Trongsa Dzong

Friendly kids, Trongsa, BHUTAN

Add not permitted: missionaries. The constitution provides for freedom of religion in this highly devout mostly Buddhist nation. There is a minority of Bhutanese descended from Nepali immigrants a century ago, and they are for the most part Hindu. They worship at home altars, as there are no Hindu temples, though Hinduism and Buddhism are so intertwined that most of my ethnic Nepali friends tell me they visit the temples and monasteries as well. It’s the Christians that are causing trouble. I’ve met a number of these people, as friendly as all Bhutanese, but quick to point out they are Christian, and ask if I am also Christian. While the answer is yes, I am not of the born again ilk they appear to belong to. The Bhutanese Christians have their churches in private homes, and apparently they have sent word out to their parent church abroad they are being persecuted in Bhutan (because they cannot build an actual church, and stateside missionaries are not permitted entry into Bhutan). I’m all for Christianity, practiced humbly and as it was intended. I have little sympathy for born agains trying to ply their murky trade in the only Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom still in existence.

Father and son, Trongsa, BHUTAN

We’re now in Trongsa, one of the prettiest areas in a country that does not lack for pretty places. Our hotel is about a mile from town, an easy and pleasant walk. Each time I make this walk I am stopped multiple times to talk. Those that don’t stop to chat greet me, elder people speaking Dzongkha, say “kuzuzampola“, little kids yell out “good bye” (their way of greeting, as you are after all leaving them as you pass by), and high schoolers and young folks say, “hey man, how’s it going?” In town I find the shops sell wine, imported from India. Bhutanese have easy access to alcohol (unlike tobacco). Two varieties of great local beer always available, Red Panda and Druk 1100 (‘super strong beer’ reads the label). And the army makes the booze: four varieties of whiskey, gin, rum, and vodka. Make booze, not war, could easily be their motto.  Home brewed is a rice wine, called ara, not unlike sake. But wine is a rarity, and I’m in a cabernet mood.

As I wander the streets of Trongsa, with my 2 bottles of wine, making new friends I come across a truck with bars for windows. About 12 young men are inside and they call me over to talk. It’s what I come to expect from Bhutan. Now maybe the altitude has slowed my thought process, so I ask why the bars. “Because we are prisoners being transported to jail” comes the answer. I’ve just spent 5 minutes talking with these very friendly criminals, thinking the bars might merely be some window substitute. Then they ask for my e-mail. They motion to a cop standing a few feet away. I ask him if these guys are prisoners, and he nods. What did they do? I half expect the answer to be “skateboarding and smoking.” But no, murder, larceny, and robbery. At that moment I decide I am not going to have any prisoner pen pals, so say “no thanks” and walk away.

That night, Dorji and I polish off an unexpectedly good bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Who knew? Vineyards in India.

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Ireland: More than meets the Eye

Ireland: More than meets the Eye

The gravestones appeared to have the best view on the island. Comfortably nestled in the long, wild grass, they overlooked the ever-changing sea. It seemed a grand spot to while away eternity, at least from the perspective of a landlocked girl from Illinois. I gave in to a soulful sigh, resisting the urge to sink down and plant myself next to the nearest Celtic cross. No doubt I was still feeling the effects of the boat ride over.

“Only 30 minutes by ferry from Doolin,” were my husband’s encouraging words when he presented his plan for a quick detour away from the Irish mainland. Although I was prone to motion sickness, the carefree adventurer in me longed to visit Inisheer (Inis Oírr), the smallest of the Aran Islands. So I let him choose a B&B for the overnight and said nothing to dash his hopes. My evil twin, the stark realist, knew better and whispered that the journey was probably 25 minutes too long.

I decided it was simply going to be a battle of mind over matter. When we arrived at the dock early, I thought that dwelling on the sound of the water slapping against the small white hull of the Queen of Aran would be counterproductive. So I left my family to snap some photos while I dashed over to the shops. I was looking for something that would bolster my spirits; and in the second shop I entered, a long black sweater in a soft Merino wool began calling my name.

I folded my old jacket to put in the bag the shopkeeper had given me and donned my new sweater, hoping that it would strengthen my resolve to keep my lunch in my stomach where it belonged. Once we were below deck and on our way, I found out I was as grateful for the comfort of the sweater as I was for the plastic bag it came in.

Despite the reviving pot of tea provided at the B&B upon our arrival, I still wasn’t feeling quite myself as we headed out for a walk. However, I was beginning to think that maybe my strange mood had more to do with the island itself. It was the first week of September and the landscape was desolate, but not in a bleak way. It was windswept, dramatic and somewhat mysterious.

Our tiny guidebook, printed in both English and Irish (the spoken language on all three islands), listed a population of around 250 on this less-than-three-square-kilometer island. Remembering an internet search that documented more than 5,000 years of habitation, I realized why I felt so disconcerted. I was trying to reconcile the incongruity of this small island culture alongside the history of thousands of years of civilization. Intimacy and enormity all in one fell swoop!

My map indicated that my sons were exploring the ruins of a 10th century church. Close by was another graveyard—a burial mound that dated back to the Bronze Age (1500 B.C.). Further sightseeing turned up a lighthouse from the 1800s, the rusting wreck of a freighter from 1960 and a contemporary arts centre, converted from a weaving factory in 2000.

This historical hodgepodge was as dizzying as following the maze of stone walls that dominate this land barren of trees. Thousands of years ago the area was blanketed with forests that disappeared to become fuel and building material. The islanders discovered too late that the tree roots also had the important job of holding the soil in place.

Wind and rain began to sweep the land back down to rock and sand. Careless but resourceful, the inhabitants started the slow process of creating new soil from a mix of beach sand, seaweed, fish meal and manure. They used the more fertile patches to grow crops, and the less fertile grasslands were reserved for grazing. In order to plant, the land needed to be cleared of stones. Building dry stone walls (made without mortar) also protected the thin layer of soil from the harsh weather.

Solutions… That got me thinking about my little problem. As I boarded the boat for the return journey, I approached the captain to explain my predicament. He smiled good-naturedly and told me that below deck was the last place I wanted to be. Also, I was not to look down at the water. I needed to sit topside, focus on the horizon and enjoy breathing in the fresh air. Armed with sunglasses to combat the glare, a long scarf to ward off the chill and a breathtaking view of the Cliffs of Moher on the horizon, success was finally mine!

About the Author: Andrea Isiminger has spent the 21st century living in Madrid, Spain with her husband and two boys. Originally from Chicago, a sweeping view of that famous skyline across the television screen can still make her heart skip a beat.

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