Leandra Medine's Blog, page 84

Emotional Nudes: More Intimate Than *Actual* Nudes?

A few months ago—in a rush of feelings fed by drinks, exhaustion, and a good party—I sent my best friend a text. Well, several texts. Each one flowed together to form an emotional outpouring that was at once totally genuine and completely terrifying. At around 4 a.m. on a Sunday morning, somewhere between the smoke machine and the bar, I sent an emotional nude.

In 2019, the art of sending traditional nudes is quantifiable, understood, and when done well, celebrated. As long as it’s solicited or consented to, sending someone a picture of your unclothed body is a breezy celebration of horniness.

These are not things you’d typically say in person, in the harsh and sober light of day.

Emotional nudes are trickier. They are the truly exposing mode of 21st century communication that takes the form of rambling texts or DMs to friends. They can cover a lot of ground: atoning for a long-forgotten sin, revealing your deepest fears, sharing a self-realization that couldn’t wait for therapy, or just telling someone how much you love them. How you’d die without them. How their existence makes the world feel meaningful and pure and maybe God doesn’t exist but, like, friendship is the real religion, you know?

These are not things you’d typically say in person, in the harsh and sober light of day. Because that would involve actually making eye contact with the person, hearing your own dumb voice, watching their face move from bemused to uncomfortable to… actually, I’m not sure. Who gets that far in person? In person you start saying something meaningful, get awkward, and backtrack to, “Anyway, this is nice.”

An emotional nude bypasses all those social roadblocks. In a message, buffered from embarrassment and composed alone in the chasm of your own brain, there is nothing to stop you from sharing every acute, half-baked thought you’ve ever had. You’re free to keep typing until your hand cramps, you pass out, or someone calls your mum to see if you’re okay.

This is an occupational hazard of vulnerability in general.

In that moment of indulgence, emotional nudes feel deeply gratifying. They’re the digital equivalent of pouring your heart out to someone over one-too-many cheap glasses of prosecco. Except the other person isn’t there with you, going drink-for-drink, whim-for-whim, declaration-for-declaration. In fact, they’re probably at home, doing something distinctly unemotional, like laundry or unclogging their shower drain. Which is to say: The follow-up emotion to sending emotional nudes is sheepishness.

They’re rarely reciprocated in the way you want. When you send a soliloquy via text, you’ve worked yourself into a state that the recipient can’t possibly predict nor match. It can feel lonely and a little terrifying when your emotions begin to cool—when it’s just you and the comparatively brisk reply that came an agonizing 20 to 90 minutes later (or far worse, the next day). But this is an occupational hazard of vulnerability in general. One, I think, worth embracing. Because even if they feel a little one-sided, I’d argue they can fortify and nourish relationships. They not only invite a unique level of honesty, they confirm, through the means of an increasingly impersonal form of technology, that our loved ones are on our minds. And doesn’t everyone gently hope that others think about them when they’re not around? That a friend, in the height of a breakthrough, might turn to them first?

In that way, an emotional nude, sent and received, can be a powerful gift. A digital talisman for the messiness of human emotion. Proof we can’t be captured in ones and zeros. Some things are worth the hangover.

Graphic by Madeline Montoya.

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9 Really Specific Things That Make Me Feel Grown Up

Not to sound like a deflated meme, but adulthood is exhausting. Now that I’m here on earth as a fully formed adult who pays her taxes, subscribes to a newspaper, and buys baby onesies for her friends, I’ve got to say, it’s pretty boring. The idea that I find life to be a bit tedious and that happiness tends to look a lot more like contentment rather than non-stop joy is not a new personal discovery for me. But still, it can vaguely disappoint.

I could throw caution to the wind and hop on the hedonistic hamster-wheel of chasing perpetual youth, but honestly that sounds exhausting, and kind of expensive. So in the interest of gratitude and thoughtful living and what have you, I am trying not to take adulthood for granted. Today, I have done so in list form. Presenting: a handful of things that make me feel, blissfully, like a full-on adult. Little moments where life turned out exactly as I once thought it would, however small those moments are.

Balancing groceries on my hip as I get my mail out of the mailbox.

This is one of my favorite feel-good moments because it’s built around two things that aren’t particularly pleasant: bills and the constant work of feeding myself. But there’s something about the physical representation of this balancing act that is life just feels so satisfying. I managed to get through my day, go to the grocery store, and now I’m getting my very IMPORTANT and CLASSIFIED mail and presumably going upstairs to cook some soup. There’s not enough time in the day to do everything I feel like I need to do, so when I make it home at 7 p.m. having done 75% of it, and check off not one but two errands, it feels like more than a little victory.

Eating Chinese food straight from the container

I blame Ally McBeal (or any movie with a scene featuring a woman going through a breakup), because eating lo mein out of a paper container still feels like the height of working woman sophistication to me. The grace of giving myself a night to not even get a plate feels like an indulgence. There’s no moral value one way or another on what I’m eating, but something about the image of a woman alone on her couch, watching crap TV, eating takeout from the delivery vessel feels like a deep exhalation.

Standing in the aisle of a drug store comparing two household cleaners

Nothing says I have my shit together quite like taking to time to form opinions on toilet bowl cleaner.

RSVPing ‘No’ to weddings

At this point, I know who I want to show up for, know who will understand that I can’t afford to fly to Hawaii, and know who is just in it for the chip and dip, anyway. Say no, send a gift, feel instantly rich in time and money.

Unceremoniously leaving the gym when I’ve had enough

Some days I go to boot camp and challenge myself to squat deeper than I did the week before. Sometimes I go to yoga and set an intention that is good for my mind and body. Sometimes I just roll into my $10-a-month gym with its ever-present bucket that collects ceiling leaks, half-ass the elliptical for 30 minutes, hop off, and go home. I used to stay for longer doing little bits of things that weren’t really doing anything for me, just so the checkout person at the front didn’t see me leave “early.” Now I peace as soon as whatever closed-captioned episode of Young Sheldon my eyes have been cursed to lay upon has finally ended its reign of terror.

Setting up monthly donations

Giving away a certain amount of money each month makes me pay attention to my budget and put perspective on the financial situation I’m in. The world is shitty right now and instead of freaking out about how little I can do and then doing nothing, I do a small thing once a month that takes up no time and frees me up to figure out how to donate my time and energy elsewhere.

Making soup from scratch

Oh my god, it’s super easy and uses up all the produce in your fridge. I live off of this stuff.

Just waving to someone I know on the train platform in the morning—instead of saying hi and then freaking out about how long we have to ride the train together, even though I enjoy their company, but kind of wanted to read my book and take time to myself before a day full of people asking me for things. Maybe I’ll lie and get off two stops early, or take the Q instead of the B and just walk an extra 15 minutes??

Realizing both of us want to be left alone and giving a brisk head nod as I walk to the other end of the platform is maturity personified.

Being horny for Professor Bhaer instead of Laurie

I firmly believe that one can be horny for fictional characters until the day one dies, but the evolution of the objects of lust is the true tale of maturity. Laurie is for girls, Professor Bhaer is for women.

I want to know your weird adulthood signifiers! Get in them comments, please! 

Feature illustration by Molley May.

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HBO Made Limited-Edition Totes and We’re Giving Them Away

In partnership with HBO. 

More often than I like to admit, I will launch into a story about something that happened to a friend of mine, only to realize halfway through, oops, that something didn’t happen to my real-life human friend, it happened to Issa on Insecure. There’s something so comforting about settling into a multiple-seasons-long (fingers crossed) relationship with a TV character. Yes, it’s fun to self-identify (Miranda sun, Kelli moon, Sue rising) as a personality shorthand, but getting to spend time with a character, watching them grow, shift relationships and haircuts, is a journey you take together. It can feel a little voyeuristic, a little one-sided, but in my experience, you grow as they grow, too.

This year to celebrate Women’s Equality Day, HBO paired up with artist Jeanne Detallante to create four limited-edition prints showcasing a few of HBO’s daring, hilarious and ambitious female characters and the issues they deal with in their storylines, and bring to the forefront of our cultural conversation their Because of Her campaign. We had a little soiree to mark the occasion with HBO in Brooklyn last week, and now we’re bringing the fun to the dot com.

The prints (and these exclusive tote bags featuring said prints) aren’t available for purchase but they ARE available to win! Enter below for your chance to win one of the totes, prints, and a few other goodies (*cough cough* Repeller swag) along the way. Let’s get to know our art pieces and the characters that inspired them a little bit better, shall we….

Kicking things off with a bang, Issa from Insecure is fighting against the stereotypes that black women face on the daily. Evoking her regular hype-up sessions with her reflection, the art points out all of the assumptions and stereotypes that are put on black women. Insecure tackles the black millennial experience from multiple angles, celebrating the characters’ wins, loses, missteps and, as Kelli so iconically put it, growth.

Speaking of Insecure, Issa’s best friend Molly gets her own piece (and if you watch the show, you know Molly would want it that way) addressing the struggles of women in the workplace. On average women earn less than men in almost every field, with the gap widening by race, but for many of us in professional organizations, there’s so much more than that. In the most recent season of Insecure, Molly’s professional arc consists of leaving a predominantly white and male firm for a predominantly black firm, only to find that she is still navigating frustrating gender politics. She along with so many of HBO’s ambitious female characters — like Miranda from Sex and the City, Amy from VEEP and Sansa from Game of Thrones — shines a light on the myriad ways working (or ruling) as a woman is fraught beyond the pay gap.

In her piece, Hannah from GIRLS faces her critics head-on as she talks about her struggles of her “non-conventional body-type.” While Hannah certainly wasn’t for everyone (who is, really) her open and often funny discussions around her body were brutally honest and often refreshing. Fast-forward seven years from GIRLS’ premiere episode and we have Euphoria‘s Kat drolly exclaiming that “I’ve been afraid my whole life that people were going to find out I was fat. But honestly, who gives a shit? There’s nothing more powerful than a fat girl who doesn’t give a fuck.” Seeing fun, sexy and comfortable characters of different body types talk about their bodies and people’s reactions to them is an important form of representation, but the fact that their bodies aren’t what defines these characters is what makes them worth sticking with season after season.

Last but absolutely not least, this piece featuring Maeve from Westworld, is all about Thandie Newton’s bad-ass character, who is a literal robot, dealing with all the expectations of what makes a perfect woman. Sexy (but not too sexy), submissive, feminine — it’s a familiar representation of how women often navigate the expectations of not only what they do, but how they do it. A near-universal experience of figuring out who you truly want to be in a world that is full of impossible standards.

 

I hope you’re inspired not only to enter to win, but also to meet me in the comments to talk about TV, as it is literally the only thing I want to do. What’s your favorite makeup look from Euphoria? The insult from VEEP you can’t wait to use? The pair of Shiv Roy pants you most covet? Sign up, comment, and we’ll reach out to let you know if you’ve won! Let’s talk about it alllllll.

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Feature graphic by Dasha Faires.

The post HBO Made Limited-Edition Totes and We’re Giving Them Away appeared first on Man Repeller.

Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season?

A trend begins when multiple designers tune into the same frequency and make stuff based on it. In the past, we have seen this mind meld on display at fashion week, but this season, I can barely identify a single new trend. There are some uniform styling tendencies creeping in at different junctures: dresses and tunics over pants at Sies Marjan, Tibi, Deveaux (Tommy Ton’s new brand), The Row, Gabriela—I could go on. There are pashminas (scarfs worn as capes, essentially) and polka dots and robe jackets— that is, long coats applied not as functional outerwear, but as significant improvements to your everyday look.

Pyer Moss Spring/Summer 2020

But on the macro-scale, the trends beyond those we’ve seen recycled, upcycled, downcycled, and sidewayscycled for the last 3 or 4 or 5 seasons, are no longer debuting at runway shows.

This, a reflection of the changing purpose of fashion week, is just one way in which the dust is beginning to settle on the question of what fashion week is supposed to do. What’s coming up in the place of these trends are cults, camps, groups— whatever you want to call them— created by the designers. And among these designers, now I know: there is a new guard, a middle guard, and an old guard.

Rosie Assoulin Spring/Summer 2020

The new guard, see: Area, Sandy Liang, or Pyer Moss, are taking back tacky and making it cool; they’re owning larger-than-life, or at least larger-than-my-life, gaudiness that exists intentionally, with purpose, not as a feckless nod to ostentation. They’re (see: Chromat, Collina Strada, Telfar, Eckhaus Latta) aligning themselves with cause, with design as a platform to encourage the morals and principles of an active cohort of opinions that span a spectrum of those who reject the historical way in which the fashion industry has attempted to ignore reality in favor of delusional reverie. It is, dare I say, a new American Dream.

The Row Spring/Summer 2020

The middle guard, on the other hand— think Staud or Tibi or even Rosie Assoulin, who design most prominently for a millennial customer—demand, perhaps unwittingly, wearability and clickability from their own clothes. You’ve got to be able to live the full range of your life in these garments and the designers know that because they do it. These are also the brands who have come up during the murkiest part of the transition from old dream to new dream and as a result, have been impacted by the era of social media and street style and camera flashes and the immortalization of what you wear as who you are. At best, that comes off as clothes that are wearable first, shareable second. At worst, there is no focus because of the straddle between new and old. A complete loss of any dream.

Gabriela Hearst Spring/Summer 2020

And within the old guard, which could use a better name, are designers like Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen for The Row or Gabriela Hearst for her eponymous label. The clothes are far enough removed from the new guard that you might think they’re being designed for different planets, but the designers don’t ignore the new altogether. Gabriela Hearst, for example, is using her platform to herald environmental change: her show yesterday was carbon neutral, the first of its kind in fashion.

They don’t ignore the middle either—The Row showed a legitimate wardrobe for Spring 2020. Expensive basics walked a runway that could have been a grocery store aisle (artisanal), or a city sidewalk (in a posh neighborhood), or a party (at The Met), for a woman who cares about how she looks but doesn’t give a shit if her peers care too. It’s less fashion, more quality, but because it does not ignore trends, it’s still fashion.

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2020

I’m not really sure where to deposit Proenza Schouler among these echelons. The brand defined the zeitgeist in the early 2010s, and because of the investment-related changes in control, Proenza Schouler has also experienced a public display of highs and lows. But in the last three or so years, they’ve hit a new stride—a simultaneous recognition of who they are and a confidence about it. If I could summarize last night’s presentation in a sentence, I’d call it 80s, baby, but make it fashion—no! Make it Proenza. A category unto itself for the people sitting in that room.

Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2020

Meanwhile, this morning, Michael Kors showed a classic tale of Kors-ian American sportswear entrenched in slight, literal references to punk culture (see: studs on topsiders) to the tune of a young choir singing such classics as “American Pie” and “Love Train.” I loved the clothing—I would wear so much of it. The styling is good, the identity is singular. There’s an air of Ralph Lauren about Michael Kors in the way he consistently designs within a cohesive world that’s insulated from our current rollercoaster reality. There’s an unrelenting pursuit of an oomph, some kind of glamour. It’s not so unlike what the new guard is up to, but the work of that guard feels less like a vision and more like a translation, or working through, of what it feels like to be alive right now. In this respect, the lack of consensus in the form of trends isn’t surprising, instead, we’re watching the new guard negotiate a new American Dream in real time, sloughing off older models that seem to be dying, or may already be dead.

Photos via Vogue Runway.

The post Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season? appeared first on Man Repeller.

12 (Very Cool) NYC Teens Explain Their Back-to-School Outfits

Growing up, there are few days of the year with greater expectations foisted upon them than the first day of school. And so the first day of school outfit is particularly crucial—it’s that initial swing everybody takes, simultaneously, at letting everyone else know what they’re all about now. Maybe it’s an introduction. Maybe it’s a re-introduction. Maybe it’s a reinvention! Either way, it always seems to feel very important. Photographer Olivia Wein, a New York City-based high school senior, invited some friends to Man Repeller HQ last week to take photos of their sacred first-day ensembles. Here, they share the thought process behind them.

Noah Schaub, 17 (Senior)

My look: I used to conform to societal masculine norms—sweatpants, a logo t-shirt. It was so binary and boring. In the past year, I’ve finally come into myself. It took a lot of internal work and reflective writing, but we’re here. I want to show other people that they can wear whatever they want. I love people who wear freaky shit.

How I got it: I saw this shirt at a thrift store last weekend and I thought, Oh my God, this is perfect. My dad gave me these jeans three days ago because I was like, “I need jeans.” I wanted to paint on them but he said I can’t. My friend Sidney did my makeup today. I wish I was like James Charles or Jeffree Star makeup-wise, but I’ve got to practice.



My inspiration: I watch a lot of thrifting haul videos. There’s a YouTuber named Internet Girl and she makes bundles of clothing and sells them to people. The bundles usually have a theme, it’s very interesting. I’ve gained more of a vocabulary about certain types of clothing from watching videos about thrifting—that’s how I know my look is more Y2K.

Evangelia, 17 (Senior)

My look: My outfit is very school-girl influenced. I wanted to wear something preppy, but I wanted it to have a little flair, so I went with the glittery makeup look, which is kind of Euphoria-inspired. I only really have two pairs of shoes, but I think these dress shoes go really nicely with long socks and I wanted to wear something flirty and fun for the first day—show off a little leg right off the bat.

How I got it: Both the top and the skirt are from a thrift shop in New Jersey called Bo’s Attic. They cost me about a dollar and 30 cents each. I’m close with the owner. I actually bought the shirt because I went to a student leadership program this summer, so this was going to be one of my business ‘fits. The shoes I got in Greece last summer. They look like Dr. Martens but they’re not. They hold up just as well and cost me about 15 euros. This necklace is from Dolls Kill which is kind of fast-fashion. It was only 12 bucks but I feel like it’s a good statement piece. My earrings are from Rainbow, I think. The clips are just from beauty supply stores.

I use Depop, Pinterest, We Heart It, and Instagram bookmarks to keep track of inspiration. That’s something I’m very passionate about. I had a paid internship at a graphic design company this summer and they basically had me explain to them what was cool and hip for Generation Z. I would just make huge mood boards based on all of the things I had saved.

What I hope happens this year: This year, I’d like to pursue my creative endeavors a lot more. I’ve been trying to build my writing and drawing skills. I’ve already started working on bigger projects, but I would love to actually establish myself as an artist in the New York underground scene. Personally, I’m just trying to find stability in being alone more. I think the most important thing you can do for yourself is establish a strong sense of identity and be comfortable with your social location.

I don’t care what you think about me. I’m cute regardless, baby.
Shandra, 17 (Senior)

 My look: This summer was a hot girl summer so I’ve been partying a lot and hanging out with my friends. I’ve never shopped at Rainbow, but everybody says it’s great if you want something cheap and you’re just going to wear it to a party or something. So I was like, “It’s hot girl summer. That’s the move.” I went there with my best friend—well, ex-best friend—and she was like, “This would look so good on you.” I was like, “Really? I don’t know. I’ll think about it.” A week later I went there again with two other friends and they were like, “Shandra! You have to get this outfit.” It’s not really something I would normally wear because I’m more into baggy urban street style. I just thought it was interesting that all my friends had the same view of me.

My makeup: A lot of people know me for drawing face tattoos on myself with makeup—for me, makeup is expression—but since this outfit was so different, I wanted a very sleek, clean look. I’m actually bald with green hair under this wig, but I knew I wanted a nice slick, low bun with some nice sassy vibes. I did the lip liner, and I was like, that’ll be bold, like, I’m hot, but I’m still cute. I love mink lashes. I’m so dramatic in everything I do, so I always have really long, dramatic lashes.

My take on first-day hype: I feel like stressing over first-day outfits is more middle school or freshman year because you want to look cute for boys. Me? I’m like, I don’t care what you think about me. I’m cute regardless, baby. This year, all I’m thinking about is college and the fact that I’m about to be out. Bye!

Maya, 16 (Junior)

Can you tell me about your look?

The boots I’m wearing are actually my favorites. I bought them off my friend because I was always borrowing them. They go up really high. I love them so much. The pants are a recent buy. I bought them specifically with the idea of, How can I show up back to school with my same style, but also kind of show off? I love them so much. I bought them online and it’s one of the first times an online purchase actually fit my proportions pretty well. The belt is my dad’s. The shirt was given to me by my grandma. I get all my clothes from her. The neon green glows under a black light. It’s super weird and random. I adore it so much.

What do you want your first day outfit to say?

I know I’m going to have the chance to wear this for the rest of the year, but that first day just has to be the reminder that… can I swear?

Yes?

….I’m still that bitch. It’s like, I’m still here. I didn’t change over the summer. Or maybe I did and this is the representation of it.

Do you normally plan your outfits in advance?

Only sometimes. I have a very serious streak of getting to school late, mostly for that reason. I procrastinate a lot, so I don’t plan my outfits out very often, unless it’s something like the first day of school. I bought these pants specifically for that. And I originally had another pair of shoes that I also bought for back to school, but as much as I love them, I scrapped them because I’ve got to keep it fresh.

What do you hope happens this year?

I was actually thinking about this a little while ago: Fashion is something I want to go a little deeper into. I feel like my sense of style didn’t really develop until last year. The year before that, whatever was big, I liked. But I’ve met a completely different group of friends that I’ve connected with way more. My friend and I started a band, so we see way more of that artistic scene. We play a lot of punk rock, specifically fem-oriented punk rock. We’re inspired by Siouxsie and the Banshees and Hole. I think from there, I was able to realize, Oh, I don’t need to do everything BuzzFeed tells me to do.

Zarvon, 16 (Senior)

Can you tell me about how your outfit came together?

This is going to be my last first day of school, so I wanted to do something a little bit more flashy. I just got these new pants on Grailed—they’re Nike x AMBUSH. Lately, I’ve just been trying to dress as weirdly as possible while keeping it all black, kind of dressing like a ninja. These Dior sneakers are my favorite shoes and then I just threw on this regular Supreme T-shirt. I try to not put too much effort into my outfits. Also, one thing I don’t like is matching. I feel like matching is too easy.

Have you had most of these things for a while or are they all new?

I really just got into fashion, like, sophomore year of high school. I remember the moment I decided I had to dress good: I put on these Brooks Brothers green pants with a baby blue polo shirt and when I came into school everyone completely roasted me. They were like, “You got dressed in the dark! What’s wrong with your outfit? Do you know how to match colors or anything?!” So then I went shopping with some of my friends—one of my friends, Axel, really helped me out. I used to shop at H&M and Zara a lot, and I used to look up to rappers to copy outfits, like Travis Scott or A$AP Rocky. But the more I got into fashion, I just started to develop my own sense of style.

How big of a deal is a first day of school outfit to you usually?

I don’t really care about first day of school outfits. In the fourth grade or something, I had a Winnie the Pooh shirt that I thought was really fresh and I really wanted to wear that. But now I feel like everything is all about Instagram, that’s where people see your outfits. Honestly, I feel like you shouldn’t wear your best outfit on the first day of school because you’re setting the bar too high. You should have some chill.

 

If I don’t like my outfit it’ll literally ruin my day.
Jian, 17 (Senior)

How’d you put your outfit together?

I wanted to do a tonal look, so I chose red and then I mixed textures—cotton, silk, the elastic on the belt. Because it was dressy, I put on Converse to make it a little more plain or casual.

Sounds like you have an advanced approach. How into fashion are you?

It’s a pretty big part of my life. My mom was always into fashion, so it was introduced to my brother and I early on. If I don’t like my outfit it’ll literally ruin my day. It sucks that it has that control, but it’s a fact.

Red is a bold color to go with for the first day.

I know. Red is my favorite color because in Chinese culture it’s considered lucky. I honestly like to wear black all the time, but I feel like for the first day of school you should try something different to make an impression.

How does makeup factor in?

I don’t wear a full face. I have admiration for people who can do that, especially for school. I know of people who wake up an hour early to do their makeup and there’s always a girl in the bathroom doing her makeup because her parents don’t let her leave the house like that. Good for them. But I don’t wear any foundation, concealer, bronzer, or anything. I’ve been becoming more interested, but honestly, I like the way my face looks when it’s more chill.

What do you want to study in college? Do you know?

I’ve been interested in international relations for a while because I’m so fascinated by different cultures and languages and food and stuff like that. But recently I’ve become more interested in environmental [issues]. Everyone I say that to is like, “We need it.” I genuinely want to help fix the world.

Indigo, 15 (Junior)

My look: Putting together a first-day of school outfit is fun. I would like to say that I don’t care about it, but I do. There’s no stress though, I’m just doing it for me. I got this skirt in the winter so I haven’t been able to wear it enough yet. It’s darling in my opinion. And so is the shirt: cute, innocent enough, not too flashy, it just says, “hey.” The shoes I chose are my tried-and-trues. I got them at a thrift store for $5. They’re dirty, but that’s okay. All of my clothes are thrifted. I think it’s a talent. You have to find your own stuff and make something out of it.

My inspiration: I follow a lot of those runway archive pages on Instagram. I also get inspired by what I find in thrift stores. Sometimes one thing can shape an outfit. Also, David Bowie. It’s not like I want to dress like him, but I think he’s so cool for being him. My mom showed me a parody of the “Space Oddity” video—and I was like, Whoa, I like this song, so I watched the original.

What I hope happens this year: I’m moving back to Florida. I used to live there and then in 9th grade I moved to New York because my dad lives here. But I’m moving back down, and it’s going to be awesome because I’m going to get a car. I’m really excited. I’m doing online school which gives me my own timeline. I’ll probably still get dressed for online school—a cute top and some sweatpants. I have these Juicy Couture tracksuit bottoms that I always pair with a cute shirt. I’m like, This is stylish. It’s Juicy.

Juliet, 14 (Sophomore)

The look: It depends on the day, but I like my clothes to be either extremely bright and glittery or dark and fitted. Usually when I’m wearing bright clothes, I add gems. I feel like it highlights my face and adds a little sparkle. I got my shirt off Depop, which I think is a really cool site. I think it’s important in this time, because you’re not wasting anything. People are sharing things that they’ve loved and passing them on to the next person. I’m really into flare jeans, like, 2000s low-waisted. I know people hate on low-waisted a lot, but they’re coming back.

What I want it to say: My outfit represents a more positive outlook on school. Last year, starting at a school I didn’t really want to go to was a difficult experience. My first first-day look was a little eerie, in a sense. I didn’t really want to be there. I didn’t want people to form an opinion on me because I didn’t want to be there for that long. But now I’ve started to like it better—I’ve gotten more into art—so my second-year first-day look is more positive.

My inspiration: Honestly, I get inspiration from a lot of people who go to my school. Everyone has really unique style. I don’t stick to a certain look. One month it’ll be more of a Y2K, 2000s thing and another day it’ll be more like a 90s, grungy style. My dad is a glass blower, so he grew up in an artsy scene in college. I see all his pictures from there and sometimes I get inspiration from that. He’s always telling me little things—like tie-dye and baggy jeans—and then when they come back into style he’s like, “I told you so.”

I don’t really know entirely where I got the fashion thing from, but I’ve got it and I have it really bad.
Ellison, 17 (Senior)

Tell me about your first-day look.

For the first day of school, I wanted something I’m comfortable in. School always brings up such bad anxiety issues—I mean, I feel like it does for everybody—so I wanted to make sure I’m wearing something I know I feel good and look good in. This shirt came to mind. It’s by Our Legacy. I got these camo pants on Depop for, like, $30. I saw the shoes in Opening Ceremony and I really considered getting them for a minute! Then I was like, Ellison, what are you thinking? You can’t do this! So I went onto Grailed and found them in perfect condition.

Love when that happens.

Such a good feeling.

What’s the story with your tiny Jacquemus bag?

This was my birthday present from my mom because Simon Porte Jacquemus is one of my favorite designers. His lavender thing that he just did—it was so good. I like that this was the invite to the fashion show. When he put it on sale, I was like, “Oh my God, this is it. This is what I want for my birthday.” I describe it more as a necklace than an actual accessory because you can’t really fit anything of substance in there. I can fit like one AirPod and that’s it.

Is your mom into fashion too?

Well, I have two moms. One of them is a photo producer and before that she was a documentarian. My other mom is a psychiatric nurse practitioner psychopharmacologist and she helps mainly teens and children with mental illnesses. So I don’t really know entirely where I got the fashion thing from, but I’ve got it and I have it really bad.

What do you want your first-day look to say?

I want it to say, “Yes, I’m tired, but I’m still going to be, like, a style icon all year and you can bet on that.” But I also don’t want to be too much of a bitch, because sometimes with the glasses I definitely give off that vibe.

Isabel, 17 (Senior)

How’d you put your outfit together?

I’m really into color coordination. I have this statement necklace and it makes me think of cotton candy, so I always like to do a blue and pink look with it. My friend gave me this blue dress and then I have all these butterfly clips from Amazon. I bought 100 and there are about 50 left. I feel like they make me look a little magical so I put them all throughout my hair. I always like to do my edges, so I did a hairstyle where I could do my edges while having my hair out. Then I put on the pink eyeshadow.

Can you tell me a little more about your makeup?

These freckles are fake. I used my friend’s eyebrow stuff, and I just dotted them on. I like doing different patterns and stuff, so I can have variation to the freckles. Today I thought it would just be a cute little moment. I’ve been into makeup for the past year, and I try as hard as I can to color code my eyeshadow to my outfit every day, if possible. Sometimes I like to do a rainbow during the week and if I can’t do a certain color, I get really upset, because I want it all to be in order.

How far in advance did you plan your outfit?

Two weeks. It’s really fun for me, because I like piecing everything together and making everything perfect. The first day of school also isn’t more important than the rest of the days. I have more time to prepare for the first day, but then I think of my second day outfit, then the third day. Later on, I just think of it the night before.

Nico, 15 (Junior)

My look: I wasn’t sure what to wear. These are all clothes I thrifted this summer. I knew I’d want to wear something no one had seen me wear before. The look is pretty traditional, but I felt like the shorter skirt and shoes made it my own. The shoes belonged to my mom, and she gave them to me as something special for my junior year, so I really cherish them because they’d been with her for so long.

My inspiration: I have a bunch of old fashion magazines stacked up at my house and I look through a lot of those. Seeing clothes from past eras has always interested me. This year, I got really into corsets and corset belts and it just happened to be what was in fashion.

What I hope happens this year: Last year was a really rough year for me. I have epilepsy, so I struggle with my health a lot. This year, I hope I can just focus on my school work. Since I’m going into junior year, I get to be in the first public performance at my school. (We only get to perform in the plays as juniors and seniors.) That’s a big thing that I’m really looking forward to. I just hope that I don’t stress myself out too much—I already have a part-time job and I want to be able to see my friends and stay connected to everyone.

Jack, 14 (Freshman)

How did you go about choosing your outfit?

I kinda wanted something that might appeal to a lot of different people because I’m not really sure what kind of people I’ll end up being friends with this year. I have my dad’s old Beatles shirt on that has some holes in it and paint on it and stuff. It’s really soft and comfortable. The pants I’ve had for a while so they’re worn down a little bit, a little bit more comfortable, and the shoes are hand-me-downs from my step-brother.

Do you borrow t-shirts from your dad a lot?

Yeah, he has a lot of really old, soft t-shirts and they’re good pajamas and stuff. I wear them a lot.

Photographer Olivia Wein and her brother, Jack.

So, if you’re interested in what someone is wearing, does that make it easier to strike up a conversation?

Yeah. That’s why me and [sister and story photographer] Olivia both thought the band t-shirt would be cool because I’m really into music and stuff. If I see someone with a t-shirt from a band or a show that I know, that’s a way for me to relate to someone I don’t really know that well.

I forgot to ask about your necklace! What’s the deal with it?

The necklace is something I drew and my friend made for me. It’s a wolf head carved out of bone and blue pietersite, which is supposed to be like the eye of the storm—kind of focused and relaxed.

Photos by Olivia Wein. Produced by Sabrina Santiago.

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The Very Best Street Style Looks From NYFW: Day 5

Once upon a time, runways may have been the authority on New York Fashion Week trends. In 2019, however, I would posit that street style has officially usurped this norm. There are numerous factors contributing to this shift–more broadly, the democratization of influence courtesy of social media, of course, but also the simple truth that seeing an interesting sartorial idea in action out in the real world makes it seem that much more immediately viable. There’s something about witnessing a trend in action that ups its potency, a tangible demonstration of how you might conceivably wear it. This season, I’ve already noticed a few things I want to try, like wearing a literal tennis skirt with zero intention to play tennis, rekindling my relationship with my old motorcycle jacket, and even reconsidering the possibility of maxi (!) skirts. Give the below slideshow a scroll and let me know what you’re keen to attempt.

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Photos by Karolina Kaczynska and Louisa Wells.

The post The Very Best Street Style Looks From NYFW: Day 5 appeared first on Man Repeller.

Inside the Endearing Cult of Susan Alexandra

Susan Korn’s mother is weeping. Her daughter, the designer behind Susan Alexandra, is sitting on a chair hoisted six feet in the air, in the midst of a traditional Horah dance. She is surrounded by concentric circles of models identifiable by her signature beaded bags affixed to their heads, friends, family members, influencers, and editors, all of whom are singing and dancing along with the music. At one point, a group breaks out into a spontaneous chant: “SUSAN! SUSAN! SUSAN!”

Today is Susan’s bat mitzvah. Or rather, her second bat mitzvah. Her first took place at the more traditional age of 13, but at this iteration, 11 years later, in the penthouse of the Public Hotel, she’s not the only one becoming a woman–her brand is, too, with its inaugural season of ready-to-wear.

“It’s always been my dream to make clothes,” Susan told me. “I made a conscious decision to not do it when I first started out, because I was so scared. I was like, ‘I don’t have what it takes. I mean, how can I compete in this world of fashion where there’s so many amazing designers?’ I really let fear hold me back.”

Susan isn’t just a designer. She’s a cult leader, too. The good kind.

More than a decade later, she finally had enough confidence to take the leap, largely because of how successful her accessories line has been. “I had no idea what I was doing when I began making bags and jewelry, so I figured, why shouldn’t I try doing another thing I have no idea how to do?”

Her success thus far stems from more than just profit. As I looked around the penthouse, packed with as many people as there were pink balloons, almost all of whom were sporting one of Susan’s signature beaded bags, this was more apparent than ever. Susan isn’t just a designer. She’s a cult leader, too. The good kind.

Cult members include up-and-coming comedians like Lauren Servideo and Catherine Cohen. Drag queens like Steak Diane (who helped design her new collection) and Crystal Mesh. Internet sensations like Benito Skinner. Lauded writers like Naomi Fry. Famous children such as Suri Cruise. And perhaps most importantly, regular girls in their teens and early twenties who stop each other on the sidewalk when they spot a tell-tale glimpse of Susan Alexandra sparkle, be it a bag or a Best Friend cuff.

There’s a hashtag for this precise encounter–#spottedinsusanalexandra, affixed to the Instagram posts of photos Susan receives from friends and fans alike whenever they see someone with one of her designs. “It’s like a rare bird spotting,” Susan told me.

I just realized this now, but maybe Susan is the mom we’ve always wanted, who lets us wear every color in the rainbow and seven bracelets on one wrist.

It’s also indicative of the kind of community the cult of Susan Alexandra has fostered, one in which beaded bag-carrying members can message the designer on the very app they discovered her on and actually get a response. Her customers are more than customers–they’re fangirls, so devoted they frequently recognize her chihuahua, Pigeon, on the street when she walks him around Chinatown.

“Everything about her company encourages you to let your inner child come out and play, and I think that’s why she has such a strong following,” 21-year-old Emma, a fellow bat mitzvah attendee who interned for Susan over the summer, told me. “I just realized this now, but maybe Susan is the mom we’ve always wanted, who lets us wear every color in the rainbow and seven bracelets on one wrist.”

Belle, Susan’s 20-year-old Head of Photo, attributed her loyal following to Instagram: “Susan can relate to her customers on a personal level through Instagram, sharing memes, answering DMs and comments, and posting daily as if she was just another girl next door.”

Despite Susan’s relatable demeanor on social media, Belle admitted she was too intimidated to approach her when she saw her for the first time in person at a craft fair in San Francisco: “My boyfriend forced me to talk to her by saying if I didn’t, he would.”

This duality–part girl next door, part internet celebrity–is what lends the cult of Susan Alexandra its simultaneous allure of inclusivity and mystique. Her brand maintains the rare kind of under-the-radar notoriety wherein not everyone would immediately recognize one of her bags on the street, but those who do are so excited about it they hastily snap a blurry photo.

This thread of emotional connection is what transforms Susan’s many fans into a bonafide community.

“I get the most beautiful, kindest messages from customers all the time,” Susan told me. “They say things like, ‘I’m going through a breakup, and your bag just makes me smile,’ or, ‘I met my best friend because we both were wearing your bags on the street, and we got lunch because we liked each other,’ or ‘your work just brings so much joy to my life.’”

This thread of emotional connection is what transforms Susan’s many fans into a bonafide community, one that will show up for a 34-year-old’s second bat mitzvah and chant her name again and again until her mother starts to cry, because they all understand that selling stuff is ultimately secondary to Susan Alexandra’s mission: changing how people feel.

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Photos by Sabrina Santiago.

The post Inside the Endearing Cult of Susan Alexandra appeared first on Man Repeller.

One Sentence Recap Day 6 Dispatch: Batsheva, Dion Lee & More

One-sentence reviews are back, which in fashion week terms is like the equivalent of a box arriving at your doorstep full of confetti and outfit ideas. The promise of new identities to be explored and new ideas to be transcribed. Of thoughtful debate and examination. It’s all there, on runway platforms and ballpoint pen tips: infinite question marks waiting to be turned into exclamation points. And it’s all so much, so consider this your text message recap. Scroll for our preliminary takes—brief stabs at the heart of what makes NYFW tick—and chime in with your thoughts. What good, after all, is a text message sent without a rebuttal received? Oh, and if you’re in New York this month, might I suggest swinging by your nearest Maman to celebrate fashion week with an oatmeal raisin latte, created by Leandra, just for you.

Day Six
Batsheva

Based on prior Batsheva shows, I heavily suspected there would be some kind of performative aspect to this one, a hunch that was confirmed as soon as I entered the room where it would be taking place–a relatively mundane classroom in the basement of NYU Law–and saw dozens of T-shirts and sweatshirts placed at each seat, emblazoned with the words “Batsheva University.” Indeed, class was certainly in session at my last event of fashion week; we were treated to a lecture from three professors on the subtext embedded in Batsheva’s designs, a meditation on femininity and modesty that served as the soundtrack for the collection of signature gingham, pinafores, ruffles, and “house dresses” worn by a cast of definitively non-model models. —Harling

Dion Lee

Atop a middle school in lower Manhattan under the blazing hot sun, Dion Lee sent a bevy of minimalist-90s club kid looks down the runway. Casual white day-corsets, thigh-high black boots with structured suiting, mesh tops, bandana dresses and GIGANTIC purses were all made to look like feasible Thursday (sexy Thursday, but Thursday nevertheless) outfits by mixing reserved color palettes and beautifully-made neutral-colored harnesses for looks that were more eye-catching than shocking. —Nora

Day Five
Proenza Schouler

Brevity has not been my strong suit this week, but for the sake of Proenza Schouler, precisely, conclusively, indelibly itself and to that point, absolutely immaculate, it can only be said: 80s, baby! But make it 2019 fashion. Omg, and also, not to break character, or my commitment to run-on sentences, but this next one deserves its own. If you see what I see, you must know what I know: Proenza Schouler x Birkenstock is-a-coming. —Leandra

Oscar de la Renta

There is something so satisfying about observing a fashion show meet the expectations you had for fashion shows before ever attending one—I always assumed that like any other basic story, they had beginnings, middles and ends; that the clothes took you through a day in someone’s life. This fictitious person changes by brand but for Oscar de la Renta, who delivered on my incipient expectations, she’s got the works laid out for her with a collection of tunics and caftans for sunbathing and galaing, tea dresses and skirts for luncheons (and blazers in case it gets chilly!), there were a few great asymmetric mini skirts rendered in structured poplin or silk moire and those were paired with short sleeve button-down shirts, at the end of it all came the !evening! wear — not just dresses but dresses and two instances of separates in a couple of crystal tops and tulle ball gown skirts, I loved the whole damn thing — start to finish. —Leandra

Coach

I love a show that has so much production budget that you get to sit on The Highline at sunset with a cool breeze and a cocktail, and then Eva Chen sits next to you and you introduce yourself and become five years old again and can’t ask her for a picture and then the show starts and the music is thrumming so loudly you can feel it in your whole body and you watch the looks approach you but the breeze-blown hair from the seatmate to your left is flying in your mouth and you’re making light spitting noises BUT the clothes were tailored and crisp and bore Barbra Streisand’s face and you feel the warm energy of being surrounded by clothes. —Amalie

Eckhaus Latta

Unsurprisingly, there was a lot of neon green, neck tattoos, and clothes featuring flames in the Eckhaus Latta audience today, and the subtle social flexing was on high volume: I spotted multiple instances of seat theft and subsequent eye rolls as I waited for the show to begin in the humid industrial space in Brooklyn. Once it did start, I was sent on a stylistic rollercoaster; what do these things have in common: A silk navy suit with billowing pleats, gray cotton cargo pants, and an electric blue sequined spaghetti-strap mini dress? (Tell me if you think of an answer!) All I can say is, this collection—with its vintage-looking knit dresses, sleek oversized suits, and deconstructed going out tops—defies categorization unless that categorization is “your cool downtown friend whose outfit surprises you every time.” —Haley

Gabriela Hearst

You can usually tell that a bunch of designers are on the same wavelength, this is called the beginning of a trend, but this season more than any other, I’ve pinpointed so few that we might actually be post-trend; actually, no, that’s not possible—but trends are obviously no longer being born at runway shows; what you do find, however, are specific camps being designed into: generation z’s take back of tacky, millennial clothes that attract “likes” but are still conclusively wearable and the advanced, streamlined nature of a designer like Gabriela Hearst, who hails from the same camp as The Row, but perhaps with a tilt that leans more heavily on fashion (and less on presenting true wardrobe armor)—for Spring she wants you to know that while it doesn’t take a lot to say a lot, in the interest of newness, you shouldn’t look back either: these are the clothes of the moment. —Leandra

Day Four
3.1 Phillip Lim

There are three outfits from the Phillip Lim show that I can’t stop thinking about and I will share them with you, too, so we can mutually churn them in our collective minds like a song that is stuck in our heads, okay? Okay here we go: the first is a pea soup-colored suit worn over a cropped crochet top and decorated with what looks like a leather shawl (genius), then another leather shawl made an appearance except this one was more of a leather basketweave situation, worn over a loose-knit sweater with white Bermuda shorts and ankle boots so low they could almost pass as loafers, then a white jacket with cutouts worn over white culottes (culottes!) and a cream kerchief. I want to recreate all of them, which is why I just googled “leather shawl,” and rest assured I WILL report back. —Harling

Sandy Liang

As a lover of soft things (see: an abnormally large soft coat collection in my possession), I fell in love with Sandy Liang *first* through her edgy unisex fleeces, then leveled-up to loving her cheeky feminine-but-not dresses, intarsia polo sweaters, and slinky slip skirts. This season, she built and expanded upon her known repertoire with more non-gendered sheer dresses, soft coats, bleached denim, and an iridescent babydoll dress I won’t soon forget (SOS). Is it creeptastic that I know everything about her and her dog and her partner and her family’s restaurant from Instagram, too? I love Sandy, I loved the show, I want everything on my body posthaste. —Amalie

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

I showed up at MNZ wearing a sheer black nightgown with high-waisted black underwear, basically naked, but I put a cardigan over my shoulders out of respect, you know, for the public-display-of-nudity naysayers among us—lord help them if they were present at MNZ, where the opening looks consisted of those mini-skirt bikini-bottom bathing suits that were popular in the 90s reimagined as regular skirts within the collection and one model who actually just wore a bikini with boots; there were loads more bra tops, too, but the dead ringer for “my look” was a white lightweight (whiteweight?) nylon jumpsuit and a pair of checkered pants with a printed skirt over it; it’s unclear whether they’re skants but, anyway, I’m still naked and open to wearing more clothing. —Leandra

Carolina Herrera

The entrance of the Carolina Herrera show venue in Battery Park was crowded with men wearing black button-downs tucked into black pants–the kind of uniform you might wear if you were serving champagne at a party, or checking people in at the door, but they were doing neither. I made a note of this as I walked in but was quickly distracted by the throngs of celebrities I recognized and VIPs I didn’t recognize but knew to be important by virtue of the fact that they were dressed in Full Looks with Full Makeup and kept standing up to get photographed. Fifteen or so minutes later, once everyone was seated, the aforementioned men in black assembled near the runway and began peeling back a layer of thin plastic to reveal a perfectly pristine white carpet underneath, and thus their purpose was revealed–along with the overall aura of the collection: gowns, ball skirts, and jackets so beautifully constructed you would almost be tempted to ensconce them in protective covering for eternity. —Harling

The Row

We get, like, three days a year to wear garments for different seasons in the same outfit, and it is up to us not to F it up. So allow me to identify the ideal summer-to-fall transition outfit for a cloudy day clocking in at 57 degrees fahrenheit: a navy blue, single-breast blazer styled over a black half-zip, with cotton sweatpants half-tucked into black socks—only slightly, but still intentionally—and double-strap flat sandals that look like a cross between a Teva and a Birkenstock. But wait, there’s another: It’s a shell turtleneck under a blue button-down paired with another-shade-of-blue straight skirt, and the shoes are actually an excuse to not wear shoes, like Saran wrap around a sole. God I love them. —Leandra

Day Three
Prabal Gurung

I was wondering why Prabal Gurung’s 10th anniversary show was slated to be held at Spring Studios (which essentially provides a template for brands to produce runway shows), but then I learned that he pulled out of plans to host his show at Hudson Yards after the location’s affiliation with Stephen Ross (see: his Trump fundraiser in the Hamptons) came to light, and therefore Gurung had to think fast. The theme was “Who gets to be an American?”—it was clear where the designer stood. I may have been peering from the very back, but I felt the show was alive with the smell of fresh flowers (in both models’ baskets and hanging from the ceiling), rich reds, blues and greens, and looks ranging from yoga studio to benefit gala. The feathers and the floral headpieces all reached my line of vision, but the rest I had to drink in on Getty. As such, my phone stayed happily in my lap. —Amalie

Collina Strada

I raced to Collina Strada’s venue from another show, so by the time I arrived I was on the verge of panic that I was going to miss it, causing a slight delay in my fully digesting the surroundings once I (finally) took my seat. The show was situated on the outskirts of a park in the East Village, allowing bystanders to peep through an iron gate and see what I saw: a corridor of NYC pavement lined with picnic tables topped with all manner of farmer’s market spoils—oranges, kale, squash, flowers, etc.—through which models wearing tie-dye, velvet, iridescent ensembles engaged in all manner of New York City activities, from pushing kids in strollers, or calmly eating grapes to breaking out into spontaneous freestyle dance. Dance! —Harling

Jason Wu

Jason Wu is a brand that makes me want to get dressed up, an impulse that was no doubt exacerbated by the fact that I was dressed down while in attendance at the brand’s show and party, in stark contrast to the ethereal gowns floating inches away from my sturdy Birkenstocks—and when I say “floating” I don’t mean it metaphorically, the preponderance of feathers and chiffon caused each garment to literally hover with every step the models took. —Harling

Rosie Assoulin

Rosie Assoulin’s presentation was perched amid farmers’ market shoppers at the Union Square Italian restaurant Bocce, where her visitors were met with a self-pickling station upon entering the venye. Just past the station was Assoulin herself, taking editors through her new collection — classic Rosie in its joyful, feminine wearability; think: long, asymmetrical hemlines, ruffled shirts, skirts attached to shorts and utilitarian but sleek khaki sets. The accessories had an heirloom quality to them, from brass produce jewelry to literal basket bags and wide-brim straw sun hats—still, small quirky details made them feel perfectly of-the-moment. —Elizabeth

Tibi

If I were handing out senior superlatives for fashion week shows, “comfiest seat” would be awarded to Tibi, which took place in the middle of Times Square in a venue stacked theater-style with red velvet chairs—a fitting perch from which to view another iteration of Amy Smilovic’s mission to clothe women both stylishly and comfortably at the same time. The components of each outfit didn’t stray far from those in previous seasons (which is kind of the point—Tibi’s formula is what makes it so consistently compelling), though there was undoubtedly a standout piece: parachute cargo pants rendered in shades so vibrant they seemed edible, from cotton candy hues to just-ripe melon. —Harling

Staud

Social media clothes are usually pretty impractical—you put them on to take a picture then take them off because they’re kind of impossible to wear—but when the clothes deliver on your color-bait desires while also being simple silhouettes rendered in easy fabrics you could practically sleep in, you get to have your likes and eat them too. Lmk how they taste. —Leandra

Mansur Gavriel

I was so thirsty when I got to Mansur Gavriel, which is why it felt like kismet when a kind waiter handed me an enormous pineapple juice beverage housed inside an actual pineapple, but I had an aha! moment when I realized it was also a distillation of what Mansur Gavriel is so good at doing—seamlessly marrying the “it” factor with something that actually serves its customer in a tangibly functional way, whether that’s making a warm sweater in the perfect oversized silhouette that just so happens to be bedecked with cumulus clouds or nipping the ankles of a pair of khakis in such a way that they become statement as well as staple. —Harling

Tory Burch

Clothes you wanna wear—at this point, it’s all I ask for, and Tory Burch delivered within her Brooklyn Museum environs where scones and quiche were served pre-show and scalloped linen monogrammed napkins met guests at their seats; maybe I was well fed, and had been charmed by the gesture, but those big navy pants paired with the napkin bib shirt and striped cardigan; or the salmon pink ankle length dress styled over matching silk pants that dragged gracefully against the floor made me feel even more like I get myself. Same trick, different hat, still me. —Leandra

Day Two
Suzanne Rae

In the rustic Flamboyán theater on the LES, I sat in a folding chair and was met by a real song and dance from two performers dressed in Suzanne Rae, backed by a big digital screen playing original video spliced with news footage and while the performers belted and shimmied, models came out wearing 20 different looks from the camps of sleepleisure, collegiate harkenings, fringe, and fun hats; the signature square toe d’orsay and Mary Jane shoes walked in vibrant primary colors and metallics— all in all it was joyful and upbeat and if you left without knowing your seat mate’s name and favorite dance move, you missed the point. —Elizabeth

Chromat

Chromat felt like that club I could never get into, but last night I did—actually everyone was welcome, including the long-ass line wrapped around the block, full of leopard print body suits and crystal-dripped shoulder pads with a wingspan of three feet. The music thrummed in anticipation of the show’s 45-minute-late start and I felt compelled to DAHNCE but the models took over, storming down the runway in cobalt blue and flaming red swimwear, with a surprise serenade from Rico Nasty. I love it here! —Amalie

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren threw a cocktail party on Wall Street last night that made me feel like I was in Paris and it was the 1920s and chilled champagne was shimmering like diamonds on socialite ears and everyone came dressed in black and white per the dress code requirement and Lauren Santo Domingo went so far as to generously offer that I was emanating a Lee Radziwill vibe and the show—a panoply of black-tie suits and gowns and sweaters with bears on them—added one more layer of glamour to the suspended time lapse in which I sat at a table eating Polo Club nuts and smoky potato chips and standing up to clap with the rest of the room at the end of the collection presentation as an unspoken but earnest thank you to Ralph for bringing us here, on this night, to remember the good old days; I don’t want to escape the present, but sometimes it’s nice to leave for just a minute. —Leandra

Area

The crowd at Spring Studios boasts so many hair colors, which I can see from the vantage point of a lateral fourth-row seat, where it has become even clearer that I am no longer the youth; so it goes, they say, with living, but from this vantage point I get to watch with stars in my eyes, attempting to understand the panoply of crystals and sequins and this one handbag t-shirt (I don’t know how else to describe it) that I saw someone wearing while we waited to check in (it had leather handles flapping out of the crew neck on both sides), and all this perfectly sets up what Area is going to show me: an enchanting cocktail of fantasy and escapism (birdcage skirts, crystal beards, literal armor that is beautiful, but clearly protective) stirred judiciously by the straw from which the culture drinks, dropping in tears of pragmatism (white eyelet button downs, an army green puff sleeve anorak vest) as if a translation, or proposition, the invitation to buy in—and let me tell you I’m in because while I may not be the youth anymore, I’m also not blind, and this, Area, is awesome. —Leandra

Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano designs for the red carpet, and his show made me feel like I was riding one, from the throng of people waiting outside the venue, no doubt hoping to catch a glimpse of a celebrity, to the grand interior once I stepped inside, made even more luxurious by the faint brush of Alicia Silverstone’s thigh against my elbow as she squeezed past en route to her seat, which I couldn’t find even when I craned my neck, but I imagine was well-situated to witness what unfolded next: an ocean of mermaid-esque ensembles in various iterations of rainbow and seafoam, worn by a cast of models that exemplified a refreshing consideration of size-inclusivity. —Harling

Kate Spade

Whoa, sorry to be filing this after the sun is beginning to set, but you know what they say in the heat of the digital age—it is better late than never, or worse, early, and let me tell you, I might be late but creative director Nicola Glass delivered right on time this morning at the Elizabeth Street garden in Nolita where 35 models, a combination of those by trade and those by proxy (real people! In the world! Who give personality to the clothes they wear!) showed a collection of loose pants and tunic tops, pastel crochet knee-length covers, and ribbed knit numbers; there were some khaki jumpsuits and these rly cute Dr. Scholls-style slippers, which made the fact that everyone was holding some form of greenery make so much sense, as if to say: people in green houses should totally throw parties. —Leandra

Ulla Johnson

In this episode of “What I Would Wear to a Mediterranean Beach, but Touch Neither Surf nor Sand Lest It Ruin My Shell-Adorned Hemline, I’ll Just Have an Orange Wine and Salty Olives Thanks” is: Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2020. —Amalie

Baja East

Scott Studenberg of Baja East invited his audience to peek into his newfound California life at Milk Studios on 15th Street, in a room furnished with his own living room rugs. Studenberg explained the brand’s relaunch, following a three-season hiatus, to the 40-or-so-person audience with heartfelt honesty. The designer used Tarot Cards—which he recently learned how to read—as inspiration for some of the pieces, while other looks featured trippy psychedelic prints and all-white combinations (which Scott adores and was wearing himself). With an emotional thank you, he sat among the models, each clad in the sporty ribbed knits, fringes, sequins, and prints for which the brand has been known and loved. —Elizabeth

Christopher John Rogers

In CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Christopher John Rogers’s NYFW runway debut, the idea that humans contain multitudes was on full display: iridescent tent dresses, metallic teal suits, ruffled collars (if you’re feeling it, put it on!) were all accompanied by no-holds-barred vogueing courtesy of models who clearly relished the opportunity to express themselves in clothing that said more than words ever could. —Harling

Khaite

You know that feeling when you’re just like, in between? Weather, moods, ideas—whatever! You want to have your cake, but eat it too, because you’re not sure if you’re hungry but value optionality; I don’t know if I’m packing too many metaphors into what is supposed to be a single sentence but Khaite designs for that in-between and it’s a great exercise in compromise—what do you wear when you want to be on a beach, but you’re in a city? Maybe a wrap skirt that could be a sarong and button down shirt hooked only at the chest, or it’s Saturday night, right? And you’re not sure if you want to go capital-O Out or lowercase hang, so you wear a tulle Top (capital T, of course) and jeans—best yet, you’re in a flashy beach mood, so wear the skirt and the top, add rhinestone or pearl epaulettes, and off you go. —Leandra

Adam Lippes

“Extreme Glamping” is the phrase that came to mind at Adam Lippes’s presentation, set in a brick-walled room in a Downtown NYC skyscraper, in which one wall was lined with models wearing tent silhouettes, floor-sweeping dresses with matching or coordinating bucket hats, sequins, cozy knits, and raw denim touches, slivers of morning light shining between their bodies. Gowns were embroidered in sequin-encrusted nature scenes and pockets were a detail for nearly every dress or skirt worn, presumably meant for storing a Thermos? —Elizabeth

Day One
Tomo Koizumi

I will never be sure how the Tomo Koizumi beauty team managed to get model Ariel Nicholson’s long hair to gel into a sharp point for their one-woman show, but they did, and it stayed that way, all while she frolicked in larger-than-life Koizumi creations, which were made even *more* alive this year than last (which had been Koizumi’s fashion week debut), with wilder construction by way of incredible fabric appendages that moved like jellyfish legs as Nicholson danced from one look into the next. —Amalie

Hellessy

Hellessy is like Dylan’s Candy Bar for going-out tops, as evidenced from today’s rundown of delectable décolletage poofs, one-shouldered delights, torsos draped in silk, and billowing sleeves—each paired with unexpected bottoms like light-wash denim and hot pink velvet leggings, an homage to the universal truth that a good going-out top is as versatile as a Tootsie pop is interminable. —Harling

Shrimps

Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland recently admitted her distaste for digital prints and preference for patterns with a “painterly” feel, a sentiment on full display in her latest collection, which engenders the charming effect of looking simultaneously of the moment (thanks to pearly mini bags and horseshoe-emblazoned faux fur coats) and reminiscent of a different time—or rather, times plural (see: cloche hats, saloon-inspired skirts, parasols, etc.). —Harling

Mara Hoffman

For sustainability-driven Hoffman’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection, the idea of “what a woman might have worn on vacation in Greece in the 80s” was on the brain, which makes the familiar smocking, color-blocking, and voluminous silhouettes feel warmly at home anywhere, not just among white-washed walls and hee-hawing donkeys. —Amalie

Rodarte

My mom got married in 1985 at a venue that provided photo-taking opportunities not unlike those presented in Rodarte’s Spring/Summer 2020 lookbook, boasting the faces of a cast of familiar, famous characters dressed to the 11s in an array of sequins and brocade and iridescent materials layered upon ruffles and big sleeves and mermaid tails and tulle; some pants are interrupted by knee-high, sparkling boots, but to resuscitate my initial point: If only—my mom wishes (I called her, she told me)—she had worn Rodarte. —Leandra

Feature Photo via Getty Images, Photos via Vogue Runway.

The post One Sentence Recap Day 6 Dispatch: Batsheva, Dion Lee & More appeared first on Man Repeller.

One Sentence Recap Day 5 Dispatch: Gabriela Hearst, Eckhaus Latta & More

One-sentence reviews are back, which in fashion week terms is like the equivalent of a box arriving at your doorstep full of confetti and outfit ideas. The promise of new identities to be explored and new ideas to be transcribed. Of thoughtful debate and examination. It’s all there, on runway platforms and ballpoint pen tips: infinite question marks waiting to be turned into exclamation points. And it’s all so much, so consider this your text message recap. Scroll for our preliminary takes—brief stabs at the heart of what makes NYFW tick—and chime in with your thoughts. What good, after all, is a text message sent without a rebuttal received? Oh, and if you’re in New York this month, might I suggest swinging by your nearest Maman to celebrate fashion week with an oatmeal raisin latte, created by Leandra, just for you.

Day Five
Eckhaus Latta

Unsurprisingly, there was a lot of neon green, neck tattoos, and clothes featuring flames in the Eckhaus Latta audience today, and the subtle social flexing was on high volume: I spotted multiple instances of seat theft and subsequent eye rolls as I waited for the show to begin in the humid industrial space in Brooklyn. Once it did start, I was sent on a stylistic rollercoaster; what do these things have in common: A silk navy suit with billowing pleats, gray cotton cargo pants, and an electric blue sequined spaghetti-strap mini dress? (Tell me if you think of an answer!) All I can say is, this collection—with its vintage-looking knit dresses, sleek oversized suits, and deconstructed going out tops—defies categorization unless that categorization is “your cool downtown friend whose outfit surprises you every time.” —Haley

Gabriela Hearst

You can usually tell that a bunch of designers are on the same wavelength, this is called the beginning of a trend, but this season more than any other, I’ve pinpointed so few that we might actually be post-trend; actually, no, that’s not possible—but trends are obviously no longer being born at runway shows; what you do find, however, are specific camps being designed into: generation z’s take back of tacky, millennial clothes that attract “likes” but are still conclusively wearable and the advanced, streamlined nature of a designer like Gabriela Hearst, who hails from the same camp as The Row, but perhaps with a tilt that leans more heavily on fashion (and less on presenting true wardrobe armor)—for Spring she wants you to know that while it doesn’t take a lot to say a lot, in the interest of newness, you shouldn’t look back either: these are the clothes of the moment. —Leandra

Day Four
3.1 Phillip Lim

There are three outfits from the Phillip Lim show that I can’t stop thinking about and I will share them with you, too, so we can mutually churn them in our collective minds like a song that is stuck in our heads, okay? Okay here we go: the first is a pea soup-colored suit worn over a cropped crochet top and decorated with what looks like a leather shawl (genius), then another leather shawl made an appearance except this one was more of a leather basketweave situation, worn over a loose-knit sweater with white Bermuda shorts and ankle boots so low they could almost pass as loafers, then a white jacket with cutouts worn over white culottes (culottes!) and a cream kerchief. I want to recreate all of them, which is why I just googled “leather shawl,” and rest assured I WILL report back. —Harling

Sandy Liang

As a lover of soft things (see: an abnormally large soft coat collection in my possession), I fell in love with Sandy Liang *first* through her edgy unisex fleeces, then leveled-up to loving her cheeky feminine-but-not dresses, intarsia polo sweaters, and slinky slip skirts. This season, she built and expanded upon her known repertoire with more non-gendered sheer dresses, soft coats, bleached denim, and an iridescent babydoll dress I won’t soon forget (SOS). Is it creeptastic that I know everything about her and her dog and her partner and her family’s restaurant from Instagram, too? I love Sandy, I loved the show, I want everything on my body posthaste. —Amalie

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

I showed up at MNZ wearing a sheer black nightgown with high-waisted black underwear, basically naked, but I put a cardigan over my shoulders out of respect, you know, for the public-display-of-nudity naysayers among us—lord help them if they were present at MNZ, where the opening looks consisted of those mini-skirt bikini-bottom bathing suits that were popular in the 90s reimagined as regular skirts within the collection and one model who actually just wore a bikini with boots; there were loads more bra tops, too, but the dead ringer for “my look” was a white lightweight (whiteweight?) nylon jumpsuit and a pair of checkered pants with a printed skirt over it; it’s unclear whether they’re skants but, anyway, I’m still naked and open to wearing more clothing. —Leandra

Carolina Herrera

The entrance of the Carolina Herrera show venue in Battery Park was crowded with men wearing black button-downs tucked into black pants–the kind of uniform you might wear if you were serving champagne at a party, or checking people in at the door, but they were doing neither. I made a note of this as I walked in but was quickly distracted by the throngs of celebrities I recognized and VIPs I didn’t recognize but knew to be important by virtue of the fact that they were dressed in Full Looks with Full Makeup and kept standing up to get photographed. Fifteen or so minutes later, once everyone was seated, the aforementioned men in black assembled near the runway and began peeling back a layer of thin plastic to reveal a perfectly pristine white carpet underneath, and thus their purpose was revealed–along with the overall aura of the collection: gowns, ball skirts, and jackets so beautifully constructed you would almost be tempted to ensconce them in protective covering for eternity. —Harling

The Row

We get, like, three days a year to wear garments for different seasons in the same outfit, and it is up to us not to F it up. So allow me to identify the ideal summer-to-fall transition outfit for a cloudy day clocking in at 57 degrees fahrenheit: a navy blue, single-breast blazer styled over a black half-zip, with cotton sweatpants half-tucked into black socks—only slightly, but still intentionally—and double-strap flat sandals that look like a cross between a Teva and a Birkenstock. But wait, there’s another: It’s a shell turtleneck under a blue button-down paired with another-shade-of-blue straight skirt, and the shoes are actually an excuse to not wear shoes, like Saran wrap around a sole. God I love them. —Leandra

Day Three
Prabal Gurung

I was wondering why Prabal Gurung’s 10th anniversary show was slated to be held at Spring Studios (which essentially provides a template for brands to produce runway shows), but then I learned that he pulled out of plans to host his show at Hudson Yards after the location’s affiliation with Stephen Ross (see: his Trump fundraiser in the Hamptons) came to light, and therefore Gurung had to think fast. The theme was “Who gets to be an American?”—it was clear where the designer stood. I may have been peering from the very back, but I felt the show was alive with the smell of fresh flowers (in both models’ baskets and hanging from the ceiling), rich reds, blues and greens, and looks ranging from yoga studio to benefit gala. The feathers and the floral headpieces all reached my line of vision, but the rest I had to drink in on Getty. As such, my phone stayed happily in my lap. —Amalie

Collina Strada

I raced to Collina Strada’s venue from another show, so by the time I arrived I was on the verge of panic that I was going to miss it, causing a slight delay in my fully digesting the surroundings once I (finally) took my seat. The show was situated on the outskirts of a park in the East Village, allowing bystanders to peep through an iron gate and see what I saw: a corridor of NYC pavement lined with picnic tables topped with all manner of farmer’s market spoils—oranges, kale, squash, flowers, etc.—through which models wearing tie-dye, velvet, iridescent ensembles engaged in all manner of New York City activities, from pushing kids in strollers, or calmly eating grapes to breaking out into spontaneous freestyle dance. Dance! —Harling

Jason Wu

Jason Wu is a brand that makes me want to get dressed up, an impulse that was no doubt exacerbated by the fact that I was dressed down while in attendance at the brand’s show and party, in stark contrast to the ethereal gowns floating inches away from my sturdy Birkenstocks—and when I say “floating” I don’t mean it metaphorically, the preponderance of feathers and chiffon caused each garment to literally hover with every step the models took. —Harling

Rosie Assoulin

Rosie Assoulin’s presentation was perched amid farmers’ market shoppers at the Union Square Italian restaurant Bocce, where her visitors were met with a self-pickling station upon entering the venye. Just past the station was Assoulin herself, taking editors through her new collection — classic Rosie in its joyful, feminine wearability; think: long, asymmetrical hemlines, ruffled shirts, skirts attached to shorts and utilitarian but sleek khaki sets. The accessories had an heirloom quality to them, from brass produce jewelry to literal basket bags and wide-brim straw sun hats—still, small quirky details made them feel perfectly of-the-moment. —Elizabeth

Tibi

If I were handing out senior superlatives for fashion week shows, “comfiest seat” would be awarded to Tibi, which took place in the middle of Times Square in a venue stacked theater-style with red velvet chairs—a fitting perch from which to view another iteration of Amy Smilovic’s mission to clothe women both stylishly and comfortably at the same time. The components of each outfit didn’t stray far from those in previous seasons (which is kind of the point—Tibi’s formula is what makes it so consistently compelling), though there was undoubtedly a standout piece: parachute cargo pants rendered in shades so vibrant they seemed edible, from cotton candy hues to just-ripe melon. —Harling

Staud

Social media clothes are usually pretty impractical—you put them on to take a picture then take them off because they’re kind of impossible to wear—but when the clothes deliver on your color-bait desires while also being simple silhouettes rendered in easy fabrics you could practically sleep in, you get to have your likes and eat them too. Lmk how they taste. —Leandra

Mansur Gavriel

I was so thirsty when I got to Mansur Gavriel, which is why it felt like kismet when a kind waiter handed me an enormous pineapple juice beverage housed inside an actual pineapple, but I had an aha! moment when I realized it was also a distillation of what Mansur Gavriel is so good at doing—seamlessly marrying the “it” factor with something that actually serves its customer in a tangibly functional way, whether that’s making a warm sweater in the perfect oversized silhouette that just so happens to be bedecked with cumulus clouds or nipping the ankles of a pair of khakis in such a way that they become statement as well as staple. —Harling

Tory Burch

Clothes you wanna wear—at this point, it’s all I ask for, and Tory Burch delivered within her Brooklyn Museum environs where scones and quiche were served pre-show and scalloped linen monogrammed napkins met guests at their seats; maybe I was well fed, and had been charmed by the gesture, but those big navy pants paired with the napkin bib shirt and striped cardigan; or the salmon pink ankle length dress styled over matching silk pants that dragged gracefully against the floor made me feel even more like I get myself. Same trick, different hat, still me. —Leandra

Day Two
Suzanne Rae

In the rustic Flamboyán theater on the LES, I sat in a folding chair and was met by a real song and dance from two performers dressed in Suzanne Rae, backed by a big digital screen playing original video spliced with news footage and while the performers belted and shimmied, models came out wearing 20 different looks from the camps of sleepleisure, collegiate harkenings, fringe, and fun hats; the signature square toe d’orsay and Mary Jane shoes walked in vibrant primary colors and metallics— all in all it was joyful and upbeat and if you left without knowing your seat mate’s name and favorite dance move, you missed the point. —Elizabeth

Chromat

Chromat felt like that club I could never get into, but last night I did—actually everyone was welcome, including the long-ass line wrapped around the block, full of leopard print body suits and crystal-dripped shoulder pads with a wingspan of three feet. The music thrummed in anticipation of the show’s 45-minute-late start and I felt compelled to DAHNCE but the models took over, storming down the runway in cobalt blue and flaming red swimwear, with a surprise serenade from Rico Nasty. I love it here! —Amalie

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren threw a cocktail party on Wall Street last night that made me feel like I was in Paris and it was the 1920s and chilled champagne was shimmering like diamonds on socialite ears and everyone came dressed in black and white per the dress code requirement and Lauren Santo Domingo went so far as to generously offer that I was emanating a Lee Radziwill vibe and the show—a panoply of black-tie suits and gowns and sweaters with bears on them—added one more layer of glamour to the suspended time lapse in which I sat at a table eating Polo Club nuts and smoky potato chips and standing up to clap with the rest of the room at the end of the collection presentation as an unspoken but earnest thank you to Ralph for bringing us here, on this night, to remember the good old days; I don’t want to escape the present, but sometimes it’s nice to leave for just a minute. —Leandra

Area

The crowd at Spring Studios boasts so many hair colors, which I can see from the vantage point of a lateral fourth-row seat, where it has become even clearer that I am no longer the youth; so it goes, they say, with living, but from this vantage point I get to watch with stars in my eyes, attempting to understand the panoply of crystals and sequins and this one handbag t-shirt (I don’t know how else to describe it) that I saw someone wearing while we waited to check in (it had leather handles flapping out of the crew neck on both sides), and all this perfectly sets up what Area is going to show me: an enchanting cocktail of fantasy and escapism (birdcage skirts, crystal beards, literal armor that is beautiful, but clearly protective) stirred judiciously by the straw from which the culture drinks, dropping in tears of pragmatism (white eyelet button downs, an army green puff sleeve anorak vest) as if a translation, or proposition, the invitation to buy in—and let me tell you I’m in because while I may not be the youth anymore, I’m also not blind, and this, Area, is awesome. —Leandra

Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano designs for the red carpet, and his show made me feel like I was riding one, from the throng of people waiting outside the venue, no doubt hoping to catch a glimpse of a celebrity, to the grand interior once I stepped inside, made even more luxurious by the faint brush of Alicia Silverstone’s thigh against my elbow as she squeezed past en route to her seat, which I couldn’t find even when I craned my neck, but I imagine was well-situated to witness what unfolded next: an ocean of mermaid-esque ensembles in various iterations of rainbow and seafoam, worn by a cast of models that exemplified a refreshing consideration of size-inclusivity. —Harling

Kate Spade

Whoa, sorry to be filing this after the sun is beginning to set, but you know what they say in the heat of the digital age—it is better late than never, or worse, early, and let me tell you, I might be late but creative director Nicola Glass delivered right on time this morning at the Elizabeth Street garden in Nolita where 35 models, a combination of those by trade and those by proxy (real people! In the world! Who give personality to the clothes they wear!) showed a collection of loose pants and tunic tops, pastel crochet knee-length covers, and ribbed knit numbers; there were some khaki jumpsuits and these rly cute Dr. Scholls-style slippers, which made the fact that everyone was holding some form of greenery make so much sense, as if to say: people in green houses should totally throw parties. —Leandra

Ulla Johnson

In this episode of “What I Would Wear to a Mediterranean Beach, but Touch Neither Surf nor Sand Lest It Ruin My Shell-Adorned Hemline, I’ll Just Have an Orange Wine and Salty Olives Thanks” is: Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2020. —Amalie

Baja East

Scott Studenberg of Baja East invited his audience to peek into his newfound California life at Milk Studios on 15th Street, in a room furnished with his own living room rugs. Studenberg explained the brand’s relaunch, following a three-season hiatus, to the 40-or-so-person audience with heartfelt honesty. The designer used Tarot Cards—which he recently learned how to read—as inspiration for some of the pieces, while other looks featured trippy psychedelic prints and all-white combinations (which Scott adores and was wearing himself). With an emotional thank you, he sat among the models, each clad in the sporty ribbed knits, fringes, sequins, and prints for which the brand has been known and loved. —Elizabeth

Christopher John Rogers

In CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Christopher John Rogers’s NYFW runway debut, the idea that humans contain multitudes was on full display: iridescent tent dresses, metallic teal suits, ruffled collars (if you’re feeling it, put it on!) were all accompanied by no-holds-barred vogueing courtesy of models who clearly relished the opportunity to express themselves in clothing that said more than words ever could. —Harling

Khaite

You know that feeling when you’re just like, in between? Weather, moods, ideas—whatever! You want to have your cake, but eat it too, because you’re not sure if you’re hungry but value optionality; I don’t know if I’m packing too many metaphors into what is supposed to be a single sentence but Khaite designs for that in-between and it’s a great exercise in compromise—what do you wear when you want to be on a beach, but you’re in a city? Maybe a wrap skirt that could be a sarong and button down shirt hooked only at the chest, or it’s Saturday night, right? And you’re not sure if you want to go capital-O Out or lowercase hang, so you wear a tulle Top (capital T, of course) and jeans—best yet, you’re in a flashy beach mood, so wear the skirt and the top, add rhinestone or pearl epaulettes, and off you go. —Leandra

Adam Lippes

“Extreme Glamping” is the phrase that came to mind at Adam Lippes’s presentation, set in a brick-walled room in a Downtown NYC skyscraper, in which one wall was lined with models wearing tent silhouettes, floor-sweeping dresses with matching or coordinating bucket hats, sequins, cozy knits, and raw denim touches, slivers of morning light shining between their bodies. Gowns were embroidered in sequin-encrusted nature scenes and pockets were a detail for nearly every dress or skirt worn, presumably meant for storing a Thermos? —Elizabeth

Day One
Tomo Koizumi

I will never be sure how the Tomo Koizumi beauty team managed to get model Ariel Nicholson’s long hair to gel into a sharp point for their one-woman show, but they did, and it stayed that way, all while she frolicked in larger-than-life Koizumi creations, which were made even *more* alive this year than last (which had been Koizumi’s fashion week debut), with wilder construction by way of incredible fabric appendages that moved like jellyfish legs as Nicholson danced from one look into the next. —Amalie

Hellessy

Hellessy is like Dylan’s Candy Bar for going-out tops, as evidenced from today’s rundown of delectable décolletage poofs, one-shouldered delights, torsos draped in silk, and billowing sleeves—each paired with unexpected bottoms like light-wash denim and hot pink velvet leggings, an homage to the universal truth that a good going-out top is as versatile as a Tootsie pop is interminable. —Harling

Shrimps

Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland recently admitted her distaste for digital prints and preference for patterns with a “painterly” feel, a sentiment on full display in her latest collection, which engenders the charming effect of looking simultaneously of the moment (thanks to pearly mini bags and horseshoe-emblazoned faux fur coats) and reminiscent of a different time—or rather, times plural (see: cloche hats, saloon-inspired skirts, parasols, etc.). —Harling

Mara Hoffman

For sustainability-driven Hoffman’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection, the idea of “what a woman might have worn on vacation in Greece in the 80s” was on the brain, which makes the familiar smocking, color-blocking, and voluminous silhouettes feel warmly at home anywhere, not just among white-washed walls and hee-hawing donkeys. —Amalie

Rodarte

My mom got married in 1985 at a venue that provided photo-taking opportunities not unlike those presented in Rodarte’s Spring/Summer 2020 lookbook, boasting the faces of a cast of familiar, famous characters dressed to the 11s in an array of sequins and brocade and iridescent materials layered upon ruffles and big sleeves and mermaid tails and tulle; some pants are interrupted by knee-high, sparkling boots, but to resuscitate my initial point: If only—my mom wishes (I called her, she told me)—she had worn Rodarte. —Leandra

Feature Photo via Getty Images, Photos via Vogue Runway.

The post One Sentence Recap Day 5 Dispatch: Gabriela Hearst, Eckhaus Latta & More appeared first on Man Repeller.

I Asked a Bunch of Women Over 50 About Their Sex Lives

In case you need a reminder that every person and body is wildly different, enjoy the below story, originally published in June 2018, wherein 47 women over the age of 47 weigh in on the state of their sex lives.

T

hanks to an abundance of stereotypes proliferated by popular culture, the sex lives of women above a certain age are either ignored completely or written off as “nonexistent.” Who better to chip away at that oversight than those women themselves? I put a callout on Man Repeller’s Instagram asking for women over the age of 50* to anonymously share some thoughts about sex—how they feel about it, if they have it, if they don’t have it, what they’ve learned about it, a funny story about it, how their sex lives have evolved…or something else entirely. No topic was off-limits. Read their illuminating responses below.

*I included quotes from a couple women in their late 40s who wrote in, too. 

“I am a 65-year-old woman and have been married for 38 years to the same man. Now, do we have sex a lot??? NO, but I must say when we do, it is still very good. I’m faced with the ongoing challenge of dryness (it’s ridiculous) but do my best to grease up! Sometimes I like to put on dirty movies as it helps me during foreplay. I do not want to give up on the effort it takes, because I know many friends have. If this is as good as it gets here on out, I’LL TAKE IT.”

Age: 65

“My husband takes me on his business trips. He calls me his ‘road sugar.'”

Age: 56

“I could give two shits about sex. Love, yes. Hugs, yes. Fixing shit around the house, yes.”

Age: 63

“With menopause, sex happens less often (somehow you forget about it), but I feel more confident than when I was younger. I’m in good shape and I feel sexy and attractive. I think it’s important to keep in shape and remain active. Physical activity keeps your body and senses awake.”

Age: 52

“When I was twenty-something, I was so freaked my parents would hear my now-husband and I having sex. Now in my 50s, I am so freaked my twenty-something sons will hear us having sex!”

Age: 53

“My husband and I have been together 31 years and married for 27. Sex is not a top priority with work and travel taking a first seat, but I’m not worried.”

Age: 50

“My period turned off like a faucet at age 44, and I was thrilled. What I did not realize was that with menopause would come awful, excruciating and miserable pain during sex. My whole life, I have always adored sex. I could have sex for all three meals and as a snack. But suddenly, I found myself no longer wanting sex because I did not want to hurt so badly down there. Eventually, the pain became so intense, and the sex so infrequent, that I talked to a few older friends and my therapist and finally consulted with my doctor. Apparently, his wife had had the same symptoms at my age, and he put her on hormones, the same ones he now was recommending for me. I was on the fence about taking them, but when I finally did, my man and I were back to fucking fireworks! The research continues to go back and forth on whether women should take hormones at age 50+ because of the possible scary side effects like strokes and heart attacks. But for me, a love life with great sex is worth the risk.”

Age: 49

“My husband completely understands that sex just isn’t going to happen cause this old lady is dried up and it’s painful.”

Age: 58

“I don’t tend to think about sex as much as I did when I was younger. I have sex maybe 4-10 times a year. The urge to masturbate seemed to vanish after menopause too, at least for me. But I do seek comfort and closeness from my husband daily. My need for touch hasn’t gone anywhere. I feel like we are on the same page of the issue (which really isn’t an issue!). I almost get annoyed at the constant talk of sex as if everyone should want it and that it is a vital part of every stage in life. I feel like it is very natural not to want sex as much anymore from an evolutionary point of view, given that I’m long past the point of being able to pass on my genes.”

Age: 51

“Desire has left the building.”

Age: 56

“Sex is fun! Unfortunately, it’s been too long since I’ve had it.”

Age: 55

“I have sex about five times a week with my hubby. Quickies and everyone ends up happy.”

Age: 50

“I had LOTS of sex (love-making!) when I was younger, but over the years of being married and having children (a mum at the age of 39), I’ve lost interest.”

Age: 50

“Young people tend to think they invented sex; I thought that. I am now a 51-year-old woman and my partner is a 67-year-old man. We have been together for over 25 years, and we are not averse to waking up in the middle of the night to have sex, lots of it. Age improves intimacy; it improves communication; it makes for much better sex.”

Age: 51

“I am 52 and I love sex! As I have aged, sex has gotten better. I am open and speak up about what I like and how I like it. Sex brings on pleasure and confidence and it makes you glow! Sex is a key factor in aging well and taking care of yourself.”

Age: 52

“I love sex! Thing is, I have no one to have it with, except myself.”

Age: 53

“I love sex and miss it terribly. My husband is older than me and has lost all interest. It’s a crying shame.”

Age: 56

“The least interesting thing about human relationships is sex. And it’s a piss poor metric of a healthy relationship.”

Age: 50

“When I was younger, I’d fake an orgasm to make the man feel better about himself. Sex is healthy, but not if it’s fake. After I changed my mindset, I had amazing orgasms! Sometimes, I would fall asleep after, which is okay and should be taken as a compliment by my man, which it is. Good sex means giving and taking with respect. Be honest with yourself first and foremost so you can help your lover know how to satisfy you. Relax and let yourself go!”

Age: 52

“I have it. A lot. I have a wonderful partner whom I love very much. He and I are very compatible in many ways, not just in the sack but also in terms of our values. Even though I am going through menopause, we are together through and through. I feel lucky, as this relationship has been my best sexual experience by far. We have been together seven years.”

Age: 53

“If only my husband’s lovemaking could evolve and keep up with me. We’ve been together 31 years, but I may have to trade him in for a younger model.”

Age: 53

“I wish I had more sex!”

Age: 55

“It can be fun, but maybe a bit uncomfortable and all too rare thanks to the loss of estrogen that no one tells you comes with menopause.”

Age: 58

“I’m not having it because post-menopausal sex is a nightmare. I miss it.”

Age: 57

“Sex is so much better with age and body acceptance.”

Age: 57

“At this stage…not age…in my life, I find I am more confident in my sex life. It’s nice to have a life-long partner who is equally sexual and still adventurous. Or is it because we’re both Leos?”

Age: 51

“Sex is so much better than in my 20s. I am able to orgasm, I’m not afraid to ask for what I want and I look after my body. I am finally putting myself before my kids.”

Age: 49

“Sex is a wonderful gift from nature designed to keep our bodies younger and to bring us zen.”

Age: 63

“I now have the sex I want instead of thinking how I (it) looks. My partner is thrilled AF about it.”

Age: 50

“Ideally, I would have it a lot more. ‘Old’ doesn’t mean not into sex; it just means we’re too set in our schedules…too much TV, not enough hands-on time. Get your partner off the couch and into bed. Don’t lose the romance (not the jump your bones stuff — the sweet, thoughtful stuff).”

Age: 57

“I haven’t had it in seven years and I don’t miss it at all. This is from someone who used to crave it daily.”

Age: 55

“It’s great — no stress about being pregnant and no kids at home to interrupt. My husband and I are aging together, so we both still find each other attractive, and he really knows what I like.”

Age: 59

“I have great, mind-blowing sex at 51! Maybe not every day, but every week.”

Age: 51

“During my marriage, my now-ex and I had okay sex, just regular sex, and not too often, especially at the end when I was ready to file for divorce. I didn’t date for three years, and my ex and I hadn’t had sex for three years before that, at the end of our marriage. It had been a while. Then I started dating this guy I met online, and he is amazing in bed. And it turns out, so am I. It’s sex I have always wanted to have, and I feel sexier and happier about my body than I have ever thought I would. In bed, my boyfriend and I are sultry and dirty and loving and kind. I love the sex I have now, and although I fantasized for years about having sex like this, I never thought I would and I am so into it and happy about it. He’s 50, and I’m 45.”

Age: 45

“Done with it.”

Age: 51

“It’s like the Sahara down there. Natural, organic lubes are key. Anything with chemicals, especially ones that are supposed to warm you up, feel like battery acid to me.”

Age: 63

“I have a voracious, selfish appetite for sex. My husband of 33 years is the same way. The frequency has slowed down a little, but it is amazing when it happens.”

Age: 54

“I’ve been with the same partner for 30 years and our sex life is better than EVER! Hormone replacement is the bomb! We are more relaxed and creative and have more fun!”

Age: 53

“It was fun while it lasted.”

Age: 57

“Sex can be the best of times and the worst of times. It is a crapshoot. You take a risk and sometimes you hit the jackpot. Sometimes you walk away with nothing. If it weren’t for the occasional jackpot, I’m not sure why we would keep doing it. It takes a partner with a heart and mind and soul as big as yours to make it worth the effort, especially as you get older and a few things, including sex, get more challenging. The emotional interplay is the biggest payoff.”

Age: 62

“Sex is wonderful in your fifties as long as you’re having it with someone who’s not. Thank you, younger men who understand that ‘sexy’ is ageless.”

Age: 53

“The strong desire and need for sex faded for me. It’s still enjoyable, I just don’t have it as frequently. Keeping the intimacy alive with your partner is vitally important. It helps you stay connected. You must make the effort!”

Age: 54

“I still want to cook, but it takes me longer to heat up. I have little tolerance for bad sex; it’s just not worth it. But make no mistake, if it’s good, I want it. I always say the oven might be broken, but the bakery is still open for business!”

Age: 58

“I’ve never enjoyed sex as much as I do now. I have an older lover. I didn’t think lovemaking could be this pleasurable, and it keeps getting better. I’ve learned to let go of all my inhibitions and be adventurous, and he keeps pushing the boundaries. I’ve never felt so beautiful and loved as I do now. This is the best time of my life.”

Age: 50

“At this point in my life, I prefer a back scratch, foot rub or cuddle to sex. Sex is still at the top of my husband’s list. We haven’t specifically talked about our different levels of interest in sex, but it is simply apparent. We each give the other what he/she wants, so it works.”

Age: 59

“I’m glad my response is anonymous, not for my sake but for the sake of my four sons (all in their late twenties/early thirties). Few children want to acknowledge their parents as sexual beings, let alone picture their parents as sexually active beings, but we were and we ARE. Earmuffs on, kiddos…we had and still have passionate sex and LOVE it just as much as you do! My hope for my sons and all young adults when choosing a life partner is that their choice is based equally on sexual chemistry and friendship. It can be challenging to find both. Don’t settle. You’re gonna need both! Because there are inevitable sexual seasons in a long-lasting partnership, you and your partner need to be life friends/teammates to brave these seasons and flourish, especially during sexual off-seasons.

These are the “sexual seasons,” according to our experience: YOUNG AND IN LOVE — have sex whenever and wherever you want. CAREER DEVELOPMENT — have sex when time permits and neither of you is completely exhausted from work. IN THE ZONE — balanced work life and sex life. CHILDREN — have sex in your sleep (baby); have limited, spontaneous sex (toddler); have hope-they-don’t-hear-us sex while toggling between nurturer, career woman and sex goddess (grade schooler); have we-can’t-let-them-hear-us sex when and if career, meals, laundry, science projects, uber driver duties to and from and attending activities, etc., doesn’t leave you a walking zombie (teen); have “young and in love” sex again when kids aren’t home from college (young adult); have “young and in love sex” when the menopausal hormone rollercoaster doesn’t rob you of your libido (empty nest).

And there you have it, the sexual seasons of one 55-year-old woman’s life. Maintaining sexual vibrancy throughout life is hard. Choosing the right partner is critical (I chose well). My partner and I are still very much sexual beings, as the season allows, and we still love sex! It’s okay now, kiddos…earmuffs off.”

Age: 55

“I never enjoyed sex fully until after I had my children. Something about creating humans and birthing them made me realize just how amazing my body is and how lucky anyone is who gets to enjoy it too. Have good sex and stop worrying about your tummy rolls.”

Age: 64

Feature Graphic by Dasha Faires.

The post I Asked a Bunch of Women Over 50 About Their Sex Lives appeared first on Man Repeller.