Michael Powell's Blog, page 71
October 28, 2014
Scuba Diving in the Bay of Bones
Lake Ohrid has become a popular destination with scuba divers thanks to both the stunning clarity of its water, and its history: along with Titicaca in South America and Baikal in Russia, it’s among the very oldest lakes in the world. We strapped on tanks and dove in with the guys at Amfora Diving Center to visit the Bay of Bones: an underwater archaeological site from the Bronze Age.
At a maximum depth of twelve meters, the Bay of Bones is not just the most interesting, but also the easiest d...
The Hike from Vevčani to Gorna Belica
Departing from the small park in which we found Vevčani’s natural springs, a path of eight kilometers take you through the hills, eventually leading to Gorna Belica. It’s a non-stop ascent; strenuous, but worth the effort once you arrive in this beautiful mountain village.
The path begins in a thick forest which is kept abundantly watered by small rivers running down the hill. The trees eventually taper out, and the path continues along a dusty trail punctuated by gnarled, dried-out trees. And...
Honorary Citizens of the Vevčani Republic
Independence was all the rage during the swift, painful breakup of Yugoslavia. But it’s hard to imagine that the citizens of the village of Vevčani weren’t just having a laugh, when they held a referendum to establish their own country. The Vevčani Republic has never been recognized by anyone, but after buying passports in the gift shop, I suppose we’re honorary citizens.
The village of Vevčani is found about an hour northwest of Ohrid, in the foothills of the Jablanica Mountains. A large gate...
October 27, 2014
Weddings, Trout and Roman Roads in Radožda
Found on the western coast of Lake Ohrid, not far from the border with Albania, is the town of Radožda. On a weekday in the winter, this must be a peaceful, quiet place. But we were visiting on a weekend toward the end of summer, when “quiet” was the last thing on Radožda’s mind.
We started our exploration of Radožda by climbing a steep flight of steps to the cave church of the Archangel Michael. The church is normally locked, but you can ask for the key at Dva Biseri, a popular lakeside resta...
Paragliding Over Lake Ohrid
Frequently visible in the skies above Lake Ohrid are paragliders who have jumped from the mountains of the Galičica National Park. It’s an activity we’ve always wanted to try… and why not in Macedonia? We gave the guys at Vertigo Paragliding Club a ring and, before long, were bouncing up the mountain in a jeep, nerves beginning to tickle our stomachs. This was a good idea, right?
I’m not going to lie: paragliding was more terrifying than I was expecting it to be. Long ago, I tried parachuting,...
The Waters of Sveti Naum
While in Ohrid, an excursion to Sveti Naum should be considered essential, not so much for the monastery as for the natural area it inhabits. At the south side of the lake, you can take a boat trip to see natural springs bubbling up from the underground into a lagoon of startling clarity.
Lake Ohrid is fed entirely by the springs of Sveti Naum. A strong river of fresh, clear water flows constantly into the lake, providing Ohrid its famous turquoise tint. The water originates from Lake Prespa,...
October 25, 2014
Lake Prespa’s Forgotten Hotel Evropa
Today, Lake Prespa is a place of almost perplexing tranquility. Macedonia’s second-largest lake sees nothing of the tourism that reaches the shores of nearby Lake Ohrid. But it hasn’t always been so neglected. The abandoned Hotel Evropa, on the western shore, is proof that Prespa was once a major tourist destination.
The Hotel Evropa hearkens from the same era as the nearby Lakeview Hotel, where we were spending our nights in Prespa. But unlike the Lakeview, which has resumed welcoming guests,...
Golem Grad, Better Known as Snake Island
The only island in Macedonia is completely uninhabited… at least by humans. Found in the south of Lake Prespa, near the Albanian border, Golem Grad is most frequently referred to as “Snake Island”.
Our excursion to Snake Island did not get off to a promising start. The boats which take tourists out are rickety old things, and even the slightest waves upon the lake will render the journey impossible. We had planned on leaving from the village of Stenje, but the boatman shivered as he looked out...
October 24, 2014
From Lake Ohrid to Prespa
A scenic drive through the Galičica National Park connects Macedonia’s two largest lakes, Ohrid and Prespa. And for those willing to hike, it’s possible to see both lakes from one incredible mountaintop view.
The drive between the two lakes should take about 45 minutes, but very few people complete it so quickly. The views are just too nice, especially of Lake Ohrid to the west, and the road has a number of spots to turn off. Because this is a national park, there’s an entry fee, but the cost...
A Hike in the Pelister National Park
We dedicated one of the days we spent on Lake Prespa to the nearby Pelister National Park. Extending roughly from Prespa to Bitola, and down to the border with Greece, this park was established in 1948 to protect 170 square kilometers of southern Macedonia’s pristine mountain land.
For the intrepid, a nearly endless number of possible hikes crisscross the park, leading to glacial lakes and the summit of Baba Mountain. But we wanted to keep the day simple, and were hoping for a hike of less tha...
