Michael Powell's Blog, page 69
November 8, 2014
Prijatno, Macedonia!
Another 91 days have come to an end, and this time we’re saying farewell to one of the most underrated destinations we’ve ever visited: Macedonia. The decision to spend three months in this relatively unknown corner of the Balkans was one that elicited confusion from our friends and family. But 91 days later, as we packed our bags and prepared for our departure, we knew that the choice had been inspired.
Immediately after arriving, we felt comfortable in our new hometown of Skopje. The capital...
Pictures from Berovo
In the far east of Macedonia, Berovo is famed for the natural beauty of the land which surrounds it. We arrived in the little town with high expectations, but also with a touch of melancholy. This was going to be our final excursion in Macedonia.
Immediately upon arriving, we met Mihailo. The father of a friend, he had offered to be our guide to Berovo. Mihailo was born and raised in Skopje, but his family is originally from the region. Fed up with the big city, he’d recently moved to the vill...
The Klepalo Sheep Farm
If you’re looking for an authentic, middle-of-nowhere, back-to-nature, where-the-hell-am-I, give-me-a-break-you-people-don’t-actually-live-like-this, this-must-be-a-movie-set kind of experience, then seek out the Klepalo Sheep Farm, near Berovo. I’m still not sure the folks who welcomed us weren’t actors.
The farm is found at the top of a hill, at the end of a rough, muddy road which our little rental car was unable to negotiate. So we parked and walked up… and with every step, we went back on...
November 7, 2014
The Ruins Around Kočani
Perhaps it was because of the 91 days we’d just spent racing around Tokyo, or perhaps it was the oppressive heat of summer, but we arrived in Macedonia feeling lazy. Our first two months were spent at a very relaxed pace, exploring Skopje and taking leisurely day trips to places like Ohrid and Bitola. Very nice, but it meant that we’d have to lace up our running shoes for the final few weeks. Gevgelija and Dojran, Kumanovo and Kratovo, Prespa and Pelister, Vevanči and Radožda, Demir Kapija an...
November 6, 2014
Our Favorite Macedonian Foods
It’s possible that, years from now, when we’re reminiscing on our time in Macedonia, that it won’t be the ancient ruins, the nature, or the villages which makes us most nostalgic. It will be the food. We enjoyed almost every meal we had, and here are some of our favorites.
Selsko Meso
With a name that translates literally as “village meat”, Selsko Meso is the kind of dish which is never quite the same at any two restaurants. Meat, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, carrots, and whatever other vegetabl...
Mavrovo’s Monastery of St. John the Baptist
On our way out of the Mavrovo National Park, heading back to Skopje, we made one last pit stop at Sv Jovan Bigorski, or the Monastery of Saint John the Baptist. Originally constructed in the 11th century, this church set high in the hills is one of the most popular in all Macedonia.
We were surprised by the amount of activity going on around the grounds of Sv Jovan Bigorski. This wasn’t so much a quiet place of reflection, but more like a work zone. The church was heavily damaged by an electri...
The Fresh Mountain Air of Lazaropole
After leaving Gari, we didn’t have far to go before the next picturesque Macedonian mountain village: Lazaropole. Although it’s one of the highest towns in the Balkans, at 1350 meters above sea level, Lazaropole lays in a shallow valley, and has a more mild climate than one might expect.
Lazaropole is found within the southern part of the Mavrovo National Park, and reaching it requires a long, uphill drive. The forest scenery and the views are gorgeous, but as we ascended, I was wondering why...
November 5, 2014
Gari and the Deer Leap Bridge
After hiking to the Duf Waterfall, we drove along the southern border of the Mavrovo National Park, headed to the tiny village of Gari. Along the way, we would pause at the ancient stone Deer Leap Bridge.
When a bridge has a name like “Deer Leap”, you might suspect that there’s some sort of legend behind it. In this case, my friend, you would be correct. The story is that long ago, an Ottoman lord hunting in Mavrovo had shot an arrow int the flank of a deer, but the animal would not go down. I...
November 4, 2014
A Hike from Janče to Galičnik
After staying the night at Lake Mavrovo, we got on the road as early as possible, arriving at Janče’s Hotel Tutto by 8am. There was a reason for our haste; the weather reports called for rain by noon, and we were planning on hiking to Galičnik and back.
In the morning, the weather couldn’t have been more lovely, so we didn’t delay. Not even bothering to check into the hotel, we walked straight from parking lot into the hills. The trail was well-marked, presenting no orientation problems, and w...
The Duf Waterfall Near Rostuše
After parking our car in the center of Rostuše, a small village within the bounds of the Mavrovo National Park, we set off to find the Duf Waterfall. This was an easy hike of about forty minutes, which follows a well-marked trail from the main road.
The hike begins unspectacularly, leading behind the houses of Rostuše. But after arriving at the foot of a long ravine, it improves. The trail continues through the canyon, alongside the Rostuše River, which it occasionally crosses with foot bridge...
