Michael Powell's Blog, page 65
May 21, 2015
A Hike Around Xàtiva
Having seen the city’s castle and most of its other principal sights on our first day in Xàtiva, we awoke early on our second day for an excellent 14-kilometer hike. We’d be following PRV-78, a circular path that leads along the gorgeous Albaida River, past an ancient aqueduct and caves, and through groves of orange trees, before heading back into town.
The hike, described in Esteban Cuellar’s Caminando por la Comunidad Valenciana #3, begins at the beautiful Jardín del Beso, on the eastern e...
Other Sights of Xàtiva
Let’s say you’ve visited Xàtiva Castle. Amazing, but it sure is exhausting. The hike up that hill? The size of the place? I bet you’re happy to be done! But don’t relax quite yet, because you’re not going to like what I’ve got to tell you. The castle might be the highlight, but so far you’ve only seen a fraction of what Xàtiva has to offer. Take a quick siesta, have a cup of coffee, bang out a line of coke, whatever you need to do: you’ve still got a long day ahead of you.
The first two time...
May 18, 2015
Day of the Virgen de los Desamparados
On the second Sunday of May, Valencia celebrates its patroness, the Virgen de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Forsaken), with a lethargic and low-key event. Subdued worshipers calmly line the Plaza de la Virgen, offering whispered prayers and privately reflecting on their faith as their beloved icon passes by. (Are you detecting any sarcasm, here? Because I’m laying it on pretty thick.)
In truth, there is nothing quiet nor calm about the morning procession of the Virgen de los Desamparados...
May 13, 2015
The Castle of Xàtiva
One of the most rewarding excursions you can make from Valencia is to Xàtiva, which is about an hour south by train. We spent two days exploring the town’s quiet streets, checking out its historic buildings and monuments, and hiking into the surrounding hills. But the first thing we did was climb up to the castle which dominates the city from on high.
Spread out along the top of a hill and visible from miles away, the Castillo de Xàtiva impresses first and foremost with its size. For a defen...
May 11, 2015
Pictures from the Malvarossa Kite Festival
Valencians sure love their festivals. This might be a generally Spanish trait, rather than strictly Valencian, but once March rolls around, there’s another festival of some sort every weekend in this city. There’s Fallas, wine and tapas festivals, Semana Santa, and various other religious festivals honoring a never-ending string of saints… and also, there’s a kite festival, down at the beach.
2015 marked the eighteenth edition of the Festival Internacional del Viento (International Festival...
May 9, 2015
The Streets of Ruzafa
Southeast of the historic center, Ruzafa has long been known as Valencia’s multi-cultural mixing pot. And in recent years, it has indisputably become the city’s hippest neighborhood, with an eclectic and ever-changing variety of popular clubs, retro bars, trendy restaurants, vintage shops and offbeat bookstores.
Years ago, when we were looking for apartments in Valencia, we asked a real estate agent about Ruzafa. This was an older, very proper Spanish lady, of a completely different generati...
May 4, 2015
A Hike in the Barranco del Regajo
Sometimes, we need to remind ourselves that Valencia is more than just a big city. The province is also home to quiet forests, deep ravines and rugged mountain chains, just waiting to be explored. We spent one April morning walking along the Regajo River, near the western border with Cuenca, in an effort to satisfy our intermittent desire to connect with nature.
(This walk is described in “Caminando por la Comunidad Valenciana,” the fourth in a popular series of Valencian hiking books by Est...
May 3, 2015
The Almudín and the Baños del Almirante
Sometimes it’s hard to remember Valencia’s age, since many of its oldest elements have been incorporated seamlessly into the modern city. The Baños del Almirante and the Alumdín, for example, blend in so well that it’s easy to forget they’re there, even though they’re both 700 years old.
Entrance to the Baños del Almirante
Although the Baños del Almirante are clearly in the Muslim style, they were built in 1313, 75 years after King James I of Aragon had claimed the city for Christianity. That...
May 1, 2015
After One Month in Valencia
“After One Month…” is a series in which we normally share first impressions of our new homes. But we know Valencia very well, and our rose-tinted first impressions have long since matured into gnarled, old certainties. But even after years of calling this city home, we love it more than ever. And that should speak volumes.
Most Memorable
Mike: No doubt in my mind. La Cremà, the fiery culmination of Fallas, is the most unforgettable experience Valencia has to offer.
Jürgen: Just after moving...
April 28, 2015
The Plaza del Patriarca
Decorated with a symmetrical grid of orange trees, the Plaza del Patriarca is home to a couple of Valencia’s most historic buildings: the Real Colegio Seminario del Corpus Christi and La Nau, both of which date from the 15th century.
We lived adjacent to the Plaza del Patriarca in 2008, and a lot of our original Valencian memories were made here, so visiting feels like returning home. These orange trees? Our dog used to sniff on each, before choosing one to pee on. That bar over there with t...
