Michael Powell's Blog, page 64
June 30, 2015
La Lonja de la Seda
Directly across from the Mercado Central, La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) is Valencia’s most historic building, and its only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built between 1482 and 1548 at the height of Valencia’s Golden Age, the Lonja is like a church devoted to the god of commerce.
At the end of the 15th century, Valencia was the extremely wealthy capital of its own kingdom, and the most important city on the Mediterranean Sea. So when the decision was made to build a new exchange hall, it...
June 27, 2015
Corpus Christi in Valencia
With a history reaching back to 1263, Corpus Christi is perhaps Valencia’s oldest festival, and remains one of its most popular. Occurring 60 days after Easter, the festival is ostensibly held in honor of the Eucharist, but really just provides yet another excuse for Valencians to get out on the street and have a good time.
Although the festival Corpus Christi officially stretches out over four days, all of the main activities occur on Sunday. Starting things off is the Cabalgata del Convite...
June 26, 2015
The MuVIM and the Parque del Hospital
The MuVIM, or Museu Valencià de la Il·lustració i la Modernitat, can be found in the park where the city’s very first public hospital was built, in the 14th century. Today, the former hospital has been converted into the municipal library.
As its name suggests, the MuVIM focuses on modern illustration. It’s a strange museum, with a disorienting layout — it takes some time to find the ticket counter, and even longer to locate any of the art. To reach the “Alfons Roig” Room, for instance, you...
June 23, 2015
Getting Around Valencia
From train and plane, to bus and bike, there are a number of ways to get to Valencia, and travel around once here. Here’s a quick rundown of what you need to know about transportation in Spain’s third-biggest city.
Getting To Valencia
By Plane
Valencia’s airport is in Manises, about ten kilometers outside the city center. It’s connected by metro, but if you have a lot of luggage, a taxi isn’t too expensive, at about 20 into the city center. For a city of its size, Valencia’s airport is much...
June 21, 2015
The Sierra Calderona and the Mirador de Garbi
Valencia is a relatively flat city, but it’s completely surrounded by mountain ranges. The closest is the Sierra Calderona, just an hour’s drive northwest. We spent a day hiking here, and ended up at the Mirador de Garbi, a natural rocky outcrop with astounding views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Our day started at the Monastery de Porta Coeli, an active house of Carthusian monks, founded in 1274. Carthusians live as hermits, remaining strictly within their monastery at all times. Visitors are n...
June 20, 2015
L’Oceanogràfic – Europe’s Biggest Aquarium
L’Oceanogràfic opened its doors in 2003, and was an immediate hit. At 27, the price of entrance isn’t cheap, but you could easily spend all day here. And you’ll need to, if you plan on seeing everything. This is the largest oceanarium in Europe, with sections dedicated to the Red Sea, the Arctic, the Mediterranean, the coral reefs, mangrove forests, tropical waters and the oceans. There’s an auditorium, a dolphinarium, a spherical bird sanctuary and multiple restaurants. Grumble about the tic...
June 4, 2015
The IVAM – Valencia’s Institute of Modern Art
When the Institut Valencià d’Art Modern opened its doors in 1989, it was Spain’s first museum dedicated to modern art. Found on the western corner of the old town, bordering the Turia riverbed, it’s still easily Valencia’s most popular museum, welcoming over a million visitors every year.
I’ve lost track of the number of times we’ve been to the IVAM. The program changes frequently, and nearly every new exhibition is good enough to warrant another visit. During our most recent visit, we saw a...
June 1, 2015
The Mercado Central
With hundreds of stalls selling fruits, veggies and meats, Valencia’s Mercado Central is among the largest fresh food markets in Europe. And although it has one of the city’s principal tourist attractions, it’s remained popular among locals as well, many of whom do their everyday shopping here.
The market dates from 1918, and while climbing the stairs to its main entrance, it’s nearly impossible not to stop and admire the facade. Ceramic tiles are set above the arches, framing a massive circ...
May 30, 2015
The Turia Riverbed Park
Once upon a time, not actually all that long ago, Valencia’s historic center was bordered to the north by the Turia River. Although it was normally a benevolent presence, the Turia was given to sporadic fits of rage. And after a particularly deadly flood in 1957, Valencia decided to remove the threat once and for all.
After a season of unusually heavy rains, the Turia overflowed its banks on the 13th and 14th of October, 1956, flooding the city. In some neighborhoods, the waters reached heig...
May 24, 2015
Moros y Cristianos in Alcoy
For three days in late April, everything comes to a stop in Alcoy, as the city celebrates its famous festival of Moros y Cristianos. Local groups parade around the city center in a series of exuberant and colorful processions which last for three days, from Saturday morning to Monday. We visited on the first day of the festival, in order to see the entrance of both the Christians and the Moors.
I was initially uneasy about the concept of a “Moors and Christians” festival. In 1492, after the...
