Michael Powell's Blog, page 74

The Bitola Museum and Atatürk

Before leading the nation of Turkey into the modern day, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk attended military high school in Bitola, Macedonia. Today, that educational institute has been converted into the Bitola Museum, a section of which celebrates Atatürk and his legacy.

The museum takes visitors on a chronological journey through the region’s history, starting with ancient findings like Neolithic sculptures of animal gods, Bronze Age helmets, and mosaics from Heraklea Lyncestis. Moving closer to the pr...

Bitola – Macedonia’s Second City

Bitola may lag behind Skopje in terms of population and influence, but with its neoclassical architecture, Turkish quarter, churches and ancient mosques, it definitely competes in terms of style. We spent a few days exploring both the city and its surroundings.

Only fifteen miles from the Greek border, Bitola’s population of 80,000 makes it the second-largest city in Macedonia. The name derives from an old Slavic word meaning “monastery”; in fact, during the 500 years of Ottoman rule, the city...

The Museum of Macedonia in Skopje

Situated in Skopje’s Old Bazaar near the Kale Fortress, the Museum of Macedonia is one of the country’s oldest and largest museums. Originally established in 1924, the museum has traditionally covered three separate disciplines: archaeology, ethnology and history.

We took one look at the building, and almost decided to cancel our visit. The place is massive, and looks extremely old… and not the good kind of “old”, more destitute than dignified. Windows are shattered, there are hardly any signs...

Visiting the Skopsko Brewery

Since its establishment in 1924, the Skopsko Brewing Company has been providing Macedonia with its favorite beer. We had the opportunity to tour the brewery and learn a little about the country’s beer production.

Macedonia is not exactly a nation of beer drinkers. We noticed this immediately; in restaurants, more people prefer sipping rakija or wine. And among young people, the beverages of choice seem to be non-alcoholic; even within in bars at night. Of course, beer-drinking is not exactly a...

Bansko’s Ancient and Modern Baths

A short taxi ride brought us from Strumica to Bansko, a village which has long been known for its thermal mountain hot springs. After arriving, we visited the ruins of an ancient Roman bathhouse, before diving into a more modern pool.

For time immemorial, the naturally heated waters which flow from the springs of Bansko have been prized for their therapeutic properties. The Romans established a large bathhouse here, the remains of which can still be seen near the Hotel Tsar Samoil.

According to...

Hiking to the Monasteries of Matka

Over the course of one very long day at Matka Canyon, we tackled two hikes. The first, a climb to Sveti Nikola, we can heartily recommend to anyone. But the second, to Sveti Nedela on the opposite side of the canyon, is an ordeal we’d propose only to those whom we most hate. Really: just those few people who we wouldn’t mind seeing dead. (If one day you meet us, and we tell you about this “awesome” hike to Sveti Nedela, you should probably be a little scared.)

The hike to Sv Nikola is wonderfu...

The Skopje City Zoo

Found close to the city center, in Gradski Park, the Skopje City Zoo has long suffered from a reputation as one of the most depressing and inhumane in Europe. But the last few years have seen a sizable investment from the city, with the goal of bringing the zoo up to modern standards. But have things improved?

For most of its history, the Skopje Zoo only made headlines of the negative sort. The only elephant it ever hosted died soon after its arrival. Visitors were shocked by the cement cages...

Hiking from Vodoča’s Monastery to the Lake

The village of Vodoča is located a few kilometers outside of Strumica. We visited its monastery before walking along the river up to Lake Vodoča for a midday swim. From here, our hike back into Strumica was long but diverting. Along the way, we would stop for lunch at a hilltop restaurant and see the remains of a medieval fortress.

Vodoča is the kind of village where, just as you’ve convinced yourself that it’s completely abandoned, around the corner comes a family riding in a mule cart. Looki...

Strumica’s Church of the Fifteen Holy Martyrs

Strumica is a nice city, but not one with a huge range of touristic sights. We spent our first day scouring the streets for things to see and do, but everything was closed. Everything except for one lonely church hidden in Strumica’s Turkish quarters: the Sveti Petnaeset Tiveriopolski Sveštenomačnici, or Church of the Fifteen Holy Martyrs.

During the Roman reign of Macedonia, Strumica was known as Tiveriopolis. Much to the chagrin of the Empire, Christianity was spreading like wildfire across...

Two Sides of Strumica

A population of around 50,000 qualifies Strumica as the largest city in southeastern Macedonia. We spent a couple days here, and got to know its two distinct sides: nearly comatose during the day, Strumica comes alive at night.

Strumica is situated along the foot of the Belisica Mountains, providing the town with a gently sloping layout. The town park and central plaza are at the bottom of the hill, where the land begins to flatten out into the fertile valley that provides Macedonia which much...