Marc Spagnuolo's Blog, page 46

Hide Yo Weed! – Friday Live!

Today we discuss the Incra 5000, HVLP Turbines, reaction wood, and many other topics.

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Rasp Starter Set – Friday Live!

On today’s show we discuss rasps and which ones are good for a beginner set. Of course we also have the usual Q&A..

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Planing VS Sanding

Any hand tool enthusiast will tell you, hand planes produce a better surface with more clarity even after finishing. But is that true? I tend to use scrapers and planes as the last step prior to finish mostly because it saves on sandpaper and creates less dust. If the surface actually looks better after finishing too, then using these tools as a final step before finishing is a no-brainer!

Recently, I was working on some beautiful figured walnut for my Jewelry Box and after passing the boards through the drum sander, the beautiful figure was dull and muddy. To remedy that, I gave each board a few passes with Low Angle Jack Plane. Like magic, the grain popped back to life! That prompted me to do a little experiment to not only reaffirm what I already believed to be true, but also give my readers/viewers some data points they might be able to use in their own shops. While I was at it, I also included a test with a card scraper.

This is yet another argument for the concept of Hybrid Woodworking, something I cover extensively in my book. The main idea being that I like to use power tools for the grunt work and hand tools for the finesse work.

The Tests

One book-matched set of boards was scraped and sanded. A second set of book-matched boards planed and sanded. Each board was then finished with Osmo PolyX (oil-based varnish) on one side. The other side was treated with Osmo and then coated with spray lacquer to build a film.

The board on the left was sanded to 220 grit. The board on the right was planed. My interpretation is that the planed board does show more clarity and contrast. The darks are darker, the lights are lighter, and the figured strip pattern is more striking.

The lacquered version of those same boards shows the same thing as the oil finish alone, only with greater intensity and contrast.

The board on the left was sanded to 220 grit. The board on the right was scraped. My interpretation in the video was that the difference was minimal. The splotch on the bottom left of the scraped board was definitely darker, but I mostly attributed that to a composition difference in the wood itself. Upon further review of the photos and video, I’d like to change my interpretation. I actually DO see a significant difference between these boards now. The scraped board has slightly more contrast, but more importantly it seems to have a good deal more clarity and iridescence.

The lacquered version of these two boards further drives home my new interpretation. Again, the scraped board exhibits more iridescence and contrast between the light and dark stripes and patterns.

After the video was finished, I decided to add one more data point by taking the sanded board from the first set above and planing it. This would definitively rule out the possibility that the composition of the wood contributed to the differences in contrast and clarity.

So once again, here’s a look at a sanded board on the left and a planed board on the right. Differences should be obvious at this point.

The board on the left was previously sanded. I removed all finish and all traces of sanding by hand planing the surface down to bare wood and re-applied finish. As you can see, the contrast and clarity is now roughly the same as the original planed board.

Final Conclusion

Tests like this are by no means totally conclusive and only serve as small set of data points in a sea of potential variables. But hey, I do what I can. Based on what I see here, I would say it’s definitely worth it to get into planing and scraping. Not only do they make the surface ultimately look better, they can save time and money and they decrease the amount of dust you put into your shop environment. That’s a win-win-win!

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Japanese Chisels – Friday Live!

Today we’re talking about the properties of Japanese chisels and how they compare to their Western counterparts. We’ll also have the usual Q&A.

0:15 – WWFC Update

1:30 – Happy Veterans Day

3:16 – New aprons now available for pre-order

4:54 – G&G Adirondak Chair on sale this weekend

5:03 – Arbortech Ball Gouge

6:16 – TWWG Jewelry Box update

7:43 – Are there any special storage considerations to take for glues in cold temperatures?

10:25 – Why am I getting uneven amounts of snipe on either side of my planer?

12:03 – How did your Powermatic sponsorship come about?

13:29 – Who are your favorite YouTubers?

17:37 – How do you fill grain? I’ve tried a few things but want your opinion.

19:40 – How should I finish the inside of a cedar chest?

20:50 – How loud are your turbine HVLP units?

22:45 – Does the hollow grind of a Japanese chisel require a new learning curve?

26:59 – How do I fix a miter joint that isn’t exactly 45 degrees?

28:43 – How would you determine the color of epoxy to fill voids with?

30:42 – Do I need to seal the endgrain on 45 degree joints for glue if I’m using dominoes?

32:58 – What’s the big difference between a cyclone and a two canister system for performance?

34:04 – Marc might maybe possibly go to Australia.

35:13 – New Patreon supporters!

35:17 – What are some good items to build for an auction?

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Shoulder Plane Magic? – Friday Live!

This week we discuss the magic of the shoulder plane, as well as a bunch of Q&A.

0:00 – WW Fighting Cancer is done!
2:21 – Planer Brackets
4:43 – New Patreon supporters
5:46 – Is there a “woodworking Bible” you recommend for furniture building? Tuanton’s Illustrated Guide to Joinery – Hybrid Woodworking
8:50 – How can I finesse a mortise and tenon joint without a shoulder plane?
11:02 – Why do I never see you getting tearout with your shoulder plane?
14:10 – What’s a good height for a table saw/workbench?
16:23 – What do you recommend for an assembly table surface?
18:29 – Which episode of Woodworks is your favorite?
21:55 – When building fine furniture is it okay to mix drawer slides?
23:30 – Why do I seem to be getting tearout when I’m planing African Mahogany?
26:00 – What’s in your coffee?
27:10 – What’s the deal with hide glue?
28:52 – Do you have a recommendation for a starter set of lathe chisels?
34:22 – What considerations should be made when choosing a wood species for a project?
37:11 – Are you excited for Blizzcon?
38:35 – Is it better to buy a good plunge saw and a cheap table saw or vice versa?
41:35 – How do you sharpen the toothed and scraper blade on the LN Low Angle Jack?
43:35 – WWFC Frame builder bonus prize
45:18 – Can the jewelry box incorporate a musical mechanism? Jewelry Box Project
47:44 – How do you balance shop time vs family time?
50:44 – Is it possible to be turning too slow on the lathe?
51:22 – Any inside info on new apparel in the TWWStore?
53:49 – Can I put oil based poly on top of an oil poly blend?
55:08 – How much time do I have to buy a WWFC shirt or coin?

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Router Plane Magic? – Friday Live!

This week we discuss the magic of the shoulder plane, as well as a bunch of Q&A.

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Cup O’ Finish – Friday Live!

Today I talk about some finish samples I made up as well as many other topics from the chat room. Support the show on Patreon!

1:40 – Greene and Greene blanket chest on sale this weekend only
2:19 – Marc and Nicole had an Anniversary
3:40 – Finish Rundown
8:52 – Can I put two drawers under the blanket chest?
9:30 – Marc’s chocolate milk of choice.
10:33 – Why are my dowels shearing off when I drive them into my breadboards?
12:27 – If you weren’t in the business of content creation, how would that change how you approach projects?
14:14 – If there were no price difference between the JDS MultiRouter and Festool Domino, which would you choose?
15:10 – Woodworkers Fighting Cancer – Is there a resin that wouldn’t ruin small flowers?
16:29 – How do I combat the small layer of dust that eventually builds up on shop surfaces?
18:20 – Is the gaming table build good for a beginner?
19:35 – What’s the deal with skip planing & how can I get my stock as flat as possible?
21:57 – Do you recommend getting both types of respirator or just go with one?
23:35 – How do I improve my skill with my shoulder planes?
25:50 – Should I apply a coat of BLO before spraying a waterborne finish to keep the oil finished look?
28:00 – How do you set up your router bits for the perfect cut?
31:24 – If you had to choose all handtools or power tools what would you choose?
32:10 – Have you ever considered teaching a class in Seattle?
33:40 – Do you have any tips for finishing ebony?
35:20 – Festool Sponsorship? – What Happened With Festool?
38:45 – Will there be a Holiday Gift Guide update this year?
42:58 – What type of spokeshave do you use most?
44:00 – New Patreon Supporters

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Clean & Maintain Your Respirator

I’m a big proponent of wearing a respirator in the shop. Dust collection systems are never perfect so it’s important to protect our lungs whenever it’s feasible. There are lots of respirators on the market but I have always used 3M. There are two common models I usually see: the 7500 Series and the 6500QL Series. The only difference I can discern between the two (other than the fact that they have different valves) is the fact that the 6500QL Series has a quick release latch that allows you to drop the mask for a quick conversation or a sip of coffee without completely removing the device. As a result, the 6500QL Series is my preferred model. Both models accept the same filters and cartridges. Incidentally, if you’re having trouble deciding what size to buy, I can give you one data point by letting you know I wear a Large.

There are three things you need to do to keep your respirator in tip-top shape.

Replace the Filters

How often you replace your filters really depends on usage. Mine are replaced roughly every six months or when I begin smelling things I’m not supposed to smell, such as finish fumes or dust odor. I’m not sure how much it helps, but I often keep my organic vapor cartridges in a ziplock bag between uses. I guess I’m hoping that keeps the activated charcoal fresh for a longer period of time.

Below are some helpful links to replacement filters. Keep in mind, when you buy the mask you can usually but it in a kit that comes with the organic filters and the particulate pre-filter that goes in front of it.

2097 P100 Particular Filters – I use these for dust and light-duty finishing activities
Organic Vapor Cartridges – I use these for heavy finishing tasks such as HVLP finishing
P95 Particulate Pre-Filter – I use these on the outside of my organic vapor cartridges

Clean the Mask

The inside of your mask can get pretty gross. The mask takes on oil from your skin and is constantly exposed to hot moist breath. When you’re not using the mask, it collects airborne dust as well. I recommend washing your mask and valves at least once a month using warm soapy water. I like to use a soft bottle brush (leftover from my baby bottle-washing days) to get into all of the nooks and crannies.

Replace the Valves

Many folks can go many years before having to replace valves. I was actually surprised to see how bad mine were. I’m not so worried about the discoloration as I am about the wavy shape. Because that mask spent most of its life in the hot dry Arizona desert, I’m guessing that’s the reason it deformed so badly. Dry air, heat, and rubber usually don’t get along. Now that I’ve replaced the valves, it should be interesting to see if they last any longer in Denver. If you need 3M replacement valves check out the links below. But make sure you shop around. They can be tricky to find individually and most times they’re sold in bulk.

3M 7500 Exhalation Valve #7583 – Case of 10 – Individual
3M 7500 Inhalation Valves #7582 – Case of 10
3m 6500 Exhalation Valve #6583 – Case of 10
3M 6500 Inhalation Valves #6893 – Pack of 40– Individual

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Gloss Under Matte – Friday Live!

Today we’ll discuss why we put gloss under matte, my sanding routine, scaling down projects, and many more topics in the Q&A.

0:12 – Morris chair sale
0:56 – Marc’s thoughts on pickles
4:03 – Marc is speaking at Rockler in Denver
4:49 – What are the “safe” finishes you’ll be using?
6:13 – What do you do if you find out something isn’t square halfway through your project?
9:07 – Why do you put down gloss finish before matte?
11:18 – Is there anything specific I should look out for when scaling down a project?
12:16 – If you could be any fictional character for a day, who would you be?
14:10 – How would you join vertical legs to a horizontal rail joined at 45 degrees?
15:41 – Any tips on kid-friendly projects?
18:05 – What grit do you start and end with when finishing with a varnish?
21:10 – Is there any reason why you couldn’t use 4/4 material for the roubo instead of 8/4?
22:18 – What is the difference between poly and PVA glues?
23:35 – Who are your biggest drumming influences?
27:58 – How do you fill gaps in large finger joints?
29:22 – How did you like building multiples of one thing?
32:07 – How do you finish a raw wood project without making it look finished?
33:27 – What would the ideal wood be for a wood toilet seat?
35:18 – Do you think you’d ever consider doing a Roentgen-inspired project for the guild? Here’s a video of a Roentgen piece.
36:44 – How does a card scraper handle end grain?
38:10 – What chisels would you recommend for both high and low prices?
39:57 – How long do you let glue cure before working on it?
41:00 – What am I doing wrong if I’m getting chatter while cutting mortises with a router?
44:01 – Patreon Supporters

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Tim’s Greene & Greene Dresser

This dresser is part of the Greene & Greene bedroom suite I made which consists of this dresser, a queen size bed, two night stands, and a side table. Over the last five or so years, I’ve become interested in the G&G style. As a woodworker I like the technical challenges presented during design and construction of these pieces. Darrell Peart’s and Robert Lang’s books have added to my appreciation of the style and have given practical advice on “how to” details. I also find that the details of G&G furniture add pleasure during construction of the piece and enjoyment afterwards.

As with all my projects, published plans never seem to completely meet the size and design requirements of the piece I want to build. The dresser was no exception. Plans from magazines and Robert Lang’s books were used to get overall dimensions and construction methods. Plans were made using Google Sketch-up and a traditional 2D CAD program I’ve used for years. I find that project design and plans are almost as fun as building the project. Darrell Peart’s books were used to get G&G detail information (inserts, pull designs, leg details …).

The wood is Walnut purchased at an estate sale which was harvested, cut, and air dried in S. central Kansas and was placed in a pole barn for ~20 years. It is really beautiful. Boards like this are hard to come by.

The ebony insert idea on the top drawers is from the Anderson Server I did earlier. The pulls on the large drawers were taken from one of the books by Darrell Peart. I still don’t have a good technique to cut the slots on the top but I’m getting better at it.

Dresser Case Sides—A single board ripped to width was used for the top and bottom rails on each side of the dresser. The panels are ½” solid walnut, planed to width. Mortise and tenons were used to join the rails with the legs. A stub tenon was used to fix the middle style divider to the rails. The cloud lift design on the bottom rails is a typical G&G element. Ebony plugs on the legs and at the middle style add visual interest. I use a combination of techniques from Darrell Peart and William Ng to make the Ebony plugs. The plugs are polished to a very high gloss using a buffer wheel on a grinder.

Dresser Legs—The case legs are nicely proportioned to fit the piece. Each side of the legs have the Blacker leg indent detail described in the Peart books. An accurately made jig and careful routing are needed to obtain an even transition from the indent to the leg surface. I found out that uneven pressure on the router resulted in an uneven indent depth in the leg and an angled transition at the surface. Accurate jigs and routing are essential for a clean indent. It’s much easier in the long term to take extra care and skip extra cleanup work to make the indent look good after it’s cut.

Dresser Front—Each row of drawer fronts are laid out in order from single boards. I blended two designs for the drawer fronts and pulls together. I believe the different styles work together well on this piece. The top row of drawers uses a G&G Ebony bar and pull design which matches the night stands and the Anderson Server I made. The arched drawer pulls on the lower drawers are also based on descriptions in the Peart books. The drawer sides and backs were made from resawn Monterrey Pine. Careful fitting of the top drawers resulted in silky smooth travel without any side-to-side sloppiness and firm closure without the drawers getting stuck in the case. The six large drawers are on drawer slides.

Dresser Top—Top boards were matched for grain pattern and attractiveness. As with the other details, the bread board ends, ebony inserts, and plug design were taken from the Peart books. Additional techniques were learned from YouTube videos by William Ng and others. The bottom of the breadboard ends are flush with the underneath side of the top since the legs straddle both the top and the breadboard ends. The breadboard ends are ripped from a single piece of wood.

Finish—Stain is Watco Danish oil medium walnut stain. A wash coat of 50% orange and blond shellac was applied next. The first full coat of shellac was also a 50% mixture of orange and blond shellac. Blond shellac was used for the final two coats. Final rub out was done using steel wool with a small amount of furniture wax. This results in a very warm tone for the walnut and allows the grain to show through more than a traditional darker Walnut finish would.

I enjoy making this stuff—hope you like it also.

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