Jonelle Patrick's Blog, page 30

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POPPIES

May

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They may not be the least bit traditional, but nobody seems to mind a bit

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Especially when there are LOTS of them

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…and they come in all shapes and colors

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…and they’re even more gorgeous close up

The poppy fields bloom from mid-May to the beginning of June, at Showa Kinen Park.

Open: Every day, 9:30 – 17:00

Admission: ¥410

Note: The poppy fields are a bit of a hike from the main entrance, and not well-marked. Find the entrance to the Japanese garden, then follow the paved path outside it to the right, skirting around the walled area until you come to a wide path branching off to the left. Follow that around the copse of trees to the same fields where the purple cosmos bloom in the fall.

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BABY BLUE EYES (NEMOPHILA)

May

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Nobody had even heard of this flower in Japan until a few years ago, but now if you’re anywhere near social media in the month of May, every single one of your Japanese friends will post at least one selfie with THIS in the background

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It’s good to go early in the season if you want to see fields of that killer cerulean – these flowers start out dark blue and fade to white as they get older

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Whether you’re just in it for the new profile pic or you could spend half a day getting fancy with your settings, the fields of nemophila do not disappoint

The nemophila bloom from early to late May at Hitachi Seaside Park.

Open: 9:30 – 17:00, closed Mondays

Admission: ¥410

Hitachi Seaside Park is about three hours northeast of Tokyo, near Mito. To get there, plug your nearest station into the Train Finder with Ajigaura Station as the destination. There’s a free shuttle bus that runs every nine minutes between Ajigaura Station and the park.

More nemophlia photos & info here

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HIGANBANA

September

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These red amaryllis actually ARE a traditional Japanese flower, but not in a good way. They’ve always been associated with graveyards (where they tend to grow in profusion) so until recently, nobody thought of the idea of planting a whole bunch of them together like this. I think we can all agree, BEST IDEA EVER

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Rare white ones often pop up amongst the red ones

Take the train to Koma Station and follow the signs (and crowd!) to the Kinchakuda site. Note: these flowers reach their peak on the few days right around the equinox (Sept 21), so you have to act fast (and be a little lucky in your choice of day) to see them looking this amazing. It’s better to go too early than too late, though, because they still look beautiful when they’re not all in full bloom yet, but not so much when some of them are past it and withering.

Admission: ¥300

More higanbana photos & info here

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COSMOS

Late September – Early October

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Gotta admit I never loved cosmos up close, but giant fields of them are definitely trip-worthy. The purple ones start blooming at the end of September…

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…and from early to mid-October, the pale yellow and white field comes into bloom

The cosmos fields bloom from late September to mid-October at Showa Kinen Park.

Open: Every day, 9:30 – 17:00

Admission: ¥410

Directions & Map

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If you’re out near Mt. Fuji, you can ogle vast fields of orange ones in early October

These bloom alongside the road, outside the Yamanaka-ko Hana no Miyako Park near Lake Yamanaka

More cosmos photos & info here

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BUSH CLOVER

Late September – Early October

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This super-traditional autumn plant was pretty boring until someone thought of growing tunnels of it, then voila! Instant camera magnet!

This famous tunnel of bush clover is at the Mukojima Hyakka-en botanical garden.

Open: Every day, 9:00 – 17:00

Admission: ¥150

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo. The first one is Nightshade

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Published on June 09, 2017 16:10

The Dish-Breaking Shrine

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This spring, the ever-impish kami-sama apparently thought I was in need of some sort of life lesson. Because every time I set out with a well-planned, perfectly-timed plan, it was like this: “You know that amazing thing you traveled three hours on four trains to see? Well, forget it. You’re not going to see it. Instead you’re going to see this.”

Like, I went to Kamakura to take pictures of the famously famous promenade of cherry trees leading up to the Tsurugaoka Shrine, only to find that 1) the magnificent ones in all the photos had been recently replaced by skinny saplings and 2) they weren’t even close to blooming yet (even though the ones in Tokyo were already dialled up to 100% fluffypink WHY.)

Disgruntled and not wanting to trudge around to spots I’d been to countless times before, I set off to walk around a neighborhood that I’d never explored because it doesn’t boast a single famous shrine or temple.

And…I stumbled across Kamakura-gu – the shrine where if you break a dish, ye olde resident gods will boot pesky, negative people from your life for good.

Okay, how great is that?

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Seriously, could there be anything more satisfying?

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All you have to do is drop a hundred yen coin in the box, pick a dish, say a little prayer, and hurl that sucker against one of the two rocks placed conveniently nearby for the purpose. If the dish breaks, goodbye shade-thrower!

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But wait, that’s not all – Kamakura-gu is also dragon shrine…

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…which means that you can buy these little wooden clappers, and when you shake them, the fierce little red guy simultaneously scares away bad luck and invites good luck in to take its place.

Allow me to demonstrate:

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And if that weren’t enough, there’s a figure of the brave and loyal samurai, Yoshimitsu Murakami (who took not one but SIX arrows for his lord) and if you make an offering and rub his kindly figure, he’ll take on your aches and pains too.

Okay, I get it. Kami-sama, YOU WIN.

Tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood, Kamakura-gu is about a ten minute walk from the entrance to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine. If you’d like to go the next time you’re in town, here’s a map.

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo

When Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death ten years ago wasn’t an accident, his world begins to unravel. New evidence links her to…read more

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Published on May 31, 2017 17:10

Confessions Of A Shiba Stalker

[image error]Okay, I’m going to come right out and admit I don’t actually have a dog. You would, however, be forgiven for assuming that I was knee-deep in shiba inus, on account of I own a scary amount of stuff that is almost exclusively bought by fanatical pet owners who, uh, own shiba inus.

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Like shopping bags…

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…okay, a LOT of shopping bags…

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…and oven mitts…

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…and washcloths…

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…and squishy pillows…

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…and summer fans and packs of tissues…

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…and cooking pots…

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…and rice ball molds…

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…and useless Japanese handtowels that had to be bought because they folded into a cute little cloth book just filled with shibas and akitas (who needs a cloth book of dog pictures? Apparently, MEEEE)

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And if I give you a present (and if you’re deemed WORTHY) it’ll be in one of these little shiba boxes

But if that wasn’t bad enough, it gets worse. I stalk them. I stalk shibas with my camera. Forget those big game safaris in Africa, I just slink around the parks, shrines and streets of Tokyo, pretending I’m aiming at that super fascinating thing RIGHT NEAR THE SHIBA and…

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I’ve spotted them chilling at the Nezu Shrine…

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…getting their portrait taken at the Interpets trade show…

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…saying hello to some lesser breed (YES I covet that purse, do you even need to ask?)…

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…refusing to walk another step…

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…being stalked by other shiba stalkers…

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…and even being devoured by Godzilla

I know. Pathetic. And I’ll quit, I will, just as soon as I get that really cute shiba apron I spotted near Komagome Station…

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo. The first one is Nightshade

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Published on May 20, 2017 10:44

Please Tell Me That’s Not Seaweed On My Ice Cream

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The sticky rice balls I can handle. I could even get into the slightly gelatinous, traditional mitarashi topping that gets its brown from, uh, soy sauce. But I draw the line at nori. Yes, those suspicious-looking little black things on top are KILL ME NOW strips of the same kind of seaweed that holds your tuna roll together. And those sprinkles that look like nuts? Nope. Rice crackers.

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This isn’t the first time that I’ve seen a Western dessert repurposed to resemble mitarashi dango (on the left, those sticky rice balls on a stick, a summertime festival favorite). Behold Mister Donut’s attempt at the mitarashi donut (right)

The weirdest thing is that this sundae isn’t being sold in a shop that’s known for ice cream flavors you’d only eat on a dare – it’s this month’s feature at a mainstream convenience store!

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo. Her fourth book – Painted Doll – is just out in paperback

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Published on May 17, 2017 15:40

The Wedding Of Your Dreams

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Because what nuptial event could possibly be complete without…

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo

When Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death ten years ago wasn’t an accident, his world begins to unravel. New evidence links her to…read more

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Published on May 15, 2017 16:22

Endless Fields Of Blue

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Every once in a while you discover a place where the photos that made you run to the nearest station and jump on godzilla-knows-how-many-trains to get there did not lie. Not even a little bit.

Those pictures of hills swathed in an unbroken carpet of blue flowers at Hitachi Seaside Park? REAL.

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Ronin

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And it’s not like there’s just a tiny patch of them either. The blooming Nemophila cover so many hills, there was no way to get the whole area in single shot. This is, like, a tenth of the place

Where I come from, these little pieces of flowery blue sky are known as Baby Blue Eyes, and are apparently native to my own back yard. (NorCal, that is). Still, nowhere I know in America do they singlemindedly plant one species of flower like they do in Japan (but as you see, they should, THEY SHOULD)

Open: 9:30 – 17:00, closed Mondays

Admission: ¥410

Hitachi Seaside Park is about three hours northeast of Tokyo, near Mito. To get there, plug your nearest station into the Train Finder with Ajigaura Station as the destination. There’s a free shuttle bus that runs every nine minutes between Ajigaura Station and the park.

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo.

When Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death ten years ago wasn’t an accident, his world begins to unravel. New evidence links her to…read more

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Published on May 13, 2017 16:57

New Red Hats

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Yesterday as I was cutting through the grounds of Zojo-ji temple, I noticed that all the Jizo-sans had bright new hats. In all the time I’ve been going there, they’ve never gotten new hats all at once.

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At first I thought that some generous donor had supplied them in bulk, but when I took a closer look, I saw that not all of them were the same style, although they all looked handmade

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And my favorite one didn’t just have a new hat, he had a whole new outfit. I’ve been visiting this little guy for years, and he always makes me happy/sad because someone faithfully brings him new clothes every season. This time, the parka that kept him warm all winter had been exchanged for shirtsleeves for the warm months ahead. He’s always dressed as a boy, so that makes me think that someone is still mourning a child they remember well after all these years.

I don’t know why they suddenly all got new hats at once. But even the ancient ones whose weathered caps were more faded and mossy every time I visited looked happy this time.

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo

These Jizo figures make an appearance in Nightshade…

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Published on May 12, 2017 19:27

A Leopard For Your Butt

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I’ve seen fruit for your patootie and warriors for your derriere, but this is the first time I’ve encountered top-of-the-food-chain predators for your butt. Am trying hard not to imagine the Japanese bathroom where this would fit right in…

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo

When Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death ten years ago wasn’t an accident, his world begins to unravel. New evidence links her to…read more

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Published on May 11, 2017 17:30

Beautifully Beastly

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Most mysterious movie tie-in ever

Rose. Flavored. Yogurt. Let’s all agree that this one ought to have remained a fantasy.

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Live the dream.

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo. Painted Doll is now out in paperback.

When Tokyo Detective Kenji Nakamura’s phone rings with the news that his mother’s death ten years ago wasn’t an accident, his world begins to unravel. New evidence links her to…read more

Like • 0 comments • flag

Published on May 09, 2017 18:06

Where To See The Most Amazing Azaleas In Tokyo

From mid-April to mid-May, it seems like there are bright pink bushes whipping by the train window everywhere you go in Tokyo, but there are a few special places that just beg you to take the kind of snaps that make everyone scream “I want to go to there!”

Here are my favorite places to take azalea photos in Tokyo…

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SHIFUNE KANNON-JI TEMPLE

I’m going to kick this post off with a new discovery, even though it isn’t actually in metro Tokyo – it’s out in Ome, which is about an hour and a half from Shinjuku Station – but as you can see, it’s well worth the trip during azalea season!

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This place is HUGE. It’s like the Nezu Shrine on steroids

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As you wend your way to the top, there are nice views of the benevolent Kannon who raises a blessing hand over the polka-dotted hillsides

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Various colors of azaleas pop in and out of season for about two weeks

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Everywhere you look, giant pompoms

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Hiking paths climb through a bloomy wonderland…

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…until you reach the top, where you can soak in 360 degrees of azalea goodness. By the way, this photo was taken at close to “full bloom” – sadly, we don’t live in Photoshop Heaven where all of them hit maximum eyepop at the same time. (An extra bonus of this azalea spot is that even when it’s super crowded, you barely realize other people are there. Note the ant-like swarm at the bottom of the hill near the temple building – they couldn’t spoil the view of the flowers if they tried!)

Getting to Shiofunekannon-ji Temple without a car takes about 1.5 hours by train (use the Train Finder to search for the best route from your nearest station to Kabe Station), then it’s about a 35-minute walk to the temple entrance. Or you can take a bus from the station – the one bound for Nishi-Tokyo Danshi – and walk 10 minutes from the Shiofune Kannon-iriguchi bus stop.

Open: 8:00-17:00

Admission: ¥300

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Another newly-discovered azalea spot is closer to metro Tokyo:

SHOWA KINEN PARK

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The best azalea display is right near the Tachikawa entrance, at the big fountain.

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A magnificent multicolored hedge completely surrounds the fountain…

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…and somehow they manage to get all the colors blooming at the same time

This giant park is in Tachikawa, about an hour from Shinjuku Station, and although it’s a long way to go just to see the azalea hedge, it’s such a big park, there’s a lot more to see than just what’s famously in season. For example, at the same time the azaleas are blooming, you can catch the tail end of the “Flower Festival”:

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There’s a big section by the “Serpentine” river that is planted in tulips, and it’s in constant bloom from early April until early May. This picture was taken on the same day as the azalea photos.

Hours: 9:30-17:00

Admission: ¥410

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But of course, there are plenty of spectacular places to see azaleas just a short train ride away from anywhere in Tokyo. For example…

NI NO MARU, Imperial Palace East Garden

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Most inviting place to sit in all of Tokyo

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Wherever you are, you’re surrounded by color

This little garden is filled with hedges that look like abstract paintings made with flowers. Most of the year, the Imperial Palace gardens are totally missable, but during azalea season, you have to GO.

For sheer “paved with color” perfection, you can’t miss at this small but lovely spot that’s in the “downstairs” part of the Imperial Palace East Gardens

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The banks of bushes snake around green lawns…

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…and little islands of not-blooming, so the colors look even more vivid in contrast

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No matter what season I go, this garden is one of the most uncrowded I’ve seen in Tokyo. If you wait patiently, you can easily get pix with no people in them

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Even the parts that aren’t solid color are just beautiful

[image error]The first azaleas to bloom are the red ones, the last are white. At any one time, several colors are in full riot, but the mix changes every day.

Open: 9:00-17:00, closed Mondays & Fridays

Admission: Free

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NEZU SHRINE

This shrine in Northern Tokyo is one of my favorites in any season, but it’s famous for its azaleas.

How do they get them to bloom like that? Kind of amazing, isn’t it?

The added bonus of seeing the azaleas at the Nezu Shrine is that you can also walk through their tunnel of torii gates.

Open: Every day, 9:00-17:00

Admission: ¥200

Note: Sadly, in 2017 the Nezu Shrine azaleas were struck by a perfect storm of weather and malaise, and the bushes produced only a few buds this year. The staff told me that they hope that with treatment, the bushes will bounce back next year, as beautiful as ever.

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RIKUGI-EN GARDEN

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Rikugi-en is one of the most serene gardens in Tokyo, but from mid-April to mid-May, riotous spots of color pop up amid the greenery

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“Azalea Mountain” is across the pond, beyond my favorite bridge

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You can climb up through the crazy colors…

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…and from the peak, you can pretend that all your base are belong to us

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As you can see, even while the “mountain” is in full bloom, the shadier parts of the garden still have colorful surprises in store. If you miss the peak, you’ll still find pockets of delight amid the greeniness

Open: Every day, 9:00-17:00

Admission: ¥300

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If you’re anything like me, maybe you’re wondering why cherry blossoms are such a big deal when azaleas can look like this. So I asked one of my Japanese friends the question…

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Jonelle Patrick writes mysteries set in Tokyo. Nightshade is the one that takes place around the Nezu Shrine and Rikugien Garden