Matador Network's Blog, page 913

What is Holi, how do you celebrate

Whether or not you celebrate Holi, if you live in an area where anyone does, you can spot the festivities from a mile away. Brightly dyed powders shower down on the giddy, tie-dyed revelers throwing them. Spurts of water turn the dusty mess into a muddy one. It’s no surprise that India’s Festival of Colors has caught the eye of the non-Hindu community, with new celebrations popping up around the world every year. Yet there’s more to Holi than engaging friends, family, and strangers in color wars. Below, we’ve outlined everything you need to know about India’s epic Holi festival before participating this year.

What is Holi?
The legends behind Holi
Celebrating Holi today
Is the powder thrown during Holi safe?
Where to get in on the Holi festivities



What is Holi?

Holi is a Hindu festival held during the full moon of Phalunga, a month of the Hindu lunar calendar that falls in February or March. Though it’s known around the world as the Festival of Colors, Holi celebrates the start of spring when light triumphs over darkness, goodness over evil. It also has ties to Krishna, a central Hindu deity associated with love.

The legends behind Holi

Festivity at large is a tribute to Krishna, a puckish god known for playfully tossing flowers and dyed water at Radha, his beloved, and her accompanying gopis, or milkmaids. In one instance, troubled by Radha’s fair skin in contrast to his blue complexion, Krishna sought counsel from his mother, who advised him to smear Radha’s face with paint. These antics are believed to have inspired the tradition of throwing gulal, or colorful powder, on loved ones during Holi.

The theme of good vanquishing evil traces back to a different myth involving Hiranyakashipu, a demon king who fancied himself a supreme deity, and his son Prahlada, who worshipped the deity Vishnu. As the story goes, Hiranyakashipu enlisted his sister Holika’s help in killing his son for his disobedience. Holika, who possessed a fireproof cloak, was to trick Prahlada into following her onto a pyre where he alone would perish. Instead, protected by Vishnu, Prahlada was saved from the flames while Holika burned, thus beginning the tradition of lighting a bonfire the night before Holi, or Holika Dahan.

Among the earliest written records of Holi celebrations comes from the seventh-century Sanskrit text Ratnavali, penned by Indian emperor Harsha. He describes the festivities in detail, calling Holi the “great cupid festival” and illustrating a scene not unlike what you might see today. Beyond a generally jubilant atmosphere filled with singing, dancing, and drums, Harsha references squirt guns filled with colored water and perfumey red-yellow powder everywhere.

Celebrating Holi today

Photo: SatpalSingh/Shutterstock

Anyone even peripherally aware of Holi knows that celebrants shower one another in bright powder. Many may not realize that it’s a two-day festival that traditionally kicks off with fire. In India, Holika Dahan pyres are lit after sunset when participants sing, dance, pray, and perform rituals like burning a Holika effigy. The main event takes place the following day, a day on which rites and ceremonies yield to unbridled play. Kids spray one another with water guns called pichkari. Adults join them, equipped with their own arsenals of gulal.

A time to celebrate loved ones, Holi is also a day for visiting friends and relatives. It’s typical to bring sweet treats like gujiya (a stuffed pastry made with khoya, or evaporated milk solids, and dried fruit) or bhang lassi, a cannabis-infused yogurt drink.

Is the powder thrown during Holi safe?

Early gulal was made with plant-based coloring agents like turmeric, a bright orange spice used heavily in Indian cooking. With time, chemical dyes became the standard, favored for their artificially bright hues and ability to be mass produced. Many have questioned the harmful effects of these modern powders, which may be toxic, on both health and the environment.

The Indian Journal of Dermatology has outlined common symptoms presenting in celebrants after the festivities, which include itching and burning sensations, lesions and abrasions, peeling skin, and an uptick in skin conditions like eczema and acne. Eye irritation has also been reported, and concerns have been raised over the consequences of breathing in the powder.

Environmental groups have similarly questioned the holiday’s impact on the planet’s health. In response, a number of gulal manufacturers have started advertising non-toxic, eco-friendly, and even organic powders. As with most labeling, these phrasings can be misleading, but there are legitimately safe products on the market. If you celebrate this year, remember to check labels for natural dyes and go for duller powders or pricier products when in doubt.

Where to get in on the Holi festivities

Photo: Mazur Travel/Shutterstock

Northern India does the Festival of Colors like nowhere else on Earth. Major cities like New Delhi and Jaipur, and Udaipur farther south, go all out for Holi. In Uttar Pradesh, Mathura also takes the festivities seriously as the alleged birthplace of Krishna, Vishnu’s eighth avatar. Holi is far less ubiquitous and scaled-down in southern India. It’s unlikely you’d end up in a color war should you find yourself traveling through the area, but you may see fuller-than-usual temples.

These days, there’s no shortage of revelry outside of India, either. Annual events are hosted everywhere from New York and Berlin to Guyana and Mauritius. Spanish Fork, Utah, puts on one of the biggest and brightest events in the United States, even the world, with tens of thousands of attendees. Countless smaller celebrations are hosted throughout the country, as well, so be sure to look into Holi gatherings near you.


More like this: The 7 best places to celebrate Holi outside of India

The post Everything you’ve ever wondered about Holi, India’s Festival of Colors appeared first on Matador Network.

Positive weekly environmental news

The past couple of weeks have been busy on the climate-win front. There have been small victories, like French President Emmanuel Macron announcing restrictions on Mont Blanc ascent traffic due to a deteriorating ecosystem. We’ve also seen weird angles on depressing major news — Bloomberg reported on the massive decrease in Chinese air traffic due to the coronavirus keeping 100 million metric tons of carbon emissions out of the atmosphere. Also, this happened:

Delta is going climate neutral

We skipped the kitschy headline because the news itself is attention-grabbing enough. On February 14, Delta CEO Ed Bastion announced that the company would commit $1 billion over the next decade to offset its carbon emissions, largely through buying carbon offsets and more efficient planes. Yes, Delta will continue to burn jet fuel and spew emissions into the atmosphere — there’s still no other viable way for an airline to operate — but the fact that it came out and made such a massive financial commitment is likely to spark a chain reaction amongst top-tier airlines that can afford to do the same. As the old saying goes, any press is good press. This happens to be really, really, good press. And before you regarded it as a PR stunt, this move makes Delta the first major airline to directly commit to doing something huge about its massive footprint. Bastion and Delta deserve massive kudos for standing up to address an issue that they directly contribute to.

Judge rules expansion of Heathrow Airport illegal on climate grounds

Also in air-related news, a proposed expansion of London’s Heathrow Airport has been blocked on environmental grounds. For nearly 50 years, a debate had been ongoing about adding a third runway to the airport, but an appeal court ruled that due to binding environmental commitments made by the country in the 2015 Paris Agreement, the expansion of the airport was outside any legal right to proceed. Reuters reported that while Prime Minister Boris Johnson, a longtime opponent of the expansion, will not challenge the ruling, the ownership of the airport will — though the odds of winning in an appeal are unclear.

Global progress on global food sustainability

In under-the-radar news, big things are happening in the global food system, even if it may be a while before we see them on a large scale. In the Netherlands, for example, floating farms in Rotterdam are helping to bring sustainable dairy and agriculture to the country’s second-largest city. It works like this: Pontoons the size of a massive suburban box house are constructed and set afloat, anchored tightly in order that the livestock onboard doesn’t become seasick. The cows graze, live, produce, and poop on board, and their manure helps to generate a self-sustaining ecosystem complete with feed for the cattle and fertilizer for the nearby fields that grow their grass.

Now, you may be thinking, “What’s the big deal? There are already cattle everywhere!” The answer, in fact, is in the question: The land it takes to produce the world’s egregiously venal beef and dairy needs is largely responsible for such problems as the burning of the Amazon, and that’s without even looking at the manure issue at all. If we’re going to build a global circular economy and diminish waste — an absolute necessity for cutting carbon pollution — we’ve got to figure out a less impactful living situation for all those cows and all that poop. The farms could, theoretically, even be turned into full-on eco-systems that produce a variety of edible products for restaurants and markets.

According to a report in Wired, other major cities including Dubai, New York, and Singapore, have expressed interest in bringing buoyed farming to their docks — signifying that this could become a trend the likes of which we haven’t seen since Chez Panisse brought the farm-to-table food concept to Berkeley, California, back in 1971.

Also on the global food front, albeit more veggie-friendly this time, a company called AeroFarms in Newark, New Jersey, has brought that same circular model to growing produce in urban areas. Their thinking is that by farming vertically — and organically — in the heart of big cities, growing populations won’t need to continue tearing apart ecosystems to develop more farmland from which to feed themselves. Moreover, part of their vertical structure is made from recycled plastic bottles. The company is thriving on the East Coast, already producing massive tower gardens that grow food for the local economy. The coolest part about this is that through their retail brand DreamGreens, you can already find their produce at major outlets like Whole Foods. The future really is now — and it tastes damn good.

Spending less time on the sand

On Monday, a major fossil fuel deal abruptly collapsed after the project’s investors pulled out. For nine years, developers had been seeking to increase oil production on the oil sands in Alberta, Canada. The New York Times said Tuesday that developer Teck Resources nixed plans due to there being “no constructive path forward.” In short, low oil prices and concern over the “future of oil” have made deep-pocketed investors nervous about sticking their funds into long-term oil and gas projects in the area. This is great news for the boreal forest surrounding the oil sands, which would have been trimmed by a cool 24,000 acres in order to fulfill the proposed contract. But the big win here is actually what happened behind the scene: the signal from investors that big money is increasingly cautious about major new oil and gas developments, which follows news from one of the world’s largest investment firms that it is increasingly looking to cleaner projects in which to stockpile money.

We know where our bets are going. Have a green week.


More like this: Luxembourg makes all public transit free as of March 1

The post The Climate Win: Delta is going carbon neutral, and urban farms rise up appeared first on Matador Network.

Mount Washington wave cloud

Mountains are known for creating some unusual weather systems, but on Monday the observatory atop Mount Washington in New Hampshire shared a photo of some clouds that are pretty out of this world. The photo shows two cloud features hovering side-by-side: a smooth, round, lenticular cloud that transitions into a curling wave. While lenticular clouds are common around mountains, they don’t typically swoop into the shape of a wave.

The observatory shared a picture of the cloud on Twitter, with the caption, “Mother Nature waved back this morning! A KH-lenticular, or Kelvin-Helmholtz wave cloud, was spotted around 7am. These form when a large increase in winds occurs over a small vertical distance within a cloud.”

According to meteorologist Matthew Cappucci, “Seeing either type of cloud is unusual, but for both features to be wrapped up in one cloud? An exotic sight and then some.” Cappucci said that such clouds are common around mountains, although you have to be quick to photograph them.

The wave shapes, when they do appear, usually only last for a few seconds and come in repetitive series, while this one only had one wave. Last June a series of Kelvin-Helmholtz waves were spotted in the skies above Virginia. Much like the ones seen this week, they only lasted for a few seconds.


More like this: 12 stargazing events you don’t want to miss in 2020

The post This bizarre, wave-shaped cloud showed up above Mount Washington appeared first on Matador Network.

Souqs in Middle East, North Africa

If it were possible to distill the essence of the Middle East and North Africa into a single experience, it would be a jaunt through the spice-ladened air of a busy souq. Souqs, collections of adjacent vendors often sprawled out over a plaza or multiple semi-enclosed streets, have served as the economic hubs of Middle Eastern metropolises since their first appearance, which some researchers contend was as early as 2,000 BC.

Despite the vast distances and imposing geographies separating them, the major cities in North Africa, the Levant, and the Gulf have historically been connected by an extensive web of trade routes, such as the King’s Highway and the Silk Road. Merchants used this infrastructure to transport incense, spices, fruits, nuts, gold, glassware, jewelry, cloth, dyes, timber, perfumes, and more from city to city.

These same traders required spaces where they could display and sell their products, and it was out of this need that the souq flourished. Some souqs were dedicated to one type of ware while others contained dozens of shops, each selling a specific category of product. Intangible but equally important, culture and knowledge were freely exchanged at souqs, forging a sense of interconnectedness among disparate peoples.

While the days when traders traveling with caravans would stop to unload and sell their products are gone, these ancient marketplaces have not been abandoned. Both locals and tourists continue to frequent souqs all across the world. Visiting all of them would be a challenge, so here are the ones whose history, architecture, surroundings, and products are the most extraordinary.

1. Old City, Jerusalem

Photo: eFesenko/Shutterstock

While better known as home to some of the world’s holiest and most contested religious sites, Jerusalem’s Old City is also one of the world’s most interesting souqs.

Rising on both sides of a labyrinth of narrow stone streets are buildings whose ground floors are occupied by shops, restaurants, bakeries, and butchers. Upper levels often serve as residences for the owners of the businesses below, as hostel rooms, or as quarters for a religious order. Over some stretches of the Old City, arched roofing shades shoppers while in others, balconies provide the only respite from the sun. There are four quarters in the Old City: Christian, Muslim, Armenian, and Jewish. Each has something to offer, so set aside time to explore all four.

People-watching is almost as entertaining as the contents of the souq itself. While navigating the narrow streets and dodging the occasional cart piled high with baked goods or dates, tourists hunt for pashmina scarves or bejeweled camel figurines to bring back home. Others stop to admire strands of colorful beads hung outside a shop’s entrance, or to inspect the beautiful ceramics for which the Armenians are famous. Hungry from hours of exploring, still others purchase and munch on zalabia, a delectable, curlicue-shaped fried dough saturated in honey and rose water.

Once you’ve explored the souq by foot, walk to the Austrian Hospice, which is past Damascus Gate on Via Dolorosa. Stop by the cafe for a refreshing iced coffee with whipped cream, and then head to the roof. For a small fee, you’ll gain access to the best vantage point in the city. The elevation affords a view of the striking gold and blues of the Dome of the Rock; the peaks of old churches; the worn roofs of apartment buildings; and the people scurrying in and out of shops and restaurants.

Of course, the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the mosques on Temple Mount should not be missed. Since they’re located within the Old City, the souq leads up to their doorsteps. Lesser-known spots are hidden within the Holy City for those who don’t mind straying a little, and if you’re already exploring the souq, it would be a shame to skip them.

For example, few people know that it’s possible to do a little spelunking beneath the souq. Zedekiah’s Cave (also known as Solomon’s Quarries) lies just underneath the Muslim Quarter. Access to the cave is located just left of Damascus Gate, and entry is free. Even more fascinating, however, is a mysterious cistern that can only be reached through St. Helena’s Coptic Chapel, which itself is on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Pay a small entrance fee to the resident monk and ask to see Helena’s Well. He’ll direct you to a series of 51 steps leading down to a cavernous chamber containing a few feet of water.

2. Khan el-Khalili, Cairo

Photo: Merydolla/Shutterstock

Cairo, Egypt’s crowded capital, has long been a trade hub. Cairo’s position on the route of the pilgrimage to Mecca for thousands of African Muslims meant that there was a steady flow of people who wanted to stock up on food, clothing, and the like, and the souqs were there to fill their needs. Of those that have survived, the most memorable is Khan el-Khalili.

Although Khan el-Khalili’s existence can’t be traced back to the days of pharaonic Egypt, the presence of a market in the spot certainly isn’t new. The seeds of what would grow into the magnificent marketplace were planted in the 14th century, when Cairo was at the crossroads of trade routes stretching from the Indian Ocean to the Mediterranean. At that point in time, Khan el-Khalili looked more like a khan (an inn inside a caravanserai, which was a group of guest houses where traveling merchants would stay) than it did a souq. In 1511, Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri destroyed the khan and replaced it with a more souq-like layout, replete with small hotels, warehouses, and shops. Dazzling, tall entrances to the souq were constructed around this time. Just one still stands today, and it’s definitely worth seeing as it is a prime example of Mamluk architecture. Its multicolored stone lobes are surrounded by honeycomb structures, intricate carvings of plants, elegant Arabic calligraphy, and complex geometric patterns.

By dint of its location, Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili overflowed with goods from Asia, Europe, and Africa. Today, the souq caters more toward tourists, but locals do still purchase jewelry there, as Khan el-Khalili contains the country’s largest gold and silver market. For tourists who aren’t looking for such luxuries, there’s a wide variety of cheaper jewelry on sale, as well as an assortment of figurines, papyrus art, coin belts for dancers, clothing, woven rugs, Ramadan lanterns, metal platters, instruments for making and serving coffee, hookahs, and leather slippers.

Bargaining is an essential part of the Khan el-Khalili experience. Some of the goods are cheap, some are artisan. Either way, you should expect that any initial price is a significant markup. Counter an offer with no more than 25 percent of the original price, and go from there. In most cases (except for very fine gold or silver), you shouldn’t pay any more than 40 percent of the starting price.

As exhilarating as haggling is, if you feel drained afterward and need a caffeine fix, you’re in luck. Squeezed inside one of Khan el-Khalili’s narrow alleys is the most famous cafe in Cairo: El Fishawy. Frequented by the likes of famed author and Nobel laureate Naguib Mahfouz, El Fishawy has always been at the heart of Egypt’s intellectual and artistic movements. Warm weather calls for one of the freshly squeezed juices (but hold off on the ice if you don’t want to get sick). If it’s nighttime and a bit nippy out, try a classic like hot mint tea, or be bold and ask for sahlab, a delicious dessert drink with a consistency slightly less viscous than pudding.

3. Souq As-Salt, Jordan

Photo: Rebecca Byrne

While Souq As-Salt is smaller than the fruit and vegetable market in the capital of Amman, it is, in many ways, more worthy of a visit. In fact, it is arguably Jordan’s last traditional souq. Located in a valley between the hills that make up the ancient town of As-Salt, this souq is primarily meant for locals, who come on a daily basis to purchase their produce. Walk along the main road and alleys that make up the souq and you’ll also encounter shoe cobblers and tailors, busy mending residents’ clothing and footwear.

The traditional dress of As-Salt, which includes non-native indigo-dyed fabric, attests to its importance as a locus of trade. Among other items, As-Salt was famous for raisins, which were traded with Jewish merchants in Tiberias for the purpose of making araq, the local anise-flavored liquor. Distributors from Nablus and Jerusalem used As-Salt as a launchpoint for trade to the east of the Jordan River. So significant was the town, in fact, that the Ottomans made it a regional capital.

One of the reasons that As-Salt’s souq is so special is that it resembles those in Syria, which are renowned for their beauty. Hammam Street, which runs through the heart of the souq, is lined with tall, arching wooden doors embedded into 150-year-old stone buildings. Come morning, as people begin to trickle past the tall clock tower in Al Ain Plaza at the souq’s entrance, shop proprietors swing open these massive doors, revealing an array of goods to tempt both people on a grocery run and the casual peruser.

If you plan to hike up the steep hill toward Al-Qala’a — a pink and white stone mosque from where there’s an unbeatable view of the city’s Ottoman architecture — you should first stock up on snacks from the souq. On display is every type of local fruit and vegetable you could imagine, and you can’t go wrong with apples or figs grown on a nearby farm. However, if you want to indulge in a truly authentic Jordanian culinary experience, you should partake in the locals’ fondness for eating raw green almonds soaked in salt water for a totally different take on the poplar nut. If that’s not appetizing enough, opt instead for salt-soaked green cherries, which are like miniature, super crunchy green apples.

Another feature of the souq that recommends itself to tourists is its proximity to two of the city’s biggest highlights: the Harmony Trail and the Abu Jaber House, also known as the Historic Old Salt Museum. The former is a trail that begins at the bottom of As-Salt (at the souq) and cuts a meandering path up the hill that ends at the mosque on the peak (Al-Qala’a). Along the way, the trail hits numerous heritage houses and religious sites, such as the centuries-old Al-Khader Church.

Just across from the entrance to the souq, the Historic Old Salt Museum provides tourists with an archaeological overview of the city’s history. The building itself is a remarkably intact example of Ottoman-era Nablusi architecture.

Once you’ve finished trekking up the hill and perusing the museum, stop back by the souq and pick up an edible souvenir. There are many spices and herbal teas on sale; tea lovers should try the chamomile, which is harvested nearby and hand-dried by the women selling it.

4. Al-Hamidiyah Souq, Damascus

Photo: fpolat69/Shutterstock

Syrian souqs are the most iconic in the world, and for good reasons. From delectable pistachio-covered desserts to expertly crafted walnut wood furniture inlaid with mother of pearl, everything on sale is amazing.

Sadly, the souqs of Aleppo were severely damaged in the civil war. While Damascene souqs did not escape unscathed, they’ve remained much more intact. Souq Al-Hamidiyah in Damascus has been restored to its pre-war beauty and is once again filled with locals and tourists.

All who approach are greeted by the remains of the Roman ruins of the Temple of Jupiter, its 40-foot-tall, slender pillars and graceful arches towering over the pedestrians entering the souq below.

Excavations hint at human activity in the environs as early as 10,000 BCE, but the Damascus that quickly became a commercial hub was founded in the third millennium BCE. Though the spot on which Souq Al-Hamidiyah stands has likely functioned as a marketplace since Roman times, the current structure is much younger, its construction having begun in 1780 during Sultan Hamid’s reign. Remaining work was finished in the 19th century.

One either side of the long path, Souq Al-Hamidiyah is packed with stall after stall of vendors hawking food, clothing, perfumes, jewelry, artisan soap, silk, metalwork, and more. Thanks to a 33-foot-tall metal arch that is interspersed with small round openings, just the right amount of light filters into the souq so that shoppers can see everything without overheating from the sun’s direct rays. Those with extra time can peel off and explore the adjacent souqs that branch off from Al-Hamidiyah and cater to more niche markets.

No visit to Al-Hamidiyah would be complete without trying ice cream from Bakdash. Bakdash is the most celebrated maker of Arabic booza, a type of ice cream that contains sahlab (ground orchid powder) and mastik (a plant resin) and is pounded and stretched in a cold freezer drum in order to achieve a stretchy consistency. The result is a thicker, denser, and extremely creamy ice cream. Employees use their wooden tools to pound and stretch the ice cream in front of hungry onlookers, topping the final creation off with a generous sprinkling of pistachios.

The end of the souq is just as impressive as its entrance. Al-Hamidiyah’s vaulted ceiling gives way to the wide open space of the Umayyad Mosque’s courtyard, believed by Syrians to be the resting place of John the Baptist’s severed head. Originally a Byzantine church, the structure is a gorgeous example of Islamic architecture, making expert use of space, natural light, and geometric motifs.

5. Houmt Souq, Djerba

Photo: BTWImages/Shutterstock

Arabic for “market neighborhood,” Houmt Souq lives up to its name; the entire city, which serves as the default capital of the Tunisian island of Djerba, is like an open-air market. Djerba’s medina (old city center) houses a semi-covered souq, but dispersed in the alleyways that radiate out from this focal point are plenty of additional shops. The entire arrangement creates the impression that much of the town is an extension of the souq.

The walk toward the souq in the medina is an experience in and of itself. Framing the streets are 15th-century buildings with whitewashed exteriors and turquoise-painted balconies that are covered in bougainvillea flowers. As you approach the commercial center, you’ll be met by Djerbians selling leather goods, woven palm baskets, caftans, rugs, pottery, fine jewelry, spices, and fish.

The fish market is perhaps the most famous section of Houmt Souq. Suntanned men auction off as-fresh-as-it-gets seafood. Purchase a fish (or an octopus, if that’s what you’re into) and bring it to a nearby restaurant — they’ll cook it for you on the spot. Once you’ve finished, stroll around the perimeter of the souq and pop into one of the local cafes for a drink.

Houmt Souq’s varied offerings reflect the diversity of Djerba’s inhabitants. The island is home to Tunisia’s largest Jewish population, who have lived on the island for at least 2,500 years. On the peripheries of the souq, the buildings are dotted with Jewish shops, whose proprietors use ancient techniques to fashion magnificent necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, and other jewelry. The Ibadis, a Muslim sect that follow a movement that predates the Shia-Sunni split, have also found refuge in Djerba. Both minority groups live in harmony with the majority Sunni population. A visit to Houmt Souq is so much more than a fun shopping trip — it’s a chance to see an oasis of coexistence and multiculturalism.

6. Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech

Photo: RAndrei/Shutterstock

Jemaa el-Fna is a cacophony of sights, sounds, and smells that is served up on a daily and nightly basis in Marrakech. Owing to its position on the western edge of the early Islamic world, Marrakech has always been a vital stop on trade routes and served as a gate to West Africa. Jemaa el-Fna has been in operation for at least a thousand years and was added to UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in recognition of its immense historical and cultural significance.

In Marrakech’s medina, on a large open plaza, performers weave in and out of the crowds and carts. Snake charmers deftly handle smooth serpents for tips from tourists; acrobats contort and flip through the air; and dancers whirl, their colorful clothing rising and cascading with their jumps.

Curls of intoxicating aromas emanate from the many food carts in the center of the square. All of the options are delicious, but to eat like a Moroccan, order a merguez sausage or a tagine dish. You’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to tagine, and you can’t go wrong. Either chicken, lamb, or fish is simmered in a medley of spices, often with nuts, a sweet fruit, or tomatoes. If you want to recreate the dish at home, buy a tagine from one of the pottery shops along the edge of the plaza.

Sounds are as pervasive as smells in Jemaa el-Fna. Visitors are constantly inundated by merchants vying for their attention, shouting out the latest deals. Storytellers and poets recount heroic tales and romantic lines, their words set against a background of nearby musicians beating drums and strumming an oud or a hajouj. Few people can say they’ve shopped for hand-woven rugs or locally sourced argan oil beauty products while enjoying what amounts to a free concert, but that’s exactly what you get at Jemaa el-Fna.

In addition to the standard souq wares, Jemaa el-Fna has unusual offerings. Interspersed around the square are booths where the brave can receive folk medicine and amateur dental care. Though it’s wise to avoid partaking in these particular experiences, they’re something that every visitor should see. A less risky alternative would be to purchase a temporary henna tattoo from one of the many artists.

As thrilling as Jemaa el-Fna is, hours of it can feel like an assault on the senses. On the perimeter of the souq there are plenty of buildings with upper floors that contain cafes. If you need a break, climb on up, sit on the balcony, and admire the souq from above.

7. Nizwa Souq, Nizwa

Photo: NICOLA MESSANA PHOTOS/Shutterstock

Ask most people in the Middle East outside of the Gulf where Nizwa is and you’ll be met with a blank stare. That was not always the case, though. Oman — or what would become Oman — was always an important stop on sea trade routes that connected the powerful Indian and Persian empires to the Arabian Peninsula and Africa.

Muttrah Souq, located in Muscat, is technically older and perhaps more famous than Nizwa’s eponymous souq. However, Muttrah’s offerings are more commercial and distinctly less interesting than those of Nizwa’s souq. Since Nizwa is less than two hours from Muscat, it would be a missed opportunity to skip the visit.

Upon entering Nizwa, visitors are immediately treated to a lovely view: sandstone building upon sandstone building, surrounded by a fertile valley covered with palm trees. There’s enough dry land, though, that when it rains, Nizwa’s air is infused with an invigorating petrichor. To find Nizwa’s souq, just look for two salient structures: the Nizwa Fort, which stands next to the Friday Mosque’s large, motif-covered dome. Just below these two landmarks, to the southern side of the mosque, lies the souq.

While most of the souq was renovated into beautiful modern architecture that pays homage to ancient Oman, there is a more historical section that all visitors must explore: the old East Souq. It was left untouched during renovations, thus retaining its original earthen arches, carved wooden doors, and stone streets.

Like most souqs, Nizwa’s marketplace has an assortment of produce, meat, fish, traditional clothing, jewelry, and ornate coffee pots and kettles. What is most interesting is the more traditional offerings, like the Bahla pottery, beautiful in its simplicity, and the khanjars, which are j-shaped knives that Omani men wear tucked into leather belts.

When you’re ready to explore the rest of this town, be sure to buy some dates from the souq before you leave — Oman is famous for them.

The post The 7 most extraordinary souqs from around the world appeared first on Matador Network.

The best things to see in Detroit

The best possible way to learn, understand, and appreciate a new city is to dig into its history. And few cities in the United States have the historical chops of Detroit, which has been a major part of more US cultural movements than nearly any other city. Forget the things you thought you knew about Michigan’s largest city and go make new discoveries, partake in exciting historical moments, and explore beyond the guide books. This itinerary starts with destruction and finishes with an eye toward the future of one of the US’ greatest cities.

The abandoned Packard Auto Plant tells a story of Detroit’s reign as automotive capital.

Photo: Belikova Oksana/Shutterstock

The excitement was palpable in 1903 when the Packard Automotive Plant first opened its doors on East Grand Boulevard. Forty thousand workers streamed into the 3,500,000-square-foot plant to build the fiercely popular Packard vehicles and later, the Packard V-1650 Merlin engine which powered the Mustang fighter plane during World War II. By 1910, the Packard Car Company was the largest auto plant in the US and its innovative reinforced concrete factory construction became the standard for automobile factories across America. Throughout the following decades, however, increased competition and modernization streamlined — and eventually outsourced — much of the work in the automotive world. The plant closed in 1958, becoming the most visible symbol of the decline of Detroit’s automotive empire.

Parts of the property were used for various purposes by other companies until the late 1990s, when it was abandoned completely. As time passed and vandals pillaged, the plant fell into disarray. Shortly after our last visit, the vast concrete bridge over Grand Boulevard collapsed, and it really hit home that an important part of Detroit’s history had just disappeared. However, thanks to work from nonprofit group The Packard Project, the plant is (slowly) being revitalized.

You can visit the plant just off I-94 and though it’s a shell of its former self, you can still feel some of the magic of Detroit’s automotive glory days. It costs nothing to poke around and take photos, though be mindful of closures and “No Trespassing” signs along with exposed rebar and other hazards. Tour operator Pure Detroit occasionally offers guided tours of the premises for $40.

See the ghost of the Belle Isle Zoo.

Photo: Felix Mizioznikov/Shutterstock

The abandoned Belle Isle Zoo is located on Belle Isle, an island popular with kayakers and beachgoers. The zoo opened in 1895 and was wildly popular for several decades. As time passed, the zoo began to suffer insurmountable budget issues and in 2002, it closed its doors for good. Sadly, the only reminder of the 150 animals that once roamed the grounds are numerous round huts with gray spiraling roofs. The graffiti-covered abandoned zoo is now almost hidden from viewers due to years of overgrowth and neglect but you can catch a glimpse of the animal enclosures, buildings, and metal entrance stanchions if you peek between the fences.

The island itself is also worth a visit to walk through Belle Isle Nature Center, and past that is the also-closed Belle Isle Aquarium. A bridge from downtown connects the city to the island, where as odd as it feels, you’ll look north at the Detroit skyline and south toward Windsor, Canada.

Check out the Riverfront for a taste of Detroit’s pride.

Photo: ehrlif/Shutterstock

Detroit, despite a half-century of tough economics, has never lost its fierce pride. As a visitor, the best place to feel this passion is to wander Hart Plaza, located near Detroit’s Riverfront. A number of sites are worth stopping to see, beginning with “The Fist,” an imposing 8,000-pound, 24-foot-long bronze sculpture located in the center of Hart Plaza. This impactful artwork was created by Rolf Kriken as a monument to Joe Louis, the world heavyweight champion from 1937 to 1949. Joe Louis was largely regarded as the first African American to become a national athletic icon and became a symbol of the breaking of racial barriers in professional sports.

Then, walk over to “The Spirit of Detroit,” another impactful sculpture located about one block east of “The Fist,” on Jefferson Avenue. The striking bronze figure holds a golden sphere in one hand and a mother and child in the other. As a symbol of God and all human relationships, “The Spirit of Detroit” is emblazoned throughout the city and was featured in a past Super Bowl commercial. The statue is frequently dressed in sports jerseys to provide a little extra luck during games.

See how the city is becoming a model for smart development.

Photo: rlassman/Shutterstock

More than $5.1 billion in development projects were underway in Detroit in 2018, according to Michigan news site MLive. You can see the money at work all over the city, with a particular focus on downtown. The new growth spans from Woodward and Grand River avenues through Detroit’s Midtown and surrounding areas. Construction initiatives include Michigan’s tallest skyscraper, several hotels, residential spaces, eateries, a business school, parks, entertainment, and a healthcare facility. Many of these structures were developed in previously abandoned spaces and created thousands of new jobs for the city.

Detroiters are especially excited about the Henry Ford Pistons Performance Center, a $90 million state-of-the-art training center and corporate headquarters located on Amsterdam Street. The Performance Center is now the largest of its kind in the NBA and in addition to being the team’s practice facility, it houses a spacious weight room, full-service kitchen with personal chefs, and media rooms for the players. It is also a phenomenal opportunity for the community as the Performance Center’s grocery (Plum Market), fitness, and retail shops are open to the public.

Experience public art that reflects the soul of the city.

Photo: JHVEPhoto/Shutterstock

Those with an artistic mind will be profoundly drawn to Tyree Guyton’s famous multi award-winning outdoor art environment, the Heidelberg Project, located on Detroit’s East Side, opened in 1988. Guyton envisioned transforming the vacant lots and abandoned houses in the neighborhood where he once grew up. While wandering among the piles of lonely suitcases dreaming of adventures, you’ll pass a larger-than life Homer Simpson, dozens of forgotten shoes hanging on a fence, a shopping cart filled with old electronics, and a discarded doll that stares back with forlorn eyes. Perhaps the most eye-popping element of the environment, however, is the two-story house painted with huge, colorful polka dots. His vision of the Heidelberg Project is to inspire people to appreciate and use art to enrich their lives and to improve the social and economic health of the community. A sign reads, “We give paint brushes instead of guns.”

Tour an art project underneath an underpass and another celebrating Motown.

Photo: James R. Martin/Shutterstock

If you are traveling by car or foot near the ill-lit Cass Avenue railroad viaduct, you might question passing through it. Artists Becky Nix and Olek Zemplinski recognized the problem and in 2015 they won a proposal to create a more cheerful and welcoming experience for pedestrians and motorists crossing between the neighborhoods. Entitled “Reflector,” the project transformed the once foreboding and dark underpass into a sea of reflecting light as vehicle headlights shine on the 7,500 reflectors attached to the walls and ceiling.

Hitsville U.S.A., inside the Motown Museum, embodies Detroit’s history, love, and triumph all in one inspiring locale. The museum was founded by Esther Gordy Edwards in 1985 as a destination for music lovers across the US. You’ll stand on hallowed ground in Studio A where artists like the Supremes sang their famous song, “Stop in the Name of Love,” and other greats like The Temptations, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, Jackson 5, and Miracles and Marvelettes recorded their songs. Some of the original instruments and equipment used in some of Motown’s most famous recordings are still here to admire. No other record company in history created such an influence on popular music and culture with more than 180 number-one hit songs worldwide, which is even more inspiring when noting that Berry Gordy began Motown Records Corporation in 1959 with just $800.

Because Hitsville U.S.A. is such a hit with visitors, the museum is currently in the middle of a 50,000-square-foot expansion project that once completed will include interactive exhibits, performance theater, recording studios, a gift shop, and meeting spaces.


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Rights of nature laws around world

With every new headline relaying the detrimental effects of climate change, it can be easy to overlook the positive climate news that filters through our feed each week. There is good being done on the environment’s behalf, with nature increasingly being afforded legal rights of its own. A number of ecosystems around the world have been declared living entities by local or federal courts, many of them also granted personhood, and laws are being codified to manage, conserve, and protect the natural environment. From Australia to the Americas, these seven countries have set the world stage with landmark cases concerning the rights of nature.

1. Ecuador

Photo: Fotos593/Shutterstock

In Ecuador, nature is known as Pachamama, a loose translation of Mother Earth from the Inca fertility goddess of the same name. In 2008, the nation famous for being a launch point for the Galapagos Islands, one of the original 12 UNESCO World Heritage sites, made history by becoming the first country in the world to ratify a constitution amended to include nature’s rights.

Article 71 of the redrafted constitution states that Pachamama not only has the right to exist but also to have its “maintenance and regeneration of its life cycles, structures, functions, and evolutionary processes” respected. In 2011, this new constitutional decree was put to the test when Richard Frederick Wheeler and Eleanor Geer Huddle filed a lawsuit against the Provincial Government of Loja, a city in southern Ecuador. It was filed on behalf of the Vilcabamba River, which had suffered from debris buildup from a road-widening project. The court ruled in favor of the river, marking the first time Pachamama’s rights were legally upheld.

2. New Zealand

Photo: Gabor Kovacs Photography/Shutterstock

In 2017, New Zealand made news for granting the Whanganui River the legal rights of a human being. Though the courts only recently recognized the river as a living entity, New Zealand’s indigenous Maori have long considered the river, or Te Awa Tupua, as being endowed with a spirit and have been fighting for its rights accordingly. Now, treating the river as if it were a Maori ancestor, the 2017 Te Awa Tupua (Whanganui River Claims Settlement) Act describes it as “an indivisible and living whole…comprising all its physical and metaphysical elements.” This includes not only its waters but also the riverbed and its flora, subsoil, and the airspace overhead.

The river has also been recognized as being “inalienable” from the iwi, hapū, and traditional Maori owners, who are in part responsible for its “health and wellbeing.” Legally, two representatives, one governmental and the other indigenous, will together represent the river.

Though it was widely covered, the Whanganui River was neither the first nor last natural body to be granted legal rights. In 2014, Te Urewera National Park on the east coast of the North Island, territory that traditionally belonged to the Tūhoe tribe, earned its status for being “ancient and enduring, a fortress of nature, alive with history,” and “a place of spiritual value, with its own mana and mauri,” as well as being a cultural and ecological wonder. Later, in 2018, Mount Taranaki on the North Island’s west coast became yet another rights-of-nature success story.

3. Colombia

Photo: Rafal Cichawa/Shutterstock

Colombia too plays host to a river that’s considered a person in the eyes of the law. In 2017, the country’s Constitutional Court approved legal rights for the Atrato River, near the Panama border, citing the precedent set in New Zealand. The court’s decision was a major win for the river and its ecosystems, which had been threatened by mining in the area.

Colombia did not stop at the Atrato, however. The following year, the Supreme Court of Colombia also acknowledged the legal rights of the Amazon’s ecosystems, claiming that the Colombian Amazon was entitled to “protection, conservation, maintenance, and restoration.” Twenty-five citizens aged seven to 25 filed the lawsuit, encouraged to take matters into their own hands in the face of deforestation. Since then, the La Plata and Cauca rivers have also had their legal status upgraded, as has the Páramo de Pisba ecosystem in the high Andes.

4. Australia

Photo: Nils Versemann/Shutterstock

September 2017 saw yet another river legally declared a living entity: the Yarra River in Victoria, Australia. It was a landmark decision not only for advancing the country’s natural rights but also for Australia’s Aboriginal population, notably the Wurundjeri people of the Yarra River Valley who also played a hand in devising the Yarra River Protection (Wilip-gin Birrarung murron) Act. Wilip-gin Birrarung roughly translates to, “Keep the Yarra alive.”

Unlike the Whanganui River or, briefly, the Ganges, the Yarra River has not been named a legal person nor assigned a legal guardian. Instead, the act recognizes the river’s rights as a living entity and calls for the implementation of a plan for its maintenance, protection, and preservation. It also established a 12-person council, two seats of which are reserved for Wurundjeri nominations, to advocate for the river and advise the environment minister.

5. United States

Photo: Charlene Doyle/Shutterstock

Dozens of communities across the United States have codified rights-of-nature laws over the past decade. Tamaqua Borough, Pennsylvania, became the first in 2006, not only in the US but also the world. Together with the Community Environmental Legal Defense Fund, the coal region municipality passed an ordinance recognizing the rights of the area’s ecosystems, which were being degraded by sewage sludge being dumped on farmland.

In the years since, other Pennsylvania communities, as well as those from Maine to New Mexico, have taken Tamaqua Borough’s lead, or at least attempted to. In 2010, about 250 west Pittsburgh residents unanimously voted in favor of a law that enforced the environment’s right to be free from fracking pollution. In 2018, the White Earth Band of Ojibwe from northwestern Minnesota argued for the rights of manoomin, or wild rice, which included the rights to clean water, regeneration, and protection from contamination and pollution.

Not all cases have been successful, however. Last February, for example, the people of Toledo, Ohio, adopted a Bill of Rights designed to protect Lake Erie with Toledoans acting as the lake’s custodians. The next day, a farmer filed a lawsuit on the grounds that the Lake Erie Bill of Rights was neither constitutional nor legally sustainable. The lawsuit is still pending.

6. Bangladesh

Photo: Md. Hasanul Banna/Shutterstock

Last year, Bangladesh did one better than granting an individual river personhood. In July of 2019, the Supreme Court proclaimed all of the rivers in Bangladesh to be alive and entitled to legal rights. The South Asian nation is famously home to several hundred rivers that are essential to local lives. Countless communities have settled on the banks of the country’s rivers, relying on their waters for fishing and farming, an issue both compounding and being impacted by worsening pollution. Though environmentalists have celebrated the move, others have criticized it for encouraging evictions as a fix to the human-encroachment problem.

7. India

Photo: Mivr/Shutterstock

Shortly after New Zealand’s courts ruled in favor of the Whanganui River, the high court in the mountainous state of Uttarakhand in northern India ruled that the Ganges and Yumana rivers deserved legal rights and protections. The Ganges is considered sacred according to Hinduism, used in both holy rituals like cremations and daily chores like washing. As a result, it has become heavily polluted to the point of being toxic. The local government presented a case to the Indian Supreme Court following the ruling in Uttarakhand, claiming that it was not executable and questioning who would be responsible in the event of a drowning. The Uttarakhand High Court’s decision was ultimately overturned, reversing the status of the Ganges and Yumana.

Steadfast in its commitment to changing the relationship between man and nature, the Uttarakhand High Court has since ruled that the animal kingdom should be considered a legal entity and the people of the state its legal guardians. According to the court, all animals, which include both “avian and aquatic” species, have the right to a livable habitat. The ruling has also included agricultural regulations regarding the treatment of farm animals.


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Free snowboarding on A Day For Jake

Burton, the snowboard and clothing brand founded by the “father of snowboarding,” announced Wednesday that it will host a memorial for Jake Burton on Friday, March 13. As the man who brought snowboarding to the masses surely would have wanted his memorial to happen, it’s going to take place on slopes all over the world. Thirteen ski resorts will welcome riders with free lift tickets and a commemorative wristband on March 13, in an event dubbed “A Day For Jake.”

“Jake Burton Carpenter’s vision was to bring snowboarding to all,” the company said via the event’s website. “His dream, his perseverance and his generosity were his gift to the world. As an industry, and as a community we come together for this day to remember, reflect and ride. Together we open our doors and open our hearts to carry Jake’s spirit forward; to share our love of the mountains and the joy of a perfect turn.”

Riders must register to participate, and will receive a confirmation email from Burton that their ticket can be claimed at their specified resort’s ticket window on the day of the event. Participating ski areas in the US include:

Bear and Boreal mountains in California
Big Sky in Montana
Copper Mountain in Colorado
Stratton in Vermont
Snoqualmie in Washington
Boyne Mountain in Michigan

Resorts in Italy, Japan, Canada, Austria, France, and Switzerland are also participating.


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Ride-hailing polluting more

You might believe that foregoing your own vehicle for a ride-hailing service is beneficial for the environment, but according to a new study, that’s not exactly the case. The Union of Concerned Scientists just released new data that shows ride-hailing trips generate about 69 percent more climate pollution on average than the trips they replace, including public transportation, biking, and walking.

According to the report by the Union of Concerned Scientists, “For ride-hailing to contribute to better climate and congestion outcomes, trips must be pooled and electric, displace single-occupancy car trips more often, and encourage low-emissions modes such as mass transit, biking, and walking.” The study explains that “a non-pooled ride-hailing trip generates about 47 percent greater emissions than does a private car trip in a vehicle of average fuel efficiency.”

Both Uber and Lyft have spearheaded new initiatives to tackle their carbon footprint, including public transportation scheduling and ticketing features within their apps, driver incentive programs to encourage the use of cleaner vehicles, and EV and hybrid vehicle options for passengers. But they need to do more, the report explains.

Lyft, however, isn’t buying into the data. In response to the report, a spokesperson from Lyft said, “This report, like many before it, makes misleading claims about rideshare.” Uber is taking a more conciliatory approach, issuing a statement that said, “We will continue to invest in products and advocate for policies that reduce car ownership, promote more pooled trips and support greater adoption of bikes, scooters, green vehicles and the use of public transit.”


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The best coffee shops in Madrid

Spaniards love good food, a good siesta, and good company. But, in recent years, good coffee has steamed its way into their hearts and stomachs as well. You’ll find people in Madrid relaxing with a small cup of coffee at all times of day. There are the older men who chat at the local bar with an espresso and a caña (a small glass of beer) and the university students who sip café con leche in hip digs. In Madrid, quality coffee is making its way up there with quality jamón, wine, and manchego cheese.

Basic coffee in Spain is often knocked for a process called torrefacto, which is when sugar is added in the last stages of coffee roasting, giving the beans a sticky, black coating. While it was developed to preserve beans, it also adds a burned and very bitter taste without any of the nuances of specialty coffee. The method became widespread in Spain during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s when coffee was hard to come by. To counteract the shortage, companies adopted the torrefacto method to produce longer-lasting coffee made with lower quality beans. It also didn’t hurt that the sugar added to the coffee’s weight, thereby increasing the production volume without the cost of additional beans. Over time, this dark, bitter coffee became the norm in Spain, and it’s still popular in stores and cafes today. While Spain has always been known for its gastronomy and fine wine, it seemed good coffee was simply pushed aside.

But things have changed over the past five years. Small coffee shops now work with single-origin beans, seek out unique flavors, and experiment with different roasting techniques. Great tasting coffee isn’t out of reach. Today, the northern neighborhoods of Madrid are bursting with independent roasters, top-notch cafes, and a diversity of coffee drinks.

These are the five coffee shops to try in Madrid for a taste of modern Spanish coffee.

1. Toma Café

Photo: TOMA CAFÉ/Facebook

Toma makes so many lists on Madrid’s best coffee for good reason. It opened in 2011, and many other reputable coffee shop owners and roasters got their start at Toma. Located in the trendy Malasaña neighborhood, Toma has coffee and tea drinks, as well as gluten-free pastries, breakfast, and lunch items. The baristas are friendly and knowledgeable about the daily roasts and coffee options, and it’ll be hard to find something you don’t like.

What to order: Cappuccino with orange foam and the salty caramel latte

Where: Calle de la Palma, 49, 28004 Madrid, Spain

2. Randall Coffee Roasters

Photo: Randall Coffee/Facebook

Open since 2014, Randall Coffee Roasters was one of the first roasters in Madrid, and its popularity has only grown since then. The baristas are knowledgeable about the coffees, and only the best is on the menu. Like cascara, for example, which is the dried skin from the coffee fruit that has a sweet, cherry flavor.

What to order: Single-origin espresso (solo or con leche) and cascara tea

Where to go: Calle de Vallehermoso, 36, 28015 Madrid, Spain

3. Hola Coffee

Photo: Hola Coffee/Facebook

Located in Lavapiés, Hola Coffee is another popular spot mentioned among the best spots for coffee in Madrid. Hola Coffee features brews from its own roastery as well as those from guest roasters. For someone who likes their coffee light and sweet, the filtered single-origin coffee is smooth and delightful, even without cream or sugar. Don’t overlook the seasonal coffee selection, though, for originality and a perfect balance of flavors.

What to order: Filtered single-origin coffee and the seasonal coffees (especially if the ginger butterscotch latte is on the menu)

Where: Calle del Dr. Fourquet, 33, 28012 Madrid, Spain

4. Bianchi Kiosko

Photo: Bianchi kiosko caffé/Facebook

It’s easy to accidentally walk past this hole-in-the-wall, but don’t be fooled by its small size. International-DJ-turned-cafe-owner Sandro Bianchi takes great care to serve high-quality coffee and music to his customers at Bianchi Kiosko. The beans are from around the world and roasted in a small Madrid roastery. The cafe has compostable to-go cups, organic options, and an adorable hairless dog named Tu-Pac as its unofficial mascot.

What to order: Cold brew coffee with lemon and a chai latte

Where: Calle de San Joaquín, 9, 28004 Madrid, Spain

5. La Bicicleta

Photo: La Bicicleta Café/Facebook

La Bicicleta is not only a coffee spot, but also serves breakfast and lunch, and it opens as a bar after hours. This popular cafe is always packed in the early evening, usually with students and workers looking for a cozy place to settle in. The baristas are friendly, the seating is ample, and the drinks are delicious.

What to order: David’s Vanilla Chai and the Shakerato (espresso and simple syrup shaken over ice)

Where: Plaza de San Ildefonso, 9, 28004 Madrid, Spain


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Kitchen Garden at Chatsworth House

To drive onto the grounds of Chatsworth House, in Derbyshire, England, at the edge of the Peak District, is to be transported. You leave present-day England the moment the tires hit the pavement driveway leading to the house, and enter an idyllic 18th-century oil painting of the English countryside. Fluffy sheep dot the emerald green hillsides and roam freely along the roadside like placid little clouds. The River Derwent runs through the foothills of the property, its current drifting under a stone bridge. In the distance, the house itself takes shape, a vision of classical elegance and extravagance. Tucked away in the upper left corner of the grounds, in the hills above the house, is the Kitchen Garden, a sprawling 3-acre garden where the estate grows fruit, flowers, herbs, vegetables, and leafy salad greens.

Chatsworth House is a magnificent testament to the wealth and status of the British aristocracy. Formidable 16th-century noblewoman Bess of Hardwick built the house in 1553. Bess convinced her second husband, William Cavendish, to sell all his property and buy the Chatsworth estate, and then became one of the wealthiest women in England and a friend to Queen Elizabeth I after Bess’ third husband was (probably) poisoned by his brother. Chatsworth is still the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, and is currently the home of Peregrine Cavendish and his family.

The Kitchen Garden’s crops

Photo: Simon Watkinson

The 35,000-acre estate is a pastoral paradise. The grounds include a waterfall, two ponds, a maze, a rock garden, greenhouses, and the stunning Cascade fountain, which revelers bathe in during the summer. The Kitchen Garden, however, is one of the estate’s highlights. Perhaps less glamorous than the home’s ornate bedrooms and marble statue gallery, in the spring the Kitchen Garden blooms into a collage of herbaceous scents and a full spectrum of color from lavenders and magentas to deep greens and purples.

Photo: Stefan/Kitchen Garden

Three full-time gardeners care for the vast collection of plants that are grown in the many beds around the garden. Head gardener, Stefan, says the Kitchen Garden is “roughly split into the cutting garden, fruit and herbs, and salads and vegetables.”

According to an exhaustive handwritten list compiled by Stefan and his fellow gardeners Sophie and Glenn, the Kitchen Garden grows 16 different varieties of blueberry and 10 varieties of tomatoes, as well as strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, figs, pears, apricots, and plums. Mint, chives, thyme, dill, caraway, chamomile, and rosemary are among its herb collection. Cucumbers, onions, radishes, brussel sprouts, eggplant, beets, celery, chard, and watercress cover just the beginning of the plants grown in the vegetable garden. A mini orchard at the back of the garden grows nearly 40 different apple varieties.

A brief history of the Kitchen Garden

Photo: DPC Photography

Deborah Cavendish, one of the infamous socialite Mitford sisters and known as Debo to her friends, is responsible for cultivating the modern Kitchen Garden in the late ‘80s. But 500 years before her intervention, gardens growing food for the Cavendish family existed all over the estate. Stefan explains that the first Duke likely established “productive gardens” around 1549. In the mid-1700s the third Duke built walled gardens, versions of which were used all the way up until the 1900s, when a lack of resources, likely due to the onset of two World Wars, forced the estate to abandon its upkeep.

Forty four years after the end of World War II, Debo ordered the restoration of the glasshouse and the construction of paths and raised beds in the area where the garden exists today. Over the course of three winters, the estate built up the Kitchen Garden until it opened to the public in the early ‘90s.

Photo: Chatsworth House Trust

“The 11th Duchess was a keen gardener, wanting to showcase all areas of horticulture and as self-sustaining as possible,” Stefan says of Deborah Cavendish. “She transformed an underutilized area beyond the stables onto today’s kitchen garden, utilizing existing glasshouses she laid out the structure and planted a wide and diverse range of crops.”

The crops grown in the Kitchen Garden are primarily used for the Cavendish family, who pay for the garden’s produce through a charity set up to maintain the Chatsworth estate. Any excess food not used in private kitchens at Chatsworth is sold at the estate’s public farm shop or is used in its restaurants. Any leftover waste is fed to the estate’s pigs.

Many historic estates in the Peak District, from Renishaw Hall to Heath House, support their own working kitchen gardens, but Stefan says it’s the scope of the Chatsworth produce garden that sets it apart. The Kitchen Garden grows some produce that is rarely seen in other parts of England, like the Passiflora edulis — passion fruit — as well as six different types of melons.

When to visit the Kitchen Garden

Photo: DPC Photography

Stefan says that the Kitchen Garden is productive year-round. When I visited the Kitchen Garden in October of 2019, a kaleidoscope of green hues had flooded the garden: Emerald bouquets of kale and cabbage with leaves like silk fans looked ready for harvest. Nearby, bunches of neon green parsley, mint, and basil sprouted from the ground in neat rows. The air smelled fresh and herbal and, even on the overcast day, sunlight lit up the gravel pathways between the raised beds. You’re likely to experience at least some of the abundance of the garden whenever you visit.

However, if you want to see a bounty of flowers, from lilies and snapdragons to tulips and Icelandic poppies, gardener Sophie says the best time to visit the gardens is from May to August, while most vegetables sprout in July and August.

Chatsworth House is one the most majestic sites in the Peak District, and the Kitchen Garden is just one small section of an estate that is full of ostentatious furniture, gilded architecture, paintings of prized hunting dogs, and an overall atmosphere of a once powerful and influential aristocracy that has mostly faded into legend in our modern world. It’s worth visiting for a peek into the private life of an elite family alone. The Kitchen Garden is different: It’s a simple, beautiful tribute to nature, just like much of the surrounding Peak District National Park. Built and cultivated by hand, the Kitchen Garden pays homage to England’s bountiful countryside and stunning natural landscape. The only thing that’s missing from the garden is the chance to sample its produce straight from the ground.


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