Matador Network's Blog, page 909

What happens if you die overseas

Morbid as it might be to say this, there is always a chance you might die on vacation. No, we’re not trying to be alarmist. Or suggest that there is anything, anywhere in the world, going on right now that might increase the chances of said vacation expiration. But to be totally philosophical, nothing in life is guaranteed, and on the off chance you or someone you love dies while they’re traveling abroad, it’s good to know what the next steps are to get your body home.

The short story is that it’s not easy. Or at least so says Matt Napiltonia, the former Navy SEAL and Army Medical Services Officer who now serves as the Senior Operations Officer for Global Rescue. Among other things, his company handles getting mortal remains transported across borders, and he broke down for us what happens from the minute you die to the time your body gets on a plane home.

Paperwork abounds when you die on vacation.

Dying on vacation isn’t a one-size-fits-all proposition. Some people die while climbing a mountain in the Himalayas. Some have a heart attack in a Paris hotel room. So the first consideration in transporting remains is getting the body from the site of death to a hospital. This carries with it some concerns, as some locales can be dicey places for retrieving bodies.

“Laying on the side of the road, (local authorities) might take you, but we do point of injury rescue,” Napiltonia says. “We have to think, ‘Do we go get the body at that altitude where we put more people at risk to get it or is that their burial?’ These are real questions.”

Once the body has been transported to a hospital, the next step is to contact the nearest embassy or consulate of your home country. The process from this point forward is going to be an endless parade of paperwork and administrative frustration, and while the consulate won’t do it for you, they can at least point you in the right direction.

“It’s a tremendous amount of paperwork,” Napiltonia says, “and the consular services officer helps with getting the mortuary certificate, the transit permit. If we run into a roadblock getting that from the local government, the officer steps in and helps receive that documentation.”

At the hospital, you’ll need to get clearance from the medical examiner before you can move the body to a funeral home. In some cases, this also requires clearing local law enforcement if they believe there has been any sort of foul play. While that’s not completely common, it can happen if someone dies under mysterious circumstances, and police must finish their investigation before the hospital will release the body.

Things also get complicated if you happen to die of some kind of infectious disease. In this case, the body will likely be quarantined, which will mean working with local health authorities to get it cleared as soon as it is safely possible.

“Depending on the illness, the body will be quarantined for a set time with the country’s public health people,” Napiltonia explains. “So, for example, smallpox, Ebola, botulism HIV, Hantavirus, those all require special handling. We have to work with the equivalent of Health and Human Services to get the transport done properly. But if you have Ebola or something [some countries] won’t let that body go intact, and they would cremate that individual.”

Assuming you die of something other than murder or infectious disease, your body will then need to be transported to a local funeral home, where it is either embalmed or cremated, according to the family’s wishes. This involves yet more paperwork and coordination with local facilities that can properly prepare the body.

Once the body is ready, you then need to find an airline that transports mortal remains. If a body has been cremated, some commercial airlines will accept it as cargo. If it hasn’t, you’ll need to find a special casket designed for carrying bodies in-flight and will likely need to use DHL or another international cargo carrier for transport. The airlines know how to handle all of this, but you still need to coordinate it with them.

And, of course, you’ll need to get the body cleared through customs.

“While you’re getting all your clearances, you must also get final government customs clearance,” Napiltonia says. “You have to notify the host country that you have mortal remains, and you tell them you have all your paperwork and clearances in order to get the body from point A to point B. And there’s no telling how long that all might take.”

This might be of particular concern for people of Muslim or Jewish faiths, whose religious laws dictate a body must be buried within 24-48 hours. This, of course, is not always possible, especially when miles from home.

“We’ve been fortunate to get folks transported and buried very quickly,” Napiltonia says. “But if there’s any police involvement or suspicious nature, that’s not gonna happen. Unless you want them buried in the country where they died, so the family has to make a decision. Do they want to honor custom and have them buried [elsewhere], or do you wait two to three weeks?”

That said, moving bodies is not always a logistical nightmare, even in countries where bureaucracy and government inefficiency are notorious. Napiltonia tells of a time when he was able to get a Muslim client cleared through Nigeria in 48 hours and on a plane home to the Middle East. But he also tells of times where he’s had to direct team members to drop all of their other duties and work 12-hour shifts for weeks to get a body cleared through local law enforcement.

The point is, the level of red tape is never consistent, so the relative frustrations and timing are unpredictable.

Obviously, using a service like Global Rescue — which sells memberships to international travelers who think they might need emergency services — is the easiest way to navigate through this unpleasant world of dying on vacation. But not everyone has that kinda cash, so it’s good to have a plan just in case. Even if you don’t anticipate a dangerous trip, talk through what you want done with your family and look up contact information for the local consular services office. Then trust that you’ll never have to use it.


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The post What happens if you die on vacation? appeared first on Matador Network.

REAL ID requirements and cutoff date

We get it. It’s tax season. And you can really only procrastinate one, big, government-required project at a time.

But we’re coming up on the six-month countdown to the federally mandated cutoff point to obtain a REAL ID if you want to fly domestically. And painful as going to the DMV is, much like taxes, cleaning your bathroom, and having lunch with old, ranty relatives, sometimes you just have to cowboy up and grit through it.

Because as of October 1, 2020, you will not, under any circumstance, be able to board a domestic flight if you haven’t gotten a snazzy new REAL ID. Period, final, no discussion. The federal government has literally given you YEARS to get this done, and if you can’t make it out in the next six-plus months to get it done, then nobody will have any sympathy for you.

Why do I have to get a REAL ID?

Same as why you can’t bring on a 4-ounce tube of moisturizer on the plane. Because the TSA said so, that’s why.

The real reason dates back to a federal law passed in 2005 to make air travel safer in the wake of 9/11. So no, this is not at all a product of the current administration, so if you were using this as some form of silent protest, your efforts are better spent elsewhere. It essentially mandates states produce IDs which require higher scrutiny to prove identification, and are harder to forge. States themselves are welcome to use whatever kind of IDs they want for statewide purposes like driving a car or buying Four Loko. But for federal purposes — most importantly air travel — the new ID will be required.

Why did it take 15 years to finally get this program enacted? Spend a day watching CSPAN and you’ll understand. The federal government makes the DMV look efficient.

My license is up for renewal soon. Can’t I just renew online and get a new ID so I don’t have to deal with the DMV?

That would kind of defeat the purpose of an ID designed to, you know, enhance security. So, no, you cannot. Even those renewing licenses will have to make the pilgrimage to the driver’s license office to get the REAL ID, so the smiling, friendly staff there can ensure the person on the ID is actually you.

You don’t need to take the driver’s test again or anything, and if you just want an ID card, that’s fine too. But your new ID will include a pretty star in the corner to show it’s federally compliant, or even a radio chip in some cases. This makes it harder to forge, and shows you’ve produced the appropriate documentation to obtain a REAL ID.

And what is that documentation? It’s actually three documents: Something showing your true name and birthdate (a birth certificate works, as would a passport or legal resident card); something showing your social security number (SSN cards are ideal, but if you lost that six wallets ago, a pay stub or tax return is also valid); and TWO documents proving you live at your address. Your cable bill, phone bill, or bank statement will suffice.

That sounds like a lot of paperwork. Can’t I just show them my old license?

What part of “enhanced security” is not getting through here? If you could just use your old ID, there would be no point in getting a new one, other than maybe trying to take a better picture. So, again, no. You have SIX MONTHS to round up four pieces of documentation. Aim to find one a month, and you’ll still be two months ahead of the curve.

Seems like everyone and their uncle Marvin is gonna be at the DMV when I go. Do I have to wait on those lines?

Did you wait on line for the new iPhone? The new Yeezys? Or free burrito day at Chipotle? Yes? Okay, well think of it like one of those lines, except instead of a $1,000 phone that’ll be obsolete in two years you get access to the ENTIRE FREAKING COUNTRY without having to spend 37 hours in a car.

But yes, these lines will be extremely long. If you don’t want to spend your entire day at the DMV, get creative. I live in South Florida, and instead of waiting at the Miami DMV I spent the morning scuba diving in Key Largo, then visited the DMV there on my way home since there’s usually far fewer people on line. If you can’t do dive-and-DMV, find a sparsely-populated area outside of your city and use the DMV there. You’ll spend the time in your car listening to podcasts instead of sitting in the DMV listening to numbers get called, and it’s far less stressful.

Can’t I just get on the plane without ID? I’ve heard that’s possible.

Hitting the superfecta on the Kentucky Derby is also possible. Is it likely? That’s not for us to say, and is completely at the discretion of the fine, blue-shirted individual to whom you present your boarding pass. I’ve attempted this with an expired license and at BEST the TSA agent will pull you to the side, ask you a bunch of questions, demand a dozen other forms of ID, and grudgingly let you through with a “renew your license earlier next time.” This adds about 30-45 minutes to your airport time.

That said, TSA can just as easily say no, and send you home. So don’t count on it.

What if I booked travel already? Surely they can’t just make me waste my trip because I didn’t get this ID.

Yes, yes they can. And travel insurance doesn’t cover procrastination, so you won’t get any recourse from Allianz if you are denied boarding for failing to show a REAL ID. If you’ve booked a trip already, you should probably get on that now. If you haven’t booked one, perhaps you should take care of your REAL ID before booking anything. Yes, the dopamine hit when you click “buy” is hard to resist, but it’ll be a hard comedown when the trip doesn’t happen due to red tape.

I have a passport. Do I need to deal with this?

No you do not! If you have a passport, that will suffice for domestic travel like it has for decades. Ditto for a military ID, global entry card, or other federally issued photo ID, since those already live up to federal standards. That said, when it does come time for driver’s license renewal, you’ll still have to go through this whole rigmarole, so you’re just putting off the inevitable. And as the old saying goes, what must be done eventually should be done immediately.

So I really have to go and do this, don’t I?

Well, if you don’t plan on flying anywhere any time soon, then no. You’re good to go with your current ID, and can drive with it no problem. But if you happened upon this story while researching domestic travel, then odds are you’re trying to get on a plane sometime soon. And if that time is after October 1, you should probably just book an appointment at the DMV and have total peace of mind, and the ability to feel all high and mighty when your friends complain a few months from now about not being able to travel because they procrastinated.

H/T to Walter Kunz, co-CEO of Fareportal, who clarified some of this info for us, in a far-friendlier tone.

More like this: Your ID might not get you through airport security this time next year

The post Stop procrastinating. You need to get a REAL ID, like, yesterday appeared first on Matador Network.

$2,235 reward for deciphering stone

If you were hoping to solve the French town of Plougastel-Daoulas’ great mystery by deciphering the inscription on its mysterious stone and claim the $2,235 reward, you’re too late. The writing carved into the 250-year-old stone that is only visible at low tide, has finally been partially translated.

The small town of 13,000 inhabitants received more than 2,000 requests to participate in the contest that was launched in May 2019. In the end, 600 participants attempted to reveal the mystery of the stone, but only two managed to convince the panel of historians judging the contest.

Two possible translations were offered. The first, by Noel René Toudic, suggests that the message is an obituary for a soldier sailing through a tempest, and never returned. The second, put forward by Robert Faligot, claims the inscription was left by someone wanting to curse the people responsible for a friend’s death.

The inscription contains around 20 lines of text, the carving of a sailboat and a sacred heart, and the dates 1786 and 1787 are also legible. It has since been confirmed to be 18th-century Breton.

The two hypotheses are still under review as some sections remain to be translated. Both codebreakers will be awarded the coveted $2,235 prize.

A version of this article was previously published on May 16, 2019, and was updated on March 5, 2020, with more information.

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The post The mystery of this French town’s stone inscription may finally be solved appeared first on Matador Network.

Nashville tornado music venue damage

The tornado that tore through Nashville and middle Tennessee Tuesday left death and destruction in its wake, damaging homes and businesses and killing 24 people. East Nashville sustained particularly heavy damage, with 140 buildings, concert venues, recording studios, and music businesses damaged. Much of the area’s music and art community was affected by the devastation, with several popular establishments left reeling.

The Basement East, a hugely popular venue that hosts both national acts and local artists, suffered a collapsed outer wall. The venue, known locally as the “Beast,” is now working to relocate or cancel upcoming shows, posting on Facebook that, “We appreciate all the love and support from the Nashville community.”

Symbolically, the venue’s “I Believe in Nashville” mural was left intact.

Photo: Michael Jude Grimes/Facebook

Several of Basement East’s neighbors in the popular Five Points district also bore the brunt of the tornado. Nashville-based singer-songwriter Mercy Bell told NPR Music that she was working at Rosemary, a musician-run bar in the area, when the tornado hit. “I stood in the middle of the street dumbfounded and heartbroken,” she said. “This was the neighborhood and community that’s given me my music and it was demolished.”

Fanny’s House of Music, a full-service music store, is also closed following damage sustained from the storm that left the building without power. The 5 Spot, a popular live music venue on Forrest Avenue, luckily sustained minimal damage, though it remains closed until power is restored.

The headquarters of Dualtone Records, just a block away from Basement East, was also destroyed. “Much of Five Points [is] in what now looks like a war zone,” said Dualtone president Paul Roper. “Amidst it all, we are grateful to so many who have reached out with their love and support. This music community is strong and that is felt nowhere more closely than in Nashville.”

Indeed, the community is banding together to collect donations for the tornado’s victims and to help repair beloved local venues. Singer-songwriter Margo Price is volunteering, delivering supplies to the Red Cross, while country artist Kacey Musgraves announced plans to sell her clothing and accessories to Stage to Closet, with the proceeds going toward tornado relief.

To make a contribution, you can donate to air organizations like Hands on Nashville, the Community Foundation of Middle Tennessee, and the Red Cross of Tennessee.


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The post Nashville tornado devastates beloved music venues, but community pledges to rebuild appeared first on Matador Network.

Cherry blossom bloom in DC

For a very brief window of time this spring, Washington, DC, will come alive with cherry blossoms. According to a forecast from the National Park Service, the National Mall and Memorial Parks’ thousands of Yoshino cherry trees will hit peak bloom between March 27 and 30, 2020. While many trees are in their early stages of blooming right now (stage three of six), peak bloom in DC generally occurs between the last week of March and the first week of April. “Peak bloom” is defined as the day when 70 percent of the blossoms are open.

It’s official! Peak bloom is on the way!! Make plans to join us at the Tidal Basin to enjoy the blossoms, and for the full schedule of events for the @CherryBlossFest from March 20-April 12. #BloomWatch #ReadySetBlossom pic.twitter.com/Nr67kVmxlJ

— National Mall NPS (@NationalMallNPS) March 4, 2020

Yoshino trees usually bloom for several days, though the length of the bloom depends upon the weather conditions. Cool, calm weather is more conducive to a lengthy bloom, while rain and wind don’t do the cherry blossoms any favors and late frost is simply disastrous.

The National Cherry Blossom Festival extends beyond just those four dates, however. It will run from March 20 to April 12, commemorating Japan’s gift of over 3,000 cherry trees to DC in 1912. The festival includes a parade, traditional Japanese folk songs, blossom kite events, and even Washington Wizards and Washington Nationals games.

A version of this article was previously published on March 8, 2019, and was updated on March 5, 2020, with more information.

More like this: Everything you need to know about Japan’s 2020 cherry blossom season

The post This is when the cherry blossoms will hit peak bloom in DC this year appeared first on Matador Network.

How to make hand sanitizer

Governments and experts are still working on a way to contain the spread of the coronavirus, but one directive is clear: Stop touching your face and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. If you’re not able to wash your hands (a dilemma many travelers face every day, virus or not), then hand sanitizer is the next best thing.

There’s just one problem: a hand sanitizer shortage. Stores and suppliers on Amazon are running out of supply, and the hand sanitizer that is available is going for ridiculous prices — like $59.99 for a two-pack of 8-ounce containers. This has led people to get crafty and make their own with aloe gel and the alcohol they have on hand. What’s on hand often happens to be Tito’s Vodka, and people have been showing off their homemade Tito’s hand sanitizer on Twitter for the world to see.

Which is where problem number two comes in: Tito’s, along with most commercial vodkas in the United States, is not strong enough to make hand sanitizer. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends a hand sanitizer with 60 percent alcohol or higher. Vodka is more often than not just 40 percent. All you’ll get by making your own “hand sanitizer” with a mix of vodka and aloe is a watery concoction that leaves your hands smelling vaguely of a lightly cleaned frat house floor.

Tito’s is putting in the good work and reaching out to people who tweet about using the vodka as a hand cleaner. For each person who tweets about Tito’s and hand sanitizer, the company’s account sends a reply of, “Per the CDC, hand sanitizer needs to contain at least 60% alcohol. Tito’s Handmade Vodka is 40% alcohol, and therefore does not meet the current recommendation of the CDC. Please see attached for more information.”

Per the CDC, hand sanitizer needs to contain at least 60% alcohol. Tito's Handmade Vodka is 40% alcohol, and therefore does not meet the current recommendation of the CDC. Please see attached for more information. pic.twitter.com/BxLUPjWFAA

— TitosVodka (@TitosVodka) March 5, 2020

The attached photo reads:

“Per the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), ‘washing hands with soap and water is the best way to get rid of germs in most situations. If soap and water are not readily available, you can use an alcohol-based hand sanitizer that contains at least 60% alcohol. You can tell if the sanitizer contains at least 60% alcohol by looking at the product label. Tito’s Handmade Vodka is 40 percent alcohol, and therefore does not meet the current recommendation of the CDC.”

It should be noted that Tito’s has no problem with keeping its vodka on your desk, as long as its used for other purposes. You can make your own little plane-sized hand sanitizer before your travels, just use 99 percent isopropyl alcohol and keep the vodka for drinking.


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The post No, you can’t make hand sanitizer with vodka appeared first on Matador Network.

Open-water swimming in England

Throughout England, ever more people are taking to the sea — and lakes, reservoirs, and rivers, too. Open-water swimming is increasingly popular, even in the country’s chilliest seas and in the cold days of winter. There are plenty of health benefits to swimming in cold water, but the pluses extend also to the fun of discovering a new location in a very different way. England is full of lovely, serene, and challenging places to propel yourself through the open water. Here’s what you need to know and where to go.

Swimming outdoors, even in winter

Photo: KKulikov/Shutterstock

According to Swim England, outdoor swimming had about 7.5 million participants in England in 2019. Of those, over two million people preferred open water, including lakes, rivers, and the Atlantic Ocean. Many of them are also taking those strokes in the icy waters of mid-winter. After all, swimming is one of the few sports that you can do by yourself. From seasoned swimmers to beginners, as long as you know how to swim, you can go for it.

As for the cold part, it’s a personal challenge for the mind more than the body. As long as you can access a body of water, it’s up to your mental strength to take those few, chilly steps into it. Just don’t spend too long in too-cold water. Those questioning their decision to swim around a frigid lake they can’t see the bottom of are often inspired by the known health benefits of swimming in cold water — which speeds up your fat-burning metabolism, increases oxygen optimization, and improves your circulation. Studies also show exposure to cold water strengthens your immune system and may even be good for your libido.

Socializing and a sense of shared experience is another big component to the growing movement. Nobody understands how it feels to swim in chilly water except for those who’ve had as many goosebumps in 50-degree Fahrenheit (10-degree Celsius) water. With them, you plan day trips or vacations considering possible lakes, rivers, or anywhere else you can jump in for a swim.

Staying safe in open, and cold, water

Photo: Jacob Lund/Shutterstock

Besides common-sense steps such as not swimming alone and not wandering far from shore, every place is different — so gather as much knowledge as possible about the location. Find information from the swimming national governing body, Swim England, or from established online sources such as the Outdoor Swimming Society and Wild Swimming. Contact local swimming groups or information centers.

Slack tide, one hour before and after high or low tide, is usually a safe time to swim as the water is unstressed by movement. Other factors to consider include whether or not there are strong currents and what the total depth is. Look into if there have been blue-green algae blooms; these can be very toxic, strong enough to kill dogs and send people to the hospital. Find out if there is other algae or reeds. While reeds are usually just annoying, they can potentially be dangerous if thick since you can get entangled. Likewise, pike fish might hide in them, and you want to avoid an encounter with a large school of pike.

Getting outfitted and into the water

Photo: Microgen/Shutterstock

The basics are goggles and a swimsuit. Don’t bother too much with anti-glare goggles unless you plan on swimming often in sunlight. Tinged lenses are more a personal choice; a clear view is preferred. If you aren’t a seasoned swimmer, get a wetsuit. Sleeveless ones give more freedom of movement, but they do leave the arms exposed to the cold.

Neoprene caps are very useful, as keeping your head warm is key for avoiding headaches and unnecessary heat loss. Make sure you get a comfortable one; don’t feel constricted by the chin-strap. Swimming socks and gloves are mainly for insulation. They may look dorky, but they come in handy when walking on pebble shores while the waves throw rocks at your cold feet. Seasoned cold water swimmers might wear these and a neoprene cap but no wetsuit.

When it comes time to enter the water, if you aren’t a seasoned swimmer, make your way in as you feel comfortable; don’t just jump in. Tread water close to shore and keep moving. Prepare to swim along the shoreline. Get out before the target time and warm up. Then go back in if you feel like it. Repeat as comfortable.

Many people feel uneasy about not seeing the bottom of the body of water, which is the common water condition in England in colder months. Currents kick up mud, silt, and vegetation. A simple solution might just begin by doing the breaststroke with your head above the water.

Where to go

It’s good to know where unique open water spots are. Since the Wild Swim website map shows quite a few of them, here are some suggestions.

Brighton, East Sussex

Photo: Steve Buckley/Shutterstock

Swim along the east side of the Brighton Pier, a cast-iron and timber Victorian structure. Unless there’s a storm, people swim along the iconic pie’s length every morning throughout the year. The pier juts out more than 1,700 feet into the sea and stands tall even over the highest tides. This stretch of pebble beach is long, wide, perfectly clean, and uninterrupted. Round rocks in shades of chocolate brown, hazelnut, and slate grey cause a recognizable and constant “thudding” sound when tumbled by the crashing waves. I find the rocks’ sound pleasant; I find the rocks themselves less so when they hit my feet while I’m walking in or out of the water.

The waves at the shoreline are always pretty sizable, so the transition into or outside the water needs to happen fairly quickly. Once you’re in and behind the shore break, the view of the pier above your head is an impressive contrast between the amusement park’s bright white buildings, colored flags, and the pier’s rust-colored pillars. The salty water isn’t usually clear, but on the days that does happen (usually in summer), we head to the submerged wreck halfway out. You can also choose to swim under the pier, as the sunlight above makes for mesmerizing light-and-shadow displays with the thick rows of iron pillars.

Loughrigg Tarn, Lake District, Cumbria

Photo: Mike Taylor/Shutterstock

William Wordsworth himself praised this mountain lake as “round, clear and bright as heaven.” Hidden at the bottom of a valley and surrounded by trees, the lake is easy to miss and a bit messy to reach from the muddy footpath and shores. The water is clean but murky. You’ll definitely need to wash everything once home. As the lake is small the water is on the fresher side. In order to avoid other people, or cows, and have the lake for yourself, I suggest arriving early in the morning, with the added perk of it also being silent — the water is flat with little movement. You will likely have ducks accompanying you, so be sure not to swallow the water. The lake’s margins are thick with aquatic plants and shrubs. Looking northwest, you’ll take in the splendid backdrop of the Langdale Pikes, with the emerald and shamrock hues of the rolling hills covered by patches of woodland. On a clear morning, you’ll savor the sky’s changing colors as the rising sunlight from the southeast starts shining on the Pikes’ slopes.

Black Moss Pot, Langstrath, Lake District, Cumbria

Photo: Jez Campbell/Shutterstock

Langstrath Beck (beck is Danish archaic for stream) is a three-mile hike from the road in a desolated area. Green grass blankets the valley and the surrounding hills. Under the sunshine, the grass brightens up to a sparkle if there is dew or rainfall left. The stream, at the bottom of the valley, suddenly falls into a ravine. The short waterfall creates a pool enclosed by vertical grey rock walls. The water is cold and clear. The underwater view is unusual as there are no fishes nor vegetation. There isn’t much current, allowing for true undisturbed immersion (literally) in nature as, unsurprisingly, the place is very quiet.

River Dart, Staverton, Devon

Photo: jennyt/Shutterstock

Because of the assistance given by the current, river swimming is many swimmers’ favorite — but the constant movement also means that waters stay colder. The River Dart is narrow and is here completely flanked by a thick curtain of deciduous trees. The crowns of the shorter ones, and the long branches of weeping willows, brush the water surface.

When the water level is high, swim by the narrow Staverton Bridge starting from its east side. It’s easy to walk in because of the rounded pebbles and rocks that carpet the floor. Swim in the morning to avoid having the sun in your eyes. Enjoy the view of the 1413 stone bridge, its dark stones framed by the round tree crowns on both sides. Swim underneath the bridge, as on the other side the river slightly widens, split by a small island completely covered by trees and shrubs. As you approach and swim around the small island, you’ll notice the greenery on it looks like it pops out directly from the river — a floating yet motionless green barge. It’s difficult to find a really deep spot, giving comfort to people who like to see the bottom. The water is usually fairly clear too, with the typical tannins’ brownish tinge from the trees.

River Trent, Anchor Church, Ingleby, Derbyshire

Photo: Simon Annable/Shutterstock

Walk half a mile from the hamlet to the river. The well-kept footpath ends by the abandoned Anchor Church, which is actually a collection of natural sandstone caves that were inhabited for centuries by monks and ascetics known as anchorites. The landscape is mostly grassy fields and crops; the uniform rapeseed’s yellow color is a common sight in spring. The riverbank is firm and grass-covered, so it’s an easy step in. The river is narrower and shallower, so the water is calm. While on your back lulled by the gentle current, enjoy the almost uninterrupted view of the sky as the countryside is flat, and there are few trees. This stretch in the river’s length is possibly the most desolated, and wind is rare too, making the place very quiet.

Additional precautions and safety information

Photo: ian woolcock/Shutterstock

Hypothermia timeframes are actually predicted fairly accurately, so know the water temperature and the most time you should stay in. If you ever start shivering uncontrollably, get immediately out and warm up as that’s the first stage of hypothermia. Just as dangerous is the potential of cold-water shock, since the abrupt immersion in water colder than 59°F/15°C might cause gasping, hyperventilation, panic, and vertigo. Don’t just jump in.

Knowing the water conditions is essential, including being aware of the area and the tides, especially at sea. (Tide variations can be huge in England.) Rip currents and rip tides, both localized water moving directly away from shore and difficult to identify, are similar but differ in parameters. The first ones are more unpredictable; the second ones are more powerful. Both are dangerous. Rivers and lakes can have quickly changing water currents too. Anywhere there is water current and a shore, there is an undertow. This is a water movement opposite the waves’ direction. It’s not localized; it’s a universal response in any large body of water. It’s basically the water going back out. Pretty sneaky, it can take your feet under you or even just hurt your feet when it moves pebbles and rocks on them.


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The post Open-water swimming shows off England’s beauty, and it’s good for you appeared first on Matador Network.

Where to drink wine in Hunter Valley

There aren’t many places in the world where you can enjoy a glass of local shiraz while kangaroos feed and play in the vineyards nearby. The Hunter Valley is one of them.

The Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s major wine regions, and it’s only a three-and-a-half hour drive north of the Sydney Central Business District (CBD). The region is well-known for not only its incredible selection of wineries, but also its relaxing day spas, exceptional restaurants, and premium golf courses like the Greg Norman-designed course, The Vintage.

With so much on offer and regular pop-up food, music, and wine festivals, it’s no wonder the Hunter Valley has become a hotspot for Sydneysiders to spend their weekends. Most people come for the wine but fall in love with the country atmosphere, kangaroos, soft pink sunsets, and the locals who make this region so memorable.

Editor’s note: A question on many minds is whether or not visiting Australia right now is a responsible, or even viable, option given the recent fires. The wildfires that have torn through the southeastern part of Australia since September 2019 have had an outsized impact on the whole of Australia. Supporting local businesses and the country’s tourism sector as a whole can aid in economic recovery.

Hunter Valley wineries to visit

Wine should be enjoyed, not rushed. Soak in the whole experience and atmosphere that each winery has to offer and limit the vineyards you visit to a maximum of four to five. That’s harder than it sounds when you consider there are more than 150 to choose from. Most wineries charge between $5 and $25 per person for tastings, which is usually waived if you purchase wine. It’s useful, but not essential, to call ahead of time and book with the cellar for your wine tasting, especially if you plan on visiting during the weekend. This way you’re guaranteed to have someone from the team and you might be lucky enough to try the occasional wine that isn’t usually available.

Photo: Ernest Hill Wines/Facebook

Ernest Hill Wines: Start your day at this family run winery. Stroll through the vineyard or enjoy a cheese board on the balcony while soaking in the sun and sipping on the award-winning chardonnay. If you prefer something lighter like a sauvignon blanc, the verdelho, which has notes of tropical fruit and early picked stone fruit, is the one to try. Don’t leave Ernest Hill without trying the Luna Sparks dessert wine, while the muscat is the perfect drink to open with family over the holidays.

Where: 307 Wine Country Dr, Nulkaba NSW 2325, Australia

Photo: Lake’s Folly/Facebook

Lake’s Folly: A winery established in 1963 by the late Dr. Max Lake, a surgeon, winemaker, and writer who is frequently credited as the man who started the modern boutique Australian wine boom. While Lake’s Folly’s wines are on the expensive side, you certainly get what you pay for. The two flagship wines are the chardonnay and a cabernet blend. While vineyards like Brokenwood, Tyrells, and Peterson’s might have more brand clout, Lake’s Folly is the quiet achiever of the Hunter region.

Where: 2320/2416 Broke Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

Photo: Brokenwood Wines/Facebook

Brokenwood: A newly renovated winery that’s less than a five-minute drive from Lake’s Folly. Here, you’ll find a contemporary fine dining experience with a strong focus on seafood. Alternatively, the lounge area serves lunch and gourmet bar snacks at Cru Bar + Pantry. Established in 1970, Brokenwood’s original block of land was destined to be a cricket ground for the local community. The owners, however, had plans to be self-professed hobby winemakers. Eventually, that turned into one of Australia’s most reputable wine labels. There aren’t many things Australians like more than cricket, but a good shiraz certainly makes the list. It’s worth paying the extra $15 for the premium Single Vineyard wine tasting option, which costs $25 per person. It’s a great opportunity to sample wines in the $40-plus range that have made Brookenwood so widely respected in the industry.

Where: 401-427 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

Photo: Gundog Estate/Facebook

Gundog: A boutique winery that most people hear about through word of mouth. It’s a visitor favorite, in part because of the premium wines starting at $30 a bottle. In 2010, winemaker Matt Burton was recognized as “Hunter Valley’s Rising Star,” and in 2015, he was a finalist for Winemaker of the Year at the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Awards. The smoking barrel red is the perfect shiraz blend and an excellent choice for all occasions.

Where: 101 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

Where to eat in the Hunter Valley

Photo: Il Cacciatore Restaurant/Facebook

It’s difficult to find a bad restaurant in the Hunter region, as most restaurants have menus that complement the neighboring wines.

Cellar Restaurant: Located just a short stroll away from the world-class Hunter Valley Gardens. At Cellar, you’ll find a fine dining experience if you have the budget to splurge on a five-star meal.

Where: Hunter Valley Gardens Village, Broke Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

Il Cacciatore: If you’re looking for something simple and cost effective, this Italian restaurant has a relaxed ambience with food focused on the fresh flavors from northern Italy. Main meals range from $36 to $42, and the traditional tiramisu is a must-try.

Where: 609 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

Smelly Cheese Shop: What is wine without cheese? The Smelly Cheese Shop is as iconic as any vineyard in the region. Whether or not you like smelly cheese matters very little — coming here is an essential experience to just spend a bit of time surveying the vast number of cheeses and delicacies available. Located across the road from the Brokenwood complex, nothing cleanses the palate quite like a delicious cheese board.

Where: 2144 Broke Rd, Pokolbin NSW 2320, Australia

How to get around

Photo: Andrey Bayda/Shutterstock

If you don’t have a designated driver for the day, the region has Uber and a variety of other car services. There are plenty of group tours to choose from, but Two Fat Blokes tours are great if you’re wanting to take the day at your own pace with a private service. The guys at Two Fat Blokes will pick you up from your resort and take you to five wineries of your choice for $800 for four people, with options for larger parties.

Where to stay

Photo: Château Élan, Hunter Valley Australia/Facebook

Tourists not familiar with the area often make the mistake of booking accommodation slightly outside of the Hunter Valley region in Cessnock. You’ll find most of the action is in Pokolbin, including a variety of villas and budget accommodation on Airbnb.

Cypress Lakes resort and Chateau Elan at The Vintage both provide guests with the perfect contrast between a luxury and natural outdoor experience. Both offer golf courses, swimming pools, spa facilities, and restaurants for those who prefer to dine in.


More like this: Why Victoria should be the base for your next trip to Australia

The post Kangaroos and wine come together at this Australian wine lover’s paradise appeared first on Matador Network.

Best underrated gay beaches

It’s no surprise that gays love beaches. With a hefty helping of vitamin D and the highly probable prospect of getting wet, how could we not? It’s no surprise which beaches we love, either. If you Google “gay” plus ” beach,” you’ll be bombarded with lists that never fail to feature the man-packed island of Mykonos, the gay fantasia of Fire Island, and all the other usual suspects like Barcelona, Ibiza, Miami, and Tel Aviv.

But as global opinions about LGBTQ individuals continually shift toward acceptance, queer travelers are finding greater freedom when choosing gaycation destinations. For those adventurous enough to stray from the pack, the world’s less obvious gay beaches still leave plenty of room for surprise. With little-known communities in far-flung enclaves, lakeside sanctuaries in landlocked towns, and beaches that get overlooked in favor of iconic nearby locales, these 12 waterfront wonderlands will be revelations for even the most experienced gay-beach expert.

1. Mi Cayito — Havana, Cuba

Cuba isn’t the first country that comes to mind when considering a gay beach vacation. The country’s LGBTQ laws are just like the 1950s automobiles found all over the island: antiquated. Still, there’s something romantic about Cuba’s old-school gay scene. With little available WiFi, gay meetup apps like Grindr are infrequently used, and cruising, that age-old pick-up technique, is still an integral part of queer life.

There’s no doubt you’ll find queer folks hanging around Havana’s waterfront street called the Malécon, but if you’re looking to meet locals somewhere even more scenic, head to Mi Cayito, Havana’s unofficial gay beach. A 30-minute drive east of Havana, Mi Cayito is a white-sand refuge overlooking the Caribbean’s warm cobalt waters. The beach is regularly adorned with rainbow flags and attracts a diverse crowd spanning all ages and genders. Here, protected by grassy dunes, uninhibited locals are free to be themselves.

2. Jacob Riis Beach — New York, US

Photo: DmitriyK2009/Shutterstock

Fire Island is touted as the superlative summer escape for queer New Yorkers, as long as you have the resources for a lavish weekend getaway. For many without the money or time to leave NYC, such an excursion is often untenable. Luckily, New Yorkers have Jacob Riis — an affordable, friendly seaside park on the Rockaway Peninsula in Queens.

To reach the beach from Manhattan, take a subway to the Q35 bus line and get off at Rockaway Beach Boulevard. The queer section, located in front of an abandoned hospital on 149th Street, gives off a distinctly Eastern European vibe (think Berlin but on the bay). On weekends, a sea of beach blankets practically stacked on top of one another form a non-stop beach party inclusive of all genders, races, and sexualities. New Yorkers are commonly known for their stone-cold sensibilities, but those personas seem to thaw at Jacob Riis. Between all the people dancing, drinking, and splashing about, it’s nearly impossible to walk away without making a slew of new beach buddies.

3. Playa Chihuahua — Punta del Este, Uruguay

Uruguay, a crowning jewel along South America’s Atlantic coast, is often overlooked by neighboring Brazil and Argentina. But with some of the most LGBTQ-friendly laws on the books, it’s high tide travelers start giving this destination the recognition it deserves. Punta del Este, a veritable South American St. Tropez, is Uruguay’s favorite beach-town destination with some of the most prized sandy expanses on the continent. For LGBTQ crowds, head to Playa Chihuahua — a clothing-optional magnet for queer folks located 20 minutes from the city center. Here, golden sands covered in a bevy of bare booties stretch for miles backed by fresh-water lagoons and patchy forests. In high season (December through February), gay men tend to congregate on the far right end of the beach facing the ocean.

4. Lokrum Island — Dubrovnik, Croatia

Photo: ARK NEYMAN/Shutterstock

Lokrum, an Adriatic island accessible by ferry from Dubrovnik’s Old Town, doesn’t rank high on the list of Europe’s most famous queer summer enclaves. Mykonos, Sitges, and Ibiza are all stiff competition for that title. Still, this outpost from Croatia’s mainland is perhaps the most idyllic. Nicknamed “Lovers Island,” this fantasyland attracts romantically minded travelers looking to sightsee without Dubrovnik’s teeming tourist activity. On top of exploring the remnants of a Benedictine monastery, meeting the island’s parties of peacocks and rabbits, and finding expansive views of Dubrovnik’s ancient city walls, gay travelers will be happy to know they’ve got a beachfront all to themselves.

To reach the gay beach, walk left from the ferry port until you spot a sign that says “FKK,” which marks the island’s swimsuit-free section. Make a right at this entrance, and you’ll eventually find nude men lounging on large slabs of dolomite rock and jumping into aquamarine waters from the cliffs above. It’s easy to lose track of time in this secluded rock oasis, so set yourself an alarm: In the summertime, the last ferry back to the mainland is at 7:15 PM.

5. Hippie Hollow — Austin, Texas

If you’re looking to catch a full moon in the Lone Star State, Hippie Hollow is the place to go. A 30-minute drive from downtown Austin, this limestone-lined park is the only legally recognized nude beach in the entirety of Texas. It also happens to be a popular gathering place for the local queer community. When the warm weather permits, there’s always a handful of friendly homos sunning their hotcakes on the cream-white cliffs jutting out from Lake Travis. For those who want a crowd, several well-attended LGBTQ events take place in the area throughout the summer. These include Splash Days — two queer events held around Memorial Day and Labor Day — and the annual Hippie Hollow Otter Fest, which attracts furry boys and their friends to the area.

Be warned — this an adults-only area, and all visitors must be at least 18 years old to enter the park. To reach the gay section, follow the series of steps down from the entrance. Once you reach the paved walkway below, take a left, and wind your way until the pavement ends. The majority of the gay community will be waiting for you on the rocks extending beyond the trail, but use caution. The rocks can be sharp and slippery; proper footwear is a must.

6. Hanlan’s Point Beach — Toronto, Canada

Photo: BYUNGSUK KO/Shutterstock

“Beach” and “Toronto” aren’t exactly synonymous. Summer in this landlocked town can make winter look downright balmy in many parts of the world. Still, the local queer community flocks to the waterfront at Hanlan’s Point Beach as soon as warm weather permits.

A 15-minute ferry ride from downtown, Hanlan’s Point is a come-as-you-are and wear-what-you-please section of Centre Island. To find the LGBTQ community, follow signs for the clothing-optional beach from the ferry dock. A gentle stroll through meadows, aspen trees, and along low-lying dunes ends at this swim-friendly Lake Ontario stretch of sand. While the icy water may not be inviting for most, it’s worth checking out this urban island if only for the jaw-dropping views of Toronto’s shimmering skyline.

7. Flaucher Island — Munich, Germany

Gay life in Munich feels provincial compared to the vibrant queer scene in nearby Berlin, but in summer, this Bavarian city offers access to a gay beach unmatched by anything you’ll find in Germany’s capital of cool.

Flaucher, a pebble-shore park on the Isar River, is a clothing-optional destination for locals looking to soak up summer’s sun. A mere half-hour stroll from the city center, the easily accessible section of shoreline attracts a diverse group of naturists. Like similar locations around the world, accessing the gay beach requires a little more effort: to separate themselves from the madding crowd, gay visitors must wade through the river’s icy alpine waters to lounge on the rocky island colonized by queer sunbathers. Here, meandering paths wind through scrubby woods and lead to a series of stone beaches. On particularly hot days, you’ll find men — both naked and not — sitting on the rocks and occasionally jumping in the river for a refreshing respite from the heat. The shape and size of these outcroppings changes as waters flow from the mountains, but the island’s forest (a well-known cruising location) is firmly rooted in place.

8. Herring Cove Beach — Provincetown, Massachusetts

Photo: Halee Burg/Shutterstock

It’s no secret that Provincetown is North America’s preeminent gay summertime destination, but finding the secluded gay beach still feels like an Odyssean quest. Although technically a part of Herring Cove, the section popular with gay men is most accessible from an unmarked entrance on 6A Provinceland Road near Bradford Street. From here, a 20- or 30-minute hike through spongy sands will lead you to two grass-topped dunes on the left-hand side while facing the sea. Be sure to know where you’re going — the path floods with waist-level water at high tide, leaving no discernible trail to or from the entryway.

For those brave enough to take the journey, the rewards are manifold. Bundles of boys congregate around the dunes to throw picnic parties with friends, wade in the refreshing Atlantic Ocean, and soak up the sun — many in the buff. If you don’t want to wade through deep waters, it’s best to visit in the morning and leave as the tide starts rolling inland.

9. La Playita — Quepos, Costa Rica

Located at the west end of Playa Espadilla on the western coast of Costa Rica, La Playita has a long history as a meeting place for gay men. Like so many other LGBT beaches, visiting this powder-sand paradise isn’t for the faint of heart. To arrive, visitors must first cross a series of sharp, slippery rocks. Once there, it’s imperative to keep track of time — the beach becomes inaccessible at high tide, so unless you’re looking to live out your Tom Hanks Cast Away fantasy, plan accordingly.

For those willing to make the trek, it’s well worth it. With a lush, wild jungle at your back and turquoise waters stretching before you, this is ostensibly the most picture-perfect beach on this list.

10. Bellevue Beach — Copenhagen, Denmark

Photo: tomtsya/Shutterstock

With summer temperatures ranging from 64- to 75-degrees Fahrenheit, Denmark may not be high on your list as a beach destination. Still, for gay travelers in Copenhagen looking to escape the city, Bellevue Beach is an ideal place to enjoy the summer sun. To get there, take public transit from Copenhagen Central Station to Klampenborg, a charming fishing village with access to the prized green pastures of Deer Park. Bellevue Beach sits just east of here, and the gay section — also a nude beach — is at the northern end past the quaint 1930s pier designed by Functionalist Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. The beach is most crowded in July and August when scores of boys try to soak up as much vitamin D as possible before the short-lived summer comes to an end. You’ll find most of them lying about the beach’s long stretch of soft white sands. Splashing around the chilly water is only for those with blood as thick as a Viking’s.

11. Middle Bay Beach — Hong Kong

Hong Kong’s unofficial gay beach feels like a well-kept secret. Sandwiched between the ever-popular Repulse Bay and South Bay Beach, this overlooked stretch of shoreline is inaccessible by public transit, so visitors willing to go the extra 15 minutes by foot can usually expect some solitude. The northern side of the beach is where queer action comes to life, but on warm weekends, you’ll find gay folks dotting the entire shoreline. Backed by a verdant cliff-side string of trees, escaping to Middle Bay Beach for even an afternoon can feel like floating hundreds of miles away from the non-stop streets of Hong Kong.

12. McIver’s Ladies Baths — Sydney, Australia

Photo: McIver’s Ladies Baths/Facebook

In 1886, this natural salt-water bath was built into the cliffside just south of Coogee Bay as a safe, shark-free swimming hole exclusively for ladies. Although it isn’t necessarily a gay beach — mothers with children, Islamic women who feel free to shed their hijabs, and straight gal pals all take advantage of the area — it’s well known as an attraction for Sydney’s sorority of Sapphic sisters.

The pool area, carved into the sandstone rocks overlooking Wedding Cake Island, provides women an opportunity to swim in whatever state of dress they find appropriate. Ladies lounge topless on grassy cliff-top perches, swim laps in bathing caps, or float in the calm waters while staring into the azure sky. It may not have the pomp associated with the gay-male-dominated North Bondi Beach, but that’s precisely why most folks come here instead — to spend some time alone with the ladies.


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The post The 12 best gay beaches you’ve never heard of appeared first on Matador Network.

Why you should visit Marquette, MI

Marquette is not exactly a glowing spot on the radar of the world’s top winter travel destinations. But for a growing number of outdoor adventurers, it’s becoming one. Located on the south shore of Lake Superior on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, the town of around 21,000 is one of the snowiest in the country, receiving a yearly average of nearly 150 inches that are preserved by winter temperatures that rarely sneak above 30 degrees — often dipping into the subzero range. But this doesn’t stop the Yoopers (UP locals) from frolicking in their frigid playground, and a person can’t help but catch a dose of the viral adrenaline.

I was invited to participate in the annual Polar Roll fat bike event in February, and found that in stark contrast to many ice-covered cities where locals spend the winter shivering and grumbling, Yoopers not only revel in their rare and robust forms of snowy adventure, but are also perhaps the friendliest Americans you’ll ever meet. Their beer and food proved pretty impressive, too.

In the UP, winter is racing season

Photo: Ryan Stephens Photography

Marquette’s regular winter sporting events include the UP 200, a competition that just celebrated its 30th running this February, in which 12 world-class dog sled teams spend four days racing across 230 miles of the Upper Peninsula into Canada; the Michigan Ice Fest, featuring top ice climbers from around the globe; and several cross country ski and snowshoe races. The race that brought me to Marquette was the Polar Roll, Michigan’s largest fat bike event. Launched in 2015 by 906 Adventure Team, a nonprofit organization aimed at improving the lives of children (and adults) through outdoor adventure — mostly of the two-wheel variety — the Polar Roll is a fat bike race taking participants through the hilly, wooded, snow-covered singletrack surrounding Marquette County.

This year’s event took place on February 15 and 16. Registration opens in early November, and fills up quickly. En route, connecting through Chicago on a small plane to Marquette’s wonderfully simple airport, I began eavesdropping on the conversation behind me. Its sentiment would become my own mantra for this quirky, isolated corner of the Midwest. The conversation involved a local man and a woman visiting from Pennsylvania. As they settled into their seats, the man asked where the woman’s travels were taking her and must have made a face when she answered, “Marquette.”

“Who would want to go to Marquette, right?” she joked upon seeing his reaction. Then she added, “…anyone who’s been there!” She was traveling to compete in the Polar Roll, which would complete her trifecta of 906’s endurance bike events, including a gravel race in July called The Crusher and a notoriously grueling mountain bike race called the Marji Gesick in September.

She would do the 30-mile version of the Polar Roll, whereas I was signed up for the 15-miler. A few locals referenced this shorter course as “the downhill race,” when in fact, it includes close to 1,300 vertical feet of climbing and a few short punches up hills steep enough to require post-holing on foot while pushing one’s bike. Increasingly popular, the Polar Roll sold out in less than 12 hours this year, capped at about 600 racers. This number included almost 20 percent women — up from 10 percent in the event’s first couple of years — due to 906’s efforts to grow female participation in bike racing by leaving registration open to female participation until race day.

Preparing for the Polar Roll

Photo: Ryan Stephens Photography

Although I am a former recreational mountain bike racer, my snow biking experience going into the event was minimal. However, after competing in Colorado ski town mountain bike races in which nearly every participant, albeit (mostly) friendly and respectful, ranged somewhere between super-competitive to full-blown bionic, I approached the Polar Roll expecting a similarly bloodthirsty field. After arriving into the nearby town of Ishpeming and borrowing a brand new and unbelievably lightweight Rocky Mountain fat bike from the trail-side West End bike shop, I joined the throng of racers who, to my surprise, reflected every level of athletic ability, age, shape, and size.

Yes, there were a handful of sleek cycling types who chose aerodynamic Lycra suits over the thick layers of outerwear most of us were wearing. There were also middle-aged women, teenagers, a few kids, and a fair share of tubby and bearded older men. I launched off the start line (while many around me meandered) and pedaled about a half mile through some hilly residential streets before the course funneled into windblown singletrack. Here, a few racers ahead of me immediately got off to push their bikes through this first stretch of narrow, soft trail.

“Come on, guys…step aside,” I called out, causing the poor woman in front of me to wobble and tip over into the snow. Feeling guilty, I surged onward nonetheless, buoyed by the amazing conditions of the course. The trail maintained a steady width of about 15 inches and was consistently cushy but not too soft — a factor that struck me as nothing short of a miracle considering the walls of snow everywhere, the high winds blowing intermittently, and several inches of snow that had fallen in previous days. The Yoopers, it turns out, are serious about maintaining their bike trails. So serious that two nonprofit groups — RAMBA and NTN, powered mostly by volunteers – regularly prepare 75 miles of snowy singletrack in and around Marquette using DIY contraptions such as a “V-Plow,” basically a mini version of a Nordic track grooming machine.

It didn’t take long to realize that I was perhaps the only racer — at least in the 15-mile event — who went into it with guns blazing. Everyone else was strikingly relaxed and patient. When one rider came upon me as I was fumbling up a steep hill, I hurriedly stepped off the trail, yanking my bike into a drift saying, “Go ahead and pass.” To which the rider replied, “Oh you’re fine. I’m okay.” At one point I pulled over to wipe the snot off my face and a pair of men stopped to make sure I was okay. Another eagerly asked, “Is this Hugs and Bacon?”

This was wishful thinking on his part. Hugs and Bacon is the aid station about three miles from the Polar Roll’s finish, manned by a group of local bikers, most with long, thick beards and a predilection for heavy metal. They hang out all day cooking bacon on charcoal fires and handing out other forms of nourishment like cheese, homemade coffee cake, Fireball, and hugs (upon request), all to a blaring soundtrack of Judas Priest. The stop was the perfect fuel up, both physically and emotionally, for the homestretch push.

By this time, my competitive anxiety had mellowed into a full body buzz. I developed a pleasant sense of camaraderie and warmth toward my fellow competitors and the course marshals who rang cowbells in the cold all day while directing everyone safely to the finish line. Here, 906 Adventure founder Todd Poquette himself rewarded each person who crossed with a custom-made sugar cookie featuring the Polar Roll emblem. Finishers rolled in all day — like, the entire day — until Poquette and a couple of others swept the course in the dark of night. The fastest 15-mile cyclist clocked in at record speed before many people would normally eat breakfast while the slowest participants in the 30-miler tallied around 11 hours of trail time.

“Our goal through our youth programs and also these adult events is to help ensure adventure meets people where they are,” Poquette says. “This race isn’t for elite people only.” He shares a story that set the stage for this ethos during the Polar Roll’s inaugural 2015 event. “I met this young woman on the course when I was out on a snowmobile at about 2 in the afternoon — nearing the cutoff. She was begging me to let her finish. She had the worst part of the course, about 14 miles, yet to go. She would finish when no crowd would be there and nobody was going to care, but she had to do it for herself. That creates the culture. We don’t leave the finish line until the last person comes home.”

Celebrating the ride and good vibes

Photo: Ryan Stephens Photography

After the race concluded it came time to check out Marquette’s other surprises, beginning with the after party. Marquette’s historic downtown is adorable and welcoming, with boutique shops selling locally made jewelry and crafts, many of its storefronts sporting toy dog sleds and antique Nordic skis. The Polar Roll’s after party took place at Barrel and Beam, a brewery specializing in self-described “wild ales” in a large chic barn outside of town, that was for decades occupied by a historic supper club. Additional local suds were found at Ore Dock Brewing Company, named after the massive steel structure towering out of Lake Superior about two blocks away that for decades processed one of the region’s most important minerals – iron ore. We eventually moved to Blackrocks Brewery, a two-floor converted residential house with a wall-sized TV screen broadcasting sports.

Photo: Ryan Stephens Photography

One of the longest continually operating candy stores in the country, Donckers not only sells a rainbow of sweet and savory delights but also houses a soda fountain and diner (its veggie and basil-filled omelettes hit the spot for breakfast). Café Bodega serves fresh, heaping sandwiches on homemade bread and arguably the best fish tacos in the Midwest made with Lake Superior whitefish. The Delft, which functions as the main street centerpiece with its large marquee, still operates as a cinema and serves creative cocktails and tapas made from ever-changing seasonal ingredients.

The shockingly warm vibe in this cold place confirmed what I’d heard from my fellow racer on the flight in. Should anyone ask why I’d visit Marquette, I will share this story — and add that I plan to return as soon as possible.


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The post This winter bike race showcases the warm culture of icy-cold Marquette, Michigan appeared first on Matador Network.