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Denali National Park itinerary

With the six campgrounds inside the park situated near hiking trails and high-mountain lakes, and the 20,308-foot Denali peak dominating the background, no national park in America is better suited for summer camping than Denali. This three-day itinerary is based from the Wonder Lake Campground at mile 85. On your first day, 5.5 hours will be spent on a bus. Pack for adventure because this trip takes you across miles of trail, topping mountains and lounging waterside alongside the way.

Day one

The first shuttle leaves the Wilderness Access Center, near Riley Creek Mercantile at the entrance, at 5:15 AM. You can book tickets online or the same day, as 35 percent of seats are reserved for walk-up ticket sales.

Grab a shuttle around 7:00 AM and you’re at Wonder Lake by 12:30 PM. Hop right off the bus, and lighten your pack by eating lunch at the lake. On a clear day, you’ll see Denali across the rippling water. It’s already 2:00 PM by now — time to set up camp. Wonder Lake is a fairly small campground with only 28 sites, so locating a spot won’t take long, with the bonus of being near the toilets and water pumps.

Photo: Lijuan Guo/Shutterstock

Walk on foot to nearby Reflection Pond. It’s 2.5 miles away, but remember, you’re hiking at backcountry speed, and there are blueberries to pick along the way. It will take a couple of hours to get there and a couple to get back. That’s perfect, as you’ll be there when the sun is lower in the sky. If it’s a still day, the reflection of Denali above the pond makes for one of the best photos anywhere in the park.

After grabbing the photo, walk back along the trail, though the nearby road is an easy option if you get lost. Back at your campground, walk up the hill to catch the late Alaskan sunset and one last view of Denali. Then, it’s marshmallow time.

Day two

Photo: inEthos Design/Shutterstock

The four main units of the park worth visiting from this campground are units 12, 13, 34, and eight. Units 12 and 13 are right next to each other, across the road from 34. Unit 8 is an entirely different area. Get to the crossroads of those first three units early in the morning and be ready for a full day of basking in nature. If you really want to come back on day three, you can. Since you’re just day-hiking, no permit is needed.

Hop on a transit bus heading east out of the park to Eielson Visitor Center. It’s at mile 66, so the bus ride is nothing compared to yesterday. It’s still a ride, though, so use the time wisely and ask the bus driver for some tips based on weather, time of year, and trail conditions. Once you exit the bus, collect your bearings: Unit 13, Mount Eielson, is just west of unit 12, Sunset/Sunrise Glaciers. Unit 34, Mount Galen, is across the road, just north of unit 13.

Start in unit 12, crossing into 13 if time allows. Head downhill on the trail from the visitor center to Gorge Creek, taking your time on the steep scree when the trail runs out. Eventually, you’ll hit the Thorofare River gravel bar, a permanent compass to be grateful for.

Follow the river all the way to Glacier Creek in unit 13. Here, Denali pops out of the clouds, making this a good place to rest, consume ample calories on the tundra benches, and take in the view. Then, head back into unit 12 to get higher up Gorge Creek into some serious alpine terrain before the day’s end.

Photo: Ludmila Ruzickova/Shutterstock

If there’s extra time and you aren’t exhausted, head into unit 34 for wide-open vistas and great views of the range. The best access is actually 2.5 miles west of the Eielson Visitor Center. Or, satisfy the need for elevation by climbing up Gorge Creek and getting closer to the glaciers’ edge.

Keep an eye on the clock as the sun moves closer to the horizon, as you need to catch that last shuttle. Be sure to hit the road around 7:00 PM — enough time to make dinner around the fire and get a good night’s sleep.

Day three

Photo: melissamn/Shutterstock

Today, you’re going to see an entirely different section of the park — unit 8, Polychrome Glaciers. Get up early because Polychrome is at mile 46, and the bus ride is twice as long this morning as last.

Once off the bus, notice the small creeks cross the road just west of the overlook, providing corridors that avoid brush south into the unit. Head their direction. It will be lunchtime by the time you reach the beginnings of the Alaska Range and the glacial valleys the unit is so famous for. Pick a flat spot in the tundra, somewhere in the fields of willow and deep blue Alaskan forget-me-nots, and spend lunchtime looking at all your options: Which ridgeline between the glaciers looks most accessible? Which one has the sturdiest hiking surface?

Then, hike up. And along. And up. And along. The vistas don’t get old, and as the sun moves and the clouds float, the colors change. Walk along the ridgelines noting all five of the accessible glaciers in this unit.

Where you are is about five miles away from the road, a decent trek back. Hiking down the scree slopes won’t necessarily be simple, and it’s windy here. Hiking with poles isn’t easier. But you take it slow, and the views keep you company. The road is in sight, and you follow the same gravel bars back to your stop, flagging down the next available bus.

The long bus ride back gives you time to plan your last Denali adventure: another quick jaunt up the hill from the campground for views of the mountain. In summer, the sun “sets” closer to midnight, and twilight lasts ages. The light on the mountain is beautiful well into the night. Stay up late and celebrate — all you have tomorrow is the trek back out of the park and back to reality.


More like this: How to spend the perfect day in Denali out in the wild

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Louvre reopens amid coronavirus fear

The Louvre in Paris has just reopened this afternoon, after being closed since Sunday due to coronavirus fears.

Workers at the museum had expressed concern over being contaminated by the thousands of visitors pouring through the museum each day and walked out after a meeting with the management and staff doctor failed to reassure them. Now that new sanitation measures are in place, it appears that staff feel more comfortable about returning to work.

The Louvre is reopening with a series of new measures in place, including distribution of disinfectant gels, more frequent staff rotations so employees can wash their hands frequently, and new staff protocol that allows them to stand farther away from crowds.

Just because the Louvre has reopened, however, doesn’t mean the coronavirus situation in France has improved. The government has temporarily banned gatherings exceeding 5,000 people in enclosed spaces, with the health minister even warning against the traditional kiss-on-the-cheek greeting.

A version of this article was previously published on March 2, 2020, and was updated on March 4, 2020, with more information.

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Chicago River dye recipe

Somewhere in history the color green became synonymous with St. Patrick’s Day.

Though early depictions of St. Patrick, who’s revered for bringing Christianity to Ireland, dressed the missionary in blue, Ireland’s original national color, it only takes a nanosecond at a 21st-century St. Patrick’s Day celebration to confirm that the color scheme has changed.

Green is the definitive color of St. Patrick’s Day today, which Irish immigrants in the United States evolved from a traditional feast honoring St. Patrick’s death to an all-out, monochromatic party. The beer is green. The big, sparkly shamrock glasses are green. Even a quarter-mile of the Chicago River runs electric green for the patron saint of the Emerald Isle.

The tradition began in 1962 when Mayor Richard J. Daley dumped 100 pounds of fluorescein dye into the Chicago River. As the story goes, the former business manager of the Chicago Journeyman Plumbers Union, Stephen Bailey, noticed that a dye used to track leaks stained a plumber’s overalls shamrock green. He shared this with Daley, who initially wanted to turn the whole of Lake Michigan green, and then Daley tasked officer Tom Rowan with dyeing the river. Rowan, a policeman responsible for the city’s patrol boats, brought in a co-worker, Michael Butler, and together with their sons, they pulled off the dye job of the century.

A Chicago Tribune article published the day after the stunt called the 1962 festivities “one of the most colorful…parades the city has ever seen,” noting that even the river turned “green with envy.” And it stayed that way for an entire week.

Today, some 400,000 spectators gather to watch the river’s annual transformation before Chicago’s St. Patrick’s Day festivities kick off. It’s a citywide tradition, but for the Rowans and the Butlers, the yearly dye is more than that: It’s a birthright.

Every March since 1962, members of the Rowan and Butler families have loaded into two boats at 9:00 AM on the day of the parade to create the city’s St. Patrick’s Day centerpiece. The duty has been passed down for generations and honored in rain, shine, and even snow.

At least one thing has changed over the years, however: Following environmental outcry over the original, oil-based chemicals used to dye the river, a new, vegetable-based dye was introduced in 1966. Forty pounds of this new dye is released into the Chicago River these days, creating a colorful effect that lasts roughly five hours.

What it is, exactly, that turns the water green remains a mystery. The select few involved in Chicago’s river-dyeing process have sworn the dye’s ingredients to secret.

Photo: D Guest Smith/Shutterstock

What we do know is that, ironically, the colorant is a biodegradable powder that appears orange until it’s exposed to water. Both Tom Rowan and festival officials have assured environmentalists that it’s non-toxic. The Illinois Environmental Protection Agency has deemed the dye safe, and the National Resources Defense Council has said that it’s not an ecological concern. Some have likened it to food coloring, not unlike the dye found in all that green beer.

Nonetheless, environmental pushback persists. Among the biggest opponents of the tradition is the Friends of the Chicago River nonprofit dedicated to keeping the river clean.

Photo: vichie81/Shutterstock

Though the organization has conceded that the dye itself may not be harmful, it argues that the very practice of using it fosters an unhealthy relationship between Chicagoans and their river. Rather than view the waterway as an accessory to be customized for cultural events, the argument goes, the river should be seen and respected as the habitat that it is.

A longtime poster child for pollution, the Chicago River has seen considerable improvement in recent years. In 2015, the Illinois Pollution Control Board improved the river’s water quality standards. Around 70 fish species can now be found in the river, where only a handful used to survive. Even river otters have been spotted again after roughly 100 years.

Chicagoans are unlikely to forfeit their shamrock-green river this March or any St. Patrick’s Day in the near future, despite the concerns raised by groups like the Friends of the Chicago River. Though it would comfort environmentalists to learn what’s in the secret, allegedly sustainable dye regardless of its environmental impact, maybe, just maybe, the mystery behind Chicago’s fluorescent green river is part of the city’s St. Patrick’s Day magic.


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The post Chicago’s St. Patrick’s Day river dye is a secret, sustainable family recipe appeared first on Matador Network.

The oldest restaurant in world

The first thing you notice about Sobrino de Botín is the smell.

When you enter the 430-year-old building, you’re hit by mouthwatering aromas of garlic, bay leaves, and slowly roasting pork. Botín serves some of the most captivating food in Madrid — just mention the cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) to a local and you’ll see their eyes glaze over and their mouths salivate.

But it’s not just the food that makes this place special. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, Botín is also the oldest restaurant in the world, and going there is like stepping back in time. When you eat at Botín you get a master class in Spanish gastronomy from a place that locals have been eating at for centuries. You might even get a glimpse of Spain’s king as he comes in for lunch.

The story of Botín goes back to the founding of Madrid. When King Phillip II ordered the royal court to move to Madrid in 1561, he transformed this small country town into the nation’s capital. The city had an influx of new construction, including the building that now houses Botín, which dates back to 1590. Today, the original 16th-century cellar is still used to store the restaurant’s wine.

Photo: Restaurante Botin/Facebook

In the early 1700s, French chef Jean Botín moved his family to Madrid to work as a palace chef. His nephew opened a restaurant in 1725, which took on the name Sobrino de Botín (Botín’s Nephew). Over the centuries, this tavern has served traditional, hearty food to local diners and famous guests like Hemingway, Benito Pérez Galdós, and Spain’s king. Famous staff have passed through as well — Francisco Goya is said to have washed dishes here in 1765 before he became a famous artist.

Today, slow-roasted meats are the specialty at Botín, and locals pack the house to try the cordero lechal (roast suckling lamb) and the famous cochinillo. You can hear diners cracking through the crispy skin of the pork throughout the restaurant as you enjoy your meal. The meat — the famed Segovia suckling pigs and lambs — arrives three to four times a week from farms in the nearby provinces of Sepúlveda, Aranda, and Riaza. Along with the ingredients, part of what makes the meals so special is the oven. It’s the same oven used in 1725, and legend has it that the fires that fuel it have never been extinguished.

Photo: David Pope

At the start of the 20th century, Amparo and Emilio Gonzalez bought Sobrino de Botín. They lived above the restaurant and worked alongside their three children.

The start of the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s put an end to their expansion plans. Amparo fled the city with the children while Emilio stayed behind to care for their home, turning the restaurant into a military canteen. The scars left by the war are still visible today, and the upper balcony, destroyed by shrapnel, has never been repaired.

Today, Botín is run by the third generation of the Gonzalez family, who returned after the war to rebuild. They have one of the most sought-after pieces of real estate in the city, and the surrounding streets have slowly started to succumb to changing times. Where once there were local taverns and mom-and-pop grocery stores, now there are tapas bar chains and souvenir stores.

But the Gonzalez family has survived and they’ve changed very little of their beloved Botín. It’s still an oasis of traditional life in the middle of modern Madrid, and if you’re not careful you’ll walk straight past without noticing.

How to visit Sobrino de Botín

Photo: David Pope

When the royal family visited Botín in 2011, they dined on the same dishes served to the restaurant’s regular customers. This is some of the best food in Madrid, whether you’re a royal or a commoner.

The meal starts simply: an aperitif of vermouth alongside brined olives. Next come plates of wickedly salty bacalao (cured cod), scrambled eggs mixed with chorizo and Spanish blood sausage, and, finally, the beautifully tender, crispy-skinned deliciousness of the roast pork.

Like most traditional taverns in Madrid, eating at Botín isn’t quick. A meal takes at least two hours, and you’ll see your fellow diners immersed in conversation between courses. Spaniards call it sobremesa: the mealtime ritual where you discuss everything from family gossip to the latest political dramas. It’s a chance to bond with your table over shared food, wine, and conversation.

You can book a table at Botín directly on its website, but a reservation alone won’t let you see the best bits of the restaurant, like the 300-year-old oven and the 16th-century wine cellar. Locals get to see these gems if they “know a guy who has a cousin working there” (why change the way Spain has worked for centuries?). But tourists can also get a glance by booking a tour of the restaurant. Look out for the experiences offered by companies like Devour Madrid and Insiders Madrid.

Whether or not you get to see the cellar, the kitchen, or just enjoy the best pork of your life, visiting Botín is a must. Just make sure to come hungry.


More like this: No trip to Madrid is complete without trying cocido madrileño

The post What it’s like to eat at the world’s oldest restaurant appeared first on Matador Network.

9 moments from a trip to PEI

Canada’s smallest province, Prince Edward Island, is the land that captivated Anne Shirley, the main character from Anne of Green Gables. It’s still a place that reads like a storybook, where lifelong Islanders are the characters and cozy seaport villages set the scene.

As soon as you arrive in PEI, you’ll notice you’re on a different kind of Island time. There are no pretentious resorts or overpriced margaritas, just centuries-old lighthouses, National Park shorelines, and rose-colored dunes. Get yourself here, and you’re sure to leave with some lifelong memories. Here’s a preview of what’s in store.

1. Climbing the Island’s oldest lighthouse

Photo: Shutterstock/Paul Pond

In centuries past, transportation for PEI’s inhabitants took place largely by sea, and lighthouses were crucial for safety, trade, and commerce. was the Island’s first, a red-topped beacon guiding ships past surprisingly far-reaching reefs into the Charlottetown Harbour.

The 175-year-old lighthouse is now open to visitors. Climb 60 feet up the narrow ladder and explore the small bedroom and kitchen where keepers of the lighthouse worked and lived. Grab a stunning view of Northumberland Strait and Hillsborough River from the twelve-sided gallery, and then head down to the small park for a walk on one of the short trails (you’ll get great views from these, too). Architectural nerds may notice something unique about the lighthouse’s construction: It’s both round and brick, a rarity in Canada.

Note: Point Prim Lighthouse is open seasonally.

2. Exploring the “Haunted Woods” at Green Gables

Photo: Tourism PEI / John Sylvester

Lucy Maud Montgomery grew up on the Island’s north shore, where she wrote about a certain red-haired, spirited orphan. Anne of Green Gables has been translated into dozens of languages, selling over 50 million copies. It’s quite obviously an important part of PEI’s literary history.

At Green Gables Heritage Place in the Prince Edward Island National Park, you can explore the wooded area that was the inspiration for the novel’s “Haunted Woods.” Walk — or dance — along the trail, search for the babbling brook, and see if you can spot the cemetery where the author is buried. Of course, one of the main attractions on these grounds is the green-gabled house, a replica of the book’s title setting.

3. Singing with the sand

Photo: Shutterstock/Vadim.Petrov

You can probably imagine singing to yourself while walking on the shore. But how about walking on a beach that sings back?

Go for a stroll at Basin Head Provincial Park beach and listen carefully for high-pitched melodic squeaks as you walk along. Once you hear the enchanted tunes, you’ll understand why Basin Head is called “Singing Sands Beach.” And with soft white sand that sings, you’ll also understand why this spot is considered one of Canada’s best beaches.

For the curious: The phenomenon has to do with the sand grains being highly spherical and largely composed of silica and quartz.

4. Biking the Confederation Trail

Photo: Tourism PEI

In the 1990s, PEI’s abandoned railway line was transformed into the Confederation Trail. You can bike or walk — or snowmobile come winter — along the “rolled stone dust” path, past waterside communities, over small bridges, between forest groves, and through fields of wildflowers for 270 miles (including multiple spurs). The gradient hits its max at 2%, making this trail friendly to small feet and strollers.

For a quick day trip, rent a bike in St. Peter’s Bay and cycle for nine miles following the shore toward Morell. Be on the lookout for wildlife, including the magnificent great blue heron, when you’re near shallow water. For something more challenging, go for the 33-mile stretch from Morell to Elmira.

5. Road tripping for spuds

Photo: Shutterstock/rusty426

If you pull into Charlottetown on an empty stomach, there’s one sure solution: dining on fresh taters. No meal in PEI is complete without a mashed, boiled, baked, or fried homegrown potato. Why? You’re on “Spud Island” now. This is and has been the biggest potato-producing province in the country for 200 years.

For crispy sweet potato fries, head to Peakes Quay Restaurant & Bar — they’ve got spectacular views of the Historic Charlottetown Waterfront. Otherwise, should you prefer a veritable quest to earn your spuds, go for a drive along the coast in search of potato stands on the side of the road. When in Rome!

6. Paddling to and through the Prince Edward Island National Park

Photo: Tourism PEI / Yvonne Duivenvoorden

Remember: You’re on an Island. The coast isn’t just there to look pretty. Consider going one step further and paddling a kayak or SUP board on one of the many (many) peaceful waterways, bays, and inlets for some serious memory-making.

When it comes to the Island’s best spots, a solid bet is North Rustico and the calm waters of Rustico Bay. Sign up for a guided tour, and soon enough you’ll find yourself next to the marshes and dunes of the Prince Edward Island National Park. You’ll splash past red sandy shores and lush green forests, sandstone cliffs and thin barrier islands. Pull up onto the beach and take in the scene — you’ve got some 37 miles of it to choose from.

7. Getting your hands on some Island Blue Mussels

Photo: Shutterstock/Michael Bleecker

All across Canada, you’ll find restaurants touting Island Blue Mussels from Prince Edward Island. They’re regarded as not just the best in Canada, but some of the best in the world. The tastiest are “cultured,” meaning grown in stockings and suspended on ropes — free of ocean grit, they grow plumper and sweeter. Wild mussels just can’t compare.

There are three main ways to get in on the action:

Check out a restaurant like Water Prince Corner Shop and go to town (Charlottetown, technically).
Hit up an always-fresh fish market and buy some to prepare at home. The cultured ones are a blackish-blue — tap on any that are slightly open to make sure they close. Throw them in a pot with some celery, carrots, onions, and white wine and call it a day. Or get fancy — crispy mussels , curry maple cream mussels …the possibilities are endless.
Plan a trip to Charlottetown in September for the PEI International Shellfish Festival — beyond the tasty food, the Tie One On Mussel Competition is impossible to forget.

The local oysters are king, too. At the 1900 Exhibition Universelle, a world’s fair in Paris, they were voted the best in the world — and PEI’s been on the shellfish map ever since.

8. Strolling through time at Victoria-by-the-Sea

Photo: Shutterstock/N.Bardin

Get ready to fall in love. Victoria-by-the-Sea, an adorable fishing village on the South Shore, is a living, breathing watercolor painting. Small boats and their reflections float in the foreground, bright flowers grow wild near the sandy shore, and charming houses provide the backdrop’s glow. The village was established back in 1819, and while it bustles in summer, it only has 100 or so full-time residents.

Check out the operating lighthouse, grab some handmade chocolates at Island Chocolates or a lobster roll from the Lobster Barn Pub & Eatery, snap a pic in front of the colorful fishing shanties, and just stroll along the red sand, picturing this land as it was 200 years ago. Here, that isn’t at all hard to imagine.

9. Watching the sun fall under the Island

Photo: Shutterstock/Vadim.Petrov

Before you leave, make sure you’ve seen the sunset over the water at least once (the sunrise works, too). Yes, everywhere has sunsets, and yes, they’re beautiful in a lot of places — but one of the wonders of this particular place is the Island sunset, and you’ve got to experience it to fully grasp PEI’s allure.

Though there are tons of great spots to experience golden hour on the Island, a particularly beautiful option is the Cedar Dunes Provincial Park. It faces the Northumberland Strait, its beaches slowly growing into groves of eastern white cedar. Come prepared with a blanket, sit on the soft red sand, and watch as the sky starts matching its color. Everything — everything — alights in orange, red, pink, and yellow hues. You’ll probably remember Prince Edward Island in these colors, like a painter’s dream, long after you’ve returned home.

The post 9 moments you’ll remember forever from your trip to Prince Edward Island appeared first on Matador Network.

Best Parc Astérix rides in France

Located roughly 30 kilometers from Paris is Parc Astérix, a sprawling theme park that has been open for 30 years. Though virtually unknown to Americans and other foreigners, it is beloved by the French as it is dedicated to a French icon: Astérix. Also known as The Adventures of Astérix, this cartoon and comic strip follow Gaulish warriors (aka French vikings) as they battle the Roman Empire. Astérix typically goes on adventures with Obelix, his larger friend with red braids, and their dog, Dogmatix. Astérix and Obelix have “super strength” that comes from a magical potion brewed by the druid, Getafix. The “ix” at the end of their names actually refers to real life Gaulish chieftains, but that’s one of the only connections to actual gauls.

I first came across Astérix and Obelix as a child. They popped up on PBS one morning amongst the other Saturday morning cartoons. My mother walked in the room, watched them for a few minutes, then popped in a video cassette to tape them. Over the next few years, I watched the tape over and over until my father taped over it with a soccer match. I hadn’t thought of Astérix and Obelix for years until I went to Montreal and learned that they were wildly popular there. A sales clerk, who sold me an Astérix coffee mug, informed me that there was an Astérix and Obelix theme park in Paris, which I vowed to visit.

What separates the park from other regional attractions

Photo: Parc Asterix via email

Since their premiere in 1959, Astérix and Obelix have spawned 13 films, numerous games, and multiple comic books. Over the course of their adventures, they have traveled to Egypt, England, and America. The antics of Astérix and Obelix are rooted in French humor — the characters are highly visual and undergo many coincidences.

Compared to Disneyland Paris, Parc Astérix is significantly cheaper. A one-day ticket to Parc Astérix is about $57 ($48 for children) while a one-day ticket to Disneyland Paris can range from $100 to $200 depending on if you are visiting both parks, the time of year, the day, etc. Granted, Disneyland Paris is two parks (and you can choose to go to one park) and is larger than Parc Astérix. However, since Disneyland Paris was designed by Americans and is rooted in American culture, it’s simply not as French as Parc Astérix.

Another difference is the minimal English spoken in the park. Last summer my husband and I made the trek to the outskirts of Paris to visit the park. While I have some knowledge of French, my husband has none. He was scared to visit Parc Astérix, especially as the cab driver spoke to us in rapid fire French. I managed to communicate the best I could, but the second we hit Parc Astérix I became concerned that my own French would not suffice. As we walked towards the entrance, where a large Astérix sat upon a giant rock adorned with a banner that read “30 ans!” I only heard French.

“Are we the only English speakers here?” Paul, my husband, muttered to me. He stared at Astérix. “Is he like the French version of Mickey Mouse?”

“Sort of,” I replied. I tried my best to order tickets but broke and asked if they spoke English.

“Yes,” the clerk replied. “It’s okay your French is bad. My English is bad too. We can all practice.”

How the park is organized

Photo: Parc Asterix via email

The park is divided into “lands,” each modeled after a different place that Astérix and Obelix had visited (alas there was no America land) and featuring a ride dedicated to their time in that land. As we entered the park, a large Obelix stood at the front gates, posing with guests for pictures. I immediately ran up to get my picture taken with him. Obelix quickly picked up that I did not understand him, and would motion for me to do certain poses, such as raise my arms up to show off my muscles. We both giggled as we did our best to communicate.

The first land of Parc Astérix is an entire recreation of their village. Thatched roofs, cobblestone roads, and numerous souvenir shops line the streets. A giant, goofy-looking sphinx stands on one end alongside a statue of a cartoon roman soldier holding a sign directing you to the nearest pizza parlor. Paul and I walked down the street in awe. We left the village, walking into a land entirely dedicated to Egypt. As an Egyptian-American, I was amused by the sultry Cleopatras, fake pyramids, and entire rollercoaster dedicated to Anubis. The Anubis rollercoaster, known as Oziris, is an inverted coaster that features three loops though it is not the only roller coaster in the park that seems to defy gravity. Goudurix is a steel coaster with a whopping seven loops and a perilous drop. There is also a bobsled coaster and a gentle train coaster designed to take you through the imaginary land of Egypt, both easier on the stomach if loops are not your thing.

Photo: Parc Asterix via email

In the show, Astérix and Obelix visited Egypt in the 1960s. Egypt land is a reflection of how France of the era viewed Egypt, something that would likely be flagged for cultural appropriation in America. We left Egypt land to enter Greece land. Popular attractions here include the Pegasus Express roller coaster in Greece land, named in honor of the winged horse in Greek mythology, and the Discobelix, where riders are set aboard a discus thrown by Obelix.

We then went to Roman land to experience the Roman theater reenactment. Both spaces are as stereotypical as Egypt land but, again, are reflections of the characters’ time there. It’s hard to be offended by cartoon cherubs and a grinning Zeus. There is even a land dedicated to Paris, complete with a mini Moulin Rouge and faux cafes.

Targeting broader appeal

Photo: Parc Asterix via email

There were a few rides that had no discernible connection to Astérix and Obelix, including L’Oxygenarium, which started off on a raft that takes riders through a gigantic nose. I was unsure if we were meant to be snot or if the nose was an inside joke only known to French people. Despite having no knowledge of Astérix and Obelix, Paul began to pick up their stories. Since French humor is highly visual, he giggled as the Roman soldiers crashed into one another and as Obelix let out gas after devouring an entire boar in the Attention Menhir attraction, a “4D” film of Astérix and Obelix. Numerous stage shows also happen throughout the day based on episodes and cultural notes from the places the characters visited.

While the rides and shows are quite impressive, the food is equally intriguing. Some options are no different than that at an American theme park, just with a French twist. Hot dogs on baguettes and slurpees are sold every few feet, as well as ice cream and pretzels. Some of the other dining choices were unique to Parc Astérix, such as roasted boar, Obelix’s favorite meal.

Even though we had spent the past few days visiting the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Notre Dame, Parc Astérix offered us the most insight into French culture. Tourists do not often visit Parc Astérix, so most of the people we met were French locals. The guests were families, teenagers, and loud groups of 20-somethings drinking French beers. While Paris offers the culture, Parc Astérix reflects French personality and charm.


More like this: Where to eat in Paris without breaking the bank

The post Welcome to Parc Astérix, the quirky French theme park tourists always miss appeared first on Matador Network.

Best Brutalist architecture examples

Along with the worldwide call for a more socialist approach to society and government, so has interest risen in Brutalism: a style of architecture that emerged first in post-war Europe. Though normally associated with communist East Germany and the USSR, Brutalism flourished throughout the world as it presented an economical way to produce grand buildings. Many countries took advantage, specifically for government or public spaces, and lots of the masterpieces of this era are still standing today. For travelers interested in Brutalism, there’s no need to relegate yourself to Eastern Europe and Russia; in fact, you may be able to find an example in your own backyard. If you’re not sure where to start, here are a few shining examples of Brutalism scattered all over the world.

1. Geisel Library, La Jolla, California

Photo: Sherry V Smith/Shutterstock

The Geisel Library, still the main operational library at the University of California San Diego, opened in 1970 as the Central Library. It was designed by William Pereira, a Chicagoan by birth who later made La Jolla his home. Pereira was an extremely prolific designer and had over 400 major projects to his name by the time of his death in 1985, though he is possibly best known as designing San Francisco’s Transamerica Pyramid. His work on the Geisel Library was the highlight of a design aesthetic that he spent his lifetime perfecting — one born of resolving humble, ecumenical materials into dazzling works.

Upon a mild renovation in 1993 it was briefly renamed the University Library, but it wasn’t until 1995 that it was finally given the name it still bears today to honor a long-time friend of the University, Theodor Seuss Geisel. As well as an act of appreciation for a number of sizable donations Seuss-Geisel had granted to the library over the years, the posthumous renaming of the library also intended to honor his absolute allegiance to tackling illiteracy, particularly among children. In his lifetime, Seuss-Geisel won an Oscar, an Emmy, and a Pulitzer, on top of publishing over 60 children’s books, of which he sold over 600 million copies. Though many don’t recognize the name Theodore Seuss-Geisel, his books have been translated into over 20 languages, and one of his many pen-names is recognized around the world: Dr. Seuss.

If you visit the library today, be sure you pay a visit to the Mandeville Special Collections and Archives, home of the Dr. Seuss Collection. This exhibit features hundreds of items from Seuss-Geisel’s long, prolific career and includes original drafts of his manuscripts, drawings, taped recordings, and lots of other assorted memorabilia totaling over 8,000 items. The collection has items as old as over a hundred years, though some were created as recently as 1991, just before his death.

2. Nakagin Capsule Tower, Tokyo, Japan

Photo: Manuel Ascanio/Shutterstock

Designed by architect Kisho Kurokawa and erected in just 30 days in 1972, The Nakagin Capsule Tower was created to be a residential building for Tokyo’s salarymen. The reinforced concrete frame contains 140 prefabricated pods that were individually craned into place. This meant that over the course of the towers’ intended life, the pods could, in theory, be renovated, replaced, and even combined to create larger, more permanent living spaces. Unfortunately for Kurokawa, his intentions for the tower were never quite realized: Though each capsule was intended to last about 25 years before requiring replacement, none of the capsules — nor the concrete frame — have ever been replaced or structurally refurbished in its nearly 60-year lifespan. But despite the building’s clear signs of decay, by the grace of some interesting tenant laws in Tokyo, the tower still stands in defiance to the much newer, much taller contemporary skyscrapers that now stand around it on the edge of the Ginza neighborhood.

Though it has faced near-demolition several times over the years, Tokyo resident Tatsuyuki Maeda has spearheaded current preservation efforts and himself owns 15 capsules. He is motivated by the realization that life in 2020 and beyond has finally embraced a lifestyle that Nakagin aimed to glorify; in a new world of tiny houses and #vanlife, the lessons of Nakagin’s cocoon-like living spaces may be more important than ever. Though Nakagin’s fate is still uncertain, Maeda is confident that the tower can be restored, most likely via private funding. The Japanese government, specifically those in charge of the preservation of post-war and modernist architecture in the country, has accomplished little to preserve this rich design heritage. “The preservation of modern architecture is basically a failure,” Maeda said. “Japan is inevitably trapped in a scrap-and-build culture.”

Though visitors to the tower cannot expect to get past the lobby by simply turning up, you can arrange a tour in advance, the proceeds of which go directly to the Nakagin Capsule Tower Preservation & Restoration Project, which aims to restore the building to its former glory thus fulfilling the dream of its creator. If you’ve always wanted to see Nakagin, please hesitate no longer: If Maeda is unsuccessful in securing private investment, it could be demolished as early as this year.

3. Marina City, Chicago, Illinois

Photo: BorisVetshev/Shutterstock

Possibly the most successful of Bertrand Goldberg’s many architectural projects, the Marina City Towers still stand today a much-admired residential address just north of the Chicago Loop and were the tallest concrete structures in the world at the time. It is generally considered the first major gentrifying project in the United States as it attracted upper-class clientele back into Chicago’s inner city. First opened in 1963, it originally housed an ice skating rink, a bowling alley, and a theater. It also had a small marina for the residents’ watercraft for which the towers got their name.

Lovingly known as the “corn cobs” by Chicagoans, Marina City became an instant landmark, mainly because of its unique design of petal-like scalloped outcrops stacked down their length. But in pure Brutalist fashion, these design elements serve the purpose of providing every single apartment with at least one balcony, regardless of the square footage inside. Because they have retained their popularity since they were constructed, the building and respective units have been appropriately maintained, and you can still rent a plainly refurbished unit in the building for as little as $1,400 a month.

Visitors today won’t find the original marina or ice skating rink, though you may be pleased to find the iconic concert hall, The House of Blues. Although there is not currently a company that offers tours of the units inside the building, prospective tenants can schedule a viewing of available rentals with a realtor. But window-shoppers beware: The views from the towers are notoriously intoxicating. A single visit to one of those iconic semi-circular balconies, and you could easily find yourself swiftly relocating to Chicago.

4. Ponte City Apartments, Johannesburg, South Africa

Photo: Felix Lipov/Shutterstock

Ponte, as it is frequently called for short by Joburgers, is a building of extremes. Located on the edge of the Berea neighborhood by the M3 highway, Ponte stands just next to the notorious Hillbrow and to this day, some 45 years after its completion, is still the tallest residential skyscraper on the African continent. Atop its 55 stories is the single largest neon sign in the southern hemisphere, which currently advertises for telecommunications company Vodacom.

Originally intended for wealthy, white Afrikaners and transplant Europeans, an address at the Ponte was once much admired given its sweeping views of the city. But the beginning of the ‘90s, in anticipation of the fall of Apartheid, Ponte and its adjacent neighborhoods began slowly filling with black residents in radical protest to the laws that prevented them from occupying the neighborhood. With the fall of Apartheid, so went the white stronghold of Hillbrow, and the adjacent Ponte spent the next several years falling into miserable decay.

For better or for worse, a revivification project began on the iconic building in the year 2000 and has since been refurbishing units, overhauling the infrastructure of the building, and even cleaning out the five stories of trash that had accumulated in its hollow core. Though many long-time black residents have been forced out due to recently escalating rents, the Ponte is entering a new renaissance and is once more taking its place as one of the most iconic buildings in the world.

It is notoriously difficult to visit Ponte as a non-resident: Lessees describe living there akin to living at a boarding house and have even been forced to pay a fee to have overnight guests. But if you’re dying to snap that iconic photo from the floor of its hollow core for the ‘gram, you can schedule a tour with Dlala Nje. This NGO also hosts The Ponte City Challenge every few months, wherein participants climb to the top of the Ponte — yes, up all 900-plus stairs and 54 stories — completely on foot.

5. The Zalman Aranne Library, Beersheba, Israel

Photo: ספריית ארן/Facebook

On the campus of the Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, you’ll find the Aranne Library, the joint project of five different Israeli architects. While the campus houses many magnificent architectural examples, the library stands out as a Brutalist icon having successfully reconciled the principles of Brutalist design with the principles of Brutalist function into one seemingly effortlessly constructed building.

The ethos of the building’s design aims to solve a couple of elemental problems: making a public space feel private while still providing natural light for all visiting readers. Its design utilizes the abundance of sunshine in the region but, to avoid direct glare, angles it’s triumphant windows to the north. The resulting sunlight spills into all of the appointed reading areas: a series of nooks and balconies that are scattered throughout that connect to or overlook the main common area. The outcome makes the interior just as impressive as the exterior and can allow hundreds of individuals to feel completely alone in the expansive and popular space.

Although a bit out of the way for many visitors to Israel and Palestine, those headed on a road trip to the notoriously tax-free city of Eilat from Tel Aviv will find the University an easy pit stop.

6. Sirius Block Apartments, Sydney, Australia

Photo: Leonid Andronov/Shutterstock

Barnaby Bennett, creative director of the 13th annual Sydney Architecture Festival, says that Sydney’s real estate market “exemplifies urban problems of affordability: houses are too expensive, homelessness is rising, the construction industry is struggling to keep up with demand, and we are still largely building the wrong type of houses in the wrong places.” In a city with some of the most unaffordable housing in the entire world, many are surprised to hear that from 1979 to 2018, The Sirius Building served as public housing in the extraordinarily desirable Rocks District and that units came replete with picturesque views of Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge.

Designed by Tao Gofers for the Housing Commission of New South Wales, it may be the finest example of Brutalist ethical design — an aesthetic that stems from the idea that it is the responsibility of designers and constructors to resolve the limitations of inexpensive materials into glorious structures — the end result ideally being that even people with limited means have the ability to live somewhere beautiful and comfortable. But this dream, unfortunately, wouldn’t last long — the housing commission put it on the market in 2018, eventually selling it to Sirius Developments for $150 million Australian dollars.

Thankfully, they have employed BVN to herald the refurbishment project, whose principal, Phillip Rossington, said, “We were only interested in the project if the building was retained,” which is a victory for those who adore the design of this famous apartment block. However, the project comes at a huge loss to the surrounding community — once staunchly working-class — as there will be no outright provision to retain any portion of the units as public or affordable housing.

Though BVN plans on eventually establishing it as a mixed-use building incorporating retail shops on the ground floor, visitors today will find a much less accommodating atmosphere. The only people currently found on the grounds are security guards hired to prevent journalists — and tourists — from entering the building.

7. Freeway Park, Seattle, Washington

Photo: Seattle.gov

Though not a building at all — rather an urban park composed of concrete, trees, and greenery — Freeway Park nonetheless remains a Brutalist masterpiece. Built under the supervision of Bulgarian landscape architect Angela Danadjieva, it first opened to the public on the United States’ 200th Independence Day: July 4, 1976. Literally built atop portions of I5 as it snakes through downtown Seattle, it also incorporates several water features throughout its many climbable, terraced concrete structures, most notably, Naramore Fountain by renowned sculptor George Tsutakawa.

Unfortunately, the very elements of its design that made it so cool were the exact same elements that brought crime to the park. Its interwoven concrete blocks that eventually became so gorgeously filled with vegetation created nooks and crannies that so easily shrouded illicit activity. Though it long had a reputation for housing general petty crime, a 2002 murder in the park sparked a concerted effort between the parks department and the Freeway Park Neighborhood Association to address how the design of the park contributed to such activity. Thankfully, as many citizens were vocal in their demands for a drastic redesign, crime in the park was reduced by 90 percent in three years simply by increasing patrols, and improving lighting.

Visitors today will find it even lovelier than when it was first opened in 1976, as the vegetation has had a chance to mature, giving it the feel of a modern relic. The park is ringed by hotels and sits just adjacent to the Convention Center, so many visitors the city find it by sheer accident. But if you’re staying a bit farther away, do yourself the favor and make a special trip; it’s accessible by light rail, and you won’t be disappointed.

8. The Bank of Guatemala Building, Guatemala City, Guatemala

Photo: Byron Ortiz/Shutterstock

Of the most iconic buildings in Guatemala City, the Bank of Guatemala building was constructed by José Montes Córdova and Raúl Minondo in 1966. Seated in the first zone of the city in the civic center, its place in the Brutalist cannon also relies distinctly on the arguably non-Brutalist addition of the murals on the east and west facades created by Guatemalan artists Dagoberto Vásquez Castañeda and Roberto González Goyri respectively.

While these murals in some ways eschew the principles of Brutalism as their design serves no direct function, their construction in molded concrete certainly highlights Brutalist reliance on accessible, contemporary materials. In a nod to their proposed longevity, these murals rely on light and shadow to apply highlight and contrast to the works, meaning that their appearance changes slightly throughout the day. The Mayan imagery depicted was chosen not just to be a public testament to the history of Guatemala but also to highlight Guatemalans as part of the Brutalist movement, as many examples of Brutalism in Latin America were actually designed by Europeans or Americans.

The building is still the operational home of the National Bank of Guatemala, so you can go see it today. If you do, try and get a peek of the mezzanine indoors — the murals that adorn its exterior were made to complement some details of the already constructed interior, specifically those you will find surrounding the elevator bank.


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Lake Erie homes encased in ice

At first glance, it might look like a contemporary art installation or the result of an ice carving competition. In reality, however, it’s the surreal scene along the shores of Lake Erie in New York. Following two days of intense winds (from 40 to 60 mph gusts), residents woke to find their homes completely covered in ice.

Welcome to Narnia: Two days of gale force winds along Lake Erie have iced over many of the homes along the beach in Hamburg, NY. @news4buffalo @News_8 @EricSnitilWx @JamesGilbertWX @wnywxguy @spann @JimCantore @StephanieAbrams @StormHour @NatalieKucko pic.twitter.com/uMvIdVWMGz

— John Kucko (@john_kucko) February 29, 2020

Ed Mis of the town of Hamburg is familiar with the phenomenon but says it’s never been quite this bad. “It looks fake, it looks unreal,” he told CNN. “It’s dark on the inside of my house. It can be a little eerie, a little frightening.”

Mis’s home is covered in several feet of ice. On Thursday, Mis said there was no ice in his yard or on his home, but by Friday morning it was completely covered. Twelve feet of ice now covers his backyard, and his home looks like an ice sculpture.

“We’re worried about the integrity, of structure failure when it starts to melt, because of the weight on the roof […] it’s a beautiful sight, but I don’t want to live through it again.”

Much of the ice is thanks to huge waves, driven by strong winds onto the shore. According to winter weather expert Tim Niziol, “When you are down in the low to mid-20s, all of that spray that comes up and hits the buildings is going to freeze and make it a giant icicle.”

Although the ice has begun to melt, Mis hopes the governor will approve an emergency declaration to assist anyone whose home ultimately sustains permanent damage.


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Best recent Irish films and TV show

If checking out the parade in Dublin is not on your agenda this year, and you’re not into spending March 17 binge-drinking in a fake Irish pub surrounded with people wearing giant leprechaun hats, know that there’s a way to celebrate Irish culture that does not involve booze and ridicule. Pour yourself a cup of Barry’s, sit your rear on the couch, and stream one of the many excellent Irish movies and TV shows available at the click of a button. If you’ve had your fair share of Michael Collins and Father Ted over the years, here are more recent, funny, thrilling, and tear-jerking movies and TV shows that will transport you to Ireland this Saint Patrick’s Day.

For a good laugh
Soft Border Patrol

Photo: BBC

The consequences of Brexit on the border between The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland are still unknown, but it’s already bringing back painful memories of checkpoints and watchtowers that we’d rather keep at bay. To lighten up the mood, check out Soft Border Patrol, a hilarious and fictional take on post-Brexit border controls between the European Union and the United Kingdom, within Ireland. A mockumentary in the style of The Office, the Northern Irish TV show follows awkward and often clueless border agents in all their administrative glory during their patrolling duties. From locals reporting seeing former IRA leader Gerry Adams crossing the border to people complaining about signage in kilometers instead of miles, each episode is 30 minutes of absurdity we hope will remain fictitious.

The Young Offenders

Photo: The Young Offenders/Facebook

If you can’t get enough of the sing-songy accent of Cork, tune in with The Young Offenders, a TV series set in the southwestern Irish city and inspired by a movie of the same name and featuring the same actors. The main characters, the young offenders themselves, are Conor and Jock, two good-hearted teenagers with a lack of common sense combined with a knack for getting into trouble. Raised in difficult single-parent families, the pair wants to get rich but are hardly competent or motivated enough to find and hold a job. To achieve their dream, they come up with wacky money-making schemes that never seem to work out but that will have you howl with laughter and reach for more.

Derry Girl

Photo: Channel 4

Probably the funniest take on life during The Troubles — the nationalist and religious conflicts that took place in the North between 1969 and 1999 — Derry Girl is a surefire belly-aching laugh. The TV series follows five teenagers — including Irish Catholic Erin, Clare, Michelle, Orla, and England-born James — as they come of age in the divided northern city of Derry in 1992. While The Troubles are taking place in the background, the group of friends is focused on their own issues (relationships, boy bands, school) and remain almost entirely unphased by the Orange Order Marches, bomb threats, IRA rebels needing to get smuggled across the border, and gun-toting army men. It’s full of ‘90s nostalgia, including always excellent music by the Cranberries, and will have you look back at your own teenage years with fondness and hilarity.

For nail-biting drama
Dublin Murders

Photo: BBC

An adaptation of Tana French’s unputdownable Dublin Murder Squad novels, Dublin Murders follows Cassie and Rob, a detective duo from the fictitious Dublin murder squad, as they attempt to find the killer of a 12-year-old girl named Katy. It’s dark, precise, extremely suspenseful, and full of psychologically damaged people, so it makes for great entertainment. The TV series combines French’s first two novels (In the Woods and The Likeness) in the eight episodes of the first season. There are no words on if the remaining four novels will be adapted for the TV.

The Fall

Photo: BBC

Set in Belfast, The Fall is a blood-curling series following Paul Spector (Jamie Dornan), a man with a compulsion for strangulating young women, as he is being hunted by stone-cold Detective Superintendent Stella Gibson (Gillian Anderson) through the dreary Northern Irish city. If you live on your own and scare easily, wait to watch it with a group of people in daylight — Paul Spector is every woman’s worst nightmare as he silently climbs into houses at night to kill his female targets. There are three seasons to this excellent thriller, and every single episode will have you jump, gasp, and double-check the lock on your doors and windows.

For a good cry
Philomena

Photo: Philomenamovie

If you’ve watched The Magdalene Sisters, you know that the Catholic Church in Ireland is responsible for inflicting unimaginable atrocities on women and children. If you have not watched the 2002 drama and are not sure you can handle it, watch true-story Philomena instead. In the 1950s, a young woman named Philomena becomes pregnant out of wedlock. So as not to bring any more shame to her family and to lead her back on the straight and narrow, she is sent to a convent where she is forced to work for her penance and is only allowed to see her son one hour a day, until the toddler is sold by the sisters to an American couple.

Fifty years later, a freelance journalist convinces her to tell her story, and they embark on a search for her stolen child together. While heart-breaking, Philomena is not all tears and pain — there’s fun, hope, and forgiveness, making it a tragic yet beautiful story that is less tormenting than The Magdalene Sisters. Although not an Irish movie per se, it tackles a topic extremely important in Irish history and is partially set in Co. Tipperary (but filmed in Northern Ireland).

For some amazing music (with a side of romance)
Once

This fresh take on a musical that won an Academy Award for Best Original Song in 2008 is simple, uplifting, and full of amazing, original tunes that you’ll be humming long after the credits. Glen Hansard (from the band The Frames) and Marketa Irglová are the two main characters in this story set in Dublin. The pair meets on the streets of the Irish capital as he busks to make ends meet, and she sells roses to stay afloat. From there, an artistic and emotional connection develops, and they write and record their music together all over the city. The movie only cost $150,000 to make, proving that talent and a great story is all that’s needed to successfully pull at people’s heartstrings.

For an Irish diaspora story (and more romance)
Brooklyn

Photo: Brooklyn Movie/Facebook

Because the story of the Irish people extends way beyond the border of the Emerald Isle, it’s impossible to celebrate the nation without including the Irish diaspora. 2015 movie Brooklyn follows Eilis Lacey (Saoirse Ronan), a young woman who immigrates to the US from Ireland in the 1950s, leaving her family behind. Although a community of similar women awaits her in New York, she struggles with homesickness until she finds love with a young man of Italian descent. Brooklyn is aesthetically beautiful, the actors are spot-on (Saoirse is outstanding), and the story is a blend of love, sorrow, struggle, and success that immigrants all over the world, no matter where they are from and where they went, have felt deeply.


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South African Gatsby sandwich

“What?! You’ve lived in Cape Town for eight years and never had a Gatsby?” My Cape Town born-and-bred companion was horrified that I had overlooked this staple of fast-food restaurants and food stalls. That would be like living in New York and never eating a hotdog, or spending eight years in Brussels and never having a waffle. To truly understand the culinary appetites of South Africans, you must give this sandwich a try.

The Gatsby is a colossal submarine-style sandwich that’s designed to be shared: a full Gatsby can easily feed a family of four — or two friends suffering with hangovers. Toppings can include anything like plain old polony to calamari, eggs, masala steak, boerewors (a lightly spiced beef sausage), or hot French fries It’ll be fried to perfection and often smothered with salt and vinegar.

Since its invention nearly 50 years ago, the Gatsby has come to represent the best of South African street food, bringing loved ones together over a messy, delicious meal.

The origins of the Gatsby sandwich

When it comes to seeking out the story of the Gatsby, all roads lead to Athlone, a rough-around-the-edges suburb south of Cape Town’s city center. The neighborhood is home to plenty of takeaways serving the giant sandwich, but there’s only one that claims to have invented it. Super Fisheries opens at 8:30 AM and by 10 the line is out the door. The aroma of fried food fills the cramped space and staff hurriedly serve their hungry patrons with practiced efficiency. The owner is Rashaad Pandy, undisputed creator of the Gatsby. He doesn’t have much time to chat, but he’s told his story so often that it doesn’t take long to run through the basics.

In the mid-1970s Rashaad hired a crew of laborers for some building work. “At the end of the day, I wanted to give them something to eat, but all I had was chips, polony, and atchar [Indian pickles], so I put it all together on a roll,” he recalls.

Upon taking a bite of the sandwich, a man known as Froggie proclaimed it to be a “Gatsby smash.” No one knows quite what he meant by this. Was he likening the sandwich’s success to the success of the then just-released movie? Or perhaps comparing the unhealthy excess of the sandwich to the excesses the book and movie are famous for? Either way, the Gatsby was born and since then it has become an identifying foodie symbol of Cape Town.

Where to find the best Gatsby in Cape Town

Photo: Cosy Corner CPT/Facebook

Super Fisheries is undoubtedly the home of the Gatsby, with one regular patron telling me that he’s seen people drive from all corners of the city to sample the “best chips in town.” But these days the family-sized sub is found throughout Cape Town, often in less affluent areas or at simple eateries surrounding train and bus stations, offering a quick and cheap way to fill up after a long day at work.

If you ask around though, you’ll find one name repeated over and over: Cosy Corner, located in Wynberg, a largely Muslim neighborhood about nine miles south of Cape Town. Cosy Corner has been in business for almost 45 years. The family-run eatery offers curries, burgers, and flame-grilled chicken, as well as huge Gatsby sandwiches to eat in or take away. Variants on the Gatsby’s traditional fillings including chargrilled steak and tandoori chicken. Even the local vegan movement is getting in on the Gatsby action. Plant-based diners can get their Gatsby fix at Lekker Vegan, just east of the city center.

The Gatsby has become an important part of local culture, a meal that originated in a small Cape Town community and has grown to represent the very spirit of ubuntu: a group of family or friends gathered around a communal dish sharing stories and smiles as they wipe the sauce from their chins.


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