Matador Network's Blog, page 187
March 19, 2024
Another Free Campground Shuts Down Due to Too Much Human Poop
Big Sur is one of the most beautiful places on the West Coast, and one of the most in-demand when it comes to places to camp on the beach. While most campsites in California require reservations, and sometimes have steep nightly fees, there was one gorgeous campsite available completely for free: San Carpoforo Creek Beach, called San Carpo, in the northern part of Hearst San Simeon State Park just south of Big Sur. It operated on a first-come, first-served basis, with absolutely no fees.
But now, that option is no more. In March 2024, the California Coastal Commission approved a request from the US Forest Service to ban camping for two years due to environmental degradation caused by campers. And it gets even more specific: there was just too much human poop everywhere.
The concerns were laid out in January 2024 report by the California Coastal Commission based on data from the US Forest Service, which studied the campground’s usage. It found that the recent increase in usage had led to problems, including an inability for local authorities to regulate and manage the campground, damage to coastal habitats used by endangered and threatened species, and an increase in trash, waste, and debris, since the campground doesn’t have enough amenities to accommodate the current usage.
Sadly, some of that waste includes human waste.
“The USFS reports that campers and other visitors have sometimes left large amounts of trash, debris, and human waste at the beach, and have cut or removed vegetation – some of which is considered ESHA or provides habitat for Western snowy plovers – for campfires or to build shelters or windbreaks,” writes the report.
The Snowy Plover (Charadrius nivosus) lives on shorelines in central California. Photo: Nick Pecker/Shutterstock
It also reflected concerns about fish populations near the coast, noting that the increase in pollution and human waste was running into the oceans, which could harm steelhead trout in central California.
The ban will go into effect immediately, though it bans only overnight usage; San Carpoforo Creek Beach is still open to day visitors. Campers hoping to stay overnight in the area will have to instead head to one of two nearby campgrounds. Roughly 30 minutes to the north is Plaskett Creek Campground, reservable in advance at $45 per night on Recreation.gov, and to the south are two more campgrounds of Hearst San Simeon State Park, which offers campground reservations through CalParks online.
Another option is camping on BLM, or Bureau of Land Management land. Dispersed camping is allowed almost anywhere on California’s BLM land, but be sure to practice Leave No Trace principals and follow and local campground and regional regulations. 
The 5 Best Small Campgrounds in the US Named in New Campspot Awards
For many campers, the whole point of sleeping wild is to steal away from the modern demands of daily life for a while. That includes the constant presence of other people. While there can certainly be a social element to camping, there’s nothing worse than securing a campsite in a remote location only to realize that you’re sharing closer quarters with your campground neighbors than you do with your neighbors back home. When you manage to find an intimate campground, on the other hand, the experience can be truly regenerative.
Campsite booking and analytics platform Campspot recently released its list of 2024 award winners, singling out the best campsites in North America across a variety of categories, including small campgrounds. The winners were decided based on factors such as “reservation data, ratings, and park features.”
The following five campgrounds were determined to be the top small campgrounds in the US this year. They span from coast to coast and provide a healthy mix of tent, cabin, and RV sites for campers of all persuasions. Even better: all five campgrounds are open year-round for you to visit whenever that camping urge strikes.
Mountaineer Campground — Townsend, TennesseeIndian Mound Fish Camp — Oak Hill, FloridaDark Sky RV Campground — Kanab, UtahRiverwalk on the Yadkin RV Park — Jonesville, North CarolinaKettle Campground — Eureka Springs, ArkansasOther categories in the Campspot AwardsCampspot included 14 categories in total for its 2024 awards, each with either five or 10 ranked winners. Below is the full list of Campspot Awards categories for this year.
Top Campgrounds in CanadaTop RV CampgroundsTop Tent CampgroundsTop Glamping CampgroundsTop Small CampgroundsTop Midsize CampgroundsTop Large CampgroundsTop Campgrounds New to CampspotTop Campgrounds for FamiliesTop Campgrounds for Digital NomadsTop Campgrounds for Long-Term StaysTop Campgrounds for FishingTop Campgrounds for WaterparksTop Campgrounds for GroupsYou can see the full list of winners on Campspot.
Exploring Bali’s Incredible Street Food Culture With the ‘Street Food Chef’ Himself
There are many cities around the world where you can find incredible street food. Tacos in Mexico City, char kway teow noodles in Singapore, takoyaki in Tokyo and Osaka — the list goes on. On the latest No Fixed Address episode, hosts Michael Motamedi and Vanessa Salas assessed Bali’s incredible street food culture with chef Will Meyrick, a restaurant developer and former Top Chef judge.
Among his businesses and accolades, Meyrick also has a title that makes him a particularly apt expert for learning all things roadside dining: “The Street Food Chef.”
Meyrick has led restaurants in London, Sydney, and throughout Southeast Asia in Hong Kong, Thailand, and Indonesia. He eventually settled in Bali, and is now a household name in Indonesia with a set of award-winning Bali restaurants, cooking classes, and culinary immersion tours. His work has taken him to remote corners of the island and markets that the vast majority of travelers never make it to. It’s all part of years of research and commitment to representing Indonesian food and culture in the right ways.
The podcast starts with a tour of a traditional market. The main stop is a section where workers are preparing whole pigs for one of Bali’s most famous and important dishes: babi guling. Here, the pigs are gutted, cleaned, marinated with turmeric and tamarind, and roasted for this whole-pig meal.
Seeing this side of the production before delving into restaurants and learning more about Meyrick’s approach to food gave Motamedi context of this cherished meal. It’s also not something recommended for vegetarians or the faint of heart, due to all of the exposure to guts, blood, and butchering. But as Motamedi notes, you can’t talk about food without talking about culture, and babi guling is central to Bali culture, foodways, and spirituality.
Michael Motamedi
At the heart of all street food, Meyrick says while speaking with Motamedi in Denpasar, is of course the people making said food. These chefs make a handful of foods that people love day-in and day-out. Consistency and perfecting one thing is a bit of a lost art in today’s multi-hyphenate work culture. Without someone focused on consistency, however, you don’t have stand-out street food.
Traveling to Bali? Check out Matador’s Bali accommodations guides: The Best Bali Airbnbs and Hotels To Embrace Nature in Luxury This Epic Bali Treehouse Puts You High Above the Lush Jungle Float Above the Clouds at This Munduk Airbnb Wake Up to Jungle Views in This Bali Treehouse Airbnb The Two Four Seasons Resorts in Bali Pair Luxury With a Connection to Local Culture, Food, and TraditionsListen to No Fixed Address on Spotify and Apple Podcasts to learn more about what makes Bali’s street food culture so incredible, the question of authenticity and deciding who gets to be a representative of a region’s food, and the spiritual ceremonies that should be followed when opening a restaurant in Bali (and the fires and other misfortunes that tend to happen when those ceremonies aren’t followed).
To Ride One of Japan’s Most Luxurious Trains, You First Have to Win a Lottery
Japan’s train travel opportunities are not limited to the bullet trains, AKA the Shinkansen. While the country is at the forefront of high-speed train technology (Japan holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest Maglev train in the world, which can reach a top speed of 374.68 mph), it also knows how to create extremely luxurious rail travel experiences.
Enter the Seven Stars in Kyushu, a train so exclusive that you have to win a lottery to ride it. Indeed, despite the fact that it costs thousands of dollars to take a trip on board this train, you need to fill in an application form to even be considered as a potential passenger. That’s because there’s very limited space on board the Seven Stars in Kyushu, which has can accommodate a maximum of 20 sleeping guests.
The Seven Stars in Kyushu: What is it like on board?
Piano lounge and bar car. Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANY
Piano lounge and bar car. Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANY
Salon car. Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANYThe Seven Stars in Kyushu is a small train, composed of only seven cars — one for each of the seven prefectures of the island of Kyushu where it operates. Of those seven cars, one hosts the piano lounge/bar space where passengers can enjoy drinks, live music, and the views thanks to large windows; one is the salon car where travelers can relax and socialize in comfortable armchairs and sofas, as well as enjoy a traditional Japanese tea ceremony in the small tea room; and the remaining five are dedicated to passengers’ personal quarters, with 10 guest rooms (eight suites and two deluxe suites). All guest rooms feature private en suites.
Suite on board the Seven Stars in Kyushu. Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANY
Suite on board the Seven Stars in Kyushu. Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANYWhat makes the Seven Stars in Kyushu stand out is exactly what makes other luxury trains, like the famed Orient Express, so attractive: the striking interior, the high level of service, and the gourmet food. Despite the destinations and activities offered being extremely exciting and high end, it’s really what goes on on board that appeals to travelers. On board the Seven Stars in Kyushu, the decor is strikingly elegant, with an abundance of fine woodwork crafted by local artists who carry out traditional crafts in the 21st century, and potters who create ceramics for every day use on board the train according to time-honored traditions.
When does the Seven Stars in Kyushu run and how can I apply?Photo: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANY
The Seven Stars in Kyushu operates from April to August and from September to February. During each time period, there are two different trips available, one two-day trip and one four-day trip. Applicants must apply for the time period that suits them best but they don’t get to select a preferred trip. Applications for the April 2024 to August 2024 journeys are currently closed, and applications for the September 2024 to February 2025 journeys will close at the end of March, so hurry and fill out the necessary form if you want a shot at riding one of the world’s most luxurious trains.
How much does it cost to ride the Seven Stars in Kyushu?The price of riding this very special train varies according to the length of the trip, the type of suite you stay in (regular suite or deluxe), and whether you’re traveling alone or as a pair (with traveling alone being more pricey).
For trips taking place between September 2024 and February 2025, based on double occupation, a two day journey in a regular suite starts at $4310 (¥650,000) and a four-day journey starts at $7620 (¥1,150,000).
How To Plan The Ultimate Day in Vail’s Legendary Back Bowls
In Colorado ski lore, few terrain zones are as iconic as Vail’s Back Bowls. Comprising more than 3,000 acres across more than a dozen fall lines and offering skiing on nearly every aspect, the seven Back Bowls offer backcountry-like lines in a controlled setting that draws skiers worldwide. They offer wide-open glades, chutes, and steeps, all with incredible views of the surrounding Gore Range and Holy Cross Wilderness. Skiing or boarding Vail’s Back Bowls is a must-do for any who consider themselves dedicated to the craft – here’s how to plan your day for the best experience.
Traveling to Vail? Check out Matador’s guide to the best Vail Airbnbs.
About Vail’s Seven Legendary Back Bowls
Photo: Neil Podoll/Shutterstock
Vail’s Back Bowls draw inspiration from the Far East. Most notably, there’s China Bowl, named after the massive rock band atop the bowl affectionately called China Wall, because it dominates the surrounding landscape like the giant wall itself. Rounding out the terrain are Sun Down and Sun Up Bowls, Game Creek Bowl, Tea Cup Bowl, Siberia Bowl, and Inner and Outer Mongolia Bowls. The terrain is different at each. China Bowl offers both open powder fields and loose trees, while others specialize in one or the other. All are unique, and each is worth spending time on – and you can traverse the entire zone in a full day, retiring to Vail Village afterward with legs so tired that only a pint at Vail Brewing can heal.
Tips for the best experienceThe wind tends to blow in from the west across Vail, stripping west-facing slopes of powder and depositing that snow on the east-facing slopes. This is a primary reason to ski the bowls west to east – you can spend as much time as you wish on easy-facing slopes this way, maximizing your return of face shots.Vail’s Back Bowls is one of the only areas in the state where you can ski nearly every aspect (east-, west-, south-, and occasionally north-facing slopes), often on the same run. Many of the bowls offer about 270 degrees of available terrain, ranging from east through south to west facing. At least one of those aspects is likely to have powder — and you can access that powder on most of the bowls. This is particularly true in Sun Up Bowl and China Bowl.If time allows, take a couple of mid-day runs at Blue Sky Basin. Here’s where you’ll find steep and technical tree skiing on runs like Steep and Deep and Little Ollie.The Back Bowls are primarily for expert skiers and snowboarders only, though easier terrain is available The Slot in Sun Up Bowl (which is groomed nightly for intermediate skiers) and Sleepy Time Road, which starts at the top of Sun Up Bowl, traverse down through Tea Cup Bowl, and finishes at the base of the Orient Express Lift in China Bowl.Conditions: The Back Bowls are typically the last place on the mountain to open in the morning and the first to close in the afternoon. This is because they are the most exposed terrain on the mountain and are more likely to be affected by wind, snow, and cold temperatures.Safety: Because of the challenging terrain and remote location, it is important to be aware of the risks involved in skiing or snowboarding in the Back Bowls. Be sure to check the avalanche forecast before you go, and always ski or snowboard with a buddy.Planning your day: Start west and head east
Photo courtesy Vail Resorts
3000 acres of terrain await you. To cover it as much of it as possible, you need to come in with a plan that optimizes the terrain and the snow conditions, and does so in a manner that optimizes the way lifts are laid out. The best way to do this is to start on the far west side at Game Creek Bowl. To get there, ride up Gondola 1 and take the quick traverse to the Wildwood Express lift. Take this up, head south across the plaza, and prepare to drop in.
The furthest west of Vail’s Back Bowls, Game Creek Bowl, is more easily accessible since the 2023 opening of the Sun Down Express Lift, which accesses the bowl’s six runs by exiting the lift and traversing across Ptarmigan Ridge to a line that calls you. Morningside Ridge and Ricky’s Ridge drop into open expanses of white, while further runs like Never and O.S. offer the option to dip into the glades. To the right of the lift as you exit is Sun Down Bowl. The most underrated line here is Windows, which offers the chance to drop into an east-facing ridge if the sun’s softened the hard pack, take the west-facing aspect if it’s untracked, or the gulley straight down the middle.
Regardless of the line you choose in Game Creek Bowl, you’ll end up at the bottom of the Sun Down Express and High Noon lifts. To stay in Game Creek and Sundown Bowls, which often provide the best conditions first thing in the morning, hop on the Sund Down Express lift. To head further east, get on High Noon. You’ll arrive at the top of Head Wall Ridge and Sun Up Bowl. The ridgelines due west of the lift tend to offer excellent conditions by 10:00 as the sun melts the overnight freeze and the snow rides either as powder, packed powder, or loose corn. If conditions are pristine, hit Cow’s Face or the trees through Chicken Yard to return to High Noon Express. Or, a shorter run down Milt’s Face offers the same aspect and puts you at the Sup Up Express.
Zap down under the Tea Cup Express lift and head west on Sweet N Sour before ducking into the small and well-hidden Tea Cup Bowl, the most well-preserved of the Back Bowls. The powder here starts to loosed around mid-day.
Mid-day delight in China Bowl
The powder is seemingly endless. Photo: Tim Wenger
China Bowl is the most well-known and trafficked of Vail’s Back Bowls. It’s also the largest. This is to your advantage because you can choose an aspect from east through south to west to hit, based on conditions. As you make your way up the Tea Cup Express, scout the conditions and compare them to where the crowds are – this is how you’ll decide where you won’t go. You should have good luck on Ghengis Khan, and on the following lap after riding up the Orient Express Lift, on Poppyfields East (trees and west-face) or Poppyfields West (wide open powder, baby). It can also be easy to find powder stashes on Shangri-La Glade, as many skiers opt not to ski under the lift.
If you’re a fan of leaning back and letting out an enthusiastic “Whooo-ey!” as you slash through a wide-open face of snow, central China Bowl is your spot. Watch out for wind-swept terrain as the wind tends to compile snow in the center of the basin, but other than that there’s no better spot at Vail to let ‘er rip.
Take The Silk Road to Mongolia
Make it up “the platter” and you’ve earned your stripes. Photo: Tim Wenger
The Far East references continue as you head, well, further east on Vail’s Back Bowls. The Silk Road is a Blue-rated traverse trail that connects the top of the Orient Express Lift with the Mongolia surface lift, commonly known as “the platter,” and then from the top of that lift to the furthest east reaches of the ski area boundary, down the east side of the resort, and back down to the bottom of the Orient Express. Take this entire route and you’ll have completed one of the longest continually-named ski runs in the world. Before hitting the platter, duck into Gorky’s Park or Red Square in Siberia Bowl, however, and slap some pow before returning to the top.
Arriving at Inner and Outer Mongolia Bowls after skiing across the other five bowls is preferred because there’s seemingly endless terrain out here – and even if China Bowl and others are skied out you’ll typically find powder. It’s possible to bail off the platter early – without riding all the way to the top – and head into Bolshoi Ballroom from the side, where you’re very likely to find an untracked line down. From the top of the platter, Bolshoi or Inner Mongolia offer a long descent with loosely-spaced trees that make for fun turns. Outer Mongolia offers more of the same, and here, local riders are known to put up kickers and post up for the day with lunch and drinks in tow, sessioning the furthest east bowl all day with minimal disturbance from the western world.
US Travelers Returning From Edinburgh Could Soon Save Hours by Skipping Customs When They Land
Edinburgh Airport may soon be the first airport in the UK with US Preclearance. Preclearance has been in operation since 1952. Today, the US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) employs over 600 officers and agriculture specialists across six countries at 15 airports with Preclearance. As Edinburgh Airport provides many direct flight routes to the US, there is talk between the US and UK governments about extending this service to Scotland.
According to the CBP, Preclearance is an efficient way to clear US customs, immigration, and agriculture inspection before taking off, saving passengers time in customs when they land. As these flights arrive at domestic US gates, the swift security procedures also aim to increase the number of flights coming into the US (as domestic slots are more readily available,) reduce costs, and lead to more flexible arrival times. The CBP also claims that the service aids passengers to avoid busy arrival halls and make tight domestic connections.
Although there have been rumors circulating that the UK will offer this service, it’s yet to be put into action. Airport officials look to the thriving flight hub of Dublin Airport, which has had Preclearance since 2011. Dublin Airport currently runs far more flights to the US than Edinburgh, but it can be used as an example of how legislation could work in Scotland. The practicalities of establishing Preclearance are also expensive and intrusive. Airports need to have a secure airside area for passengers who are pre-cleared to wait to board the aircraft.
In an exclusive interview with The Independent, the chief executive of Edinburgh airport, Gordon Dewar, shared that this would be a fantastic opportunity for the nation and could help increase flights to the US from the UK.
Here’s where you can currently find airports with US Preclearance:
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7 Mistakes to Avoid During DC’s Cherry Blossom Festival
When the long-awaited blooming of the cherry blossom trees signals the arrival of spring, Washington, DC, becomes awash in tones of dreamy pink, white, and fuchsia. Each year, 4,000 trees first planted in 1912 as a gift from Japan to the people of the US come alive, bursting into tens of thousands of spectacular petals that attract a staggering one million visitors.
And each year, the nation’s capital hosts the National Cherry Blossom Festival, a must-do if you’re visiting the city in the spring. However, without some smart planning, trying to see the colorful trees can turn into a nightmare of crowds, long walks, and bad weather. With no preparation, attending the DC cherry blossom festival can go from fun to full hassle as quickly as one of the withering blooms.
Don’t let the flowers turn you sour — avoid these common mistakes visitors make when attending the festival.
About the DC Cherry Blossom Festival
The Cherry Blossom Parade is one of many major events held during the spring festival. Photo: Vsevolod33/Shutterstock
The National Cherry Blossom Festival is a four-week celebration from roughly late March to mid-April, with the exact dates depending on when the cherry blossoms peak. The peak bloom is typically around the first week of April, but it can vary depending on the weather. Festival events include the massive cherry blossom parade, a kite festival, the Sakura Matsuri Japanese street fair, and a fireworks display. There are a lot of family and kid-friendly events, too, as DC is generally a pretty kid-friendly city.
Private businesses, restaurants, and stores often do their own events as part of the festival as well, from pop-up Japanese restaurant menus to themed fashion shows to special gallery displays and limited-edition teas and coffees at local coffee shops.
The 2024 National Cherry Blossom Festival is scheduled for March 20-April 14, though it’s usually possible to see the blooms for a week or so on either side of that window.
Mistake one: not checking the forecast
Snow during the cherry blossom festival is unlikely, but possible. Photo: Yaya Ernst/Shutterstock
The cherry blossoms are already fleeting and fickle enough without adding uncontrollable variables from Mother Nature. Weather events can change everything on a dime; a late frost can kill the buds before they even bloom, while a windy day or heavy rainstorm can quickly pull off petals, leaving behind nothing but bare branches and disappointed sightseers.
Check the Capital Weather Gang, the meteorology team of The Washington Post, and the official Cherry Blossom Watch, for the latest information about the state of the blooms and peak times. Speaking of the latter, though: don’t get too caught up in arriving exactly at “peak bloom time”. Barring any crazy weather, it’s perfectly fine to visit a few days before or after, as the blooms will still look dramatic. Most of the trees around the tidal basin are Yoshino cherry trees (Prunus × yedoensis), with white or pale pink blooms, and tend to bloom first. Those are usually followed a few weeks later by the Kwanzan trees (Prunus kanzan), recognizable by their bright pink, fluffy, and crepe paper-esque flowers.
Mistake two: planning on find street parking
Street parking is difficult in DC, even durning non-busy periods. Photo: Lissandra Melo/Shutterstock
Even if you visit on a weekday, you most likely won’t be lucky enough to snag a parking spot on the street – and you may also be contending with rush-hour traffic, which is the second-worst in the country).
If you insist on driving, prepare for gridlock during the busiest times (especially 6 AM-9 AM, and 3 PM-6 PM), and don’t come without reserving a parking spot in advance through a site like SpotHero. Of course, if you’re staying overnight, your hotel might offer nightly parking (for a fee). Another option for day trippers, especially those staying in the suburbs, is to park at a Metro station with a large parking lot and take the Metro; Innovation Station and Wiehle-Reston East in Virginia and Glenmont and Shady Grove in Maryland all have ample capacity.
Mistake three: not understanding Metro
DC gets very crowded during the festival, especially on weekends. Photo: Nicole Glass Photography/Shutterstock
Speaking of the Metro, there are a few ways to hack it to prevent headaches. Unlike the New York City Subway, the Metro requires you to swipe payment as you enter and exit at turnstile to figure out your fare, since fees are based on distance and time of day. Luckily, though, you can add a SmartTrip pass to Google Wallet or Apple Pay on your phone, so gone are the days of tourists standing at ticket machines scratching their heads, struggling with purchases and adding funds to their cards.
The most important tip for using the Metro during the DC Cherry Blossom Festival is to avoid the stations all the other festival-goers use. That means avoid the Smithsonian stop on the Orange/Blue/Silver lines like the plague. The Metro platform gets so packed that riders exiting the train can’t even make it to the escalator to exit the station before the next train arrives and dumps thousands more tourists. Leaving can be even worse, as Metro officials will sometimes close the escalators to control how many riders can enter the station at a time.
A much better alternative is to use the L’Enfant Plaza station, about a 10-minute walk from the Smithsonian Station. It’s especially critical to use it when you’re leaving to beat the throngs of people getting on at Smithsonian — and if you’re lucky, you may even find a seat.
Mistake four: thinking you can only see the blooms on foot
Photo: Songquan Deng/Shutterstock
While a stroll around the Tidal Basin is the most popular way to attend the festival, there are alternatives. Operators including Unlimited Biking, Fat Tire Tours, and Pedego offer guided bike tours; the latter is on electric bikes and starts and ends in charming Old Town Alexandria. You can also take a small group tour on a Segway with Yonder Tours.
Keep in mind, though, that you’ll be riding through incredibly crowded areas, so if the thought of navigating on two wheels while dodging people, strollers, and dogs makes you nervous, this might not be the best idea.
You can also view the pink trees from the water during a paddleboat ride or a 45-minute cherry blossom cruise, which travels the Potomac River to Georgetown. You can explore for as long as you’d like, then grab a boat later in the day when it’s time to leave (there’s no Metro station in Georgetown). Or for something more active, you can rent a pedal boat on the Tidal Basin. Rentals usually open for the season before or in the first days of the festival.
Mistake five: following the masses
Cherry blossoms at DC’s National Arboretum. Photo: misha617/Shuttrstock
The DC Cherry Blossom Festival is centered around the Tidal Basin. It has a flat, two-mile loop trail with around 4,000 cherry trees, from which you can also spot landmarks like the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial (one of the city’s most underrated), the Jefferson Memorial, and the Japanese Pagoda Lantern.
But it’s not the only place in DC to see cherry blossoms. The Hains Point Loop Trail in East Potomac Park can also get pretty busy, but has a four-mile loop trail with 500 late-blooming Kwanzan cherry trees, as well as Yoshinos. And the National Arboretum’s three-mile loop trail is accessible via car, bike or on foot, and has a variety of cherry tree species that stay in bloom longer than those around the basin. Helpful, there’s a self-guided tour available on the park app.
The gardens on the grounds of the Dumbarton Oaks Museum also have a section called “Cherry Hill” that’s seasonally pink, and the walled-in gardens at the Washington National Cathedral are serene and full of colorful trees each April.
Mistake six: underestimating the work it takes to get good photos
Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
If you’re looking to take photos at the DC Cherry Blossom Festival for social media (or an actual frame), remember some basic photography tips. Come late in the day to catch the coveted “golden hour” early sunset lighting, rather than mid-day – bright sun will have your subjects squinting and the branches will leave weird shadows on their faces.
And though you might be tempted to wear a floral pattern to match the blossoms — don’t. Avoid bright or dark colors or clashing prints, sticking instead to neutral beiges, whites, or soft pastel lavenders and blues that will complement the flowers. Even if you detest selfie sticks or tripods, this will be the time to pull one out so you can angle your pictures to avoid capturing everyone else around you who is doing the same thing.
Mistake seven: spending all your time at the Tidal Basin
The Tidal Basin is the epicenter of the festivities, but you shouldn’t spend all your time there. Photo: Cvandyke/Shutterstock
Cherry-blossom season is serious business in DC, and chefs and bartenders get into the spirit with creatively concocted dishes and cocktails. Not only do the three locations of Balkan restaurant Ambar always offer libations made with cherry-blossom rakia (a Balkan brandy), but all three also adorn their ceilings and trellises with pink-and-white blooms.
Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt Hotel traditionally creates an annual cocktail for the festival, best enjoyed near the hotel’s blown-glass cherry blossom art in the lobby. And celebrity chef José Andrés’ hotspot Jaleo always has cherry-tinged takes on Spanish tapas, like cherry gazpacho with goat cheese pillows, and confit pork belly with a cherry demi-glace.
Where to stay in Washington, DCView this post on Instagram
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DC is divided into four quadrants with the US Capitol at the center, and most visitors stay in the biggest one, Northwest. That’s where you’ll find most of the city’s monuments (including those on the National Mall), most of the Smithsonian museums, and popular neighborhoods like Adams Morgan, Georgetown, and Woodley Park. However, the addition of the National Stadium in DC’s Southeast has made the Navy Yard area more popular, and it’s easy to stay in Maryland or northern Virginia and just take Metro into the city, too.
If you want to stay in DC, it can be fun to stay at a historical hotel like The Watergate or the Jefferson, and there are also lots of chic Airbnbs spread around the city’s many walkable neighborhoods.
The Best Hiking Boots For Every Type of Hike
Your boots are your loyal companions on the trail, carrying you through sunshine, rain, and everything in between. But with so many options on the shelf, choosing the right pair can feel daunting. Do you prioritize ankle support for rugged hikes or lightweight agility for speedy ascents? Waterproof protection for surprise downpours or breathability for hot summer treks? This guide will help you navigate the world of hiking boots, ensuring you select the perfect partner for every adventure, whether it’s a leisurely stroll through a local park or an ambitious trek to a mountain peak.
Support vs. agility: Consider the terrain you’ll be tackling. Rugged hikes with heavy backpacks call for ankle-supporting boots, while lighter trails might favor a more agile, low-cut boot.Waterproofing vs. breathability: Will you be conquering wet or snowy conditions? Opt for a waterproof liner. Prioritizing hot-weather comfort? Breathability is key.Weight and durability: Heavier boots offer more protection but tire you out faster. Lighter options prioritize agility but may not be as durable.Fit and break-in: Try boots on with the socks you’ll hike in. They should be snug but not constricting. Some boots require a break-in period, while others feel comfy from the start.How often you hike: If you only hike once or twice per year, you don’t need to shell out the big bucks on a pair of hiking boots – opt for lighter and more basic options.Hiking terrain: If you live in the desert, your boots will encounter different obstacles than someone who lives in the Pacific Northwest. Consider the type of terrain you will do most of your hiking in, and read the brand’s description of where the boot is best used.Your very special feet: Do you have wide feet? Need extra cushioning? Maybe a bunion? Consider special features that cater to your specific needs and preferences.We hope you love the hiking boots we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to make a purchase. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
Lowa Renegade GTX Mid hiking bootsMerrell Moab Speed 2 Mid GTXOn Cloudtrax hiking bootsXero Shoes Ridgeway hiking bootsErem XerocoleBest hiking boots: A rundown of top optionsLowa Renegade GTX MidMerrell Moab Speed II GTXOn CloudtraxXero RidgwayErem XerocolePrice: $255Price: $180Price: $210Price: $145Price: $49.97 clearanceGreat for backpackingGreat for casual hikersLightweightStylish, looks good at happy hourGreat for desert hikesForms to your foot after break-in periodEasy to break in and feel comfortableCushioned midsoleGood for varied trail typesSustainably builtGood for wet climatesWaterproof and breathableAgile and quickMinimalist designExcellent gripBest for backpacking: Lowa Renegade GTX Mid hiking boots
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Photo: Jessica Hughes
Photo: Jessica HughesLowa Renegade GTX Mid hiking boots are known for their excellent ankle support, durability, and comfort. They’re a popular choice for backpackers and hikers who tackle moderate to challenging trails. The boots feature a nubuck leather upper that’s both water-resistant and tough enough to withstand scrapes and dings on the trail. A Gore-Tex liner adds a layer of waterproof protection and breathability to keep your feet dry and comfortable in all weather conditions. The mid-cut design offers additional stability and ankle support, especially when carrying a heavy backpack.
Despite its weight, which some reviewers find substantial, the Renegade GTX Mid is known for its comfortable fit and impressive shock absorption. This makes them a good option for long hikes where you’ll be on your feet for extended periods. The Vibram sole provides excellent traction on a variety of terrain, including loose rock, dirt, and wet surfaces.
Here’s why these boots stand out:
Break-in Period: Unlike some hiking boots, the Lowa Renegade GTX Mid is known to require a break-in period before they feel comfortable. This can involve wearing them for short hikes or walks for a few days or weeks to allow the leather upper to conform to your feet. A few sessions should do it and once broken in, they’re set to last for years.
Sizing and Fit: These boots come in a wide variety of sizes, including wide and narrow widths, to accommodate different foot shapes. However, some users report that they run a bit small and recommend ordering a half size larger than usual.
Great for damp climates: While the boots are generally praised for their quality and performance, they can be heavy compared to some other hiking boots, and some users find the lacing system to be cumbersome. Additionally, the breathability can be limited due to the Gore-Tex liner, so they might not be ideal for very hot climates.
Check out Matador’s detailed review of the Lowa Renegade GTX Mid hiking boot
Price: $255
Best for casual hikers: Merrell Moab Speed 2 Mid GTX hiking boots
Photo: REI
Photo: REI
Photo: REI
Photo: REIHikers seeking a balance between agility and support on the trails should consider the Merrell Moab Speed 2 Mid GTX. This versatile boot lives up to its name, offering a lightweight and streamlined design for faster hikes without sacrificing stability. The upper is crafted from breathable mesh with synthetic overlays for durability, keeping your feet cool while providing protection from trail debris.
The Moab Speed 2 Mid GTX prioritizes comfort for long days on the move. A fuel cell midsole absorbs shock with each step, reducing fatigue on uneven terrain. Merrell’s signature M Select grip+ outsole offers reliable traction on various surfaces, wet or dry, giving you confidence to navigate technical sections with ease. Additionally, a Gore-Tex waterproof lining keeps your feet dry when encountering puddles or light rain.
Here’s why these boots stand out:
Waterproofing and Breathability: The boot uses a Gore-Tex liner, a reliable material that offers both waterproofing and breathability. This is ideal for keeping your feet dry in wet conditions while allowing moisture vapor to escape, preventing overheating. However, some users have reported that the breathability might not be sufficient for very hot climates.
Fit and Sizing: The Moab Speed 2 Mid GTX is known for its comfortable, out-of-the-box fit. Unlike some hiking boots that require a break-in period, these should feel good on your feet from the start. They come in various men’s and women’s sizes with a standard width option. However, if you have wider feet, you might want to consider going up a half size for better comfort.
Check out Matador’s detailed review of the Merrell Moab Speed 2 Mid GTX hiking boots
Price: $180
Best lightweight hiking boots: On Cloudtrax hiking boots
It was rainy in Juneau, Alaska this fall, but the Cloudtrax did prevent my feet from getting soaked. Photo: Jesse Adams
Photo: Jesse AdamsDesigned for hikers who value both comfort and style, the On Cloudtrax is a modern take on the traditional hiking boot. They bridge the gap between outdoor performance and everyday wearability. The shoe features a water-repellent upper made with recycled polyester, making it a sustainable choice for eco-conscious adventurers. The upper also boasts a breathable mesh tongue, allowing for air circulation and keeping your feet cool on the trail. A one-pull speed lacing system allows for quick and easy on-and-off, while a TPU toe cap and mudguard offer protection from scrapes and bumps encountered on the path.
On Cloudtrax is known for its signature CloudTec cushioning technology in the midsole. These cloud-like pods compress on impact, providing a soft and comfortable landing, and then spring back for a propulsive feel. This makes them ideal for long hikes where fatigue can set in. The Missiongrip outsole features multiple traction patterns for superior grip on various terrains, be it loose rock, dirt, or wet surfaces.
Here’s why these boots stand out:
Weight and Sizing: On Cloudtrax is known for being a lightweight hiking boot, making them a good option for hikers who prioritize agility and speed. They are lighter than many traditional hiking boots and feel more like a comfortable athletic shoe. However, some users might find they lack the ankle support of a heavier boot. On Cloudtrax comes in both men’s and women’s sizes and is known to run small. Reviewers recommend going up half a size for a proper fit.
Versatility and Durability: The Cloudtrax is designed to be a versatile shoe, suitable for both hiking and everyday wear. The stylish design makes them a good choice for wearing around town after your hike. However, while the upper is water-repellent, it is not waterproof, so they may not be ideal for very wet conditions. The durability of the Cloudtrax also receives mixed reviews. Some users find them holding up well on moderate trails, while others report faster wear and tear on more challenging terrain.
Check out Matador’s detailed review of the On Cloudtrax hiking boots
Price: $210 (often on sale at REI)
Best for trail and city life: Xero Shoes Ridgeway hiking boots
Photo courtesy Xero Shoes
Photo courtesy Xero Shoes
Photo courtesy Xero Shoes
Photo courtesy Xero ShoesHikers who crave a barefoot feel on the trail can look to the Xero Shoes Ridgeway hiking boots. These minimalist boots prioritize a close-to-the-ground experience, allowing for increased flexibility and agility compared to traditional hiking boots. The upper is crafted from water-resistant leather that provides some protection from the elements while remaining surprisingly flexible. A thin, puncture-resistant sole offers enough protection for most trails without compromising on ground feel. A lacing system with ankle lock allows for a secure and customized fit.
Despite their minimalist design, the Ridgeways are surprisingly adept at handling varied terrain. The grippy FeelTrue® sole provides good traction on loose rock, dirt, and even some light snow. Additionally, a removable 2mm insole offers a touch of extra cushioning for those who prefer it. However, it’s important to note that these boots are not designed for heavy backpacking or very technical hikes due to the minimal structure and support.
Here’s why these boots stand out:
Suitability and Break-in: Since the Ridgeways are minimalist boots, they’re best suited for experienced hikers who are comfortable with a close-to-the-ground feel. They might not be ideal for beginners or those who need a lot of ankle support. Also, due to the minimal sole and upper, a break-in period is less necessary compared to traditional hiking boots. However, it’s still recommended to wear them for shorter hikes or walks initially to allow your feet to adjust to the barefoot feel.
Sizing and Care: Xero Shoes Ridgeways are known to fit true to size and come in both men’s and women’s sizes. They are wider than most traditional hiking boots to accommodate a natural toe spread. For care, the water-resistant leather upper can be spot-cleaned with a damp cloth and mild soap. Since the sole is thin, it’s wise to avoid overly rocky or technical terrain that could lead to punctures.
Check out Matador’s detailed review of the Xero Shoes Ridgeways hiking boots
Price: $144.99
Best for desert hiking: Erem Xerocole hiking boots
Added perk: They wear like Vans, transporting me back to me '90s skater kid roots. Photo: Tim Wenger
The Xerocole blends perfectly with desert surrounds. Photo: Tim Wenger
Comfort and performance. Photo: Tim Wenger
Ignore the horrible calf tattoo. Photo: Tim WengerThe Erem Xerocole is a hiking boot designed for desert hikes. It’s built for durability and comfort, with a full-grain leather upper that protects your feet from the elements and a high-traction, recycled rubber sole that provides good grip on loose terrain. The boot also has a shock-absorbing cork insole that cushions your feet on long hikes.
There are two versions of the Xerocole: the regular Xerocole and the Xerocole Expedition. The Expedition is a higher-cut boot that provides more ankle support, making it a good choice for off-trail hiking. Both versions of the boot are available in men’s and women’s sizes.
Here’s why these boots stand out:
Sustainability: Erem focuses on creating a sustainable product. The Xerocole is part of the world’s first Biocircular hiking collection. This means the materials used are 100% traceable and can be broken down and repurposed into new boots at the end of their lifespan. They also use 70% recycled rubber in the soles.
Performance: These boots prioritize breathability to keep your feet cool in hot weather. The cork insole provides shock absorption and the high-traction sole offers good grip on various terrains, including sand, rocks, and loose soil. Reviewers have also mentioned that the boots excel at ascending rocky trails.
Durability: The Xerocole is built with a full-grain leather upper, known for its sturdiness and resistance to abrasions. This makes them suitable for rugged hikes where you might encounter sharp objects or challenging terrain. However, some users online rated the durability only average.
Check out Matador’s detailed review of the Erem Xerocole hiking boots
Price: $49.97 clearance
More like thisBackpackingThe Ultimate Summer Backpacking Gear GuideUS Gov’t Warns Travelers to Look Out for These 5 Spring Break Travel Scams
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) this week published a consumer alert just in time for spring break, warning consumers about spring break travel scams to watch out for as Americans travel this month and next.
“Not only could your dream vacation turn into a nightmare,” warns the FTC of these common spring break travel scams, “but if you pay, it’ll be hard to get your money back.”
The Federal Trade Commission is the US government body tasked with protecting consumers and promoting competition via consumer education; by working with law enforcement agencies to protect consumers from unfair business practices, including deceptive advertising, fraudulent schemes, and privacy violations; and by providing a platform for consumers to report issues and violations. The FTC is also tasked with helping consumers to recognize and avoid travel scams, such as the ones detailed in the alert.
These are the spring break travel scams the FTC warned against, along with tips and hints for making sure you don’t fall for travel scams.
Travel scam 1: “Free” vacationsThe FTC describes this scam as any type of message you get saying you’ve won a free vacation. “If you respond to these offers,” warns the website, “you’ll quickly learn that you have to pay some fees and taxes first.” Of course, there’s no vacation at all — it’s just a scam to get you to transfer information and money to the scammer.
How to avoid it: The best way to avoid this scam is by using common sense. If you can’t remember entering a contest, it’s probably a scam. If you’ve legitimately won a travel prize, you won’t be asked to pay anything in advance. If you can’t tell if it’s real, do some research. Look up the company, the email address or phone number the message came from, and even Google the specific language of the message word-for-word. Legitimate prizes will be announced via phone calls or emails, which will always look professional and have contact information for the gift-giving organization. If the email has spelling errors, doesn’t have basic contact information, or lacks legitimate details, it’s probably a scam.
Travel scam 2: Calls from bots offering vacation deals
You should be very suspicious of any calls out-of-the-blue offering travel deals. Photo: PeopleImages.com – Yuri A/Shutterstock
Right off the bat: a legitimate company won’t spam you with phone calls. If you’re getting robocalls from companies selling you travel products at suspiciously low prices, stay suspicious — it’s probably a spring break travel scam. The FTC warns that robocalls to sell you something are illegal, unless a company has your explicit permission to call you.
You can report robocall scams at this link. You can even report calls if you’re not sure if they’re scams, as legitimate businesses not doing anything wrong won’t be punished if they’re incorrectly reported. And if a call appears on your phone’s caller ID as an unknown numbers or a nonsensical name, that’s also a red flag.
How to avoid it: You shouldn’t buy anything from a cold call over the phone, and should never give your credit card over the phone, unless you’re entirely sure you’re talking to a reputable, legitimate company. To find out if you are talking to a legitimate company, ask for lots of information. Ask for the names and contact info for the people you’re talking to, and call them back/test it out. Ask for a website and for other methods for paying other than over the phone.
Always make sure you’re talking to a real person from the very beginning. If you’re talking to a bot, hang up. If you’re not sure if you’re talking to a bot, just start asking unexpected questions, which bots often can’t respond to. And beware of calls creating a sense of urgency, as legitimate businesses won’t pressure you with scare tactics.
Travel scam 3: International travel document scams and cloned websites
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One of the most popular spring break travel scams is to claim you need some sort of urgent visa or passport document for your upcoming travel, and then charge you to get it. Of course, it’s totally made up. You may also see sites called “clones” — sites that look like official government websites, but actually send your information to scammers, instead of the US Department of State (or whatever country’s embassy you were trying to reach).
“These sites charge you high fees,” warns the FTC, “including fees for services that are free on the U.S. Department of State’s website.”
How to avoid it: On the State Department website, you can look up exact requirements for any visas or other travel documents based on where you’re going. That is always correct, and if someone calls you or you see an online ad saying otherwise, it’s probably a scam. The same page will also give you specific instructions and links on how to apply for any required travel documents. Most countries charge very low fees for visas (but not all).
Travel scam 4: International driving permit scams
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One of the most dangerous spring break travel scams to fall for is buying a fake international driving permit. You can buy fake IDPs online, in person, or even at temporary storefronts in some countries. “You could face legal problems or travel delays if you’re detained for using it to drive in a foreign country,” warns the FTC.
How to avoid it: Fortunately, this is also one of the easiest spring break travel scams to avoid. There are only three organizations legally allowed to issue international driving permits: The US State Department, the American Automobile Association (i.e. Triple A, or AAA), and the American Automobile Touring Alliance (AATA). If it comes from anyone else, it’s a scam.
Travel scam 5: Vacation home dupes
@alixearle What do we do now!?!!!! #girlstrip #positano ♬ original sound – Alix Earle
Vacation home rentals are more popular than ever, especially for groups who find it more convenient to book on Airbnb or VRBO instead of getting multiple hotel rooms. And while it’s easy to find home rentals, it’s also easy for scammers to find your booking information.
The FTC warns that scammers may make copies of Airbnb listings and advertise them as if they owned them, which can lead to lost money, lost time, or even showing up to your booking, only to find it’s already rented by the legitimate owner. The US government is actively prosecuting and fining people who commit this type of fraud, so it’s very important to report any instances of this spring break travel scam you come across.
How to avoid it: To avoid scams involving fake listings and double bookings, you’ll need to do a little extra research before you book. Be wary of listings with unrealistic prices, stolen photos, or vague descriptions. Verify the address using GoogleMaps, and check for reviews to see if past renters encountered issues. You can also message owners via Airbnb and other legitimate booking platforms to ask questions. Never communicate or pay outside the platform, and avoid any property that asks for payment via wire transfers, gift cards, or cash payments. Legitimate rentals will have reviews, clear communication, and a proper rental agreement. If something seems off, trust your gut and look elsewhere.
Travel scam 5: Flight scamsFlight scams are some of the most timely spring break travel scams, since so many travelers plan last-minute vacations. If anyone tries to sell you a charter or private flight to a destination, be sure to do your research and make sure it comes from a legitimate company. Scammers will ask you to pay a deposit (or the whole price) on a flight that doesn’t even exist. This could be for travel to destinations, or tourist activities like flyovers or seaplane tours.
How to avoid it: Not just anyone is allowed to sell charter services to the public, and the State Department maintains a list of approved public charter flights. Any company you book with should be listed on that website, and the contact and name information should match. “If the charter filing is not approved by DOT before the package is sold, you’re probably dealing with a dishonest charter operator,” says the FTC website. Flight scams can also look like cloned website scams — you may think you’re booking a legitimate flight deal, but you’re actually giving your money (and your information) to scammers.
Chiloé, Chile’s Most Mysterious Island, Bewitches With Its Folklore, Food, and Forests
You have a phantom ship named Caleuche to thank for the haze obscuring Chiloé from sight as you sail from mainland Chile. Chilotes say this enchanted galleon travels underwater at breakneck speeds, shapeshifts to avoid detection, and rewards local merchants with booty when they dare strike a deal with its crew of wizards. Even if you don’t believe in sorcery and superstition, this mysterious archipelago will disarm you with its rugged wilderness and charming fishing villages.
Isla Grande de Chiloé, Chile’s second-largest island, is part of the southern Los Lagos Region. Its relative isolation kept Spanish influences at bay and even today, indigenous Huilliche and Chono culture remains strong. Following the same climate pattern as the Pacific Northwest, frequent rainfall nourishes the temperate rainforests edging the western coast and southern wetlands. This probably bears some responsibility for those ethereal fogs but you’ll not be able to resist keeping watch for maverick ghost ships when mist draws in.
Chilote mythology
Photo: Hannah D. Cooper
There’s no escaping tales of witches and wizards, mermaids and cryptids in Chiloé. Chilote fishermen will tell you they owe a successful haul to La Pincoya, a dancing mermaid who would have spent the evening prior gazing out to sea. A poor bounty suggests she turned her back on the fish that night. El Trauco is the axe-wielding dwarf nobody wants to encounter in the twisted woodlands. The Coo has the body of a rooster and the head of a cat whose caw implies wizards are close. El Basilisco Chilote petrified islanders long before J. K. Rowling penned Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets.
Wood-carved effigies of Chiloé’s mythological creatures line Blanco Encalada in Castro. They’re the favored subject of trinkets sold at the artisanal markets in the east coast villages. Stop to admire the handspun woolen hats, scarves, ponchos, and sweaters knitted before your eyes at these feria. Chilote superstition says that when the needles of two knitters meet, they’ll be friends for life.
Photo: Hannah D. Cooper
Around the island – palafitos and penguinsPalafitos are the postcard image of Chiloé. These colorful stilt houses bridge land and sea and harmonize with the tides. Living quarters occupy the upper level whereas a lower terrace is used for fishing and other maritime tasks. Most remaining palafitos sit on the outskirts of Castro, the island capital on the sheltered eastern side, and are viewable from miradors along Ruta 5.
A small number of palafitos are used for tourist accommodation. La Mar Casa is a traditional two-bedroom palafito with an overwater deck and a larch wood exterior to waterproof and insulate the home. This same nail-less tiling applies to many of the UNESCO-designated churches dotted all over Chiloé. You’ll pass these as you drive through the villages and out to beauty spots. Some, such as those in Quicavi and Isla Aucar, are left unpainted whereas those in Chonchi are painted vibrant colors. Dalcahue’s chapel is a striking black and white.
Bookend your time in Chiloé with a trip to see the penguin colony of Puñihuil in the northwest of the island – the only place in the world where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins co-exist. They breed and nest in October with hatching season following in January. The colony departs for six months at sea at the end of March.
Hiking in ChiloéPhoto: Hannah D. Cooper
Muelle de las Almas hangs over the western shore between the Chiloé National Park and the Tepuhueico woodlands. According to Huilliche legend, the Dock of Souls is manned by Tempilcahue who transports souls to the afterlife. Getting there as a member of the living is as simple as strapping on your hiking boots. You’ll pay a modest fee at the Oficina Muelle De Las Almas before following a dirt road to the trailhead (doable in a regular sedan during summer). The trail to the dock art installation ducks into the woods before emerging on the headlands with views as far as the eye can see.
Another installation awaits you on Lemuy Island where you can “fly a broom” over the coast at the Muelle de los Brujos (Dock of Wizards). A low-effort forest trail to see the Cascadas de Tocoihue near San Juan is a worthy detour. These twin waterfalls are at their best after a rainy night.
Parque Tantauco dominates the southernmost and wildest part of Chiloé Island and marks the border with Patagonia. Start at the Yaldad Visitor Center next to Lago Yaldad where three short trails weave through the forest. Continuing south brings you to the Laguna Chaiguata campsite where several longer day trails cross suspension bridges and waterfalls. Accessible by sea and air, multi-day treks from the remote Caleta Inío sector include the two-day Quilanlar Circuit and the eight-day Tantauco Route.
Curanto and licor de oro
Photo: Hannah D. Cooper
Curanto is the dish to sniff out on Chiloé Island. Shellfish, seasoned chicken, spicy sausages, and chapaleles (Chilote potato dumplings) would traditionally be placed in a bubbling pit of stock under the ground, similar to New Zealand’s hāngī. These are coated in nalca (Chilean rhubarb) leaves, and heated by the hot stones that give the dish its name. The flavor intensifies the longer it stews and you should ask for a cup of broth on the side.
Curanto is surprisingly scarce in quinchos (Chilote restaurants) during the sleepy winter season. La Oveja (Castro), Curantos Y Asados Caleuche (Chacao), and Fogon y Euincho el Hoyo Caliente (Ancud) usually keep a cauldron brewing. It’s designed to share so solo travelers may need to settle for caldillo de congrio (Chilean fish soup). September is a good time to sample curanto at a fonda open-air festival around Independence Day in Chile.
Look for vendors selling homemade licor de oro at the feria. Chiloé’s signature “liquid gold” blends aguardiente, whey, and lemon to produce a satisfying mix of sweet and bitter. Other flavors include mango, coffee, guindao (fermented cherries), and manjar (Chilean dulce de leche). The sellers are generous with samples of this tasty spirit exclusive to Chiloé to ensure you find your perfect match.
Photo: Hannah D. Cooper
Getting to Chiloé IslandTransmarchilay operates 24/7 crossings between Pargua and Chacao. Thirty-minute sailings cost 15,300 Chilean pesos (around $15) per car and are first-come, first-served. Puerto Montt’s El Tepual Airport is the closest option where low-cost flights take 1 hour and 45 minutes from Santiago.
A rental car is the best means of getting around Chiloé. Avis, Hertz, and Chilean Rent-A-Car have kiosks at El Tepual and vehicles should be pre-booked. A high-clearance vehicle or four-wheel drive is needed between July and October and at all times for the far-flung Tantauco Park.
Photo: Hannah D. Cooper
Unique accommodations in Chiloé
We hope you love the spaces and stays we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
Castro is where to sleep in a palafito in Chiloé. Otherwise, you can hang your cap at Casa del Faro – a Chilote lighthouse Airbnb built using the typical larch and cypress tiling with amazing views across the peninsula. This forest treehouse Airbnb on Chiloé Island has a stargazing moon roof and a pellet stove for cozy nights sipping fireside licor de oro and sharing spooky stories.
Chile’s trailblazing sustainable luxury hotel brand knocked it out of the park with Tierra Chiloé. Sea-view suites resemble mini chalets with woodsy paneling and handwoven fabrics. The restaurant serves curanto and the spa spotlights modern-day magic: a heated infinity pool. Excursions include mountain biking, horseback riding, trekking, shellfishing, and nature bathing.
While many destinations in Chile take their toll physically – looking at you, Patagonia and the Atacama Desert – Chiloé is as taxing as you want it to be. It has all the intrigue and culture of Rapa Nui without the hefty price tag of visiting Chile’s Polynesian island.
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