Matador Network's Blog, page 118
September 4, 2024
The One Simple Tool Every Traveler Should Be Using More

You never know what type of weather you’re going to get in the mountains. It’s a fact I’ve come to embrace since moving to Denver in 2021. On the last prime-season camping trip in 2024, back-and-forth weather was top of mind as it went from blazing hot, to chilly, to lashing rain, to high-30s at night around Colorado’s Green Mountain Reservoir near Silverthorne.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
Still, the in-between bouts of sunshine left plenty of time for kayaking, hikes, and exploring. The area is blessedly devoid of service. Though as someone who likes to learn about a place through its plants — native, introduced, or invasive, they all tell a story — this did present one problem: I couldn’t quickly identify what I was seeing. However, my iPhone’s Visual Look Up tool made it easy to do so on the drive back.
Apple released Visual Look Up in the spring of 2024. It’s one of my favorite uses of machine learning to come out this year, and has proved its worth countless times on trips near and far this year.
The technology is complicated, but the concept is simple. Photos saved on an iPhone’s camera roll, either a screenshot or a picture taken on the phone, has an info button. If the phone analyzes the content of the picture (as long as it’s running iOS 15 or later) and can identify what’s depicted, it can be immediately looked up. The icon might change to a paw print, indicating an animal was identified, or a leaf, for a plant. Tapping that icon when service is available will identify what’s in the picture, including the dog breed, plant species, landmark, or any other important information.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
This isn’t exactly new-to-the-world tech. I previously relied on plant identification apps to do the same for plants, and then Google Lens (and before that, physical books). Apple puts it all in one place, though. Visual Look Up isn’t topic-specific like the plant ID apps, and I’ve pretty much abandoned Google Lens in recent months for the more reliable information Apple gives.
You don’t have to be a plant nerd or feel the draw to be able to name every dog breed you see for Visual Look Up to make your travel more fulfilling. Seeing a place is one thing, but learning about that place and what has shaped it is really what makes travel worth the unavoidable inconveniences that come along with any journey.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines
For me, that means being able to describe to my toddler exactly what type of flower she is obsessed with at the moment (and being able to tell if it’s safe to pick and tuck in her hair). The same goes for identifying various bugs she tries to pick up, or the history of some obscure landmark with a plaque rendered unreadable by time and the elements.
Travel is all about immersing yourself in what makes a place different from anywhere else. Even sterile resorts that feel like they could be anywhere have interesting features that can tell a story of the way that people and ideas move around the world. Digging deeper and doing some research leads to much more fulfilling trips. The first step to doing so can be as simple as taking a picture and diving into an identification rabbit hole.
Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Houston

Houston is a hub for many things: the energy industry, space exploration, a varied food scene, all kinds of arts, and sports, to name a few. But what stood out to me during my recent August visit was the feeling that it’s a city where anyone can feel at home. Not only is Houston the largest city in Texas and the fourth largest city in the United States, but according to a 2024 WalletHub ranking, it’s also the most diverse major city in the country and America’s fourth most diverse city overall. That means there’s lots of cool things to do and inspiring people to meet.
Whether you’re in town to explore the city’s arty side, catch a ball game, experience world-class cuisine, or relax in style, Houston promises a visit you won’t soon forget. Here are some of the best things to do, places to eat, and where to stay when you go.
Things to do in HoustonWander around The Post
Photo: Mark Taylor Cunningham/Shutterstock
The Post, or POST Houston, used to be a post office (specifically, the Barbara Jordan Post Office, named after the first Black senator elected in Texas since Reconstruction). It’s since become an urban redevelopment project with spaces for culture, food, events, and coworking, as well as a rooftop park and farm called the Skylawn from where you can see panoramic views of the Houston skyline. Inside is a mix of dining options, including international options like the West African fare at ChopnBlok, bars, and ice cream stalls. The Post also hosts events like live music, art exhibitions, and pop-up markets, so be sure to see what’s on while you’re in town.
Post Houston: 401 Franklin St, Houston, TX 77201
Snap the street aesthetic at Graffiti Park
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Graffiti Park, also known as the Houston Graffiti Building, is an outdoor art space showcasing murals and creativity from the city’s street art community. It’s in the heart of Houston and is a testament to talented artists who use the walls as their canvas. The artwork is frequently updated, making for a unique experience each visit. Designs include abstract pieces, cultural icons, and tributes, including one for Kobe Bryant. Remember to bring your camera.
Graffiti Park: 1503 Chartres St, Houston, TX 77003
Watch the Astros at Minute Maid Park
Photo: Javen/Shutterstock
Attending an Astros baseball game at Minute Maid Park is a quintessential Houston experience. The park is located downtown, and the stadium is known for its historic train features and retractable roof. I got to see both at a game the Astros won, cheered on by a hive of buzzing fans sporting orange and black, followed by a fireworks show. Minute Maid Park also has several amenities and food options on site, including traditional ballgame fare like hot dogs and nachos, as well as gourmet options like Cajun étouffée nachos, roasted vegetables, and pumpkin-flavored chicken wings at the exclusive Gallagher Club.
Minute Maid Park: 501 Crawford St, Houston, TX 77002
Catch an event at NRG Stadium
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
NRG Stadium is Houston’s venue for significant events; it hosted both Beyoncé’s Renaissance Tour and Taylor Swift’s Eras tour during their Houston stops. It’s also home to the Houston Texans if you’re a football fan and want to catch some NFL action while you’re in town. I watched a different kind of football during my visit: a Leagues Cup soccer match between Lionel Messi’s Inter Miami and Tigres, a club from the Mexican Premier League. Messi didn’t play or attend due to an injury, but the game and crowd buzzed with excitement nonetheless.
NRG Stadium: 3 NRG Pkwy, Houston, TX 77054
Take a swing at PopStroke
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
PopStroke is an entertainment venue in Katy, a city west of Houston proper in the Greater Houston metropolitan area. The franchise was designed in part by Tiger Woods and offers a modern twist on the traditional mini-golf experience by presenting courses that mimic actual greens. This PopStroke has two 18-hole putting courses that cater to all skill levels. The venue also has a lively atmosphere and dining area, craft beer on tap, and an extensive menu, including yummy appetizers and hand-scooped ice cream.
PopStroke: 23110 Grand Cir Blvd, Katy, TX 77449
Where to eat and drink in HoustonChopnBlok
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Located in POST Houston, ChopnBlok is a fast-casual spot with a menu that celebrates West African specialties, including jollof rice, stewed plantains, and meat pies. It also offers East African fusion in the form of coconut curry. You can’t miss the smell of traditional African spices wafting through the restaurant, plus the Afrobeats bangers in the background.
ChopnBlok: 401 Franklin St Suite 1450, Houston, TX 77201
Bludorn
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Equal parts chic, modern, and approachable, Bludorn is one of Houston’s trendiest restaurants. Chef Aaron Bludorn helms the kitchen, turning out modern, French-inspired fare with an emphasis on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Start with oysters however you like them — raw, fried, roasted, or smoked — followed by mains like branzino with étouffée or dry-aged duck with rice pilaf. The wine and cocktails list is also impressive, and there are plenty of delicious mocktails to choose from if you don’t partake.
Bludorn Restaurant: 807 Taft St, Houston, TX 77019
Koffeteria
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Located in the heart of East Downtown, Koffeteria is a cool, quirky bakery and cafe that embodies the personality and energy of Pastry Chef Vanarin Fuch. His pastries and desserts are anything but ordinary, with yummy fusion pastries like pho kolaches and black sesame salted egg yolk mochi pushing culinary boundaries while paying homage to Cambodian roots. You can also find specialty drinks at Koffeteria, such as the Salty Cambodian (a latte with butter, sweetened condensed milk, and Maldon salt) and the Salted Lemon Soda, which is perfect if you want a refreshing drink to beat the heat.
Koffeteria 1110 Hutchins St, Houston, TX 77003
Luv’em LechesView this post on InstagramA post shared by Luv’em Leches (@luvemleches)
Luv ’em Leches is the perfect cure for late-night cravings and sweet tooth satisfaction. It’s located in the East End (though delivery is also an option). While I’m always happy to have traditional tres leches, what stood out to me were the flavors that Luv ’em Leches offers. The cakes have plenty of leche and come in various flavors, including piña colada, Reese’s peanut butter, and strawberry.
Luv’em Leches: 1010 Prairie St, Houston, TX 77002
Lucille’s
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Lucille’s is a beloved Houston spot doing Southern comfort food in a sophisticated way. It’s the place to be for a relaxing breakfast or brunch. Lucille’s is located in the Museum District in a vintage-style building that pays tribute to owners Chris and Ben Williams’ great-grandmother, Lucille B. Smith. The restaurant is relaxing and welcoming, with must-try dishes like the famous fried chicken and waffles, chili biscuits, and shrimp and grits.
Lucille’s: 5512 La Branch St, Houston, TX 77004
Handies Douzo
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Handies Douzo makes sushi with quality ingredients. It’s a small spot, so the atmosphere is intimate and makes for nice conversation with guests and sushi preparers alike. The simple menu features hand rolls with fresh fish and seafood, including amberjack, yellowtail tuna, and scallops, all perfectly seasoned and made to order in front of you.
Handies Douzo: 3510 White Oak Dr., Suite A, Houston, TX 77007
Where to stay in Houston: Marriott Marquis Houston
Photo: Bonnibelle Chukwuneta
Located in the heart of downtown, a short walk from Minute Maid Park, the Marriott Marquis Houston is a standout choice for a memorable stay. Its rooftop deck is home to the only Texas-shaped lazy river in the world, so you get breathtaking views of the Houston skyline while you relax. There are a number of restaurants to choose from at the hotel, including Walker Street Kitchen (Southern-inspired breakfast and brunch), Biggio’s (a two-story sports bar serving American fare), and Xochi (a Oaxacan culinary experience). There are also a ton of great restaurants nearby the hotel, which gets points for its walkability.
Before you leave, be sure to make time for some pampering. The on-site PureSpa offers facials, massages, and other therapeutic services that are nothing short of bliss. I had a hot stone massage while I visited, and it was one of the better ways to spend some time.
How to get to and around Houston
Photo: Nate Hovee/Shutterstock
Houston has two major airports: George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH) and William P. Hobby Airport (HOU). Both airports are well-connected to cities across the US and internationally, making Houston an accessible destination no matter where you’re flying from.
Once you land, you can use a rideshare app, taxi, or airport shuttle to get into the city proper, or you can rent a car. Getting around Houston is pretty straightforward. The city is car-centric, with a vast highway network. I didn’t have the opportunity to try public transportation, but there were bus stops and light rail services a short walk from the Marriott Marquis Houston. Renting bikes and scooters is another popular way to get around Houston.
The No. 1 Rule For a Successful Road Trip, According to the ‘Amateur Traveler’

Chris Christensen has run the travel blog and podcast Amateur Traveler since 2005. His podcast alone has more than 900 episodes. He’s clearly not an amateur in the sense that he’s new to travel or unpaid for his work, but he is an amateur when you consider the root of the word.
Amateur, Christensen explains on the Matador Network podcast No Fixed Address: The World’s Most Extraordinary People, comes from the same Latin root as amore, meaning love. “And so amateur is to do something for the love of it,” he tells Michael Motamedi and Vanessa Salas.
This “amateur” approach has led to a life full of engaging travel stories that he shares far and wide.
Christensen traveled around the United States growing up. The only other international country he’d been to by the time he graduated college was Canada (he watched the moon landing on a tiny television at a campsite in British Columbia). “It certainly made me love national parks, love traveling, love a good road trip,” Christensen says. Once his kids were older, he started going abroad.
A traveler’s life wasn’t always in the cards. Christensen worked as a software programmer for 42 years, and he initially was going to do a podcast about tech (“I am a nerd by vocation,” he explains). He also did a religious podcast for a year.
Then, “we had some friends over for Memorial Day and all the best stories were travel stories,” Christensen says. “So I said that’s it. I’m starting a podcast. It’s going to be about travel.”
He was traveling four weeks a year at that point, because that’s how much vacation he had, and was putting out more than 40 podcasts a year. He started inviting friend new and old to share their travel stories as well — from Reno to Afghanistan. Other than a few exceptions, each episode is about someone who truly loved a place they visited and had an experience to share.
The goal? That “I’ve helped you use your vacation time well and pick out a destination that is worth your time. It doesn’t matter as much whether it’s my favorite destination or not. It matters whether you’re going to enjoy it.”

Photo: Chris Chistensen
Along the way, he’s learned a few important tips. Top of mind relates to road trips. “What is your number one rule for a road trip? Go with people you like,” Christensen says. “Nothing else matters.”
He also suggests that people set a quest on their trips. That can be seeing a number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in a region, or going to every ballpark in a country. Micro quests, like finding the best mofongo in Puerto Rico, can also help make travel more fulfilling. One of Christensen’s personal quests is that when he dies, he wants the number of countries he’s visited to be higher than the number of years he lived.
For more about how Christensen built a life around travel, why even anti-cruise people should consider hopping on a ship (the right type of ship), how to pack light, his favorite cities, and more travel tips that help him get around, listen to the full No Fixed Address episode on your favorite podcast platform.
A New Peru Marine Reserve Protects Rare Whales, Mantas, Penguins, and More

The Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve, in the vast blue expanse off Peru’s far northern coast, is an impressive new addition to the country’s growing network of more than 70 protected areas. The new reserve covers an extensive 300,000 square acres of ocean, making it one of the largest protected marine areas in the region. It’s named after Miguel Grau, a revered Peruvian naval hero, and is an excellent example of the country’s commitment to preserving its rich marine biodiversity. The space also honors the country’s people and culture, as the reserve’s protections extend to the 15,000 families within fishing villages along the coast, many of whom operate from small sailboats and artisanal boats using traditional fishing methods passed down through generations.
The Peruvian government formally announced its intention to create the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve in 2022, which was met with generally positive support from environmental groups, scientists, and local communities, who saw it as a crucial step towards preserving global biodiversity. The next two years were spent creating management plans and official boundaries for the area, and it officially opened in 2024.
The reserve is home to 70 percent of the country’s marine species
Photo: Peru Travel
The Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve is a haven for a stunning variety of marine species. It’s in the reserve that tropical currents meet the cold Humboldt current, creating a unique and highly productive marine environment full of everything from tiny plankton to giant whales. There’s an extraordinary and array of life, and among the many species that call this reserve home are several that are considered endangered or vulnerable, including sea turtles, humpback whales, and hammerhead sharks. The area is also a crucial breeding and feeding ground for numerous fish species, making it an important zone on a global scale as it supports healthy marine ecosystems across the Pacific Ocean.
Establishing and enforcing the protection rules is important to fight the growing threats of overfishing, climate change, and pollution. Peru’s northern coast was once a hotbed of industrial fishing and now has seen significant depletion of fish stocks over the decades. That has impacted other rare species visitors may find in the area, including giant manta rays and birds like the Peruvian pelican and Humboldt penguin. One goal of the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve is to reverse this trend by creating a protected area where marine life can recover and thrive. For visitors, that makes the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve one of the best places in Peru to see rare species and a healthy ecosystem teeming with life at every turn.
Different zones in the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve
Photo: Peru Travel
The Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve is divided into four separate zones, of which the furthest north section is the largest.
Punta Sal ReefsThe Punta Sal Reefs, located off the coast near the popular beach town of Punta Sal, are one of the most ecologically significant sections of the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve. The area is known for vibrant coral reefs, a critical habitat for a wide array of marine species, including numerous types of fish, invertebrates, and sea turtles. The reefs are formed by a combination of hard and soft corals, creating a complex underwater landscape that supports high levels of biodiversity. The reefs are also a breeding ground for species that are vital to both the food web and the local fisheries.
The reefs along these section of coast need to be protected as they act as a buffer for the shoreline, protecting areas on land from storms, waves, flooding, and erosion. But key as they are, the reefs face significant threats from climate change, including coral bleaching and ocean acidification. Management within this sector is focused on measures to keep the corals and alive and healthy, while also promoting sustainable activities like snorkeling and diving to both expose travelers to the beauty of the ocean while simultaneously generating tourism revenue.
Cabo Blanco-El Ñuro Sector
Photo: BETO SANTILLAN/Shutterstok
The Cabo Blanco-El Ñuro sector of the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve has historically been a hotbed for fishing and sport-fishing, once including notable figures like Ernest Hemingway. It’s closest to El Ñuro, a coastal village with a resident population of year-round green sea turtles. The marine ecosystems in this sector are incredibly diverse, with coral formations, kelp forests, and rocky coastal habitats for a wide range of species. Management in this sector is focused on strict fishing regulations, as well as creating no-take zones to ensure the long-term sustainability of marine life. In this part of the reserve, fishermen and locals are extremely involved in management and economic decisions.
Máncora Bank SectorThe Máncora Bank sector is the furthest out section of the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve, with deep water and a diversity of species, making it one of the most biologically important areas within the reserve. The area is particularly known for its populations of large pelagic fish, such as tuna and marlin, as well as its importance as a feeding ground for dolphins and migrating whales. Conservation efforts in the Máncora Bank sector are focused on regulating fishing activities to prevent overexploitation, protecting critical habitats, and scientific research, with ongoing studies aimed at understanding the impacts of environmental change on marine ecosystems.
Isla Foca Sector
Photo: Christian Vinces/Shutterstock
The Isla Foca sector is a small section off the coast of Piura, near the town of Paita. It’s a refuge for sea lions, dolphins, and numerous species of fish and invertebrates, and the coastal area is a breeding ground for seabirds and boobies that nest on Isla Foca’s rocky cliffs. You can visit the island only on boats, but you’ll need to book a tour through either a local fisherman or the in the small town of La Islilla, which does have a visitor center for the island run by Seacology.
Travel planning and logistics
Humboldt penguins are considered vulnerable and live closer to to the southern areas of the reserve. Photo: Daniel Lamborn/Shutterstock
Visiting the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve is absolutely possible, but requires just a little more effort than a quick tourist trip to a city like Lima. The reserve is accessible from several coastal towns in northern Peru, with the most popular entry points being the cities of Piura and Tumbes. From these hubs, you’ll need to arrange transportation to various parts of the reserve, rent a car, or book with a tour operator who can arrange airport transfers. Several tour companies around the coastal towns offer boat trips, whale-watching tours, and more, including Pacifico Adventures and Oceanica Expeditions in Organos (just south of Máncora), or Chelonia Dive Center and Spondylus Mancora for divers.
Máncora
Photo: Beto SANTILLAN/Shutterstock
Máncora is the most popular and well-developed tourist town in northern Peru, famous for its sun-soaked beaches, prime surfing conditions, and vibrant nightlife; it’s considered a party town among Peruvians. It’s a hub for both backpackers and luxury travelers, with everything from budget-friendly hostels to upscale beachfront resorts. Many hotels and resorts in Máncora have leisure amenities like swimming pools, spa services, and direct beach access, making it a popular choice for travelers who want to location for those looking to relax by the ocean. But you’ll still find plenty of affordable options.
Visiting the Grau Tropical Sea National Reserve from Máncora is relatively easy, as the town serves as a convenient starting point for tours and excursions into the reserve, particularly to the Máncora Bank sector. Local tour operators offer guided trips that include activities such as snorkeling, diving, and whale watching, as well as eco-focused tours focusing on marine conservation and the sustainable practices of local fishermen. Getting there is easy, as there are several direct flights per day from Lima to Tumbes, which is about a 60-mile drive from Máncora.
Cabo Blanco
Photo: Peru Travel/Walter H. Wust
Cabo Blanco is a small fishing village steeped in the culture and lifestyle of fishing, and is where Ernest Hemingway visited in the 1950s when they were filming the movie adaptation of The Old Man and the Sea. Today, it continues to draw visitors interested in both its historical significance and its fishing opportunities. Cabo Blanco retains much of its old-world charm, with modest accommodations that reflect the town’s fishing heritage. Most lodging options are small guesthouses or boutique hotels, many with lovely views of the Pacific Ocean. It’s a quieter, more low-key atmosphere than Máncora.
When to visit the reserve
Photo: Peru Travel/Walter H. Wust
The best time to visit the reserve is during the dry season, which runs from May to November. Those months have more predictably pleasant weather and generally calmer sea conditions, making it a better time for water-based activities such as diving and snorkeling. The dry season is also the best time to see migrating humpback whales, who pass through the area between June and October. During the off-season, availability for tours and hotels may be more limited.
How to get thereGetting to the northern part of Peru usually requires one extra flight from Lima, and some driving. From Lima, you’ll want to fly to Aeropuerto Internacional de Chiclayo in Chiclayo, then drive about three hours to Piura, or fly to Cap. FAP Pedro Canga Rodríguez Airport in Tumbes, then drive two hours south to Máncora.
The Standard Hotel in Miami Beach Is Going All in on ‘Sextember’ With Game Nights, Shibari Drawing, and More

Let’s talk about sex, and let’s do so in a welcoming and safe environment is the message from The Standard, Miami Beach, as they build on the success of previous years of its month-long packed roster of programs and workshops for Sextember. To celebrate Sexual Awareness Month, this September’s event is designed to challenge societal taboos, promote open dialogue about sexuality, and foster a supportive community.
“As an adults-only property, we’ve noticed a growing interest among our members in exploring sexual health topics,” explains a spokesperson for The Standard. “We believe that by approaching these subjects with positivity and playfulness, we can create a more inclusive and empowering environment for everyone.”
Sextember will feature a diverse range of workshops, panels, and events, all centered around the theme of sexual health, wellness, and empowerment. From tantric experiences to anal pleasure workshops to comedy nights, all guests (adults 21 and older) are welcome, and there’s sure to be something that tickles your fancy or intrigue.

Photo: The Standard Spa, Miami Beach
Hosted by The Standard Spa, some of the ticketed events include access to the spa’s indoor baths, but you might want to make a weekend of it and couple a workshop with a stay and visit to the oceanfront wellness center, which is one of Miami’s finest.




Sextember’s hottest ticket is the “Soulgasm: A Tantric Experience” workshop on September 7. This heart-opening session connects participants to their most powerful, creative, healing energy. Led by experienced practitioners, the workshop incorporates unique techniques to foster intimacy, connection, and self-love.
Tantric and organism workshops are becoming more widely available. Many are online, which is excellent for those who live in more rural areas, but attending a program in person will likely be a more fulfilling experience. These workshops aim to help build confidence by helping people understand they don’t have to fit into a single model of desire.
This will be the third year The Standard has run the event, which started after Standard members showed interest in the spa’s tantra workshops. However, this year’s Sextember is the first time many workshops are open to the public.
“There are still a lot of stigmas around sexual health, so putting our Standard spin on the month-long workshops was important for us to open the dialogue and eliminate any taboo no matter your sexuality,” says The Standard.
On September 20, you can sign up for the “Secrets to Sensational Intimacy” workshop. This has been designed to enhance erotic intelligence and sexual self-awareness. Led by well-known sex and intimacy coach Ally Jewel, this session explores the art of arousal, the mastery of touch skills, and effective communication. The session costs $75 and includes access to the spa’s indoor baths.
If you’d like to visit The Standard as a couple and deepen your relationship, there’s a personalized session, “Sextology: Couple’s Compatibility Astrology,” which explores each partner’s energetic signature and how they interact to create a harmonious or challenging relationship. This event is by appointment only and is available throughout the month.
Check out the event’s page for a full calendar of events.
September 3, 2024
The Best Way to Get From NYC to Atlantic City? A Blade Helicopter Straight to a Luxury Casino

I am a diehard fan of The Sopranos, Boardwalk Empire, Bon Jovi, and Bruce Springsteen. Needless to say, when I moved to New York City from Texas a few years ago, I had to visit Atlantic City. Getting there from Brooklyn without a set of wheels was logistically complicated, but when Blade, a short-distance flight company in New York City founded in 2014, started a helicopter route from Hudson Yards directly to Ocean Casino Resort, I knew my time had come.
Originally catering to high-rolling Manhattanites with helicopter transfers to the airport and jet, helicopter, and seaplane routes to the Hamptons, Blade partnered with Ocean Casino Resort in 2024 to expand farther afield. Chopper rides to Atlantic City cost $800 round-trip, but the package also includes a suite for the weekend at the Ocean Casino Resort, the crème de la crème of hotel-casinos in Atlantic City. The flight was a splurge for me, a semi-employed writer, but I figured my winnings at the tables would balance out the books. Yessir, for all the bread I was about to make, well, there ain’t enough yeast in the world, baby.
As with Vegas, Disney, and Times Square, a weekend is just the right amount of time to spend in Atlantic City. I recommend splitting your time between enjoying the revelry, casinos, and restaurants of Ocean Casino Resort and exploring the town — one of the most historic on the Eastern Seaboard.
Flying with Blade
Photo: Johnny Motley
Driving to Atlantic City takes three hours, give or take, from New York City, but the Blade helicopter ride takes only 50 minutes. There’s no real threat of traffic jams in the air. And the surreal aerial views — Manhattan’s skyline, the Jersey Shore, and Atlantic City’s boardwalk all seen from 10,000 feet — are appealing on their own.
Blade choppers to Atlantic City depart from two locations on the island: West 30th St., near Hudson Yards, and East 34th St. in Midtown. Unlike plane travel, Blade’s boarding process is a breeze: no TSA rigamarole, no baggage claim waits, and none of the general unpleasantness of being in an airport. After emailing Blade my weight (important data for the flight), I arrived at the heliport 15 minutes before take-off and drank a complimentary San Pellegrino while gazing across the Hudson River. At noon, a sharp, German-accented command from the pilot — “Get to the chopper!” — broke my reverie. A few minutes later, we were soaring above Gotham’s concrete canyons.
I have acrophobia (fear of heights) and this was my first time in a helicopter, but the ride was pure pleasure. Floating at eye level with the tips of Midtown and the Financial District’s towers, I took better photographs than I could have with my DJI drone.
As we flew south, I chatted through aviation headphones with the pilot and Andrey, a 300-pound ex-Soviet who joined me for the weekend. The pilot explained that the chopper, a Bell 407, retailed for $5 million.
As Jersey’s salt marshes and barrier islands yielded to Atlantic City’s iconic oceanfront, we touched down on the rooftop of Ocean Casino Resort. I grabbed my bag, thanked the pilot, and made a rooftop oblation to Daikokuten, the Japanese god of prosperity and fortune popular with gamblers.
Landing in Atlantic City
Photo: Ocean Casino Resort
In its heyday in the Roaring Twenties, Atlantic City was Nantucket and Miami combined, a glittering seaside Shangri-La graced by Frank Sinatra, Babe Ruth, and New York City’s rich, famous, and beautiful. Fun fact: the streets and buildings of the Monopoly play board are based on Atlantic City. A number of factors led to a long, slow tourism decline and economic headwinds following World War II. The interstate highway system and commercial jets made for easier travel to farther destinations, for one, and urban flight led to less investment in the city.
And then came a possible solution: legalized gambling. The first casino opened in 1978 and a flood of others followed, bolstering the economy and drawing an unprecedented number of visitors. Tourist numbers went from about 700,000 people in 1978 to more than 33 million a decade later.
Atlantic City’s prosperity rose and fell repeatedly over the following decades. It’s safe to say the city’s star is on the rise again, and its magnificent architecture remains as a testament to a Golden Age of yore.

Photo: Johnny Motley
Take a taxi from Ocean Casino Resort to Irish Pub Inn, hands-down one of the best Hibernian public houses in America. The bar has a commendable selection of fine Irish whiskeys, and the bartenders pour Guinness well enough to pass muster in Dublin.
The Boardwalk, a raised wooden walkway tracing the coast, is emblematic of Atlantic City, and a lazy stroll past the arcades, casinos, and buskers is a delightful way to imbibe the vintage Americana charm of “America’s Playground.”
White House Subs serves cold-cut-laden, oblong sandwiches approaching the Platonic ideal of a Jersey hoagie. The magic is in the bread, which arrives fresh daily from a local Italian bakery. Noshing on a sub — sorry, a hoagie — on a beach bench is by itself worth the trip to South Jersey.
Fear & Loathing at Ocean Casino ResortAt some point during the weekend, I gave Andrey half of my cash as a safeguard against my worst impulses. My instructions were clear: “Don’t give this back to me, under any circumstances, until we’re back in New York.” But now it was 3 AM on Saturday, our last night, and I was down big. Lower than a snail’s belly button.
I left the blackjack table and found Andrey at the dollar slots. “Andrey, give me back my money. Right now.” He swung around in his chair, his eyes bulging with rage. “You miserable rat!” he snarled in his heavy accent. “You bought Cristal Champagne bottle for women at bar with company expense account! Your money was not enough for even half of cost!” I had, in fact, operated under the assumption that said expense account would absorb such incidentals. By now his shouts — sonic booms of Russian curses flecked with airborne spittle — were drawing attention from security. I skulked away in despair.
Panic rippled through my nervous system as my mind raced. How did fortune take such a cruel turn? Did I need to call my bank, my mom, or my priest first thing tomorrow? Would plasma centers still be open at this hour? I tried to calm myself down by thinking of the highlights of the weekend, which, prior to financial ruin, had gone swimmingly.

Photo: Johnny Motley
There was the luxury poolside cabana we booked after checking into our suites at Ocean Casino Resort. In our air-conditioned canopy, we drained Seed Beer IPAs and ate shrimp cocktails while soaking up views of the ocean and the Atlantic City Ferris Wheel. There was an epic dinner at Ocean Steak, a feast that would have made Frank Sinatra giddy: charred porterhouses, a platter of oysters, and a bottle of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Then, a concert by America, an underrated classic rock band, at Ovation Hall.
But, alas, after all the carefree fun came that doomed decision to storm the casino one last time.
I lit a Pall Mall, and a scene flashed through my mind: the cast of Jersey Shore, regulars at the Ocean Casino Resort, drinking at 1927 Lounge, a cocktail bar on the property. A wild idea began to take shape and I knew exactly what to do. I would find Snooki.
Like a fever dream, I started to play out an alternate future. Snooki would bring me luck at the blackjack table. I would earn enough to live in the Presidential Suite at the Ocean Casino Resort, and catch rock shows from the likes of Lynyrd Skynyrd and Shinedown at Ovation Hall. Boardwalk strolls at sunset, no second guessing expensive drinks at 1927 Lounge. I’d play blackjack, but never for serious money, and I’d toss winnings to dealers who nicknamed me Cowboy.
Every two weeks in the summer months, I would take Blade back to New York City to check my mailbox and water my plants.
It wasn’t meant to be. Blade’s summer helicopter schedule between NYC and Atlantic City, however, is a blessed reality for a city getaway unlike any other.
The National Park Service Just Got $100 Million to Combat Overtourism. But Is It Enough?

Some tourist attractions in the United States can be pretty expensive — looking at you, Disney World. But if you’ve ever visited a national park, you probably realized that they’re pretty affordable. Some parks are always free, while others charge about $20-35 for week-long pass. An annual pass for admission to every site managed by the National Park Service (NPS) is only $90 per year (or free, if there’s a veteran or fourth-grader in the family).
That’s because national parks in the United States are primarily funded through federal government appropriations. Each year, Congress allocates funds to the NPS as part of the federal budget process. In 2023, the NPS received approximately $3.3 billion in federal appropriations, which covered operational costs, staffing, conservation efforts, and maintenance. National parks also get revenue from visitor fees and concessions, but they actually generate more revenue for the government than they get back, according to the former NPS director.

National park gift shops are only a very small source of park operating fees. Photo: NPS/Public domain
So when the park service gets a significant grant from a private organization, like the recent donation from the Lilly Endowment, Inc., it’s a big deal. And it’s an especially big deal when that grant is for $100 million — the largest grant in the history of the US National Park Service.
The news came on August 26, with the note that funds would be spread throughout the more than 400 sites managed by the park service. An announcement from the National Parks Foundation (the official fundraising partner of the NPS) announced soonafter that the grant will used in four key priority areas. And three of the four relate to saving the parks from overtourism. The $100 million park grant will go inspiring park stewards of the future, protecting threatened wildlife and ecosystems, improving the visitor experience, and telling a more complete story of America.

In many ways, visitor behavior has improved at parks in recent times, as seen in this photo from Yosemite, likely circa 1940. The problem now is that there are just so many more guests in national parks today. Photo: NPS/Yosemite National Park Archives
Tourism to national parks has been through the roof in recent years, with parks like Yellowstone, Yosemite, and Great Smoky Mountains on track for one of their highest-attendance years ever. While few people will find fault with encouraging Americans to spend more time outdoors, it’s become clear that many visitors don’t know how to safely and sustainably recreate outside. As a result, parks across the US have seen increases in intentionally and unintentionally stupid and damaging behavior, from visitors scaring wildlife in Wyoming to trespassing on closed trails in Maine to chopping down endangered Joshua trees in California.
All the messaging in the world on how to Leave No Trace, practicing low-impact hiking, and even how to poop outdoors can’t stop damage from overvisitation, it seems. And while it’s nice that the grant funds will mirror the mission of the National Park Service (“The National Park Service preserves unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the National Park System for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations,”) anyone who enjoys national parks can and should take a few simple steps to help that $100 million go as far as possible.

Bear bins are for all guests (yes, including you). Knowing how and when to use them can help keep bears alive and wild. Photo: NPS/Public Domain
Part of the grant will be used to “inspire the next generation of park stewards.” It’s important that all children and first-time visitors to national parks learn to love and respect them. But for people who have access to green spaces and parks near their homes, teaching children to respect and love the natural environment before setting foot in a national park can be a great way to make sure they know the basics of Leave No Trace recreation from a young age. That would allow the park service to spend this part of the money on efforts to teach proactive protection — for example, how to leave parks better than you found them — rather than spending money to correct basic behavior people should know from a young age, like not littering.
Without a doubt, the funds spent to “conserve and preserve threatened parks and wildlife” are essential. However, human activity is part of the reason some ecosystems are at risk, from activities like disturbing birds’ nesting sites, walking on fragile protected areas, and introducing microplastics, chemicals, and CO2 into park environments (not to mention the effects of climate change that aren’t localized to a single park). The funds from the $100 million park grant to help wildlife will stretch as far as possible if we as visitors begin to do a better job of respecting wildlife and giving them space to thrive. Fortunately, all it takes is 10 minutes of learning and research to know what to expect at each park before you go. Read the “Plan Your Visit” page available on every national park website, where it highlights the key things guests should know before visiting.

Many species would be extirpated in the US, were it not for their protected habitats in NPS-managed sites. Photo: NPS/Public Domain
Some money will be spent to “ensure a world-class visitor experience.” This could mean expanding park infrastructure to allow for more visitors in a less damaging way. But it’s hard to know if this ultimately be good for the parks. In a perfect world, paving green space to make way for larger parking lots and building multi-lane roads through parks isn’t ideal. But we live in the real world, where impatient tourists will park on hillsides to take photos and spend 30 minutes idling their cars in parking lots to wait for a space.
Additionally, it’s also important to ensure that everyone feels parks are accessible and available to them, as all Americans have an equal ownership over our shared national spaces. So making the visitation process better could be a good thing. Basically, only time will tell if the money spent to “ensure a world-class guest experience” improves parks in the long term, or just allows for the overtourism problem to get even bigger in the future.
Finally, a segment of the $100 million park grant will be used to “tell a more complete story of America,” and is the only allocation not directly related to overtourism. Of course, it is related to the country’s history of forcefully stealing what is now federal land from Indigenous Americans, especially in the American West. I adore our national parks and am so happy they exist, but that doesn’t mean the path to create them was flawless or fair.
It’s unclear what exactly this section of funds will support, but sites in and outside of parks that celebrate the past and current cultures of Indigenous Americans are some of the best offerings in the park system. Highlights include the “Indian Village of the Ahwahnee” in Yosemite National Park, the exhibit on the Native American occupation of Alcatraz Island in Golden Gate National Recreation Area, and touring the Pueblo cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado, among many others.
It would be great to see portions of the $100 million park grant spent on preserving more sites like those, in addition to efforts to involve historic land holders in park management and decision-making, or working to create ways to help Indigenous Americans or people of Native American descent feel more ownership and benefit of park sites. Indigenous-owned nature tours, anyone?

The occupation of Alcatraz Island by the group Indians of All Tribes lasted for nineteen months, from November 20, 1969, to June 11, 1971, and was forcibly ended by the government. Photo: NPS/Stephen Shames/Polaris/Public Domain
National parks are often referred to “America’s best idea,” and Americans are extremely fortunately not just to have so many protected outdoor spaces, but to live in a country where people generally want to protect and preserve them (at least in some capacity). Data so far for 2024 shows that visiting national park sites will continue to be popular. But with just a little extra effort and responsibility, all of us visiting those parks can do a great deal to make the $100 million park grant — and all future funding for national parks — be as beneficial and effective as possible.
Discovering Relaxation and Unlimited Scuba Diving at Sandals Dunn’s River

I admit it – I was skeptical about staying at another all-inclusive resort. The ones I had previously been to were from a different era, catering to older generations who seemed okay with the meh food, watered-down drinks, and somewhat apathetic customer service. While I like the idea of all-inclusive resorts, sometimes, the execution can leave something to be desired. Still, I relented on a recent trip, if only because my recently scuba-certified boyfriend and I couldn’t decide where to go to log some dives – when we learned that unlimited dives are included with stays at Sandals Resorts, and a new one opened in May, 2023 in Ocho Rios, Jamaica.
Why we visited Sandals Dunn’s River in Jamaica
In love . . . with diving. Photo: Melissa McGibbon
The land of Bob Marley was one of the places on our wishlist, and staying at new hotels is always exciting, so we booked our stay at Sandals Dunn’s River. The resort is a relatively short flight for most Americans. If you live on the West Coast, you can leave your home in the morning and be sipping cocktails in paradise by dinnertime; if you live on the East Coast, you can be there by lunchtime. The new OCJ Airport is a 30-minute drive from the resort. When we drove through the gates at Dunn’s River, we were immediately impressed by the sense of arrival. The palm trees were lit up, the paths well-manicured, and the air warm and salty. We were greeted in the Lapidus Lounge with Jamaican rum cocktails and introduced to our butler, who delivered us to our swim-up suite. Everything was crisp and clean. Chilled champagne and a large soaking tub filled with steamy water and fresh flower petals ready for us made for an impressive welcome.
Admittedly, it was in part due to the coffee
Photo courtesy Sandals
The next morning (and each morning we were there), my partner and I took the 5-minute walk from our suite to Blum Cafe to get properly caffeinated with the freshly brewed Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee, harvested and roasted exclusively for the resort. The coffee shop is a new upgrade for Sandals Resorts and features menu options like pour-overs and cold brews. The shop also has an assortment of sweet snacks and occasionally hosts chocolate tastings. After coffee, we went to the on-site dive shop to see about diving, but unfortunately, there was a red flag, which meant the wind was too strong for diving excursions that day. Plenty of other things were on our agenda, including a much-needed post-travel-day gym session. The fitness center is spacious, has all the latest equipment, and large floor-to-ceiling windows with dazzling views of the Caribbean.
Catching the vacation vibes
Photo courtesy Sandals
When we were done at the gym, we took a tour of the property—a perimeter check, if you will. We noticed the thoughtful touches, like water features that prevent too much noise from carrying and plenty of nooks and crannies for lounging privately or with groups. There are nine bars, including a swim-up bar and a stocked bar in every room, so you’re never more than a few feet away from grabbing a drink. The entire resort is designed for relaxation, and boy, did we do some hard-core relaxing. After a quick tour of the Red Lane Spa, we booked a couples massage and spent the afternoon maximizing our zen in the canopy cuddler lounge chairs by the spa pool.
Progressive meals, resort styleOne of the really lovely advantages of staying at an all-inclusive resort is that you can do fun things like progressive dinners since all the restaurants are steps away. There are 12 restaurants at Sandals Dunn’s River, and we were only staying for five nights, so we had to be strategic about trying all of them. The first night, we started with appetizers at the Cascata Italian Cucina, visited Zuka’s for some Latin Fusion entrees, and ended at the Dunn’s Rum Club for after-dinner drinks. At some all-inclusive resorts, the quality of food and service suffers due to the nature of the business model, but at this resort, the food was very good, so good that I’m still daydreaming about the hot and sour Thai soup we had at Banyu. The only drawback is how easy it is to overindulge, but we had no regrets, and it’s safe to say we got our money’s worth.
Unlimited scuba diving – the main reason we cameWe were delighted to see a hoisted green flag on the beach on the third and fourth days, which meant we were a go for diving. The on-site PADI dive shop set us up with the necessary equipment, and we were on the dive boat with our instructors and fellow divers headed out to sea by mid-morning. One of the highlights was visiting the SS Kathryn Wreck, one of Jamaica’s most popular dive sites. The 140-foot 1950s steel minesweeper ship was purposely sunk by a dive operator in 1991 and rests about 50 feet below the surface. This is an exciting dive site for novices and veterans alike because it offers a unique opportunity to access the ship’s interior without requiring advanced skills, and there are opportunities to see stingrays, lobsters, eels, and nurse sharks. The neighboring coral mazes and caverns offer swim-throughs and swirling reef formations. We didn’t have any luck spotting seahorses, but we saw many tropical fish, including parrot fish, puffers, moray eels, butterfly fish, trumpetfish, groupers, snappers, and colorful sponges.
Relaxing (and reggae, of course)
Photo courtesy Melissa McGibbon
After our dives and daily visits to the Jamaican Jerk Shack, we made time to lounge at the pool and hot tubs. I say “made time” because we had to be intentional about it. There are so many exciting things to keep you entertained that you have to make a point of really relaxing. We discovered Dirty Banana cocktails at the swim-up bar, and I’m a bit upset I’ve gone my whole life without knowing about them. They are made with Jamaican rum, Kahlua, bananas, and chocolate syrup and are very quaffable. Basking in the sunshine, drinking Dirty Bananas, and listening to Bob Marley croon over the speakers felt peak vacation.
In addition to unlimited diving and golfing, Dunn’s River Resort offers nearly 40 featured tours. We didn’t want to miss , the hotel’s namesake, so we booked a half-day tour there on our last full day. It’s just two and a half miles from the resort and is one of Jamaica’s coolest attractions. Dunn’s River Falls is a 600-foot waterfall with several small dome-shaped falls that eventually flows into the Caribbean Sea. Visitors on group tours join hands and ascend the series of natural pools to the top, where a massive waterfall cascades down into the top lagoon.
After visiting Dunn’s River Falls, we went for another gym session and then to the spa pool and hot tub again. Who goes to the gym on vacation? We do. It’s an exceptionally nice gym, and we had some all-inclusive calories to burn off. In the evening, we visited the restaurants and lounges we hadn’t made it to yet and then took advantage of the guided stargazing at the Coyaba Sky Rondoval Villas. Before we departed the following day, we managed to squeeze in some time at the beach and say goodbye to the friendly staff who took such good care of us during the week.
Our trip to Sandal’s Dunn’s River changed our minds about all-inclusive stays. Because gratuities are included with stays, we didn’t have to worry about pulling out our wallets for every meal or activity. It’s remarkable how liberating it was to park our pocketbooks while traveling. The effortlessness of this trip is now the bar for future trips, and we plan to return as soon as possible.
Removing Dams From the Klamath River Is the Latest Win for Salmon – and Momentum Is Growing

The Klamath River traverses 257 miles from Klamath Lake in Oregon to its mouth in California’s Redwood Coast. The salmon habitat the river supports, however, crosses more than 420 miles through the Klamath’s tributaries, historically one of the most significant salmon runs in the western United States and a primary source of food for the Yurok people for centuries. Throughout the first half of the 20th century, and culminating in the 1960s, a series of hydropower dams were erected along the river, cutting off the salmon runs and devastating the traditions and livelihood of the Indigenous peoples who had depended on the salmon for so long. Now, in a striking reversal of the trend from a century ago, the dams on the Klamath are gone – and for the first time in 100 years, the salmon can retreat to the breeding grounds that have given life to the Pacific Northwest since before humankind first entered the region some 10,000 years ago.
What’s more, the Klamath is hardly alone. Similar efforts are underway from the Snake River in Idaho to the Penobscot River in Maine, with one striking factor in common: Though dam removal efforts are complex, they’ve proven in many cases to be less controversial than the erection of the dams in the first place. Rather, few conservation-related efforts have proven more effective at uniting Indigenous peoples with politicians, business leaders, and outdoor recreationists across the political aisle and the broad spectrum of activities taking place on the water. Travelers have an important role in dam removal efforts, too – and it all comes down to where the money’s coming from. Nearly all major dammed rivers in the United States host commercial rafting and fishing outfitters, with both permitted and unpermitted stretches of water open to use for private parties as well. By supporting the outfitters running the rivers, obtaining a rafting or camping permit, or buying a fishing license, those visiting the river are casting their support for the long-term health of the ecosystem they’re visiting.
This goes to show that there’s never been a better time to plan a river trip – but before heading out, it’s important to have a general understanding of what’s happening and why it’s so important.
Why is this dam removal happening, and why is it important?
Photo courtesy Klamath River Renewal Project
The decision to remove a dam on a major river like the Klamath is often multifaceted, involving careful consideration of environmental, economic, and cultural factors. Not least is that these dams generate hydroelectric power, which is then sent into the grid and used to power homes, businesses, and the economy at large. Removing a dam means removing its power generation output, which then must be offset somewhere else (the federal government just announced an increase in acreage available for solar projects on public lands, as one potential solution).
Environmental concerns, such as habitat destruction and fish migration disruption, often drive dam removal efforts. Restoring fish populations – primarily salmon, in the case of the Klamath – can benefit commercial and recreational fishing industries, while improving water quality can positively impact agriculture and tourism. Cultural considerations, particularly for Native American tribes, play a significant role as dam removal can restore ancestral lands and protect cultural heritage.
“I think in September, we may have some Chinook salmon and steelhead moseying upstream and checking things out for the first time in over 60 years,” Bob Pagliuco, NOAA marine habitat resource specialist, said in an article released by NOAA. “Based on what I’ve seen and what I know these fish can do, I think they will start occupying these habitats immediately. There won’t be any great numbers at first, but within several generations—10 to 15 years—new populations will be established.”
The removal of the dams on the Klamath River is the culmination of years – decades, even – of effort on the part of Native tribes, environmental activists, fishermen, and politicians. There has been a growing public awareness of the negative impacts of dams and a shift towards more sustainable and environmentally friendly practices in recent decades, thanks largely to efforts from Indigenous communities and non-profit advocacy groups. The removal of the Klamath River dams is a significant milestone in this movement, as it is one of the largest dam removal projects in US history. It is expected to serve as a model for other river restoration efforts across the country.
What rivers can I visit to support these conservation efforts?
Photo: CSNafzger /Shutterstock
Traveling for a river trip to make a positive impact is one of the most effective ways the general public can support these efforts while learning about the surrounding ecosystem – and having a heck of time while doing it. A few rivers (and outfitters that run them) are:
Snake and Salmon Rivers: Located in the Pacific Northwest, the Snake and Salmon Rivers, particularly the Snake, have been a focal point for dam removal discussion. OARS operates many trips annually on each (be sure to include the stunningly beautiful Hell’s Canyon in any trip you take).
Penobscot River: This river in Maine has seen a series of dam removals in recent years, aimed at improving fish passage and restoring the river’s ecosystem. The Penobscot River Restoration Trust has been instrumental in these efforts. Northern Outdoors runs frequent trips down the river.
Elwha River: In Washington state, the Elwha River has experienced one of the largest dam removal projects in US history. Both the Elwha Dam and the Glines Canyon Dam were removed, resulting in significant improvements to the river’s health and the return of salmon populations. Check with Olympic Peninsula, the local destination marketing organization, for outfitters running the river before you visit.
American River: This river in California has been the subject of dam removal proposals, particularly in the context of restoring salmon habitat and improving water quality. However, these efforts have faced challenges due to the complex issues surrounding water rights and hydroelectric power generation. OARS runs the American, as do several local rafting outfitters.
Traveling with outfitters like OARS, which contributes proceeds to conservation efforts on the rivers it runs, is essential. If traveling with a group of friends on a private expedition, be sure to research any permits you’ll need to float or camp in the area. If you can’t visit in person, several non-profit groups also support river restoration across the United States, including American Rivers and the Western Rivers Conservancy.
A California Bear Was Killed Due to Irresponsible Camper Behavior, and Locals Want Justice

Irresponsible tourist behavior is nothing new when it comes to wildlife, but a recent controversy has particularly touched a nerve. The August 22 killing of an adult male bear known as Victor in Northern California has many wildlife and environmentalists saying enough is enough when it comes to giving visitors a pass — especially when bears pay the price.
In late August, the Mammoth Lake Police Department announced that the California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) trapped and euthanized Victor the bear. The killing followed an incident on August 21, during which Victor swiped at a camper near the town’s popular Lake Mary, causing deep cuts to her leg. Victor was a frequent visitor to the campground, where he often scavenger for food left behind by campers. On a previous encounter earlier in the month, Victor swiped at a different camper attempting to take a bear selfie, causing minor injuries. But after the August 21 incident, CDFW determined that the bear “had become habituated to human sources of food,” and was “deemed a threat to public safety and was euthanized.”
But it’s not quite so clean cut, and now, many locals and Californians are saying that Victor the bear did nothing wrong — and that the camper should face legal action.
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Following the incident, Mammoth Lakes resident and former wildlife officer Steve Searles posted two items on Facebook: a heartbreaking photo showing the bear’s body next to its unmarked grave near a local dump (warning: the photo is graphic), and a video that appear to show the woman not taking proper action to protect herself. Searles, known as the “bear whisperer,” also shared that he had interviewed other parties in the campground, who reported the woman and her friends had been intentionally leaving food out every night to bait Victor into visiting their campsite to film him. If that was true, it would be a violation of at least four regulations regarding black bears, including “practicing safe food storage,” “keeping a clean camp,” “securing all trash,” and “no bear selfies.”
In the video posted by Searles and shared widely on social media, it appears that the woman did not react properly when she allowed Victor to get close, failing to make noise, stand with the rest of her group, or slowly back away. Additionally, she should not have allowed Victor — who was slowly walking through camp, not running — to get within 100 yards of her to begin with. In the video, it appears as if the woman is just watching Victor as he approaches, holding her cell phone to her chest as her friends filming nearby laugh and joke. The release of the video caused outrage among Victor’s beloved fans, as the CDFW announced that the woman had “attempted to escape the bear by standing on a stump.” She was also standing between Victor and the “bear box” — a metal storage container used for storing food that would have been known to Victor (and all other wildlife) to contain human food.

Black bears like Victor the bear, such as the one shown here, are common in the Sierra Nevada. Photo: Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock
The CDFW did not say the incident was Victor the bear’s fault, and included in the announcement was a note on how to properly act in bear country. Fines and citations for violating rules designed to protect bears in California vary depending on the land managers; California State Parks can fine visitors up to $1,000, while Yosemite National Park can slap violators with a $5,000 fine.
But no fines have been issued and locals are outraged, with nearly 40,000 signatures on a “Justice for Victor” petition started one week ago. Advocates for Victor and other bears of the Sierra Nevada say they want his death to lead to action, calling for both new policies on bear management and penalties for the campers who baited Victor and violated proper “Bear Aware” behavior. As of early September, the names of the woman and her fellow campers have not been released, though she has been identified as a 61-year-old woman from Los Angeles.
While Victor’s death remains heartbreaking for many, members of the local Bishop Paiute Tribe took action to give Victor the respect many say he still deserves. The tribe contacted CDFW to get permission to rebury Victor, removing him form the grave dug by CDFW and reburying him in a traditional ceremony on tribal land. The ceremony reportedly included songs and blessings to give Victor a traditional and respectful farewell.
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