Matador Network's Blog, page 116
September 10, 2024
Sea Turtle Fans: Run, Don’t Walk, to This Resort Near West Palm Beach, FL
A yellow ribbon fluttered in the breeze, staking off a small section of beach preventing a loggerhead sea turtle nest from being disturbed. Nearby, on the wide stretch of beach that fronted The Singer Oceanfront Resort, children splashed in the waves while their parents relaxed under beach umbrellas and sipped cold drinks from coconuts delivered by attendants.
Photo: Lori Barbely
Florida’s Palm Beach Area conjures up images of high end shopping on West Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue and events like golf, croquet, and polo where those with deep pockets rub elbows, but I was here for one thing: sea turtles. With a beachfront that nesting turtles call home and a restaurant named after the loggerhead (Caretta Caretta), I knew I was in the right place at The Singer Oceanfront Resort. I had a weekend full of turtle-related activities planned, but the first order of business was getting my hands on one of those coconuts.
The Singer Oceanfront Resort is one of the smaller hotels on the four-mile stretch of beach it calls home, but even from the outside, it’s full of character. The entire resort underwent a renovation in 2024, and it shows, down to the smallest detail.
The rooms at The Singer Oceanfront Resort
Photo: Lori Barbely
The first thing I noticed about my newly redone King oceanfront room was the floor-to-ceiling windows that let the natural light pour in. The second thing I noticed was the wraparound balcony and, of course, the view.
Once I dragged myself away from the view and looked at the room itself, I realized that the breezy coastal decor in warm whites and blues was the perfect compliment to the ocean view. The understated elegance let the view be the hero while providing a comfortable indoor living space.
Speaking of space, as a solo traveler, it was far more space that I needed, but I found that the corner chaise was the perfect spot to cozy up and read my book during one of Florida’s predictable summer afternoon rainstorms.
The mini fridge and coffee maker came in handy for enjoying sunrise coffee on my balcony without having to parade down to the lobby in my pajamas to buy a cup from The Market. To help me stay hydrated, which is no easy feat in the Florida summer, there were two PATH refillable water bottles in my room and water bottle fillers on every floor next to the ice machines.
When it came to getting ready for the day, the bathroom was a dream with ample counter space and a huge well-lit mirror. One of my favorite touches was the under-sink motion sensor light that was perfect for late-night toilet trips without having to turn on the overhead light.
While I was solo on this trip, I’m already working on convincing friends that a girlfriend getaway in the family suite that sleeps 10 is a must.
The amenities at The Singer Oceanfront Resort
Photo: Lori Barbely
For a high-maintenance beachgoer like me, the fact that my room included use of two beach chairs, a beach umbrella, a table, and towels was immensely appealing. The hotel’s beach is wide, and not having to drag my beach gear all the way to the water gets high marks. Beach service meant I could indulge my inner princess and have food and drinks delivered straight to my beach chair without having to make the trek back across the beach.
While The Singer’s wide stretch of beach is its obvious appeal, there’s also a heated outdoor pool, complete with a hot tub and four cabanas that are currently available on a first come, first served basis. The hotel is in the process of updating these, with plans to add TVs and make them available on a rental basis. If you need more to do than lounge about and enjoy the sun, and the 24-hour fitness center isn’t your thing, rooms at The Singer include one hour of non-motorized water sports (boogie boards, kayaks, or SUPs) and one hour of bicycle rentals per day.
The dining at The Singer Oceanfront Resort and nearby
Photo: Lori Barbely
The perfect end to a beach day at The Singer is drinks at Top Shell, the hotel’s beach bar and restaurant. Try the hotel’s namesake cocktail with coconut, vodka, and rum served in a whole coconut (a portion of the proceeds are donated to the Loggerhead Marinelife Center) followed by dinner at Caretta Caretta.
Whether you prefer indoor or beachside dining, Caretta Caretta’s coastal-inspired dishes are a celebration of fresh seafood and local ingredients. Menu items range from a trendy shareable seafood board — an ocean-inspired take on a charcuterie board with smoked mahi dip, charred octopus, and shrimp cocktail — to a warm and comforting wild mushroom and truffle pappardelle. Cocktails named for some of Florida’s famous residents, the loggerhead and the hawksbill, make for the perfect pairing.
Photo: Lori Barbely
Full breakfast is also available at Caretta Caretta, or you can head to The Market, located in the lobby, for coffee, pastries, and grab-and-go snacks. You’ll find your snack classics like Snickers and Lays, but you’ll also find unique snack offerings like Fever Tree Ginger Beer, Uglies Kettle Chips, and LesserEvil Organic Popcorn. You can even purchase a whole coconut (they’ll open it for you) to hydrate with refreshing coconut water.
Located in nearby Jupiter, with views of the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse, BEACON is a chic date-night restaurant with a seafood-heavy menu, including dishes like seared scallops and Atlantic salmon. The cocktails are as sophisticated as their names are playful — try the Summer Fling (vodka, watermelon, cucumber, lime, mint) or the In the Heat of Passion (tequila, serrano pepper, passion fruit, tajin).
Photo: Lori Barbely
Once a sandwich shop for surfers, Guanabanas has morphed into a laid-back open-air restaurant with a lush tropical setting. Dine under towering banyan trees or thatched tiki huts overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway while live music plays on the weekends. Julian Marley, The Fray, Rob Thomas of Matchbox 20, and Natasha Beddingfield are just some of the acts who have performed at Guanabanas.
Rum Punch is my drink of choice, and the Guanabanas’ Cat 5 (Flor de Cana dark rum, DonQ Passion Fruit rum, 151, and tropical fruit juices) packs a strong (and delicious) punch. Plates like the Florida Gulf steamers, blackened fresh catch, and my choice, the spicy Florida shrimp wrap all showcase Guanabanas’ commitment to using local produce and Florida-caught fish and seafood.
Things to do while staying at The Singer Oceanfront ResortLoggerhead Marinelife Center
Photo: Lori Barbely
At just four miles in size, Singer is a small island, but there’s plenty to do in the vicinity. If exploring the area is your goal, you’ll want a rental car as most activities are a 15-30 minute drive from the hotel. I started my morning with a visit to the Loggerhead Marinelife Center in nearby Juno Beach. The recently expanded center has spent more than 40 years focusing on four pillar areas in relation to sea turtles: education, conservation, rehabilitation, and research.
I consider myself a pretty big sea turtle fan, something the tattoo on my foot confirms, and I learned so much during my morning at the center. In 2023, the Loggerhead Marinelife Center monitored over 25,000 nests on the nine and a half miles of beach it oversees and removed over 5,000 pounds of marine debris, while the hospital team treated over 2,500 turtles (213 juveniles to adults and over 2,300 hatchlings).
All of the sea turtle patients at the donation-based facility are being actively treated with the goal of being released back into the ocean. I missed the public release of Willow, one of the center’s rehabilitated loggerheads, by a few days. Injured and anemic Willow was treated with antibiotics, iron, and fluids and has since been released back into the ocean from the nearby beach.
Loggerhead Marinelife Center: 14200 US Highway 1, Juno Beach, FL 33408
Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse
Photo: Lori Barbely
First lit in 1860, the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse is on the National Register of Historic Places and is still a functional navigational aid. Climb the 105 steps to the top for sweeping panoramic views of the confluence of the Jupiter Inlet and the Indian River. Guides are available at the top to tell you the history of the lighthouse and its historic Fresnel lens (one of only 13 active First-Order Fresnel lenses in the US). This lens is the magic behind the lighthouse, intensifying the light and focusing it into the beam used by mariners for navigation.
Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse: 500 Captain Armours Wy, Jupiter, FL 33469
Peanut Island
Photo: Lori Barbely
Peanut Island is a human-made island located off the coast of Singer Island in the Lake Worth Inlet. Once the site of a planned peanut oil-shipping operation, this small island, which can be circumnavigated on foot in about 20 minutes, is a popular boating spot, complete with a human-made reef for snorkeling. There’s also a not-so-secret secret bomb shelter from the Kennedy era that’s being restored and will soon be reopened for public tours.
The Peanut Island Shuttle Boat makes multiple trips daily, or you can book a guided kayak trip to the island with Visit Palm Beach, like I did. It was an easy 30-minute kayak to the island, and once there, we had about an hour to snorkel and explore the island before the return kayak.
Mounts Botanical Garden
Photo: Lori Barbely
Located in nearby West Palm Beach, Mounts Botanical Garden is a 20-acre garden with over 7,000 species of plants. Within the garden, there are various areas to explore, like the Butterfly Garden, the Edible Garden, the Rose and Fragrance Garden, the Asian-influenced Garden of Tranquility, the Florida Native Plant Garden, and the Tropical Forest Garden featuring replica Moai statues, modeled on the monolithic sculptures from Easter Island. The botanical garden is right near Palm Beach Airport, so if you’re flying into the area, it could be a good first or last stop on your trip.
Mounts Botanical Garden: 531 N Military Trl, West Palm Beach, FL 33415
How to get to The Singer Oceanfront Resort
Photo: Lori Barbely
The Singer Oceanfront Resort is located on the south end of Singer Island, Florida, on a four-mile stretch of beach. The resort is a 20-minute drive from Palm Beach International Airport (PBI). If you’re driving, The Singer is easily accessible and just five miles off I-95. If you prefer to travel by train, the Brightline station is located just six miles from The Singer. 
This US Budget Airline Lets You Fly With One Case of Wine for Free
At a time when most airlines, budget or otherwise, are determined to make you pay through the nose for any piece of luggage you want to bring with you on a flight, Avelo Airlines, is going against the grain. Since May 25, 2024, Avelo, a US-based budget airline, lets adult passengers departing from Sonoma County Airport (STS) fly with one case of wine for free. As of September 16, 2024, however, the airline will be expanding its Wine Travel Free program to and from all its routes in the Western US.
Somona being in the heart of California Wine Country, the airline’s move was a smart one. Anyone visiting the Somona Valley and its wineries would be thrilled to be able to bring back some liquid souvenirs at no extra charge.
But with the expansion of the program, Avelo Airlines is now allowing all adults flying to and from any of its 14 destinations in the Western US to travel with one case of wine for free. The destinations include:
Bay Area / Sonoma, CABend / Redmond, ORBoise, IDEugene, OREureka / Arcata, CAKalispell, MTLas Vegas, NVLos Angeles / Burbank, CAMedford / Rogue Valley, OROntario, CAPalm Springs, CAPasco Tri-Cities, WAPortland / Salem, ORSalt Lake City, UTMany of the destinations serviced by Avelo in the Western US have a wine focus, including Boise, Idaho, and its thriving wine scene; Eugene, Oregon, located south of the Willamette Valley and its 600-plus wineries; and Pasco Ti-Cities, just east of the Walla Walla Valley and its 120 wineries and 2,800 acres of vineyards.
As the holidays approach, Avelo Wine Travel Free program is an opportunity for travelers to bring wine to the Thanksgiving, Christmas, or New Year table, without having to worry about the extravagant fees that would normally incur. And, of course, local wine makes for a great gift, for the holidays or any other occasions.
Avelo Airlines’ Wine Travel Free program is only available to travelers over the age of 21 and is limited to one case of 12 bottles of wine per person. The case must not exceed 50 lbs and the bottles must be packaged carefully according to the instructions featured on the airline’s website. Avelo does not takes responsibility for any damage that might occur to your wine so make sure you don’t cheap out on the bubble wrap. You can also consult Matador Network‘s guide to prevent bottles from breaking during your travels to be extra safe.
Note that the free checked case of wine cannot be added to your booking online, you must visit the ticket counter at the airport. If you have already paid the checked luggage fee to bring a case of wine with you, you can get a credit from the airline.
Check Out the Coolest Kissimmee Vacation Rentals for Disney Fans
With four theme parks and two water parks to explore, any fan knows it takes more than a day to experience Walt Disney World Resort. Thirteen miles from the “Most Magical Place on Earth”, Kissimmee is the best place to stay for a Disney marathon. Florida’s lakeside city has its own airport and Amtrak station and offers a wealth of restaurants, entertainment, and amenities to streamline a stay.
Renting a Vrbo brings everyone together and makes for a convenient base near Disneyland. Featuring private pools, movie theaters, and all the bare necessities, these are the coolest Kissimmee vacation rentals for Disney fans of all ages.
Gorgeous Kissimmee villa with a pool, bar, and theater
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: Minutes from the iconic Walt Disney World Resort, balances modern elegance with wholesome fun. No need to look for Yoda in a galaxy far, far away – the games room and adult-sized bunk room recreate Disney’s Galaxy’s Edge. Sing along to your favorite Disney movies in the cinema and enjoy homemade margaritas poolside upon return from the park. Vrbo guests can also use the resort pool and club amenities.
Fifteen guests, six bedrooms
Price: $427 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: has all the magical ingredients for a Disney vacation. Make a beeline for the game room to ride the slide, sharpen your break on the pool table, and try out the latest PlayStation 5 games. There’s a private pool and hot tub in the backyard plus you’ll have use of the resort facilities. Communal spaces are smartly appointed with a jungle theme while the Avatar Suite with glow-in-the-dark walls is worth fighting over.
Fourteen guests, six bedrooms
Price: $360 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: Gather your closest Disney fans for a stay at the coolest supersized Kissimmee Vrbo rental for groups. Glamorous bedrooms with upholstered beds are fit for royalty whereas the littlest guests will bed down in D. Tricked out with leather recliners and a red carpet, the home movie theater is next-level. The private pool, hot tub, and lanai complete the all-star experience in Florida’s entertainment hub.
Thirty-three guests, 11 bedrooms
Price: $519 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: A 10-minute commute from Disney World, for couples guarantees a happy ever after in the Sunshine State. It has one large bedroom, a sizable lounge, and a private screened-in balcony. The resort has two large pools – one is a lagoon design – and an assortment of tennis, basketball, and volleyball courts. Walk to local restaurants or choose from five convenient supermarkets if you’d rather have a night in.
Four guests, one bedroom
Price: $115 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: There’s only one way to beat the post-Disney blues and that’s by coming home to this next-level vacation rental in Kissimmee with glowing reviews. Go for the lucky strike on the ten-pin bowling arcade and sing your heart out with Baloo and Sebastian in the karaoke room. – waking up in the Jaws Suite isn’t for the faint of heart – whereas the lounge features curved velvet banquettes where any A-lister would like to be seen.
Thirty guests, 14 bedrooms
Price: $830 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: has a private pool and hot tub overlooking the community lake and graceful bedrooms where anyone could sleep for a hundred years. There’s an epic Star Wars room with a Millennium Falcon bed and another with a Jeep Wrangler bunk where adults or children can sleep (with one eye open). Guests have full use of the resort pool, lazy river, mini golf course, and sports’ facilities.
Nineteen guests, eight bedrooms
Price: $337 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: Warm up for Camp Jurassic at this immersive Disney rental with a slightly terrifying dinosaur-themed movie theater and games room. In contrast, are drenched in Floridian sunshine – you can watch movies and cartoons out here, too. Bedrooms are themed as per the Avengers, Harry Potter, Frozen, and Batman which makes it the best house for mixed-age kids. The pool has a safety fence and the host provides baby gear.
Sixteen guests, eight bedrooms
Price: $314 per night
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: VrboSee more photosFollow your dreams to the perfect base for Disney-loving duos or small families. This two-bedroom Vrbo comprises a homely open-plan living space with a stainless steel kitchen for prepping theme park fodder. Tributes to Lightning McQueen, Woody, and friends hang on the walls of the unit. The amusements are 20 minutes away and you can look forward to a dip in the resort pool after an unforgettable day out.
Six guests, two bedrooms
Price: $123 per night
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: Vrbo
Photo: VrboSee more photosTen minutes from Disney, this highly-rated Vrbo in Kissimmee puts you first in line for when the park opens. The galactic bedroom with its slide and PS5 means bedtime can’t come soon enough for the kids, although persuading them to sleep is a whole other story. The rental has a sun-soaked backyard with a pool and a snug home cinema with bean bags.
Twelve guests, five bedrooms
Price: $423 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: It’s only 10 minutes from the action but brings all the enchantment of Disney to the doorstep. A bright lounge is complemented by a sunny rear patio with a private pool and poolside dining. Shake up a daiquiri at the bar and stream your favorite flicks from the water. Remember to use the Force if you want to slip past those Stormtroopers and shoot some hoops.
Fourteen guests, six bedrooms
Price: $338 per night
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: 
Photo: offers all the functionality of a standard vacation pad plus a couple of quirks to warm you up for Disney. Three of the four bedrooms are twins, making it a great option to “assemble” with old friends or family. The Avengers stand guard over the games room while the pool screen keeps those fierce Floridian rays at bay. The theme park is a 20-minute drive from the Bella Vida Resort.
Ten guests, four bedrooms
Price: $307 per night
I Got a ‘Quantum Physics’ Massage in the Billionaire Capital of America
It’s not New York or California where you’re most likely to run into a billionaire on the street — it’s Wyoming. The state has the highest number of billionaires per capita (as well as a relatively small population), and it’s no secret that the bulk of Wyoming’s wealthy live in Teton County, home to the celebrity-loved (and expensive) tourist town of Jackson.
So when I arrived in Jackson, stepping into the lobby of the just-opened Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa, I expected the hotel’s pricey spa to offer the usual tried-and-true treatments, like sports massages and couple’s romance packages. Instead, I found a menu of treatments more akin to what I’d expect to find at a pop-up hippie music festival, not an old-money mountain town in the tax haven of Wyoming.
That was the theme of the next few days I spent at the Rusty Parrot. It feels like an old-school, old-money-type of place, style-wise. But otherwise, it’s surprisingly modern, with amenities that will appeal to younger and hipper travelers, like a cool on-site cocktail bar, homemade cookies every afternoon, complimentary e-bike rentals, and one of the most creative fine-dining menus in Jackson — not to mention the overwhelmingly unique spa offerings.
All guests can access the hotel’s top-floor wildlife viewing deck. I had it entirely to myself every time I went up. Photo: Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa
Yes, it’s pricey. But for better or worse, so is everything in Jackson. During my stay in mid-August, even the most basic room at the town’s Super 8 Motel was close to $350 per night. Airbnbs in Jackson can be in the five digits per night. Jackson is not the place to go mid-summer if you’re planning a budget vacation. So while the Rusty Parrot’s starting summer rates of about $900 per night are certainly quite expensive for most destinations, it’s just par for the course for a luxury hotel in the summer in Jackson. In fairness, the rates drop quite a bit in November, starting at $400 per night.
Here’s what to know if you’re thinking about booking a stay at what may be Jackson’s most unexpectedly cool hotel.
The hotel is new — but the Rusty Parrot Lodge isn’t
I enjoyed wandering around and exploring the hotel's eclectic art collection. Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Suzie DundasYou wouldn’t know by looking at it, but the Rusty Parrot was completely destroyed by a hotel fire on November 18, 2019. A piece of fabric got too close to the hotel’s outdoor fire pit, and the hotel went up in flames in the middle of the night. The hotel had been open since 1990, but the fire forced a four-year closure. The damage was significant, though fortunately, no guests or staff were injured.
The owners took advantage of the opportunity, rebuilding the Rusty Parrot Lodge to add extra rooms and expand and update the spa while maintaining the hotel’s Western-style details. It reopened in July of 2024, keeping quintessential features like the massive wrap-around wooden staircase and antler chandeliers. The owners also made space for many sculptures and pieces of art salvaged from the flames, part of a collection built over the founder’s many decades of collecting Western-themed American art.
The hotel is in the same location it always was, just a few blocks from downtown Jackson. That makes it easy to walk to bars and restaurants, but far enough away that you won’t hear drunk après-skiers stumbling out of the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar at 1 AM during your vacation.
Photo: Suzie Dundas
Photo: Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa
Photo: Suzie DundasSure, little details may not change the fact that the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa is expensive, but they do make the experience of staying there feel more luxurious. When I checked into my King Fireplace Room, I noticed plenty of unexpected details. There was a complimentary gourmet snack tray with options like flavored popcorn and Kate’s Real Food Bars. In the bathroom, I found a package of under-eye face masks, branded by the hotel’s Body Sage Spa. Near the bathtub were full-sized, high-end shampoo amenities, as well as bath salts.
There was a cozy hooded robe in the closet, and the bed linens were fluffy and soft, but with a perfectly firm mattress. While the room definitely had a mountain lodge feel, details like well-placed USB ports, cozy throw blankets, and super-fast Wifi made it feel like a modern interpretation of a classic hotel, rather than being stuck in time.
There are also perks for guests outside the rooms, including an outdoor hot tub and fire pit, a large sun deck and wildlife viewing deck on the top floor, and a coffee and tea station each morning near the communal lounge area.
The spa has some of the quirkiest treatments I’ve ever seen
A pre-treatment survey attempted to match the aromas used in my treatment with my best “energy fit.” Photo: PhiaLab
Sure, you can get a standard massage or facial at the on-site Body Sage Spa. But the menu goes way beyond that, with offerings ranging from an “energetic crystal exfoliation” with “quantum essences” to a “wild nature invigorating experience,” including a “body swap.” (Your guess is as good as mine on that one.)
While I didn’t get to figure out what a body swap was, I did opt for a 60-minute “energy force” massage with quantum physics with custom aromatherapy. I had no idea what that entailed, but after booking, I was sent an online questionnaire with all kinds of questions to drive my treatment. Instead of asking about my skin or sore muscles, it asked more personal questions, including what kind of flowers I liked and where I’d like to spend a Friday night.
Based on the survey answers, the massage staff determined that my best match was the Phia “Imagination” essential oil scent. There was a quick aroma test, as well as an unexpected balancing test, to see if it was a fit for me.
The outdoor hot tub at the Rusty Parrot looks out over a undeveloped hillside where elk often wander. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I was slightly surprised to see Phia used so heavily in the Rusty Parrot’s Spa, until I learned that the brand’s founder was a former Olympian athlete who went to one of the best chemical engineering schools in the US. She created the brand when she noticed that certain scents and aromas made her feel happier, more confident, and more physically able — three things helpful to anyone competing in high-level sports. Even though there’s not much science to support direct medical benefits of essential oils, it’s absolutely true that your mindset can impact your physical well-being. And scents can influence your mood and energy levels. So if Phia blends were able to help her win global ski competitions, I figured they’d be good enough for me.
The outdoor lounge area at the Rusty Parrot’s spa. Photo: Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa
And indeed, they were. The massage started with a minute of sound therapy, followed by a truly relaxing massage using the oil blend. I’m still not completely sure what the “quantum” part was (Phia’s website says “Quantum nutrition is harnessing bioenergetics from the botanical world,”) but I can say it was more relaxing than most other massages I’ve gotten. After my massage, I headed to the outdoor patio to make a hot tea from the tea blending bar and soak in the jacuzzi before heading back to my room.
I’ll go to the Wild Sage Restaurant whenever I’m in Jackson
The rice in my entree was delicious — and really, truly blue. Photo: Suzie Dundas
I spent most of my time in Jackson away from the hotel, leaving early in the morning to look for wildlife and staying out well past dark most evenings. So I only got to have one dinner at the hotel — but it was a good one.
Before the 2019 fire, the hotel’s Wild Sage Restaurant was one of the highest-rated in Jackson. And having eaten there, I’m not surprised that it’s back on the first page of Yelp less than one month since its reopening.
I started with a well-balanced cocktail I was only able to select thanks to advice from the server, since multiple options on the menu looked tasty. I was told every option was imagined and crafted by the on-site mixologist, using ingredients I’d not had before, like Asian pear ginger shrub and toasted black cardamom.
Dinner was equally fantastic. I’m a vegetarian, and while I find that most restaurants have vegetarian options, I’m sometimes limited to just veggie burgers or soup. But at Wild Sage, the vegetarian option was one of the prettiest and most interesting on the menu (the server’s words, not mine). And he was right, with a unique bright blue rice paired with avocado and sesame. After dinner, the chef asked me what I thought, and it was clear how passionate he was about finding fun ingredients and creating a flavorful, creative dish.
The bottom lineThe Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa is luxurious, comfortable, and welcoming, with an air of sophistication but a level of approachability and modernity that will make even first-timers to Jackson feel welcome. Visiting in November will score you the lowest rates of the year, but know that the weather can be iffy, and some businesses and restaurants take a short shoulder-season break at some point during the month. If you stay elsewhere in Jackson, you can still make reservations for the restaurant or spa, both of which are open to non-guests.
And if you do get one of the fancy spa packages, let me know — I’d still love to know what a “body swap” is.
September 9, 2024
Camera Roll: A 5-Day Hiking Trip to Yosemite National Park and the Top of Half Dome
For my 43rd birthday, my wife gave me the gift of a lifetime: a five-day hiking trip to Yosemite National Park. Coming from Mexico City, where the gray urban landscape sprawls as far as your eyes can see, I was eager to swap the usual city views for the raw beauty of one of the most iconic parks in the United States.
I joined a group of fellow adventurers from Mexico for this journey with Utopya Travel & Adventure, and Yosemite Cedar Lodge was our basecamp for the trip. Each of us in the crew were drawn by Yosemite’s promise of towering granite cliffs, pristine forests, strenuous hikes, and the kind of serenity you can only find in the wilderness.
As we made our way through Yosemite, I was continually awestruck by the sheer scale of nature around us. There’s something humbling about standing in front of El Capitan or reaching the base of Half Dome after an 8-mile hike. These moments reminded me of how small we are in comparison to the natural world, yet how deeply connected we can feel to it. Nature here doesn’t just invite you to look. It commands your full attention and respect.
This trip was more than just a birthday gift. It was an unforgettable experience that allowed me to reconnect with nature and challenge myself in ways I hadn’t expected. Each photograph in this essay captures a piece of that journey.
My first unobstructed view of Half Dome from Yosemite Valley. Four days after taking this picture I reached the summit of the famous rock. Photo: Rulo Luna
One of the best spots to take pictures of El Capitan towering over the Merced River. It might look peaceful, but a crowd of hundreds lies just outside the frame of this photo. Photo: Rulo Ramos
Day two started early for the 8.7 mile round trip to Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Point. This huge granite wall was a constant reminder of the distance left until the summit. Photo: Rulo Luna
This is Yosemite Valley from the handrail at Yosemite Point. On the lower right corner you can see the stream that turns into the Upper Yosemite Falls. The starting point of our hike is somewhere around the trees down below. Photo: Rulo Luna
We woke up at 4 AM on day three to reach Glacier Point before dawn. This is the exact moment the sun showed up behind the Sierra. Photo: Rulo Luna
The Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is located in the southern end of Yosemite. Featured in this photo is the Grizzly Giant, the largest sequoia tree in the park. Photo: Rulo Luna
Most visitors do the two-mile loop to the Grizzly Giant and call it a day. Fortunately, we decided to do the full seven-mile loop trail that takes you to the heart of Mariposa Grove, a forest that feels otherworldly due to the sheer size of its trees. Photo: Rulo Luna
The Mariposa Grove Cabin is located in the heart of the sequoia forest. This is one of the most picturesque spots in the whole park. Photo: Rulo Luna
On day four, we drove all the way up to Tuolumne Meadows. These sub-alpine meadows are some of the least visited sections in the whole park. Our first stop was Tenaya Lake, where we took a well deserved early-morning plunge. Photo: Rulo Luna
We spent the afternoon exploring the trails around Tuolumne Meadows. The tranquility of this place contrasts greatly with the busiest sections of Yosemite Valley. As the evening light started changing I spotted several deer and a few prairie dogs like the one in the picture. Photo: Rulo Luna
On our way back to the Valley we stopped at this lookout to get a final view of Half Dome before attempting to reach its summit on the following day. I felt excited and a little nervous for the upcoming challenge. Photo: Rulo Luna
Day five started early in preparation for the Half Dome hike. Pictured here is the sub dome, which we reached after some good six hours of hiking via the Mist Trail. Note that a permit is required to proceed to the sub dome area. Photo: Rulo Luna
Reaching the top of the sub dome leaves you in awe for the challenge ahead. In the picture, a woman stares at the group of hikers going up the infamous Half Dome cables. You can also see a chipmunk paying close attention to the woman’s backpack, waiting for the right time to steal a snack. Photo: Rulo Luna
I took this picture without knowing if I was going to continue all the way up to the summit. I was very tired and trying to convince myself there was no shame in going back. I started walking towards the cables to get one final photo and suddenly I found myself putting the camera in my backpack, taking out my gloves, and getting ready for one last push. Photo: Rulo Luna
Reaching the summit of Half Dome didn’t disappoint. What a great closure for such an amazing trip. Photo: Rulo Luna
More like thisNational ParksThe Best Sites to Visit on Your Next Trip to Yosemite National ParkYou Can Now Ride an Autonomous Electric Bus Through Sleeping Dunes National Lakeshore
A national park service site in northern Michigan is offering a glimpse at the future of public transit. Through early October, you can ride an autonomous electric bus to popular sites at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Adastec, a company specializing in autonomous vehicle technology for commercial purposes, is testing autonomous shuttling for park guests in a first-of-its-kind concept for the National Park Service. Guests can register in advance to take part in an experience that, if successful, could set the bar for mass transit in other crowded park service sites.
The project, a test run stretching from mid-August to early October, shuttles visitors from the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive (PSSD) parking lot to three popular overlooks and back to the parking lot in two-hour increments. The stops include North Bar Overlook, Lake Michigan Overlook, and the PSSD Dune Overlook. Tours last two hours, and guests should plan to commit to the entire tour – the bus will park and wait for a designated amount of time at each stop before moving on to the next one. Miss the bus, and you could be stuck for a while.
“Michigan and the National Park Service are studying how the next generation of automated bus technology performs in an outdoor recreational setting, and if automated, electric transit buses have the potential to improve safety, the visitor experience, and environmental sustainability,” Adastec says on its website. “This pilot will evaluate the potential for larger-scale deployments in other recreational or public transit settings.”
How does the Adastec autonomous electric bus work?Photo courtesy Adastec
The Adastec autonomous electric bus used in the pilot at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is quipped with LiDAR sensors to help it comprehend what’s happening around it, as well as cameras, radar, and ultrasonic sensors. The bus constantly scans its environment and makes split-second decisions. This understandably sounds a bit sketch for riders who haven’t ridden in an autonomous vehicle before. However, as data is compiled through increased use, statistics are beginning to show that autonomous vehicles are actually safer than human drivers in many common driving situations. That’s because the vehicles constantly process and react to data in the moment and the “human factor” is eliminated. Every decision is based purely on data and sensors, with factors like emotion and distractions not impacting the “driver.”
The collected data is processed by the autonomous driving system, flowride.ai, which makes real-time decisions about steering, acceleration, braking, and navigation. Powered by electric motors for efficient and clean propulsion, the bus utilizes artificial intelligence to learn from its experiences and improve its performance over time.
Why is the Automated Bus Pilot at Sleeping Bear Dunes important?
Map courtesy Adastec
Two critical aspects speak to the importance of this test pilot. First is that these buses are electric. Bus service already shuttles passengers through some busy national parks and sites operated by the NPS, including Zion National Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. These buses, while certainly a greener and more manageable option than having all of the passengers drive personal vehicles through the park, are powered by internal combustion engines, and therefore pollute the parks as they move guests through them. By providing busses that aren’t spewing carbon dioxide into the air, the NPS can ensure a healthier environment for guests while also cutting costs.
Cost-cutting is another notable aspect of the autonomous electric buses. There’s no driver, and although this pilot is monitored in real time by Adastec, as the technology improves it’s possible that this or other autonomous transportation services could help the NPS direct labor resources to other aspects of the park experience such as maintenance, crowd control, guided trail outings, and more. The concept is similar to how autonomous rideshare services like Waymo are revolutionizing private transit.
The project was funded by the Michigan Office of Future Mobility and Electrification’s National Parks Michigan Mobility Challenge, a project from the National Park Service and the Michigan Department of Transportation. The technology used for the pilot is part of Adastec’s flowride.ai concept. A staff member from Adastec will be onboard the bus at all times, and can jump behind the wheel just in case something goes wrong. Visit the ride booking page to schedule your tour if you plan to be in the area over the coming month.
Healing Spas, Lake Cruises, and World-Class Gastronomy: 3 Small Towns to Visit in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France
Southeastern France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is famous for some big things, from Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, and the rolling landscapes that unfurl below it to the millennia-spanning architecture that defines the region’s capital city, Lyon, and beyond. Ironically, one of the best ways to experience all that grandeur is to think small — that is, to visit the small towns that reflect the best of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes’ endless outdoor possibilities, robust agriculture and gastronomy, and long history and cultural heritage.
Évian-les-Bains, Annecy, and Aix-les-Bains are three storybook towns that together make for a perfect Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes itinerary. Summer and winter are high seasons in the region, but with plenty of sun in the shoulder seasons, there’s really no bad time to visit. Here’s where to go, what to do, where to eat and stay, and how to get around on your whirlwind tour of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes’s charming small towns.
How to get to and around Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
Photo: Alexandre.ROSA/Shutterstock
Getting to Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is a breeze for US travelers, thanks to several cities offering direct flights. You can fly directly into Geneva, Switzerland, from major cities like New York, Los Angeles, and Atlanta. From Geneva, it’s a scenic one-hour drive or a short train ride to Évian-les-Bains, the first stop on our itinerary. Alternatively, you can fly into Paris or Lyon and take a high-speed train.
One benefit of traveling to Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes is that most of its cities and towns are replete with pedestrian-friendly streets and attractions that are located within a short distance of one another. When you’re not getting around on foot, taxis are a quick and reliable form of local transport. However, if you plan on traveling from town to town, look to public transportation like buses and trains to get from one destination to the next. Of course, renting a car is also an option, and a particularly good one if you’re hoping to work in side trips to the mountains or scenic areas between towns.
Évian-les-Bains
Photo: Samuel Borges Photography/Shutterstock
Évian-les-Bains is a town on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, a stone’s throw from Switzerland. It gained prominence in the early 19th century when its natural springs were discovered to have therapeutic properties. As a result, Évian became a sought-after spa destination for European royals and nobles, which it remains today for travelers. And before you ask, yes, it’s also the birthplace of evian® spring water.
Things to do in Évian-les-BainsTake the funicular and stroll around town
Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock
Évian is home to a famous funicular railway that launched in 1907. The free-to-use funicular runs for roughly one half-mile from a lakeside station behind the Palais Lumière to an elevated station near the Grange au Lac concert venue in Neuvecelle. It’s open from April to September with trains arriving every 20 minutes. Pair a ride on the funicular with a lakeside stroll for a fun and relaxing way to see the town.
Fill your water bottle at Cachat Spring
Photo: COULANGES
/Shutterstock
No trip to Évian is complete without taking a drink from this treasure fountain, which opened in 1903 and is now owned by the Evian mineral water company. The spring runs all year round at a consistent temperature of 52.8 degrees Fahrenheit, making it a refreshing stop for travelers. Just remember to bring your water bottle to fill up.
Steps from the fountain, take in the grandeur of the Buvette Cachat. Originally a watering hole for European elites, the historic hall hosted lavish events that defined the era’s social scene. Now, Évian is experiencing a Belle Époque-inspired revitalization project that aims to restore the landmark to its former glory by preserving intricate details while modernizing facilities for contemporary use. Worth admiring from outside, the Buvette Cachat is slated to reopen in 2025.
Buvette Cachat: 19 Rue Nationale, 74500 Évian-les-Bains, France
Attend the Amundi Evian Championship
Photo: Andre61/Shutterstock
The Amundi Evian Championship is the only major women’s golf tournament in the world. It’s held at the Evian Resort Golf Club, typically in July. Fans of the sport should plan for summer visits and be sure to reserve tickets and accommodations in advance.
Evian Resort Golf Club: Rte du Golf, 74500 Évian-les-Bains, France
Sail from Lake Geneva to Yvoire aboard
Photo: Robert Harding Video/Shutterstock
About a 30-minute drive from Évian, the medieval small town of Yvoire makes for a fantastic day trip. For a true alpine lake experience, skip the car and opt for a scenic sail instead. Spend a morning aboard the King Louis 74 as you delight in a breakfast that’s freshly prepared by the captain. A sun-soaked voyage with captivating views will surely make this three-hour journey feel all too short.
In Yvoire, connect with nature at the Garden of Five Senses, with sections dedicated to each of the senses. You’ll wander through aromatic herb beds, feel the textures of different leaves and plants, listen to the soothing sounds of water features, admire the vibrant colors of seasonal blooms, and even taste some of the edible flora. Later, soak up more than seven centuries of history as you stroll through Yvoire’s narrow, cobblestone streets. Pop into galleries and boutiques to peruse everything from handcrafted jewelry to regional specialties like Savoyard cheeses and fine wines.
Garden of Five Senses: 12 Rue du Lac, 74140 Yvoire, France
Where to eat in ÉvianLa TableView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hôtel Ermitage – Evian Resort (@hotelermitageevian)
Located in the Hôtel Ermitage, La Table offers a refined culinary experience featuring dishes made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Enjoy starters like trout from Lake Geneva with watermelon and herbs, then move on to mains like beef or duck filets. For dessert, get something fruity or stick to a classic French cheese plate. And if the weather is warm, definitely dine on the terrace.
La Table: 1230 Av. du Léman, 74500 Évian-les-Bains, France
Hôtel de la PlageDuring your day trip to Yvoire, have lunch at Hôtel de la Plage. Overlooking the beach and the hotel’s beautifully manicured garden, this lakeside restaurant serves up fresh seafood and regional specialties, from beef tartare to foie gras.
Hôtel de la Plage: Chem. de l’Hôtel de la Plage, 74140 Excenevex, France
Where to stay in ÉvianHôtel ErmitageView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hôtel Ermitage – Evian Resort (@hotelermitageevian)
Surrounded by lush gardens and scenic landscapes, Hôtel Ermitage is the perfect base for relaxing, embracing wellness, and exploring the natural beauty of the French Alps. It has a cozy atmosphere and all the comforts of a four-star resort, with amenities including a spa, indoor and outdoor pools, and gourmet dining. Opt for the deluxe lakeview room for breathtaking views of the expansive property and Lake Geneva.
Hôtel Ermitage: 1230 Av. du Léman, 74500 Évian-les-Bains, France
Annecy
Photo: PeopleImages.com – Yuri A/Shutterstock
Often called the “Venice of the Alps,” Annecy is known for its stunning canals, vibrant old town, and crystal-clear lake. Annecy flourished in the Middle Ages as a center of commerce and governance. Today, it’s renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, including the Château d’Annecy and the Palais de l’Isle. The town’s idyllic setting by Lake Annecy, one of Europe’s cleanest lakes, makes it a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts who love boating, swimming, running, and cycling.
Things to do in AnnecyCycle around Lake Annecy
Photo: oliverdelahaye/Shutterstock
Lake Annecy was formed by glacial runoff around 18,000 years ago. There are several places you can rent a bike to cycle around the lake, including e-bikes ones if you prefer a leisurely excursion. The entire journey should take you around two and a half hours without stopping, so be sure to plan ahead so you have enough time.
Take a boat tour with the Compagnie des Bateaux
Photo:
Olha Solodenko/Shutterstock
Available year-round, this boat tour showcases panoramic views of the lake’s glassy waters, lush mountains, and charming lakeside villages. You can choose between a one-hour tour, a 90-minute tour, or a two-hour tour that includes lunch or dinner. The tour is given in French; however, an English audio version is available on your mobile device. It’s a wonderful way to learn more about the region and its history.
Compagnie des Bateaux: 2 Pl. aux Bois, 74000 Annecy, France
Explore the Old Town
Photo: leoks/Shutterstock
Walking through Annecy’s Old Town will make you feel as though you’re traveling back in time. With remarkable old buildings donning colorful facades, a bevy of bridges over beautiful canals, and worn cobblestone streets, there’s plenty to see in the village. Pop into novelty shops, sit al fresco at a cafe, and indulge in your fill of raclette on a self-guided tour, or take a guided tour to get a deep dive into Annecy’s history.
Where to eat in AnnecyAuberge du LyonnaisView this post on InstagramA post shared by AUBERGE DU LYONNAIS ANNECY (@aubergedulyonnaisannecy)
In Annecy’s Old Town, Auberge du Lyonnais exudes charm with its traditional Savoyard ambiance and welcoming atmosphere. Inside, you’ll dine on hearty regional cuisine (made from fresh local ingredients) surrounded by rustic yet elegant decor, creating a cozy setting perfect for a memorable dining experience. Pair meaty classics like foie gras and steak tartare or fish dishes like pan-fried omble (char) with a selection from the restaurant’s wine list, featuring both local and international varieties.
Auberge du Lyonnais: 9 Rue de la République, 74000 Annecy, France
SV144 – Bar & BouchéesView this post on InstagramA post shared by SV144 – Bar & Bouchées (@sv144_annecy)
If you fancy tapas and tipples, SV144 – Bar & Bouchées is a chic and contemporary spot that’s perfect for enjoying delicious small plates and expertly crafted cocktails. Don’t let the bar’s quaint size fool you — its innovative drinks and extensive wine list complement flavorful bites that leave a lasting impression.
SV144 – Bar & Bouchées: 13 Rue Royale, Gal des Sorbiers, 74000 Annecy, France
Where to stay in AnnecyRivage Hôtel & SpaView this post on InstagramA post shared by Rivage Hôtel & Spa Annecy (@rivagehotelannecy)
For a luxurious stay complete with spa treatments and delicious dining, the Rivage Hôtel & Spa in Annecy is a top choice. While the nearest beach is only 500 yards from the hotel, the property brings the beach vibes right to your doorstep with its beach bar area. With its convenient location near the historic Old Town and its array of shops, restaurants, and attractions, the Rivage Hotel is an ideal choice for travelers looking to explore both Annecy’s beauty and the culture.
Rivage Hôtel & Spa: 33 Av. du Petit Port, 74940 Annecy, France
Aix-les-Bains
Photo: SYLVAIN FELTEN/Shutterstock
Aix-les-Bains, referred to simply as Aix by locals, is set on the tranquil shores of Lake Bourget and surrounded by the French Alps. The picturesque spa town is heralded for its amazing natural scenery and rejuvenating thermal baths. In its heyday, Aix was a magnet for aristocrats and high society seeking not only relaxation but also social prestige. It was common to see elegantly dressed aristocrats and high society members strolling through the town’s lush parks and promenades. Today, the town continues to be celebrated for its thermal baths and Belle Époque architecture.
Things to do in Aix-les-BainsCruise across Lake Bourget
Photo: EQRoy/Shutterstock
If you’re traveling to Aix-les-Bains in the summer, indulge in the warm weather and get a glimpse at the wider region on a boat cruise across Lake Bourget, France’s largest natural lake, with Les Canotiers du Lac Tour Company. You can book a custom excursion to explore at your own pace; it’s relatively inexpensive at approximately $165 per five people for one hour. Pro tip: Book a tour to the ancient village of Chanaz where you can spend the day exploring, shopping, and dining — whatever your preferred cruise, it’s best to book in advance.
Les Canotiers du Lac Tour Company: Pl. Président Edouard Herriot, 73100 Aix-les-Bains, France
Join a guided tour of the Aix palacesTouring the former palaces in Aix-les-Bains gives a fascinating glimpse into the town’s glamorous past. These elegant residences, once the retreat of aristocrats and royals, showcase impressive Belle Époque architecture and opulent interiors. Your guide will share intriguing stories of the lavish lifestyles and historical events that unfolded within these walls. As you stroll through beautifully preserved rooms and manicured gardens, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for Aix’s rich heritage and architectural splendor.
Visit Hautecombe Abbey
Photo: lemaret pierrick/Shutterstock
Perched on the shores of Lake Bourget, Hautecombe Abbey will leave you in awe with its Gothic architecture and spectacular views of the lake over the cliffs. It’s the final resting place of the Savoys, local royalty. As you explore its grand halls and peaceful cloisters, you’ll be captivated by the mesmerizing watercolor paintings, statues, and a tranquil air of peace that pervades the site. These days, it’s a popular tourist destination and one of the best things to do in the area. Its shoreside location makes for the perfect spot for reflection photography, so be sure to bring a camera.
Hautecombe Abbey: 73310 Saint-Pierre-de-Curtille, France
Have a healing spa day at ValVital
Photo: Alina Vaska/Shutterstock
You’d be remiss to visit the “City of Baths” without visiting one of its thermal spas. The therapeutic thermal waters have attracted visitors seeking health and relaxation for centuries. Check out ValVital Thermes Chevalley where the mineral-rich waters are believed to aid in the treatment of various ailments, including respiratory and rheumatic conditions. ValVital offers a range of modern wellness services, from hydrotherapy and thermal baths to massages and beauty treatments. Given how popular it is, it’s best to book in advance, especially during the thermal season from May to December.
ValVital Thermes Chevalley: 10 Rte du Revard, 73100 Aix-les-Bains, France
Where to eat in Aix-les-BainsLa Table de L’IncomparableView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hotel L'Incomparable (@hotelincomparable)
At Aix’s Hôtel L’Incomparable, the restaurant La Table is a one-Michelin-star restaurant helmed by Chef Antoine Cevoz-Mamy, whose prestigious dishes blend innovation and tradition. Choose between three tasting options: a seven-course prix fixe menu for approximately $98 per person, excluding drinks; an eight-course prix fixe menu for approximately $109 per person, excluding drinks; or a nine-course prix fixe menu for approximately $153 per person, excluding drinks. All three menus showcase some of the best vegetables, meats, and seafood around.
La Table de L’Incomparable : 70 Chem. de Belledonne, 73100 Tresserve, France
Le Lido RestaurantLe Lido Restaurant is an informal spot in Aix that serves exceptional dishes made from local and seasonal products. Come for dinner to enjoy the widest selection, and take your meal on the spacious terrace for extra servings of Lake Bourget scenery. If it’s chilly when you visit, dine inside to appreciate the warm and elegant atmosphere (and rest assured that you’ll still get lake views from the floor-to-ceiling windows).
Le Lido Restaurant: Bord du lac d’Aix les Bains, 73100 Tresserve, France
Where to stay in Aix-les-BainsHôtel L’IncomparableView this post on InstagramA post shared by Hotel L'Incomparable (@hotelincomparable)
Hôtel L’Incomparable is a five-star boutique hotel and spa. Just as its name promises, you’ll have trouble finding another hotel that has the same old-world charm but modern-inspired décor. It’s the perfect hotel to unwind with its barrel-shaped sauna set against the surreal backdrop of Lake Bourget. For the most memorable and restorative experience, take advantage of the many spa services on offer during your stay.
Hôtel L’Incomparable: 70 Chem. de Belledonne, 73100 Tresserve, France
13 Cruises to Book if You Want to Spend the Holidays Far From Home
You don’t have to spend the holidays with relatives, cooking, decorating, gift wrapping, and cleaning up. If that’s how you like to spend Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year, good for you, but if it’s not, know that you have options, the most enjoyable of which is to take off on a cruise. Planning a holiday season a la Luther and Nora Krank is entirely possible and it looks nothing like what goes on in Skipping Christmas. Instead, it’s all about relaxing, leaving the chores to others, and exploring far-flung destinations. Use the money you would have spent on groceries, gifts, and ornaments, and get yourself a drinks package and some shore excursions on one of the following amazing sailings that still have availabilities for the 2024 holiday season.
Spend Christmas and New Year wildlife watching on a Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic cruise
Photo: FOTOGRIN/Shutterstock
For a total change of scene and the opportunity to see unique wildlife, book yourself on one of Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic’s holiday sailings. The cruise line has two different voyages on offer in December: one to Mexico’s Baja Peninsula and one to the Galápagos Islands.
During the Baja California Holiday Voyage (Dec. 21-28, Dec. 28-Jan. 4), you can expect to see pods of dolphins, blue, grey, and humpback whales, mobula rays, and sea lions from the ship or while kayaking, snorkelling, and hiking.
With only 48 guests on board, the Ultimate Galápagos Holiday Voyage(Dec. 19-30) is a very intimate and active sailing during which you can snorkel, hike, kayak, and paddleboard and observe sea turtles, penguins, marine iguanas, and giant tortoises.
Enjoy all the holiday traditions you love at sea, and in the sun, with Holland America
Photo: eskystudio/Shutterstock
If it’s a sunny escape you’re looking for this coming November and December, Holland America’s got you covered for all three big holidays. Spend Thanksgiving in the Caribbean on the cruise line’s seven-day Tropical Caribbean (Nov. 24 to Dec. 1) or the 11-day Eastern Caribbean Wayfarer (Nov. 23 to Dec. 4) sailings; enjoy Christmas in San Juan, Puerto Rico, with the seven-day Eastern Caribbean (Dec. 22 to 29) or the seven-day Eastern Caribbean Holiday (Dec. 23 to 30) voyages; or ring in the new year in Mexico on the seven-day Mexican Riviera Holiday cruise (Dec. 28 to Jan. 4).
If you want to get away for the holidays but don’t want to completely ignore all the lovely traditions of the season, know that Holland America organizes Christmas tree and candle lighting, latkes and jelly-filled donuts for Hannukah, a holiday village display, and a New Year’s Eve party during all its holiday sailings.
Have Christmas dinner in Antarctica with Aurora Expeditions
Photo: Steve Allen /Shutterstock
Few places will get you as far away from annoying relatives than Antarctica and, as luck would have it, the Antartica cruising season happens to start in November and last through mid-February. Aurora Expeditions will take you there on a 14-day voyage from Ushuaia, Argentina, through the Drake Passage, across the Antarctic Circle, and around the Peninsula through both Christmas and New Year. In between Zodiac trips to see whales, penguins, and ice seals, you’ll get to enjoy a Christmas dinner surrounded by icebergs.
Celebrate Christmas and New year sailing around the Great Barrier Reef
Photo: Cynthia A Jackson/Shutterstock
December and January is peak summer season in Australia, guaranteeing some hot and sunny weather for those who will travel on Oceania’s Wonders of Australia voyage. This sailing starts in Sydney on December 22, takes you north on the Coral Sea (home of the Great Barrier Reef) all the way to Darwin, before making three stops in Indonesia (Bali, Lombok, Komodo) and ending in Perth on the west coast. You will, of course, have the opportunity to snorkel and dive to see the world’s largest coral reef system, and the creatures that inhabit it, up close.
Embrace the holiday season on a Christmas Market cruise through Europe
Photo: fokke baarssen/Shutterstock
One way to enjoy Christmas at its fullest is to book a cruise that will take you to the most Christmasy places in the world: Europe’s Christmas markets. Viking’s Christmas on the Rhine sailing is an eight-day trip through four countries (Switzerland, France, Germany, and the Netherlands), that stops at some of the most magical Christmas markets in the world, including the ones in Strasbourg, France, and Cologne, Germany. There are several departure dates in December, and if you opt for the December 18 sailing, you’ll spend Christmas Day and Boxing Day on board.
Embark on a 1931 historic four-masted ship to spend the holidays in the Caribbean
Photo: Sea Cloud Cruises
Sea Cloud Cruises has a fleet of three luxury four-masted windjammers, including Sea Cloud, a storied 1931 ship on which you can spend both Christmas and New Year. Because peak Caribbean cruising season starts in December, Sea Cloud will depart from the island of St. Marteen on December 20 and sail to eight different Caribbean islands during a 14-day voyage before returning to the Dutch island on January 3. There will be plenty of opportunities to swim, snorkel, and SUP throughout the trip. You’ll spend Christmas Eve in St. Lucia, Christmas Day in Grenada, and New Year in Virgin Gorda for a holiday season under coconut palms.
Celebrate both Christmas and New Year on European rivers
Photo: Balate.Dorin/Shutterstock
Scenic’s Christmas & New Year sailing is a 15-day trip across four European countries via the Danube and the Rhine rivers. The voyage starts on December 23 in Budapest, where you can attend Christmas mass in a local church on Christmas Eve, and continues through Austria and Germany, where multiple stops are scheduled, before ending in Amsterdam in the Netherlands on January 4. The New Year celebrations will take place in the UNESCO-listed town of Bamberg in Germany.
Spend the holidays sailing around New Zealand
Photo: Celebrity Cruises
A 13-day loop starting from and ending in Sydney, Australia, Celebrity’s New Zealand Holiday sailing will visit seven different ports around both the South Island the North Island of New Zealand between December 20 and January 3. While Christmas Eve will be spent in Dunedin, on the west coast of the South Island, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day will be spent at sea on board the Celebrity Edge, where there are 29 food and beverage venues and a spa offering up to 120 different treatments.
Pickleball Travel: New Company Shows You Every Pickleball Court in the World and Where to Stay
The satisfying thwack of a pickleball volley echoes across courts nationwide. According to the USA Pickleball Association, pickleball is now the second-fastest growing sport in the US (after soccer), and it has seen a participation boom of 223 percent in the last few years. It’s easy to learn and inexpensive to play, and it’s clear pickleball is not only here to stay, but the game is giving tennis a run for its money. If you’re a fan, a new trip planning site, Pickle Trip, will help you seamlessly integrate your love for the game with your next vacation.
This innovative platform, created by TravelAI, is a game-changer for pickleball enthusiasts. Pickle Trip offers a one-stop shop for finding the perfect pickleball court and accommodation, all in one place.
Photo: Pickle Trip
The site has a comprehensive database of publicly available courts. This wealth of information allows you to plan your trip centered around the ideal court location, and it pairs this with listings from leading booking giants like Booking.com, Expedia, VRBO, and HometoGo to find you nearby accommodation.
Using AI to help plan a vacation is becoming increasingly popular. From apps like GuideGeek, Matador’s AI travel assistant, to sites like Pickle Trip, users can tailor their vacation time to fit their needs and wants.
“The modern traveler is armed with more information and choice than ever before. This customer is not just seeking a service but an experience meticulously crafted around their individual preferences. In a word, they’re seeking hyper-personalization,” says John Lyotier, CEO of Travel AI.
The site eliminates the guesswork from planning a pickleball-centric vacation and is super simple to use. Start by exploring the extensive database of pickleball courts.
Photo: Pickle Trip
Filter your search by location, amenities, or even court type (indoor, outdoor, etc.)
Photo: Pickle Trip
Once you’ve identified your ideal court location, the site connects you to many accommodation options on booking platforms. Choose from hotels, vacation rentals, apartments, and charming bed and breakfasts — conveniently near your chosen court.
September 6, 2024
A Week Off the Tourist Trail in El Cuco, El Salvador
I am not the likeliest serial traveler to Central America. I don’t speak Spanish, or surf, or have any kind of Latin dance skills. But in recent years, I’ve been drawn to the region repeatedly, making visits to Nicaragua, Guatemala, and, this past June, to El Salvador. After the country made this year’s “52 Places to Go” list from the New York Times, I felt the familiar, early tug of intrigue that so often sends me into trip-planning mode.
But the same spotlight that piqued my interest also made me wary. Did I want to go to a place where the best-known spots were becoming increasingly crowded? What else did the country offer, away from the deepening grooves of the tourist trail?
I was keen to avoid the usual tourist destinations, like those in “Surf City.” Photo: Omri Eliyahu/Shutterstock
Once famously dangerous, though now safe under strong-arm tactics from a government that some say has jailed innocent people, El Salvador’s recent tough-on-crime laws have helped make it an up-and-coming tourist destination. On my trip, I wanted to avoid the usual haunts, including Salvadoran “Surf City” (actually a region, not a city), advertised to both gringo and local wave-riders around El Tunco, El Zonte, and La Libertad. Nor did I want to drive the much-trafficked Ruta de las Flores (“Route of the Flowers,”) a flower-packed highway through colonial villages in the country’s west.
So with the goal of avoiding tourist traps, I decided on a week in El Salvador in the country’s quieter corners, as well as a nearly-deserted beach or two. I did spend some time in the capital, San Salvador, necessitated by my flight schedule. But mostly, I explored the San Miguel region, in the country’s southeast. It’s near the Gulf of Fonseca and has seen little of the tourism-driven growth experienced elsewhere in El Salvador in recent years.
I landed in San Salvador on a Wednesday night, the humid air like a warm wet towel. I taxied to the Hotel Maria Ofelia, a 20-mile southerly drive from Ilopango International Airport, renowned for its distance from everywhere. The American writer Joan Didion, one of my literary heroes, opened her 1983 book Salvador with a description of the same air hub, calling it “splendidly isolated.”A surprisingly peaceful morning in San Salvador
Photo: Gianfranco Vivi/Shutterstock
I slept hard and awoke the following day for a traditional breakfast of scrambled eggs, beans, tortillas, and coffee at the hotel’s on-site restaurant, with a view over Highway 2, which would later lead me to the region’s beach towns. Soon after, a 45-minute bus ride took me to San Salvador’s Centro Historico, home to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace, now a museum), the National Library, and the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Salvador.
It was in this cathedral on March 24, 1980, that guerrillas fatally shot Cardinal Óscar Romero, who was also a prominent human rights activist, as he gave Catholic mass. Romero’s killing set in motion the country’s civil war, which ground on for a dozen years before a negotiated peace ended the bloodshed for good in 1992. Though figures vary widely, an estimated 75,000 civilians died during the conflict.
Wanting to learn more about the war and its conclusion, I headed to the Museo de la Palabra y la Imagen (the Museum of the Word and Image), for a crash course in modern Salvadoran history. Labor revolts, bloody suppression, and Cold War conflicts all made their mark in the country, as the museum showed in vivid detail.
During my late afternoon visit, the museum hosted more employees than visitors. And with signs in both Spanish and English, I found my first quiet Salvadoran place in the heart of the city.
Beach days in little-known El Cuco
Photo: Cesar Alejandro Hernandez/Shutterstock
The staff at Maria Ofelia arranged a taxi to El Cuco, the beach village I chose mostly for the tranquil-looking photos I’d found online. Pulling up to the Sambo Mambo Beach Hotel, I grinned as I took in its columned hacienda-style courtyard, and was later beckoned to the beach by a coastal palapa, or grass-roofed hut.
At check-in, I struggled to form coherent Spanish sentences before the receptionist switched to perfect California English. Angie, from Fresno, had moved there some months earlier. She worked for the owner and her lifelong friend, Jeannette.
I spent the next few days slowing down to match El Cuco’s pokey pace. Breakfasts took place in the palapa, where I washed down eggs and beans with several café con leches. The scene offered open views of the Pacific and a surf without surfers; I read books or simply watched the water.
One afternoon, I hired a jolly cab driver named Rudy, who took me to Intipucá, a nearby village in the far-southeastern department of La Unión. The town is famous for sending workers to Washington, DC. Intipucá had some unusually large homes and amenities, all built with money earned in the United States, Rudy explained.
Rudy, my guide for the day. Photo: Will Fleeson
As the rain gathered that afternoon, Rudy drove partway to El Cuco before parking in a lot near a beach shack. I had wanted to see a typical hangout, I told him — a place where locals go. In a corner, kids huddled around a TV. A few friends chatted at plastic tables, greeting Rudy when they recognized him.
I watched the rain hit the water, a mesmerizing sight. Rudy and I shared beers, a seafood medley, and the music of rain on the sheet metal roof. I thanked my new friend for taking me here, and for sharing a place where he spent his free time, too.
Rainy days, and unexpected connections
Photo: Michelle Marie Espinosa/Shutterstock
Another afternoon, a driver named William took me east to land’s end. The Gulf of Fonseca, a three-country water body bordering El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua, appealed to my inner geography nerd. I wanted to see the gulf’s massive Conchagua volcano up close.
Yet instead of gulf islands and sea vistas, rain obscured everything. Parking the car, we waded through puddles with our shoes in our hands, then padded around barefoot for an hour in a low-running river bed, hoping the clouds would clear. But it continued to rain heavily, and we passed El Tamarindo beach after we gave up, where a few stray dogs and fewer people wandered the sand.
Waiting out the rain in Las Tunas, La Unión, El Salvador. Photo: Will Fleeson
Later, I asked William for the same kind of locals-only spots that Rudy knew, and we stopped at a set of open-deck beach restaurants at Las Tunas beach. Families were spending their Sunday afternoons over meals and soft drinks. Melancholy banda music wafted everywhere. I ordered Salvadoran conchas negras (a traditional black clam stew) hoping for a typical Salvadoran treat.
When the bowl came, I grabbed a big lemon wedge and squirted the inky contents with juice — and two of the clams cringed.
“Some of these are still moving!” I told William, pointing indignantly to the table as he nursed his drink. He looked surprised that I was surprised.
“Lemon juice hurts them,” William said. “So yes, claro. Of course.”
After that, I could say that at the very least, eating not-quite-dead shellfish while overlooking a nearly deserted, undeveloped beach made me think I’d succeeded in avoiding the usual tourist track.
The beach view from the restaurant at Punta Mango resort. Photo: Will Fleeson
I spent my last day in El Cuco driving with Jeannette of the Sambo Mambo hotel. Born in El Salvador, she studied, worked, and lived in the United States for decades. The hotel was a new venture for her, she said, as she wanted to help the town develop by creating jobs and generating income for locals.
We sat for hours sipping tequila to the west of El Cuco at Punta Mango Surf Resort, a place Jeannette liked for its black-sand beach and coastal view. The resort sits in a gorgeous cove with arresting lime-green vegetation, where the sound of crashing waves contrasted with the silent, blissfully empty bar. Save for a small niche of adventurous surfers, the resort is solidly off most tourists’ radar. The place’s beachside bar and serenity made for a near-perfect hideaway, well removed from the Norteamericanos I sought to avoid by coming to El Salvador’s southeastern corner.
A final day in San SalvadorView this post on Instagram
A post shared by Xpot (@xpotsv)
The trip back to San Salvador took some doing. El Cuco’s travel services remain a work in progress, and even with Sambo Mambo’s help, I struggled to find a taxi for the three-hour drive to the capital. Finally I left the memorable personalities of El Cuco behind and returned to the big city.
I stayed overnight at the Villa Serena San Benito, in the upscale San Benito neighborhood, experiencing a more luxurious side of the city. But the Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Anthropology Museum) was closed, and its celebrated restaurant, El Xolo, felt like too much of a splurge. So with time to kill, I found myself on the terrace of La Hola Beto’s, a Salvadoran-Japanese fusion restaurant.
Mariscada, a seafood stew that comes in many styles and variations. Photo: Ricardo A Estevan Gamarra/Shutterstock
Over a (fully-cooked) mariscada seafood stew, I reflected on how much I’d discovered in El Salvador. The rainy weather had pushed me to connect with locals: talking with people, using my meager Spanish, and listening intently to the rich stories of those I met. Avoiding El Salvador’s ever-growing tourist trail provided not only peaceful moments outdoors, but plenty of stimulating conversation, gifting me with local encounters that felt authentic.
The next morning, a taxi from San Benito carried me to Didion’s “splendidly isolated” airport, and I headed home to DC.
Since my return, that old trip-planning urge has returned. My goal this time? Seek out even more remote parts of El Salvador, and their many little-known treasures, on my next trip to Central America.
Matador Network's Blog
- Matador Network's profile
- 6 followers
