Matador Network's Blog, page 122

Madrid Neighborhood Guide: 4 City Districts for Getting Off the Beaten Path

The city of Madrid is filled with enough sights and activities to keep visitors entertained for weeks. While first-timers might be tempted to stick to popular areas like the central Sol-Gran Vía and regal Austrias districts, there are historic landmarks, picturesque plazas, and outstanding culinary offerings throughout the vibrant Spanish capital. You’d need a lifetime to fully explore Madrid’s 131 neighborhoods, each with its own personality showcasing a distinct part of everyday Madrileño life. But you can get a head start by venturing to these underrated neighborhoods that hold tons of appeal for travelers — beginning with the fact that they’re less touristy.

El Retiro — for the finer things

El Retiro Park. Photo: MADRID DESTINO

At first glance, Retiro won’t strike you as an underrated neighborhood. It is, after all, home to the lush El Retiro Park, a favorite open space among both tourists and locals, and the world-famous Museo Nacional del Prado. But the neighborhood itself gets far less attention than it deserves. Largely residential, Retiro has wide, attractive boulevards like Ibiza and Alcalde Sainz de Baranda that give it a similar layout to Barrio de Salamanca next door — and much like its neighbor, you’ll find lots of upscale boutiques lining the streets.

Designer shopping is just one example of the finer things found in El Retiro. Art is another. Stroll through the park to admire the stately cast-iron architecture of the 19th-century Glass Palace for a taste of the neighborhood’s style. When it’s time for a snack, stop by La Paz Market to sample local cheese, cured meats, and to try a Spanish omelet, as well as stock up on wine to take back home. Other traditional culinary offerings to check out include La Castela and Laredo, while there are plenty of modern options such as Arzabal and Bakan.

You’re not far from nightlife when you base in El Retiro, either. After dark, pop over to nearby Ibiza to find countless more restaurants and a huge number of bars. Housed in a 19th-century building, Florida Park alone is divided into five entertainment spaces and known to keep the party going all night long.

With 39 five-star hotels in the area, you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing a luxurious place to stay. Bless Hotel Madrid specializes in feel-good elegance with personalized experiences and beauty treatments, while Rosewood Villa Magna will feel like your posh private villa in the middle of the prestigious tree-lined Paseo de la Castellana.

Conde Duque — for the trendsetters

Conde Duque. Photo: MADRID DESTINO

West of the alternative and arty Malasaña district, you’ll find a small neighborhood with blurry borders called Conde Duque. This relatively new barrio got its name from Centro Cultural de Conde Duque, a military barracks turned cultural center. The neighborhood’s narrow cobblestone streets wander from Plaza de Las Comendadoras toward Calle Princesa and house all sorts of trendy establishments, from art galleries and vintage shops to bars and restaurants. Conde Duque’s vibe is decidedly hip — think Malasaña’s older, boho-chic sibling.

If you pride yourself on being an in-the-know traveler who frequents places before the masses catch on, you’ll adore Conde Duque, which is still a quiet and peaceful haven of everything cool. This is especially evident in the shopping scene — there are no department or chain stores in sight. Instead, up-and-coming designers and vintage shops coexist with comic stores and vinyl record shops. As far as food goes, tapas are the way to go here, thanks to a high concentration of old-school taverns where marinated anchovies, olives, and croquetas are served alongside vermouth on tap. To end the night, don’t miss Café La Palma and Tempo Audiophile Club for live music.

While Conde Duque isn’t known for luxury accommodations, you’ll have your pick of nice mid-range hotels. Try the boutique Dear Hotel, Hotel Vincci 66, or Hotel Riu Plaza España, made famous by the glass bridge on its rooftop bar.

Chamberí — for a taste of open-air local life

Chamberí. Photo: MADRID DESTINO

Located north of the city center, Chamberí is home to tree-lined streets, elegant architecture, and family-run shops. It also houses several lesser-known museums like the Sorolla Museum, where Valencian painter Joaquín Sorolla once lived, and the Geomineral Museum, which holds an important collection of minerals, rocks, and fossils. To appreciate works by Goya in an intimate setting, head to the Museum of Romanticism, located in the 18th-century former palace of the Marquis of Matallana.

Calm, residential Chamberí will appeal to travelers who want to experience the authentic Madrileño lifestyle away from the busy tourist spots. To best acquaint yourself with the area, head to its squares and terraces like Plaza de Chamberí and Plaza de Olavide, where locals gather to savor wine or sip a caña (small beer) after work. Calle Ponzano has recently seen its share of culinary hotspots crop up, such as Sala de Despiece, where chef Javier Bonet serves his take on traditional tapas. 99 Sushi Bar, a Japanese izakaya, and Neotaberna Santerra are also excellent options. Between bites, stroll down Calle Fuencarral, the district’s busiest street, to peruse shops selling everything from books to clothes and cosmetics.

One benefit of basing in Chamberí is that it has hotels for every budget. If you want to treat yourself, you can’t go wrong with the Santo Mauro, a Luxury Collection Hotel or the InterContinental Madrid. For a more affordable but equally memorable experience, the four-star NH Abascal provides plenty of comfort with a splash of sophistication.

Lavapiés — for the culture hounds

Lavapiés. Photo: MADRID DESTINO

Centrally located north of the Atocha train station, Lavapiés is one of Madrid’s most multicultural neighborhoods. It was once a working-class quarter whose steep, narrow streets lay outside the walled town during the Middle Ages. Over time, the area attracted immigrants from all over the world and established itself as a melting pot of cultures and traditions.

These days, the neighborhood is dotted with tea houses, restaurants, and cafes serving a variety of international food, from Middle Eastern cuisine to African and South Asian fare. One of Madrid’s finest gourmet markets that’s yet to be discovered by most tourists is also located in Lavapiés. It’s called Antón Martín, and it’s a great place to graze from different global food stalls and sip drinks from old-timey bars. Doppelgänger Bar, located on the first floor of the market, is always a hit with its fusion of Spanish, Asian, and Latin American small bites. Tapas lovers would do well to head to Argumosa Street, as well as the area surrounding Plaza Lavapiés.

It’s not just a robust food scene that makes Lavapiés lively. Wander the neighborhood’s streets, and you’re likely to stumble on newly opened art galleries and live music or dance performances. Lavapiés is also home to the famous Reina Sofía Museum, where you can see major works by artists like Miró, Picasso, and Dalí year-round. And hip visitors will appreciate the area’s newer accommodations. Take CoolRooms Palacio de Atocha, which earned a Michelin Key designation for its excellence among hotels. Its 35 modern suites are spacious and filled with light, some offering private terraces with fantastic city views.

There’s no wrong way to experience a city as dynamic as Madrid. But if you take the time to get to know its less-trafficked neighborhoods, you’ll quickly realize it’s one city you’ll want to keep exploring for the rest of your life.

For more help planning your visit, check out VisitMadridGPT, Madrid’s AI-based virtual assistant which will provide you with all sorts of tailored recommendations, and visit the links below:
https://www.esmadrid.com/en/if-life-were-a-city-it-would-be-Madrid
https://www.instagram.com/visita_madrid/
https://www.facebook.com/visitamadridoficial

Freight Trains Caused the Equivalent of 1.5 Years of Delay to Amtrak Trains in 2023 Alone

This summer, as I was on an epic rail trip through France, Belgium, and Germany, I had to deal with some train delays. On the 4.5-hour ride from Cologne to Berlin, we were 15 minutes late and I was fuming. I had a tight connection and knew that would have to dash across Berlin’s central station to catch my next train. Luckily, my connecting ride was also late, by 10 minutes, so I made it with plenty of time.

Delayed trains is a very common occurrence these days in Germany, and because of the lack of punctuality, the Deutsche Bahn, Germany’s national railway operator, is even referred to as a “national embarrassment“. But if the Deutsche Bahn’s punctuality performance statistics for 2023 are correct, there’s very little to be embarrassed about: on average, 90.1 percent of the rail traffic is on time.

One thing is for sure: Compared to Amtrak’s records, Deutsche Bahn is a role model for punctuality. In 2023, all 15 of Amtrak’s long-distance routes, and 15 of the 25 state-supported routes, failed to meet the Federal Railroad Administration’s punctuality standard. That means that only nine of the 40 Amtrak routes were able to get 80 percent or more of their customers to their destinations within 15 minutes of the scheduled time.

In 2023, the routes the most affected by delays were the California Zephyr (Chicago-San Francisco), the Southwest Chief (Chicago-Los Angeles), and the Sunset Limited (New Orleans-Los Angeles), all long-distance journeys. Only 33 percent of the passengers on the California Zephyr got to their destinations on time, 34 percent of the passengers on the Southwest Chief, and 44 percent of the passengers on the Sunset Limited.

While there are many reasons why Amtrak trains are delayed, including weather, track maintenance, and mechanical issues, the most common of all of them is freight train interference.

Freight train interference is a big thorn in Amtrak’s side

Far from being responsible for freight train interference, Amtrak is a victim. Freight trains, which are slower than Amtrak’s trains, are required by federal law to give priority to passenger trains, but freight railroads, who own and maintain most the tracks used by Amtrak outside of the Northeastern Corridor, entirely disregard the rule. By prioritizing freight trains on their own tracks, freight railroads create major delays for Amtrak. In 2023 alone, freight trains getting in the way of Amtrak trains caused a total delay of 900,000 minutes, the equivalent of 1.5 years.

Because most of the railways tracks in the Northeastern Corridor are owned and maintained by Amtrak, the routes operating on those tracks are more punctual. The Keystone route (New York-Harrisburg) was the most punctual of all the Amtrak routes in 2023 with 94 percent of the passengers getting to their destination on time.

To get the freight railroads to abide to the law, Amtrak asks of its customers that they reach out to their members of Congress and complain about the issue so that legislation is finally enforced.

Amtrak’s communication and compensation for delays

To keep its customer apprised of schedule changes or cancelations, Amtrak sends email and text updates, displays delays on screens and makes announcements in train stations and onboard trains. When cancelations and significant delays happen, Amtrak customer service members reach out directly to passengers to provide accommodation and compensation in the forms of refunds, vouchers, or rewards points. Passengers can also reach Amtrak directly by texting 268725 (AMTRAK) or calling 1-800-USA RAIL (1-800-872-7245).

More like thisTrain TravelHow an Amtrak Trip From Seattle to Erie, PA, Changed My Life

I Practiced German on Duolingo for 2 Months for a 7-Day Trip. Was It Worth It?

I don’t want to brag, but have a knack for learning languages. At least, I used to. I grew up in France in a French-speaking family and attended a French-speaking school, yet I could speak both English and Spanish nearly fluently by the age of 19. All I did was work hard in class, practice at home alone a few hours every week, and somehow that was enough to get me to a near-proficient level.

Emboldened by my abilities, I decided to drop Spanish lessons in my second year of college and replace them with Russian night classes. I had an upcoming train trip from Paris to St. Petersburg in the works and decided it was a good idea to learn the Cyrillic alphabet, as well as the basics of greetings, counting, etc. before I spent six days on board a Russian train and two weeks in Russia. While it was a decent idea, two semesters of classes weren’t nearly enough, and I spent more time than I’d like to admit pointing and gesturing to make myself understood while in Russia. Nearly 20 years later, I can still decipher a few things, but most of the Russian I had is gone. And so is the Spanish I so carelessly let go of.

I never stopped working on my English, however. I studied English language throughout college, went off to live and work in Ireland for several years, completed a Masters Degree in Translation, and have been living in Canada for 15 years. English comes just as easily to me as French now.

While I always tend to learn some phrases in the local language of the places I travel to, whether that’s Corfu, Rome, or Istanbul, until this past spring, I had never actually started an intense language course since my early 20s. When I was invited to spend a week on the island of Rügen in Germany, I decided it was time to get serious. I downloaded Duolingo on my phone and went to work.

Photo: Morgane Croissant / Duolingo

I started as a true beginner: I knew fewer than five words in German. I set myself a goal of practicing 15 minutes every day. And let me tell you: It’s harder than you think to stick to language-learning goals when using Duolingo.

While for the first 20 days the app’s smart gamification of the language-learning process made me eager to meet my goal, it quickly became a chore. Not because I was lazy or because the lessons were difficult, but because the free version of the app is extremely irritating.

While many users find the notifications reminding them to practice to be relentless, It’s the ads that got me. After every lesson, a 20-second ad, which I had to watch to continue learning, would pop up. Most of the time they were advertisements for mobile games, but there were also ads for local construction companies or for ridiculous fitness apps promising to help with belly fat. All those ads were always cleverly followed by Duolingo’s own 20-second plug for Super Duolingo, a premium version of the app that promises no ads so you can “learn without interruptions”. See what they did there?

Photo: Morgane Croissant / Duolingo

Beside the promise of no ads, Super Duolingo has another big advantage: No matter the number of mistakes you make, you can keep the lesson going. By contrast, the free version blocks you for around five hours if you use up all your hearts by making too many errors. And if you wait until late at night to start your 15-minute practice and use up all your hearts, you’re well and truly cooked. You can wave goodbye to that streak of yours.

I’m not cheap, but I’m stubborn and I don’t like being manipulated into spending money so I refused to sign up for the premium version. To entice me, the app let me try Super Duolingo for a few days and I have to say, it was a much more pleasant experience, but I was still not ready to pay for the upgrade.

Every time I completed a lesson the ad kept urging me to sign up, enter my credit card numbers, and get Super Duolingo for two weeks for free, but I resisted. I was especially put out by the fact that the monthly price for Super Duolingo wasn’t displayed anywhere: not on their website and not in the ads they bombarded me with. (by doing research online I learnt that it is $6.99 per month.)

Photo: Duolingo

In the end, I continued to use the free app and managed a 70-day streak, i.e. over two full months of daily practice, before my trip. I had just started learning how to count to 10 in German when I boarded the train bound for Deutschland. Something told me I was going to struggle.

And struggled I did. While most of time context helped my understanding of what was said to me and I always tried to answer in German, the most important phrase in my arsenal quickly became: Ich spreche kein Deutsch, sprechen sie Englisch? (I don’t speak German, do you speak English?). Of course, the Germans, whose reputation for speaking very good English precedes them, obliged kindly.

Despite the difficulties, I was able to use some of the vocabulary and pronunciation I had learned from the app in multiple situations, including at the bakery, on the train, and at the hotel, but I could not handle any further questions or details asked of me. I could order salad but I could not ask for a specific dressing, I could ask for water or the bill at a restaurant but I did not know how to say I didn’t want the sparkling kind or request to pay with cash.

70 days of language practice isn’t enough to get you through even a short and simple visit. I might have been more motivated to practice more had I signed up for Super Duolingo, but even then, I would likely have needed more time — five to six months to my estimation. My experience with Russian showed me that 20 years ago but apparently my inflated sense of self constantly takes over.

Learning a language from scratch is always worth the effort. If anything, it works as brain gymnastics. But even if you speak several languages already and are very confident about your abilities, you should never leave it to the last minute. Unless you want to be humbled real fast.

More like thisLanguagesDoes Duolingo Actually Work? I Went to Belgium After a 90-Day Lesson Streak to Find Out

10 Travel Apps Matador’s Editors Actually Use

There’s no shortage of travel apps out there. Some are hyper-specific to certain tasks, others are common. It can be hard to imagine even short trips without apps that have become standard tools, like Google or Apple Maps and Google Translate. A new crop of AI-enabled tools, like Matador Network’s GuideGeek, are poised to once again change the travel landscape.

Out of the many travel apps out there, a handful stand out as the ones the well-traveled Matador team turn to again and again. These are the travel apps our editors put their trust in on the road, in the air, and on adventures close to home.

onX

Screenshots: onX

onX is disrupting the GPS mapping app market with a product that is better looking, has better technology, and is much more user-first than anything else out there. Beyond its basic routing and tracking abilities, onX has drastically upped backcountry safety and strategy for trip planning through new layers in its apps (one each for backcountry hiking and skiing, off-roading, and hunting). This summer, the app debuted Wildfire layers, which shows the location of current fires in the area and provides basic info about them. In winter, onX has an equally useful avalanche predictability layer that shows potential trigger points based not just on current conditions but on factors like slope angle and aspect, elevation, and terrain traps. The layer goes so far as to show how big and far-reaching an avalanche in a given location is likely to be, and provides info on routing around likely trigger points. It has tools specific to hikers, mountain bikers, hunters, overlanders, and skiers – all available with a simple $34.99 Premium annual subscription or $99.99 Elite annual subscription. No app, service, or educational tool provides more up-to-the-moment safety info for backcountry skiers and snowboarders. — Tim Wenger, Transactional Content Editor

Try onxFlighty

Screenshots: Flighty

Being based in Denver in a United Airlines hub, I deeply appreciate the award-winning United App that provides all the information I need in a timely and reliable manner. But I can’t always fly United with a job that requires frequent travel. I tested out Flightly on a few recent trips, and it brings the same functionality of United’s app to every other airline. Plane updates, gate changes, time estimates, and more are pushed straight to my phone with Flighty. It predicts delays and sends them immediately. I particularly appreciate the taxi, takeoff, and landing time information as someone who sees the time in the air and somehow always discounts how long those on-the-ground tasks take. It’s a boon for people who obsessively track the plane for their flight so they know exactly what to expect, and unlike your standard delay notification, Flighty also can usually list why the delay is occurring so you can plan accordingly. It’s more trustworthy than the repeated gate announcements that boarding will be delayed another 15 minutes every half hour. Best of all? It’s universal, covering all worldwide airlines every day of the year. — Nickolaus Hines, Managing Editor

Try FlightyOmio and Busbud

Screenshots: Omio and Busbud

I’m a big advocate for bus travel. As excited as some people get about hopping trains in foreign places, especially for longer or intercountry trips, I’ll almost always see if I can get where I want to go by bus first (for a number of reasons I’ve written about before). Omio has always been my go-to for finding and booking bus tickets in Europe (although the platform also covers the US and Canada, as well as trains, ferries, and flights). It’s a particularly great option when you want to compare different modes of travel on longer routes. Say you want to get from Barcelona to Paris — you can easily see whether it’s more time and cost effective to book a budget airline, hop on a train, or take a bus. Busbud focuses primarily on intercity bus and train travel but has a broader global reach, with bus and train options in North and South America, Europe, Africa, and Southeast Asia. Both platforms are reliable, comprehensive, and straightforward to use. — Alex Bresler, Editor

Try Omio

Try BusbudXe

Screenshots: Xe

Theoretically speaking, it’s not too tall a task to memorize the conversion rate for whatever currency is used where you’re traveling and then do some simple equations to figure out the cost of things abroad. Practically speaking, I’m terrible at math and it takes me far too long to accurately come to the correct number — especially when bargaining for something or making a quick purchasing decision. Xe does all the hard work for me. The app quickly makes real-time currency conversions for whatever number you put in for currencies around the world. I always have it up on my phone for quick access when I’m traveling, so I always know what I’m paying for something. It’s also helpful when budgeting out what the costs for a trip will be outside of the pre-booked things like accommodations. The only downside is that it requires an internet connection, though the right phone plan fixes that. — Nickolaus Hines, Managing Editor

Try XeAiralo

Screenshots: Airalo

I’ve used Airalo, an eSIM marketplace, as a digital alternative to physical SIM cards since before my latest iPhone deleted the SIM card tray altogether. It’s simple: You just use the Airalo app or website on your smartphone to select the eSIM that makes the most sense for the country or region you’re visiting, pick the amount of data you expect to use given the duration of your trip, and follow the installation and activation guide. As something of a tech luddite, I appreciate the step-by-step, user-friendly instructions, complete with graphics to make the eSIM setup a breeze. I’ve used Airalo across Europe (both for shorter trips to specific countries and longer multi-country trips) and parts of Asia, always with affordable, fast, and reliable service. Best of all, you can top up your plan as you go and even get credits (Airmoney) when you refer friends (many of mine are now dedicated Airalo users, too). — Alex Bresler, Editor

Try AiraloFlush

Screenshots: Flush

The answer to nature’s call used to be easy in any city I went to: Go to a bar, because anywhere that serves alcohol probably also has a toilet. It was trickier when traveling with people who weren’t as open to throwing one back for the sake of a bathroom, and then trickier still when I had a kid who couldn’t enter said bars. Few, if any, travelers want to actively think about bathroom stops, but they’re a necessary consideration for any trip — particularly when the trip involves spending long days out and about. Flush simplifies it all by showing every public restroom near you. It has helped me with family trips in France and Italy, urgent pit stop requests in hometowns, and late-night adventures. The bathroom locations listed vary, but are all public. Sometimes the nearest option is a Starbucks or a gas station, other times its a park. There are even semi-permanent porta potties on there. And it’s all connected to maps so it’s easy to find the closest walking directions directly to the John. — Nickolaus Hines, Managing Editor

Try FlushWise

Screenshots: Wise

Wise looks like a bank, but is a “Money Services Business.” I have used it for more than three years for global money transfers, among other things. One can hold balances in 40-plus currencies and send transfers to bank accounts in a large number of countries with much smaller fees than traditional banks. In my case, it allowed me to receive payments from the US while I was living as a digital nomad in different countries, as well as to transfer money to friends and pay for goods and services in places such as Brazil, Mexico, Australia, and Spain. In the case of friends and family who were also using Wise, or if I was transferring from a balance to a bank account in the same currency, usually I paid minimal fees or no fees at all for the transfer. For example, if you send 1,000 euros from your own balance in euros to an account in euros, you only pay 0.95 cents as a fee (try the fee calculator). The exchange rate is excellent (much better than the exchange rate I get from traditional banks) and one can also get a Wise debit card to use around the world. — Deb GC, SEO Editor

Try WiseTripIt

Screenshots: TripIt

I’ve used TripIt to build travel itineraries since 2015. Each time I book a hotel, restaurant reservation, flight, or anything else, I forward the confirmation email to the app’s automated email service and it adds it to my itinerary without any effort from me. Entire trips come together with an easy-to-follow timeline and I love having all confirmation numbers, addresses, and contact points for a trip nicely organized in one place. The app also tracks travel stats, and it’s cool to see how many cities or countries I’ve visited over time and how many miles I’ve traveled. There’s a free version as well as a paid version that adds benefits like airport maps, notifications of flight changes, and other helpful perks. — Tim Wenger, Transactional Content Editor

Try TripItPlantID

Screenshots: PlantID

PlantID, as well as similar apps like Picture This and Pl@ntNet, are easy to use for plant identification while outdoors and/or traveling. All you need to do is upload one or multiple images of the plant, mushroom, or lichen you want to identify, and the app will give you the best estimates using image recognition technologies. The information you get contains the common name, a short description, and the scientific classification. It can be useful to spot poisonous plants, for example, but bear in mind that although the artificial intelligence models are improving all the time, the results are not 100 percent accurate. Accuracy depends on the plants being in the database of the app, and image recognition working properly. Additionally, if you are house sitting and you need to figure out what’s wrong with one of the plants, these apps can help you as well through their Plant Health Assessment options (though some of that info is only offered under the paid plans). With the free version of PlantID, you can identify 10 plants per month maximum. — Deb GC, SEO Editor

Try PlandIDMore like thisTry GuideGeek, a Free and Reliable AI Travel Planner

Best national parks to visit

In fall, there’s no better place to enjoy leaf peeping than one of our 62 national parks. While some parks light up in winter and others bloom in full each spring, these 11 national parks are ideal for an autumn visit. The once-green trees and shrubs burst into a kaleidoscope of colors, ranging from fiery reds and oranges to golden yellows and deep purples. The colors are bright, the crowds are light, and if you make it to two you’re doing it right. These are the best national parks to visit in the fall.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park — Tennessee and North Carolina

Photo: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the United States’ most visited for a reason: mist-covered mountains, hiking trails flanked by waterfalls, and stunning vistas everywhere you look. Fall is an ideal time to visit, as the park’s sublime annual rendition of yellows, reds, and greens stretch from the park’s low point at Newfound Gap nearly to its 6,643-foot-high summit at Clingman’s Dome. If you’ve never taken a guided canopy tour, now is the time to do so, as you’ll soar above the colors to take in a view that few get to see from such an angle. One hazard does present itself: being so wowed by the spectrum of colors below you that you forget to monitor the approaching zip line station. Try your best to not forget to slow down.

Death Valley National Park — California

Photo: VIKVAD/Shutterstock

Death Valley National Park is the perfect destination for those out west getting a late start on their autumn road trip. The best time to visit is November, when the triple-digit temperatures are gone and the Oasis at Death Valley is open for the season. Death Valley runs on an opposite schedule to most national parks as its busy season is winter. By visiting before the holiday rush, you can hike Badwater Salt Flat or Golden Canyon without a snakeline of people. Book a spot at one of the park’s campgrounds in advance and plan to wake up early; there’s nothing like waking up to watch the sunrise above Badwater Basin.

Zion National Park — Utah

Photo: Bill45/Shutterstock

Zion National Park, a breathtaking landscape of sandstone cliffs and canyons, undergoes a remarkable transformation during autumn. As the temperatures cool and the days shorten, the park bursts into a kaleidoscope of colors. Make a B-line for the Virgin River. As the leaves of the cottonwood, ash, and maple trees begin to change color, they paint the riverbanks in hues of golden yellow, burnt orange, and deep crimson. You can also hike through the Narrows, a slot canyon best explored during the cooler months, or take a scenic drive along the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway. The best time to witness the peak foliage here is from late October to early November.

Acadia National Park — Maine

Photo: Skyler Ewing/Shutterstock

Nowhere tops New England for fall foliage. Acadia National Park is the epitome of why, as birch, maple, hemlock, and both red and white spruce bloom with the changing season all within an approachable confined area covering 47,000 acres. Add deep blues of the surrounding Atlantic waters and you have the perfect recipe for a scenic hike. The foliage tends to peak in October, but the park is gorgeous even once most of the leaves have fallen. After a day of hiking and exploring the park you’re bound to be hungry. That’s a good thing because fall is also prime season for fresh-caught seafood along the New England coast. You’ll see the boats out on the water from the early morning, and when the sun begins to set over Cadillac Mountain, the catch is ready at the restaurants of nearby Bar Harbor. Plan your entire trip from start to finish with Matador’s travel guide to Acadia National Park.

Traveling to a national park? Check out Matador’s national park accommodations guides: These Airbnbs in Acadia National Park Surround You With Natural Beauty The Best Places to Stay in and Around Zion National Park The 17 Best Airbnbs Near Yosemite National Park 8 Unique Airbnbs by Grand Canyon National Park These Yellowstone Airbnbs Near Each Entrance Make for the Perfect Gateways to the Park These Stunning Zion National Park Airbnbs Make the Perfect Desert Basecamp Take a Fun Escape Into Nature at These Airbnbs Near Glacier National Park

Arches National Park — Utah

Photo: ORCHID LADY/Shutterstock

At Arches National Park, you’ll find the world’s largest collection of intact red sandstone arches — more than 2,000 of them. And while they’re just as beautiful in summer, there is one major perk to visiting the park post-September: it’s much less hot. Summer temperatures in the park routinely hid the upper-nineties or above. In fall, the average temperature drops starkly to 85 degrees in September and 71 degrees in October. Hiking out into Devil’s Garden is much more tempting without the prospect of having to lug gallons of water along with you. And though Moab and its surrounding canyon country is busy in the fall, the visitors are of a different stripe than the summertime crowd. You’ll find plenty of mountain bikers, off-roaders, and backpackers, but far fewer people crowding into the national parks.

Rocky Mountain National Park — Colorado

Photo: SNEHIT PHOTO/Shutterstock

One of the most spectacular places to witness the fall foliage in Rocky Mountain National Park is along Trail Ridge Road, North America’s highest continuous paved road. As you ascend, you’ll be greeted by stunning vistas of aspens, cottonwoods, and other deciduous trees ablaze with shades of yellow, orange, and red. The contrast between the colorful foliage and the snow-capped peaks of the surrounding mountains is simply breathtaking. The best time to visit to experience the peak fall colors is from late September to early October. The temperatures are mild and comfortable during this time, making it ideal for hiking, camping, and exploring the park’s many trails.

Grand Teton National Park — Wyoming

Photo: Danita Delimont/Shutterstock

Fall in Grand Teton National Park is magical. The bright green leaves of the aspens begin to turn vibrant shades of yellow, creating a stunning contrast against the Teton Range. The park’s meadows and forests are also adorned with other colorful foliage, including cottonwoods, maples, and birches. Fall is also a migration time for many of the park’s animals. Bison, pronghorn, and elk begin moving south to their winter grounds, following the paths their ancestors took thousands of years ago. The annual pronghorn migration is particularly impressive as they gather in large groups to head south to their winter homes near Pinedale, Wyoming. This 150-mile migration is the second longest land migration in the Western Hemisphere.

Indiana Dunes National Park — Indiana

Photo: Shelly Bychowski Shots/Shutterstock

The newest national park is a fantastic spot for an autumn weekend road trip in the Midwest, most notably for one specific activity: geocaching. For those unfamiliar, geocaching consists of using an app or a GPS device to locate a predetermined, hidden item or a location based on its coordinates. What better place to do this than amongst a 17,000-acre park full of sand? The park has numerous geocaching spots, most notably the Mount Baldy Beach Trail. Check out the park’s geocaching page for the full rundown of where to try this real-life hide and seek activity and how to make the most of it. Other activities at the park include hiking across the dunes themselves, chilling on the beach as the gentle waves of Lake Michigan lap the shore, and counting how many of the 1,100 native plant species you can identify within the park’s grounds. If you arrive before November 1 and wish to stay the night, the Dunewood Campground is open for reservations.

Shenandoah National Park — Virginia

Photo: Anton Foltin/Shutterstock

Shenandoah National Park is best in late September and early October, when the summer campers have vacated the campgrounds but it’s not yet too cold for an overnight stay. Overnight at the Big Meadows Campground and, in the morning, cruise the 105 miles of Skyline Drive, taking in the autumn colors. If you feel motivated, hop out occasionally to set foot on the adjacent hiking trails and get more up close with the forested Blue Ridge Mountains. If you’re up for a challenge, walk the Bearfence Mountain Trail, across its scramble to the rocky overlook out across the park. Though it’s only a bit over a mile, the scramble necessitates good hiking shoes. You’ll be rewarded with stunning views of, well, mostly trees blanketing undulating hills. But in autumn, that’s enough to take your breath away.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park — Ohio

Photo: thanasarn/Shutterstock

The peak of autumn foliage in Cuyahoga Valley National Park occurs around the third week of October. Sugar and red maples are often the first to display spectacular reds, yellows, and oranges, followed by white and pin oaks, which turn a brownish red. Black gum, dogwood, and northern red oak also turn various shades of red, while tulip trees, bigtooth aspens, silver maples, and black maples change to yellow. The Oak Hill Trail, Brandywine Falls and Gorge Trail, Ledges area trails, and Everett Covered Bridge are popular destinations for leaf peeping. If you’re planning a photography trip, keep in mind that warm, sunny days and cool, frost-free nights are ideal for producing the most vivid colors, while cloudy days and excessive rainfall can dull them.

Mammoth Cave National Park — Kentucky

Photo: TravelEatShoot/Shutterstock

Mammoth Cave National Park is unique in that there is no access gate at the front of the park. It’s always open, and always a great place to take the kids. Here, the Green and Nolin rivers converge to offer engaging canoe and kayak runs through the park along with fishing and backcountry and campground camping (with a permit or reservation). But the main attraction is the Mammoth-Flint Ridge Cave System itself, part of which is encompassed by the park. This is the world’s longest known cave system, and has been inhabited by Native Americans for more than 6,000 years. Fall is a popular time to visit the park as the surface temperature inside the cave cools a bit, reaching as low as 54 degrees deep inside. Your best bet to guarantee entry into the cave is to make a reservation with the park in advance. If possible, take the Frozen Niagara Cave Tour, where the colors inside the cave are eerily similar to those outside.

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The TSA Released Its 2024 Travel Tips, and There’s One You Should Really Start Following

With more than 17 million travelers expected to fly over Labor Day, TSA has issued a handy list of tips to help you streamline the screening process and minimize delays. Here are the top 10 things you can do to navigate security quickly.

1. Start with an empty bag

One of the most fundamental tips is to pack smartly and start with an empty bag. In June, Matador reported on the horror story of US tourist Ryan Watson, who was charged with taking ammunition to Turks and Caicos after not emptying his bag from a previous trip. Watson was threatened with 12 years in jail, but luckily, he was given a fine.

Although this might seem like an extreme case, the news has been flooded with similar incidents this year. To avoid this, TSA says that packing an empty bag makes you less likely to inadvertently include prohibited items.

The TSA has a comprehensive list of things not allowed in carry-on or checked baggage. These items include weapons, explosives, flammable substances, and certain liquids and gels. By starting with a clean slate, you can more effectively review the contents of your bag and ensure that nothing is amiss. For a full list of prohibited items, visit TSA’s “What Can I Bring?” page.

Packing smartly can also help speed up the screening process. By organizing your belongings, you can make it easier for TSA officers to inspect your bag. Consider packing all of your electronics in a single compartment so they can be easily removed for screening. Similarly, grouping your toiletries together can help expedite checking liquids and gels.

2. Arrive early

Another crucial tip is to arrive at the airport early. This allows ample time to complete check-in, drop off luggage, and navigate to your gate. The TSA recommends arriving at least two hours before domestic and three hours before international flights.

3. Carry a valid ID

TSA requires all passengers to present a valid government-issued photo ID, such as a driver’s license or passport. Ensure that your identification is up-to-date and easily accessible.

4. If carrying a firearm, know the procedures

In 2023, the TSA seized 6,737 firearms at airport security checkpoints. The TSA reports around 93 percent of these weapons were loaded. If you’re traveling with firearms, following specific procedures is imperative. Firearms must be declared to the airline and transported in accordance with federal regulations. Contact your airline for detailed instructions on how to transport firearms properly.

5. Be aware of the latest checkpoint screening technology

The TSA continually updates its screening procedures and equipment. Stay informed about the latest advancements to avoid any surprises at the security checkpoint.

6. Consider enrolling in TSA PreCheck

This expedited screening program allows eligible travelers to enjoy faster security lines by bypassing certain screening procedures. TSA PreCheck members (low-risk travelers) typically need not remove their shoes, 3-1-1 liquids, belts, light jackets, or laptops for screening.

7. If you require additional assistance or have special needs, contact the TSA ahead of time

The agency offers various services to accommodate passengers with disabilities or other special requirements. By contacting the TSA in advance, you can make appropriate arrangements to meet your needs.

8. Communicate effectively with TSA officers and have patience

If you have any questions or concerns, don’t hesitate to ask, says TSA. TSA officers are there to assist you and ensure a safe and secure travel experience.

9. You can ask questions in advance by text, Facebook Messenger, or X

If you have a burning question, the TSA is available via text at 275-872 (“AskTSA”), @AskTSA on X, or via Facebook Messenger. This will put you through to a virtual assistant, or you can call 866-289-9673 to talk to a person.

10. Be aware of your surroundings throughout the security process

By observing the area and reporting any suspicious activity, you can play a crucial role in maintaining a safe and secure environment for all passengers. Don’t hesitate to alert a TSA officer or airport personnel if you notice anything unusual or concerning. Your awareness and prompt action can help prevent potential threats and ensure a safe and enjoyable travel experience for all.

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Inside Italy’s ‘Paradice Music,’ the All-Ice, Sub-Zero Concerts in a Glacial Igloo

After a day on the slopes of the Italian Dolomites, I like to spend the evening one of two different ways: Either hunkered down in a warm and vibrant bar sipping on a bombardino (a delicious concoction akin to warmed eggnog, cream, and way too much brandy), or resting my tired feet with a bowl of fresh pasta, a warm blanket, and some mind-numbing TV. Preferably, I’d do either of those while drifts of white snow dust the landscape outside, holding the promise of fresh powder come morning.

But when skiing in Pontedilegno-Tonale, an area known for its expansive and tree-free beginner area, towering Presena Glacier, and expert-level trails, there’s a third option for evening entertainment: enter the Paradice Music Festival. It’s a series of classical and contemporary concerts held on select evenings every winter.

 

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Imagine venturing up a gondola to a staggering 2,600 meters above sea level, where a snow-covered glacier extends above the clouds. There, as the sun sets on snow-capped peaks, you see an inconspicuous mound of white snow, revealing a single wooden door. Step through it, and you’ll realize it’s actually a shimmering glass igloo, arranged like an amphitheater. As you settle into your seat – essentially, an ice bench with a couple of cushions — you’ll start to look around, and it’s then that you notice the showstopper: every single instrument, from the drum kit to the cello, guitar, and everything in-between, is made from ice. There are ice horns, ice ukuleles, and even a frozen didgeridoo.

The ParadIce Music ice concerts are some of the most unique in the world, enough to melt even the iciest of skeptics’ hearts.

How the sub-zero Paradice music ice concerts came to be

I was lucky enough to experience one of the ParadIce Music concerts when the band played a tribute to Queen. It was one of two dozen 2023-2024 winter season concerts, which have become a celebrated tradition in the tiny town of Passo del Tonale, in the Italian Dolomites. Born from a desire to showcase the region’s stunning natural beauty while also highlighting local musicians, these concerts have evolved into something truly special. Each year, the concerts draw both international tourists and international musicians, though the standing house band is immensely talented even without any well-known frontman or woman.

The seed was planted for the Paradice Music festival in 2017, when American artist Tim Linhart built an ice cello on the glacier. Remarkably, the cello then traveled across Italy to top theaters, played by famed Italian composer and cellist Giovanni Sollima. After its final concert in Sicily, it was melted in a grand fashion in the Mediterranean Sea. The experience made Linhart want to return in 2018 to build a 200-seat ice theater — which he did, along with ice instruments, with assistance from artists in nearby villages. That was the first year of the Paradice Music concerts. Now, they take place annually, with local artists giving new life to the instruments, the ice igloo, and the events every winter.

About the ice concerts

Photo: Vale di Sole/Tommaso Prugnola/PontediLegno-Tonale

Paradice Music’s igloo venue is crafted from scratch each year, so concerts happen only during cold winter months, from January to March. Concerts are usually twice a week on Thursday and Saturday evenings, with a complete schedule of events typically published on the Ponte di Legno-Tonale website at the beginning of the ski season. Usually, one evening will be a Paradice orchestra tribute show, as with my Queen-inspired concert, while the other hosts a guest artist.

This past season’s lineup included diverse talent, from regional folk music to well-known Italian opera singers, local classical composers, and tributes to famous British artists like the Beatles or Queen. Paradice Music concerts in 2024-2025 will include a tribute to Seattle’s grunge scene (so get ready for some Nirvana) and an Irish folk band, among other unique picks.

Ticket prices vary depending on each event and the artists involved, ranging from 30 to 50 euros ($33-$55), with discounted kids tickets. You’ll also need to purchase the gondola ticket (12 euros, or $13) if you don’t have a ski pass. You can buy day-of concert tickets at the bottom of the gondola, but the intimate setting means you should book your tickets in advance to ensure a seat, especially for popular performances. Online sales close 48 hours before each concert.

The ride to the concerts takes about seven minutes via the Paradiso Gondola, or cable car. Photo: COLOMBO NICOLA/Shutterstock

Ponte di Legno-Tonale is accessible by car from major cities like Milan (2 hours, 45 minutes) or Verona (2 hours, 30 minutes), and the scenic drive through the Dolomites adds to the adventure. The drive can be much slower during winter snowstorms, but there’s plenty of free parking at the base of the Paradiso gondola, even if you arrive a little late. Public transport to the region is limited.

However, I recommend extending your trip by a few days to enjoy the magnificent ski area. The entire area is called Pontedilegno-Tonale, with four distinct areas within that. Together, they have 15 miles of beginner slopes (blue), 38 miles of red (intermediate), and nine black, or expert-level, slopes. All are directly available from the town of Passo del Tonale, at the base of the Paradiso gondola, which carries you to the concerts. It’s a relatively small resort as far as European ski resorts go, but it has plenty to fill a few days of activity, including night skiing four days per week. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in Passo del Tonale.

Tips for attending the Paradice music festival

Photo: Vale di Sole/PontediLegno-Tonale

Though the ambiance is enchanting, the temperatures are chilly – you’re on a glacier, after all. It’s often snowing at altitude, and you’ll need to wait outside after exiting the gondola until the igloo doors open 15 minutes before the concert. Once you’re inside the igloo, it’s still an icy affair, and ice melts above 32 degrees Fahrenheit – so any heaters or fires would spoil the show.

It’s strongly recommended that you dress in warm ski clothing, including your ski pants and jackets, insulated boots, gloves, and a beanie to ensure you stay comfortable throughout the evening. An insulated down jacket under a ski shell would help. You can expect the musicians to be donning their winter base layers and thick beanies and jackets – completely different stage attire from the formal wear they’re likely used to.

It’s also best to arrive as early as possible. Concerts typically start at 6 PM, and having a ticket means you can jump on the gondola beginning at 5:30 PM. Taking the earliest possible gondola will put you at the front of the entrance line, and while that does mean more time standing outside in the cold, it also means you’ll be able to grab a spot near the front as seating is first-come, first-served. Sitting near the front lets you see the impressive ice instruments up close. That said, the igloo is relatively small, so you’ll still have good views from the last row. Usually, the musicians hang around for a few minutes after the concert so guests can see the ice instruments in person, even if they’re among the last to claim a seat.

Concert-goers can take a close look at the ice instruments in person before and after the show. Photo: Janine Avery

The restaurants at the top of the gondola are typically closed by the time the concerts start, so don’t expect to find any drinks or snacks at the top. However, guests can bring insulated bottles, so feel free to carry hot tea or cocoa for the performance. On select nights, the restaurant and bar Passo Paradiso (which also has an ice hotel) at the top of the gondola opens after the concert, so you can enjoy a high-altitude, multi-course dinner if you’ve made an advanced reservation. But even if you don’t manage to book a table during one of those special evenings, the concerts are usually only around an hour long, so there’s plenty of time after for a late dinner (or a few of those delicious bombardini) just a few minutes away in Passo del Tonale.

Whether you’re a music enthusiast or simply seeking a memorable experience, the Paradice Music ice concerts will likely deliver. Attending one is such a unique and enchanting experience that, if you’re anything like me, you’ll think they’re just as impressive as the mountains themselves.

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This Mexican Resort Is a Culinary Haven With Organic Vineyards, Michelin Dining, and 24/7 Room Service

As a self-proclaimed wine lover and hotel aficionado, staying at a vineyard hotel has always been the pinnacle of my bucket list. When I envisioned where this experience would unfold, my thoughts drifted to Italy, Spain, or perhaps Portugal — Mexico, despite being my favorite country, didn’t cross my mind.

It wasn’t until I visited Baja California Sur last fall that I first heard of Valle de Guadalupe, the lush desert valley (an oxymoron, I know) just 90 miles south of San Diego that produces internationally recognized vintages and about 80 percent of Mexico’s wine.

This eclectic, relaxed region is home to El Cielo Resort & Winery, the dreamiest resort in the heart of Valle for foodies and wine lovers. When I was given the opportunity to visit, I was elated to check that off my bucket list, but the adventure was so much more magical than I could have imagined.

Villas overlooking the vineyards

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

As you arrive at El Cielo Resort & Winery, verdant vines and Tuscan-California-style villas emerge quickly alongside the dusty driveway peppered with olive trees. The entire resort is a semi-circle of these stunning 2,000-square-foot villas encapsulating vineyards, reservoirs, and beautiful gardens.

The property’s Master Suites feel like a sanctuary, for good reason, as they’re all over 1,000 square feet. And that’s not including the private patio and firepit, which are the perfect spots to savor a glass of wine as the sun dips behind the mountains each evening. The suites also have two full bathrooms (one with a massive jacuzzi), a full kitchen with a fridge (and, naturally, a wine fridge, too), an entire living room, and a dining table for eight accented by a gas fireplace.

The Junior Suites are smaller, but each has a balcony that gives you the best vantage point of the valley. Due to their size and amenities, the villas here are an incredible alternative to vacation rentals. Each villa has a Master Suite on the ground level and two Junior Suites on the second floor, meaning that each villa can accommodate at least 12 guests between the three rooms.

Tastings at El Cielo Resort & Winery

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

The winery resort is nestled among more than 70 acres of vineyards, which contribute to the production of chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, nebbiolo, and more. The El Cielo brand is responsible for over 30 different wine lines.

Now, 75 percent of the vineyards are certified organic, thanks to El Cielo’s falconry program. Instead of using chemicals or nets, the daily presence of falcons acts as a natural predatory system, keeping pests away in an eco-friendly and sustainable manner. While visiting, I met Cassiopeia, one of the falcons who helps with the program. Depending on the day, you may be able to meet one of the resident falcons, as well.

Photo: Sara Iannacone

While you can step outside your room and wander directly into rows of vines, the winery is a quick drive down the road. It’s within a walkable distance, but it’s also a bit dusty, so calling for transportation from your villa is more comfortable.

El Cielo Winery offers three unmissable experiences: a vineyard tour by golf cart or covered wagon, a blend-your-own wine session, and a wine and chocolate pairing. With expert sommeliers like Sebastian and Lusia guiding you, each activity is executed perfectly for both wine lovers and those who’ve never tasted wine before. While enjoying all three in one day is possible, I recommend spreading them out over two days to immerse yourself in the indulgent, relaxing atmosphere (and be able to taste more wine over multiple days).

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

Begin with the vineyard tour to gain a deep appreciation for the scale and intensity of the operation. Follow this with a tasting in the cava, or wine cellar, where you can savor El Cielo’s finest vintages. The wine and chocolate pairing, which you can enhance with virtual reality goggles or enjoy on its own, couples local chocolates from Venus Chocolates with El Cielo’s most beloved wines. My personal favorite was the cardamom chocolate with Capricornus wine. The spiced French barrels help bring out the spice in the chocolate, which is simply delicious.

Then, during the blend-your-own wine activity, you get to step into the role of a winemaker, basically a scientist, meticulously crafting your ideal blend from the day’s top varietals selected by the sommeliers. You get to bottle and name your wine. I named mine — a nebbiolo-tempranillo blend — La Buena Vida, or The Good Life. Because that’s what a trip to El Cielo feels like.

Once you’re done tasting, an attendant will call transportation for you right at the winery entrance to get back to the resort.

Dining at El Cielo Resort

Photo: Sara Iannacone

It’s not just about the wine at El Cielo. The property’s restaurant, Latitud 32, earned a mention in the 2024 Michelin Guide Mexico. Given the owner’s history in Yucatán and love for Baja, the restaurant serves a Yucatán-Baja fusion menu.

For lunch, order the clam chowder featuring fresh Pismo clams from San Quintín Bay. Visiting from New England, where we’re known for our creamy clam chowder, I have to admit, I was apprehensive to try it in Mexico. But I can confidently say it was the best clam chowder I’ve ever had, which was a trend at this restaurant. Every bite, every plate, was better than the last. But unlike traditional Mexican food — which is sometimes known for being fried and heavy, albeit delicious — every plate at Latitud 32 is light and fresh while maintaining traditional flavors.

Photo: Sara Iannacone

For dinner, the six-course tasting menu with wine pairings is the star of the show. The price is incredibly reasonable: $150 per person with the wine pairing or $87 per person without the pairing. My favorite dish (a hard choice to make) was the pork belly tacos on a blue corn tortilla with Copernicus 2020, El Cielo’s cabernet sauvignon-merlot blend.

The resort also has one additional on-site restaurant, Polaris, for breakfast, lunch, and 24/7 room service. There’s nothing quite as indulgent as ordering s’mores to your room to roast by the fire pit at night, waking up to tasty chilaquiles with salsa verde waiting for you at your door, or being welcomed by a cheeseburger after a long travel day — I know from experience.

If you dine at Polaris for breakfast or lunch, sit on the exterior deck overlooking the property. Not only are the views of the vineyards breathtaking, but you’ll also get hints of rosemary wafting across the patio because of all the plants they have growing on the property.

Things to do at El Cielo Resort

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

While the winery and Latitud 32 are the resort’s undeniable draw, the tranquility of the entire property invites you to slow down and savor the stillness. One perfect place to do this is by the pool, where you can call for a cocktail or a glass of Hypatia, El Cielos’s tastiest bubbly.

While the resort has plans to add a spa, for now, all spa services are private in-room experiences. Plan on enjoying a massage with Lorna Alvarado, a local massage therapist and energy healer. She recently earned recognition for being one of the top Swedish massage therapists in the world at the International Massage Association’s World Championship. While you can reserve once you arrive, I recommend booking in advance to ensure availability.

If you like to be active, the resort also has bikes that guests can borrow, a gym, and plenty of paths for walking and jogging around the vineyards and the central pond area.

Things to do in Valle de Guadalupe

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

According to the resort team, most guests stay at El Cielo for about four days. Once you spend one to two days exploring the property, use the resort as a jumping-off point to explore Valle de Guadalupe’s Ruta del Vinos, or wine route, along with the destination’s other eclectic offerings.

Since there are nearly 200 wineries on the route, it can be overwhelming to narrow them down. The succulent garden and views at Finca La Carrodilla will bring any plant lover immense joy. And, if you’re a fan of sparkling rosé, head to Decantos Vinicola. Lomas Travel can help you plan a day trip itinerary with vineyards chosen based on your unique preferences right at the concierge desk in the lobby.

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The area is one of Mexico’s next great foodie destinations, too. This year, three restaurants within 20 minutes of the resort were awarded Michelin stars: Animalón, Damiana, and Conchas de Piedra. Seven were also deemed Bib Gourmand, an award given by the Michelin Guide to restaurants that offer high-quality food at a good value.

If you want something non-food-related, there’s a brand-new, female-owned venture called Cacttus Hat Bar where you can design your very own vegan suede cowboy hat. Prices range from $164 to $223 for a fully decked-out, custom-branded hat with all the accessories you want to add. Cacttus welcomes walk-ins as well as reservations for larger groups. Just send them a message on Instagram.

When to visit Valle de Guadalupe

Photo: El Cielo Resort & Winery

Locals say the only month to avoid Valle is January. Since it’s peak rainy season, the dusty roads turn to mud. And since many of the area’s restaurants, vineyards, and activities are outdoors, it’s less enjoyable.

While all seasons are mild, there’s one season that beats the rest: La Vendimia, or harvest season. It typically runs from August to October, and all of the hotels and vineyards in the area host special events, especially for the first few weeks in August.

How to get to El Cielo Resort

Photo: Roaming Panda Photos/Shutterstock

Since Valle de Guadalupe is so close to the United States-Mexico border, many West Coasters drive. But, if you need to fly, you have two airport options: Tijuana International Airport (TIJ) or San Diego International Airport (SAN).

While flying into Tijuana is seemingly easier than crossing the border, finding a direct flight is tricky unless you come from a small handful of West Coast cities. Coming from New York, with delays, it ended up being a 17-hour travel day for me. That’s a bit rough when you’re only going for a long weekend.

Next time, I would fly directly to San Diego and cross into Tijuana airport via the Cross Border Xpress, an expedited pedestrian bridge. Arrange for a rental car or organize transportation through Lomas Travel in advance so you can travel to Valle easily upon arrival.

One thing to know is that Valle de Guadalupe isn’t walkable, and Uber isn’t available. So, the best option is to have a car or work with the resort to arrange transportation throughout your stay. El Cielo makes it incredibly simple and can have a van at your door in minutes to go anywhere in town. Plan to hitch a ride, especially if you don’t have a travel buddy who wants to be the designated driver while indulging in the fruitful bounty of Mexican wine country.

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Next Level Road Trips: Exploring the Colorado Mountains With Overland Expo’s Ultimate Build

I knew I found my limit when my truck got as close to sideways as I’ve even been outside of a rollercoaster. My wife and I, along with our toddler strapped into a carseat in the back, were about two-thirds of the way through a quick offroading trip on Switzerland Trail near Denver. The first part of the path has a technical rating of two out of 10 on the onX Offroad map. I’d taken a wrong turn somewhere and was halfway through Pennsylvania Gulch — a technical rating of seven, with an estimated completion time of one hour for the two miles.

Thankfully, I was in a do-it-all truck that made even the hairiest situation manageable with my minimal experience: a fully outfitted GMC Canyon AT4X.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines

My test drive was planned ahead of Overland Expo’s Mountain West event from August 23 through 25 in Loveland, Colorado. Overland Expo has four regional events throughout the year. These are the premier events for anyone interested in self-reliant travel to remote destinations your average traveler can’t easily reach.

Interest in overlanding spiked during the pandemic years as a way to get far away from people while still having everything needed right on your vehicle. Overland Expo attendance went from about 7,000 people annually in 2015 to more than 70,000 in recent years.

That said, it’s not exactly the easiest method of travel to jump into. The best vehicles are highly custom, and include everything from a wench for pulling through tough terrain to rooftop tents, built-in cooking gear, generators, solar panels, and even showers. Four-wheel drive and sturdy tires are a given. Experienced overlanders travel to remote locations around the world on paths that have rarely, if ever, been driven. Everyday overlanders reach places closer to home and some do so in stock vehicles. Yet a fully outfitted vehicle opens the door to so much more. Overland Expo is a place where both parties can find exactly what they need, as well as test out gear they didn’t yet know they need.

“While plenty of people hit the open road long-term during the pandemic, I think even more realized that they could get out to some beautiful and remote places and really enjoy their time there with their current truck or SUV with some additional equipment,” Rick Stowe, editorial director for Overland Expo, explains over email. “In the last few years, we’ve seen an uptick in all-wheel drive and cross-over vehicles and the gear that helps them get further into the backcountry. This includes lightweight rooftop tents, modular drawer systems, air mattresses designed to make it easy to sleep in your vehicle, and more. The ‘softroader’ is definitely on the rise. No matter what you’re driving, as long as you’re getting out, enjoying your time, and adventuring responsibly, we’re all about it.”

Overland Expo is more than just a series of events. The company has a magazine, produces videos, and has a charitable arm called the Overland Expo Foundation that funds projects like taking veterans on trips and a clean-up partnership with Tread Lightly! each year. The foundation in part gets funds through a yearly auction of distinct Ultimate Overland Builds — one vehicle and one motorcycle. The decked-out GMC Canyon AT4X I tested will go to auction on bringatrailer.com at the end of October, and 100 percent of the proceeds go to the foundation (anyone interested can stay in the loop by signing up for the Overland Expo Foundation’s newsletter).

“I would say that this truck is definitely our most practical build to date,” says Matt Feldermann, who has more than 20 years of off-roading and overlanding experience and is currently Overland Expo’s build project manager. “Real world drivability was the priority and the GMC Canyon AT4X is such a phenomenal platform from the factory, I only added components that served a purpose to take the truck’s capability even further. We didn’t add anything just for the sake of adding more ‘stuff,’ and I really like that aspect of the build.”

Matt Feldermann’s overlanding essentials:

Tires: Upgrading to a quality all-terrain tire (like the BFGoodrich tires on the Ultimate Build) is often the most significant upgrade you can make.Suspension: Look for a quality suspension system that adds to the capability of the vehicle, without sacrificing ride quality or handling. This will not only provide a more enjoyable driving experience off-road but also handle the additional weight of your gear with ease.First-aid kit: Often overlooked, a GOOD first aid kit is essential when traveling off-the-grid.Recovery gear: Having at least some basic recovery gear can help you get out of a bad situationSleeping solution: Roof top tents are awesome, but some people enjoy ground tents or even sleep inside their vehicle.Cooking gear: While having a multi-burner stove is awesome for larger groups, I am perfectly content with a Jet Boil to make ramen noodles and oatmeal when I’m by myself.Lighting: Auxiliary lighting improves visibility in poor weather and when traveling through remote areas with active wildlife at night.

The driving event of my test drive was a fancy family lunch — a caviar lunch, to be specific — in a spot most people can’t reach. Reaching that spot was accomplished with relative ease in the Ultimate Build. So was setting up.

This year’s Ultimate Build was made in partnership with Peak Suspension. It has a Jetboil Flash Cooking System, coffee press, Project X 41-quart Blizzard Box cooler, and 20-inch Blackstone camping griddle to cover all food needs. On one side of the truck there’s an awning that extends out for shade, while a water tank is on the other side and AluCab Gen 3-R pop-up tent is on top. An enclosed shower cube brings the comforts of the indoors outside.

The truck itself is roomy with a large center touchscreen information center I quickly connected to Apple CarPlay for directions (before losing service, at least). The dash makes it quick and easy to read the truck’s vitals at all times. Cameras surround the truck, so I didn’t lose visibility even with all of the gear and build-outs added on. Power is a given for overlanding vehicles. Comfort, not so much, though the midsize GMC truck offers plenty with a Bose sound system and plush heated and ventilated seats (ideal for sweating through tough terrain).

Reliability is the biggest consideration for overlanding. The Ultimate Build offers all that you need. There’s a self recovery winch, Bluetti AC240 power station for keeping charged, a two-way radio and external speaker, skid plates, snorkel, long-lasting truck battery, auxiliary driving lights, ZOLEO Global Satellite Communicator, and more. Built-in drawers pull out of the bed with military grade tools from Forrest Tool Company. The WeBoost Drive Reach Overland extends phone coverage, and the wireless charger under the infotainment system is designed so your phone doesn’t scoot around no matter how bumpy the trail gets.

Photo: Nickolaus Hines

I ended up calling off Pennsylvania Gulch before things got too much for me, leaving the full trail for another time. Preferably a ride without a baby in the back and after getting some more experience under my belt. Overland Expo’s large network, learning materials, and stories and videos will surely help, too.

But the trip immediately made me understand why people are drawn to overlanding, and I’ve already started planning the next adventure in a friend’s Bronco. Hopefully things once again go sideways (in the best way).

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Eagle Creek’s Gear Warrior Carry-On Is the Definition of Effortless Travel

I recently had the luxury of traveling with the Gear Warrior XE 4-Wheel as my carry-on luggage for a 4-day trip packed with activities. Oh my, that thing can roll anywhere I tested it in the broken streets of Buenos Aires – but when I say “luxury,” let me first set the context in which I use that term.

I have traveled lots, locally and internationally, for work and pleasure, and I have moved countries across the globe, including four times between Argentina and Australia in 2014, 2016, 2019 and 2021. I did most of it without a good carry-on. I was young and could not afford a $400 piece of luggage. Instead, I used backpacks, duffel bags, and cheap luggage (like, $15 cheap at one point) that would not really roll. I was fine – or so I thought, until my sciatica started complaining about how much I carry on my back. My first “fancy” carry-on was a Samsonite one I found abandoned next to the garbage across the street from my apartment in Madrid: One of the zippers was broken, but I took it anyway and fixed it, because I am a #reuserepurposerecycle kind of gal. It was great for train travel in Europe and I would still be using it, if it weren’t too large for the overhead bin in most airlines. That’s where the Gear Warrior came in.

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How I landed on the Eagle Creek Gear Warrior XE 4-Wheel carry-on

Looking fresh. Photo: Debbie Gonzalez Canada

Between 2022 and now, I spent a lot of time searching for the ideal carry-on. For me, that meant it had to be water-resistant, expandable, durable, as sustainable as possible, have four spinner wheels, and allow for easy access to my computer. I also wanted something sturdy, since airlines often request passengers to check carry-ons due to the lack of room on airplanes, and I needed something safe for bus and train travel. A colleague I trust recommended Eagle Creek for the workmanship and sustainability of the brand (including their “No matter what” warranty for things like wheels, handles, zippers and frames), and I fell in love with the Gear Warrior XE 4-Wheel in the sequoia color.

First (good) impressions on the Eagle Creek Gear Warrior XE 4-Wheel carry-on

Packed, but with still more room. Photo: Debbie Gonzalez Canada

I was greatly surprised with how much I was able to fit in and how tidy everything looked with minimal effort. For a 4-day trip, for example, I packed two bulky wool cardigans, five shirts, two pairs of jeans, underwear, wool socks, my pajamas, plus two books (overkill much?) and a large toiletry bag. As you can see in the picture above, I would have been able to easily include an extra pair of shoes if I wanted, right next to the books. I carried my laptop in an additional backpack this time, but the carry-on has an internal sleeve for laptops that will come in handy in the future.

I took trains, buses, and subways with it, I rode multiple escalators and walked nearly a mile rolling it (in Buenos Aires, with its uneven sidewalks). The heavy-duty spinner wheels made the whole thing seem so easy. Perhaps what I meant at the beginning when I said I had the luxury of traveling with Eagle Creek’s Gear Warrior, is that it was effortlessly stylish. The only “problem” I had, if you can call it that, was a rookie mistake on my part, not the bag. While I was waiting for an Uber, the sidewalk had an inclination and the bag rolled on its own and I literally had to speed up to catch it, sitcom style. The Uber driver saw me running after my bag and had the decency of not making fun of me, which I very much appreciated.

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What this carry-on could improve

Photo: REI

It would be fantastic to have the same specs on a lighter bag, especially since some airlines impose a weight limit on local and international flights. For instance, Latam only allows for 22 lb for carry ons, and this bag is close to 7.5 lb. I must say, though, that the only cases when airlines actually checked the weight of my carry-on was when I was carrying a 60L backpack or a bulky duffel bag, not when I used carry-ons with two or four wheels.

Because of the way it opens, I was hoping that I would be able to grab things from the carry-on like one does from a backpack, barely opening a zipper and without having to put the whole thing flat on the floor. I was disappointed in the lack of ability to do that. I am able to take the computer or whatever I have in the internal sleeve, but for other things, the luggage is not flexible enough to reach down to the bottom with only a small part of the zipper opened. I still prefer this shape, though, against more traditional hardshell carry-ons that open like a clamshell.

Eagle Creek Gear Warrior XE 4-Wheel carry-on specs

Standard Dimensions: 21.65 x 14 x 9 in. / 55 x 35 x 23 cmWeight: 7 lb. 8 oz. / 3402 gStandard Volume: 2441 cu. in. / 40 LExpanded Volume: 3334 cu. in. / 55 L (so, 15 extra liters thanks to a zippered expansion panel that makes the carry-on 2 inches wider)Material: 100% Recycled 600D Polyester Dobby, which is abrasion and weather-resistantWheels: 4 heavy-duty, multi-directional wheelsHandle: Multi-stop, impact-resistant extended handleOther features: interior and exterior compression straps and multiple grab handles, drop-in interior laptop sleeve, interior mesh pockets with zippers, one small and flat external pocket (e.g., for the passport), and hypalon-reinforced corners.

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