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Greek islands without the crowds

Summering in the Greek islands isn’t just for British royalty anymore. And, unfortunately, that’s kind of the problem. The places that have given the islands their worldwide reputation for white-walled cliffside villages, ancient ruins, and stunning blue water are full. Hit a beach in Santorini this time of year, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find someplace to put a towel. Drinks at bars in Mykonos are as much as they are in Manhattan. It’s generally just a tourism glut.

The good news is that Greece has over 6,000 islands, and not all of them are over-touristed. Sunvil, a UK-based independent tour operator, analyzed search data for Greek islands and found the destinations that have seen the greatest increase in search traffic — signaling that while these underrated islands are devoid of crowds, they likely won’t stay that way for long. Here are the top 10 islands in Greece to plan a trip to before everyone else does.

1. Kythira

Photo: Heracles Kritikos/Shutterstock

No slice of paradise should be easily obtained, and the sparsely populated island of Kythira is no exception. The most cost effective way to get here is to travel to the far south of the Peloponnese peninsula and grab a ferry from Neapoli, a long trip but also a cool way to see some new parts of the country. Once on-island, you’ll find a place filled with rivers and deep gorges where you can lose yourself in river trails like the one off the village of Mylopotamos. Here, you’ll hike past ruins of old mills to waterfalls perfect for cooling off after a long hike.

Another hidden trail takes you to the secluded beach at Kalami, which will require either a canyoning guide or a 90-foot descent down a cliff to reach. You can also visit the capital city of Hora where a Venetian castle looks out over the island, and you’ll enjoy book shops, coffee shops, and serene rooftop restaurants. Come quick though — Kythira saw a whopping 340-percent increase in search interest this year, over eight times as much as the next-most-popular search.

2. Samos

Photo: Nejdet Duzen/Shutterstock

Remember in high school when you had to memorize that formula for the side lengths of a right triangle? You can thank Samos, birthplace of the great mathematician Pythagoras who gave us the Pythagorean theorem, for that. His old thinking cave is near the town of Isomata, though aside from a sweeping view down the south side of Kerkis mountain, you won’t find much there.

Ninth-grade-geometry tourism aside, Kerkis and its almost-twin peak Ampelos dominate the skyline. Hikes up those mountains offer the most rewarding views of the island, but if you’d rather spend your vacation without leg cramps, you can also enjoy the perfect weather at spots like Potokaki Beach and Kokkari, where sunset drinks are among the best in the world.

3. Lemnos

Photo: Heracles Kritikos/Shutterstock

A little bit like Guadeloupe, this island in the north Aegean is shaped like a butterfly and has a wealth of topography. The windswept beaches along the coast have some of the best winds in the region, and spots like Keros Beach have luxurious tents and glamping resorts, so you don’t have to rough it. On the island’s interior, you’ll find a curious desert where the sandy hills and low shrubbery of Pachies Ammoudies make you feel like you’ve magically transported to somewhere in Nevada.

Lemnos is also rich in volcanic rock formations far north in Falakro. You’ll also find the ruins of an ancient amphitheater along the coast in Hephaestia, as well as a religious shrine and ancient baths.

4. Kythnos

Photo: Aerial-motion/Shutterstock

For a relatively undiscovered island that’s easily accessible from Athens, check out Kythos. Here, you’ll be greeted by a smattering of whitewashed buildings along the shoreline with rolling green and brown hills beyond. Venture over the mountains into Loutra and find the island’s most famous attraction, its natural hot springs. These holdovers from the area’s volcanic past are the only place you might find even remotely crowded, but visit during the week it shouldn’t be too bad.

Beaches like Apokrousi and Episkopi double as boat tie-ups, and though they don’t rage like we do back in America, the scenery is enough to make them worth the visit. You can also check out the biggest cave in Greece at Katafiki then, when you’re finished, enjoy a full seafood lunch along the cobblestone streets of Chora. Kythnos is also home to one of the most ornate small church ceilings in the country, which you’ll find in the seaside town of Kanala.

5. Halki

Photo: Lubos K/Shutterstock

If you want to feel like you’ve wandered into a remote fishing village in the middle of perfect blue waters, Halki is your spot. A 75-minute boat trip from Rhodes, this little island feels frozen in time, literally since the clock in the harbor has been stuck on the same time for decades. Under that clock, you’ll find colorful, rickety fishing boats where seafarers prepare their vessels and unload their catches in the afternoon.

Though buildings throughout the island look like they date back millennia, much of the island is also new and bright. Visiting the waterfront tavernas in the island’s lone settlement of Emborio, you’ll find many have cable television and, on occasion, WiFi. There are not many visitors, though, so be prepared to make your own fun. The good news is that the people here are the kind of small-town friendly that make you feel like you’ve lived there for decades, so much so you may find it hard to get back on that boat to Rhodes.

6. Koufonissi

Photo: giovannifederzoni/Shutterstock

If you want an island where you can just land, strap on your sneakers, and explore some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, Koufonissi is your spot. Or, more specifically, Pano, or Upper Koufonissi. This region of the Cyclades is actually three islands, though Pano is the only one really set up for visitors. Land ashore and throw on some sunscreen, then begin your trek around the two-square-mile island, stopping at any beach you can find. Back on the main settlement, seaside tavernas await to refuel you after a long day.

If walking the island in search of secluded beaches sounds too exerting, small boats will take you to more popular beaches like Pori Beach for about $6. There you can relax with a cocktail at Kalofego before strolling back to the harbor. Or head to Fanos where a natural swimming hole leads you out to the ocean via an underwater passage.

7. Milos

Photo: Georgios Tsichlis/Shutterstock

The problem with a vacation to a small island is that you sometimes run out of stuff to do. Not the case in Milos, where the history, geography, and beaches make it the odd island you can visit a few times without getting bored. The volcanic island in the Cyclades is most notably where the Venus de Milo was discovered, but functionally, it was a rich source of minerals for centuries.

Unless you’re an avid geological tourist, what you’ll really want to come here for are the beaches. Milos has over 70 of them. From the white cliffs and turquoise-clear water at Kleftiko Beach to restaurants that cook your food in the sand at Paleochori, Milos’s beaches offer stuff you just won’t find elsewhere. Take a boat out along the coast and you’ll see the fascinating rock formations that line the island. Or stay inland and wander through history in its countless catacombs and an amphitheater that once sat 7,000.

8. Meganissi

Photo: Calin Stan/Shutterstock

The fact that this Ionian island sits just a short boat ride from the spot where Aristotle Onassis married Jackie Kennedy should tell you a little about the perfection of its isolated setting. Getting here involves flying to the tiny airport at Preveza then taking a 40-minute taxi to the coast and a 15-minute boat trip to the capital of Vathi. Or you can tender in from your yacht, which is why the world’s elite are slowly moving into this 7.7-square-mile paradise.

For now, it’s still a relaxing little island of 2,000 people where most visitors who don’t arrive by yacht are sailing enthusiasts frequenting the seafood tavernas for dinner. Like most of the Greek islands, the restaurants have fish caught that morning and charge about half of what you’d expect in America. And if you get tired of the options in one of the island’s three villages, it’s only a short walk to one of the other two.

9. Tilos

Photo: David Fowler/Shutterstock

For pure, unadulterated nature in the Greek islands, you’re not finding many places better than Tilos. This island about 50 miles northwest of Rhodes is largely a protected ecological park, a birders paradise full of goldfinches, bee-eater, Bonelli’s hawks, and dozens of other species. It’s also the last place elephants roamed in Europe; four thousand years ago, Dwarf Elephants called Tilos home. Their remains were discovered in Charkadio cave in 1971, which you can still visit today.

No swath of Greek island nature is complete without beaches, and the sands at Eristos and Agios Antonio are as good as you’ll find anywhere in the region. What you won’t find much of, however, are crowds, since Tilos’s beaches still remain very much under-the-radar.

10. Karpathos

Photo: Pawel Kazmierczak/Shutterstock

The old world lives on in Karpathos, an island of about 6,500 people where locals will still wander out of their houses and strike up conversations with visitors on the street. Those villages are often colorful collections of small homes set into a mountainside, the most notable of which is Olympos. Here you’ll find people speaking their own dialect and keeping their old customs, an effective snapshot into the Greece of centuries ago.

Karpathos also has over 20 beaches, with a variety of scenery from Kyra Panagia and its perfectly clear blue waters to the emerald coastline at Apella. Windsurfers will find the best winds at the inlet of Saria, and divers will be delighted to find copious shipwrecks, including one of Europe’s newest discovered, between Karpathos and Kassos in 2015.


More like this: The Peloponnese belongs on your must-visit list in Greece

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Best noodle shops in San Francisco

As San Francisco solidifies its status as the tech capital of the United States, the city is often accused of losing its soul. The winding streets are covered in electric scooters, and there seems to be a green smoothie joint or upscale coffee store on every corner. However, the heart of what made San Francisco special still lives on its incredible array of cuisines. If you know where to look, you can fulfill almost any craving.

When I’m feeling bummed out by omnipresent fog or just need a bit of warmth, I head to one of my favorite noodle spots in the city. Skip the fast-casual chains and try these gems to get your noodle fix instead — whether you’re in the mood for filling Japanese ramen or a light tofu noodle, San Francisco has it all.

Kevin’s Noodle House (also known as Pho Huynh Hiep)

1833 Irving Street, Outer Sunset

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With one location set in the hubbub of the Outer Sunset’s Irving Street area and two more in Daly City, Kevin’s Noodle House is a staple for any pho aficionado. The speedy service and rich spice-infused broths are unrivaled. Take a seat at one of the tightly packed tables and enjoy anything from a classic Number 13 (beef broth with translucent vermicelli noodles and rare steak) to a more adventurous mì, an egg noodle soup with fish cake and hearty slabs of pork belly. Make sure to wash down your soup with a Lemon Soda, an ingenious and refreshing invention that consists of a can of Perrier sparkling water along with a glass of lemon juice and sugar, mixed to your specifications.

Yamo

3406 18th Street, Mission District

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If you’re looking to explore the wonderful world of Burmese food, look no further than Yamo, a cozy, cash-only kitchen in the middle of the vibrant Mission neighborhood. The restaurant only fits around 10 at a time on classic diner stools, so make sure to arrive before the dinner rush at around seven o’clock.

Upon entering, revel in the sensory overload: yam samosas splattering in the deep-fryer, lemongrass boiling in pots of brightly colored yellow chicken curry, and the famous Yamo House Noodles with your choice of beef, pork, chicken, or tofu, sizzling on the griddle. These noodles are chewy and savory, perfectly spiced with crispy fried garlic chips and sweet soy sauce. Slurp down your food under the watchful eye of the owner, but be careful with your phone — she prefers a picture-free environment in which to work her noodle magic.

Yin Du Wonton Noodle

648 Pacific Avenue, Chinatown

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If you ever find yourself burned out from the chaos and the bustling souvenir shops of Chinatown’s Grant Street, grab a piping-hot bowl of wonton noodle soup at Yin Du Wonton Noodle. Behind its nondescript façade lies a vast menu of noodle soups. For just over five dollars, dig into a large bowl of thin wheat noodles and plump pork- and shrimp-filled wontons. The broth is clear and subtle in flavor; follow the locals and add a healthy dollop of one of the homemade hot sauces available on each table. Gluten-free folks can enjoy some warm rice porridge, served with a salty sauce and your choice of oysters, liver, fish, or preserved egg. Pay up front when you finish and walk out knowing you’ve scored one of the best noodle bargains in town.

Kingdom of Dumplings

1713 Taraval Street, Outer Sunset

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While Kingdom is best known for its dumplings (as the name suggests), try one of the noodle dishes to be transported to the plains of Northern China. Most remarkable is the rendition of zhàjiàngmiàn, a Beijing specialty made with thick noodles topped with thinly sliced pickled vegetables, minced pork, and a robust and complex black bean paste. Mix it all together and share with the whole family. For those looking for a lighter option, start off your meal with the cold tofu skin noodle. These noodles have a refreshing taste and elastic texture, and they’re a good counterbalance to the more flavor-packed items on the menu.

Ramen Underground

356 Kearny Street, Financial District

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To find authentic Tokyo-style ramen, venture to the Financial District to sample the fare of the incredible Ramen Underground. Start off with a side of gyoza (Japanese potstickers) then move on to the star of the show: the slow-cooked, milky white tonkotsu pork broth. The noodles do not disappoint, and for a small extra charge, you can load up your bowl with a variety of toppings, including corn, butter, kimchi, or a soft-boiled egg. Ramen Underground’s soup is fatty without being overbearing; the saltiness of the broth balances perfectly with the slightly sweet noodles. This spot is popular with the downtown lunch crowd, so snag a table in the mid-afternoon.


More like this: The best free (and almost free) things to do in San Francisco

The post The best noodle shops in San Francisco that even locals don’t know about appeared first on Matador Network.

WHO reclassifies transgenderism

In what seems like a long-overdue step forward for the LGBTQ rights movement, the World Health Organization (WHO) has finally removed transgenderism (or “gender dysphoria”) from its list of mental disorders. The change was approved on May 25 after being introduced last year, and it signals an important shift in the way gender non-conformity is viewed by the medical community.

Graeme Reid, LGBT rights director at Human Rights Watch, said, “The WHO’s removal of ‘gender identity disorder’ from its diagnostic manual will have a liberating effect on transgender people worldwide. Governments should swiftly reform national medical systems and laws that require this now officially outdated diagnosis.”

One of the main reasons this change is so important is because governments around the world have used the previous classification as justification for discriminatory policies. Governments could require “gender diagnosis” and potentially dangerous procedures, like sterilization, before transgender people would be recognized by law. Hopefully, all of that is about to change.

According to Reid, “Transgender people are fighting stigma and discrimination that can be traced in part to medical systems that have historically diagnosed expressions of gender nonconformity as a mental pathology.”

Now that gender nonconformity has been erased from the mental disorder list, the stage is set for more thoughtful and progressive discussions about the role of gender in our community.

H/T: Gay Star Health

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The post ‘Transgender’ removed from World Health Organization’s list of mental disorders appeared first on Matador Network.

Hikes in McDowell Sonoran Preserve

After four days of eating barbecue brisket sandwiches, drinking prickly pear Margaritas, and lazing by a pool, I do what anyone who’s begrudgingly agreed to go on a sunrise hike in the Arizona desert would do: frantically Google just how much trouble I’m in for. How far? How steep? What if you’ve accidentally skipped leg day for, say, the last six years?

But all the research in the world can’t stop the van filled with fit journalists and fashionable Instagram influencers from rolling up to my cushy Scottsdale resort at 5:00 AM, with the sun still low in the sky, bound for the McDowell Sonoran Preserve.

The preserve encompasses more than 30,000 acres of the Sonoran Desert and has several access points, but a 20-minute drive from Old Town Scottsdale (or a half hour from downtown Phoenix) brings you to the Gateway Trailhead. The park is open from sunrise to sunset all year, but early spring is the best time to visit, when the desert is covered in colorful wildflower blooms and temperatures are mild.

Photo: Laura Reilly

For the wildly out of shape, a group hike can be an exercise in self-flagellation, where you’re more focused on being unable to breathe than the supposedly breathtaking views. But a few minutes into the hike, and after a few dozen confirmations with our guide that the terrain isn’t going to change dramatically around the next bend, it becomes clear that this is actually going to be enjoyable.

The gently sloping, crushed granite trail is soft and forgiving, and the ever-changing plant life along the way allows for frequent stops to admire red-blossomed ocotillo, spiny cholla, and towering giant saguaro cacti. A slender trail runner with jacked calves jogs past and quickly disappears into the mountains, and not far behind us, an elderly couple with trekking poles and binoculars is walking at a leisurely pace. All of us are enjoying the same blush pink sunrise over the desert.

It’s rare to find a park where those in peak physical condition can challenge themselves, and those with limited endurance are still rewarded with epic views for their efforts. With seven trailheads and more than 200 miles of trails — many of which are also accessible to mountain bikers and horseback riders and are dog-friendly — the McDowell Sonoran Preserve is truly for everyone.

Locals could come here every weekend to explore a new section of the preserve and always experience something new. You can also join free, steward-led guided hikes or educational talks year round. But if you’re short on time in the Phoenix area and just want to spend one perfect morning hiking the desert, these are the trails you should choose from — no matter your abilities.

Gateway Trailhead

Photo:

Woman missing in Hawaii forest found

A Hawaiian woman named Amanda Eller stumbled into her own version of Survivor on May 8, and luckily lived to talk about it. Eller had gone for a short forest hike on the island of Maui, but when she briefly left the path to rest, she got turned around. She went deeper and deeper into the forest, and fractured her leg when she fell off a cliff.

“I heard this voice that said: ‘If you want to live, keep going,’” she told The New York Times. “And as soon as I would doubt my intuition and try to go another way than where it was telling me, something would stop me, a branch would fall on me, I’d stub my toe or I’d trip. So I was like, ‘OK, there is only one way to go.’”

The 35-year-old yoga instructor’s car was found in the Makawao Forest Reserve parking lot with her phone and wallet inside. Her parents offered a $10,000 reward, and hundreds of volunteers combed the forest searching for her. After 17 days, she finally saw a rescue helicopter overhead.

According to her rescuers Javier Cantellops, Chris Berquist, and Troy Helmers, Eller was discovered in the bed of a creek with waterfalls on either side. She had managed to survive by staying close to water sources and eating wild raspberries, strawberry guavas, and moths.

Photo: Findamanda/Facebook

When she was reunited with her rescuers on Monday at a community gathering, according to Today, she praised their efforts. “You guys are the heroes. I am not the hero, I am just the girl sitting here healing my ankles,” she said. She also thanked the hundreds in her community who contributed to the search and rescue efforts. “I’ve never experienced anything like this where the community is showing up with so much freakin’ heart and so much passion, and these guys were not going to give up on me, thank God!”

According to her friend Sarah Haynes, Eller has “a little bit of a one step backward, two steps forward situation, but she’s spiritually great. She’s going through a very grueling process on her legs, where they need to remove the tops of the wounds and it’s very painful, much like a burn victim.”

Haynes also said that Eller’s optimism and perseverance are what allowed her to get through the ordeal alive.

H/T: The Guardian

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The last Sumatran rhino in Malaysia

The last male Sumatran rhino in Malaysia has died from old age following a stint in intensive care that started on May 19. Named Tam, the rhino was first discovered on an oil palm plantation back in 2008, captured, and transferred to Tabin Wildlife Reserve. Attempts to breed him with two female rhinos were unsuccessful, and with Tam’s death, one of those females, named Iman, is the country’s last remaining Sumatran rhino.

Thanks to decades of habitat loss and poaching, there are fewer than 80 Sumatran rhinos in the world. Most live on the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Their scarcity is exacerbating the threat of extinction as it’s difficult to find partners to mate. If females go too long without mating, they can develop cysts and fibrosis in their reproductive tracts.

“Tam’s death underscores how critically important the collaborative efforts driving the Sumatran Rhino Rescue project are,” Margaret Kinnaird, wildlife practice leader for WWF International, told National Geographic. “We hung so much hope on Tam to produce offspring in captivity, but that hope was dashed when the remaining two females at Tabin were unable to carry fetuses.”

While he wasn’t able to reproduce, Tam did help researchers better understand the species. The fight for the species’ survival continues, and there’s still hope. Groups like the Sumatran Rhino Rescue aim to capture as many wild rhinos as possible to facilitate captive breeding. Late last year, the Sumatran Rhino Rescue added a reproductive-healthy female rhino named Pahu to a breeding facility in Borneo. She was even given a special police escort.

H/T: National Geographic

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Airport delays this summer

Summer is supposed to be a time for vacation and forgetting your real-world problems, but if your plans involve air travel, escaping frustration and inconvenience might be harder than you thought. This summer, it seems a perfect storm is brewing that’s poised to complicate air travel for millions of travelers, according to Bloomberg. The first issue is the potential reassignment of hundreds of airport security personnel to the Mexican border, and the second is the continued groundings of Boeing’s 737 Max planes, after fatal crashes in March of this year and October 2018.

The Department of Homeland Security (DHS) is considering transferring dozens of air marshals and 400 airport screeners from the TSA to help with border operations — a move that could both impact air safety and security, as well as cause longer airport lines. Sara Nelson, president of the Association of Flight Attendants-CWA, said, “As the busy summer travel begins, it couldn’t be a worse time [to] undermine important safety programs and endanger the safety, security, and comfort of the traveling public.”

The DHS has pledged to limit the amount of staff taken from airports already short on personnel, but airports around the country are likely to feel the impact regardless.

Perhaps a more immediate and pressing problem is the grounding of the 737 Max planes. After two fatal crashes, three of the four largest US carriers have grounded the 737 Max, putting a strain on their fleet capacity. American Airlines Group Inc., Southwest Airlines Co., and United Continental Holdings Inc. have all removed the model from their schedules through August — typically the busiest travel period — leaving the rest of their fleet to pick up the slack. The grounding has caused United to cancel 2,410 flights in June and July, with American saying that the groundings are causing 115 daily flight cancellations.

So regardless of where you’re planning to travel this summer, don’t be surprised if your vacation hits a snag or two, and make sure to arrive at the airport early.

H/T: Bloomberg

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The post Air travel is going to be hell this summer, thanks to these two issues appeared first on Matador Network.

Cyclists stranded in Montana

Memorial Day took a frightening turn for 13 cyclists, when an avalanche stranded them in Montana’s Glacier National Park. The cyclists were trapped for about eight hours on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, as park crews attempted to clear the snow. The avalanche occurred at Triple Arches, which had been closed earlier in the day due to a rock slide that was blocking the road there.

When the cyclists became trapped, two volunteer bike patrol units relayed the distress call to park dispatch, and stayed in the area for over four hours until park rangers could arrive on the scene. The snow only stabilized after several hours, however, so the park’s road crew had to wait until they could safely work on the site. Eventually, the crew cleared the rock slide and cut a path through the avalanche to open an escape route for the stranded cyclists. The rescue operation took around eight hours and required over a dozen park staff and volunteers. The cyclists were reportedly unharmed.

Paul Austin, chief ranger, advised bikers, “If you see fresh snow on the side of the road or across the road, even if you are excited about your bike trip, turn around. Take responsibility for your safety and though disappointing, plan on heading out another day. Biking along the Going-to-the-Sun Road is not the same as an easy bike trip around town.”

H/T: National Parks Traveler

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The post Thirteen cyclists stranded during Memorial Day avalanche at Glacier National Park appeared first on Matador Network.

Philly habits hard to give up

The dreaded time has come, you are leaving Philadelphia. After years of developing into someone only recognizable to your fellow Philly people, you may have to take a look at your behavior. No matter how far away you move, these nine Philly traditions will be hard to give up.

1. Talking in Philly speak

No one else uses “jawn” or “youse” in spite of the fact that they are the most efficient words in the Philadelphian language. If you want to be understood by those outsiders you’re going to need to drop this habit. However, if you have no intention of connecting with others, then, by all means, carry on.

2. White-knuckle gripping the steering wheel out of fear of potholes

It can be hard to imagine, but there are places where you can confidently drive down the street without the heart-racing image of you ripping through yet another tire. Leave your crater-sized pothole fears on the streets of Philadelphia, where they will also be dutifully neglected.

3. Bracing yourself for the weird wind tunnels on certain cross streets

Why are you like this, 19th Street? Outside of our dear city, you can walk the streets with your hair done because it will actually stay that way.

4. Expecting a beer and a shot to cost $6

A dying service in Philly, and non-existent anywhere else. The world is apparently not ready for the Philly special.

5. Half parking on the sidewalk

Streets in other cities may be wide enough for you to drive down and park on them. What a world.

6. Getting weirdly defensive whenever someone mentions Philadelphia

An immediate trigger is set whenever someone not from Philly dares to give their opinion about it. It gets worse when you’re in other places, best to drop this one if you’re looking to ever make any friends. Or hold onto it and tell them to shut their mouths when they approach the subject of how this one guy was rude to them that one time in Old City, because who needs new friends?

7. Not going anywhere if it’s not within a 15-20 minute walk of your neighborhood

If you live anywhere in Philly, chances are you know that part of the city well and only that part. Except for the occasional weekend “road trip” to Fishtown, you won’t find Philadelphians outside of a five-to-ten block radius of their homes. Unless you live in those neighborhoods where there’s nothing to do and everything is residential, then you’re probably leaving as often as possible.

8. Thinking you have a good chance of getting an outdoor space with your apartment

Roof decks, backyards, weird “balconies” that are 10 square feet, space that’s standing room only jutting out from your window — we take them for granted. Even if your Philly place doesn’t have an outdoor area, you know someone who does.

9. Suggesting a night out on a Tuesday

You’ll probably get a response that you’re not ready for, warranting a “Sorry, I must have misheard, you only go out on weekends? I mean, sure, I guess that’s one way to live.”


More like this: 9 things Philadelphians always have to explain to out-of-towners

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The ultimate guide to Steveston, BC

Where the Fraser River meets the Strait of Georgia, you’ll find a place that tells the authentic story of the British Columbia fishing village — from historic roots to 21st-century evolution. This is the city of Richmond and, set in its southwest corner, the village of Steveston.

Here, you wake up early to watch the boats leave the harbour. To get some shopping done on an easy stroll from one end of the neighbourhood to the other. To tour the multiple national historic sites. To buy your share of the day’s catch at Fisherman’s Wharf. A visit to this village-within-a-city will capture a little piece of your heart. Here’s how to let it.

Steveston: One perfect day

Photo: Tourism Richmond

Start your morning at the boardwalk on Bayview Street and watch the fishing boats navigate the harbour. You’re looking at what was once the largest fishing port on the West Coast, an industry built by Japanese-Canadians over a century ago. This international come-and-go along the Strait of Georgia has been happening since the 1870s. And although the boats have changed a bit since then, and there’s no longer a working cannery to scent the Pacific breeze with salmon, the saltwater air is much the same.

Break your gaze, and go up No 1 Road for breakfast at Davood’s Bistro. Franchise restaurants don’t really belong in Steveston — especially with smoked salmon bennys on the menu. Locals have made this one of Steveston’s most popular brunch spots (and it’s right across the street from your next stop).

After your benny or breakfast bowl, cross Moncton Street to the Steveston Tram, a one-of-a-kind museum dedicated to the Interurban tramcars that ran here from 1905 to 1958. Now this former rail stop houses Interurban Tramcar 1220, one of the few remaining cars from this period in Richmond’s history, when the electric hum of the Interurbans defined the town.

Photo: Tourism Richmond

Now that you’ve gotten a taste for Steveston’s past and present, head west on Moncton toward Village Bikes — stop in if you want to travel on two wheels. From here, you have three choices:

Continue — on foot or by bike — west along Moncton Street toward Steveston’s shopping quarter. If you get hungry on the way, Steveston Coffee Company offers baked goods and house-roasted coffee, or you can stop and grab a loaf of bread at Romania Country Bread.
A little farther on Moncton is the Gulf of Georgia National Historic Site . What was once a working cannery (up until 1979) is today a museum that provides a glimpse of what the industry was like in its heyday of the 1930s.
Grab your wheels — bike or car — and meander east to Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site , where you can see how and where this fishing village got its start (and even catch some vintage restorations in-process). The best way to experience it is on a guided tour.

Photo: Tourism Richmond

Note: If you’re a fan of the TV show Once Upon a Time, you’ll notice some “familiar faces” as you walk down Moncton Street. Keep an eye out for Marine Garage (Seppo’s Automotive), Standard Clocks (Nikaido), Storybrooke Country Bread (Romania Country Bread), and Granny’s Diner (Cannery Café). Walking maps can be picked up at the Visitor Centre — you’ll recognize that building, too.

Once you’re done at the cannery or shipyards or have made your way down Moncton, it’s back to the boardwalk. Your next stop is for lunch at Blue Canoe Waterfront Restaurant. Its location next to Fisherman’s Wharf gives you another great view of the harbour, the perfect backdrop for a fresh seafood meal. Be sure to stop at the wharf afterwards to pick up some fresh seafood to go! The catch is seasonal, with the most variety available in the summer; however, you’ll find sablefish, crab, shrimp, and sea urchin year-round, and halibut practically so (February – November).

Photo: Tourism Richmond

When you’re ready, head to Garry Point Park to wile away an afternoon watching boats, walking along the waterfront, and — on a clear day — getting a glimpse of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula. There’s also the Japanese-style Kuno Garden to wander through and open areas that are pretty much perfect for kite flying. If you linger long enough, Garry Point is an ideal place to catch a Richmond sunset, too.

End your day with a flavourful dinner at Kisamos Greek Taverna. Or, if you haven’t gotten enough local seafood, choose your side in the great fish-n-chips battle: Pajo’s vs. Dave’s. Which is better is the subject of a long-standing debate.

Where to stay

Steveston Cafe & Hotel has a location that can’t be beat. It’s right in the historic village, steps from the harbour (and Pajo’s). It was established in 1895 and has that no-frills, built-for-fishermen look, but its 2019 renovations bring in a modern element. Plus, breakfast is served until 2pm.

There are many other stellar Richmond lodging options that are either right in Steveston or sit a quick drive or transit ride away. Find the one that works best for you!

Mark your calendar

Photo: Tourism Richmond

Steveston plays host to several of Richmond’s seasonal events and activities. And remember, Richmond is BC’s fourth-largest city, just 20 minutes south of Vancouver — there’s tons going on. Here are some of the town’s biggest events and seasonal attractions:

Richmond Canada Day and Steveston Salmon Festival – If you’re in town on Canada Day, do not miss this combined event. It’s a pancake breakfast, parade, salmon barbecue, and fireworks show all rolled into one, plus a day’s worth of activities for the whole family.
Richmond Maritime Festival – This annual event at Britannia Shipyards showcases Steveston’s rich seagoing heritage with historic ships, performances, and storytelling. Expect surprises.
Whale watching – From April to the end of October, Steveston Seabreeze Adventures offers half-day whale-watching tours. Book in advance for these amazing opportunities to experience British Columbia’s marine wildlife.
Steveston Farmers & Artisans Market – From May to October, this market offers locals and tourists alike a place to buy fresh produce, artisan food, and hand-crafted products. Don’t overlook the entertainment, either.

Not bad for a fishing village, eh?

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