Matador Network's Blog, page 1092

May 21, 2019

Best things to do in the Peloponnese

The Peloponnese, the mulberry-leaf-shaped southern peninsula of mainland Greece, may not be the first destination that comes to mind when planning a trip to the cradle of Western civilization. The historical city of Athens and picture-perfect islands of Mykonos and Santorini have arguably established themselves as Greece’s must-gos. But the well-kept secrets of the Peloponnese and the region’s landscape of contrasts will make you feel like you’ve discovered a whole new world.


Green valleys and lunar landscapes, coastal towns and mountainous villages, Spartan warriors and Olympic games — the Peloponnesian peninsula beguiles visitors with its rich history and stunning vistas. Rent a car and plan to spend at least three days exploring this ancient and captivating region. Here’s why the Peloponnese are one of the most special places in Greece.


The Olympics were invented in the Peloponnese, and the Olympic torch always starts here.
Tourists visiting the ancient Olympia, Peloponnese, Greece

Photo: byvalet/Shutterstock


The Peloponnese brims with history, myths, and legends about Heracles and the Gods of ancient Greece. This is the region where Spartans were born and trained to become invincible warriors, as well as where the Olympic Games occurred for the first time.


In the western Peloponnese, the Archaeological Museum of Olympia hosts the renowned marble sculpture of Hermes of Praxiteles, and every four years from the Temple of Hera, the Olympic flame starts its journey around the world. A short drive from Olympia stands the Temple of Apollo Epikourios, Greece’s first monument to be included among UNESCO’s World Heritage sites.


In the Peloponnese’s northeast are the ancient city of Mycenae and the Archaeological Museum of Mycenae. Mycenae has given its name to an entire era between the 12th and 17th centuries BC, and it’s considered the birthplace of Greek civilization. In the same area, the ancient theater of Epidaurus, which is still used today during the annual summer Epidaurus Festival, is known for its startling acoustics.


Medieval castles and towns dot the landscape.
Monemvasia, often called The Greek Gibraltar

Photo: Georgios Tsichlis/Shutterstock


The rich history didn’t end with the Greek Empire. Throughout the centuries, Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian, and Greek castles were erected throughout the Peloponnese — narrating tales of wars, kings, and cultural exchange during medieval times.


Monemvasia, in the southeast arm of the Peloponnese, is one of the most impressive towns in Greece — or really anywhere. In 375 AD, an earthquake separated massive rock in the Myrtoan Sea from the mainland. A town was built on the far side of that rock, protected by walls and invisible to people on the mainland. A bridge now connects the mainland to Monemvasia, but you still can’t drive in the tiny, car-free town. You’ll walk on the steep, narrow, cobbled streets to see churches, mansions, a medieval fortress, and, nowadays, shops and restaurants. South of the Monemvasia’s medieval walls, the scenic harbor of Portelo is ideal for a dip during the warm months.


The Venetian Fortress of Methoni at sunset in Peloponnese, Messenia, Greece

Photo: Georgios Tsichlis/Shutterstock


Due west of Monemvasia, in the Peloponnese’s southwestern arm, the castles of Koroni and Methoni are a half-hour’s drive from each other. These fortresses overlooking the Ionian Sea are excellent spots to watch the sunset; just note that in winter they close quite early. In the south-central area of the Peloponnese, four miles from the historic city of Sparta, the castle of Mystras is a fine example of Byzantine art and a UNESCO World Heritage site.


The Peloponnese abounds in startling natural beauty.
Natural waterfall and lake in Polilimnio area in Greece

Photo: Georgios Tsichlis/Shutterstock


Beyond the mesmerizing relics of ancient empires, the Peloponnese brims with natural beauty. From the village of Charagvi, in the southwestern area called Messinia, you can embark on several hikes in varying levels of difficulty across densely vegetated trails leading to a network of 15 lakes.


Reflecting its topography, the lake area is called Polylimnio, or “many lakes.” It’s a fairytale-like setting of swimmable blue lagoons, waterfalls, and streams amid wooden bridges, rocks, and native flora. Not all lakes are open to the public, but be sure to check out both the heart-shaped Lake Kadoula and the over-60-foot-high waterfall that cascades into Lake Kadi.


Fifty-three miles north of Polylimnio, river Neda’s waterfalls plunge fiercely into an impossibly blue natural pool. As the myth goes, the river was formed when the daughter of Uranus (Sky) and Gea (Land) hit the arid land with her wand. Neda crosses a 20-mile long gorge and, along its journey, forms many mini lakes and waterfalls. The impressive canyon is accessible from May to September. If you are up for the five-hour-long trek, which entails swimming in cold waters and passing through a dark cave, you must hire an experienced guide.


The beaches are varied and idyllic.
Beautiful Voidokilia beach in Greece

Photo: Maria Uspenskaya/Shutterstock


The Peloponnese is a peninsula of 8,000 square miles with arms extending off of it, creating a seemingly endless coastline where one beach leads to another and yet another. Here, it’s nigh-on impossible to choose a favorite beach — but we’ll name a few standouts.


In the Messinia region, Voidokilia, or “the belly of an ox,” is a C-shaped beach of fine white sand and shells. Free camping isn’t allowed due to the beach’s protected biodiversity. An hour north of Voidokilia, also looking out onto the Ionian Sea, Kalo Nero (“calm water”) beach is the second most important breeding habitat of the sea turtle Caretta Caretta. Also, Kalo Nero is the estuary of river Neda. North of Kalo Nero, Kaiafas beach has dunes, a seaside pine forest, and a vibrant ecosystem. Across the road from the beach are Kaiafas lake and the natural Kaiafas springs.


In Lakoniki Mani, the middle arm of the Peloponnese, Mavrovounio is a three-mile-long beach with plenty of sunbeds and umbrellas. The afternoon breeze is ideal for windsurfing. In the far south of the Lakonia arm, Marmari beach is enclosed in a rocky setting of wild beauty. Its gentle, shallow waters are wonderful for young families.


The first capital of Greece was in the Peloponnese.
View from above on Nafplio city in Greece with port

Photo: Olga Kot Photo/Shutterstock


Nafplio, modern Greece’s first capital city, is often acclaimed as the country’s most romantic destination. This seaside town has picturesque architecture reflecting Venetian and Ottoman influences, and it’s one of the most popular weekend getaways from Athens at any time of year.


Nafplio has three castles, each offering a lovely view onto the city. The city’s attractive boutiques, cafés, taverns, and bars are all open until late at night. The pebbled beach of Arvanitia is winter swimmers’ favorite. In summer, the beach transforms into a buzzing hotspot with loungers and a bustling bar.


The Peloponnese is also packed with adventure.
Boat ride in Diros caves, a great way to discover the beauty of the underworld

Photo: Heracles Kritikos/Shutterstock


The caves of Diros on the west coast of the Laconia subregion are stunning natural wonders worth ducking into. Inside the caves, speleologists have found fossils of panthers, hyenas, lions, and hippopotamuses, as well as ceramic items indicating human presence. The breathtaking tour lasts about 25 minutes and takes visitors through lagoons and rocks.


For water-sport enthusiasts, rafting in the Lousios and Alfios rivers in Orini Arkadia is an unmissable experience. The entrance to the Peloponnese peninsula at the Canal Corinth Bridge is the place to try bungee jumping. The canal, which links the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf, is also one of the landmarks of the Peloponnese. Boats cross the narrow getaway offering one-hour cruises during which guests can even celebrate special occasions.


On the north end of the Peloponnese, the train known as Odontotos, or “tooth,” was of vital importance for the population of Kalavrita in the 1890s, before it became an attraction. The one-hour journey from Diakofto to Kalavrita follows the gorge of the Vouraikos river, passes through pine forests and tunnels, and travels over small bridges until it reaches 2,460 feet above sea level. If an easy, albeit six-hour-long, hike doesn’t intimidate you, follow the rails and walk along the river.


The history of wine is ancient and ongoing.
white cloud over vineyard in Nemea Wine Roads, Greece

Photo: ollirg/Shutterstock


Beyond Nafplio, wine consumption in the region of Nemea goes 2,500 years back. The Wine Roads begin from the ancient site of the Temple of Zeus in the central-west Peloponnese and unroll along the valley of Asopos river. Three miles away from the ancient site, the medieval Byzantine Monastery of Panagia Vrachos (“Virgin Rock”) offers excellent views to the valley, which is at its glory in autumn during the vine harvest.


Explorers of the Wine Roads have 35 wineries at their disposal. Each winery is free to visit, and tours of the production, ripening, and aging halls are available. Of course, wine tasting — especially of the red local variety called Agiorgitiko — is encouraged. Avid cyclists will be happy to know that the Wine Roads are better cruised on a bicycle.


The food is fresh, local, and unforgettable.
Greek feta cheese drizzled in olive oil

Photo: yiannisscheidt/Shutterstock


The food itself is a reason to travel through the Peloponnese. You should visit different villages and towns to try as many of the local recipes as possible — since they vary from one subregion to another. From the coastal Pilos and Kardamyli in Messenia and Limeni and Gerolimenas in Mani to the mountainous Dimitsana and Karytaina in Orini Arkadia, the cuisine is based on fresh produce such as artichokes, figs, citrus fruits, seasonal vegetables, local seafood, and organic meats. In most, if not all, Peloponnesian dishes, olive oil flows abundantly, and olives accompany every meal.


diples or thiples traditional greek Christmas dessert

Photo: photo stella/Shutterstock


An excellent way to mingle with all generations and grasp the Peloponnesian culture is to join a Peloponnesian panegyri, a religious celebration that is followed by live music, food, and alcohol. If you have a sweet tooth, try the fried diples, folded dough sheets covered in honey, cinnamon, ground walnuts, and the olive cookies.


More like this: Why the Greek city of Thessaloniki needs to be on your radar


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Published on May 21, 2019 18:00

Berlin's Kreuzberg district guide

The Kreuzberg neighborhood of Berlin is best depicted by an ominous and rather dark catchphrase: Once it gets you, you’ll never leave. It just might be true given that this large district in the German capital was once enclosed on three sides by the Berlin Wall. But these days, it’s the rich street food and thrumming nightlife that keeps visitors captive. Combine these with a quirky, artsy vibe that contrasts with Berlin’s thriving nightclub and party scene — and you have an area that actually does embody the counterculture that the city is known for.


The best way to experience Kreuzberg is on foot or by bike. You’ll see locals pedaling along the wide sidewalks and streets — though the city’s very noticeable yellow subway cars pass through and connect the neighborhood with its surrounding districts. Even if you stay on the other side of town, getting in and out is both easy and worth the effort. Home to an array of new arrivals from Germany and abroad, Kreuzberg pulses with a revolutionary vibe that makes it both the hippest and most unique place to hang out on a visit to the German capital. Here’s how to take it all in.


Kreuzberg is a neighborhood of immigrants — and their cuisines.
Girl buying turkish street foodin Berlin, Kreuzberg

Photo: hanohiki/Shutterstock


Kreuzberg’s streets are lined with food vendors, complementing the stark architecture and the gritty, working-class vibe of the area. More than 200,000 Berlin residents claim Turkish descent, and Kreuzberg’s Turkish community is one of the world’s largest outside of Turkey itself. A visit to a kebab shop — any kebab shop — is a must. Among the most popular is Adana Grillhaus on Skalitzer Street. On Saturdays, the banks of the Landwehrkanal fill with stalls for the Turkish Market, where you shop for Turkish goods like rugs or taste a wide variety of grilled meats and sip on saklip, a hot and milky tea.


Also prominent in the neighborhood is the Korean community. A true wunderkind of Kreuzberg’s Korean population is Kimchi Princess. Here you can go all out and fry an octopus at your table — or, if that’s a bit much, savor the fragrant bibimbap (rice with meat and seasoned vegetables) in a hot stone bowl, knocked back with a shot of soju.


There’s also the Angry Chicken, which makes Korean-style fried chicken in varying degrees of anger from “happy” (no spice) to “furious” (volcanic). The chicken is reminiscent of what you’d find at a fried chicken shop in Seoul, though this is a fast food spot, so be ready for loads of grease. For something a bit more German, stop by Burgermeister for a patty or chili cheese fries served in a space that used to house a public toilet – but be prepared to wait in line.


It has biergartens and upside-down bars.
Crowd of people chilling out outdoors on a terrace restaurant

Photo: Cineberg/Shutterstock


Given Berlin’s notorious flatness, it’s unsurprising that its highest natural elevation is only 216 feet. The highest actual point is the 390-foot Teufelsberg, an artificial mountain built from the rubble of the city following the Second World War. Despite its underwhelming height, the setting of this peak, Viktoriapark, is well worth a visit. A towering waterfall cuts through forested grounds, a prime spot for people watching.


The park also includes a beer garden called Golgatha, a fantastic hangout for when the mercury peaks on the city’s sweltering summer days. Do as the Berliners do. Grab a beer and let life slow down a bit as you watch both tourists and local families make their way through the park.


Bar with upside down furniture in Berlin

Photo: Madame Claude Berlin/Facebook


This experience should inspire you to wander to another pub, and that pub should be Madame Claude. The spot is a former brothel, and the current owners decided it was a great idea to hang their furniture upside down to create the illusion of sitting on the ceiling. It’s weird at first, for sure, but this illusion becomes more convincing with each drink.


Madame Claude runs an open mic night on Sundays, where you could see anything from comedy singers to wailing beat poets. If you prefer drinking the right way up, the John Muir bar gives Kreuzberg an American twist with an expansive selection of bourbon and cocktails, the most popular being their punchy whiskey sour.


Some of Berlin’s best festivals happen here.
Happy young people on crowded street celebrating labor day in Berlin, Kreuzebrg

Photo: hanohiki/Shutterstock


“Anything can happen on May Day” is an oft-repeated phrase in the run-up to the celebrations on May 1, one of the liveliest days of the year in Kreuzberg. To celebrate the original “Labor Day,” locals pour onto the streets to join a left-wing protest or take part in the more peaceful partying of Myfest a few streets away. It’s more festive than righteous these days, with open-air concerts and currywurst stalls punctuated by the occasional sight of a Berliner crowdsurfing by on a sofa.


In early June, Kreuzberg’s roads are fenced off for the Karneval Der Kulturen, a four-day celebration of diversity. This culminates in a street parade on Pentecost Sunday, comprising everything from samba to rock bands to techno. Later in June, the Fête de la Musique takes place all over Berlin but is best enjoyed in Kreuzberg, which forgoes formal concerts in favor of spontaneous street performances by musicians from around the world.


The street art scene is vibrant.
a big mural on a building in the Kreuzberg district of Berlin

Photo: hanohiki/Shutterstock


The neighborhood is also a hotbed for vivid street art. Though Kreuzberg hosts top galleries like the Künstlerhaus Bethanien and Berlinische Galerie, it’s actually possible to view most of the neighborhood’s art outside on a walkabout. Kreuzberg’s street art scene fluctuates with time, as new paintings go up and others are removed by local authorities for one reason or another, or sometimes even the artists themselves. In fact, in 2014 Italian street artist Blu covered two of his famous murals in black paint to protest urban development policies.


You’re likely to see something new, something classic, and, in the neighborhood’s grand tradition, something totally wack. One work unlikely to be disappearing anytime soon is the Cold War-inspired Astronaut Cosmonaut by French artist Victor Ash, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary.


More like this: This border town between Germany and Denmark offers the best of both cultures


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Published on May 21, 2019 15:00

10 day hikes on the Isle of Skye

Even if you’ve never been there, you’ve probably seen the Isle of Skye. The stunning and otherworldly scenery of this Scottish island has been the film set for many movies and series. But the jagged mountains, craggy coastline, and eerie rock formations are not only visually arresting but also paradise for outdoor lovers, providing scrambling and climbing opportunities. In fact, the best way to experience the island’s spellbinding beauty is on foot, and Skye has spectacular hiking to suit anyone — ranging from stunning coastal ambles to rocky mountain scrambles. Here are the 10 best day hikes on Skye.


1. Neist Point — two miles round-trip, one-1.5 hours, easy
Isle of Skye coastal landscape

Photo: Targn Pleiades/Shutterstock


This hike to the iconic lighthouse at Neist Point is located on the most westerly headland on Skye. The trail descends gently across open, grassy terrain but evolves into quite a steep, stair-assisted plummet in the middle. On the return, that plummet makes for a steep ascent of over 400 feet.


The most appealing aspect of this hike is the omnipresent sweeping coastal vista. The impressive view stretches across the ocean to the islands of the Outer Hebrides, and you might even spot whales and dolphins in summer if you’re lucky. Round-trip walking time is around 45 minutes, but it’s worth allowing extra time to explore the lighthouse, picnic, and watch for sea life.


2. Old Man of Storr — 2.75 miles round-trip, 1.5-two hours, moderate
The fairytale landscape of the Trotternish peninsula on the Isle of Skye in the Highlands of Scotland

Photo: Joe Dunckley/Shutterstock


If you had to pick just one landmark to represent the mystical beauty of Skye, the iconic Old Man of Storr would be it. This spectacular 165-foot-high free-standing rock is one of many massive rock features populating the green slopes of the Trotternish peninsula. The Storr summit, and its sheer rocky cliffs, form the no-less-impressive backdrop to the vista.


This hike is relentlessly uphill from the start, and you’ll ascend around 950 feet to reach the towering Old Man itself. From this vantage point, you’ll have vast, 180-degree views across the ocean, over the Isles of Rona and Raasay, and on to the Applecross peninsula on the mainland. Happily, you can keep gazing at the view as you descend by the same path. This is probably the most popular walk on Skye, so if you are visiting in summer, it’s best to go early in the morning to avoid the crowds.


3. Quiraing loop — four miles round-trip, three-four hours, moderate
Girl hiking in the Quiraing,Quiraing,Isle of Skye,Scotland

Photo: Mattia Querci/Shutterstock


Ancient landslides are responsible for the otherworldly appearance of the Quiraing, an undulating landscape that’s peppered with towering rock pinnacles, oddly shaped grassy domes, wild cliffs, and hidden plateaus. Add the ubiquitous Skye ocean views to the mix, and the Quiraing is a hike that has it all.


Starting at the top of the winding single-track road on the ridge of Skye’s north-pointing Trotternish Peninsula, this circular hike leads you on a tough uphill slog to a grassy plateau. From high above, there are sensational 360-degree views of the island and its peculiar terrain. Head down the other side of the hill and onto the main trail. This winds along beneath the summit, revealing new, cockeyed rock towers with names like the Needle and the Prison.


To avoid the 1,200-foot ascent, you could just walk as far as you like along the winding, flat main trail. This option is popular with keen photographers wanting to capture the vista south along the ridge from the Quiraing, the subject of one of Scotland’s most iconic photographs.


4. Fairy Glen — one mile round-trip, 45 minutes-hour, easy
Stone circle made by tourists at fairy Glen, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Photo: Andreas Gerhardinger/Shutterstock


The Fairy Glen is a less popular, small-scale version of the dramatic Trotternish Peninsula landscape. Numerous trails weave around little grassy mounds, cone-shaped hills, and the odd lochan (pond). The hiking here is more free-flowing and explorative and less about following a particular path. That said, all adventures must culminate in a small scramble up a rock formation called Castle Ewan — which really does look like the ruins of an old tower. You might indeed expect a fairy to be weaving magic in this bizarre but charming landscape.


From the Castle Ewan vantage point, you might notice some curious man-made rock spirals. They may add to the mystical vibes of the Fairy Glen, but locals ask that you don’t add to it due to the environmental damage caused. There is no formal visitors’ parking lot, so it’s a good idea to take the shuttle bus from Portree, the main town on the island.


5. Fairy Pools — 1.5 miles round-trip, 40 minutes, easy
The Fairy Pools, Glen Brittle, Skye, Scotland

Photo: orxy/Shutterstock


The popularity of this hike exploded a couple of years ago after a photo of the beautiful River Brittle and one if its waterfalls went viral. It takes just one glimpse of the bewitching turquoise water to understand why.


The hiking trail starts on the opposite side of the road of the forestry parking lot. Simply amble along the river, over undulating moorland, and past pools and waterfalls. In summer you’ll find people lazing beside the stream, “wild swimming” in the pools, or picnicking on the grass. Most people aim to reach the main waterfall, which takes around 40 minutes for the round trip and is magical even on a misty day. Given the popularity of the Fairy Pools, it’s best to visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon when the pools will be quieter.


6. Rubha Hunish — five miles round-trip, three-four hours, moderate
Rubha Hunish, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Photo: 4 season backpacking/Shutterstock


This beautiful, peaceful trail leads you out to Skye’s most northerly tip. A relatively flat path traverses moorlands until reaching a steep and rocky descent. The walking becomes easy again as you make a circuit of the Rubha Hunish headland. You’ll be walking along some sheer sea cliffs at times, so stay well away from the edge, no matter how tempting the view.


There’s a sense of spaciousness and tranquility out at the tip of the headland, staring out at the ocean and nothingness. This might have something to do with the remote location, which also makes Rubha Hunish one of the quieter walks on Skye. You’re likely to have only wildlife for company; seals, otters, whales, and dolphins are often sighted. The return path is back up the rocky ascent and then either back over the moorlands, or along the Duntulm Bay coastal path. Afterward, grab a slice of congratulatory cake at nearby Single Track Espresso.


7. Coire Lagan — 5.5 miles round-trip, three-four hours, moderate to strenuous
Coire Lagan, Glen Brittle, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Photo: Tyler W. Stipp/Shutterstock


Coire Lagan is a small glacial pool tucked away in an elevated valley, surrounded by the awe-inspiring Cuillin mountains. A string of jagged angry-looking peaks, the Cuillins are one of Skye’s most famous landmarks, attracting avid mountain climbers and hikers skilled with map and compass. This trail is a wonderful way to get up close to the imposing mountains without tackling a technical mountain ascent. Although strenuous at times, the hike will not require any belaying gear.


Beginning at a pretty beach in Glen Brittle, a well-defined path gradually ascends into the mountains. The trickiest part of the hike ensues: a rocky scramble up a steep gully below the entrance to Coire Lagan. Once over the rim, the tiny clear blue pool is right at your feet. Being nestled up high in the ring of towering peaks gives the effect of being in a huge amphitheater on the roof of the world.


8. Loch Coruisk — 4.5 miles round-trip, three-3.5 hours, easy
Woman at Isle of Skye, Scotland, UK

Photo: Alexey Fedorenko/Shutterstock


This hike is spectacular, but the drive to its start point alone is pretty epic. Channel James Bond in Skyfall as you drive down a dramatic single-track road, weaving around imposing mountains and sweeping around sea lochs. Parking is in the picture-perfect fishing village of Elgol, which has tremendous views across the ocean to the craggy Cuillin mountains.


From here, catch the ferry across to the base of the mountains where the Loch Coruisk trail starts. You’re pretty much guaranteed to see seals on the way over. It’s best to pre-book spots on one of the ferries, either the Bella Jane or Misty Isle, to avoid missing out.


There’s no road access to Loch Coruisk, so once off the ferry, you’ll have the distinct feeling of being away from it all. This leaves plenty of space for introspection on the relatively flat loop around the mountain-ringed loch. The views are terrific, but the terrain can be boggy and the rocks slippery, so you’ll need sturdy shoes. Just be sure to make it back in time to get the return ferry home.


9. Sgurr na Stri — 15 miles round-trip, seven-eight hours, strenuous
Sgurr na stri summit in the Cuillin mountains on the isle of Skye, Scotland

Photo: Ryan Mark Szydlowski/Shutterstock


Sgurr na Stri is a relatively small mountain, fewer than 1,600 feet high, hidden at the end of a beautiful narrow valley. The trail starts at Sligachan, where there’s a lone hotel with a famous whisky bar — a good incentive on the return leg of this strenuous hike. Striking out into the deep glen, the path is mostly flat and easygoing, albeit long. Many mountains unfold and evolve on either side of the trail as it progresses through the valley, until it reaches the base of Sgurr na Stri. The ascent, while not strenuous, is rocky, and the path is not always clearly marked. It’s a hike suited to those with experience navigating.


The summit affords one of the most epic views in the United Kingdom. A sweeping vista of mountains, lochs, ocean, and sky rises into view as you finally reach the top. The most spectacular frame is the one looking out over Loch Coruisk to the jagged black Cuillins beyond. The long and tiring walk back to the car is more than worth enduring for this view alone.


10. Blaven — five miles round-trip, four hours, strenuous
Sun on Bla Bheinn peak outlier of Black Cuillin Hills

Photo: Reimar/Shutterstock


Serious hikers travel from far and wide for a chance to tackle the Cuillins, a mountain range notorious and bucket-list worthy for its challenging and technical ascents. As far as the Cuillins go, hiking up Blaven (Bla Bheinn, in Gaelic) is relatively easy but still suitable for more experienced hikers. The weather can change at a moment’s notice, so come prepared for all seasons. As always, make sure you tell someone where you’re going.


With about 3,000 feet to ascend, the hike is relentlessly uphill from start to summit. The path from the parking lot near Loch Slapin is initially well-formed, but more careful navigation is required when you reach the scree, or loose stone, slopes. A little rock climbing after the scree and voila: breathtaking (literally) expansive views in all directions that’ll have you in a continuous 360-degree twirl. Blaven is the only isolated black Cuillin mountain. The upshot of its lonely position is that its summit provides unrivaled views of the main Cuillin group.


More like this: 3 epic hikes you need to do on Norway’s Lofoten Islands


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Published on May 21, 2019 14:30

Sherpa climbs Everest twice in week

This piece of news might be a bit discouraging for Everest-trekking hopefuls whose longtime bucket-list item has been to scale Everest just once in their life. Of course, that’s still a pretty incredible accomplishment, but to this guy, it’s just another day at the office. Kami Rita, a Nepalese mountain climber and sherpa, has climbed the tallest mountain in the world a record 24 times — and even more impressively, twice just this past week.


Just three days after his 23rd summit, he began climbing again, leading a team of Indian police officers. He completed his 24th climb on Tuesday morning. May offers prime conditions for summiting Everest, so it’s no surprise that his legendary double climb happened this month. This season, 381 people have been granted permits to carry out expeditions on the mountain, and as of this week, 75 climbers have reached the top.


Everest isn’t the only mountain Rita has tackled. He’s also climbed nearby K2 and Cho-Oyu in the Himalayas. And the 49-year-old veteran hiker isn’t finished with Everest, either. Although he has been climbing the mountain since 1994, he has expressed his desire to summit the mountain at least one more time before he retires, bringing his total to a neat 25.

H/T: NPR




More like this: 10 things I wish I knew before trekking Mount Everest Base Camp


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Published on May 21, 2019 14:00

Britain is the drunkest country

It’s no secret that residents of some countries are more seasoned drinkers than others. Whether that’s a legitimate accomplishment or not, we’ll leave for you to decide. But there’s no denying that when it comes to alcohol consumption, not all countries are created equal.


Well, now it’s more than just rumor and braggadocio. A new survey of nearly 125,000 people across 36 countries has determined which country gets drunk the most, and in results that will perhaps surprise no one, the UK came out on top.


According to The Global Drug Survey, British participants reported getting drunk an average of 51 times each during the past 12 months, while the global average is just 33 times per 12 months. The US fell just shy of the top mark, with an average of 50 during the last year, and Canadians and Australians followed with 38 and 47, respectively. Portugal brought up the rear, reporting getting drunk only 20 times during the past year.


It is, however, important to note the survey’s Western bias. Eighty-seven percent of those polled were white, and 25 European countries were represented compared to just one from Africa and Asia.


Adam Winstock, the survey’s founder, didn’t seem too surprised by the results. “In the UK we don’t tend to do moderation,” he said. “We end up getting drunk as the point of the evening. Until culture changes and we become more European and moderate in our drinking, we might have to bite the bullet and think about how to advise people to get drunk drinking less.”

H/T: Bustle




More like this: 9 spirits you can only drink outside the US


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Published on May 21, 2019 13:30

The best gelato shops in Bologna

Gelato is one of Italy’s most famous desserts. Silkier and thicker in texture than ice cream, there’s nothing more satisfying on a hot Italian day than slurping on an indulgent scoop of the stuff. Plus, gelato has less cream and sugar than ice cream, so it at least sounds healthier.


However, not all Italian gelato is created equal. For a taste of the finest artisan gelato in the land, gelato lovers must delve into the heart of the northern Italian region of Emilia Romagna. Here, you’ll find the lively medieval city of Bologna, also known, tantalizingly, as “the fat one.” And for good reason. Bologna is home to more than 100 gelaterias, a gelato museum, and a gelato university. The local Bolognesi will tell you that you can’t go wrong with classic flavors like pistacchio, nocciola, and stracciatella to name a few. Better still, most gelaterie produce their own unique flavor creations, well worth the indulgence of an extra scoop.


Choosing which gelaterias to visit, let alone which flavors to try, can trigger the FOMO in even the most determined of gelato aficionados. The number one thing to avoid is the gelaterias with neon-colored gelato piled high in the window, typically found next to major tourist attractions. Real gelato has far more natural-looking coloring. Thankfully in Bologna, there are far more places offering the real deal than not. We’ve taken the stress out of the gelato headache with our guide to the finest gelaterias in Bologna.


Cremeria Funivia for classy, chic gelato
Cremeria Funivia

Photo: Cremeria Funivia/Facebook


Opening the door to Cremeria Funivia is a heavenly experience. You’re met with the soothing, chic white interior and the smell of happiness. The downside is that this gelateria is often incredibly busy and has a long lines of gelato lovers waiting. Not to worry. The line moves surprisingly fast, and the staff is happy to offer tastings if you find yourself at the counter without a decision.


Unique to Cremeria Funivia is the dreamy lemon peel, ricotta, and biscuit flavor called Cavour. Another favorite is San Luca, a gelato of white chocolate and crispy puffed rice. But the best selection on the menu is the genius Focaccia con Gelato, an indulgent brioche sandwich with three scoops of your choice. Cremeria Funivia is located on the fringe of Piazza Cavour, a tranquil, olive-tree-adorned garden square. Grab a shady spot by the pond, which is perfect for savoring your gelato on a hot day.


Where: Via Porrettana 158, 40135 Bologna


Cremeria Santo Stefano for experimental, world-class gelato
Cremeria Santo Stefano

Photo: Cremeria Santo Stefano/Facebook


The small and unassuming old-world shopfront of Cremeria Santo Stefano is tucked away under one of Bologna’s many iconic porticos. You’d probably walk past it were it not for the queue winding around the corner. The interior is a delightful throwback to the parlors of yesteryear with checkerboard tiles, old-world fonts, and a rustic interior.


Santo Stefano is considered by some to be one of the best gelaterias not just in Bologna but in the world. The shop makes exceptional traditional flavors but also gets experimental, producing combinations like buffalo camembert with peppers for those with adventurous palates. The must-try gelato here is speculoos, which is chock full of the spiced shortbread cookie taste that will be familiar to cookie butter fans.


Where: Via Santo Stefano 70/c, 40125 Bologna


Gelateria Gianni for great gelato, no matter where you are
Gelateria Gianni

Photo: Gelateria Gianni/Facebook


Wander the streets of Bologna and you’ll find numerous Gelateria Gianni shops, meaning you’ll never be far from great gelato. The shops are accommodating to English speakers and provide a translated menu board. This proves helpful for Italian speakers too, as the scintillating gelato names often give little indication of their contents.


The gelato that’ll haunt your dreams is the thrillingly named Samauri, a dangerously rich and creamy concoction of mascarpone, cacao, and silky ricotta. The shop on Via Monte Grappa is conveniently close to the magnificent central square, Piazza Maggiore. It’s a great location to retreat to, Samauri in hand, to perch on the steps and watch the birds and Bolognesi go about their daily lives.


Where: Via Monte Grappa 11/a, 40121 Bologna


La Sorbetteria Castiglione for rich gelato with old-world charm
Italian gelato with a plate of cookies

Photo: La “Sorbetteria Castiglione”/Facebook


Popular with locals, La Sorbetteria Castiglione has gorgeous old-world parlor vibes and more than a touch of a Willy Wonka atmosphere. Gelato lovers are invited to peep through the glass to watch the magic of gelato creation unfold in the kitchen. This delightful distraction has left many a gelato aficionado unprepared for making their flavor selection upon reaching the front of the queue.


The Dolce Emma flavor is incredibly indulgent. It oozes generously with sweet caramelized figs and is laced with ricotta. Chocolate lovers should try Gianduia, a decadent hazelnut and chocolate concoction that’s reminiscent of Nutella.


At the grand old age of 25, La Sorbetteria Castiglione is one of the longest-established and most famous gelaterias in Bologna. Local legend has it that, prior to La Sorbetteria Castiglione, it was difficult to get good gelato in Bologna.


Where: Via Castiglione 44 d/e, 40124 Bologna


Galliera 49 for gelato with an environmental conscience
Gelateria Galliera 49

Photo: Gelateria Galliera 49/Facebook


This tiny, street-facing canteen produces gelato from fair trade ingredients and uses sustainably produced, compostable coppettas (cups). There’s no waiting in line at Galliera 49. When it’s busy, you take a number. This is advantageous as it leaves you free to dart restlessly from cabinet to cabinet, trying desperately to choose flavors before placing your order when your number shows on the display.


The perfectly balanced salted caramel (caramello salato) is the flavor to try here. But, if you’re having trouble deciding, you might take advantage of a gelato brioche: another sandwich indulgence allowing you to taste three flavors. Enjoy your gelato ecstasy while wandering around the castle ruins in nearby Parco della Montagnola.


Where: Via Galliera 49/b, Bologna 40121


Stefino for innovative, dietary-restriction-friendly gelato
Gelateria Stefino

Photo: Gelateria Stefino/Facebook


Dairy-intolerant, gluten-free, and vegan dessert lovers won’t want to miss out at Stefino. In fact, the sheer breadth of vegan choices creates a decision-making nightmare for those who are usually faced with none. The plant-based chocolate gelato, cioccolato, is a truly magnificent place to start. Rows of granita and sorbet further expand the dessert possibilities for those with dietary requirements.


Stefino’s approach to gelato is avant-garde — it’s not afraid of imaginative flavor combinations or using unexpected ingredients like wasabi. There’s also more traditional dairy-based flavors not to be missed like pistacchio and nocciola. With organic products and gelato that’s lower in sugar and fat, you could almost argue that Stefino’s gelato is healthy. Another coppetta, anyone?


Where: Via San Vitale 37/a, 40125 Bologna


More like this: The 9 desserts you need to try in Italy that aren’t gelato


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Published on May 21, 2019 13:00

Dubai airport DJ program

Airport” and “rave” aren’t exactly two terms that go hand-in-hand, but that’s about to change courtesy of Dubai International Airport (DXB). If you find yourself getting frustrated as you trek through the airport to your gate, sleepy as you stand in line at security, or easily irritated in the crowds of other travelers, this new resident DJ program might just lift your spirits.


As part of the airport’s #musicDXB program, DXB has partnered with DJ duo Hollaphonic to set up a monthly concert for air travelers. The program kicked off this past March with a St. Patrick’s Day bash in Concourse D.


DJs will perform on different stages throughout the airport, choosing performance locations depending on which area is busiest at the time. And of course, the whole experience is free. This may be good news for those who want to enjoy some thumping house music before a flight, but not so great news for travelers looking for a nap or a little peace and quiet.


Olly Wood, co-founder, executive producer, and half of the DJ duo, told Time Out Dubai, “The team at DXB have really cool visions about how far this can go — whatever idea someone thinks is the best, craziest and most unthinkable: that’s what we’re aiming for. This is the first considered music campaign that any airport in the world has done.”


To keep the music fresh, the plan is to have a rotation of acts in the airport, creating a unique platform for emerging acts all around the world.

H/T: The Points Guy




More like this: The 10 best airports in Europe to travel through


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Published on May 21, 2019 12:30

Field of Light in Paso Robles

It may look like a field of fireflies or something out of a fantasy movie, but it’s actually the latest (and largest) installation of artist Bruce Munro’s “Field of Light.” Gracing the Paso Robles’ Sensorio gardens in California, the installation includes over 58,000 glowing stemmed spheres connected by solar-powered, fiber-optic strands.


Visitors can wander the paths through the installation, and watch as the colors change in a surreal spectacle of light. Munro is a former commercial lighting designer, so this certainly isn’t his first foray into the world of illumination. He was inspired by visiting Uluru, in Australia’s Northern Territory, and created his first “field of light” in the early 2000s. In this case, the lights were assembled by a team in the UK before being shipped to the US and planted among the hills. Munro’s created similar installations in Arizona, Australia, Scotland, Denmark, and South Korea.


“It’s really like being a painter,” he told the San Francisco Chronicle, “but your canvas is the landscape and you’re working on a slightly different scale. It’s almost like three-dimensional impressionism. It’s this gentle pointillist landscape of rippling color.”


You can visit the Paso Robles installation from May 19 until January 5, 2020. General admission costs between $18 and $24, with VIP tickets reaching up to $125.

H/T: San Francisco Chronicle




More like this: The 7 most incredible museums to visit in 2019


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Published on May 21, 2019 12:00

Best LGBTQ friendly cruises

If you prefer to spend your vacations exploring rugged coastlines and picturesque towns on board a trendy cruise line, you’re not alone. According to the Florida-Caribbean Cruise Association, around 25 million people take to the seas on a cruise ship each year — with a fairly large portion of those people being from the LGBTQ+ community. Whether you’re looking for the cruise line offering the longest list of amenities or you’d rather pick a cruise line that ventures to interesting and diverse locales around the globe, we’ve uncovered the best LGBTQ-friendly cruise lines that offer desirable attractions for every queer customer.


From cruise lines like RSVP Vacations that cater specifically to the LGBTQ+ community to mainstream fleets from Princess Cruises, these are the cruise lines that work hard to ensure that each queer customer comes back for seconds. These are the best LGBTQ-friendly cruise lines in the world.


1. Azamara Club Cruises

For those who perhaps enjoy the excursions more than the actual cruise itself, Azamara Club Cruises provides the perfect chance to explore unknown destinations without spending too much time on the cruise ship. Not only that, but along with its Destination Immersion program, Azamara Club Cruises is especially LGBTQ-friendly, receiving a perfect rating on the Human Rights Campaign’s Corporate Equality Index. If you’ve ever looked into booking an LGBTQ cruise, it’s likely that at least a few of them were headquartered on board an Azamara Club cruise.


2. RSVP Vacations
Three people in a pool on a RSVP Vacations cruise ship

Photo: RSVP Vacations/Facebook


Since 1985, RSVP Vacations has managed to maintain a prominent spot among the best LGBTQ-focused vacation companies. From the moment you step on an RSVP cruise, you’ll be inundated with queer culture — from the community involved to the themed activities on board. And, speaking of onboard activities, guests can expect gay-positive entertainment and entertainers like live cabaret performances, comedians, and screenings of current LGBTQ films. This summer, you can take part in RSVP Vacations’ Summer in Alaska cruise, leaving on July 14 and taking guests through the waters surrounding the majestic 49th state.


3. Aquafest Cruises

Unlike other LGBTQ cruise lines, Aquafest Cruises offers a more intimate approach to cruise vacations. By immersing its small group of LGBTQ guests in with other guests on board larger ocean liners, it allows them to socialize with others outside of their group if they so desire. Or, if you dislike hopping on a cruise with strangers, grab a few close friends and embark upon a smaller luxury cruise hosted by Aquafest Cruises — still packed with fun and LGBTQ-themed excursions. To get a true taste of the fun to be had on an Aquafest cruise, purchase your tickets for the Halloween cruise — a celebration of all things wicked on board a luxury liner.


4. Celebrity Cruises
Celebrity Cruises ship

Photo: Celebrity Cruises/Facebook


More recently, Celebrity Cruises has been home to a number of onboard same-sex wedding ceremonies, and this is just one of the many ways that this cruise line is appealing to its prospective LGBTQ customers. Due to the number of LGBTQ events offered by the cruise line — like the Pride Party at Sea, a celebration of Pride month taking place on a cruise ship that spends a week showing guests around Spain, France, and Italy — it has been the one large cruise line to win the Best Large-Ship Cruise Line for LGBTQ Passengers at the Cruizie Awards four years in a row.


5. Olivia Cruises

If you’re a lesbian who enjoys going on cruises to meet other members of the LGBTQ community, then Olivia Cruises will never fail to meet your criteria. From Japan to Iceland, Olivia Cruises is happy to send you off on a luxury ocean liner with hundreds of other lesbians to mingle and create everlasting memories with — one exotic excursion at a time. Whether you opt to keep the cruise experience more intimate or not, you can expect to sit back, relax, and enjoy onboard entertainment like concerts, comedy shows, dancing, casino games, and singles’ activities.


6. Princess Cruises
Princess Cruises ship

Photo: Princess Cruises/Facebook


If you have yet to determine what kind of cruiser you are (or if you haven’t yet set sail on a cruise), then Princess Cruises has an impressive variety of itineraries and unexplored ports throughout the world. For the LGBTQ passenger, Princess Cruises also hosts a number of gay and lesbian cruises — even serving aforementioned RSVP Cruises on occasion.


7. Crystal Cruises

If luxury vacations are your speed then check out Crystal Cruises. While on board a Crystal cruise, you’ll experience some of the highest quality services in the cruise ship industry, especially since, according to Cruise Critic, Crystal Cruises operates on “an all-inclusive model with one of the highest passenger-to-staff and passenger-to-space ratios in the industry.” The cruise ship line also prides itself on being one of the most inclusive companies in the travel industry, often catering to large groups of LGBTQ travelers interested in its immersive 17-day theatre- and film-themed cruises.


8. Emerald Waterways
Emerald Waterways ship in Portugal

Photo: Emerald Waterways/Facebook


If you’re especially interested in European travel, check out Emerald Waterways. From Budapest, Hungary, to Antwerp, Belgium, Emerald Waterways offers up a chance for LGBTQ passengers to enjoy cruises along the most beautiful waterways in Europe — along with a chance to experience the unique queer culture of each destination.


9. Holland America Line

Holland America Line, the sister cruise line of Canard, offers a more traditional cruise experience for all of its passengers — including those in the LGBTQ community. As Cruise Critic points out, Holland America supports several queer organizations like the National LGBTQ Task Force and the San Diego LGBT Community Center. Not only that, the Holland America Line often hosts smaller cruises organized by LGBTQ+ cruise companies, like the aforementioned Olivia Cruises.


10. Royal Caribbean International
Royal Caribbean International ship

Photo: Royal Caribbean International /Facebook


More so than any other major cruise line, the Royal Caribbean International cruise line offers a plethora of cruise options for the LGBTQ passenger. In 2019 and 2020, members of the LGBTQ community can look forward to trips to every corner of the globe — from Cuba to Barcelona. If you need more reasons to book a cruise with Royal Caribbean International, just know that it scored a perfect rating on the Human Rights Campaign’s Corporate Equality Index and has hosted a number of inspiring queer events over the past few years.


More like this: The 25 best LGBTQ bars and nightclubs in the US


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Published on May 21, 2019 09:30

All about Lyon's cuisine

When thinking about French cuisine, foreigners often consider beef bourguignon, ratatouille, and croissants. They rarely think cervelle de canut, tablier de sapeur, or praline. And yet, these foods and dishes are just as famous all over France, and they have one thing in common: a connection to Lyon, a hotspot of French gastronomy that locals sometimes call “the stomach of France.”


At 10:00 AM in Lyon’s Croix-Rousse district, the hallmarks of the city’s food are already apparent. In the bakery Boulangerie des Chartreux, waste collectors in orange vests snack on coffee and tarte à la praline. Downhill, in restaurants called bouchon that specialize in Lyonnaise cuisine, kitchens help whip up enough Nantua sauce to serve with the day’s quenelles. All over town, if the sun is out and exams are over, students will get picnic-ready, making cervelle de canut from scratch or buying a nice sausage called rosette de Lyon on their way to the park.


What makes cuisine Lyonnaise so iconic for the French is not technique, nor some chef’s world-famous name. It’s the locals’ obsession with it, the strong sense of identity it gives them, and the stories behind it — some relatable, some bordering on epic. All of these stories make Lyon what it is today: a thriving economic center and a UNESCO World Heritage site.


In 1935, the famous food critic Maurice Edmond Sailland (better known as Curnonski, or by his nickname “Prince of Gastronomy”) declared that Lyon was the World’s Capital of Gastronomy. The title stuck, at least in France. The French come to Lyon for the local cuisine and bring food items back home.


To begin to understand why, you must start with a three-course meal.


Appetizer: cervelle de canut (“silk workers’ brain”)
Cervelle de canut

Photo: Fanfo/Shutterstock


Cervelle de canut has a bit of an unappetizing name to those not in the know, but the history explains it all.


In the early 1800s, La Croix-Rousse was a working-class area where blue-collar silk workers made the products that built Lyon’s fame and fortune. They were, in a derogatory manner, called canuts. Every morning, the canuts took a break and shared a meal of mâchons — a platter of local snacks, such as red wine, tripes, saucisson (dry sausage), and what they called claqueret, which was a seasoned mix of creamy cow and goat cheeses.


The canuts revolted against poor working conditions in the 1830s. Hundreds died as the bourgeoisie turned against the working class in Croix-Rousse. During the revolt, according to local folklore, the bourgeoisie started calling the claqueret part of the canut meal “cervelle de canut,” or canut’s brain. Another theory is that calling the cheese dish cervelle de canut mocked the canut’s poverty since they couldn’t afford meat-based meals.


The silk workers lost their fight. Cervelle de canut, however, became famous in the process. Today, nobody in Lyon uses the term claqueret anymore: cervelle de canut is the only and right name for it, and the word canut at the end of it is said with pride.


Main course: tablier de sapeur (“sapper’s apron”)
Tripe

Photo: Solarisys/Shutterstock


The story of tablier de sapeur is about a sapper (a combat engineer in the army) named Boniface de Castellane and a strong woman named Léa Bidaut.


In the mid-1800s, Castellane was the military governor of Lyon, where he earned a reputation among locals as a man with an unreasonable appetite for tripe. The tripe dish of Lyon was made with a marinated and fried piece of gras-double, which is primarily the outer lining of a cow’s rumen (the first of the four cow stomachs).


The best recipe for tablier de sapeur is said to be Léa Bidaut’s. La Mère Léa was one of the famous mères lyonnaises (“Lyonnaise mothers”). These women of modest upbringing, formerly employed as cooks in bourgeois households, opened bistros and restaurants in Lyon from the late 18th century well into the 20th century. They served comfort food to blue-collar workers, and it was so good that it soon attracted more well-to-do gourmands and critics from all over France. These women literally invented Lyon’s cuisine.


Bidaut retired in 1981 and died in 1996 at 88 years old. Her restaurant, La Voûte, chez Léa, is still around and still serves her tablier de sapeur. People remember her as an independent-minded and quick-tempered woman, who rummaged for discarded items at Saint-Antoine Market to make wonderful dishes out of them while saving every penny she could. Above all, people remember the cart she would push around at the market. She had hung a sign on it that read, Attention, faible femme, mais forte en gueule — which roughly translates as “Beware: weak woman, but hell of a strong-voiced one.”


Dessert: tarte à la praline (“praline tart”)
Homemade pink praline tart, almond tart

Photo: iuliia_n/Shutterstock


Tarte à la praline allegedly dates back to a 17th-century cook named Clément Jaluzot, who worked for the Count of Plessis-Praslin. One day, he saw an employee with almonds in one hand and sugar in the other, eating both at the same time. The cook thought it was a great idea, so he glazed almonds in red-colored sugar and served them at a dinner. The guests loved it so much that the Count of Plessis-Praslin started to brag that he invented the recipe. So the cook had no choice but to name it after the Count, and it came to be known as praline.


It was further popularized a century later by Françoise Guilloud and her baker husband, Pierre Labully, from the nearby town of Saint-Genix-sur-Guiers. Guilloud gave him her family recipe for a brioche decorated with pralines. The baker sold it as gâteau de Saint Genix (cake of Saint Genix), and his customers loved it — especially the pralines. When Labully’s son took over the family business, he put lots of pralines inside the dough — a bold move that paved the way to the modern praline extravaganza in Lyon’s cuisine.


Lyon’s bakeries today sell all sorts of praline-based desserts such as the iconic tarte à la praline. You will also find an excellent, high-end version of brioche à la praline at the Pralus bakeries; there is one in Croix-Rousse and every Sunday morning, people line up in front of it, often leaving the shelves empty by 11:00 AM.


More like this: 7 European “second cities” that are even better than the major city


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Published on May 21, 2019 09:00

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