Matador Network's Blog, page 101
October 18, 2024
On Virgin’s Celebration Voyages, You Can Rub Elbows With Richard Branson, Astronauts, and More

As a former “never cruiser,” I once believed all big ship cruises and cruise lines were relatively the same. Sure, some had differences like adults dressed as cartoon mice, but I was under the impression that no matter the ship, there would be engorged Americans in their Thanksgiving pants staggering away from midnight buffets, and octogenarians in Hawaiian shirts trying to recapture their youth. I avoided cruises for years based on those assumptions. But since my first cruise with Virgin Voyages in 2022, I’ve learned the stereotypes aren’t universal.
Virgin Voyages launched in 2021 as the sole adults-only major cruise line in the United States. After my first Virgin cruise, I returned again this year and was similarly impressed. Buffets are replaced with elevated restaurants, and there are no single-use plastics onboard. The company launched Celebration Voyages in 2023, which take things a step further when it comes to immersing in all things Virgin, and I joined for the follow up in 2024. There are TED Talk-style speaker sessions, sustainability-focused shore excursions hosted by senior Virgin leadership, and special guests like Sir Richard Branson himself. I was even lucky enough to hear his firsthand thoughts on the Virgin brand, disrupting the cruise industry, and Celebration Voyages.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Virgin Voyages (@virginvoyages)
“Our purpose of changing business for good is rooted in every decision we make,” Branson tells me. “I think that’s why Virgin fans are so loyal and enthusiastic about special moments like Celebration Voyages. It’s an opportunity for us to welcome them as part of our Virgin family through exclusive events and activities, with the very people that have helped shape the brand they’ve come to love.”
While Celebration Voyages will have different events and speakers each year, here’s an idea of what you can expect.
Party like it’s 1983After founding Virgin Records in 1970, Branson went on to start over a dozen other successful ventures, including Virgin Atlantic, Virgin Mobile, Virgin Hotels, and now Virgin Voyages. With more than 50 years in the travel, media, and consumer space, it’s not surprising that Virgin has a large and loyal fanbase.
Celebration Voyages are basically weeklong festivals at sea celebrating the Virgin brand, and while they certainly cater to Virgin fans, they’re for the Virgin virgin too. First launched in 2023 with a single sailing, Celebration Voyages returned in 2024 with three separate itineraries on three different Virgin ships. The voyage I went on, called French Daze and Ibiza Nights, was a seven-day, round-trip journey starting in Barcelona with stops in Marseilles, Cannes, Mallorca, and Ibiza. Sure, you could lose yourself in the glamor of the French Riviera or the delirium of Ibiza’s nightlife and easily forget about the lively activities happening right outside your cabin door – but you would be doing yourself a disservice.
Since this is, after all, a celebration of all things Virgin, you might as well dive right into the brand history. Don’t worry, these aren’t boring business school lectures. They’re a series of sessions onboard where Virgin senior leadership pulls back the curtain on the storied company’s decades-long journey. You’ll learn about Branson’s rise to quirky billionaire mogul status, how Virgin Voyages is disrupting and changing the crowded cruise industry, and Virgin Galactic’s ambitious plans for space travel.

Photo: Virgin Voyages
And if you’ve always wanted to meet an astronaut, this is your chance. In addition to speaker sessions where Virgin Galactic astronauts tell firsthand accounts of traveling to space (and answer your burning questions), they also popped up around the ship in more casual, approachable settings. Imagine my surprise when I showed up to trivia and bingo nights and found the games being co-hosted by astronauts.

Photo: Virgin Voyages
It wouldn’t be a true Virgin celebration, however, without Sir Richard Branson himself. He made a special appearance on the pool deck for an intimate chat with passengers, where he told stories and answered questions about the Virgin brand.
When I told him my travel friends often make fun of me for taking cruises because of the age-old stigma that “cruises are for old people,” he replied, “Oh, bollocks! Tell them that those days are gone. We’ve come a long way with our focus on the young and young at heart, and travelers are loving Virgin Voyages’s fresh take.”

Photo: Virgin Voyages
The voyage’s festivities culminated on Scarlet Night – the designated “party” night on all Virgin Voyages sailings, where everyone dresses in red – at a pool party DJ’d by Boy George of Culture Club fame. No, he didn’t just play Karma Chameleon on repeat for three hours. Sporting the flamboyant 1980s style he’s famous for, George spun a diverse mix of house music and throwbacks to keep the ship rocking until…well, let’s just say it was past most Royal Caribbean passengers’ bedtimes.
“You could feel the energy and excitement across all three ships,” Branson said, “and I only see next year’s voyages making more of a splash.”
Take the celebration to the shore
Photo: Michael Potts F1/Shutterstock
The celebration isn’t just contained to the ship, either. For many cruisers (like myself), the ship is mostly a vessel for exploring new ports on shore excursions. While all voyages have plenty of excursions (Virgin calls them “Shore Things”) to choose from, Celebration Voyages throw a few more exciting options into the mix.
On Celebration Voyages, many Shore Things are led by Virgin executives or partners. That includes VIPs like Virgin Galactic astronauts and the CEO of Virgin Voyages. It also includes sustainability-focused tours run by Virgin’s nonprofit organizations, like Virgin Unite. Just in case I didn’t quite get enough astronaut exposure on the ship, I had the option to join Virgin Galactic astronauts on a variety of Shore Things, including wine tasting in Cannes, Mallorca, and Ibiza, and chocolate sampling in Bruges.
Virgin breaks the fourth wall between the staff and passengers with the Shore Things on its Celebration Voyages. In Puerto Plata, passengers could take a cooking class alongside Virgin Voyages Chief Operations Officer Michelle Buntubo, or go on a vintage car tour with Virgin Innovator David Tait. They could also see the iconic Monte Carlo Racing Circuit in Monaco with Senior Vice President Frank Weber, or go canyoneering near Cannes with Innovator Will Whitehorn.

Photo: Virgin Voyages
Apart from its adults-only proposition, Virgin Voyages prides itself on its sustainability efforts. While cruising is inherently an unsustainable type of travel, Virgin takes some measures that other cruise lines don’t to mitigate the environmental impact, like banning single-use plastics onboard and eliminating buffets to reduce food waste. They’ve also partnered with eco-focused charities, including SeaTrees and Virgin Unite, which serve as official partners on Celebration Voyages.
In Puerto Plata, passengers can choose to take an Impact Tour of the north coast to the Laguna de Cabarete National Forest. There, you’ll meet a member of the Virgin Unite nonprofit organization and learn all about the importance of mangroves to the ecosystem before planting some of your own.
If you only associate Virgin with airplanes and an eccentric British billionaire, Celebration Voyages are the perfect introduction – not just to Virgin Voyages, but to the brand’s colorful history and infectious personality. And if you’re lucky, you might even get to see Branson himself and hear an ‘80s pop star relive his glory days.
How an Outdoorsy Staycation in Grand Junction Reinvigorated My Appreciation for Where I Live

Convincing myself to take a staycation wasn’t hard to do. I live in Mesa County, Colorado, which is home to nearly 1.6 million acres of public land – the highest of any county in a state rife with open spaces – and since moving here in 2019 I’ve frequently dealt with a pleasurable thorn in my side. That is, each time I head to a trailhead to hike, bike, or splitboard, I drive by another trailhead that I didn’t know existed. This is overwhelming. Mock me if you must, but I pride myself on covering a lot of ground, and when the amount of ground that needs covering seems to multiply faster than campers at an REI sale, my inability to be everywhere results in an incessant twitch in the leg. I tend to be far flung when I take time away from the computer, fully embracing the “vacate” aspect of vacation. But for once, I decided it was time to stay closer to home and attempt to catch up on what’s fresh and new in my usual zone.
Seeing Grand Junction with new eyes
Colorado National Monument was signed into existence by President Taft in 1911 using the Antiquities Act, which grants presidents the power to declare a national monument. Hiking trails wind through the monument. Photo: Tim Wenger
To do so, I hopped the bus into downtown Grand Junction, a 70,000-strong regional hub and the largest city between Denver and Salt Lake City. Despite being the economic center for Mesa County’s 150,000+ residents, the city maintains unparalleled outdoor access, with dozens of trailheads offering hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and off-roading for recreators of all levels.
I checked into the Hotel Maverick, a refined property on the Colorado Mesa University campus that’s staffed largely by students in the school’s Hospitality Management program. The boutique hotel opened in 2020 in a lodging market defined by chain properties and loyalty points, offering a home base to the adventure crowd that seeks authentic vibes. My two-year-old daughter, Olivia, was immediately drawn towards the repurposed gondola car temptingly parked out front of the hotel, and we didn’t even make it inside until 20 minutes later, after her stuffies had sufficiently occupied the tramcar. Dad appreciated the seasonally rotating veggie lasagna on the menu at Devil’s Kitchen on the hotel’s top floor, where we dined on the balcony overlooking Colorado National Monument and the glistening constellation of lights covering the brand new Asteria Theater next door. Inspired by these views and the craft beer in my glass, I watched the sun set a Broncos-orange hue atop the Monument while appreciating how much this small city has refined itself right under my nose.
Case in point: The Grand Valley is an American Viticultural Area (AVA), home to more than 30 wineries. I’d never been to Two Rivers Winery west of downtown, and joined a group to visit the tasting room for happy hour. Known for its chardonnay, I also appreciated the Vintner’s Blend red. The winery also has a chateau where guests can rent rooms overnight, frequently used for weddings and special events.
Canyon bathing and monument hiking
A big horn sheep greeted us, seemingly with a smile. Photo: Tim Wenger
The next morning it was time to actually explore those trailheads I’d promised myself. The Hotel Maverick offers a new guided experience of which I took part known as “canyon bathing.” A play on the Japanese concept of forest bathing, canyon bathing – here under the moniker “Silence, Solitude, & Serenity,” requires hiking out into a desolate canyon and embracing one’s innate connection to nature.
“I’d describe canyon bathing as part hiking, part curiosity and being one with your surroundings,” our guide, a local naturalist named Zebulon Miracle, said as we walked down The Ribbon Trail toward a large sandstone rock face, a flat surface tilted slightly toward the high desert below and the city of Grand Junction beyond. We paused to reflect, sitting on the rock to calm our minds and be in the moment.
Sitting atop a sheet of sandstone overlooking the Grand Junction area, I uncovered what is now my favorite view, my favorite place to sit among both desolation and vibrant life. I’d mountain biked past this point before, but sitting, bathing, in its expanse opened up a perspective that before I’d entirely missed. I became immensely proud to live here. There are life decisions of which I now question, but moving to western Colorado is not among them.

A sandstone formation along The Ribbon Trail, the carved out area in front was used by Indigenous peoples as a cookstove. Photo: Tim Wenger
Desert bathing proved a more mindful way to experience a local trail, with focus on the geology, plant life, and importance of water to the region – a great way to gain an understanding of the area’s natural history. The experience can be customized and is adaptable for those with disabilities. Miracle filled the hiking time with tidbits about our surroundings that only a naturalist could know, such as that sage – which is plentiful in this area – is slightly poisonous, which is why it’s historically been used in medicines. Indigenous cultures found it great for a stomach ache, and for Miracle, who regularly pulls a small piece and places it on his tongue while on the trail, “Sage is the taste of hiking.”
Earlier in 2024 I decided this would be the year I’d finally cover much of the hiking trails within Colorado National Monument. This protected space covers 32 square miles adjacent to the Uncompahgre Plateau’s north rim, an area first occupied and held sacred by the Ute Indian Tribe of the Uintah and Ouray Reservation, the Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, the Southern Ute Indian Tribe, the White Mesa Ute Community, and the Navajo Nation – but not appreciated by white settlers until John Otto proclaimed in the early 1900s that “I’m going to stay and promote this place, because it should be a national park.”

Looking out from a viewpoint at Colorado National Monument. Photo: Tim Wenger
Reddish-brown tinted sedimentary rock formations, some dating back 160 million years, form a series of U-shaped canyons that resulted from volcanic activity and millions of years of subsequent seismic activity and erosion. Newer basalt rock dots the canyons, adding a darker hue. Now, the area is lined with pinyon and juniper trees that form a picturesque and pungent layer of deep greens across the canyons, a landscape as lush and striking as the Grand Canyon and with an adjacent area, Rattlesnake Canyon, containing the second-highest concentration of natural arches anywhere in America, behind only Arches National Park. In 1911, President William Taft signed a proclamation declaring the monument under the protection of the National Park Service, and over the ensuing century a network of well-maintained hiking trails has been established both atop the monument’s high-desert canyons and down within the canyons themselves, with several access points in the Redlands area of Grand Junction.
Since March I’ve ventured to nearly every trailhead within the monument, sometimes with my daughter but often on my own. The lower trails from the Wildwood, White Rocks, and Lower Monument Canyon trailheads offer stunning views of the towering vertical rock formations within the monument such as Bottlecap and Eagle Towers, sheerwalled monoliths that phalice towards the sky like an arm stretching to the heavens

Colorado National Monument was signed into existence by President Taft in 1911 using the Antiquities Act, which grants presidents the power to declare a national monument. Hiking trails wind through the monument. Photo: Tim Wenger
On this occasion I partook in the hike from the Canyon Rim Trailhead, behind the visitor’s center, to Window Rock – a quick two-mile hike I didn’t even know existed because I’d never taken the time to actually look behind the visitor’s center. The trail wound along the canyon’s rim, a vivid overlook into the geologic evolution of our planet since the Mesozoic era. From here I looked down upon the canyons and some of the trail mileage I’d recently covered. En route to the trailhead, with a few others in tow, we encountered BigHorn Sheep that came so close to our vehicle as we inched along Rim Rock Drive atop the monument that it was as though they’d wanted to join our pack.
Venturing to land’s end
Looking out from Lands End Observatory. Lands End Road, which we traversed en route, winds its way up the Grand Mesa from the valley floor. Photo: Tim Wenger
Among the most iconic spots in Mesa County is the Lands End Observatory, atop the Grand Mesa at 10,500 feet in elevation. From a viewpoint on top of the world’s largest flat-topped mountain, we looked out over the vast array of open space that covers western Colorado. This is a truly unique landscape, where the Rockies give way to the high desert, and from nearly 11,000 feet above it’s possible to see all the way to the La Sal Mountains of Utah to the west and the Book Cliffs range directly to the north.
The Book Cliffs are a band of sandy desert mountains, the only east-to-west range in the Rockies, that run from this part of western Colorado into into easetrn Utah. They’re a harsh environment – with steep trails baking in the desert sun and an ecosystem that sees an average of 11 inches of precipitation per year. Plant and animal life here must be resilient, but few areas of the United States better highlight the beauty of the high desert.
Horseback riding has never been a regular activity of mine, but among the most frequent points of discussion in local press and among those who visit the Grand Junction area is the presence of wild horses in the Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Area. After descending from the Grand Mesa we joined JR’s Carriage for a ride on horseback out into the area, where we spotted several wild horses drinking from a small stream running from a nearby spring. I’d never been out on this trail, which departed north from the Coal Canyon Trailhead in Cameo. It provided views of the back side Mt. Garfield, the iconic 6,675’ postcard-worthy peak that is the area’s most well-known natural feature.

Riding through Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Area, the Grand Mesa in the background. Photo: Tim Wenger
One of the joys of a staycation is that you uncover tough-to-find or newer spots, often my own fault as I live in an area that has been through many boom-and-bust economic cycles and is only recently finding its contemporary footing as a wine country hub that doubles as an outdoor recreation business incubator. In this case I had lunch at Cruise Control Kitchen and Cellar, a wine bar in downtown Grand Junction with a Chicago-influenced food menu. Over a Jackalope sandwich – rabbit and antelope spicy sausage named for the local professional baseball team – I was again reminded of how a city evolves as it grows. The restaurant was founded by co-owners of Sauvage Spectrum, an area winery that has driven the wine region towards a young, hip demographic. I felt this again the next morning at Cafe Sol, a breakfast and lunch spot that I frequent but had never before stopped to think about how great it is to have. I’d successfully pulled back a protective layer that had kept me from seeing everything great about where I live.

Several wild horses drink from a stream. Photo: Tim Wenger
As a travel editor, I’m constantly bombarded with reasons why I should pack up and head somewhere new. My biggest takeaway from this Grand Junction staycation is that it’s equally important to embrace where I live and remind myself why I set roots here in the first place.
As Zebulon Miracle told me as we hiked through those canyons, “Water dictates where people go, but geology dictates what they do when they get there.” Even after five years of exploring the canyons, mesas, and mountains of the region, I still have a lot to do.
What I Packed for a Magical Week of Sea, Sun, and Wildlife-Watching in the Galápagos Islands

Traveling around the Galápagos Islands is a straight-forward affair: All you have to do is show up with the right gear, and the islands (and their precious animal inhabitants) will put on the best show you’ve ever seen. This should be simple. Surely, if the 100-year-old giant tortoises can stay calm and strike a pose while a dozen teary-eyed tourists gawk at them from six feet away, you can pack the right kind of socks.
While packing for the Galápagos seems easy, there’s one thing you need to always account for: The sun will be brutal. The temperatures might not be high and it might even rain, but the sun will be relentless, no matter the season. In many ways, that makes packing very easy because, whether you decide to visit during the warm and wet season between late December and May, or the cold and dry season of May until late November, you’ll need to have mostly the same priority in mind: items with some kind of high SPF or UPF rating, assuming you don’t want to burn to a crisp.
Another essential piece of advice to remember while packing for a trip to the Galápagos archipelago is that you’ll spend as much time on land as you will on the water. Quick-dry clothing (no denim), multiple bathing suits, and waterproof shoes are indispensable if you don’t want to struggle with belongings soaked in sea water.
Here’s what I packed for a week in in the Galápagos Islands with expedition cruise line Ecoventura, as well as some of the items I wish I had taken with me.

Photo: Ecoventura
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ShoesIf you’re traveling to the Galápagos Islands, it’s probably to spend time in nature, probably wildlife-watching. So you can eschew the elegant shoes you’d wear at a nice restaurant, and bring practical and comfortable footwear instead. For a casual, adventure-focused trip, you only need two pairs of shoes: one for dry and one for wet activities.

Photo: Morgane Croissant
While light hiking boots like On’s Cloudtrax are a good option for land-based exploration, a comfortable pair of sneakers will do the job just as well. I chose to travel with my trusty and well-worn pair of On CloudFlyer 4 runners, which I take just about everywhere. They’re padded for comfort and protection, very stable no matter the terrain, and super light so they never feel like an impediment, even on tough hikes. If I were visiting in the wet season, however, I’d go for a pair of waterproof sneakers to make sure my feet stay dry at all times — I like to be prepared for all eventualities.
Buy On CloudFlyer 4
Photo: Jesse Adams
On your tour of the islands, you’ll spend a lot of time in and out of Zodiacs and kayaks, so water sandals are a must. While some might prefer a simple pair of rubber sandals like the ones Crocs and Birkenstocks make, I advise opting for something with Velcro straps to keep your feet more secure on walks or hikes. Teva and Chacos are the most well-known brands for water sandals, but many outdoor labels make very similar products. I opted for Camper’s colorful Match Sandals, and they not only did the job adequately, but also dried quickly after being submerged. Also, the straps are made with 100 percent recycled polyester — an appealing feature, in my book.)
Buy Camper’s Match SandalsSun protectionThe sun rays are strongest at the Equator, so while you’re out and about watching sea lions on the beach or swimming with sea turtles, every little bit of skin that’s not appropriately protected or covered will burn. Take it from a fair-skinned, red-haired, freckled traveler who thought she had it all figured out (but didn’t).
Sunscreen
Photo: Jesse Adams
I took a bottle of Think Sport reef-safe SPF 50 sunscreen on my trip, and it was far from enough for my skin. Despite repeated and thorough applications, I got burnt a few times. Find the sunscreen with the highest SPF you can get your hands on (SPF 100 does exist) and apply generously and regularly. Make sure to select an ocean-friendly sunscreen to keep the marine environment happy and healthy.
Buy Think Sport reef-safe sunscreenLip balm with SPF
Photo: Jesse Adams
Don’t forget to protect your lips from the sun, too. I forgot my Greencricket SPF 30 lip balm at home and had to deal with very damaged lips that took about a week to recover. While the Greencricket brand advertises a clear lip balm, I found it to have a slight tint, so it might not satisfy everyone. However, both Burt’s Bees and Sun Bum offer clear, SPF 30 lip balms.
Buy SPF lip balmUV-filtered or polarized sunglasses
Photo: Jesse Adams
Sunglasses with either UV filters or polarized lenses are indispensable for the health of your eyes. While polarized lenses provide your eyeballs with the same sun protection as 100 percent UV lenses, there’s one major benefit to choosing polarized sunglasses: Everything looks a lot clearer and crisper. The polarized lenses get rid of the glare from water, sand, and other surfaces, helping to prevent eye strain. Polarized sunglasses are especially important if you’re trying to spot marine creatures from a boat.
My pair of plastic-framed, tortoise shell Suncloud Metric sunglasses worked beautifully in the Galápagos Islands, and didn’t cost an arm and a leg. I used an eyewear strap from Chums to keep them from falling in the water while kayaking or during Zodiac rides.
Buy Suncloud Metric sunglassesUPF clothingClothing, especially UPF clothing, is a more convenient option than slathering yourself repeatedly with sunscreen. While it’s tough to wear long pants and a long-sleeve shirt in the hot sun, it’s incredibly effective against sunburns. I packed Marmot’s Windridge UPF 50 Hoody for my trip to the Galápagos Islands and wore it when I didn’t want to apply sunscreen; it worked remarkably well. Other travelers in my group did the same and even regretted not packing more than one.
I wore shorts daily during my seven-day trip and did get sunburns on my thighs despite wearing sunscreen. UPF pants do exist, including zip-off pants that easily convert into shorts, and I would highly recommend to pack a pair or two to keep your skin safe from intense sun exposure.
Buy Marmot’s Windridge UPF 50 HoodyWide-brimmed hat
Photo: Jesse Adams
Even if you’re not prone to getting sunburns on your scalp like me, do not travel to the Galápagos Islands without a hat — preferably, a wide-brimmed one that also protects your neck and parts of your face. I traveled with the very light and quick-dry Pistil’s Trent Sun Hat, with UPF 50 protection and an adjustable chin cord to keep it secure.
Buy Pistil’s Trent Sun HatRash guard or skin suitA long-sleeve rash guard (or a full-body skin suit) will not only protect you from the sun around the water, but it’ll also add some warmth in cold water. If you plan to wear it while snorkelling or swimming, make sure it’s a tight fit or it’ll impede your movements. I didn’t have one with me on this trip, but will make sure to pack one next time, as it’s a lot easier to slip one on than to apply sunscreen.
Buy a rash guardA neck gaiter
Photo: Jesse Adams
I didn’t pack a bandana or gaiter, and ended up purchasing one to protect my scalp while snorkelling. (A swimming cap would have done the trick, too.) It’s also useful for keeping the sun off your face and neck, or using as a headband to keep strands of hair from getting in your eyes. Don’t go without one. I recommend options from Buff, a brand so associated with the product that it’s become a generic term for any kind of neck gaiter.
Buy a neck gaiterCamera equipment
Photo: Robb Leahy via Ecoventura
As amazing as phone cameras have become over the years, you would miss out on some amazing memories if you didn’t pack a good-quality camera with you on a trip to the Galápagos Islands, whether you rent or purchase one. My partner is the photographer in our relationship, so he hauled his heavy and cumbersome Nikon D610 with a 28-300 mm lens all the way to the archipelago. I’m sure it was annoying at times, but looking back at the beautiful shots he took makes it well worth the hassle. Just make sure to carry it in a dry bag at all times — sea water and electronics don’t mix.

Photo: Jesse Adams
Because there’s as much (if not more) to see underwater as on land, travelers to the Galápagos Islands need to be able to capture images while swimming or snorkelling. My partner used a GoPro, which worked out very well, and we also used a waterproof phone case from Seawag, allowing us to shoot great underwater footage of the island’s varied marine wildlife. Pelican makes a very reliable and affordable waterproof phone pouch, too.
Buy a waterproof phone caseBug-repelling items
Photo: Jesse Adams
While I encountered only a few mosquitos during my seven-day trip to the Galápagos Islands, if you were to travel there during the wet and warm season, you might run into more. I traveled with a natural bug spray that consists of a blend of essential oils, and it was entirely sufficient. Note that wearing light-colored clothing, as opposed to dark colors, will help deter insects from pestering you.
Buy natural bug sprayMiscellaneous itemsBinoculars
Photo: Jesse Adams
Binoculars are an essential item to pack if you want to watch the amazing wildlife of the Galápagos Islands in action, including blue-footed boobies, whales, rays, dolphins, penguins resting on rocks, baby pelicans, and much more. I traveled with expedition cruise line Ecoventura, which provided us all with binoculars, but I usually travel with my own, as well: a pair of 10 X 42 waterproof and fogproof Solognac. Nocs also makes a solid pair of affordable travel binocular that Matador Network editor Suzie Dundas swears by.
Buy binocularsWindbreaker
Photo: Morgane Croissant
While I traveled to the Galápagos Islands during the dry and cold season, I packed my windbreaker and used it on a couple of occasions. Don’t travel with something heavy and bulky that will take a lot of room in your luggage — there’s no need for anything fancy. Instead, use a packable rain jacket like the Pack & Go Shell from Jack Wolfskin. You can thrown it in your backpack to have handy at all times, since it takes up next to no room.
Buy the Pack & Go Shell from Jack WolfskinHoodie/fleece
Photo: Natasha Hall
Even if the weather is mostly hot in the Galápagos Islands, you might want to pack a light hoodie or fleece for evenings or chilly mornings. Something like the merino-wool Ibex Shak Hoodie or the Teca Fleece by Cotopaxi is sufficient. I used my Shak hoodie daily despite the wonderful weather.
Buy the Ibex’s Shak HoodieMask and snorkelWhile Ecoventura provided me with a mask, a snorkel, and a three-millimeter wetsuit for the duration of the trip, if you’re traveling to the islands independently, you may want to bring your own mask and snorkel. Don’t bother with the wetsuit unless you’re a super keen snorkeler or diver — you can probably rent one from one of the outfitters on San Cristobal or Santa Cruz if you need it. A full-body skin suit might be sufficient if you stick to warm-water spots.
E-simIf you want to stay connected during your time in the Galápagos Islands, get yourself an e-sim from GigSky. Unlike other e-sims, GigSky works both on the Ecuadorian mainland and the islands. I paid $14.99 for 15 days and 3 GB of data — a deal if there ever was one.
The 14 Best Alberta Airbnbs Rentals for All Types of Travelers

Alberta, a province in western Canada, is a place of contrasts. Its vast prairies stretch to the horizon, its rugged mountains pierce the sky, and the cities of Edmonton and Calgary offer modernity, art, and culture.
For millennia, Indigenous peoples have called Alberta home. The First Nations, Métis, and Inuit have stewarded these lands. Their traditions, stories, and artistic expressions are woven into the fabric of Alberta’s identity. While visitoring you can support Indigenous businesses, go on Indigenous-led tours, visit historic sites, and experience traditional ceremonies to gain a deeper understanding of the heritage.
Alberta is also the ultimate outdoor playground. The Canadian Rockies, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offer breathtaking scenery with humbling peaks, glacial lakes, and the wildest wildlife. Banff National Park, the country’s oldest national park, is just as magical in winter as in summer, and, of course, there’s Jasper National Park. There’s a lot to see and do, I know. First, find a base and then map out a route between a few select places, allowing time to explore the outdoors and listen to the stories of people who call Alberta home.
As it’s the fourth-largest province in the country and only a little smaller than France, you might be questioning how you begin to plan a trip. Often when considering a vacation to a large country or place, I begin by choosing where I want to stay. Finding a perfect rental is just as important (arguably more so) than deciding what to do, and what to see. Hopefully, some of these Airbnbs will help you narrow down where you want to visit and who you will take with you.
Here, we have options for solo explorers, couples and small families, and larger groups. These Alberta Airbnb listings have been selected because they are some of the most wish-listed rentals for a vacation to the province.
We hope you love the Airbnb Alberta rentals we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
The best Airbnb Alberta rentals for solo travelersThe best Airbnb Alberta rentals for couples and small familiesThe best Airbnb Alberta rentals for groups and large familiesTraveling to Canada? Check out Matador’s Canada accommodations guides: The Most Chic Montreal Airbnbs in the City’s Coolest Neighborhoods The 8 Best Hotels in Montreal Close To the Must-See Sights 19 Epic Airbnbs in Montreal for a Bachelorette Weekend The Best Airbnbs in Downtown Toronto, From the Harbourfront to the CN Tower The Best Airbnbs in Calgary For City Life and Mountain Escapes The Most Luxurious Airbnbs in Whistler for Every Season From cozy chalets to city lofts, the best options for solo travelersOpen-planned loft in downtown Edmonton



Many use Calgary as their gateway, never making it to Edmonton’s provincial capital, a three-hour drive north up AB-2. As locals are quick to call out, this is a mistake. With unusual malls, expansive parks, multicultural festivals, and quirky museums, Edmonton is a vibrant city that stands apart from other urban hubs in Canada. This loft is downtown, minutes from Rogers Arena, Grant MacEwan University, and the farmers market. The open-planned space has rave reviews; one guest says they changed their plans and extended their stay because of the warmth and comfort of the one-bedroom. There are views over downtown, a custom-made kitchen, a spa-like en-suite with a walk-in steam shower, and a parking space for one car or SUV.
Two guests, one bedrooms
Price: $124 per night




If Calgary is calling, but you’re not a city person, look at the country town of Cochrane. It’s around 15 minutes from Calgary, an hour from Banff, and 45 minutes from the mountains of Kananaskis Country. Small towns of Bragg Creek and Black Diamond are perfect for day trips, and I think I’ve just written an itinerary for you. And this tiny house makes for an excellent base. It has five-star reviews, making it a top one percent rental on Airbnb. Within walking distance are lovely little local shops (including an ice cream and coffee house), galleries, and restaurants. There’s space to roam with the Cochrane Ranche, the river path, and Glenbow Ranch, which are also nearby. The tiny home has a lovely fireplace for winter evenings, a sunny reading loft for warm mornings, and a garden-side patio.
Two guests, one bedrooms
Price: $125 per night




In the southwestern corner of Alberta is Waterton Lakes National Park. It borders Glacier National Park in Montana and is part of the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is home to three interconnected lakes: Upper Waterton Lake, Middle Waterton Lake, and Lower Waterton Lake, where you can rent a boat, fish, or go wild swimming. Surrounding the lakes are Mount Crandell, Mount Blakiston, and Mount Rowe, with various hiking trails that wind through the forests, meadows, and alpine regions. Minutes from the park is this cool silo Airbnb. It sits on 26 acres within Spearpoint Cattle Ranch and offers unobstructed mountain views and excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing. It has everything you need: a private gas fire pit for evenings under the stars, a fully equipped kitchen, a communal grill, a gazebo, and outdoor dining.
Four guests, one bedrooms
Price: $146 per night




Called “Second Breakfast Hideaway,” this Hobbit-inspired one-bedroom earthouse is a great base if you’re starting your trip in the north of British Columbia. It’s situated in the Okanagan Highlands, around six hours from Banff. That might seem like quite a drive, but it can be knocked out in a day, and the scenic drive from the highlands across the Alberta border is just magical. The landscape in this area is full of winding roads, mountains, and picture-postcard views. The one-bedroom is surrounded by hundreds of acres of hiking trails, high mountain lakes, and creeks and if you’d rather relax and have a glass of wine, it’s just 30 minutes from the wine capital of British Columbia, Oliver.
Two guests, one bedrooms
Price: $291 per night




Putting you in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, this chalet is two hours west of Calgary and an hour and a half from Banff. If the journey from the Hobbit home above seems too much, this is the perfect place to stop on your way into Alberta. That will break down the six-hour drive and allow you to relax in the mountains before moving on to the city. I’ve not included an option for a solo traveler in Calgary, but Matador has a dedicated Airbnb article on Calgary, so check that out. The chalet is in the stunning Blaeberry Valley, 15 minutes from the town of Golden. The chalet is hand-built by the owners and is one of the top 10 percent homes on Airbnb.
Four guests, one bedrooms
Price: $144 per night




Calgary, situated along the foothills of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains, serves as a gateway to Banff National Park. Often compared to Denver, Colorado, the city is a contrast between its gleaming downtown skyscrapers and vibrant multicultural neighborhoods. This breathtaking two-bedroom skyline condo has views from the large balcony of the Calgary Tower and downtown. With space for four guests, it’s within walking distance to almost everything you’d want to see in Calgary, so you can leave the car parked up and explore downtown on foot.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $98 per night




This is another one to bookmark and, indeed, a stay you’ll never forget. In the Rockies, Windermere Resort offers a variety of accommodations, including a top one percent of Airbnb, Wolf Dome. The geodesic dome provides an immersive experience for nature lovers and those wanting to be in a rural mountain setting but close to amenities. It’s a six-minute drive to Invermere, which has excellent dining and shops. But you might find it hard to leave this rental. The Wolf Dome has two stories with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. It features a cozy living area with a fireplace, a fully equipped kitchen, and two bedrooms. The dome’s design creates a spacious, open-feeling interior, while the large windows provide ample natural light.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $188 per night




One hour south of Edmonton is this cozy A-Frame on Tillicum Beach. Escaping the city for a few days is ideal, especially in summer when you’ll want some outdoor space and air. The A-Frame sits above a lake, and Camrose, a small town, is a 15-minute drive away, where you can grab produce at the amazing farmers market. There are two bedrooms with three queen beds, an indoor fireplace for winter and an outdoor firepit for dry evenings, a barrel sauna, and a hammock — the perfect place for an afternoon nap.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $164 per night




If you like the sound of the above chalet in Golden but need more space, bookmark this top five percent two-bedroom cabin. It’s a superb base if you’re driving in from British Columbia and want to see the best of both provinces. In this area of the Blaeberry Valley, six national parks are within driving distance. The cabin has a hot tub, underfloor heating, a fireplace, and a wraparound driveway for larger vehicles and RVs.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $219 per night



Canmore, a charming mountain town in the Rockies, is just west of Calgary. Its proximity to the Banff makes it a convenient base for exploring the breathtaking landscapes, glacial lakes, and wildlife of the Rockies. This cozy two-bedroom, two-bathroom suite offers breathtaking views of the Three Sisters Mountains. Perfect for families or couples, the spacious living area features an open-concept kitchen with a breakfast bar. The primary bedroom has a queen bed and an ensuite bathroom with a walk-in shower, a bathtub, and a vanity area. The second bedroom also has a queen bed and stunning mountain views. Both bathrooms are equipped with complimentary amenities.
Four guests, two bedrooms
Price: $139 per night




This secluded mountain home offers a tranquil escape in the Rockies. In the picturesque town of Nordegg, the cabin offers panoramic views, fresh mountain air, and dark starry nights. Nearby is Abraham Lake, a stunning glacial lake, and the David Thompson Highway, which offers scenic drives through the mountains. The cabin is a cozy and well-appointed space, perfect for couples, friends, and families seeking a peaceful getaway. Inside, you’ll find a fully equipped kitchen, a comfortable living area with a stone fireplace, and board games for entertainment. Outside, enjoy the outdoor fire pit where you can soak in the mountain surroundings and a barrel sauna to relax in after a day of exploring.
Six guests, three bedrooms
Price: $308 per night




The Croft, a luxurious barn house on Willow Ridge Ranch, is just a few minutes from the historic town of Cochrane. This stunning property provides breathtaking views of the surrounding ranch and the Rocky Mountains. As mentioned, Cochrane provides easy access to Banff and Yoho National Parks. The Airbnb is a beautifully designed space blending modern industrial elements with rustic farmhouse charm. The open-concept floor plan creates a spacious and inviting atmosphere, while the exposed brick, metal, and concrete floors add a touch of industrial chic. The cabin is furnished with repurposed wood, traditional lighting, and antique heirlooms, creating a warm and welcoming ambiance. You can unwind on the covered West-facing deck, which features a dining area, chill by the fire pit tucked away in a secluded cove, or retreat to the second-floor balconies to enjoy stunning views of the mountains and wildlife.
Six guests, two bedrooms
Price: $237 per night




To close out, I’ve got two epic rentals in Calgary. The first is this luxury home in the Ramsay neighborhood. Called the Scotsman’s Hill Lodge, the group-sized retreat has unparalleled panoramic views of Calgary’s downtown skyline, the iconic Calgary Tower, and the Rocky Mountains. The stunning four-bedroom, 4.5-bathroom home is ideal for families, groups of friends, or bridal parties seeking a memorable stay in the city. A short walk from the trendy Inglewood neighborhood, Scotsman’s Hill Lodge provides easy access to various shops, restaurants, and breweries. The modern home features expansive floor-to-ceiling windows that offer breathtaking views from every room. This is the perfect place if you are visiting during the Calgary Stampede, as you can watch the fireworks from the scenic Scotsman Hill position.
Nine guests, four bedrooms
Price: $303 per night




Last but no means least is The Dome House, an outrageous and modern retreat offering a tropical-themed stay in the heart of Calgary. With its sleek design and top-of-the-line amenities, this stunning property is perfect for families, groups of friends, or anyone seeking a truly unforgettable experience. The Dome House is located just 17 minutes from the Calgary International Airport, and within a 10-minute drive, you’ll find grocery stores, excellent restaurants, and bars. The home features three professionally designed bedrooms and two luxurious bathrooms with electronic faucets, heated toilet seats, and body spray showers. The hi-tech kitchen is fully stocked with everything you need to host even the fanciest of dinners, with ample counter space from a stunning waterfall granite countertop. Outside, you can relax and enjoy the outdoor green space, which features five patio spaces and three fire pits. If traveling with kids, they will love the playground with a climbing rock, outdoor games, and a mini putt. For evening entertainment, the backyard can be transformed into a private outdoor cinema with projectors and screens for movie nights under the starry sky. And the rooftop patio, with its fire table and privacy walls, offers another secluded spot.
Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $510 per night
October 17, 2024
North Carolina’s Nantahala Outdoor Center Promises Unparalleled Adventure in the Great Smokies

In the heart of the Appalachians, where the Great Smoky Mountains and North Carolina’s Nantahala National Forest meet, there’s a town called Bryson City where adventure and serenity also converge. It’s a place where the roar of the Nantahala River soundtracks whitewater rafting trips, where the wind whistles as you whip down mountain biking trails or zip line runways, and where nature’s subtler sounds backdrop afternoons spent hiking or relaxing on Fontana Lake.
About 20 minutes from Bryson City, in the heart of the national forest, there’s one outdoors operator that visitors trust to facilitate all of those adventures and more: the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). Travelers could easily spend an entire trip to this slice of North Carolina without ever leaving the NOC campus — which also has lodging and all the necessary amenities on site — except to venture out into nature on guided excursions. But the town of Bryson City has its own charms, from the historic downtown to romps on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad.
For the thrill seekers, the curious, and anyone who’s drawn to majestic mountain landscapes, here’s what you need to know about recreating in Bryson City and its scenic surroundings with the NOC.
A window into the region and the Nantahala Outdoor Center
Photo: Tammy McCracken
Perfectly positioned between one of the country’s most-visited national parks and North Carolina’s largest national forest, with the Tuckasegee River and Fontana Lake within rock-throwing distance, Bryson City is considered the outdoor adventure capital of the Great Smoky Mountains. The region, whose peaks and valleys have been sculpted over millennia, has deep-rooted ties to the Cherokee Nation — Nantahala means “land of the noon day sun” in Cherokee, reflecting the way sunlight only graces the Nantahala Gorge’s floor around noon.
The Nantahala National Forest spans 531,286 acres, some 200 miles of which lay tracks for the Appalachian Trail (AT) and more than 500 acres of which belong to the NOC. The NOC was founded in 1972 by Payson and Aurelia Kennedy, along with their friend Horace Holden Sr. What began as a modest motel and petrol store by the Nantahala River quickly evolved into a premier outdoor adventure destination, largely thanks to the veteran guides and staff who run its campus at the intersection of the Nantahala River and the AT. Today, the outdoor center facilitates upwards of 100 exhilarating activities for more than a million visiting adventurers each year.
Nantahala Outdoor Center: 13077 US-19, Bryson City, NC 28713
Outdoor adventures with the Nantahala Outdoor CenterEditor’s note: Reporting for this story was done before Hurricane Helene barreled through North Carolina in September. A representative for the NOC has shared the following message: As communities across North Carolina continue to recover from the impact of Hurricane Helene, we are pleased to share that the NOC’s main campus in Bryson City is fully operational and ready to welcome guests. The NOC is also serving as a donation drop point to support impacted areas with essential supplies. Visitors are encouraged to travel responsibly and explore the open areas supporting local businesses as they recover. Looking ahead, new for 2025 are The Hemlocks by NOC. These newly constructed bungalows represent a bold evolution in premium outdoor experiences. This is not just a place to stay; it’s a reimagined way to connect with nature while enjoying unparalleled comfort.
Hiking
Photo: Jerry Whaley/Shutterstock
It makes sense that hiking is one of the most popular forms of outdoor recreation in an area that hosts part of the AT. Spanning more than 2,190 miles, officially making it the world’s longest hiking-only footpath, the AT stretches from Katahdin, Maine, to Springer Mountain, Georgia, which is about 100 miles south of Bryson City.
The highest point on the trail, Kuwohi, lies about an hour north of Bryson City by car near the North Carolina-Tennessee border. Formerly called Clingmans Dome, and recently restored to its original Cherokee name meaning “mulberry place,” Kuwohi is also the highest peak in Great Smoky Mountains National Park at 6,644 feet.
Multiple trails near Bryson City will get you to the top, but you can also drive almost all the way to the observation deck at the summit via a paved, seven-mile road — you’ll only have to do the last half-mile, which is steep but also paved, on foot.
Mountain biking
Photo: Tammy McCracken
If you prefer to get around on two wheels, the NOC offers access to the Flint Ridge Trail in the Nantahala National Forest. Winding along a ridge high above the river, the trail is available to riders of all skill levels, although it begins with a challenging series of switchbacks. Stick with it (the view at the top is worth the effort) and rest assured that you’re in good hands with NOC’s guides and gear, whether you’re a seasoned or newer rider. The NOC’s Adventure Center rents out an array of top-notch specialized bikes that are perfect for tackling the trails.
Zip lining
Photo: Tammy McCracken
Getting the best views of the Nantahala River Gorge requires a little bit of courage. The NOC’s Mountaintop Zip Line Tour is a heart-pounding experience that includes eight ziplines and culminates in the one-half-mile Mega Zip. As you soar 2,000 feet above the Nantahala River Gorge, the land below becomes a blur of wilderness — a reminder of the area’s unfiltered beauty.
The NOC provides everything you’ll need to zip line responsibly, starting with a harness fitting, detailed instructions, and a safety overview. Tours are designed for all experience levels — expect to complete the introductory “bunny” zip line to apply your new zip skills whether you’re a first-timer or not.
Whitewater rafting
Photo: Tammy McCracken
For an active day on the water, embark on an eight-mile rafting excursion down the Nantahala River with the NOC. Plan to encounter Class II and III rapids, which your guide will help you gear you up for and navigate pending the requisite safety instructions. The journey begins with a bus ride to your launch point. From there, you’ll carry your raft a short distance to the river’s edge, and then you’re off. Along the way, your guide will share stories of the river’s history and the Cherokee Nation that once inhabited the area, making the fun outing an educational one, too.
Things to do in Bryson CityGreat Smoky Mountains Railroad
Photo: Tammy McCracken
No trip to Bryson City is complete without a ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. This round-trip excursion takes you through scenic river gorges, valleys, and tunnels, offering a relaxing way to see parts of western North Carolina that are inaccessible by car. If you visit between November and December, don’t miss the Polar Express Train Ride. Inspired by Chris Van Allsburg’s beloved book, this magical journey follows a young boy as he embarks on a ride to Santa’s headquarters, where he learns an invaluable lesson about the spirit of Christmas.
Great Smoky Mountains Railroad: 45 Mitchell St, Bryson City, NC 28713
Downtown Bryson City
Photo: Tammy McCracken
With 1,500 residents, Bryson City is a small, walkable town that packs a lot into the compact area where Main Street and Everett Street intersect. Make the Swain County Heritage Museum your first stop. The stately white town landmark, which once served as a courthouse, doubles as the Bryson City visitors center where you’ll find everything you need to start your journey around town and beyond, including printed brochures and magazines, public restrooms, and free Wi-Fi.
From there, spend a few hours meandering through shops like the Loose Moose, a one-stop shop for tee-shirts and souvenirs, and the Chocolate Shoppe, an old-fashioned confectionery that peddles a variety of treats ranging from fudge to hand-dipped ice cream. As you explore, admire the Tuckasegee River that runs through the heart of downtown, while the surrounding mountains add the finishing touches to the backdrop.
Swain County Heritage Museum: 2 Everett St, Bryson City, NC 28713
Loose Moose: 190 Everett St Bryson City, NC 28713
Chocolate Shoppe: 134 Everett St, Bryson City, NC 28713
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Bryson City Outdoors (@brysoncityoutdoors)
If time permits, drop by Bryson City Outdoors. While not a brewery, this unique spot is a combination outdoor store, beer garden, and community hub. The store offers a wide range of outdoor gear and apparel, perfect for any adventure in the surrounding mountains. After shopping, relax on the inviting patio, where you can enjoy a wide variety of local brews on tap, as well as other craft beers and local ciders. It’s a great place to unwind, meet fellow adventurers, and soak in the vibrant community atmosphere.
Bryson City Outdoors: 169 Main St, Bryson City, NC 28713
Where to eat and drink in Bryson CityRiver’s End Restaurant
Photo: Tammy McCracken
This waterfront dining spot at the intersection of the AT and the Nantahala River has been serving hikers, paddlers, and everyone in between since 1972. The menu is hearty enough to sustain active types, with dishes ranging from trout cakes and New York-style pizza to hand-baked bread and the restaurant’s famous Nepalese-inspired sherpa rice. The River’s End is open for lunch and dinner year-round, as well as breakfast between March and October.
River’s End Restaurant: 13077 Hwy 19 W, Bryson City, NC 28713
Big Wesser Riverside Pub
Photo: Tammy McCracken
On the NOC campus, the Big Wesser Riverside Pub presents a casual dining experience with open-air seating along the Nantahala riverbank. The kitchen plates up dishes Southern-leaning fare like burgers, barbecue, and fresh salads, plus a great selection of craft beers, wine, and cocktails. It’s not the widest menu in the world, but dining and drinking along the river (with live music and special events peppering the schedule) is ideal after a day spent outdoors.
Big Wesser Riverside Pub: 13077 Hwy 19 W, Bryson City, NC 28713
Fryemont Inn Dining Room
Photo: Tammy McCracken
The Fryemont Inn Dining Room is open to the public for both dinner and breakfast from mid-April to Thanksgiving. If you’re a lodger at the Fryemont during the spring, summer, or fall, both daily meals are included in the price of your stay. Dinner entrees are served with homemade soup, salad with homemade dressing, your entree, three special side dishes of the day served family style, and your choice of homemade dessert. Entrees include a variety of local, legendary mountain trout dishes — the pecan-crusted trout is a must — as well as chicken, beef, and vegetarian entrees.
Fryemont Inn Dining Room: 245 Fryemont St, Bryson City, NC 28713
Mountain Layers Brewing Company
Photo: Tammy McCracken
Mountain Layers Brewing Company is situated on Everett Street just past the Tuckasegee River. The brewery has a lovely open-air rooftop bar where you can sit and watch the world go by and, if you are lucky enough, catch a local band entertaining on the rooftop’s covered bar.
Mountain Layers Brewing Company: 90 Everett St, Bryson City, NC 28713
Where to stay in Bryson CityFryemont InnBuilt in 1923 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Fryemont Inn has 32 rooms and suites in the Historic Lodge, eight luxury cottage suites with fireplaces, and a two-bedroom cabin adjacent to the swimming pool. Designed by Richard Sharp Smith, known for his work on Asheville’s Biltmore House, the inn features oak and maple floors, locust post-and-beam construction, and poplar bark on the exterior. Inside, fireplaces serve as gathering spots where guests can do puzzles, read, or enjoy a cup of coffee. The inn’s dining room and fireside bar welcome tourists and locals alike.
Fryemont Inn: 245 Fryemont St, Bryson City, NC 28713
NOC Nantahala Adventure ResortNOC’s Nantahala Adventure Resort offers a range of accommodations for both short getaways and extended mountain retreats, from cabins and campsites to mini-lodge-style rooms. One standout is the three-bedroom, one-bathroom Birch Cabin, which sleeps up to nine guests and comes with a full kitchen. The deck overlooks the Appalachian Trail, where you can occasionally catch a glimpse of through and section hikers making their way along the footpath. Another option that’s unveiling in early 2025 is the Hemlocks by NOC, a collection of newly built bungalows tucked away in the forest on the property’s ridgeline.
NOC Nantahala Adventure Resort: 13077 US-19, Bryson City, NC 28713
Getting to Bryson City
Photo: Tammy McCracken
Bryson City is an hour’s drive west of Asheville, NC; two hours from Greenville-Spartanburg, SC, and Chattanooga and Knoxville, TN; and three hours from Charlotte, NC, and Atlanta, GA. The nearest airport (about 40 miles away) is Knoxville (TYS). Other options include Asheville (AVL) at approximately 50 miles away and Greenville-Spartanburg (GSP) at about 80 miles away. Whether you plan a road trip to Bryson City or fly in and rent a car, one thing is certain: the scenic drive to the Great Smoky Mountains gateway is all part of the experience.
How an Escape to Jamaica Helped Me Find Solace and Renewal

As the plane descended towards Montego Bay, the shimmering Caribbean Sea below seemed to whisper promises of respite. I needed this escape more than I cared to admit. The past few months had been a whirlwind of challenges, leaving me feeling drained and disconnected. Little did I know that my first visit to Sandals Dunn’s River, a luxurious all-inclusive in Ocho Rios, Jamaica, would be more than just a vacation—it would be a transformative journey back to myself.
Traveling to The Caribbean? Check out Matador’s accommodations guides: The Coolest, Cheapest Airbnbs in the Caribbean The Most Breathtaking Airbnbs in Jamaica This Luxury Puerto Rico Airbnb Has the Best Views in Rincón The 7 Best Artvillas in Costa Rica That You Can Book on Airbnb
We hope you love Sandals Dunn’s River! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
A warm Jamaican welcome
Photo courtesy Sandals Dunn’s River
From the moment I stepped off the plane, the legendary Jamaican hospitality enveloped me like a familiar warm hug. Instead of arriving and then immediately moving through a hectic airport, the Sandals lounge just a little ways past the gate was a haven of tranquility.
The scenic drive to Ocho Rios was a feast for the senses. Sandals Dunn’s River is located about an hour and half from the airport. While I wasn’t looking forward to the drive, I did enjoy gazing at the lush green hills. Our driver welcomed me to Jamaica with a fun and upbeat song he performed. For sure, the party was just getting started. By the time we pulled up to the grand entrance of Sandals Dunn’s River, I was already in love with Jamaica.
A room with a view at Sandals Dunn’s River
Photo courtesy Sandals Dunn’s River
During my stay at Sandals Dunn’s River, I had the pleasure of experiencing the Tufa Terrace One Bedroom Skypool Butler Suite, a true sanctuary of indulgence perched high above the resort. As I stepped inside, I was immediately captivated by the breathtaking views of the infinite shoreline stretching out before me, a stunning backdrop that set the tone for my entire stay.
The suite boasts a spacious bedroom adorned with a plush king-size bed. The modern living room, with its inviting furnishings, offered a cozy spot to unwind. However, the highlight of this luxurious suite is undoubtedly the private balcony, which features a SkyPool and a Tranquility Soaking Tub for two. Imagine sipping champagne in the warm water, gazing out at the sparkling ocean as the sun sets—a moment of pure bliss.
The spa-inspired bathroom is a dream, complete with a second Tranquility Soaking Tub and a walk-in shower that invites relaxation. With a double sink vanity providing ample space, it’s the perfect haven to refresh after a day in the sun. Its breathtaking beachfront views, plush accommodations, and unparalleled service combined to make the Tufa Terrace One Bedroom Skypool Butler Suite not just a room but an experience that defines luxury and romance in paradise.
A taste of Jamaica
Photo courtesy Sandals Dunn’s River
While the allure of spending my entire vacation lounging by my private pool was strong, the promise of culinary adventures called out to my stomach, of course. Sandals Dunn’s River boasts 12 restaurants, each offering a unique gastronomic experience, from the mouthwatering jerk chicken at the Jerk Shack to the refined EDESSA Greek-inspired restaurant overlooking the sea. But it was the coffee and cocoa tasting that I had the most fun experiencing. Our guide took us on a journey through Jamaica’s rich coffee and cocoa heritage. We learned about the island’s famed Blue Mountain coffee and its complex flavors as he explained the meticulous process behind each cup (it’s incredible how many people are involved in delivering that morning joe).
As I sat there savoring the interplay of flavors, I realized it was the first time in weeks that my mind wasn’t racing with worry. Instead, I was fully present, engrossed in the moment, my senses alive with the tastes and aromas of Jamaica.
Finding peace in paradise at Sandal’s Dunns River
Photo courtesy Sandals Dunn’s River
The days that followed were a blur of sun-soaked bliss. Mornings began with beach walks, the gentle lapping of waves providing a soothing soundtrack that calmed my mind. Afternoons were spent exploring the crystal-clear waters and ordering the 24-hour room service. Sandals Dunns Rivers offers an array of activities from snorkeling to paddle boarding as part of its all-inclusive pricing.
Back at the resort, the Red Lane Spa became my home away from home. As I lay on the massage table, the skilled hands of my therapist working out knots I didn’t even know I had, I found myself reflecting on the challenges that had driven me to seek refuge in this paradise.
Yes, the week leading up to this trip had been particularly difficult. Work pressures, personal setbacks, and a general sense of being overwhelmed had left me feeling lost. But here, surrounded by the natural beauty of Jamaica and the warmth of its people, I was beginning to find my way back.
As my week at Sandals Dunn’s River drew to a close, I realized that this slice of paradise had offered me more than just a respite from my troubles. It had provided valuable lessons that I could carry with me long after I left the shores of Jamaica.

Photo courtesy Sandals Dunn’s River
From the unhurried pace of island life, I learned the importance of slowing down and savoring each moment. The coffee and cocoa tasting taught me to appreciate the subtle nuances of each day, to take the time to truly experience rather than simply consume. The endless expanse of the Caribbean Sea reminded me that my problems, no matter how overwhelming they might seem, were but a drop in the vast ocean of life.
As I stood on my balcony on the last night, watching the sun dip below the horizon in a spectacular display, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. Grateful for this beautiful island that had embraced me, for the experiences that had enriched me, and for the renewal I had found.
Óom Bubble Boutique Offers Unique Comfort on the Riviera Maya

If you’re the type who enjoys living in your own bubble, there’s a place along Mexico’s Riviera Maya where you can quite literally do just that. Óom Bubble Boutique is a luxury glamping experience located in the heart of Mexico’s Mayan jungle. The bubble-shaped rooms immerse you in nature while providing all the comforts of home.
Each bubble, $134 per night and sleeping two, includes a comfy king-size bed, a full bathroom, and your own private plunge pool. The two premium suites also have a bathtub right inside. On clear nights, you can lie in bed and stargaze at the sky above, but if you want an even closer look at the stars, you can also use the telescope provided. The rooms are also equipped with air conditioning, ensuring comfort throughout your stay. There’s no need to worry about privacy as each bubble is positioned to face the jungle, ensuring no one can see inside.
We hope you love Óom Bubble Boutique! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.
@epic.stays POV: Waking up in a transparent bubble surrounded by the lush jungle @Óom Bubble Boutique in #PuertoMorelos #Mexico @Pink Plankton #traveltiktok #mexicohotel ♬ original sound – Airbnb & Hotel Guide
Start your morning with a made-to-order breakfast at the onsite restaurant, which is included in your stay. For a more indulgent experience, you can opt for a floating breakfast in your private plunge pool at an additional cost. The restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner, serving up international cuisine with a Mayan twist that brings a unique flavor to every dish. The food here is not just creative, it’s absolutely delicious.
The main thing to do at Óom Bubble Boutique is relax, and outside your bubble there are several great ways to do so. Take a swim in the pool or lounge on one of the comfortable day beds. There is also a lush garden area with hammocks and even a small cenote you can climb down into for a refreshing dip. The onsite temazcal, a traditional sweat lodge used by indigenous cultures of the area, also offers a powerful way to cleanse both body and mind.
What to do near Óom Bubble Boutique


If you’re up for a bit of adventure, you’ll definitely want to take advantage of the fact that the hotel is located along the famous “Ruta de los Cenotes,” a scenic route lined with dozens of cenotes to explore. Cenotes are natural sinkholes filled with freshwater and they are considered sacred by the Mayans. The closest is Cenote Siete Bocas, located just down the road. Its name, which translates to “Seven Mouths,” refers to the seven distinct openings that lead into an interconnected underground cave system that you can swim through.
If you’re craving some beach time, the laid-back coastal town of Puerto Morelos is just a half-hour drive away. Here you can stroll along the white sand beaches or book a boat tour to snorkel the vibrant Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second-largest reef system in the world.

The cenote at Oom Bubble Boutique. Photo: Jessica Devnani.
The hotel is about an hour from Cancun International Airport. While taxis are available, renting a car is highly recommended due to the resort’s remote location. This will give you the freedom to explore the nearby attractions during your stay.
Óom Bubble Boutique is the perfect getaway for those who love being immersed in nature and disconnecting from the world, without sacrificing comfort.
Día de Los Muertos in Mexico: A Visual Guide

Day of the Dead, or Día de Muertos, is celebrated from October 31 to November 2 every year. It is one of Mexico’s most visually striking and deeply spiritual traditions, with roots that trace back to pre-Hispanic civilizations like the Mexica, Maya, and Purepecha. Blending ancient beliefs with Catholicism, it honors the dead by inviting their souls back to the world of the living through celebrations full of color, music, and food.
Día de Muertos symbolismDay of the Dead is about the profound connection between the living and the departed. This connection is manifested through the use of iconic elements, from the traditional sugar skulls to elaborate altars. Locals and tourists alike are not only drawn by the aesthetic appeal of the celebration, but by the deep meaning behind every trinket that adorns traditional ofrendas and the graves at local cemeteries.
La ofrenda
Photo: Marcos Castillo/Shutterstock

Photo: Santiago Castillo Chomel/Shutterstock

Photo: Santiago Castillo Chomel/Shutterstock

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Ofrendas are the heart of Day of the dead celebrations across Mexico, serving as the central element through which families honor and remember their loved ones. These altars, adorned with photographs, food, candles, flowers, and personal mementos, are believed to guide the souls of the departed back to the world of the living.
Cempasúchil: The flower of the dead
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Vibrant cempasúchil flowers (the local name for native marigolds) are one of the most characteristic elements of the ofrenda. The flower’s use dates back to pre-Hispanic times, when the Aztecs associated it with the sun and the afterlife. The use of marigolds in spiritual celebrations is not exclusive to Mexico: in Hindu traditions, marigolds are offered to deities during festivals like Diwali.
Pan de muerto
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Of course, no celebration in Mexico comes without delicious traditional food. Pan de muerto (bread of the dead) is essential to Día de los Muertos festivities. There are several kinds of pan de muerto, but the most traditional one is a round piece of bread with bone-shaped pieces of dough on top.
Calaveras
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The colorful sugar skulls found in every ofrenda are not mere visual trinkets. Each of these flavorful calaveras are meant to represent a specific person to whom the altar is dedicated. Sugar is the most traditional material, but calaveras made of amaranth, chocolate, and other sweets can be found in every Mexican market.
Catrinas
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Originally based on a popular character designed by José Guadalupe Posada more than a hundred years ago, Catrinas are now one of the most renown symbols of Day of the Dead worldwide. Dressing up as a Catrina is now a usual way for people to participate in Día de los Muertos events all around Mexico.
Key events on Día de los Muertos Processions
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Día de los Muertos processions in Mexico are solemn yet celebratory events where communities walk together to cemeteries, carrying candles, flowers, and offerings to honor their deceased loved ones. These processions are marked by a sense of reverence and often culminate in overnight vigils at cemeteries. More tourism-friendly processions —like Mexico City’s Procesión de Catrinas— have been a common occurrence in recent years.
Cemetery vigils
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Candlelit vigils, or alumbradas, are popular events where people gather in their local cemeteries to celebrate Día de los Muertos with their dearly departed. Preparations start days before by cleaning the cemeteries, decorating graves with cempasúchil flowers, papel picado (paper with intricate cut designs), photos, and candles. During the first two nights of November, cemeteries come to life with live music, the light of countless candles, and the fuss of thousands — tourists and locals alike — in a celebration of life and remembrance.
Parades
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Parades are the most recent inclusion to the repertoire of Día de los Muertos celebrations in Mexico. The now traditional Mexico City parade started less than a decade ago after the release of Spectre, the James Bond movie that features a Día de los Muertos celebration in the opening scene. The event is an impressive display of Día de los Muertos symbolism and Mexican folklore, but it lacks the depth and spirituality of other celebrations. Día de los Muertos parades also take places in cities like Puebla, Guadalajara, and Aguscalientes.
Notable regional celebrationsOaxaca
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Oaxaca holds one of the most vibrant and culturally rich Día de los Muertos celebrations in Mexico. The deep connections to indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec traditions and the artistic expressions characteristic of the region combine to make one of the most unique, traditional, and visually appealing Día de los Muertos experiences.
More like thisEpic StaysGrab Your Crew and Book These Oaxaca and CDMX Airbnbs for Dia de Los MuertosPatzcuaro, Michoacan
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The Purepecha people of Michoacan hold a deep belief that the souls of the dead come back to Earth as butterflies. Day of the Dead coincides with the annual migration of monarch butterflies to the local forests, creating a profound connection between nature and the spiritual world. Día de los Muertos celebrations in Michoacan occur in the region of Lake Patzcuaro, especially in Janitzio Island and in the Purepecha town of Tzintzuntzan.
Mixquic, Mexico City
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Mixquic maintains a very religious and spiritual approach to Día de los Muertos with its local cemetery playing a central role in the celebrations. The all-night vigil that takes place in Mixquic is one of the best recognized Día de los Muertos events in Mexico, and it greatly contrasts with more tourism-oriented events in Mexico City.
La Huasteca
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The indigenous communities of La Huasteca — a region in Central Mexico that spans through San Luis Potosí, Veracruz, Hidalgo, and Tamaulipas — celebrate Xantolo. This is a community celebration of Nahua and Teenek origins with specific rituals that set it apart from other Día de los Muertos celebrations in Mexico. One of its most recognizable aspects is the dance of the huehues, a ritualistic dance where people in wooden masks roam through their neighborhood in search of offerings.
The 10 Top Rated Restaurants in Maui

The food in Hawai’i is defined by the fresh produce of the island’s land and ocean. Maui’s restaurant scene is varied. But at the core of many establishments — and certainly many of those on this list of the top-rated Maui restaurants — is a celebration of locally grown and harvested ingredients that tell a story of the many cultures that have come through, or stayed rooted on, the island.
“The food scene on Maui is a collection of plantation-era cultural influence from around the world, including Asian, Portuguese, Western, and traditional Hawaiian,” says Ian Marshall of Mamaʻs Fish House Restaurant in Paia. You’ll see from this list, three sushi spots made the top 10. Perhaps this is hardly surprising considering poke is a staple and fish is abundant, but if raw is not your thing, most have side menus of dumplings and grilled dishes. There’s also a nice range of casual lunch spots and a couple of places you’ll need to leave your sand-covered sandals at the hotel and smarten up for an evening with chefs and their tasting menu.
Being an island, any fresh produce that is not available has to be shipped in. This means you’ll find menus change frequently, and many, if not most, establishments will have a daily catch or other season-dependent specials. Marshall says this makes for very creative kitchens and teams who have to work hard to keep on top of what’s been harvested.
The top 10 Maui restaurants listed here are ranked through Yelp and Google Map reviews out of five and combined for an aggregate rating out of 10. To make sure the business has ironed out any new restaurant kinks, only those with more than 250 reviews were considered. This list doesn’t include restaurants still closed by the devastating wildfire in 2023. Most of these are in Lahaina on the island’s western shore. Restoration efforts are still in progress. Although reviews have to be taken with a heavy pinch of salt, these are the top 10 places to eat in Maui, according to people who have either visited to eat or frequent regularly.
Traveling to Hawaiʻi? Check out Matador’s guides to the best places to stay on every island:These Are the Best Hotels in Waikiki, Minutes From the Sand, for All BudgetsExperience the Best of Honolulu at These Luxury Resort HotelsThe coolest Airbnbs on O’ahuThe best Airbnbs on Hawai’i’s Big Island13 stunning yet affordable Airbnbs on Kaua’iThese Hotels on Hawai’i’s Big Island Showcase the State’s Best BeachesMiss Arepa

Photo: Miss Arepa
Rating: 9.7 (4.9 Google Maps, 4.8 Yelp)
“We’re a family-owned and operated,” says Gabby of Venezuelan restaurant Miss Arepa. “We want everyone to feel comfortable and welcomed as if they were stepping into their grandmother’s kitchen ready to be fed,” she continues. Located in west Maui, Miss Arepa celebrates the classic comfort food of South America with a local twist. Many of the dishes are gluten-free and vegan. Gabby says one of the most popular is the Patacon Sandwich with carne asada with a side of yuca fries. Pair that with a refreshing frozen fresh mango drink. Go to Miss Arepa for lunch or a casual dinner.
Miss Arepa: 3600 Lower Honoapiilani Rd suite a, Lahaina, HI 96761
My Thai MauiView this post on InstagramA post shared by MY THAI MAUI
(@mythaimaui)
Rating: 9.5 (4.8 Google Maps, 4.7 Yelp)
For Thai flavorful and fresh dishes with a side of quirkiness, eat at family-run My Thai Maui. Expect all the favorites — summer rolls, drunken noodles, and larb salad — along with daily specials. You can even customize your spice level to suit your taste. As well as offering an authentic Thai menu, this place is packed with character. The check-in and ordering area has a Star Wars theme, and previous customers recommend taking your time here to enjoy the excellent food and take in the vibe. That said, reviewers also rave about the fast service and dishes come take-out style, so you can grab a table or sit outside in the sunshine. Prices are reasonable, and portions are generous.
My Thai Maui: 230 Hana Hwy, Kahului, HI 96732
nyloSView this post on InstagramA post shared by nyloS (@nylosmaui)
Rating: 9.4 (4.7 Google Maps, 4.7 Yelp)
Go to nyloS for the chef, Jermy Solyn’s tasting menu. Situated in Paia, one of the best stops on Maui’s road to Hana Longer, this dining experience will set you back $230 — $300. The 14-seat dining room offers an up-close dinner with the chefs as they prepare each dish. The six-course, pre-fixe tasting menu features high-quality ingredients, including A5 Wagyu beef, Petrossian caviar, Hudson Valley foie gras, lobster, king crab, bluefin tuna, and local Hawaiian produce. Established in 2017, nyloS has consistently received positive reviews and awards from various publications, as well as Yelp and Google Maps. Due to its small size and family-run nature, reservations are required and can be made through OpenTable from Wednesday to Saturday from 6:30 PM.
nyloS: 115 Baldwin Ave, Paia, HI 96779
Mama’s Fish House


Rating: 9.2 (4.7 Google Maps, 4.5 Yelp)
Mama’s is a family-owned restaurant founded in 1973 by Doris and Floyd Christenson. The restaurant is now managed by their daughter, Karen, with the assistance of several long-term employees and two founders’ grandchildren. Mama’s specializes in fresh, locally sourced seafood dishes. One of their most popular is the Macnut Crusted Hawaiian Kanpachi stuffed with crab and lobster. Recent additions to the menu include a Kona Kanpachi tartar appetizer and a slow-smoked venison entree from Molokaʻi. The restaurant is in a picturesque coconut grove overlooking Kūʻau Cove, a popular spot for observing turtles and windsurfers.
Mama’s Fish House: 799 Poho Pl, Paia, HI 96779, United States
1054TogoshiView this post on InstagramA post shared by AUTHENTIC SUSHI ON MAUI (@1054togoshi)
Rating: 9.2 (4.6 Google Maps, 4.6 Yelp)
Tucked away in the South Maui Center, 1054 Togoshi is a small but renowned sushi restaurant in Kihei. This intimate eatery, run by husband-and-wife team Manabu and Satoe Sugiyama, is praised for its fresh, high-quality seafood. The chefs expertly craft each piece of sushi, ensuring the fish shines through. Popular menu items include nigiri sushi, sashimi, and specialty rolls like the Spider and Dragon Roll. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak seasons.
1054Togoshi: A-104, e, 95 E Lipoa St, Kihei, HI 96753
Kula Bistro
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Rating: 9.2 (4.7 Google Maps, 4.5 Yelp)
In the charming town of Kula, Kula Bistro offers delightful home-style food with stunning views of the surrounding upcountry landscape. The family-owned restaurant is renowned for its innovative cuisine that celebrates local Hawaiian flavors and global influences, especially from Italy. Kula Bistro’s menu showcases a variety of dishes, from fresh seafood to hearty meat entrees. Some popular choices include the locally caught fish of the day, the Kula Bistro Burger with house-made bacon jam, slow-roasted prime rib, and loco moco — white rice, topped with a hamburger patty, gravy, and a fried egg — a local favorite.
Kula Bistro: 4566 Lower Kula Rd, Kula, HI 96790
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Rating: 9.1 (4.6 Google Maps, 4.5 Yelp)
There are many sushi restaurants in Maui that reviewers claim serve the very best, and Oao is one of them. Oao (pronounced “wow”) has three goals: outstanding dishes, amazing service, and high-quality produce. The fish is sourced from the freshest (and closest) source, and although local ingredients are used as much as possible, they keep the cookery authentic to its Japanese roots. A great lunch spot, the happy hour runs from 12:00 PM to 5:00 PM daily, where you can expect up to 30 percent off select rolls, foods, and beverages.
Oao: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl, Kihei, HI 96753
Nalu’s South Shore Grill
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Rating: 9.1 (4.6 Google Maps, 4.5 Yelp)
Nalu’s South Shore Grill is a busy seafront spot crammed from breakfast to lunch with locals and visitors. If you can get a table, it’s where you want to eat during the day in Kihei. Expect a laid-back atmosphere, ocean views, and a fun all-day breakfast menu (with dishes like Nalu’s Lolo Moco made with homemade organic tofu and chicken and waffles served with crisp applewood smoked bacon and brown butter). Lunch can go in many directions. There are dishes such as the mountainous quinoa bowl, homemade crab cakes with Kumu Farms organic greens, a slow-roasted pork shoulder burger, and Pacific Mahi Mahi sautéed with lilikoi-piccata vinaigrette. The kid’s menu is a welcoming touch with loaded grilled cheese, tempura battered Mahi Mahi and chips, and a smashed meatball teriyaki bowl.
Nalu’s South Shore Grill: 1280 S Kihei Rd, Kihei, HI 96753
Fond
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Rating: 9.1 (4.6 Google Maps, 4.5 Yelp)
Fond serves predominantly modern Hawaiian cuisine. For dinner, you might want to change out of your swimmers as this is an upscale establishment. Known for its creative menu, impeccable service, and stunning ocean views, this is another place you’ll need to book in advance. Owned and operated by chef Jojo Vasquez, Vasquez, and Fond has been recognized by various awards, including the James Beard Foundation. “I have been chasing this dream since culinary school,” says Vasquez. “Our team looks forward to creating a stellar, culturally inspired, and fun dining experience for the Maui community.” On a Sunday, you can join Vasquez for his Chef’s Counter, and the Tuesday to Saturday dinner menu features plates such as Maui sirloin and catch of the day with seasonal vegetables, Maui onion soubise, and a pickled ginger remoulade.
Fond: 5095 Napilihau St suite 115, Lahaina, HI 96761
Miso Phat SushiView this post on InstagramA post shared by Miso Phat Sushi – Kihei, Maui (@misophatkihei)
Rating: 9.0 (4.6 Google Maps, 4.4 Yelp)
This family-run sushi bar is an excellent spot in Kihei for a quick bite at lunch or dinner. The business is run by Joy Steadman, who has over 20 years of experience in the restaurant industry. Miso Phat prides itself on serving the freshest sushi using high-quality fish selected daily. There’s everything you’d expect from a sushi bar — nigiri and sashimi, specialty sushi rolls, and temaki hand rolls. Reviewers suggest ordering the sharable combo platters if visiting with family or a group. Takeout is also available, ideal for those with a nearby rental or who would rather enjoy a picnic by the ocean.
Miso Phat Sushi: 1279 S Kihei Rd #108, Kihei, HI 96753
More like thisBeaches and IslandsWhere to Find the Best Beaches in MauiOctober 16, 2024
Rushed Construction, a Seawall, and a ‘Road to Nowhere’: How One of Bali’s Most Famous Surf Breaks May Change Forever

To reach the wave at Uluwatu on the Indonesian island of Bali, you trek down a steep, pale limestone cliff, surfboard tucked under your arm, until you come upon a cave. If the tide is high, the cave will be full of sloshing water. At low and medium tide, the cavity is easier to traverse. You exit onto a sandy cove and look out onto the pulsing azure waves.
“Walking down the cliff and through the beautiful cave is very spiritual,” says Rizal Tanjung, a Bali local and one of Indonesia’s best known surfers. Add to the scene the Uluwatu Temple, which reigns over the waves from atop a 230-foot-high promontory, and the vibe is serene.
Then there’s the wave itself: a consistently peeling left that seems to go on forever, followed by another and then another. During the April to October dry season, multiple take-off points work in every type of tide.
“Uluwatu is one of the most perfect waves in the world. From 6:30 [AM] to 6:30 [PM], the trade winds are blowing offshore all day,” Tanjung says while describing ideal conditions. Offshore winds hold waves open and allow for a longer ride on the wave face. The wave works whether the swell measures two feet or 20, adds Tanjung. “It’s a big playground … if you travel from all over the world, guaranteed you’re going to score waves.”
The Uluwatu surf break is so magical that it became a “right of passage” for international surfers arriving in Indonesia, says Jason Childs, an Indonesia-based photographer who’s snapped images for dozens of major publications. That wave’s global renown explains why recent events in Uluwatu have shaken the surf community not just in Bali – but well beyond.
“There’s been so much reaction from surfers around the world because it’s such an important wave,” Childs says.
In August, surfers at Uluwatu were shocked to discover bulldozers rasping into the cliffside below the temple, causing massive chunks of limestone to fall into the ocean below, endangering the delicate inner reef.
“They just started working on this project so fast,” Tanjung says. “The surf community freaked out. We started posting stories.”
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The Badung Regency government responded to the uproar with a video forecasting the construction of a massive seawall that it says is needed to shore up the cliff and protect Uluwatu Temple. Also known as Para Luhur, the temple has seemed threatened since a crack first appeared in the cliff in 1992.
The temple, which is sacred to the Balinese people, is also a major tourist draw. Three to five thousand people a day visit Para Luhur, drawn by not only the graceful 11th century structure, but also the sweeping ocean vista, plucky monkeys scurrying about, and fire dancers who perform nightly in an adjacent amphitheater.
Everyone I spoke to, from local surfers to international organizers committed to preserving waves, respected the need to preserve the temple. But none could see how the current work would achieve that aim. To build the seawall, a broad road wide enough for trucks has been carved – bizarrely eroding the bluff it’s meant to save. Currently the road quickly ends, leading some who have commented on the construction to call it the “road to nowhere.”

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All that surfers can see at the moment is the damage. Englebert Tomasouw, a representative for Chilli Surfboards who lives in Bali, says he and fellow surfers were stunned to see machines “destroying the cliff,” leaving the water murky with limestone dust and driving away the local wildlife like the dugong (a marine mammal related to manatees).
“Dugong are vegan, they eat seaweed. So they just swim close to the temple and even the cave. It’s like a garden for them,” Tomasouw says. “It’s sad. I never saw them anymore after this happened. It just makes all these creatures of the ocean run away.”
Tomasouw also says that the normally sweet scent of offshore wind has been replaced with dust. “In the dry season, it’s fresh, you smell the ocean, it’s beautiful. But now it’s just dusty, everyone’s coughing.”
Waves break – that is, the swell turns into a curl with a lip of whitewater – when they hit a surface, and the nature of that surface affects the kind of wave you get. Sandy bottoms are constantly shifting, so the peak of the wave can change from season to season or even day to day. Reefs offer consistent waves with predictable takeoff points. And an ideal reef can produce an ideal wave, like the one at Uluwatu — so far.
Construction that allows rocks to fall into the ocean changes the surface and impacts the wave. It also endangers wildlife, which damages the reef and alters when and how the wave breaks. The erection of a seawall is also likely to disrupt the natural flow of sand, which can also disturb the waves.
Should the Uluwatu wave, or the waves just south of it, be irreversibly damaged, it wouldn’t be the first time a wave is destroyed with surfers helpless to do anything about it.
In the early 2000s, William Henry was surfing one of his favorite waves on the Portuguese island of Madeira, a place he’d been visiting annually for over a decade, when he saw some construction and learned that a harbor would be built there.
Stunned, Henry campaigned to stop construction. “There was a total ignorance on the island of what made the surfing wave special,’” Henry says. “There was a widespread lack of knowledge from the general public about surfing, and not only what makes a good wave, but the potential economic benefits of having good surf right nearby.”
Henry’s frustration at seeing wave after wave ruined on Madeira inspired him to start the Save the Waves Foundation in 2003 and head it for its first six years. “We were dealing with things in a reactive manner, for the most part, because these types of issues were popping up all over the world,” says Henry of the early days.
Eventually, Save the Waves began working proactively with local communities to set up Surf Protected Area Networks, which use legal measures to protect waves, and World Surfing Reserves. The impetus for the reserves, says Henry, was a conversation with Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard, who asked why there wasn’t a “World Heritage” designation for waves.
“Uluwatu was the first surf discovery in Indonesia. Without Uluwatu, Bali wouldn’t have become the tourist destination that it is today.”The selling point of wave protection, says Henry, who remains a Save the Waves board member, is the economic benefit that surfing brings. Save the Waves produces financial impact statements to explain to local communities that surfing is good for their economies.
Ericeira, Portugal, for example, became Europe’s first World Surfing Reserve in 2011. At several of the surf breaks, signage about ability levels, shoreside rentals and lessons, restaurants, and other businesses are on par with the amenities found at mountain ski resorts. As Ericeira has become one of Europe’s top surfing destinations, the economic benefits of conserving its surf breaks have been immeasurable.
“You can talk to them about conservation, and most of these political leaders and business leaders … their eyes just glass over,” Henry says. “They don’t really care about conservation. They care about money. And, unfortunately, that’s kind of the language you have to put it in. That’s why we did economic studies.”
Given that Bali’s modern economy grew up with surfing, protecting its most famous wave should be self-evident.
“So now there’s an awful lot of proof that a wave is worth money, and there should be an awful lot of proof on the island of Bali too,” Henry adds. “Uluwatu was the first surf discovery in Indonesia. Without Uluwatu, Bali wouldn’t have become the tourist destination that it is today.”
Echoing the frustration that Henry felt in Madeira, surfboard rep Tomasouw says, “In Bali, we live by tourism … like, a thousand percent is from surfing.” Despite that, however, he’s seen other surf breaks marred by development, like the Nikko, which was wrecked by a seawall built for a new hotel. “They must understand the water movement … so they don’t destroy the wave, the break for surfing.”
It may be that other revenue sources are trying to outcompete surfing. Tanjung has seen his island change profoundly since he was a young surfer walking 45 minutes through roadless jungle just to reach the cliffs of Uluwatu three decades ago. Most recently, he says that expats who were based in Ubud – the ones he says “come to Bali to find themselves in a lost world” – have been taken with Uluwatu. These expats aren’t surfers, but they love the ocean view, and they’ve helped fuel a building boom.
The absence of clear communication from the local government about the Uluwatu project has gotten the rumor mill spinning – with surfers fearing new hotels, roads along the coast, and even a road down to Uluwatu Beach itself, where beachgoers would be charged per visit.
“Everybody [is] kind of guessing what it actually is, because there hasn’t been official plans released besides that one video,” says Emmet Balassone, who coordinates the endangered waves campaign for Save the Waves. “There just hasn’t been a lot of transparency at all around this project.”
Frustration about the lack of information caused local surfers to contact Save the Waves, says Balassone. The foundation has filed a request for an Environmental Impact Assessment, which he says should have been undertaken before beginning construction. “You can do these projects without an [environmental] assessment in Indonesia if it’s for an emergency purpose, but there is no state of emergency that was declared,” says Balassone.
At least the outcry has been somewhat effective, says Balassone, since the Bali Attorney General’s Office is now investigating the Badung Regency and its Building and Public Works Agency to assess potential construction permit and license violations.

Photo: EnthusiasticPhotographers/Shutterstock
That doesn’t halt the construction that has already begun. “What they’re doing now is kind of the worst case scenario. It seems a little overkill with how big the seawall is in that CGI video that the government released, and how far out it goes into the reef,” he says.
At a minimum, whatever construction is going on could be better managed. When Bali was less wealthy, limestone was saved and resold. The construction company should at least be forced to stop the limestone going into the water, says Tomasouw.
“You can’t just go pushing debris and rocks and stuff off of a cliff into the water where, literally, one of Indonesia’s most famous premier surf spots is,” Save the Waves founder Henry says. “It’s nuts.”
For now, surfers remained concerned. Tomasouw says that the old days of palling around with your friends out on the water and commenting on the waves have been replaced with worry. The buzz of the machinery is a constant reminder. “Every time we go there, we just talk about it,” he says. “We surf a few waves, and then we look back at the cliff. We just talk about it.”
William Henry has some advice for the local government. “I guess I would say be careful, because this is a pivotal point in your history. You know, you have decisions to make about how future development is handled on your island, and you need to protect your resources. And surfing is one of your greatest resources.”
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