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One of the Booziest Cities in Europe Just Banned Pub Crawls

It may be in Europe’s booziest country, but the Czech Republic’s capital of Prague recently implemented a ban on organized nighttime pub crawls, effective from 10 PM to 6 AM. Advocats say it’s part of an effort to reduce issues arising from excessive alcohol consumption and disruptive behavior among tourists in the city known for having the heaviest drinkers in Europe, at an annual average of 481 beer per person.

The measure was approved by city officials in October 2024 and specifically targets pub crawls organized by travel agencies, which often cater to foreign tourists, including those on bachelor parties or graduation trips. Deputy Mayor Jiří Pospíšil told the BBC that it represents the city’s desire to attract a more “refined” visitor, and also cited issues related to public cleanliness and noise concerns.

The ban does not apply to unofficial pub crawls organized by groups of friends — only those organized for commercial purposes or by tourism agencies.

Enforcement of the ban will be carried out by city police, with organizers who violate the ban facing fines of up to 100,000 koruna (approximately $4,300). The move aligns Prague with other European cities that have implemented specific measures to manage the effects of mass tourism. Barcelona banned pub crawls in its city center in 20212 and voted in 2024 to extend the ban to at least 2028. Other cities have also taken measures aimed at addressing unruly tourists, including Amsterdam, Netherlands, which banned smoking cannabis on the streets in tourist-heavy parts of the city center in 2023, and Venice, Italy, which banned large cruise ships in 2021 and instituted a day-trip fee for tourists in 2024.

Prague has a rich and longstanding history with beer, something woven deeply into its culture. Beer brewing in Prague began in monasteries as early as the 10th century, and by the 12th century, breweries had become common across the city. Pilsner beer, now one of the most popular beer styles in the world, originated in Plzeň (Pilsen) in 1842 and quickly became world famous. Pubs in Prague are central to social life, and its beers are among the most affordable in Europe.

Unfortunately, Prague also has a recent history of incidents with inconsiderate tourists, especially in its historic Old Town. The city has attracted large numbers of visitors in the last decade, and hostels will often organize pub crawls for guests, leading to noise disturbances, littering, and overcrowding.

Nearby cities that haven’t banned pub crawls

A ruins bar in Budapest, Hungary. Photo: PHOTOMDP/Shutterstock

While Prague may be doing its best to cut down on pub crawls, there are plenty of other cities in Eastern Europe know for great pub scenes, affordable beer, and deep-rooted beer traditions.Belgrade, Serbia: Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter, is filled with old-style kafanas (traditional Serbian taverns), bars, and pubs that offer affordable beers. The Savamala District is also a popular place for pub crawls, given its lively nightclubs and bars along the river. Belgrade’s beer culture is newer but steadily growing, with Jelen likely being its most popular domestic beer.Kraków, Poland: The historic Kazimierz district in Kraków is a top destination for pub crawls, with a mix of traditional Polish pubs, stylish bars, and craft breweries blending rich history with a lively bar scene. The neighborhood fell into disrepair after WWII, but saw renewed interest after the fall of communism (and the release of Schindler’s List, much of which was filmed in Kazimierz). Now, it’s once again lively, vibrant, and popular with tourists.Budapest, Hungary: The Jewish Quarter, especially around Kazinczy Street, is famous for its “ruin bars” — bars housed in abandoned buildings decorated with eclectic and often vintage decor. Szimpla Kert, the most famous ruin pub, is a must-visit, known for its quirky setting and budget-friendly drinks in a unique historical space. More like thisFood + DrinkHow to Enjoy the World’s Cheapest, Freshest Beer in Hanoi, Vietnam

Camera Roll: A Seven-Day Wildlife-Watching Trip Around the Galápagos Islands

I never thought I’d actually make it to the Galápagos Islands. The journey to get there spanned no less than three days and involved three border crossings, a 3.5-hour car ride, and five flights, some with very tight connections. For weeks before, and until I stepped foot on San Cristóbal, I was sure that something big was going to go awry, preventing me and my partner to make this dream trip a reality. Instead, everything went like clockwork.

Less than one hour after landing in the islands, and even before boarding the Ecoventura ship that was to take us around the remote archipelago for the next seven days, we were already oohing and ahhing at the wildlife we could see. Huge pelicans were flying overhead, small marine iguanas were sunbathing on the rocks, and several sea lions, unbothered by our presence, dotted the pier we had to use to get to our ship. Antonio, the naturalist guide who accompanied us, pointed out a pregnant sea lion and taught us how to distinguish a male (a bull) from a female (a cow). My ears were still plugged from the flight, yet I was already a only few feet away from an endemic species, and receiving a spontaneous zoology lesson. That was a sign of things to come.

For seven days, my partner and I, along with 12 other passengers from the ship and two naturalist guides, traveled around the northern and western part of the archipelago, visiting a total of seven islands. Each destination on the itinerary was more captivating than the next: the volcanic landscapes, the fauna, and the wildlife, whether on land, in the air, or underwater, left us in awe.

The wildlife that we got to see, most of which is unique to this part of the world, is what fascinated us most. With no predators on the islands, the animals we saw aren’t afraid of humans. They let us stare at and photograph them from only six feet away without flinching. Standing so close to such impressive animals felt like an immense privilege. Each photograph in this essay captures not only the beauty and uniqueness of the species we encountered, but the immense trust they had in us to keep them unharmed and safe.

On our second day, we went for a gentle walk around Genovesa Island’s Darwin Bay. Genovesa is located in the northeastern region of the archipelago and is known as “The Bird Island” for the many avian species that nest there. We got to see adult and baby nazca and red-footed boobies, swallow-tailed gulls, Darwin finches, mockingbirds, lava herons, and frigatebirds. Baby frigatebirds, with their very fuzzy, white down and very long beaks are both comical and adorable. Photo: Jesse Adams

Later that same day, after some snorkeling and kayaking, we went for walk on the other side of Genovesa: Prince Philip’s Steps. We were lucky enough to spot two Galápagos short-eared owls near a large crevasse. Indifferent to our presence, one of them attempted to catch a small marine iguana, an unusual meal for the species that tend to feed on rats, lava lizards, and birds. Photo: Jesse Adams

The Galápagos giant tortoise is not only the most iconic animal in the archipelago, it’s also the creature that gave it its name. The Spanish term galápago originally meant ‘tortoise’. Photo: Jesse Adams

On day three, we made land at the aptly named Cerro Dragon, or Dragon Hill, on the island of Santa Cruz. There, we saw a dozen or so yellow land iguanas, some walking around, some in their burrows, other patiently waiting under opuntia cacti for their nutritious fruits to fall. The yellow land iguana is one of three land iguana species that are endemic to the Galápagos Islands alongside the Santa Fe land iguana and the Galápagos pink land iguana. Photo: Jesse Adams

The Galápagos sea lions are found all over the archipelago, both on land and underwater. Like the rest of the wildlife around the islands, it tends to be indifferent to human presence. That said, while they are playful and come close to snorkelers and divers underwater, they should not be approached closer than six feet while encountered on land. Photo: Jesse Adams

The Bolivar Channel, the narrow band of water between the islands of Fernandina and Isabela, is the best place to see whales and orcas in the Galápagos Islands. We were lucky enough to follow (at a respectful distance) a mother humpback whale and her calf for 30 minutes one morning. Photo: Jesse Adams

The only lizzard in the world capable of living and eating at sea, the marine iguana is a species endemic to the Galápagos Islands. During our trip we saw hundreds upon hundreds of marine iguanas, both on land, where they lie on rocks to warm themselves up in the sun, and underwater, where they use their tail to swim and their claws to hold onto rocks to forage for algae. Photo: Jesse Adams

The brightly colored Sally lightfoot crabs are found all over the shores and beaches of the islands. They are very agile and can jump, climb, and run effortlessly and very quickly, hence their name. The Sally lightfoot crab sprays water when it feels threatened. Photo: Jesse Adams

The only species of penguin found above the Equator, the Galápagos penguin is the third smallest penguin in the world. While they rest on rocky shores, their black plumage act as camouflage. Under water, the Galápagos penguin are incredibly fast, reaching speeds of over 20 miles per hour when hunting. This particular individual was spotted in Tagus Cove on Isabela Island. Photo: Jesse Adams

While I had never seen a pelican before, I saw hundreds of them in the Galápagos Islands. The Galápagos brown pelican is huge, with a wingspan of 80 inches, and a large beak with a distinctive pouch. We were lucky to see dozens of brown pelican nests around Tagus Cove, all filled with multiple babies that were white , fuzzy, and much bigger than their parents. That did not stop them from noisily begging their moms and dads for food, however. Photo: Jesse Adams

While there are only a few hundreds flamingos in the Galápagos Islands, we managed to see them twice: once on the island of Santa Cruz and once on Rabida Island, both times in a group of 10 or less feeding in inland saltwater lagoons. Photo: Jesse Adams

The Galápagos sea lion is the most common mammal in the Galápagos archipelago. Note that sea lions and seals are different; sea lions have external ears where seals have holes, they use their back flippers to walk on land, and they are much bigger than seals. Photo: Jesse Adams

This beautiful Galápagos giant tortoise with a dome shell (as opposed to a saddle-backed shell), used the hiking trail as its own personal pathway and forced us all to move aside to let it pass. It walked, slowly, as you would expect, just inches away from us. All of us felt silent and observed it with the reverence it deserved. Photo: Jesse Adams

Another iconic species of the archipelago (although not endemic), the blue-footed booby is easily recognizable thanks to its bright blue feet. Their name comes from the Spanish word bobo meaning ‘silly’.

Galápagos fur seals have thicker fur than sea lions and are shorter and a broader, but they belong to the same family of eared seals. This particular individual was spotted on the rocky shore of Santiago Island. Photo: Jesse Adams

A species endemic to the Galápagos Islands, the Galápagos flightless cormorant has lost its ability to fly but retains a pair of small, stunted wings. The flightless cormorant can be spotted on the shoreline of the islands of Isabela and Fernandina. Photo: Jesse Adams

After spending time foraging for algae in the ocean, marine iguanas need to warm themselves up by lounging in the sun, preferably on hot lava rock. Lying on top of each other helps them stay warm. Photo: Jesse Adams

More like thisTravelWhat I Packed for a Magical Week of Sea, Sun, and Wildlife-Watching in the Galápagos Islands

Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Memphis, Tennessee

Memphis is a soulful and historic city that’s become something of a magnet for young creatives and movers and shakers. It makes sense: The former stomping grounds of blues legend BB King, funkmaster Isaac Hayes, and rock-and-roll king Elvis Presley (whose Graceland mansion is open for tours) has a lot going for it, from live music and classic Southern cuisine to major landmarks like Beale Street. It’s also less than a four-hour drive south from Nashville.

Summer is a popular time to visit Memphis (and not just because of Elvis Week in August). Fall, when the scorching temperatures start to drop and the summer-break crowd heads back to school, also has its merits. Whenever you choose to come, here’s what you’ll want to see, do, and eat in Tennessee’s second largest city.

Things to do in Memphis

National Civil Rights Museum

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Formerly the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated, the National Civil Rights Museum still has Dr. King’s hotel room intact among a collection of historical artifacts significant to Black history. You can see them yourself with a general admission ticket, which also offers access to the museum’s Young and Morrow Building (the alleged location where Dr. King’s assassin confessed to shooting him) across the street from the main site.

National Civil Rights Museum: 450 Mulberry St, Memphis, TN 38103

Graceland Mansion Tour

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While Elvis may have left the building and is sadly no longer with us, the icon’s biggest fans can tour his former home to experience an enduring piece of his legacy. The interactive tour invites ticket holders into Presley’s personal space, including his living room, his parents’ bedroom, the Meditation Garden where he and some of his family members are buried, and other recognizable corners of the famous property on the aptly Elvis Presley Boulevard.

Graceland: Elvis Presley Blvd, Memphis, TN 38116

Stax Museum of American Soul Music

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Vintage records, nostalgic photographs, and Isaac Hayes’ gold-plated Cadillac are all exhibited at this former home of Stax Records, the recording studio where several American soul hits — including Otis Redding’s “(Sittin’ On) the Dock of the Bay” — were produced. This groovy museum showcases 2,000+ artifacts that once belonged to the label and its recording artists, from stage costumes to actual studio equipment and instruments that the artists used.

Stax Museum: 926 E McLemore Ave, Memphis, TN 38126

Memphis Zoo

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The first you’ll notice about the Memphis Zoo in Midtown is its Egyptian-inspired theme. It’s hard to miss as the entranceway wall is shaped like an Egyptian temple and covered with hieroglyphics. The highlight of my visit was feeding snacks to the giraffes (my favorite animal and something that I’ve always wanted to do). Depending on the time of year, you may get lucky and catch other seasonal experiences, such as the zoo’s springtime butterfly exhibit.

Memphis Zoo: 2000 Prentiss Pl, Memphis, TN 38112

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art

Photo: Julian Harper

At this museum, you’ll find artistic displays of world history and Memphis. Visit on a Saturday between 10 AM and 2 PM for free admission, or come on Sundays to avoid the crowd. Give yourself a decent amount of time to wander all three floors in one visit. The can’t-miss exhibitions when I visited were Memphis on the Mississippi, Summer Art Garden: Creatures of Paradise, and Andrea Morales: Roll Down Like Water. There’s even more art to explore outside the museum, including regal marble sculptures and eye-catching exterior paintings. You can also grab a coffee or quick snack at the onsite cafe.

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art: 1934 Poplar Ave, Memphis, TN 38104

Overton Park

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Home to the Memphis Zoo, the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, and several other Midtown Memphis mainstays, this centrally located 342-acre park puts you within walking distance (or a short Uber drive) from some of the city’s most treasured shops, restaurants, and tourist hot spots. Whether you’re in the mood for retail therapy, a high tea at 17 Berkshire, a sweet treat at Sweet Noshings, or live music at Lafayette’s Music Room or the Overton Park Shell, you don’t have to travel very far to have a good time.

Overton Park: 1914 Poplar Ave #202, Memphis, TN 38104

Where to eat and drink in Memphis

Complicated Pilgrim

Photo: Johnaé De Felicis

The Complicated Pilgrim is a coffee-to-cocktail bar that serves regional favorites with an international flair, from smoked pulled pork pot stickers to North African lamb ribs. Start your day at the Complicated Pilgrim (inside The Memphian Hotel) with a sunny-side-up breakfast, venture over in the afternoon for a midday lunch, or wine and dine at night while sharing meaningful dialogue with friends, colleagues, or your significant other.

Complicated Pilgrim: 21 Cooper St, Memphis, TN 38104

Babalu

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Samba over to Overton Square and you’ll find this casual dining spot where salsa meets good Southern eating. Perfect for Latin food lovers, the menu includes made-from-scratch tacos, quesadillas, Mexican street corn, or seafood, chicken, steak, or pork, plus guacamole that’s made fresh right in front of your table. There’s also a second location in East Memphis.

Babalu: 2115 Madison Ave, Memphis, TN 38104

Huey’s Midtown

Photo: Andrea Zucker

At this self-proclaimed world-famous burger joint, you’ll grub on some of the finest American cuisine in Memphis. Huey’s “Prescription” menu includes just what the doctor ordered for hungry travelers: specialty burgers, sandwiches, seafood platters, and chicken plates. Alternative ingredient substitutes (like gluten-free buns) and vegan-friendly options (including black bean and Beyond patties) are also on offer.

Huey’s Midtown: 1927 Madison Ave, Memphis, TN 38104

Tiger and Peacock

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Located in The Memphian Hotel, this prestige rooftop bar adds a cosmic twist to adult beverages and classic bar bites. Its astrological-themed menu includes bites like the “solstice salad” and a 12-drink collection of zodiac-inspired cocktails.

Tiger and Peacock: 21 Cooper St, Memphis, TN 38104

The Second Line

Photo: Alex Shansky

When you’re craving a hearty brunch or a taste of New Orleans away from the French Quarter, march your way to The Second Line. It’s a top Memphis destination for Louisiana comfort food, from chicken and andouille gumbo to the fried gulf oyster po’ boy sandwich. Try to stop by for brunch one late morning — the menu features Southern breakfast staples like gulf shrimp and grits, the chicken and waffle, and the avocado-crab Benedict.

The Second Line: 2144 Monroe Ave, Memphis, TN 38104

City & State

Photo: Andrea Zucker (left) + Alex Shansky (right)

This coffee shop and boutique hybrid is a crafting coffee lover’s dream. Order an espresso to go with a pastry, oatmeal, or protein bar while you’re at it for a morning refuel. The shop also doubles as a retail boutique where you’ll find thoughtful gifts and adorable decor.

City & State: 2625 Broad Ave, Memphis, TN 38112

Where to stay in Memphis

The Memphian Hotel

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Standing tall and pretty in Overton Square, this Midtown Memphis hotel (part of Marriott’s Tribute Portfolio collection) sits in the middle of it all. A brief stroll will get you to The Second Line and many other local restaurants, shops, and sights. You can also stay put at the hotel and take a short elevator ride to one of its on-site dining spots: the trendy Complicated Pilgrim or the oh-so-fierce Tiger and Peacock bar. As a disclaimer: There’s nothing basic about The Memphian (and I mean that in a good way). It may as well be called an art gallery because every floor is decked out with maximalist decor, from the lobby’s vibrant pop art and rainbow-colored fish bobbin chandelier to Tiger and Peacock’s animal-esque ambiance.

The Memphian: 21 Cooper St, Memphis, TN 38104

Getting to and around Memphis

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Several airlines service Memphis International Airport (MEM), including United, American, Delta, Southwest, Frontier, and Spirit. Once you’re in town, navigating Memphis is a literal walk in the park, especially if you’re in the Midtown area where Overton Square is located. Most of the city’s hot spots are within a short distance from there, whether you’re trying to get to the Memphis Zoo in Overton Park or Beale Street in Downtown Memphis. For anything else, Memphis has a comprehensive public transportation service (MATA) and easy access to rideshares.

More like thisEpic StaysThe Best Memphis Airbnbs to Experience the City's Music, Culture, and Cuisine

The Best Ski-In/Ski-Out Airbnbs in Park City Minutes From the Slopes

Park City’s ski resort is one of the largest in North America, with over 7,300 skiable acres and over 330 trails and slopes. The mountain’s high altitude and abundant snowfall create ideal conditions for powder hounds, while the well-groomed trails offer a smooth ride for those who prefer a more relaxed pace. With an average of 350 inches (or more) of excellent snow per season, it’s no surprise that come December through to March, the city is packed with snow sports enthusiasts. Hotels and lodges book out far in advance, and to be honest, Airbnbs do too. But there’s still time to score an excellent rental for a weekend away or a longer snow vacation if you get a shoop on.

Here, we have the top options for group-sized homes, perfect for families or friends who don’t want the expense of shelling out for multiple rooms at a hotel and would rather hang out together for an après-ski in the comfort of a home base. These are the best ski-in/ski-out Park City Airbnbs.

We hope you love the ski-in/ski-out Park City Airbnbs we recommend! Just so you know, Matador may collect a small commission from the links on this page if you decide to book a stay. Listed prices are accurate as of the time of publication.

4-bedroom luxury house with a panoramic rooftop

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This rental is hosted by a property management company specializing in luxury vacation rentals in Park City. A stay here promises the best of both worlds: a quiet location yet only minutes from the snow. It’s just over a mile to Deer Valley Resort and under two miles from Park City Moutain Resort, and the free shuttle service stops just a few steps from the front door. The four-bedroom home sleeps 10 and has an epic rooftop terrace with a hot tub and panoramic views (including a front-row seat to the happenings on Iron Mountain). There are also three huge outdoor decks, one with a grill and fire pit for après-ski hangs. The interior is open-concept, ideal for entertaining, and the kitchen is top-tier. All practicalities have been considered, including a mud room and a secure two-car garage.

10 guests, four bedrooms
Price: $404 per night

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Top 10 percent 4-bedroom Airbnb with a rooftop spa

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Another equally impressive four-bedroom Airbnb in a prime location is this modern mountain home with a rooftop deck spa and views of Old Town. Called “Big Blue,” this Airbnb was recently remodeled in 2022 and features modern appliances and has an excellent rating from previous guests. In fact, it’s one of Airbnbs top 10 percent listings. There’s a free trolley that takes three or so minutes to reach down the road, which will take you directly to the Town Lift and transit center, and you can get to Main Street in five minutes. If you’re coming in by car, there’s a heated two-car garage with extra storage space for boards and other gear. Past guests say you feel instantly at home here and rave about the sizable bedrooms of the stunning chalet.

12 guests, four bedrooms
Price: $635 per night

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Family-friendly home with a fireplace and hot tub

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Ideal for a family, this three-bedroom home is on Crescent Road, a safe and quiet residential neighborhood. You can ski within 50 feet of the front door, and it’s only a few minutes’ walk away from the Silver Star ski lift and snow gear shop. The homely Airbnb has a wood-paneled ceiling and a calming decor. You can relax by the fireplace after a day on the slopes or take in the winter views from the outdoor deck. Guests are offered a day pass to Silver Mountain Sports Club, where you can chill off the slopes with a yoga class, a swim, or steam.

Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $379 per night

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New ski-in/ski-out luxury Deer Valley condo

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This is a relatively new listing, but it’s already a top one percent listing on Airbnb. Which means it’s got a spotless record. Less than a minute from the Silver Strike ski lift, this luxury condo is one to bookmark. From this location, you can beat the crowds on a powder day, as many will be getting on the mountain at Snow Park or Silver Lake. And you can enjoy mountain views from floor-to-ceiling glass windows, which have breathtaking views from all rooms. You’ll also have access to resort-like amenities, including an outdoor spa pool, gym, ski valet, bowling alley, and après-ski. To top it off, 100 percent of the condo’s energy is generated by wind and solar — so it’s also a sustainable option.

10 guests, three bedrooms
Price: $549 per night

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Luxury 4-bedroom with a private ski tower

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This eight-bed retreat has access to a private ski tower right across the street. Yes, you read that right. So you can step out the front door, enter the tower, click into your skis, and ski on out. The Airbnb is brand new and offers some of the best alpine views in the city. The rooftop is where you’ll want to spend evenings around the fireplace or in the hot tub with a warm cider, and the modern but warm interior is well set up for a group of up to 12 guests. You’ll also have access to the ski lounge (at the base of the tower) where you can have a drink and socialize with other guests.

12 guests, four bedrooms
Price: $515 per night

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Beautifully decorated 3-bedroom condo minutes from Park City Mountain Resort

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You might find it hard to leave the couch and fireplace at this three-bedroom home. That said, all you’d need to do is roll out the front door, and you’ll literally be minutes from Park City Mountain Resort. Another top percent listing on Airbnb, this property has outstanding reviews. The only foreseeable drawback is that there’s no garage space, and parking in high season can be tricky in town. That said, there’s secure parking on Main Street, an under-ten-minute walk from the condo.

Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $550 per night

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Mordern condo with 5-star resort amenities

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Another great all-rounder with an excellent location is this three-bedroom mountain getaway directly on Park City Mountain. Ideal for families, the rental in the Kings Crown complex is in a quiet neighborhood (local noise ordinances are strictly enforced from 10 PM every night). From the front door, you can stroll to downtown to get to everything you want to do and need. Nearby, there’s the Fresh Market grocery store, Walgreens, and Whole Foods, which will deliver, so if you’re organized, you can put an order together to have a stocked fridge for arrival. The Park City Resort is also within walking distance, as are excellent restaurants, the ice skating rink, and rental shops. The modern condo has everything you need: a chef’s kitchen, elevator access, a heated patio with a fire pit and grill, heated underground parking, and resort amenities, including a ski tower, ski gear closet, and a gym.

Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $539 per night

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Charming 4-bedroom mountain home in Upper Deer Valley

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If you’d rather have a more remote setting that’s as well connected as inner-town Airbnbs, check out this beautiful mid-mountain home in Upper Deer Valley. The four-bedroom is around five minutes drive from Deer Valley’s Silver Lake and Snow Park ski lifts. You’ll likely need a vehicle to stay here, and there’s an underground parking garage for two cars. That said, there is a free public car service, High Valley Transit, that you can arrange to pick you up from the garage and take you anywhere in downtown or the Deer Valley. Resembling a Norman Rockwell painting, the charming home is surrounded by aspen groves and is perfectly set up for accommodating a group — regardless of the season. In winter, you can hop in the hot tub, and if you decide to return in summer, there’s an outdoor pool.

10 guests, four bedrooms
Price: $595 per night

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Modern light-drenched 4-bedroom steps away from the Town Lift

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For something modern that’s centrally located, check out this recently renovated four-bedroom property steps from the Quit ‘n Time ski run, the Town Lift, and Snowbu. It’s also roughly a two-block stroll away from the amenities of Main Street. Park City’s streets are beautiful in winter, adorned with lights and shop windows with festive displays, so the two-block walk will be delightful. The Airbnb has exceptional views of the surrounding mountains and Old Town, and an open-planned layout, vaulted ceilings, and lots of natural light that floods in from the large windows.

Nine guests, four bedrooms
Price: $623 per night

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Affordable 3-bedroom condo in the heart of Old Town

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This is a smidge more affordable than many of the options here. For around $350 a night, that’s not bad if split between two couples or a group. It’s also unbeatable in terms of location. The Town Lift is a couple of blocks away, as are local markets, breweries, and seasonal happenings. The condo is not as luxurious, but it’s one to bookmark for this price bracket. The living area is comfortable, with enough space for all to gather around the fireplace, and the outdoor balcony has a deluxe hot tub where you can relax after a long day.

Eight guests, three bedrooms
Price: $357 per night

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Economy and Premium Cabins on Delta Airlines Are Getting a New Look

Delta Air Lines recently revealed a major overhaul of its aircraft interiors, set to debut this fall ahead of the airline’s centennial (100-year) anniversary in 2025. The initiative aims to “enhance passenger comfort” and align with “evolving customer expectations.” According to the release, the new interiors will debut on Boeing 757s serving domestic routes this fall, then extend to Airbus A350s, used for international routes, by early 2025.

The new interiors will apply to the main cabin seats, first class, and the “Delta One” class, an enhanced business-class type seat available primarily on long-haul flights. The more luxurious updates will apply mostly to higher-class seats, but all seats in all classes will get more breathable materials, as well as memory-foam cushioning in wide-body planes. The main cabin will also get a new color scheme, among other minor aesthetic details, though there’s no mention of any efforts to increase leg room or personal space for main cabin-class travelers.

Main cabin flyers will see new seat fabrics and memory foam seat cushions on long-haul flights. Photo: Delta Airlines

Interestingly, all cabins will now have  “lighting that promotes relaxation,” which Delta goes on to explain is based on mood lighting to reflect different aspects of the flight. According to the release, the decisions were made based on customer research and studies, which suggested that certain types of lighting can impact traveler comfort. “For boarding, we’ve focused on….warm and inviting lighting that makes the cabin appear spacious and open,” quotes the release. “At mealtimes, we queue hues that feel like you’re at a candlelit dinner. As the lights dim for sleep, we borrow from the sunset and slowly remove blue light while bringing in warm amber tones which are reminiscent of a sunset glow.”

Flyers in Delta One cabins will see the nicest cabin upgrades. Photo: Delta Airlines

Delta One flyers will also see upgrades like breathable, more softer fabrics, as well as new leather headrests. Airplane restrooms are also getting a visual refresh, with a “Celestial Sky pattern” accent wall and an “Azure Blue” color scheme — the bright blue color already used in some Delta aircraft interiors.

Other airlines also announced interior enhancements in 2024

Qantas unveiled updates to economy and premium economy classes, likely to start in summer of 2025. Photo: Qantas AIrways

Japan Airways won early 2024 accolades in global airline awards for its design for new aircraft, which include enhanced audio in premium classes, lay-flat seats, and a decor scheme inspired by classic Japanese architecture and color.Several airlines, including Turkish, United, and Delta announced enhanced tech upgrades, with all three airlines promising in 2024 some version of complimentary in-flight Wi-Fi (though it may not be for all classes). United also introduced an enhanced phone app, with the functionality to automatically move you to your preferred seat, should it become available.For flyers who can afford it, Cathay Pacific introduced a new “Aria Business Suite” on Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. The new suites include doors that slide fully closed, wireless charging platforms, adjustable lighting, extended in-suite storage, and even purpose-designed in-cabin art in each suite.Qantas Airways also announced in October 2024 a roll out of new economy seats, including larger entertainment screens, Bluetooth connectivity, and mood lighting. Planes are also getting new carpets and curtains across all tiers of class, but the changes likely won’t be available until mid 2025 at the earliest. More like thisThe 5 US Airlines Most Likely to Arrive on Time

Staying Connected on a Cruise: The Cheapest, and Most Expensive, Cruise Line WiFi Packages

While going on a cruise used to be a good way to totally unplug from work and social media during your vacation, that’s not the case any longer. Besides the fact that companies like GigSky now offer cheap e-sim plans to allow you to stay connected while at sea, just about every cruise line under the sun also has reliable, fast, and affordable Wi-Fi. Although it’s bad news for those who want to disconnect but can’t resist the appeal of the World Wide Web, it’s a godsend for the remote workers who don’t have any geographical constraints. Digital nomads and the likes can now enjoy spending days, or even weeks, at sea without losing on one day of work or missing an important meeting or email. Also, just as importantly, it’s great if you want to upload your best vacation pictures to Insta in real time.

How’s the quality of the Wi-Fi on cruise ships?

While just a couple of years ago you couldn’t rely on cruise ship Wi-Fi, very recently the quality of the internet connection at sea has improved dramatically, and it’s all thanks to Starlink. Most major cruise lines, from Carnival Cruise Line to MSC, Royal Caribbean, Celebrity Cruises, Oceania, Scenic, and many more have signed up with Starlink and, therefore, now have fast and dependable Wi-Fi. That said, because not every ship on every fleet has had Starlink installed just yet, you should inquire about the internet situation before booking, especially if you’re trying to work during your cruise.

I recently came back from a seven-day exploration cruise in the Galápagos Islands with Ecoventura, and the Starlink-enabled Wi-Fi, which was included, was solid throughout, allowing for seamless texting, emailing, and video calls, despite being in an extremely remote location. Of course, my experience is anecdotal and usually, the more remote the location, the more likely the internet connection will be spotty. Just be aware that the bandwidth might have some ups and downs throughout your sailing.

From the cheapest to the most expensive Wi-Fi packages on cruisesCruise lines with some Wi-Fi included and some fee-based upgrades availableCruise lines with Wi-Fi includedFrom the cheapest to the most expensive Wi-Fi packages on cruises

Much like with drinks, on cruises, Wi-Fi is often offered in packages, with tiers ranging in speed, access, and price.

1. Carnival Cruise Line

The Social Wi-Fi Plan costs $15.30 per day, per device for access to social media websites and apps, including Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp, among others, as well as access to airline sites.The Value Wi-Fi Plan costs $19.55 per day, per device for the sites offered in the social Wi-Fi plan, as well additional browsing, and email. The Value Wi-Fi Plan has a faster connection speed than the Social Wi-Fi Plan.The Premium Wi-Fi Plan is three times faster than the other two plans and costs $21.25 per day, per device for all the sites and apps included in the Social Wi-Fi and Value Wi-Fi plans, as well as movie streaming, video chatting, and browsing. The Premium Wi-Fi Plan is also available on up to four devices for $75 per day.

Purchasing your internet package with Carnival Cruise Line prior to sailing allows you to save up to 25 percent.

2. MSC

The Browse Cruise Package costs $15.99 per day, per device and allows for browsing the web, sending and receiving emails and images, and chatting on messaging apps. The price is unavailable online.The Browse & Stream Cruise Package costs $19.99 per day, per device and allows for browsing the web, sending and receiving emails and images, chatting on messaging apps, video chatting, streaming music and videos, and posting video and live stream on social media. The price is unavailable online.

Discounts apply for multiple devices.

3. Azamara

Azamara offers three Wi-Fi packages based on time usage: $19.95 for 60 minutes, $29.95 for 24 hours, and $19.95 per day for the duration of the cruise.

4. Cunard

The Essential Internet plan costs $20 per day, per device to browse the web, email, and post on social media. If you only need this plan for $24, it’ll set you back $25.The Premium Internet plan costs $28 per day, per device to browse the web, email, post on social media, and stream music, videos, films, and shows. A 24-hour pass costs $40.

Discounts are available for multi-device plans and sailings of 50 nights or more.

5. Princess Cruises

MedallionNet Classic gives you access the internet everywhere on board to browse, text, post photos, video chat, and stream for $24.99 per day for a single-device plan, and $44.99 per day for a multi-device plan.MedallionNet Max gives you access to the same services as MedallionNet Classic, but with much faster bandwidth. MedallionNet Max is only available with the Princess Plus package ($60 per day, per person), or Princess Premier package ($90 per day, per person), both of which offer additional benefits such as beverages and specialty meals, among others.

6. Norwegian Cruise Line

The Voyage Wi-Fi Pass costs $29.99 per day, per device and allows for web browsing, emailing, and messaging.Streaming Voyage Wi-Fi Pass costs $39.99 per day, per device and allows for web browsing, emailing, messaging, and streaming music, videos, movies, and more.

7. Royal Caribbean

Royal Caribbean’s VOOM Surf + Stream Internet Package starts at $30.99 per day, per device, but the price varies depending on the itinerary and the length of the cruise. The package lets you message and video chat, browse the web, send emails and post on social media, and stream music, videos, movies, and shows. Royal Caribbean claims to have the “fastest internet at sea.”

8. Holland America

The Surf plan is only available through the ‘Have it All’ package which also includes drinks, shore excursions, and specialty dining, and starts at $55 per day, per person. The Surf plan allows for browsing the web, sending and receiving emails, chatting on messaging apps, and consulting news and sports apps.The Premium plan costs $34.99 per day, per device for browsing the web, sending and receiving emails, chatting on messaging apps, consulting news and sports apps, and making audio and video calls.The Stream plan costs $45.99 per day, per device for browsing the web, sending and receiving emails, chatting on messaging apps, consulting news and sports apps, making audio and video calls, and streaming music, videos, movies, and shows.

Discounts apply for longer sailings.

Celebrity Cruises

Basic Wi-Fi allows for browsing, emails, and messaging on certain apps.Premium Wi-Fi allows for browsing, sending and receiving emails with files attached, message and video chatting, and streaming music, videos, movies, and shows.

Prices not listed, varies by sailing.

Cruise lines with some Wi-Fi included and some fee-based upgrades available

Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Regent Seven Seas Cruises offers one complimentary log-in per stateroom. Additional devices and connection upgrades are available for purchase.

Prices not listed.

Atlas Ocean Voyages

Atlas Ocean Voyages provides each guest receives with 1 GB of data for free for one device. It can be used to chat, share, and stream content via email, YouTube, and social media apps. For those who want more, there are fee-based upgrades available.

Prices not listed.

Swan Hellenic

Silver Connect is complimentary but only allows for chat messaging on WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger, iMessage, WeChat, as well as accessing some news websites.Gold Connect costs $25 per day, per device and allows for chat messaging, browsing and sharing pictures via social networks.Platinum Connect costs $37 per day, per device and offers a faster connection for chat messaging, browsing, sharing pictures via social networks, streaming videos and music.

Silversea

Standard Wi-Fi which allows for browsing, messaging, and emailing is included for all guests.Premium Wi-Fi which allows for browsing, messaging, emailing, sharing social posts, streaming content, and making voice or video calls. Premium Wi-Fi is an upgraded service.

Price not listed.

Cruise lines with Wi-Fi included

The following cruise lines offer complimentary Starlink-enabled Wi-Fi access:

VikingVirgin VoyagesNational Geographic-Lindblad ExpeditionsAurora ExpeditionsQuark ExpeditionsEcoventuraScenic CruisesEmerald CruisesCrystal CruisesPonantOceaniaHXSeabourn More like thisTravelCruise Gratuities Can Impact the Cost of Your Trip. These Are the Cheapest and Most Expensive by Cruise Line

This New NYC Eatery Has the Authentic (and Inventive) Italian Panettone You Need This Holiday Season

New York City is in a state of transition. The hazy summer days have faded into the background, making way for crisper fall air as the metropolis and its dwellers return to the break-neck rhythm leading to the holidays. The West Village, one of New York City’s most unique and historic neighborhoods, is also shifting. In what used to be a gray garage tucked underneath an aging fitness center now sits an eatery that pays homage to Southern Italian cuisine and the opulence that shaped New York’s Gilded Age: Realmuto Alta Pasticceria.

The cafe and pastry shop is the latest venture by restaurateur Francesco Realmuto who also owns a pizzeria and a gelateria in Manhattan. Helming the exposed pastry lab in the wall-to-wall-glass space is acclaimed pastry chef Giuseppe Zito whose panettone, a bread-like Italian fruitcake that’s traditionally eaten around Christmas and New Years, has won world championships.

Photo: Aramide Tinubu

But there’s more on the menu than quick bites and grab-and-go sweets. Deborah Mariotti from Mariotti Studio spent two years collaborating with Realmuto to create a space that could seamlessly transform from a bright and airy daytime cafe into a sultry and cozy nighttime haute, with lunch and dinner options ranging from spuntino (snacks) and antipasti (appetizers) to handmade pastas for primi (first course) and rich dishes like eggplant parmesan and dry-aged ribeye for secondi (main course).

Lunch on the sunny fall day when I dined at Realmuto Alta Pasticceria began with Executive Chef Mauro Campanale’s buttery focaccia barese (focaccia from Bari) and other starters, including charred green beans called fagiolini alla brace and caponata. The caponata, a traditional Sicilian eggplant stew, would have pleased even the most apprehensive eggplant eater.

“When I start, I need an entry point,” the Bari-born Chef Campanale told Matador Network on his process. “I may try some new fruits or vegetables. The vendor comes down almost every day to let me try something. I like to go to the market in [Union Square]. Sometimes, I get some inspiration when I go out for dinner. Food is art. Every plate, every dish you see on the menu has at least five different versions.”

Photo: Aramide Tinubu

Lunch was mouthwatering, with two standouts in addition to the focaccia: the vibrant orange fluke melone peperoncino (made with raw summer flounder, chilled cantaloupe soup, and jalapeno) and a gorgeously hearty tagliatelle al ragu (a dish of perfectly al dente housemade spinach pasta with a slow-cooked meat sauce).

Of course, when seated next to the inviting pasticceria (pastry shop) and gelateria, dessert is very much on the menu. Realmuto Alta Pasticceria carries a full array of authentic gelato, including a breathtaking pistachio flavor. In the pasticceria, Chef Zito delivers everything from traditional to innovative treats. Though Chef Campanale focuses on local ingredients in his main dishes, Chef Zito uses only Italian ingredients in his desserts except for American eggs, French butter, and Madagascar vanilla. Using authentic Italian flour is particularly important because of its high protein content, which can’t be replicated elsewhere.

After a creamy cappuccino and a petite passion fruit pastry, Chef Zito opened the doors to his laboratorio di pasticceria (pastry lab) where he was hard at work designing some forthcoming treats and specialty desserts for the holiday season. Boldly colored designs lay across his workstation as he spoke about a new take on his award-winning panettone, named best in the world by the International Federation of Pastry, Gelato, and Chocolate (FIPGC).

Photo: Aramide Tinubu

Though it looks similar to American fruitcake, Italian panettone is an airy sweet bread that’s said to have originated in Milan and is a staple during the holiday season. The dome-like bread is typically flavored using candied fruits and raisins. In addition to the classic flavor, Chef Zito also offers a chocolate panettone and a pistachio version.

However, on this particular afternoon, Chef Zito let Matador Network in on his new vision for panettone: In celebration of Saint Lucy’s Day on December 13 — honoring the patron saint of Syracuse, Sicily — Chef Zito is crafting 100 limited-edition panettone cakes. Its main ingredients include special candied capers and a sweet marsala Italian-made wine. The distinctive treat promises to be unlike any panettone experienced previously.

Where to get panettone in NYC beyond Realmuto Alta Pasticceria

Photo: columbo.photog/Shutterstock

Sant Ambroeus

The very first Sant Ambroeus location opened in 1936 in Milan, the accepted birthplace of panettone. The pastry and confectionery shop now has more than a dozen locations, including several in New York City. You can find some of the chain’s limited-production imported panettone in the Manhattan storefronts or order the classic or chocolate sweet breads online.

Sant Ambroeus: Various

Santa Chiara Caffe

Owner Cristiano Rossi is not only behind Santa Chiara Caffe in Long Island City, Queens, but also the Panettone Festival held annually in the neighborhood since 2021. Specializing in traditional yet innovative fare, the cafe has been known to peddle various flavors of panettone in past years in addition to the classic, including limoncello and pistachio.

Santa Chiara Caffe: 5241 Center Blvd, Long Island City, NY 11101

Settepani

If you’re in Harlem around the holidays and craving a different take on the festive Italian sweet bread, stop by Settepani’s restaurant for a serving of the panettone French toast with berries and syrup. Settepani also has a bakery in Brooklyn that handles specialty and wholesale orders, as well as traditional panettone that’s available for order nationwide via GoldBelly.

Settepani: 196 Lenox Avenue, Harlem, NY 10026

Bruno’s

For years, Bruno’s was a go-to for panettone on Staten Island. The business has since moved to Freehold, New Jersey, but it remains a favorite for the holiday treat. At Bruno’s, you get your pick of flavors, from chocolate to pecan to fig to pumpkin, but the classic choices are the Milanese (with citron and raisins) and the Genovese (with citron, raisins, pine nuts, and anise).

Bruno’s: 196 Lenox Avenue, Harlem, NY 10026

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A Small-Ship Expedition Cruise Is the Best Way to See the Galápagos Islands in All Their Glory

Whale!” Mark shouted at breakfast. The rest of us passengers, the ship’s captain, and the naturalist guides stood up at once. We lifted the binoculars strapped around our necks and scanned the horizon from the sundeck. The Bolivar Channel is the best place to see whales around the Galápagos Islands, and eagle-eyed Mark, with his patience and determination, had spotted a splash nearby. A fin appeared and we all gasped and whooped.

“The pangas are ready. Let’s all jump in and see it from up close,” Gustavo Barba, one of the naturalist guides, said, referring to the small inflatable boats on the ship that could take us closer without disturbing the whales.

We gobbled down what was left of our delicious breakfast of humitas, fresh fruit juice, and Galápagos coffee. In less than 10 minutes, we were geared up and zooming toward the last sighting of the animal, cameras at the ready. What ensued was 30 minutes of observing a mother humpback and her calf bobbing in and out of the water, giving us the best show any of us had ever seen before 9 AM.

A mother humpback and her calf in the Bolivar Channel. Photo: Jesse Adams

This is what it’s like to take a trip with Ecoventura around the Galápagos Islands: Everything is designed to give the few guests on board the most adrenaline-filled wildlife-watching experience of their life. You want to swim with manta rays? Sure thing! Just jump off that panga and have fun. You want to spend an extra 20 minutes watching a just-born baby sea lion playing in a puddle, or looking at a giant tortoise walking by with a flower in its mouth? The crew can make time for that. You want to dive off the ship into the clear, warm waters of the Pacific and go for a swim? The captain will arrange it for you. At the end of a seven-day sailing with Ecoventura, you’ll have seen more wildlife than you can anticipate coupled with a lifetime of adventures and excitement.

What sets Ecoventura Galápagos cruises apart

There are dozens of cruise lines sailing expedition ships around the Galápagos Islands, including some of the biggest names in the industry like National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions, Celebrity Cruises, and Silversea. Ecoventura is just one small player among all of those operators, but it’s got a multitude of advantages.

Ship size

Our ship, Ecoventura’s Theory, anchored near Rabida Island. Photo: Jesse Adams

The most significant benefit of traveling with Ecoventura is the size of the ships. While the Galápagos National Park, which covers 97 percent of the islands, has capped the number of passengers for any expedition ship to 100, Ecoventura keeps things even more intimate with a maximum of 20 guests per ship. (There were only 14 of us on the trip I took in late September.) Such a low number of passengers not only makes the voyage a social experience during which it’s hard not to bond with your fellow travelers, but also a lot more practical and fun. Everyone can participate in activities at the same time without having to wait their turn, whether that’s kayaking, snorkeling, swimming, or going for a guided walk on land. It also allows for spontaneous decisions like going to look at a whale up close early in the morning, or even going for after-dinner drinks and dancing while anchored near one of the towns. Having such few passengers also makes the relationship between the crew and the travelers a lot more personal and casual. The crew, including the captain, knows your name and you know theirs, they take an interest in your life, and you quickly end up sharing jokes and anecdotes with them like you do with the rest of the passengers.

Naturalist guides

Looking for Galápagos penguins and Galápagos cormorants around Elizabeth Bay on Isabela Island. Photo: Jesse Adams

On Ecoventura ships, there are no fewer than two full-time naturalist guides on board. The guides — highly trained, multilingual locals certified by the very demanding Galápagos National Park — accompany you throughout the journey on all the activities and provide expert commentary on the history, geology, flora, fauna, and environmental challenges of the archipelago. They are the ones who know when and where to see a particular species. They point out subtle behavior and physical differences in the wildlife that you’d never spot on your own, and they keep both the animals and the travelers safe. Without a doubt, the naturalist guides make the trip, and on Ecoventura, the ratio of naturalist guide to passenger is a very comfortable one to 10, one of the highest ratios among the operators in the archipelago. The naturalists answer every question you might have, and they also do their best to find the species you’re looking for, no matter the time of day or the location. They even give quick astronomy lessons from the sundeck at night if you ask for one.

Quiet but very effective luxury

Ecoventura is one of only three cruise lines in the world with the very sought-after Relais & Chateaux label. Relais & Châteaux is a not-for-profit, selective consortium of independently owned luxury properties, and the label is a guarantee of top-notch service and excellent cuisine, all with a local focus. While travelers to the Galápagos Islands are there for the landscapes and the wildlife, they also often appreciate life’s little luxuries. That said, don’t expect an ostentatiously decorated interior, immense cabins, and over-the-top amenities – it’s quiet luxury you’re dealing with here. In other words, everything is simple, but very high-quality. The all-Ecuadorian crew is attentive and anticipates all your needs, going as far as hosing your feet clean after spending time at the beach and providing warming tea and hot chocolate after a long snorkeling session. The food is exceptionally good with local specialties served at every meal, including patacones (fried plantains), seco de pollo (chicken stew), and Ecuadorian ceviche, among others. The chef is also extremely accommodating to those with a special diet. I’m a vegetarian and I was presented with a special vegetarian menu at dinner every night, as well as a vegetarian substitute for all the proteins served.

A priority on sustainability

There are many technical and complicated things that Ecoventura, a carbon-neutral operator, is doing to reduce its impact on the fragile environment of the islands. One of those is choosing to sail ships that are designed to be light and hydrodynamic to use less fuel (and therefore emit less CO2 and NO2). But it’s the small, daily efforts on board that I noticed the most during my trip.

To reduce the amount of waste, there are no single-use products on board, including no paper napkins, no plastic water bottles, no straws, and no paper or plastic cups. The toiletries in the bathrooms are all in reusable and refillable glass containers and there is a water dispenser to refill stainless-steel water bottles. While this may seem like a small gesture, every little bit helps, especially in a remote and vulnerable location like the Galápagos Islands where waste management and disposal is a serious challenge.

Beyond the reduction of waste, it’s the effort to source local ingredients that I found most admirable. More than half of all the ingredients are sourced from the islands to not only benefit the local community, but also reduce carbon emissions linked with shipping food from the mainland, which is 600 miles away.

The itineraries available and which one to choose

Ecoventura sails two routes: Itinerary A, also known as Beaches and Bays, the southern and central route; and Itinerary B, known as Volcanic Wonders, the western and northern route. Both itineraries last seven days and start from the island of San Cristóbal, where the main airport is located. It’s possible to travel the two itineraries back to back for a 14-day comprehensive exploration of the Galápagos Islands.

Itinerary A, also known as Beaches and Bays, the southern and central route. Map: EcoventuraItinerary B, known as Volcanic Wonders, the western and northern route. Map: Ecoventura

Of the two routes, I elected to travel on Itinerary B. The choice was a difficult one, as both routes present advantages. Ultimately, it was the high likelihood of seeing penguins that made me opt for Itinerary B — and I was lucky enough to see dozens of them both on rocky shores and underwater. While they can also be spotted on itinerary A, the penguin population is a lot smaller in this part of the islands, and therefore, a little more difficult to see. Itinerary A, however, offers travelers a good chance of seeing dolphins and the Galápagos albatross, which are mostly found around Española Island.

The main difference between the two itineraries, however, is the landscape. Gustavo Barba, one of the naturalist guides working with Ecoventura, explains that because the southern and central islands are the oldest of the archipelago, the landscape is flatter and features more white-sand beaches. The northern and western islands, however, are younger and therefore offer a more volcanic and mountainous scenery.

Note that the itineraries have been created in such a way that the ship mostly sails from one island or location to the next at night so passengers can make the most of daylight hours. It’s another way that Ecoventura works to give travelers the best experience possible.

A schedule jam-packed with activities

Walking on the rocks on Santiago Island, observing sea lions and fur seals. Photo: Jesse Adams

The point of traveling to the Galápagos Islands is to see as much of the unique wildlife and landscape as possible. Ecoventura, as such, has created daily schedules that are packed with activities that allow you to spend as much time outdoors with the animals as possible.

That means that you’ll get to snorkel, hike, go on panga rides, kayak, SUP, and swim daily, and often multiple times per day. It all starts at 9 AM after breakfast and ends at around 6 PM, with a couple of hours to break for lunch and take a siesta. All the activities last a minimum of one hour and are guided by the naturalists to maximize wildlife sightings and educational opportunities. While the schedule is set, it’s not rigid and more time can be allocated to observe a particular animal or take in a view.

Seeing two Galápagos owls during our time on Genovesa Island was a highlight. Like most wildlife in the archipelago, the owls aren’t afraid of camera-toting Homo Sapiens Photo: Jesse Adams

While on Genovesa Island, we stopped to look for the Galápagos owl and found two in one location. We spent much more time observing and photographing them than was initially planned, but it ended up being the highlight of everyone’s day. The same thing happened when we hiked in Puerto Egas on the island of Santiago; we encountered a colony of sea lions, including multiple newborn pups (even one with the umbilical cord still attached). We spent a long time observing them from the required distance of six feet, paying no attention to the clock.

Fitness level and experience required

While it is imperative to be able-bodied to travel around the Galápagos Islands with Ecoventura, there’s no need to be an athlete or an outdoors expert, as long as you have all the gear needed, you’ll be fine. All the hikes are gentle, allowing everyone to participate, and the kayaking and SUPing sessions are all organized in safe locations with no current. The same goes for snorkeling. While I’m a swimmer, I had never snorkeled in deep water before this trip and took to it very easily in the calm waters. All the activities are supervised by the naturalists who make sure everyone is secure and comfortable at all times. You can also opt out of any activities you don’t wish to partake in. There’s no pressure or expectation from anyone on board.

My experience

At the end of my first full day in the Galápagos Islands with Ecoventura, a day spent hiking and snorkeling in and around Genovesa Island, I already knew this was the best trip I had ever taken in my entire life. Little did I know that every day to follow was going to be even better than the previous one, filled with more wildlife, more fun, and more excitement.

Galápagos sea lion pups and their parents are mesmerizing. You can watch them for hours without ever getting bored. Photo: Jesse Adams

Everything I had ever hoped to see, I saw up close and in a more magical way than I ever thought possible. I observed sea lion mothers peacefully nursing and cuddling their pups, marine iguanas eating algae underwater, Galápagos penguins mating, and fuzzy baby pelicans begging their parents for food. I even swam alongside sea turtles and huge manta rays, making for the most adrenaline-filled day of my life. Looking at all this thriving wildlife filled me with intense joy, but also with a deep appreciation for life on Earth. To say that I was high on life for seven straight days would be incredibly accurate – Ecoventura made it all possible, and all I want is to experience that feeling again.

How to best organize your trip

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Before traveling to the islands, you need to make your way to mainland Ecuador, whether to Quito, the capital of the country, or Guayaquil on the coast. No matter the destination, Ecoventura recommends that travelers arrive at least one day before the flights that take them to the Galápagos Islands, and offers two complimentary hotel nights for that purpose.

My partner and I arrived two nights before our departure for the islands and stayed at the comfortable and practical Wyndham Quito Airport hotel. While the hotel is about 50 minutes out of the city, we had no problem finding a safe taxi to take us into the Centro Histórico for some sightseeing the day prior to our departure to San Cristóbal. Because the flights to get to the islands are scheduled in the early morning, staying at the Wyndham Quito Airport hotel is preferable to staying in the city, especially since it has a free, five-minute shuttle to get to the airport.

Ecoventura will book your pre-cruise hotel, organize all your flights to and from the islands, as well as the national park tickets that you need to enter the islands.

Landing in San Cristóbal in the Galápagos Islands. Photo: Jesse Adams

While my partner and I opted to stay in the Quito city center upon our return from the archipelago, after spending seven days exploring a peaceful and remote location, the urban landscape and noise was a big shock to the system. If you have the time to stay a little longer in Ecuador, I would recommend a more gentle reintroduction to real life by staying at the lovely beach-side accommodation Casa Tambo in Ayampe. Ayampe is a laid-back town just three hours by private bus or cab from the Guayaquil airport. There, you can take yoga and surf classes, as well as guided whale-watching and bird-watching tours, snorkeling sessions, and more. That way, you can keep the fun going and ease into the harsh reality of not being in the Galápagos Islands a little more kindly.

How much does it cost to travel with Ecoventura

As you might expect, cruising around the Galápagos Islands with a Relais & Châteaux expedition cruise line does not come cheap. In 2024, the rate for double occupancy is $9,950 per person and will climb to $10,500 in 2025. The fare does not include flights or crew gratuities. Everything else, including beverages, Wi-Fi, and excursions, is included. Ecoventura does offer very advantageous Black Friday deals every year.

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Getting Into Action Sports Photography: Diversity, Climbing, and Landing Gigs With Nikki Smith

Utah resident Nikki Smith is known for a lot of things. She’s an accomplished action sports and outdoor photographer, with photographs published everywhere from Outside Magazine to homepages for global brands like Mountain Hardware, Black Diamond, The North Face, and more. She’s authored several trail and rock climbing guides, is a sponsored athlete or ambassador with well-known organizations and brands like Scarpa, Brooks Running, and Jeremy Jones-founded POW (Protect Our Winters). She’s also a US Army veteran, a business owner, and a partner to outdoor brands, working to design and develop more inclusive technical clothing and gear.

In 2019, she founded Open Aperture, an annual photography clinic designed to help underrepresented groups get more opportunities in front of and behind the camera in the outdoor world. She’s also a member of the LGBTQIA+ community, having come out publicly as a trans woman in 2018. The lack of representation in the outdoor industry is part of what motivated her decision to come out publicly as a trans woman, but it’s her skill as an artist, rock and ice climber, and photographer that pays the bills – and keeps her busy, traveling around the country for speaking engagements, teaching classes, working with brands, or just scouting new routes she’s hoping to include her next climbing book.

Matador Network jumped on a call with Smith to talk about her advocacy work, how she turned her photography skill into a career, why diversity matters in the outdoor industry, and how she became a world-class climber, despite being afraid of heights.

Some answers have been edited for length and clarity.

 

 

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Matador: Let’s start with a question that’s open ended on purpose: Tell me about you.

Smith: I would say I’m an artist and educator. I do photography, illustrations, graphic design, painting, all these kinds of things that fall under that. And then the educator part is I teach as much of that as possible. I’ve been a climbing guide since the late 1990s, and through guidebooks, the work that I do at events, taking people out into nature – that’s trying to share the passions that I have with everyone else.

But really, I have a lot of different jobs – I still can’t fully survive on photography alone. Climbing photography is one of the lower paying outdoor genres of photography, so a lot of us have to do additional things. I write climbing guidebooks, and pretty much constantly between guidebooks, I’m working on next editions. So I’m constantly researching, even when I’m climbing for myself. I constantly try to pick areas I didn’t know as well. I may go for a long run into a new basin in the mountains because I’m looking for new ascents, or looking up and seeing if I think ice might form in a certain place.

 

Matador: How did you get into climbing and photography, and how did you start combining the two?

Smith: I was 16 when I first started climbing. I had rappelled before and hated it – I’m afraid of heights. But I got invited to climb with some other teens and I didn’t want to be the one to say no. As soon as I tied in and climbed the route, everything went quiet. My mind stopped – stopped having to deal with everything I dealt with growing up, like not knowing who I was, or the fact that my father died when I was 14. There was this sense of freedom. It was just so powerful and meaningful. I had done all these other outdoorsy activities, but nothing hit me like that.

My father was an amateur photographer, and I used to do a lot of crafts with my mom – cross-stitching and painting and whatnot. But they were worried about me doing too many ‘feminine things,’ so I started spending time with my dad. So I always had a camera around.

During college, I started trying to do more with climbing photography, but I cared more about actually climbing. But I was bouldering one day and midway up a problem, I heard a super loud ‘pop:’ I blew two joints on both fingers, so I couldn’t climb for months. But I wanted to keep going out with my friends, so I decided to really focus on the photography side.

Magazine covers with photography shot by Smith. Photo: Nikki Smith

Matador: And then how did you turn those passions into a career?

Smith: I started submitting mostly to magazines at first. It seemed like in order to get stuff into the companies, you had to have a name from a magazine. And while I was in college, I was working for a climbing gym, teaching and working the front desk. And then I started guiding and building my connections, and I got a job at a climbing company. And then they started using my photography sometimes in the catalog, and eventually, I became the photographer for all the products and action photos. I was also doing freelance work at the same time, and quickly learned from working at the company what the photo needs really are [for promotional photos] and how to meet that need for a brand.

 

 

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Matador: What was the catalyst for coming out publicly as transgender?

Smith: I knew I was already sponsored before that. I was known in the climbing world, I’d written five guidebooks and photos used by climbing brands and magazines out there. I knew I either had to leave climbing, or it was going to be visible. And part of it too was I’d never encountered anyone that was trans. I didn’t know that many queer climbers, and if I wanted any chance of changing that or finding them, I had to be visible. How that visibility came out wasn’t necessarily part of the plan. There were a lot of things that were kind of put on me and changed my role from what I thought I would do.

Climbing – I don’t think it is particularly better at representation. I hear over and over that climbing is one of the most accepting sports out there, and I think its made a lot of gains recently, and it’s one of the few sports we’ve been able to see much earlier, at least with outdoor ice climbing, that women are on the same level as men. We’re starting to see that gap shortening in other sports, but it’s not as apparent as climbing. And that’s helped it progress a little more quickly – and access to gyms in large population centers, that’s all helped.

Matador: Ah, so were you worried it could hurt your sponsorships or future work/business?

Smith: Early on, for sure, and now potentially, too. Since the issues with Bud Light and the trans influencer last year, and all the anti-DEI stuff, a lot of folks from marginalized backgrounds and the outdoors and other areas, a lot of folks have not been as visible.

 

 

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Matador: Tell us about Open Aperture. What is it, and why is it important?

Smith: I was being asked at a lot of festivals and in general to teach climbing photography, but it was typically just a one-day course. I wanted to do something bigger, but I wanted to do something to create a mentorship for folks I didn’t see out there talking photos. So I went to Mountain Hardwear and pitched this idea, and we were able to work out the Open Aperture program.

There are six scholarships each year, and we’re not just reaching out to well-established photographers, but open to a wide range of skill levels. We typically have two that are really great photographers who haven’t done climbing photography or don’t know how to move up and down a fixed line or get the angles. It’s different from how you shoot other sports to really tell the story. Then we have some that are really new, but you can see in their work this innate artistic ability.

We do classroom and field workshops, and we go over framing and storytelling and creativity, and we bring in an editor from a magazine from a particular sport so they can have a class on how to put together an editorial submission. What are brands looking for in a photography submission? How to do a pitch deck.

And like anything in the outdoors, it’s also a marketing expense for Mountain Hardware, but we don’t want the participants to think Mountain Hardwear owns their photos or anything. If we use their photos in promoting the program, that’s part of being in the program, but if it’s used for a specific product, we make sure they get paid. It really helps their portfolio and for some of them, Mountain Hardware is their first client.

And then there’s ongoing mentorship for the first three months or so, but as folks need things, they’re reaching out. Typically, each cohort has maintained contact with one another.

(Editor’s note: Applications for the April 2025 Open Aperture clinic close November 8, 2024)

Shooting at a recent Open Aperture clinic. Photo: Nikki Smith

Matador: Why do we need more diversity in front of and behind the camera?

Smith: When you look at the make up of outdoor recreation, more than 30 percent of participants in outdoor recreation are not white. There’s a massive increase for climbing – it’s almost 50-50 women-vs-men in gym climbing. Outside, it’s more 60/40, but that number continues to grow. The number of queer folks within the outdoors continues to grow, and so we’re seeing this major visible shift in participation, but we’re not seeing outdoor imagery and our websites and leadership of companies and athlete teams representing everyone out there.

For me, what I saw over and over was that there were issues – mistranslations of what it was I said because I was never interviewed with anyone with trans identities, and they would go into it with preconceived ideas of what stories should be. And I see brands send out requests saying “we need more photos of diversity,” but then I’d look at the list [of photographers], and it was the same list of straight white guys. And I think it’s the same with writing and videography and all these things.

Like, with Red Bull Rampage (editor’s note: an extreme freeride mountain bike event), they’re bringing in photographers who specialize in that type of photography. You wouldn’t bring an NYC fashion photographer – you want someone who specializes in that. So what I’m trying to do is get more folks out there who have some speciality, who have connections.

We still see over and over it’s the same handful of people in the outdoor industry from marginalized backgrounds who get written about over and over. And writing – it can be a lot easier for interviews when someone from an [underrepresented] community might already know a lot of things that I can spend half an interview trying to describe.

An essay penned by Smith on the importance of representation. Photo: Nikki Smith

Matador: You live in Utah and do a lot of ice climbing. How has climate change impacted your work?

Smith: I’ve been documenting ice climbing with photography and guidebooks since 2003, and I have photos of what’s going on with particular climbs where I return year after year after year. And I’ve seen a drastic difference.

One climb, the Great White Icicle above Salt Lake, first done in 1962 – it’s a very accessible Water/Ice 3, and until 2014 or 2015, that was always reliable. Often you would be able to start around Thanksgiving and be able to go until the end of March. But in 2014, it had like one week, and since then, it’s on and off. But it’s much more serious and dangerous if you climb it now because it doesn’t form consistently. The average temperature of the water coming down is just a little too hot.

I’m in Utah, where our industry’s slogan is “the greatest snow on Earth.” And it’s frustrating – I know people whose entire careers depend on snow and ice and healthy forests. And we have entire climbs that might never come back.

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Archaeologists Just Found a Massive Ancient Mayan City in Mexico

Thanks to high-tech radar, modeling, and scanning technology that can peer through layers of dirt, rock, and jungle cover, it’s easy to think that there’s little left to be discovered in the world of archaeology. But the discover of an ancient Mayan city roughly the same size as the US’s National Mall in Washington, DC, shows that we haven’t found all there is to find quite yet.

The recent discovery of an ancient Mayan city, dubbed “Valeriana,” was published in the October 2024 issue of the Journal of Antiquity, a peer-reviewed archaeology journal. It was just one of many impressive findings found buried beneath dense jungle in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula and could unveil new insights into the ancient Mayan civilization. Researchers think Valeriana, so named for a nearby natural lagoon, dates from the Mayan Classic Period (250 to 1000 CE). Researchers found more than 6,600 still-buried structures and sites of note in the 50 square miles around Valeriana, making the size of the ancient community only slightly smaller than the entirety of modern-day Washington, DC.

The ancient Mayan civilization thrived in Mexico’s Yucután Peninsula. Photo: mikaelT/Shutterstock

The city of Valeriana alone covers more than 120 acres, including plazas, pyramid-type structures, ball courts, and a complex of stone columns. The city’s layout suggests to researchers that it was a hub of social, ceremonial, and possibly commercial activities.  The architecture also leads researchers to think Valeriana was only a small part of a larger larger society of interconnected settlements throughout the Yucatán Peninsula, as the site’s architectural features align with other Mayan cities from the Classic Period. It was likely also a site of important ceremonial practices, as the site’s tallest pyramid is close to 50 feet.

The new site sits in the jungle, not extremely far from the well-known site of Calakmul, shown here. Photo: Alfredo Matus/Shutterstock

Valeriana and the surrounding discoveries were found using LiDAR technology, which sends laser pulses from a device mounted on a plane or drone, scanning the ground below. It measures how long it takes for the light to bounce back, revealing shapes below the ground, even beneath dense forest canopies. It’s how other famous ruins have been found, including the famous Ciudad Blanca — the “cursed” city made famous by the novel The Lost City of the Monkey God.

However, while Ciudad Blanca was found by researchers actively searching for a lost city, Valeriana was not. LiDAR mapping is very expensive, especially to execute over large sections of land by plane. That makes it prohibitively expensive for most archeological projects — but not for companies in fields like technology or land development. Fortunately for lead researchers from Tulane University in Louisiana and the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia in Mexico City, the section of land in question in Mexico’s state of Campeche had already been mapped by a private company. That company made the data available to the research team, which was able to import it into advanced modeling programs to generate computer maps of the site. That allowed them to see beneath the ground, revealing the human-made structures underneath.

A LiDAR map of Valeriana (upper right). Ring-shaped and darker red marks on the scans indicate human-made materials. Photo: Journal of Antiquity/Luke Auld-Thomas et al

Despite the relatively recent end of the ancient Mayan civilizations (many modern-day Maya still live in Mexico and other parts of Central America) in archaeological terms, modern historians have yet to understand the full scale of their complex and advanced civilization. Ancient Mayan civilizations probably collapsed around 1000 CE, due to factors like internal conflict, drought, and other environmental pressures.

Currently, there are no official plans to excavate Valeriana. Archaeologists are still analyzing the site with labor- and time-intensive computer modeling. While further fieldwork and excavations could follow, such projects typically require substantial planning, funding, and logistical support, as working in dense jungle conditions creates additional complexities ranging from disease to deterioration to flooding and erosion issues.

Other Mayan sites near Valeriana

Campeche was a crucial part of the ancient Maya civilization, especially during the Classic Period. Archaeological research from known sites in the state show that the Maya engaged in complex urban planning, developed advanced agricultural techniques, and built sophisticated water-management systems. The three sites below are all at least partially unearthed and open to the public for travelers who want to learn more about Mexico’s ancient Mayan culture.
Calakmul

Photo: Iren Key/Shutterstock

Deep within the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve in Campeche is Calakmul, one of the most powerful Mayan cities during the Classic Period. It’s known for its massive pyramids, extensive stone monuments (called stelae), and remnants of royal homes. The most famous photos are akin to the one above, showing the multi-level pyramid rising out of lush green jungle. It’s one of the largest (and usually least crowded) ancient Mayan sites, making it a perfect destination for exploring untouched ruins. To visit, you’ll need to drive deep into the jungle (home to monkeys, jaguars, and various bird species). Because it’s far from tourist cities and a bit hard to find, it’s best to visit on an organized tour with a company like Ka’an Expeditions.

Edzná

Photo: AventuraSur.photo/Shutterstock

Edzná was a significant ceremonial center, famous for its impressive five-level pyramid: the Edificio de los Cinco Pisos (“Building of the Five Stories,”) with panoramic views of the surrounding site. Edzná is also an outstanding example of Mayan engineering, with a complex water management system that includes canals and reservoirs. The site is well-preserved and less crowded than more famous ruins like Chichen Itza, making it an appealing stop for history enthusiasts. It’s about an hour by car from Campeche City, and you can visit on your own, take a guided tour, or usually, hire a guide on site.

Becán

Photo: David Esser/Shutterstuck

Becán is an ancient city researchers think was active between 600 and 1200 CE. It has a defensive moat (something not common on Mayan cities) and structures that suggest it was used both as a place to live, and for ceremonial purposes. The site itself is quite large, though only a small portion of it has been excavated to date. It’s surrounded by jungle, but still easier to reach than Calakmul. Becán is about 10 miles from the town of Xpujil, which is about two hours by car from Chetumal.

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