Sudhir Ahluwalia's Blog, page 6

Invasive skin care

The most popular invasive skin care treatment methods include:

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) treatmentNeedle mesotherapyPDO (polydioxanone) lifting threadsBotulinum toxin type A injectionCarboxytherapy

Qualified individuals perform these treatments. The descriptions of these treatments are for information and based on desk research. I have included a summary of the most cited research on each procedure to help you decide what will work best for you. These descriptions should in no way be construed as recommendations.

Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Treatment

Blood comprises plasma, red blood cells, white blood cells, and blood clotting elements called thrombocytes of blood platelets. PRP treatment entails injecting plasma enriched with platelets into the skin. The invasive skin procedure triggers tissue reconstruction at the cellular level. The treatment claims to restore skin firmness and elasticity, and it is used to treat acne scars and accelerate hair growth.

Modest improvement in facial skin appearance, texture, and lines was observed. Fine lines and pigmentation below the eyes may also benefit. The injections are regarded to be safe and modestly beneficial for aging skin. However, the persistence of these effects requires further trials (Maisel-Campbell, A.L. et al. 2020; Yuksel, E.P. et al. 2014).

A randomized clinical trial studied the impact of PRP injections on the visual appearance, texture, and color of photodamaged facial skin. The fine and coarse texture of the skin improved significantly with a single treatment of PRP. The improvements observed were nominal. (Alam, M., et al 2018). The treatment was evaluated for efficacy and safety in human facial rejuvenation. Collagen levels increased. PRP application could be considered an effective and safe procedure (Abuaf et al., et al. 2016; Kim, D.H. et al. 2011). A single treatment was well tolerated (Elnehrawy et al., 2017).

Needle Mesotherapy

The therapy is performed with the help of a special device or traditionally with a needle. Various preparations containing hyaluronic acid or combined with vitamins, inorganic salts, glycerin, or trace elements matched to the patient’s need are injected into a previously anesthetized skin. The treatment claims to improve blood circulation and color, nourish and hydrate the skin, level existing wrinkles, prevent skin aging and sagging on the abdomen, thighs, and arms, and help contour the face. Medspas recommend four to six treatments annually to make the skin look brighter and give it a lifting effect.

Mesotherapy, developed in the mid-1950s by Dr. Michel Pistor in France to manage pain and vascular disorders, has gained popularity recently. New substances like platelet-rich plasma, peptides, growth factors, and collagens are used. The treatment was used to treat localized pain and other clinical conditions. The therapy is widely used to eliminate disfiguring fat Sivagnanam, G. (2010).

However, the data to evaluate the technique’s safety are lacking, and scientific researchers consider its use debatable (Konda, D et al., 2013). No significant impact on skin rejuvenation has been noted, and multivitamins and hyaluronic acid solution facial mesotherapy do not appear to benefit significantly (Amin S. P. et al. 2006).

Therefore, emphasis is being laid on the usefulness of informed consent until scientific evidence on the mechanism of action and application is arrived at. (Mammucari, M., et al 2020). Additional clinical and experimental studies are necessary to establish the safety and efficacy of this treatment. Vedamurthy, M. (2007), Herreros, F, O.C et al 2011).

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures

 

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Toners

Skin toners cleanse, balance pH, hydrate, tighten pores, and prepare the skin to absorb other products, such as moisturizers and serums. They also soothe and refresh the skin, even out tone, and have an anti-aging effect.

Toners can be applied in the morning and at night after cleansing the face. Hydrating toners are good for dry and mature skin. Toners with salicylic acid could be appropriate for skin with hyperpigmentation or irritation. Toners with alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids are preferred for acne-prone and dull skin. You can also find toners containing lactic acid or papaya extract.

The global skin toner market is quite small. In 2023, it was valued at around $1.3 billion and is growing at a CAGR of around 5.2 percent.

Who Should Use Face Toner? Everyone! However, if you have oily skin, are prone to acne, or wear makeup, you may especially benefit from it. Toners go the extra mile to clean and close pores. Some common toner ingredients include salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycerin, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, rose water, and witch hazel.

Let me share details on one of the common ingredients in toners and other skin care products:

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is found in the skin, preventing it from drying out. The eye’s vitreous body contains large amounts of HA, which helps maintain the eyeball’s shape. Knee joint fluid also has HA, giving it a cushion and preventing bone-to-bone friction.

HA is a natural, gooey, slippery substance that retains moisture. It is capable of binding over one thousand times its weight in water.

Many moisturizing creams, lotions, ointments, and serums contain hyaluronic acid (HA) (Juncan, A M et al., 2021). HA makes skin flexible, helps it stretch and flex, and reduces wrinkles and lines. It also stimulates collagen production, improves skin hydration, and rejuvenates the skin. (Bravo, B et al., 2022) The amount of HA in the skin decreases with age.

Hyaluronic acid is found in animals, such as humans, cows, fish, and chickens. It is not found in plants, fungi, or insects. Citrus fruits like oranges, grapes, and berries contain naringenin, a flavonoid with antioxidant properties that prevent the breakdown of hyaluronic acid.

The most common HA production method is bio-fermentation using bacteria and yeast. The resulting product is purified and dehydrated to form a powder. HA is in great demand in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and medical devices. The global production estimate for 2022 was around 2,209.72 metric tons, and it is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 7.5 percent to 7.7 percent in the coming years.

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures

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Sun care product

According to Straits Research, the global market for sunscreens was valued at $11.66 billion in 2022 and is expected to grow to $17.8 billion by 2031. It is the fastest-growing sun care product segment among skincare products.

Sun care products are available in gel, lotion, cream, oil, spray, and other formats. They contain ingredients that can absorb, reflect, or scatter ultraviolet rays. While the science of Ultraviolet rays’ harmful impact on the skin is a relatively recent discovery, humans have been using natural products to protect their skin from the sun since ancient times.

The ancient Egyptians applied rice bran extract, jasmine, and lupine to their skin to prevent excessive skin darkening. The Indians have continued to use sandalwood paste, turmeric, and sesame oil on their skin for thousands of years. The practice has endured to this day. These herbs have been found to have a cooling effect on the skin and possess anti-microbial properties.

The Chinese used rice and herb pastes for sun protection, while the North American Indians used an extract from Tsuga canadensis—a pine—to soothe sunburns. Greek athletes used olive oil and fine sand as sunblock.

The first modern sun care product is attributed to L’Oreal. In 1944, a Florida pharmacist invented a product called Coppertone. In the early 1970s, the US FDA regulated suncare products’ labeling, testing, and rating. This helped standardize suncare products and permitted them to be labeled and claim therapeutic benefits.

Impact of UV rays

Anyone who has been out in the sun for extended periods has experienced reddening of the skin or sunburns. UV rays stimulate melanin production, which causes the skin to tan. The outermost layers of the skin are noted to thicken to prevent UV rays from penetrating the deeper layers.

People with fairer skin are more prone to sunburn than people with darker skin. Skin type affects one’s ability to adapt to UV exposure. Chronic exposure can cause the skin cells to degenerate. Freckles, diffuse brown pigmentation, an acceleration of skin aging, wrinkles, a reduction in skin elasticity, and dry and coarse skin development are seen.

Bright light makes us squint but does not protect us against the dangers of UV radiation from strong ground reflections from sand, water, and snow. People can experience reactions to delicate eye tissues like the eyeball and eyelids, causing them to inflame. The conditions can be very painful, but they are reversible. Extreme exposure can lead to snow blindness.

Sun exposure is a risk factor for cataract development. UV radiation is said to suppress the immune system and increase the incidence of skin cancers. It can further enhance the risk of viral, bacterial, parasitic, or fungal infections. A high level of UV radiation can reduce the effectiveness of vaccines. (WHO)

To protect the skin from UV radiation, the US FDA recommends limiting time in the sun as far as possible between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when UV radiation is highest. Those of us with field jobs used clothing that kept exposed areas covered. We used towels to cover the back part of the head between a sun hat and shirt. Sunshades on the eyes were compulsory.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

All sunscreens must be tested to measure the amount of ultraviolet radiation exposure it takes to cause sunburn when using a sunscreen product compared to when not using sunscreen. Here are some simple facts:

UV radiation consists of UVA and UVB rays. SPF values indicate the level of sunburn protection provided by a sunscreen product. Sunscreens have a wide range of SPF values, primarily indicating sunscreen’s UVB protection. SPF values can reach up to 50.

Choose a broad-spectrum product with an SPF of at least 15 for optimal protection. SPF values are not related to the time of solar exposure but the amount of exposure. A stronger middle-of-the-day sun will have a higher SPF value than the morning or early evening hours…..

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures.

 

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Emollients

Emollients and humectants moisturize the skin—however, the two work differently. Emollients soothe and relieve dry or irritated skin by forming a film on the skin’s surface. They also restore the skin barrier function, helping prevent irritants, allergens, and bacteria from entering the skin. Examples of emollients include jojoba, almond and squalane oils, shea butter, and ceramides.

Humectants draw water from the air into the skin, replenishing its natural moisture and making it feel softer, smoother, and supple. This class of products works best in humid environments. They are often paired with occlusives to prevent water from evaporating. A good skincare routine includes humectants first and emollients last.

The choice of moisturizer depends on the skin type and concerns. If the skin is oily, a water-based moisturizer may work best. Dry and itchy skin may require a richer cream or ointment.

These products reduce redness, blotchiness, or any signs of skin distress. Moisturizing body washes, for instance, soothe skin texture and relieve redness or itching. Many ingredients have a skin-soothing action. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize sensory perceptions of sensitive skin.

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were studied. The ingredients reviewed included niacinamide, Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and derivatives of Laminaria ochroleuca. Over half of the products analyzed used ingredients that reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier. Scientific evidence supported the efficacy and mechanisms of action of the most used active ingredients. (Ferreira, M S. et al., 2022)

Flavonoids found in natural compounds have been shown to benefit human skin from environmental stress. Epstein, H A (2010)

Aloe vera and hyaluronic acid are popular ingredients in skin moisturizers. Other ingredients that soothe the skin include almond oil, vitamin E, allantoin, bisabolol (Chamomile), honey, panthenol, cottonseed oil, peptides, colloidal oatmeal, vitamin C, and zinc oxide.

Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil comes from crushed beans of a drought-resistant shrub native to the semi-arid regions of the Southwest US and northern Mexico. The plant’s botanical name is Simmondsia chinensis. It is now cultivated extensively for its oil in Israel, Argentina, Peru, Australia, Mexico, the US, and other parts of the world. Israel is the largest producer and distributor of jojoba oil in the world.

Jojoba oil is a lubricant that can be catalytically converted into biodiesel. It is also used in the cosmetic industry. The global jojoba oil market was 19413.4 tons in 2023. IMARC Group expects it to climb to 32631.7 tons by 2032.

Jojoba oil is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is a liquid wax that contains esters that mimic the skin’s natural oils. Jojoba oil is an emollient and texture enhancer that helps with hydration and gives the skin a smooth and soft feel. It repairs the skin’s lipid barrier, reduces water loss from the skin, and controls sebum production. (Lin T K et al., 2017)

It is among the top-ranked oils due to its wax, which constitutes about 98% (mainly wax esters, a few free fatty acids, alcohols, and hydrocarbons). It also contains sterols, vitamins, flavonoids, phenolic, and cyanogenic compounds. (Gad H A et al., 2021)

The oil penetrates the skin’s pores and moisturizes from within. It is beneficial to dry, flaky, or rough skin. It helps heal dry, cracked, and irritated skin and boosts wound healing by encouraging collagen synthesis. (Ranzato, E et al., 2011). This improves skin elasticity. The oil helps soothe sunburns and reduces the chances of peeling.

The oil’s antioxidants help soften fine lines, boosting skin complexion by preventing oil oxidation and slowing down signs of aging. They also help prevent acne caused by clogged pores.

Jojoba oil is extensively used in lipsticks, lip gloss, eye creams, sunscreens, shampoos, and conditioners. It can also be used as a makeup remover. It is applied with a cotton pad. The oil contains natural Vitamin E and helps maintain the skin’s pH balance.

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures.

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Fragrance world – orange blossoms

Unlike ancient times when a fragrance almost always contained a single herb mixed with a carrier oil, today, the fragrance world of natural perfumes uses various plant-based ingredients to create a unique scent representing the product made by a brand. Typical ingredients in a natural perfume will include plant extracts that capture the plant’s scent. Examples may consist of orange blossom, roses, lavender, or jasmine. These normally form the top note of the perfume, which a consumer experiences immediately.

These ingredients are mixed with highly concentrated oil-soluble plant extracts, which are used for their rich, long-lasting scents. These will form the middle notes, and examples may include absolutes of jasmine or rose.

The base note that adds to the depth and longevity of the fragrance often contains balsams and resins like benzoin, myrrh, and frankincense. These are our popular Biblical favorites referred to in the Bible verses.

Some perfume makers add fresh, zesty scents from citrus oils like bergamot, lemon, and orange. Others add earthy and spicy notes like patchouli, cinnamon, clove, or vanilla to warm and sweeten the fragrance. Amber is sometimes added to give a warm, woody, and slightly sweet scent.

Orange blossom

Citrus-derived oils, extracts, juices, powders, waxes, and water are widely used as cosmetic ingredients. Popular citrus plants include lemon, Citrus aurantifolia, grapefruit, orange, bergamot orange, and bitter orange. The peel of the fruit, flowers, and even the leaves are used to extract aromatic essential oils.

Citrus aurantifolia’s orange blossoms are white and used as a top note in perfumes. The floral scent has bitter top notes of green citrus. The entire bitter orange tree is used in perfume making. The peel is used to make essential oil, the leaves petitgrain oil, and the flowers are used to make neroli oil and orange blossom absolute.

The blossoms are hand-picked in the spring when they are at their peak. The petals are distilled with water vapor to extract the essential oil known as neroli. It takes a thousand pounds of flowers to make a pound of essential oil. The oil is used in perfumes, cosmetics, cooking, flavoring cakes, jams, and other food products. The Neroli perfume starts sour but becomes sweet and floral.

According to Grandview Research, the global citrus market was $4 billion. It is projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.1 percent and touch $6 billion by 2032. Citrus essential oils are used in aromatherapy, cleaning products for their natural antimicrobial and bactericidal properties, flavoring agents, and personal care and beauty products. Citrus flavonoids have anti-cancer and anti-inflammation properties. (Manthey, J. A, et al. 2001)

Citrus use dates to ancient Rome and Greece. Theophrastus said that the fruit of the citron tree, when placed among clothes, kept them from being eaten by moths. It was also used as a breath freshener, and the inner part of the fruit was boiled to form a sauce to give it a fresh taste. (Arias, B A, et al., 2005)

Citrus essential oils can photosensitize the skin. Avoid using them in skin care products if you spend time in direct sunlight after application. The fragrance blends floral, woody, herbal, and spicy notes.

Learn more about fragrances and top, middle, and base notes in Holy Beauty, available on Amazon. It is the second book in the Connecting Science to the Bible series.

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Floral fragrances

Floral fragrances are one of the most popular and broadest families of fragrances. They can range from light and delicate to more complex and intense. Many of these are used as top notes in fragrances. Floral notes can also be used as heart notes, which are the main body of the fragrance.

Top notes usually make up about twenty to forty percent of the blend, middle notes -fifty to seventy-five percent, and base notes make up the balance five to ten percent. Middle notes emerge after the top notes have evaporated and establish the perfume’s character. They can include floral, fruity, or spicy scents.

Rose, jasmine, lily of valley, sweet pea, lilac, gardenia, magnolia, freesia, honeysuckle, lavender, orange blossom, tuberose, ylang-ylang, patchouli, frangipani, violet, carnations, cloves, wisteria, privet flowers, and neroli are some of the popular flowers used to in floral fragrances.

The top notes are freesia, honeysuckle, lavender, lilac, orange blossom, and sweet pea. Middle notes fragrances, which form the perfume’s heart, come from carnations, gardenia, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, rose, tuberose, violet, wisteria, and ylang-ylang.

Cloves, frangipani, patchouli, and privet flowers give the fragrance lingering scents, which are also known as base notes.

The global floral fragrance industry is expected to grow to $25 billion by 2032, up from $15 billion in 2023. The global floral extract market is expected to grow to $4,832.8 million by 2034, up from $2,818.9 million in 2023. (Future Markets Insights)

Freesia

Freesia is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the Iridaceae family. Some say it represents innocence and friendship, while others regard it as a symbol of thoughtfulness, perseverance, and high spirits.

Christian Fredrich Ecklon first described the Freesia genus in 1866. The genus was named after Fredrich Freese, a German botanist and medical practitioner from 1795 to 1876. The plant is native to the Southern African region. It is a garden plant that prefers mild climates. It is a popular indoor potted plant and is used as cut flowers. Freesia flowers have a delicate and sweet fragrance, which is used in perfumes, colognes, and other personal care products. There are multiple species of Freesia flowering plants.

Freesia is often used as a top note in perfumes such as Dior J’adore, a classic scent that uses this note to give it a light, floral touch. Other examples include Gucci Flora and Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Forever and Ever. In the last-mentioned example, jasmine is the middle note tincture of rose in the base, and freesia is the top note.

Freesia also balances other fragrances and pairs well with jasmine, rose, amber, and musk.

To learn more about fragrances, check out Holy Beauty on Amazon.

 

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Skincare facts- moisturizers

Continuing on skincare facts: Moisturizers are skin care products that break the dry skin cycle and help maintain skin smoothness. In some cases, dryness may be linked to an impaired barrier function. Once applied to the skin, the ingredients can stay on the surface and be absorbed into the skin. These can be metabolized or disappear from the surface by evaporation. Moisturizers can be sloughed off in contact with other materials. (Loden, M. 2003)

Moisturizers make the skin smooth by helping retain water in the outer skin and maintaining normal skin pH. They are a cosmetic product class that bridges the gap between medicine and consumer products. Moisturizers render the skin beautiful and healthy. They are used on normal and dry skin and are effective in skin that appears tight, stinging, itchy, and tingling.

I did find references to the use of moisturizing lotion in the Bible. Proverbs 27:9-19 says, “Just as lotions and fragrances give sensual delight, a sweet friendship refreshes the soul.” Based on the review of the verses of the Bible, we learn that several ingredients were used to moisturize and treat skin conditions.

Frankincense is a popular fragrant gum derived from several species of the Boswellia genus. It is used on both young and mature skin. Frankincense balances oil and dry skin and improves skin tone and condition.

Myrrh is another popular aromatic gum made from trees belonging to the Commiphora genus. These trees were extensively available throughout the Middle East, from Africa to Oman and even as far east as India. Myrrh moisturizes and helps tone, heal, and rejuvenate the skin. Queen Esther received cosmetic treatment with myrrh before marrying King Xerxes.

“Before a young woman’s turn came to go into King Xerxes, she had to complete twelve months of beauty treatments prescribed for the women, six months with oil of myrrh and six with perfumes and cosmetics” Esther 2:12

Almond oil is another popular moisturizer whose history dates to the Bible. Almonds are rich in Vitamin E, which is good for dry skin and keeps it nourished and wrinkle-free. Cypress, cedar, and sycamore trees are extensively found in Southern Europe and the Middle East.

Multiple verses from the Bible refer to the use of these trees in medicine and skin care. Oil was extracted from the bark and needles of these trees. The oils have antimicrobial and medicinal properties. Today, oil from these plants is popular in skin moisturizing products.

Moisturizers have three core classes of ingredients – humectants, emollients, and occlusives.

Humectants are substances that bind and hold water in the upper skin layer. They are good for oily skin and skin prone to acne and other conditions. This class of moisturizing ingredients does not leave a film on the skin that can clog the pores. Humectants attract and hold water and keep the skin moist. Some humectants are naturally found in the body, including hyaluronic acid and sodium PCA.

Emollients are unperfumed substances that soften and soothe the skin and treat dry, flaky skin. Cosmetic products like lotions, lipsticks, and other products contain emollients. Emollients prevent skin splits and chipping off. These compounds occupy the spaces in the skin with greasy substances, making the skin smoother and gentler.

Occlusives create a physical barrier on the skin, keeping it hydrated and moist. They help when the skin is dry, flaky, and itchy. Petroleum jelly is an example of an occlusive. Beeswax is another example. It thickens oil into balm and soothes skin cracks and fissures. Other common occlusives are shea butter, cocoa butter, ceramides, squalane, argan, olive, and jojoba oils.

You can dive deep into the world of cosmetics and learn more in my book – Holy Beauty

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Fragrance world

In 3000 BC, Queen Hatshepsut of Egypt sent expeditions to Africa for myrrh, frankincense, and herbs. In that era, aromatic resins and scented botanicals were used in religious ceremonies, burials, and personal adornment. Herbs and spices were among the leading imports from India to the Mediterranean region powers of Egypt, Greece, and Rome.

In ancient times, logistics was a challenge, but a vibrant international trade existed despite it. Intrepid merchants from India undertook the journey to Mesopotamia in small boats laden with herbs and spices. Deep sea voyaging was too dangerous, so boats hugged the coastline. The onward journey to Palestine and Lebanon was done by land. Donkeys and then camels were the preferred modes of transport. The supply chain extended from Alexandria to Egypt and Rome.

With the discovery of the monsoon winds, travelers and merchants began relatively quickly crossing the Indian Ocean, reaching the shores of Arabia. Camels brought goods to the thriving empires of the Middle East and Southern Europe.

Perfumes and fragrances were the preserve of the rich, powerful, and mighty—kings and queens. They and the nobility were the primary consumers of these expensive herbs. Myrrh, frankincense, calamus, onycha, saffron, cedar, and sandalwood were a few of the most popular fragrances and incense. These aromatic resins and scented botanicals were used in religious ceremonies, burial preparations, and personal adornment.

Nefertem (an Egyptian God) was appointed the ‘Lord of Perfume.’ Aromatic woods, fruits, and even local flowers were used as fragrances. The Indians, Chinese, and Ancient Egyptians pioneered using perfume, herbs, and spices for medicinal purposes. Incenses were burnt in temples, mansions, and palaces to perfume and for their health-giving properties.

Fragrances and herbs were expanded to the general populace in Ancient China and India. The Bible has several references to perfumes and fragrances. Most people are familiar with the verse describing the magi’s visit, bringing gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh on the birth of Jesus.

Eccelsiasticus 24:13-17, Revelation 5:8, Song of Songs 4:14, and many other verses have references to cassia, myrrh, galbanum, onycha, styrax, aloes, sweet cane, spikenard, gum tragacanth, balm, saffron, and cinnamon.

Fragrances and herbs were used as defenses against deadly diseases like Bubonic plague and other infections. Doctors would fill their bird-like masks with oils, herbs, and spices and wear them like ancient PPEs. Alchemists began conjuring secret formulas containing ingredients imported from Asia.

Chemists took over and began producing contemporary notes such as cardamom, clove, cocoa, and vanilla. Italy, Spain, Paris, and France emerged as the center of fragrance and perfume.

Manufacturers of fragrances, scented powder, and perfumed gloves also contributed to the history of perfume. They developed their trade and took advantage of novel floral ingredients such as carnation, lavender, rose, and jasmine, to name just a few. Gradually, the perfume industry began targeting middle-class women. Perfumery was still regarded as an art and trade of luxury goods. Chemical synthesis triggered new processes and unique fragrance blends. The industry grew, and brands emerged.

Synthetic fragrance compounds were discovered in the nineteenth century, revolutionizing perfumery and creating new scents. A rich tapestry of scents that reflected the tastes of various classes and groups emerged, and this is how the fragrance world evolved over the millennia.

Read more on the fragrance world in Holy Beauty: https://amzn.to/40h1CcX

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Skin care facts – surfactants

Cleanser skincare products are more than just a way to remove dirt and makeup. They are outcomes of scientific innovation and contain surfactants and cleansing agents. Surfactants may damage protein structures and solubilize lipids.

Soaps are the oldest surfactants and are quite aggressive. Harsh surfactants in cleansers can damage skin proteins and lipids, leading to tightness, dryness, barrier damage, irrigation, and even itch after the wash.

Synthetic detergents and surfactant types are anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and non-ionic.

Cleansers should minimize surfactant damage by depositing and delivering beneficial agents such as occlusives, skin lipids, and humectants under wash conditions to improve skin hydration. Cleansers are available in creams, foams, oils, balms, micellar waters, and wipes. They contain multiple ingredients, including carrier oils, used as a base for other products. They contain:

Exfoliants – chemical and physicalHydrating ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides, and hyaluronic acidVitamins and anti-aging ingredients like retinol, a vitamin A derivative that stimulates collagen production in the skin.

We have cleansers that are attracted to water or oil. The former are called hydrophilic, and the latter are called lipophilic.

Surfactants that interact minimally with both skin lipids and proteins are especially mild. Cleansers with close to normal or acidic pH of around 5.5 are less damaging to the skin. Hydrating ingredients replenish the skin’s lipids during the wash period. (Ananthapadmanabhan, K P. et al., 2004)

Let us examine the ingredients used in surfactants.

Anionic ingredients

Surfactants are used in cleansers, emulsifiers, stabilizers, and industrial chemicals. When they dissolve in water, they lower the interfacial tension, which helps them clean. Some of the popular ionic surfactants used in skin cleansers include:

Sodium C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonate is one of the mildest surfactants. It is poorly absorbed into the skin and is regarded as one of the safest and most environmentally friendly ingredients used in hair care products and sometimes in skincare and cosmetics.

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is also mild and is used in hair care products, shaving creams, and cleansers for babies or sensitive skin. It produces a great lather and has great foaming properties.

Used as a cleansing agent in hair care products and sometimes in skincare and cosmetics.

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and Benzalkonium chloride are the two prominent surfactants used in the market.

Some popular anionic surfactants used in skin cleansers, body wash, and other associated products include:

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a popular cleansing agent in many products, including facial cleansers, shampoos, and body washes. It is produced from coconut, palm kernel, or petroleum. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) has good cleansing power but can irritate the skin and eyes. It is a foaming agent that traps oil and dirt from the skin and hair, which can be rinsed away with water. The chemical is generally safe but can sometimes cause allergies. (Bondi, C A. et al., 2015). It is best to use moisturizers after using cleansers. (De Paepe, K. et al., 2002)

Several other ionic ingredients are used in skin cleansers. These include sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, disodium/sodium cocoyl glutamate, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Anionic surfactants are often combined with non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants to reduce their irritancy potential. Biosurfactants, surface-active molecules derived from natural sources, are another option that can be as effective as sulfates but are gentler on the skin and environmentally friendly.

Nonionic ingredients

These ingredients are well suited for use on the face because they are nontoxic to the eye and milder than anionic and cationic surfactants. The commonly used nonionic surfactants in skin cleansers are Poloxamer 188, Pluronic F 68, Declyglucoside, and alkyl ethers or polyethylene glycol. These ingredients are more appropriate for wound care.

These surfactants are more biocompatible than other types. They effectively remove oils due to their low foaming and penetrative wetting abilities. These ingredients act as emulsifiers and foaming agents; they are stable and maintain a pH up to the physiological pH of 7.35 to 7.45, which is ideal for biological processes, including blood oxygenation.

Surfactants are used in many products besides cleansers, including shampoos, toothpaste, body washes, and cosmetics. Prolonged use of strong or harsh surfactants should be avoided because they can permanently alter the cell structure of the skin surface.

Poloxamer 188, for instance, is a synthetic copolymer molecule used in facial cleansers and other skincare products. It helps water mix with oil and dirt on the skin, allowing it to be rinsed away. It is a foam booster or stabilizer that helps create stable products, prevents the growth of microorganisms, and extends the shelf life of products. The ingredients can keep makeup from caking and the skin from drying.

Cationic ingredients

These harsh surfactants are commonly used in household products rather than skin cleansers. They can damage the skin, especially if the skin barrier is already damaged. However, they make good conditioners, particularly in hair care products.

Amphoteric ingredients

These are less irritating to the skin and eyes and are commonly used in gentle cleansers for sensitive skin, baby products, and facial cleansers. They are also used in hair shampoos, conditioners, liquid soaps, shower gels, and creams. Cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate are some of the more popular ingredients.

You can use the information to check the ingredients list on your cleanser product and pick the one that works best for you.

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Cleansing the skin

Cleansing the skin is the primary and first step in skincare.

In prehistoric times, people removed dirt from their skin with water. Even at that early stage of human development, people understood from experience that cleaning dirt was needed. Maybe they took cues from animals visiting water bodies to cool or clean the dirt from their skin.

The concept of cleanliness has since evolved. We find documented references to cleaning in the Bible. Psalm 51:7 says, “Cleanse me with hyssop, and I will be clean; wash me, and I will be whiter than snow.” Even though most of the verses focus on spiritual cleaning, the mention of Hyssop probably indicates that the concept of cleaning had evolved by that time and extended beyond and included cleaning the mind and the spirit.

Our forefathers during Biblical times understood the value of keeping the body clean. Scientific studies have shown that the essential oil from Hyssop has anti-microbial properties. (Kizil. S et al., 2010)

Cleansing was practiced even in the early days of human existence for hygiene, religion, appearance, and vanity. It was also used to prevent illness and disease. Cleaning and washing are integral to most Hindu rituals. Like in the Bible, cleaning emphasizes both the spiritual and temporal. There are extensive references from ancient times to using herbs and other potions to heal the body from disease.

Cleaning extended to fragrance. Fragrant herbs like frankincense and myrrh were used to mask the odors of animal sacrifices in the First Ancient Jewish temple. Holy Anointing Oil, which contains cinnamon, cassia, and calamus, was used to anoint the Tabernacle and the priest in both the Jewish and Christian religions.

Priests in Ancient India used fragrant herbs to purify the area around sacred fires. Cleaning and washing the body before prayer was insisted upon. The area around sacred fires was kept fragrant with sandalwood and other herbs. Incense continues to be used in temples of all faiths.

Cleansers relax the mind and body. They improve and maintain skin health and appearance. Over 4000 years ago, the Hittites of Asia Minor cleaned their

hands with ash from the soapwort plant suspended in water.

Soapworts are flowering plants native to Asia and Europe. They belong to the Caryophyllaceae family and are rich in saponins, extensively used as biosurfactants in soaps and other industrial applications.

Saponins possess anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, and related properties. (Goral I et al., 2020) This chemical group is extensively used in detergents, textiles, paints, and cosmetics. The Hittites may not have understood the science behind these plants, but they found cleaning with soapworts good for their health.

The Sumerians of Ur began to produce alkali solutions for washing (Draelos Z D, 2000). Soaps contain alkali. The first modern soap preparation can be traced back to 600 BCE when the Phoenicians used saponified goat fat and water to clean.

Over time, the chemical industry began to thrive during the Industrial Revolution period. People found switching from natural products to synthetic chemicals in medicine and other cleaning products cheaper. Most skin cleansing products now begin using synthetic detergents.

This trend reversed as we realized natural ingredients were better for our health. Today, cleaners extensively use natural products. The market for these products is huge and rising. According to Fortune Business Insights, the global facial cleanser

market is expected to reach $23.45 billion in 2024 and grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.55% between 2024 and 2032.

There are many types of cleansers, but cream, clay, foaming, micellar, powder, and balm cleansers are today’s most popular. Cream cleaners are good for dry skin, and clay cleansers, as the name suggests, contain clay as a main ingredient. Clay helps remove impurities from the skin.

Foaming cleansers remove dirt and makeup without overdrying the skin. Micellar water cleansers are light and have a water-like texture. They contain tiny oil molecules to remove dirt and makeup and do not need to be rinsed off.

Powder cleansers are sold as powder. Mix them with a small amount of water to create a paste-like consistency before use. Balm cleansers, like oil cleansers, are ideal for double cleansing. Double cleansing removes makeup with a balm or oil cleanser, followed by a milk, cream, or gel cleanser to cleanse the skin thoroughly.

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