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Body and hand wash

The concept of body and hand wash has been with us for millennia and has an interesting history. The emphasis on washing the body goes back to the Bible and earlier. John 13:10 mentions Jesus saying, “Those who have had a bath need only to wash their feet; their whole body is clean.”

Ancient people cleansed their bodies with various plants, such as date palms, pinecones, and tamarisk. These plants contain ingredients like modern-day soap: an alkali, an oil, and an abrasive. Clay was also used to clean the body. Ebers’ papyrus, dated 1500 BC, describes combining animal and vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a soap-like material.

Soaps are solid and have a higher pH than skin, which can strip the skin of natural oils and lead to irritation. Body washes and shower gels contain more fragrance than soaps. Soaps have been used since the third millennium BC, while body washes were invented in the 1800s.

The body wash is a derivative of liquid soap. It offers a hydrating, spa-like experience and cleans the skin of dirt, oil, makeup, and sweat. It is made with natural and synthetic ingredients, including moisturizers and essential oils. Body wash is often formulated to be pH-balanced and suitable for sensitive skin, and it differs from bar soaps, which contain harsh surfactants that can be drying for the skin.

Body washes are closer to the skin’s natural pH range and include emollients and other hydrating ingredients. They can address dryness, clogged pores, and skin flaking. Body wash ingredients are mainly water and surfactants, which are cleansing agents. These are blended with thickening agents, emulsifiers, conditioners, fragrances, essential oils, humectants, and preservatives.

Ingredients such as shea butter, aloe vera extract, glycerin, coconut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, and avocado oil moisturize the skin. Honey, too, could be added to seal moisture into the skin and for its antibacterial properties.

There are several types of body wash. Exfoliating beads are used on all skin types and contain exfoliating ingredients that help remove dead skin from the surface, making the skin smoother and softer. Mousse-type body washes provide a luxurious lather, and milk is good for dry skin. Washes are available in foam, gel, and lotion formats.

Surfactants bind with proteins and remove lipids from the skin surface, leading to irritation, allergic reactions, and impaired skin barrier function. Three products, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), hydrolyzed wheat protein (HWP), and polyvinylpyrrolidone/hydrolyzed wheat protein cross-polymer (PVP/HWP), were studied for their safety of use and ability to reduce irritant potential. The PVP/HWP cross-polymer in a body wash formula was seen to have the strongest ability to reduce skin irrigation potential. (Bujak, T, et al., 2015)

Body washes with Moringa oleifera leaf extract, which contains flavonoid and phenolic compounds, reduces skin irritation, and improves product safety. (Niziol-Lukaszewska, Z, et al., 2020). Saponins are a class of active substances found in plants. They are used extensively in the cosmetic industry. Bodywash containing saponin-containing plants (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Viola tricolor, and Solanum dulcamara) decreased the product’s skin irritation potential. (Niziol-Lukaszewska, Z, et al., 2018)

Hand wash

The four common types of handwash are liquid soap, antibacterial soap, antiseptic hand rub, and alcohol-based rub. The antiseptic and alcohol-based hand rub kills germs on the hands without water.

Hand washing cleans the hands with soap or handwash to remove viruses and bacteria. This class of products contains surfactants that break down oils and dirt on the skin. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate are the most common surfactants in hand washes. Some people avoid SLS because it can irritate the skin.

Cosurfactants are often added to handwashes to enhance surfactant foaming and cleaning abilities. Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is an example of a cosurfactant used in hand washing. It is a combination of coconut fatty acids and propylene glycol. Glycerin is added to give lather while washing, and preservatives like sodium benzoate extend the shelf life of liquid soap.

Cleansers contain thickeners like sodium chloride. Petroleum-derived dyes and methylisothiazolinone are used as preservatives to inhibit bacteria growth.

Hand wash soap is thinner and less foamy. It removes dirt, grease, and germs, but some may irritate larger body areas. The body wash is milder and thicker and rinses off easily.

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures.

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Nail care

Nail care products can be classified into enamels (polishes), hardeners, moisturizers, conditioners, and prostheses.

Nail Polish

Nail enamels contain the following categories of ingredients:

1. Film formers that ensure the nail polish is dried hard and shiny. Nitrocellulose is a common film former.

2. Plasticizers provide flexibility and adhesion. Common plasticizers are trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate, dibutyl phthalate, camphor, and triphenyl phosphate.

3. Resins improve adhesion, hardening, and gloss. The common ingredients are tosylamide or formaldehyde resin, tosylamide/epoxy resin, formalin, methylene glycol, and toluene sulfonamide/formaldehyde resin.

4. Solvents keep nail polish in liquid form. Common solvents are ethyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol, butyl acetate, and toluene.

5. Common pigments that give color include iron oxides, titanium oxides, chromium oxide greens, and carmine.

6. Suspending agents keep ingredients evenly distributed. Stearalkonium hectorite and bentonite are the ingredients.

7. UV stabilizers prevent colors from fading. Benzophenone-1 is a common UV stabilizer.

Film formers

It is a chemical in nail enamel that creates a smooth surface and binds the other components of the nail polish together. Nitrocellulose, a liquid mixed with ground cotton fibers, is the main film-forming agent in nail enamel.

Cellulose acetates- cellulose acetate butyrate (CAB) and cellulose acetate propionate (CAP) are used in different viscosities and solubilities.

Cellulose esters are nontoxic, do not yellow, and have good clarity and stability. Films formed from cellulose esters have fast solvent release and are easily pigmented.

Nitrocellulose, a liquid polymer mixed with ground cotton fibers, is the main film-forming agent in nail enamel. However, some nail polishes use other film-forming agents, including phenylated silicone resin, which is a popular ingredient in nail care products.

Plasticizers

Plasticizers provide flexibility and adhesion. Common plasticizers are trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate, dibutyl phthalate, camphor, and triphenyl phosphate. These compounds differ in their uses, properties, and potential health effects.

Trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate improves nail polish’s flexibility and durability. It is also a film-forming agent that gives nail polish a smooth, long-lasting finish. Dibutyl phthalate is a man-made chemical that keeps many products, including nail polish, soft.

Triphenyl phosphate is a plasticizer for cellulose acetate and nitrocellulose and a fire-retarding agent. It is a hazardous substance that can damage the liver, kidney, and nervous systems, cause skin allergies, and cause endocrine and reproductive toxicity.

Natural Products

There are several natural product-based plasticizers. Vegetable oils from soybean, linseed, castor, and sunflower are subjected to chemical changes, which are technically called epoxidization, to make them low in toxicity and migration.

Fatty acid esters (FAEs) are also natural-based plasticizers. They are synthesized by dehydrating fatty acids. They have a conditioning effect and are added to cosmetics to dissolve harmful active ingredients and UV absorbers. These compounds are derived from corn, plant oils, starch, cellulose, etc.

Natural-origin carbonates can be used as nail polish plasticizers without changing the polish’s cosmetic properties. Calcium carbonate is commonly used as a filler, and organic carbonates derived from glycerol are also used.

Zein, the natural yellow-colored substance extracted from corn, is also used as a plasticizer. Some nail polish brands use plant-based ingredients, such as sugar cane, potato, corn, and manioc.

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Freesia and Honeysuckle fragrances

Freesia and honeysuckle fragrances are some of the most popular and broadest families of fragrances. Floral fragrances can range from light and delicate to more complex and intense. Many of these are used as top notes in fragrances. Floral notes can also be used as heart notes, which are the main body of the fragrance. They can range from light and delicate to more complex and intense. Many of these are used as top notes in fragrances. Floral notes can also be used as heart notes, which are the main body of the fragrance.

Top notes usually make up about twenty to forty percent of the blend, middle notes -fifty to seventy-five percent, and base notes make up the balance five to ten percent. Middle notes emerge after the top notes have evaporated and establish the perfume’s character. They can include floral, fruity, or spicy scents. Here is a brief description of two floral fragrances.

Freesia

Freesia is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the Iridaceae family. Some say it represents innocence and friendship, while others regard it as a symbol of thoughtfulness, perseverance, and high spirits.

Christian Fredrich Ecklon first described the Freesia genus in 1866. The genus was named after Fredrich Freese, a German botanist and medical practitioner from 1795 to 1876. The plant is native to the Southern African region. It is a garden plant that prefers mild climates. It is a popular indoor potted plant and is used as cut flowers. Freesia flowers have a delicate and sweet fragrance used in perfumes, colognes, and other personal care products. Multiple species of Freesia flowering plants are used.

Freesia is often used as a top note in perfumes such as Dior J’adore, a classic scent that uses this note to give it a light, floral touch. Other examples include Gucci Flora and Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Forever and Ever. In the last-mentioned example, jasmine is the middle note tincture of rose in the base, and freesia is the top note.

Freesia also balances other fragrances and pairs well with jasmine, rose, amber, and musk.

Honeysuckle

These are ornamental shrubs and climbers belonging to the family Caprifoliaceae. The genus of this group of plants is Lonicera. They are native to temperate zones. The flower extract fragrance is used in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, serums, room sprays, and other cosmetic products.

The fragrance oils aldehyde and cassis molecules (Cassis note is derived from blackcurrants and is often used to add brightness to fruity and floral blends) are often used as top notes. Honeysuckle is a heart note in Jo Malone’s Honeysuckle and Davana cologne. Davana is the top note, and moss is the base note in this perfume. Honeysuckle has a sweet floral scent that can be uplifting and refreshing.

The fragrance blends well with jasmine, citrus, vanilla, aniseed, and other florals, such as elderflower and rose. Botanically, honeysuckle was first recorded in 1548 by William Turner. Honeysuckle is mentioned in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream.

The herb is used in Traditional Chinese medicine, where it is said to possess antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe the skin.

Both freesia and honeysuckle fragrances have applications in aromatherapy.

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Mergers and Acquisitions – Success-failure analysis

Mergers and Acquisitions - Success-failure analysis

In this article, I am focusing on mergers and acquisitions—success-failure analysis reasons. Mergers and Acquisitions are important vehicles for generating synergy and corporate growth. (Hossain M A et al, 2021) As M&A and corporate finance managers, we know that many fail. AT&T, Quaker Oats, Disney, Sony, Compaq, and General Electric are some well-reported examples.

In the run-up to a merger and acquisition, energy levels are intense. Yet, afterward, planning and post-merger activities become weak and ineffective, leading to failure. Several reasons are attributed to failure. It includes poor strategic concepts, personality problems at the top, cultural differences, poor employee morale, incompatible information systems, etc. Therefore, post-merger integration must be tracked closely to reduce the failure rate. (Adams C et al., 2000)

Research in finance has shown that many M&A initiatives fail in terms of the expected financial outcome. Myers, MD (2008) attributes failure to cultural problems and a lack of operative integration. These can relate to issues with Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) systems integrations.

It is important to balance the management of hard and soft key success factors, combining the economic logic of corporate performance and human capital through an integrated approach to mergers and acquisitions. Bertoncelj A. et al., 2007) mention five hard success factors.

Professional target search and due diligenceA realistic assessment of synergiesThe right mix of financial sourcesA detailed post-acquisition integration plan is prepared in the pre-deal phase.Speedy implementation

Another study (Hoang T V N et al., 2008) has listed ten critical success factors for M&A projects. These are:

Complete and clear objectives, goals, and scope of the projectClient consultation and acceptanceProject manager and project team’s competence and commitmentCommunication, information sharing, and exchangeProject plan developmentM&A advisory firm’s resource planningTime management and secrecyPrice evaluation and financing schemeRisk management

The literature also notes five other soft success factors that elaborate on causes of mergers and acquisitions – success-failure analysis. These include a new ‘combined’ organizational culture, a competent management team, innovative employees, efficient and consistent communication, and a creative business environment. Both hard and soft success factors are essential to increasing the success rate of corporate combinations. (Bertoncelj A et al. 2007).

Synergy creation

Most people in the M&A advisory business know that acquiring firms create little or no value because they cannot create synergy, pay too high a premium, select inappropriate targets, or have ineffective integration processes, among other things. Careful target selection and effectively implemented acquisitions can achieve synergy and create value. Targets with complementary capabilities to those held by the acquiring firm provide the greatest opportunity for synergy creation.

Acquisitions that provide new knowledge to the acquiring firm can enhance the firm’s competitive position and create value for the acquirer. Knowledge gained from acquisitions can enhance innovation when the target firm has complementary science and technology to that held in the acquiring firm. Cross-border acquisitions present significant opportunities but provide more complex challenges for achieving synergy and creating value. The problem lies in executives frequently having trouble admitting failure and divesting acquisitions. (Hitt, M. A et al, 2012)

Next steps

Therefore, deal makers and investment bankers need to invest time into building a post-deal integration team that can hand-hold the new entity and place it on a growth path. The integration team is always a temporary and short-term fix to be superseded by a regular management team.

References:

Adams, C., & Neely, A. (2000). The performance prism to boost M&A success. Measuring business excellence, 4(3), 19–23.

Bertoncelj, A., & Kovač, D. (2007). An integrated approach for a higher success rate in mergers and acquisitions. Zbornik radova Ekonomskog fakulteta u Rijeci, časopis za ekonomsku teoriju i praksu-Proceedings of Rijeka Faculty of Economics, Journal of Economics and Business, 25(1), 167–188.

Myers, M. D. (2008). Integration of different ERP systems: the case of mergers and acquisitions. PACIS 2008 Proceedings, 65.

Hoang, T. V. N., & Lapumnuaypon, K. (2008). Critical success factors in merger & acquisition projects: A study from the perspectives of advisory firms.

Hitt, M. A., King, D. R., Krishnan, H., Makri, M., Schijven, M., Shimizu, K., & Zhu, H. (2012). They are creating value through mergers and acquisitions: Challenges and opportunities.

Hossain, M. S. (2021). Merger & Acquisitions (M&As) as an important strategic vehicle in business: Thematic areas, research avenues & possible suggestions. Journal of Economics and Business, 116, 106004.

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Anti-aging and skin brighteners

Anti-aging and skin brighteners contain active ingredients that help restore a youthful appearance and delay and repair skin damage. These substances include cell stimulators, estrogen-type anti-aging agents, free radical scavengers, sunscreens, skin exfoliating, strengthening, and tightening agents. Vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants are other compounds with anti-aging properties.

Phytoestrogens

This ingredient class is best for mature women, especially menopausal women. Most phytoestrogens are of plant origin. Plants most probably synthesize these compounds as defense mechanisms against herbivore predation, directly affecting herbivore fertility.

The most important and well-known compound isoflavones, such as genistein and daidzein. Other compounds include lignans, stilbenes, coumestans, coumarins, dihydrochalcones, and triterpenoids. These compounds are some examples of anti-aging and skin-brighteners.

Isoflavones

Aging and a decline in estrogen levels are associated with aging in women. Aging causes the epidermis to thin, skin moisture to diminish, and fine wrinkles to develop. Isoflavones bind to estrogen receptors to improve skin changes. (Irrera, N., et al., 2017) The group of compounds was found to provide effective protection against the skin’s ultraviolet (UV) photodamage. (Lin, J Y et al., 2008)

Genistein and daidzenin

This class of ingredients is extracted from plants of the Leguminosae family, also known as the pea family. Pea-like pods with bipinnate leaf patterns characterize the family of these plants. Common sources of genistein and daidzenin are Glycine max (common name soybean), Pueraria candollei, Sophora japonica, and Trifoium pretense. These compounds are also produced from oatmeal, wheat bran, and corn flour.

Soybeans are cultivated in the US, Brazil, Argentina, China, and India. The herb is a major protein and oil source in many foods, including soy milk, tofu, soy sauce, fermented bean paste, natto, and tempeh. Defatted soybean meal is a cheap source of protein for animal feeds and prepackaged meals. Bean oil has many industrial applications.

Pueraria candollei is a medicinal plant widely used in Thailand. The Chinese pharmacopeia mentions it for its medicinal properties. The isoflavones in the tubers slow the aging process and improve skin condition. (Wang S et al., 2020)

Styphnolobium japonicum and Sophora japonica are species with the same common name: the Japanese pagoda tree. The plants are mentioned in Japanese, Chinese, and Korean medicine literature, and their medicinal properties have been studied. Sophora japonica is also mentioned in the European pharmacopeia. Its flowers and fruits are used in medicine and cosmetic products.

Sophora japonica is claimed to soothe irritated skin, even skin tone, and reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also said to inhibit melanin production and strengthen the skin barrier. The plant is used in various products such as face blush, eye and brow liner, lip balm, and body art. Extracts from the plant’s flowers are used in cleansing oil, face cleansers, and foams.

Genistein and daidzein are used in cosmetics and personal care products as skin conditioning agents and anti-aging products. Their primary functions are to protect the skin, act as antioxidants, and condition the skin and hair. Genistein helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. It protects the skin from sun damage, soothes it, and helps heal wounds.

The European Union consumer safety regulator has declared these compounds safe for cosmetic products at concentrations up to 0.007%. These isoflavones can be efficaciously administered using cosmetic skincare products. (Minghetti, P et al., 2006) Their antiphotoaging effects have been validated. (Wei, H et al., 2003)

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Natural Moisturizing Factors Agents (NMFs)

Certain ingredients in the outer layer of the skin naturally maintain skin moisture content. These substances are called Natural Moisturizing Factors Agents (NMFs). NMFs contain amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), urea, lactate, and salts. The removal or reduction of NMFs leads to dryness of the skin.

Source: semanticscholar.org

Dry skin is a common condition. It is most common during cold winters and becomes more pronounced with age. Moisturizers are typically used to relieve dry skin. As we have seen earlier, three ingredients in moisturizers are used to prevent the emergence of dry skin symptoms: emollients that soften and smooth the skin, occlusives that provide a barrier that sits on the skin surface, preventing loss of skin moisture, and humectants that bind and hold water.

Hydrated skin is elastic, protecting the skin. Enzymes that help retain skin moisture enable the skin to function normally, preventing flaking. A hydrated skin keeps the skin barrier functioning optimally.

The Natural Moisturizing Factors Agents (NMFs) are composed of the following:

Chemical Composition of NMFComponentsPercentageFree amino acids40.0Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid12.0Lactates12.0Sugars, inorganic acids, peptides, and other unidentified materials8.5Urea7.0Chloride6.0Sodium5.0Potassium4.0Ammonia: uric acid, glucosamines, creatinine1.5Calcium1.5Magnesium1.5Citrate, formate0.5Phosphate0.5

Source: Joseph Fowler, 2012

The Natural Moisturizing Factors Agents (NMFs) are packed within the dead outermost skin cells of keratin filaments. They are highly efficient humectants, attracting and binding water from the atmosphere even in low relative humidity conditions of 50 percent.

Hydrated NMF helps maintain skin elasticity, keeping it healthy and supple and preventing it from cracking or flaking from mechanical stress. It also balances the osmotic pressure and prevents excessive water influx and loss.

Routine soap washing, exposure to UV light, bathing, and aging cause NMF levels to drop. Aging also dramatically reduces the skin’s amino acid content. Studies have shown a direct correlation between skin hydration and amino acid content. While the outer skin layer may be biologically dead, it is biochemically active. NMF products are breakdown products of the filaggrin protein found in the lower layers of the skin.

Humidity influences the formation of NMF from filaggrin. In humid environments, such as those artificially created with occlusives, NMF formation occurs almost at the outermost surface. It has been shown that occlusive patches applied to the skin can completely prevent filaggrin degradation. NMF formation is also affected by environmental factors, like exposure to UV radiation or skin decline with age. In these conditions, the skin barrier function also declines.

Replacing or replenishing NMF in the skin through the external application of moisturizers containing NMF is effective in treating dry skin. Skincare product manufacturers began including urea in moisturizing creams as far back as 1943. Lactate was also added as an ingredient.

Lactic acid has been shown to stimulate the synthesis of ceramides in the skin. PCA is also now an active ingredient in skincare products. The application of moisturizers with NMF constituents on dry skin conditions has been clinically tested and noted to be effective. (Schleusener J et al.,2021)

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Skin barrier repair agents

Skin barrier repair agents are particularly beneficial for older adults and people who want to give their skin a nice, well-toned, healthy look.

The layer of dead skin cells with binding lipids forms the skin’s natural barrier, preventing moisture loss from underlying tissues. The skin barrier also protects the body from harmful pollutants entering the body.

Exposure to the sun, dry or humid environments, weather, allergens, pollutants, irritants, harsh soaps, chemicals, over-exfoliating, over-washing, poor diet, lack of sleep, mental or physical stress, aging, medical conditions, and genetic factors can damage the skin barrier.

Skin barrier repair agents include niacinamide, lanolin, glycerin, plant oils such as jojoba, coconut, almond, argan, corn, borage, safflower, and rosehip oil, and moisturizers containing fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, allantoin, oat beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid, ethyl linoleate, chia seed oil, and phospholipids. These compounds help restore and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, improving hydration and preventing moisture loss.

Most cosmetic products contain skin barrier repair agents. Before buying a cosmetic product, you should check the ingredients. The skin barrier has four layers: physical, chemical, microbiologic, and immunologic. The outermost layer of dead skin cells forms a tight barrier that isolates internal tissues from the external environment. The lipids and acids secreted by the epidermis and the microflora help maintain skin moisture and pH. These properties inhibit bacterial pathogens.

The skin microbiome comprises bacteria, fungi, and viruses that interact with the host to maintain the skin barrier. The immune cells act as watchdogs, protecting the body against pathogens. This skin ecosystem is, for the most part, harmless. Factors that determine the skin microbiota include the density of hair follicles and glands, age, and sex, as well as environmental factors. The skin microbiome constituents vary between individuals and different sites on the skin. Genetic and environmental influences play a major role in defining an individual’s skin microbiome. The immune response of the skin microbiome is varied and complex. (Grace, E, A. et al., 2011; Schommer, N. N. et al., 2013; Kong, H H. (2011)

Given the complexity and variability of the skin microbiome, it is best to test a product for its suitability and appropriateness for the individual before use. This will enable the individual to choose a moisturizer, exfoliant, cleanser, sunscreen, and even fragrance.

These ingredients are combined in different formulations to create skincare products that cleanse, treat, hydrate, protect, and rejuvenate the skin. Depending on individual skin concerns, products may contain a mix of ingredients from multiple categories.

Herbal and plant-based ingredients are highly popular in skincare due to their natural origin and wide range of skin benefits. Many of these ingredients have been used for centuries in traditional medicine and have gained significant attention in modern skincare formulations for their healing, soothing, and nourishing properties.

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Hair care

Hair care cosmetics can help restore hair cuticle damage and prevent breakage.

Shampoos

In ancient Egypt, people washed their hair with water and animal fats. Greeks and Romans made lye soap from fats and ashes and used it for washing. In India, herbs and their extracts were used. These included soapberries, gooseberry, hibiscus, acacia (shikakai), and Albizzia amara (arappu). These were boiled together to create a thick paste that cleansed and nourished hair. In Europe, ingredients from elm bark, willow root, red root, and goat milk tea were used to wash hair.

Shampoos clean the scalp and hair and prevent hair shaft damage. They can contain ingredients to treat scalp diseases like dermatitis, alopecia, and psoriasis. Each hair type has different needs. There are various hair shampoos, such as color-protecting shampoos, hydrating shampoos, clarifying shampoos, dry shampoos, strengthening shampoos, sulfate-free shampoos, and anti-frizz shampoos.

Shampoos contain ten to thirty ingredients, including surfactants, conditioning agents, foam builders, viscosity modifiers, sequestering agents, clarifying agents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, and perfumes.

Cleansing activity depends on the type and quantity of surfactants utilized, which are modulated depending on the requirements of the individual hair type. The alkaline pH increases friction between the fibers, leading to cuticle damage and fiber breakage—shampoos with a lower pH cause less frizzing. (Dias, M F R G., et al, 2014)

Surfactants

Surfactants reduce the surface tension between water and dirt, allowing dirt to be removed from hair and skin. Most modern shampoos, based on alkyl sulfates, effectively clean hair. Many shampoos also contain foam booster chemicals such as cocamide monoethanolamide and cocamide propylbetaine.

Foaming properties drive consumer preference even though they are not linked to the cleansing power of the product. Mildness to the skin and eyes is another key feature that shampoos need to deliver to consumers. Cornwell, P A (2018)

There are three types of surfactants: anionic, cationic, and amphoteric.

Anionic surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate, are the primary cleansing agents in shampoo. These are known for their foaming and cleansing abilities but can be harsh on the hair and skin.

Cationic surfactants are used in hair conditioners, while amphoteric surfactants help reduce a shampoo’s irritancy while increasing its active contents and lather quality. These are mild shampoos preferred for babies.

Lauryl glucoside is a plant-based surfactant derived from coconut oil. It creates a thick, creamy foam without chemicals like sulfates. Decyl glucoside is also naturally derived and used in shampoos, body washes, cleansers, and liquid soaps. The mild, non-irritating surfactant disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is known for its foaming properties.

When choosing surfactants for shampoo, consider factors such as hair type, formulation, environmental impact, and regulatory requirements.

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Eye cosmetics

Eye cosmetics help protect the delicate skin over the eyelid. The skin over the eyelid is the thinnest on the body, measuring less than one mm. Eyelids are the only external skin layer without subcutaneous flat. The eyelid protects the eye from germs and the external environment.

Eyelashes are a unique type of hair that lasts longer than hair anywhere else on the body. The upper eyelid eyelashes have twice the number of hairs compared to the lower eyelids. They catch dust and other matter, keeping them off the eye’s surface. The eyelashes also help keep moisture close to the eye’s surface. They are very sensitive to touch and blink as a protective reflex.

Eyebrows convey emotions like surprise, happiness, and anger. Eyelashes and eyebrows are the primary defense mechanism against airborne particles. Eyebrows channel moisture, such as sweat and rain, away from the eyes, keeping vision clear.

The earliest archaeological evidence of the use of cosmetics dates to around 4000 BC in Mesopotamia, Egypt, and India. In this period, men and women painted kohl around their eyes to make them look larger and protect them from the evil eye. This practice of using kohl to protect against the sun, wind, and sand has endured in India today.

However, it is important to note that traditional kohl contains significant lead levels that harm the eye (Tiffany-Castiglioni E et al. 2012). Most modern eyeliners do not contain lead or carbon.

Egypt and Mesopotamia are in the region where the Bible was written. The practice of using cosmetics for the eyes would have extended throughout the region. The importance of eyes is expressed in Matthew 13:16: “But blessed are your eyes, because they see, and your ears because they hear.” Moreover, Proverbs 20:12 states, “The hearing ear and the seeing eye, the LORD has made them both.”

Given the importance of eyes and their role in beauty management, several eye cosmetics are now available. These include eyeliner, eyebrow pencil, eyebrow gel, eyebrow powder, eye primer, mascara, eyeshadow, eye glitter, eye gloss, eyelash dyes, artificial eyelashes, shadow base, kohl, and kajal.

Most eye cosmetics are designed with safety in mind. They contain preservatives to prevent infection and are usually fragrance-free to minimize the risk of irritation. Hypoallergenic products, which contain fewer ingredients, are particularly suitable for patients with sensitive skin, providing a safe and enjoyable cosmetic experience. O’Donoghue, M. N. (2000)

Eyeliners

Eyeliners define the eyes and make them stand out, enhancing their shape and color. They can also mimic a thick fringe of eyelashes. Typically, four eyeliners are available: gel, pencil, liquid, and felt-tip.

Modern eyeliners and eye cosmetics are highly regulated and relatively safe to use. However, makeup products should not interact with meibum, which can aggravate dry eye symptoms. (Hunter, M, et al., et al., 2015)

Meibum is the oily substance produced by the meibomian glands in the eyelids that coats the eye’s surface and helps keep tears from evaporating. Anti-aging creams around the eyes can negatively affect the meibomian gland function, contributing to dry eye symptoms. (Ng, A., et al., 2016)

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Perfumes from the Bible

Agarwood

Agarwood, known as oud, is usually a base note in modern perfumes. It is strong and complex. The essence is also used as a middle note in select scents like French Essence Oud Men Luxury Perfume and as a top note with citrus, floral, or fruity scents in perfumes such as Chopard Collection Agar Royal Eau de Parfum.

Perfumes may include other notes besides agarwood, such as citrus, floral, or fruity scents. For example, the Chopard Collection Agar Royal Eau De Parfum has top notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, and jasmine.

Agarwood is a symbol of heritage and culture in East Asia. In the Middle East, it is used in religious traditions and ceremonies. However, it is expensive and potent. Many brands use an alternate chemical scent, ‘accord of oud.’

Agarwood perfume can be extracted from eight species belonging to the Aquilaria genus. The four principal species are Aquilaria sinensis, Aquilaria malaccensis, Aquilaria agallocha, and Aquilaria crassna.

The Bible mentions aloes in its verses. My research indicates that this refers to agarwood imported into the Middle East. Here is a verse that mentions the use of this incense in that region-

“How beautiful are your tents, Jacob, your dwelling places, Israel! Like valleys they spread out, like gardens beside a river, like aloes planted by the Lord, like cedars beside the waters” (Numbers 24:5–6).

In ancient times, agarwood was popular in Rome, Greece, Arabia, Persia, Egypt, India, and China. It was used in embalming (e.g., John 19:39 40), and such use continues in some Middle Eastern areas, such as Yemen.

The Hadiths describe it as a treatment for throat-related ailments, as in the following text: Umm Qais, daughter of Mihsan, the sister of ‘Ukasha b. Mihsan said: I visited Allah’s Messenger along with my son, who had not, by that time, been weaned, and he urinated over his (clothes). He ordered water to be brought and sprinkled (it) over them. She (further) said: I visited him (Allah’s Apostle) along with my son, and I had squeezed the swelling in the uvula, whereupon he said: Why do you afflict your children by compressing like this? Use this Indian aloeswood, for it contains seven types of remedies, one among them being a remedy for pleurisy. It is applied through the nose for a swelling of the uvula and poured into the side of the mouth for pleurisy. (Book 26 of Sahih Muslim, #5487)

Today, the Middle East is the largest consumer of agarwood products. The oil is a principal ingredient in 400 fragrances. Oudh wood chips are used in rosary beads, necklaces, incense, powders, and green tea. Incense is used to perfume clothes before prayer, and wood chips are burned to welcome and honor guests.

In Japan, the ancient application of agarwood chips for relaxation, meditation, and physical wellness is common in the Kou-Dou incense ceremony.

Agarwood is a resin. Trees older than 60 years are best for extracting resin. Dark wood without white streaks indicates the presence of resin, which is produced when a fungus infects the heartwood. These fungi include Aspergillus spp., Botryodyplodia spp., Diplodia spp., Fusarium spp., Penicillium spp., and Pythium spp.

As the wood rots, it produces a resin. This process can take centuries, making agarwood resin a scarce resource. Furthermore, the fungi infect only seven percent of the trees in nature. Thus, the use of agarwood as timber is limited. Artificial inoculation of agarwood trees in plantations is also done.

However, resin extraction requires the tree to be logged. The International Union for Conservation of Nature classified it as vulnerable, and the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora placed it in Appendix II. Trade in Appendix II species is constrained to protect their numbers, which are so depleted that they are likely to go extinct.

The demand for this resin is high in Middle Eastern countries where oud incense is revered. This makes perfumes containing agarwood expensive.

Agarwood contains many bioactive compounds used in traditional medicine (Hashim, Y Z H Y., et al., 2016). Some studies indicate that agarwood aroma can have stress-reducing properties. (Naziz, P S. et al., 2019). More research is required to validate these indicative properties.

You will find much more in Holy Beauty on skincare, perfumes, and MedSpa procedures.

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