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Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food by Fuchsia Dunlop
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“Appetite for food and sex is human nature, shi se xing ye,' as the philosopher Gaozi said. Or, as the popular saying derived from the Book of Rites puts it: 'Eat, drink, man, woman' (yin shi nan nü). We are all animals, blessed with tongues, stomachs and sexual desires, in need of comfort and affection.”
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food
“Trying to categorize Chinese regional cuisines makes me dizzy. You can travel and travel and travel around China and taste new foods every single day, which is pretty much what I have been doing for the last thirty years. And after all this time, I still find myself in the same state of wonder and bewilderment. Chinese cuisine is like a fractal pattern that becomes more and more intricate the more closely you examine it, to a seemingly infinite degree. The more I know, the less I feel I know. When it comes to Chinese food, I see myself increasingly as a small insect scaling a great mountain of human ingenuity.”
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food
“A successful dish, as my cooking school teachers always used to say, must hit all the targets of se, xiang, wei, xing – colour, fragrance, flavour and form. It should first delight the eyes with its beauty, then the nose with its scent, the tongue with its tastes and the palate with its material qualities. Kougan – literally 'mouthfeel' – is an essential part of the enjoyment of eating, which is an all-embracing sensory experience.”
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food
“A Chinese chef can look at an initially unattractive item like a jellyfish and ask: what can I do with this? What are its downsides and what are its potential assets? Clearly, it is colourless, almost invisible and, aside from an edge of unattractive fishiness, virtually without flavour. But what does it have going for it? Perhaps its brisk, slippery mouthfeel – something anyone Chinese would enjoy. The question then becomes: how can I compensate for its deficiencies and make the most of its assets? With jellyfish, the answer usually is to clean it thoroughly, dispelling any hint of unpleasant fishiness, preserve its vibrant texture, and prepare it with accompanying ingredients that provide what it lacks: salt and sesame oil or vinegar for flavour, slivered cucumber or spring onions, perhaps, for colour. And lo – something overlooked by every other food culture in the world becomes a delectable salad. The same dispassionate, analytical approach can be applied to anything.”
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food
“In cooking as with love, it's not easy to ensure that both ingredients reach their climaxes of perfection simultaneously.”
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food