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National Dish: Around the World in Search of Food, History, and the Meaning of Home National Dish: Around the World in Search of Food, History, and the Meaning of Home by Anya von Bremzen
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“Even, sometimes, top-down fiat: see the strange case of pad Thai, a Chinese-origin noodle dish (like ramen) that got “Thaified” with tamarind and palm sugar and decreed the national street food by the 1930s dictator Phibun—part of his campaign that included renaming Siam as Thailand, banning minority languages, and pushing Chinese vendors off the streets.”
Anya von Bremzen, National Dish: Around the World in Search of Food, History, and the Meaning of Home