Under the Wave at Waimea Quotes

“noticed except for the ache in my knees some days. And growing old is also becoming a stranger, with a different and unrecognizable face, withering to insignificance, ceasing to matter. Nothing more will happen to me. So soon, so soon”
― Paul Theroux, Under the Wave at Waimea

“Days you spend on the water are not deducted from your life,” he said, and laughed. “Surfing keeps you from growing old.”
― Paul Theroux, Under the Wave at Waimea: An Atmospheric Literary Novel of Surfing, Mortality, and Redemption in Hawaii

“Here’s the secret,” he said. “I don’t want more than I have—therefore I have everything. It’s the economy of enough.”
― Paul Theroux, Under the Wave at Waimea: An Atmospheric Literary Novel of Surfing, Mortality, and Redemption in Hawaii