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Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair by Chas Smith
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“Nobody dreams of becoming a surf journalist. I fantasized about being a marine biologist when I was eight years old, before it became clear to everyone, including me, that I was not mentally equipped to deal with observable facts and shit.”
― Chas Smith, Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair

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