Training for Climbing Quotes

“Aim for a rating of perceived exertion of 8 out of 10”
― Eric Horst, Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

“incorporates highly specific exercises that target the limiting constraints—most commonly, finger flexor strength and endurance, limit strength and power in the pulling muscles, and the ability to create core stiffness.”
― Eric Horst, Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

“For example, try doing a complete traverse using only two fingers (the index and middle fingers, for example, or middle and ring fingers) of each hand. This drill forces you to maximize the weighting of your feet (a good thing); it’s also an excellent way to increase your finger strength.”
― Eric Horst, Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

“Another important principle states that learning new skills is difficult in states of fatigue, stress, fear, and urgency, whereas a fresh, relaxed, and confident approach yields rapid acquisition of new skills.”
― Eric Horst, Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance

“Knowing the end of the time trial was near, the brain reassessed its estimates of energy reserves and afferent signals from the muscles and heart, and determined that it could allow a higher work output during the final minute of the time trial”
― Eric Horst, Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance