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Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli by Ted Merwin
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“The waiter was a kind of surrogate uncle or grandfather for the duration of the meal; he paradoxically made you feel at home by treating you with undisguised contempt.”
Ted Merwin, Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli
“But because delicatessens are oriented around the consumption of red meat, the iconic Jewish eatery did take on a manly vibe, one that was exploited, as we shall see, by vaudeville routines, films, and TV shows about Jewish men using the delicatessen to shore up their precarious sense of masculinity. The food writer Arthur Schwartz has pointed out that, in Yiddish, the word for “overstuffed” is ongeshtupped; the meat is crammed between the bread in a crude, sensual way that recalls the act of copulation.27 The delicatessen, after all, is a space of carnality, of the pleasures of the “flesh”—the word for meat in Yiddish is fleysh.”
Ted Merwin, Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli
“There could be no picture making,” the film director Orson Welles flatly declared, “without pastrami.”
Ted Merwin, Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli
“After Henry Morgenthau Jr., a Jewish candidate, lost his 1962 bid to unseat Governor Nelson Rockefeller, a Baptist who frequently campaigned for the Jewish vote in kosher delicatessens, Morgenthau ran into the African American civil rights activist Bayard Rustin on a corner. Rustin was eating a knish. Morgenthau asked him what he was eating. Rustin replied, “I’m eating the reason that you’re not governor.”30 And George McGovern became the butt of ridicule when, during the 1972 presidential campaign, he ordered a glass of milk to accompany his chopped-chicken-liver sandwich at a kosher delicatessen in New York’s garment district.31”
Ted Merwin, Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli