West of Jesus Quotes

“It was even odds that the thing I was the most afraid of didn't actually exist at all.”
― Steven Kotler, West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief

“Life is our struggle between the desire for separation and our desire for union. But to ride a wave you have to completely forget yourself; you have to be absorbed in the moment, or you'll fall off. So every wave is about union, it's a momentary connection with something far beyond yourself, and that doesn't happen very often. Surfing may be the easiest way to access this union; surfing is like a heroin injection of union.”
― Steven Kotler, West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief

“Life is our struggle between the desire for separation and our desire for union. But to ride a wave you have to completely forget yourself; you have to be absorbed in the moment, or you'll fall off. So every wave is about union, it's a momentary connection with something far beyond yourself, and that doesn't”
― Steven Kotler, West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief