Pipe Dreams Quotes

“Hossegor.”
― Kelly Slater, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey

“of Kelly Slater and the Slater Family Wall of Shame.”
― Kelly Slater, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey

“out. Civil Defense was riding along the streets warning people that the waves would be building rapidly, but Todd turned to his buddies Cody”
― Kelly Slater, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey

“and win the game. Each time we played, I was losing bad but ended up winning on my last turn. Playing the game suddenly gave me a new perspective on surfing. I realized focusing on the big picture was holding me back. I had to concentrate on what I was doing every second and keep in mind that as long as there was time on the clock, I still had a chance. I labored through a few heats before coming to the fourth round. My opponent was the brilliant tactician Barton Lynch. I was still struggling with the mental block I had when competing against Barton, but it was all about to change. At Reunion, the waves were easily double overhead. My objective was to focus on the moment, but at the moment I was losing. It was a long paddle back to the lineup, and I started paying attention to every stroke I took, every breath, and every movement. The title chase became secondary to the here and now. I broke everything down into baby steps—put one arm in front of the other to paddle and didn’t think about anything else. I caught a wave just before the buzzer, knowing I needed a strong ride. Rather than tightening up, I felt completely free.”
― Kelly Slater, Pipe Dreams: A Surfer's Journey