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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

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Dan said: " This is a memoir written by a very articulate surfer who also happens to be a writer for the New Yorker. He describes his adventures in and out of the water over the years. It's not as easy as it might look from the shore. Hard work goes into it. He ...more "

Sep 04, 2016 02:13PM · see review