ThDogs > ThDogs's Quotes

“In gundog heelwork, you won't score points for any trotting or fanciness. In fact, People would probably laugh! Meanwhile, gundogs — especially retrievers — must maintain heel position not for minutes, but for hours. Often all day.

Gundog heelwork is comparatively low energy. (Because we want the dog to conserve energy for hunting and retrieving.) And the concept of bursting-with-energy heelwork would be a bit risky to most gundog trainers: It hints at a lack of It hints at a lack of steadiness — a heinous crime. Instead, gundog trainers would rather see a lot of self-restraint at heel.”
― Jo Laurens, Force-Free Gundog Training: The Fundamentals for Success

“So, if you are in a country whose traditional training methods involve training like this, you will need to question and think carefully about the methods you may encounter at your local training organisations or chapters — or sessions
with 'pros'. You may already have decided not to go along with the punitive methods which occur when the dog is force-fetched or broke, maybe leaving the classes at that point. But you might not have realised that you also need question the approach which precedes this — allowing the young dog to chase game, to run far and wide and-out of contact with you, to become ever more independent. Keep in mind that all those other dogs you see around you at training seminars, will be broke at some point and forced to comply with their handlers. Yours will not be. Your ability to retain control over your dog will rely on natural biddability; desire to please, engagement, gradually increased distractions', successful prevention, the strength of your relationship, and a history of positive reinforcement.

Make your training choices with this awareness in mind. Because you may need to make very different choices to a traditional handler from the start — even before the use of aversives has entered the picture — and perhaps to model your training more on the approach which is taken in countries where e-collars are not routinely used.”
― Jo Laurens, Force-Free Gundog Training: The Fundamentals for Success

“ON NOT REINVENTING THE 'OTHER DOG SPORTS' WHEEL
Most people compartmentalise dog sports. Instead, I would encourage you to think of (excellent training', generally — regardless of the sport involved. You never know when a skill or a behaviour you have learnt in application to another
sport, could help you in gundog training. And force-free gundog training needs this cross-fertilisation.
Other dog sports are light years ahead of gundog training when it comes to having developed effective force-free training solutions. Rather than reinventing the wheel (again), it makes sense to learn as much as possible from top
force-free trainers in other dog sports.”
― Jo Laurens, Force-Free Gundog Training: The Fundamentals for Success

“As trainers, we regularly work with food as reinforcement for desired behavior, so it truly feels strange not to use some sort of edible reward or feeding toy during training. I have found, however, that straight desensitization is incredibly powerful in separation anxiety cases. Time and time again, I have seen dogs realize success through the process of systematic desensitization. I urge you not to get stuck or create a false sense of security, as so many trainers and guardians do, by providing “comfort” food. Perhaps if we more accurately called it “distraction” food, we would rely on it less.”
― Malena Demartini-Price

“The people we surround ourselves with either raise or lower our standards. They either help us to become the best version of ourselves or encourage us to become lesser versions of ourselves. We become like our friends. No man becomes great on his own. No woman becomes great on her own. The people around them help to make them great.

We all need people in our lives who raise our standards, remind us of our essential purpose, and challenge us to become the best version of ourselves.”
― Matthew Kelly, The Rhythm of Life: Living Every Day with Passion and Purpose

“If you have a dog who—at least some amount of the time—has to walk on the field leash, you should absolutely make sure that he is fitted with a harness. In general, using a harness instead of a collar is preferable, but if your dog is on a long leash, it is vital. The danger of injury that a dog is exposed to is extremely high when he reaches the end of a leash with fifteen, thirty, or more feet. The entire pressure of the jerk he receives when he hits the end of the line is distributed across the cervical spine, larynx, thyroid, and trachea. You can compare this to the impact of crashing into another car at about 35 mph. Remember: we humans put the seat belt across our chests and don’t wrap it around our necks—and for a good reason. In my opinion, wearing a harness is always more sensible than wearing a collar—in field leash training it is indispensable!”
― Clarissa Von Reinhardt, Chase!: Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts

“Distractions include things such as other dogs or people, or even just a different location filled with different sights, sounds, and smells. Only after your dog has completely learned an exercise in a safe environment do you begin to gradually increase the level of distractions.

Don’t expect too much at once. Don’t expect the high school diploma after the first class in elementary school. You have to learn to be a good teacher—and that means that you gradually raise the level of difficulty of the tasks so that your dog makes the least number of mistakes possible and can go from one small success to the other.”
― Clarissa Von Reinhardt, Chase!: Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts

“If you are out walking with your dog and you see anything he might take to be prey, it is important for you to stay calm and not become tense. If whenever you spot a deer or jogger, you startle or immediately pull the leash back, you will give your dog a signal that prey might be nearby.”
― Clarissa Von Reinhardt, Chase!: Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts

“In the first place you must secure his affection and entire confidence . This will be the first lesson, and nothing more should be attempted until you have completely won his heart and taught him to place the utmost confidence in you . At this tender age his mind is easily impressed , and will long retain the ideas then formed and it will take but a few days to teach him to love you with all his heart .”
― Stephen Tillinghast Hammond, Practical Dog Training: Or, Training vs. Breaking

“Do not fail to abundantly caress him and speak kindly words, and never under any circumstances, no matter what the provocation, allow yourself to scold or strike him, as this is entirely at variance with our system, and is sure to result in the defeat of our plans.

Should he jump upon you with his dirty feet, or tear your clothes with his sharp teeth, do not get angry and cuff him, but gently yet firmly place him upon the ground or unclasp his jaws from your garments, consoling yourself with the thought that in a short time you will have him so well in hand that he will know better than to commit these faults.”
― Stephen Tillinghast Hammond, Practical Dog Training: Or, Training vs. Breaking

“You should be in perfect sympathy with him and humor all his whims and notions, and endeavor to teach him that you truly love him. In a short time you will find that this love will be turned tenfold, and that he is ever anxiously watching for your coming, and never so happy as when in your presence and enjoying your caresses.”
― Stephen Tillinghast Hammond, Practical Dog Training: Or, Training vs. Breaking

“No apology for keeping a mongrel is necessary. He is a good dog and a fair dog. Can more be said? He ought not to be maligned. I have known many a loveable mongrel. If he is kept clean, well housed, properly fed, and is of decent habit, he may be as true a companion as an aristocratic champion.”
― Robert Leighton, The new Book of the Dog: A Comprehensive Natural History of British Dogs and Their Foreign Relatives, With Chapters on law, Breeding, Kennel Management, and Veterinary Treatment: 1

“Start by “charging” your “Come” cue. This will be a word that will always mean to your dog: “Absolutely wonderful stuff is about to happen and you better get over here fast or you’re going to miss out!” Say “Come!” in a loud, cheerful voice and feed your dog a very high-value treat - chicken, steak, whatever he thinks is totally wonderful. Repeat many times, until your dog’s eyes light up when he hears the cue. Remember, he doesn’t have to “come” for this part - he’s just hanging out with you, eating treats.”
― Pat Miller, Positive Dog Training: The Fun and Rewarding Way to Train Your Dog

“You can deliberately work with him, teaching him (learning) to handle potentially challenging circumstances at this opportune time in his life and development (self). The goal is to get one up on Mother Nature, not wait for instincts to kick in.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“This critical period gives us the largest window you will ever have in your dog's life to use learning to compete with the less flexible influences of genetics and the unpredictable and
complex nature of the environment, An ounce of prevention, as they say, is worth a pound of cure.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“The treat you gave your dog this morning for doing his little dance in the kitchen had good associations for him as he gobbled it up. That same treat caused him to run away from you when you offered it later to try to lure him into the bathtub. He's no fool. He can see the towel and shampoo bottle in your other hand and he knows what that means. Suddenly that chicken jerky you are holding reeks of a mean trick. The circumstances around a stimulus changed, so the meaning of that stimulus in the moment changed for him as well.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“The imbalance between genetics and a modern environment creates friction and ripple effects for behavioral health.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“The entire point of ritualized communication, signalling, and threatening behavior in nature is to avoid actual conflicts and altercations. To assume that warnings are just an indication of intent to harm is backward.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“You already love your dog (or will soon if you are thinking about taking him home). Now I would like you to meet your dog. As best you can. Halfway. Equipped with the kind of sensible expectations and appropriate measures that may make life easier for both of you.”
― Kim Brophey, Meet Your Dog: The Game-Changing Guide to Understanding Your Dog's Behavior

“Humans have not changed the dog's way of behaving to any significant degree compared with the changes we have made to its physical structure.”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“We all have great expectations of how our dogs should behave! But when our dogs develop a 'problem', do we ever ask ourselves if they are really just showing a part of normal dog behaviour which has only become a problem because the dog has to fit into our lifestyle? After all, if we didn't have all the trappings of modern civilisation like cars, houses, furniture, washing, gardens and other domesticated animals, our dogs couldn't chase cars, urinate in the house, pull washing off the line, dig holes and uproot our favourite plants or chase the neighbour's cat!

So what can we do about it? Obviously, if we choose to share our life with one or more dogs, then the dogs' behaviour must be acceptable to us, our friends, neighbours and veterinarian. But this shouldn't be a one-way affair. It's not just up to the dog to modify its actions so that we can live together successfully, it is up to us to find out as much as we can about natural dog behaviour so that we can understand why our dog acts in certain ways. We will then be in a better position to modify our own behaviour and perhaps our surroundings, so that our dog finds it easier to live with us! After all, our dog probably thinks we are a problem when we don't take it for a walk. forget to feed it or leave it alone”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“Every problem that we address in this book comes with a clear message. Dog problems are caused by humans! We create an unnatural environment for dogs and we often have little understanding of their needs. Our expectations are frequently unrealistic!”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“The secret to modifying the problem is to produce an alternative behaviour which we find acceptable, and which the dog prefers to do.”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“When knowledge runs out, aggression hastens in”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“At no time should the lead be used as a forceful training aid. It should only be used to ensure your dog's safety or to comply with local or governmental regulations.”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“The lead is used as a safety precaution for your dog, not as a training aid”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“Changing the environment can change the behaviour.”
― David Weston, Dog Problems: The Gentle Modern Cure

“Guardians may feel panicked themselves when faced with the idea of working on separation anxiety without using food. So start small. Beginning with small increments of alone time, without a food toy, helps get the dog over the initial hump of not having a distraction; it also can yield the most lasting results. Just know that when I say small, I mean tiny. We can start with even 1 second — essentially, the guardian leaving and immediately returning — and create a series of repetitions of this activity. This repetition will lead to the dog eventually getting bored with all the brief comings and goings. Once bored, those 1-second absences can stretch to 2- or even 5-second absences, and the repetitions can proceed at the increased duration.”
― Malena Demartini-Price

“Many dogs with separation anxiety won’t eat when left alone — a phenomenon commonly referred to as “alone-time anorexia” — although that’s not what I’m most concerned about here. Even some separation anxiety dogs learn to love their interactive feeding toy, and the anticipation of getting it when left alone can be of value by easing the transition. Many separation anxiety dogs, however, quickly recognize the toy as just another cue for a scary absence and learn to dislike the appearance of the food item. For these dogs, one might call it “discomfort” food.”
― Malena Demartini-Price

“...it is a fact that we keep our dogs in captivity and we are responsible for the welfare of our dogs.”
― Anne Lill Kvam, A Dog's Fabulous Sense of Smell: Step by Step Treat Search Tracking