“There’s an unspoken rule to our preserving: you shouldn’t have paid for the main ingredient. It should be part of a glut, otherwise unwanted or impossible to use, or should be foraged from the wild, where it would only decay without your intervention. You don’t have to look back many generations to see how this was an essential supplement to scarce fresh produce in winter months, although today it’s perhaps more of an affectation, an aspect of my personal culture that I’m reluctant to concede.”