I was reminded, in that moment, yet again, that Trumps had a gay vibe—I knew that the chef was gay, the big investors were gay, the designer of the space was gay, all or most of the waiters were gay, even the location was gay: smack in the middle of what was known as Boystown. The entire aesthetic had an undercurrent of fuck you to the straight status quo and I suddenly felt slightly uncomfortable being there at the center of it. Terry ordered a couple of appetizers: the grape-and-Brie quesadilla that the restaurant was famous for and the salmon tartar, which was served exactly nowhere yet in
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