In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto
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vitamins enjoyed a vogue among the middle class, a group not notably afflicted by beriberi or scurvy.
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First, notice that the stark message to “eat less” of a particular food—in this case meat—had been deep-sixed; don’t look for it ever again in any official U.S. government dietary pronouncement.
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In form this is a quasireligious idea, suggesting the visible world is
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not the one that really matters, which implies the need for a priesthood.
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with the goal of growing bigger, and therefore (it was assumed) healthier, people. (A high priority for Western governments fighting imperial wars.)