Over the Edge of the World: Magellan's Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe

by Laurence Bergreen

Under the traditional system, spices, along with damasks, diamonds, opiates, pearls, and other goods from Asia, reached Europe by slow, costly, and indirect routes over land and sea, across China and the Indian Ocean, through the Middle East and Persian Gulf. Merchants received them in Europe, usually in Italy or the south of France, and shipped them overland to their final destination. Along the way, spices went through as many as twelve different hands, and every time they did, their prices shot up. Spices were the ultimate cash crop.

The bilgewater around the pumps was also the most noxious to be found anywhere on the ship, and sailors retched from the stench. Despite the various hardships involved with operating the pumps, they were an absolute necessity at sea; without them, ships slowly took on water till they sank, and operating them exhausted teams of able-bodied seamen. It was not unheard-of for mariners to collapse and die during the ordeal of working the pump to save a ship.

Maintaining the ampolletas was simple enough—the pages turned them over every half hour, night and day—but the task was critical. Aboard a swaying ship, the ampolletas were the only reliable timepiece, and the captain depended on them for dead reckoning and changing the watches. A ship without a functioning ampolleta was effectively disabled.

They might carry a fistful of hardtack or salted fish, and they almost certainly regretted their chronic lack of sleep because night aboard ship was as noisy as day; the ocean never slept, and neither did they.

Defecating was even more difficult, calling for a precarious balancing act as a sailor eased himself over the rail and lowered himself onto a crude seat suspended high above the waves. There were two such seats, fore and aft, known as jardines, a name ironically suggesting flowers. After he lowered his breeches and eased himself into the seat, the sailor had to void himself in full view of anyone who cared to watch—privacy did not exist aboard these ships—and if the sea happened to be rough, the frigid spray splattered his exposed bottom. (More than one sailor lost his life when he plunged from the jardines to the ocean.) When he was done, he wiped himself with a length of pitch-covered rope, and then climbed back on deck, where he no doubt breathed a sigh of relief.

The strait’s thick vegetation gave the air an intoxicating fragrance and buoyancy. The breezes were scented with a damp mossy odor lightened by the scent of wildflowers, freshened by the cool glaciers, and faintly tangy with the salt from the sea. Like everything else in this region, the very air was alive with mystery and promise. The strait seemed to be a giant natural monastery in which the crew sought refuge, a place of quiet contemplation of the paradoxes of nature on a scale capable of inducing profound humility.

Magellan’s skill in negotiating the entire length of the strait is acknowledged as the single greatest feat in the history of maritime exploration.

The scale of the Pacific Ocean was past imagining to Magellan. It encompasses one-third of the earth’s surface, covers twice the area of the Atlantic Ocean, and contains more than twice as much water volume. It extends over a greater area than all the dry land on the planet, more than sixty-three million square miles. Lost in this immensity are twenty-five thousand islands, and concealed beneath its waters lurks the lowest point on earth, the Mariana Trench, buried in inky blackness thirty-six thousand feet beneath the shimmering surface.

Without realizing it, Pigafetta had just recorded an observation of great consequence. These “clouds” are in fact two irregular dwarf galaxies orbiting our own galaxy and containing billions of stars enveloped in a gaseous blanket; they are known today as the Magellanic Clouds. The larger one, Nubecula Major, is about 150,000 light-years away, the smaller, Nubecula Minor, even farther, about 200,000 light-years. To the naked eye, they resemble pieces of the Milky Way torn off and flung across the heavens. Until 1994, they were considered the galaxies nearest to ours. The larger of the two covers an area in the night sky about two hundred times greater than that covered by the moon, while the smaller covers an area fifty times larger.

Since leaving the western mouth of the strait, Magellan had traveled more than seven thousand miles without interruption: the longest ocean voyage recorded until that time.

Had Magellan tarried among the Chamorros, he might have learned valuable lessons about navigating across the Pacific. Like other island tribes, the Chamorros had techniques for identifying distant landmasses. They were adept at reading the ocean swells to maintain a course; they could distinguish between distracting swells raised by winds in the area and the widely spaced, regular swells useful for orienting a ship. The swells contained other clues to the whereabouts of remote islands, because they tended to bounce off islands or even to curve around them. By studying the patterns of the swells, an experienced navigator could make educated guesses about the distances and locations of various islands.

Chinese exploration of the Philippines reached its commercial peak during the years 1405 to 1433, when the Treasure Fleet ruled the South Pacific and the Indian Ocean. Its immense ships ranged as far as the east coast of Africa to collect precious items and tributes for the emperor. They were eight or nine times longer than Columbus’s ships and five or six times longer than any in Magellan’s armada. For sheer size, the Treasure Fleet was unrivaled until the zenith of the British navy in the nineteenth century. Despite its importance and unique character, the Treasure Fleet is little known in the West, even today. It was the creation, in many respects, of one man whose accomplishments rivaled and in some ways surpassed the more celebrated exploits of Columbus and Magellan: Cheng Ho.

The remarkable journey turned out to be the Treasure Fleet’s last adventure; Cheng Ho, who inspired the enterprise, died on the voyage home. The emperor mothballed the Treasure Fleet, shut down the Nanking shipyards, and destroyed records documenting its accomplishments. Chinese science and technology, especially regarding exploration, fell into decline. By 1500, an imperial edict made it a capital offense for a ship with more than two masts to put to sea; in 1525, officials set about destroying the larger ships of the Treasure Fleet.

Magellan had acquired Enrique ten years earlier in Malacca, where he was baptized, and he had followed his master ever since across Africa and Europe. If Enrique had originally come from these islands, been captured as a boy by slave raiders from Sumatra, and sold to Magellan at a slave mart in Malacca, the chain of circumstances would account for his understanding the local language. But beyond that, it meant that Magellan’s servant was, in fact, the first person to circle the world and return home.

the improvement came too late for Magellan’s gunners to take advantage of it. If his expedition had left only a year later, he would have carried more advanced guns with him, and the outcome of his voyage might have been very different.

As far as Magellan was concerned, the combination of firepower and armor gave the armada unequaled power over the people of the islands, a belief that would cost him dearly.

“The males, large and small, have their penis pierced from one side to the other near the head, with a gold or tin bolt as large as a goose quill,” Pigafetta observed, scarcely believing his eyes. “In both ends of the same bolt, some have what resembles a spur, with points upon the ends; others are like the head of a cart nail. I very often asked many, both old and young, to see their penis, because I could not credit it.” Fascinated by the devices, Pigafetta studied them closely. “In the middle of the bolt is a hole, through which they urinate. The bolt and spurs always hold firm.”

One of the most difficult things for the Europeans to understand was that palang was intended to enhance female pleasure by stimulating a variety of sensations in the vagina. Intercourse using palang lasted as long as a day, or even more, as the two lovers remained locked in an embrace of passion.

To be a Basque meant, and still means, to be a historical anomaly. The Basques are the oldest ethnic group of Europe, a breed apart ever since Paleolithic times. In their province in northern Spain, next to the French border, the Basques speak a distinct language, actually, eight dialects of a distinct language. No direct link between the Basque tongue and another language has been identified.

The Bajau developed a brisk trade in a Chinese delicacy, trepang, or sea cucumber. This leathery echinoderm, normally a few inches in length, grew to extraordinary dimensions in the area, occasionally as long as three feet. It was considered an aphrodisiac, the ginseng of the sea.

Along the way, they passed a cape inhabited by cannibals, and the crew studied these fabled creatures with rapt attention. The cannibals were every bit as frightening as their reputation: “shaggy men who are exceedingly great fighters and archers. They use swords one palmo in length and eat only raw human hearts with the juice of oranges and lemons.” The crew members naturally kept their distance, and listened closely to their captured guide’s account of the tribe as if they were tourists on safari. In all likelihood, they had encountered members of the Manobos tribe, who did on occasion practice a ritual cannibalism in which they devoured the heart or the liver of their enemies. But no European hearts were consumed that day.

And on a neighboring island, Gilolo, the situation was even more extreme. Two kings shared the island; one had 600 children, the other 525.

Insane

Pigafetta relished telling the tales he heard of Java, beginning with its funeral rites. “When one of the chief men of Java dies, his body is burned,” he wrote. “His principal wife adorns herself with garlands of flowers and has herself carried on a chair through the entire village by three or four men. Smiling and consoling her relatives who are weeping, she says, ‘Do not weep, for I am going to sup with my dear husband this evening and to sleep with him this night.’ Then she is carried to the fire, where her husband is being burned. Turning toward her relatives, and again consoling them, she throws herself into the fire, where her husband is being burned. If she did not do that, she would not be considered an honorable woman or a true wife to her dead husband.”

Duarte Barbosa, in his account of the region, had described Javanese palang in excruciating detail. “They are very voluptuous,” he wrote of the inhabitants, “and have certain round hawk’s bells sewn and fastened in the head of their penis between the flesh and the skin in order to make them larger. Some have three, some five, and others seven. Some are made of gold and silver and others of brass, and they tinkle as the men walk. The custom is considered quite the proper thing. The women delight greatly in the bells, and do not like men who go without them. The most honored men are those who have the most and largest ones.”

“When the young men of Java are in love with any gentlewoman, they fasten certain little bells between their penis and foreskin. They take a position until their sweetheart hears the sound. The sweetheart descends immediately, and they take their pleasure; always with those little bells, for their women take great pleasure in hearing those bells ring from the inside of their vagina. Those bells are all covered, and the more they are covered, the louder they sound.”

Not until 1580, fifty-eight years after Victoria returned to Seville, did another explorer, Sir Francis Drake, complete a circumnavigation. His voyage took him through the Strait of Magellan. To accomplish the feat, Drake relied on the knowledge so painfully and heroically acquired by the Captain General and his crew.