At the end of the nineties, we moved from being worried about fat to being worried about sugar again, and then we paid more attention to calories no matter their source, fat or sugar or starch. (One factor in this shift was a 1998 report from a consumer advocacy group, the Centers for Science in the Public Interest, titled “Liquid Candy: How Soft Drinks Are Harming America’s Health,” which drew media attention to how much soda we were drinking.)
