“But you must never forget the final theory, the theory of all theories,” Ben warned near the end of my morning tutorial. “We call it TPITP: The Proof Is in the Pudding.” In other words, when hunting mushrooms you should be prepared to jettison all previous theories and go with whatever seems to be working in this particular place, at this particular time. Mushrooms behave unpredictably, and theories can go only so far in pushing back their mystery.