‘There are certain glaciers that are held to be clearly malign around here,’ says Matt. ‘There’s one that Kulusumi people just won’t go near, because it has a reputation for hostility. If you have to cross near it, you don’t speak, eat or even look at the glacier while making the crossing, because it calves so far below the waterline that it can kill you from beneath without warning. They call this puitsoq, “the ice that comes from below”.’