“Have you ever read the M.F.K. Fisher story that begins, ‘That early spring I met a young servant in northern Burgundy who was almost fanatical about food, like a medieval woman possessed by the devil’?” “No.” “It’s about a waitress who takes such pride in her chef that at one point she says, ‘Any trout is glad, truly glad, to be prepared by Monsieur Paul.’ The food is superb, but as course follows course, Fisher begins to fear for her life.”
