“You ride a wave, you don’t conquer it,” Hamilton says. “The trick to surviving is knowing when you’re out-matched.” In part, he credits his achievements as a surfer to what is for him a humble connection to nature and the realization that he is not just the rider of a wave, but indeed, that a surfer is part of the wave. “There’s no beginning and no end of a wave,” Hamilton says. “Instead there is a sort of timeless aspect to surfing where every wave you’re ever on is part of the same eternal wave. Really good surfers have a connection to the ocean where the great waves simply come to them.
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