Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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Read between December 30, 2016 - July 8, 2017
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life is a comedy to those who think, a tragedy to those who feel.
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The complex ambitions and aversions that brought the poor backpacker seven thousand miles to struggle and suffer from dysentery, heatstroke, or worse in the equatorial jungle—anything to be a “traveler” and not a “tourist”!—were