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Kindle Notes & Highlights
Defeats, humiliations—craven avoidance—burn into memory so much more deeply, at least for me, than their opposites.
the special brand of monomania, antisocial and ill-balanced, that a serious commitment to surfing nearly always brought with it.
Claude Lévi-Strauss’s Tristes Tropiques,
What was consistent was a certain serenity that followed a rigorous session.
The heightened sense of a vast, unknowable design silences the effort to understand.
I was not afraid. I just didn’t want this to end.
