Kitchens of the Great Midwest
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Read between April 12 - April 17, 2025
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Never mind that neither Gustaf, his wife, Elin, nor his children had ever even seen a live whitefish before, much less caught one, pounded it, dried it, soaked it in lye, resoaked it in cold water, or done the careful cooking required to make something that, when perfectly prepared, looked like jellied smog and smelled like boiled aquarium water.
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Theirs was a mixed-race marriage—between a Norwegian and a Dane—and
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went on dates about as often as a vegetarian restaurant opened near an interstate highway,
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ounces. When Lars first held her, his heart melted over her like butter on warm bread, and he would never get it back.
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She was not raised to confront people or defend herself in a confrontation; she was raised to appease, to mollify, to calm, to tuck little monsters in at night, to apologize for things she screwed up without realizing, to forgive, to sweeten, and her bars, her bars did that for the world, they were her I’m Sorry, they were her Like Me, they were her Love Freely Given.
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She suddenly felt sorry for these people, for perverting the food of their childhood, the food of their mothers and grandmothers, and rejecting its unconditional love in favor of what? What? Pat did not understand.