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pools of water still stood in the gutters, with pigeons pecking at the popcorn kernels and bits of tobacco floating on the surface. On my short walk to work, I passed a pinball arcade, a saloon with chest-high wooden swinging doors, and a place where you could dress up like a Civil War soldier to have your picture made. Dante’s was the classiest establishment by far, an elaborate fantasy of a nightclub that featured a two-story pirate ship with a lagoon around it where live

