Already, we’ve toured three separate astonishing churches and been whisked down Via dei Tribunali, where Fabrizio taught us the exacting legal requirements of Neapolitan pizza: that the dough must only be stretched by hand, the mandated temperature for fermentation, the clockwise spreading of crushed tomatoes, approved local sources for cheese. We’ve taken forks and knives to bloody red marinara and basil-flecked margherita with soupy middles, and we’ve stood at windows for pizza folded up with butcher paper, a portafoglio.
