The oppressive mournfulness of these villages is inescapable: it would be impossible to view them as fun specifically. But the simplicity of the walls and towers of Cincşor (Kleinschenk) or Homorod (Hammeroden) seems (to this male anyway) a fulfilment of a most basic child’s fantasy of being able to walk around in a life-sized version of a toy fortress (or of being shrunk to fit inside the toy).
