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Finnegan is an excellent writer, making the mundane powerful. I'm not a surfer and some of his rides sound like hell: all the pounding, thrashing, whitewater, rip currents and walls of water, sinister and foreboding. No thank you!
But overall, my impression is that like most of us, Finnegan is seeking transcendence. And he catches rare glimpses of that when he rides waves.
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But overall, my impression is that like most of us, Finnegan is seeking transcendence. And he catches rare glimpses of that when he rides waves.
...more
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