Does not dessert by any other name still taste as sweet?

I liked this exchange between the New Yorker's Adam Gopnik and El Bulli's Ferran Adria on where dessert is going:

Were we, I asked, on the verge of entirely breaking down the line between sweet and savory?

He looked at me with delighted triumph. "It can't be that an American is asking me that!" he said. "A hamburger with ketchup and Coca-Cola? That's the most intense symbiosis of sweet and savory imaginable. It's your cultural theme."

Good point! If someone served me ice cream in the middle of a meal, I'd be rather surprised. But hand me a Coke, which is, if anything, sweeter, and I don't even blink.

Photo credit: Joshua Lott/Reuters.