Boracay, twenty years later

It's Tuesday and I'm back from Boracay, in the Philippines, where I spent Chinese New Year. The last time I was there was twenty years ago. At the time, the island was still pretty isolated with a small village and a few low-key, thatched-roof huts for the odd tourist who dared to venture there. Running water and electricity were still a luxury. You felt very far away from civilisation, in one of those few places where time stops. And of course the island was stunning, with one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Twenty years later, the beach is still as beautiful as ever – truly amazing. The water is crystal clear, and the coconut trees and the thick vegetation lining the shore make for a fantastic backdrop. However, a small airport has been built in Caticlan, on a nearby island, only ten minutes by boat from Boracay, and this has allowed the island to grow its tourist activity. In the past you had to fly to Kalibo and take a two-hour bus ride to Caticlan; you can still do it these days if you want a cheaper flight. But with an airport nearby, the influx of tourists has grown tremendously. There are now two or three luxury resorts at each end of the island, and at its centre, a string of tourist accommodation, bars and stores has developed. In fact I could hardly believe the number of people on the island! Luckily, they tend to stay near their hotel and the bars, so you can still escape the hustle-bustle. Boracay has lost some of its old charm, but it remains amazingly beautiful. It is cheap, and the Filipinos are as lovely as ever, a smile always crossing their face, eager to welcome visitors. Boracay has even become a kite-surfing mecca, and it hosts a series of competitions each year. The old Boracay is gone, but the new one is not bad. If you want to experience what the island was twenty years ago, there are a million other islands waiting to be discovered in the Philippines. At the moment, El Nido seems to be the place to go. Personally, my next trip will be to Donsol, near Legazpi, to swim with whale sharks…